Cheers Paul. Wouldn't have been able to do this without this video, even the follow-up one about it not spinning. It's all sorted now.Much appreciated.
Thanks so much for posting this. I did ours today, and gave it a thorough clean up as well. It looks and runs as good as it ever has. Took me a couple of hours, but now the boss is cheering. You know what they say - happy wife = happy life. Thanks so much.
Thanks Paul, really appreciate you taking the time to make this vid. So many you tubers waffle on about this and that and waste so much time with unnecessary talk. Your instruction is to the point with all the relevant information, some good tips and no waffle. I just finished putting my machine back together with two brand new bearings, (the old ones were totally destroyed, I shouldn't have run it so long on screeching bearings). No way could I have done it without your video, so again, thanks dude, appreciate the heck out of you right now.
Thank you. I appreciate that. I totally agree with you on the waffle. I watched a video the other day on a Briggs and Stratton motor that was 20mins waffle and 2 mins of real information
What a great video. Thanks Paul. I got deep into disassembly before checking if good ol UA-cam had guidance. You gave me the confidence to carry on without getting grumpy and taking it to the dump!!
Good stuff mate, thanks for sharing. I've had my F&P Washing Machine for over 20 years. I replaced the water pump a year or two ago & this Easter weekend going to have a crack at replacing the bearings. You've made it look pretty straight forward, hopefully all goes well & I get to keep it running for a few more years. Cheers
Thanks for the great instructional video. Very easy to follow going step by step in a clear concise manner. You saved me from calling out a repairman. As with other comments cost about $30 for the bearings and took a couple of hours going slowly following each step. Thanks again :D
You're a top bloke, thanks mate for the effort to make this video. I'm used to seeing the old washing machines with a back cover and had me stumped how to pull this one apart. But you cleared all that up for me.
Hi Paul. Thanks for a great no nonsense, no bull, how to video. I didn't have a clue how to do it but followed your instructions and voila....sounds like a washing machine again, not a train. When I was fitting the new bearing from the inside I used the old bearing on top of the new one to tap it into position as I was worried about damaging the new one, and that worked well. The only thing that went wrong was that the magnets inside the rotor picked up a screw, but fortunately I found that out before doing any damage.Once again thank you very much. Hope to get another 10 years out of the old girl.
Good video. To the point and concise. I tried to shortcut however it was unrewarded. Anyone attempting this for the first time, follow the instructions to the letter. I didn't have the tube to knock the new seal into place so I used the old seal atop the new seal and push it in manually (initially) Then I used a piece of soft timber to strike the old seal, that way, no damage was done to the new seal and seated quite easily. The shaft was quite worn so it will be leaking is the next issue. Hopefully a few years down the track.
Great video, thanks mate. Just changed the bearings and thanks to you it’s all good. Only cost me $30 for the parts and a couple of hours taking it slow following your instructions. Thank you very much.
sorry to be so offtopic but does someone know of a way to log back into an instagram account? I was dumb forgot the login password. I appreciate any help you can offer me!
@Brayden Mustafa Thanks for your reply. I got to the site on google and im waiting for the hacking stuff now. Takes quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Thx mate saved me $700 for a new washer. Whirlpool forums recommended it would cost more to get the repair man out than to buy a new one - doing it myself cost $36 ($30 for washer kit and $6 for Petroleum Jelly). The filth that had accumulated I had to scrape off my arms with a spatula! I recommend popping the washers in the freezer for half an hour and to lightly grease them before insertion.
Nah mate, Whirlpool forums is a common forum that discusses any topic. Whirlpool is or was an ISP and they opened a forum which it still running to this day.
Found this video after same washing machine developed a very noisy spin cycle and very helpful. I did find it easier to lay the washer on its side to work underneath and this avoided removing the outer drum. Upper bearing however required a lot of persuasion from a heavy hammer on a length of timber dowling same diameter as bearing to fully seat. Other comment about putting bearings in freezer beforehand is a good idea. One thing I noticed was the central tubing still had some end clearance after the bearings seemed to be fully seated so tightening the bottom nut caused the bearings to bind. I had to do up this nut just over finger-tight to stop any binding and relied on tightening of the magnet drum onto this nut to hold it firm. This is something to watch out for in case something causes the distance between the seated bearings to be a bit longer than the length of the tube.
Is the machine still working well? I see that you had limited torque available on the nut upon refit. I'm to start this job on my machine this morning. Your short cut sounds inviting.
Great Video helped me a lot, I had issues getting the Bearings to seat right, My fix after some pounding and tearing my hair out, Freeze the Bearings, only left them for 30 minutes, you can do longer, and they slip in with a gentle tap, 3 hours pissing round, 1 hour to complete it after that, PS don't forget to put the drain pump back the right way.
Thanks for the posting mate. It was exactly what I needed to do the bearings on my machine. Had a little grief getting the shaft back in, as it didn't want to go in the full distance. Had to persuade it with a little kinetic energy! But kudo's to you. Couldn't have done it without this video, nor had the confidence to try!
Thanks Paul, about to do my washing machine soon. Wifey is down at the local spare parts warehouse to get the bearing and seal kit for my MW511. Cheers
Thanks for this video, it was very helpful. When I removed the shaft and bearings dark rusty oily liquid poured out, so no wonder it sounded terrible on spin. I found it difficult to seat the top bearing down far enough, and I was afraid of damaging it with the force I was applying. In the end I had to make a wooden rod the same diameter as the bearing outer ring and beat it into place with a large mallet. When I got it back together and tested it I got error 10000011 (131) 'persistent rotor position sensor fault', but having replaced that three times already I knew it was probably just the connector. Pulling that off and cleaning the blue 'salt' off the contacts fixed it. Then when tested it did the initial wash OK, but after draining it would not spin and gave error 00101000 (40) 'drum seating check failed'. Examining it showed that it definitely was seating (inner drum dropping back down freely). I checked the RPS, water sensing hose and refitted the agitator. Then it occurred to me that perhaps it just needed a little more weight in the drum, rather than testing empty. Sure enough I did a 1/2 load of clothes and it worked perfectly. Perhaps there is a little scale on the 'clutch' preventing it locking down with not much mass in it. A lot of white scale came out from inside the bottom of the inner drum when I was cleaning it as Paul recommended.
Thanks heaps for this video. I have completed the replacement of the bearings following you step by step. Broke the earth wire clip but no further hassles. Much appreciated!
Great video. I did the bearings on my 15 year old Fisher and Paykel smartdrive on the weekend. It's doable however I wouldn't say it's for someone with limited technical skills. It took me quite a few hours to do. I had quite a bit of trouble getting the old shaft back through once I put in the new bearings. It took quite a lot of beating with a rubber mallet and piece of wood to get it through. I should have tried sanding it. Using Lanox inox on all screws and bolts when you put back also a great idea. Also when I put in the bearings seal it doesn't sit flush with the top of the bowl but rather quite a bit under the lip, that said it seems to run well so not sure if it's meant to be like that or the new bearings are a different size. That said I got it all back together and I can't believe how quiet the machine is now on the spin cycle. Thanks again for the video as just someone showing all the steps and parts gives you the confidence to take it on however just remember it's not a beginner's job.
No it's certainly not the easiest of jobs. The shaft should be easily pushed back in by hand. If the shaft is difficult to get back in, means one of the bearings is sitting on a slight angle but it should be ok. Some seals can sit about 2-3mm below the lip so this is normal. Well done for giving it a go and congratulations for successful finish.
I've just done this on a 14 year old unit. I spent a couple of hours cleaning all the drums and parts - it was filthy in there. Also spent a hour or two wire brushing the inside of the case and re-spraying any rust areas with zinc spray. Hopefully it'll now give me a pile more years of operation.
Kerry Mudgee Thank you for the very detailed and informative video. I shall now embark on remedying a water leak ( possibly the seal) and replace the bearings to complete the job. I now approach the job with much greater confidence thanks to your guidance
95 percent of water leaks come from the pump or a cracked drain hose, not the seal. I would check for that first. Unless your bearings are making a horrendous noise on spin then yes your seal is probably the culprit
thanks so much for this it was really helpful. i had a lot more trouble getting the bearings out (took a lot of beating) and getting the inside one in, but all back together and just have to test.
Great video, and with one hand. Just a tip - before you try to take the bowls apart, remove the water pump from underneath. It's a very simple job, just disconnect the two leads (power and earth) and trip the plastic latch holding it in place, twist and remove. Why? The vanes on the pump motor are easily broken (I know!)
P.S. Would pay to regrease while out. Very simple. Unscrew the agitator, pop of the rubber seal, dry, regrease (pref with water pump grease), reassemble. Done.
I found this video really helpful followed it to the end and now have a perfectly good machine machine cant believe there was so much gunk build up everywhere had to use a geri . I bought the bearing kit for $38 I can only imagine how much the repair would of been call someone out . Thanks heaps for the video :)
Your video encouraged me to have a go at correcting a very noisy spinning cycle. Took a bit longer than the video but the GW501 is all good now. One of the bearings was badly worn!
Thank you very much for making this video. This trimmed a lot of time off my repair. Would like to add removed pump from drum when upside down and rinse out the pump cavity. 2 washes and no water under our washer.
Saved me mate. Great video. Thanks so much. Got is all back together and it goes rough all the cycles, drains but then fails to spin. It chugs back and forth. I'm thinking it's just tight so will look at it tomorrow.
Yep I got it spinning again real well then but it has gone back to thumping. I may have tightened the bottom nut too much. The bearings are sealed so no need for grease yeah?
That's right you can't grease them any more. And you can't get the nut too tight because of the spacer tube between the bearings. The last time I had your problem it took several hard snacks on the main shaft to get it to work
Good tutorial. I am actually trying to fix the drain hose as it seems to be leaking a little, I guess its the same top down approach to strip down the machine to access the area I think the leak is in...right down by the bowl !
MOST of the leaky drain hoses I've had have been near the top where the pipe comes out of the machine at the back. The water travels down the hose on the inside to the motor which gives a false impression it's leaking down there. But it maybe different it your case. Check and look very closely to the corrogated pipe. Bend the pipe in all directions and look for a small hole. It's usually where it's been rubbing on a wall or similar. OR The other culprit can be a leaky water pump when it's pumping out. The main shaft seal of the pump gets full of dirt and dust and can leak. The pump can be removed and pulled apart by unscrewing the impeller anti clockwise and the big rubber main seal can be lifted off and cleaned. Put some petroleum jelly down the hole when reassembling. This should stop a leaky pump.
@@paulywooly thanks, I followed both lines and coukdn't see much wrong with the drain hose however when I lifted the pump out the seal was very gritty, I suspect some iron or steel filings from when I have been cutting structural steel. A good clean and some jelly and reassembled. Testing looks good so far.
ok my shaft also went thru too far, then i noticed the ridge on the shaft must be on top of the bearing , you must put in both bearings before you slide the shaft back in. or the shaft will be able to move in too far. Also notice you don't have to dissemble everything that far (except to clean) you can just lean the unit back and work from underneath only 2 screws to remove from the top get you full assess to the tub area just use a string to hold the top swung back out of your way you don't even need to unplug the water lines or drain. if shaft goes thru too far it allows the magnets to ride too low and the motor only twitches and wont turn. I also put a little silicone around the outer edge of the seal just for peace of mind. Power washer works great for blowing off the lime if you do dissemble it that far.
At 12:38 you said if "if the shaft is severely damaged" it should be replaced since the seal will fail. How much damage is bad? Did you use emory paper because that shaft was damaged, or is emory a routine part of the usual procedure? Tnx for great vid
I always use Emery paper on all shafts. Just a little buffing up. If the shaft just has even rings around it where the old seal was rubbing then it will be fine. But if the shaft is pitted by corrosion then the shaft needs replacing. See here for what is a pitted shaft, in case you don't know. www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f114/pitted-prop-shaft-repair-52294.html
I believe that my machine is leaking thru the rubber lipseal but not the bearings. I have absolutely no noise coming from the bearings themselves. Can I just replace the lipseal from the tub without removing the bearings? That way I would not have to deal with the plumbing and wiring etc. Thank you.
It's very rare for the seal to be leaking without the bearings being damaged. Most leaks come from the drain pump. If you can put the machine on some wooden blocks and look underneath while it's draining the leak will come from the front right of the machine. Next common thing is, If the drain hose is split, the leak will come from the back right. If the seal is faulty the the leak will come from the motor in the centre. The seal can be slowly prized out around the edges, with a screwdriver.
@@paulywooly Thankyou so much. It's just that the leak only occurs during a wash cycle but not during fill or emptying. I am not complaining though it is an old GW608U that we bought back in 1998 (when they were being made in NZ) not sure about the quality now they are made by Haeir in China. Any opinions about Haier?
@@DM-cp4uk yes my opinion is "Crap" . Keep the machine going as long as you can. I still fix Smartdrive machines from 1993 and they're still going strong
Jeepers, you need a third arm aka a helper to hold the video cam - I'm feeling seasick :) The hint on using a piece of 40mm DWV pipe to seat the seal was very useful though !
@@paulywooly apologies for the harsh comment. The content has some nuggets including getting that seal at the right height, otherwise you get leaks - don't ask how I know LOL.
Thank you once again. We replaced the bearings successfully with your help two years ago and have had to do it again. Is that normal? We’ve done it again but Unfortunately the machine is not working. It’s turning on but there is no water. The tap is turned on. Any ideas?
Maybe the mainshaft was to worn the make a good seal, hence the 2 years. Not sure about the water. You wouldn't have disconnected the water valves ? It it both hot and cold not working? Check rotor position sensor is properly plugged in
Has it had new bearings fitted? Try these videos ua-cam.com/video/-ibZ7CU-hVM/v-deo.htmlsi=CSxiYTgon5bgwk7F ua-cam.com/video/rcypPHAzhCA/v-deo.htmlsi=oCtmOn937CdxU1JI
Good video, although just wondering why you are filming in 240p this far into the future? You using the world's oldest camera perhaps? So New Zealand to do this in bare feet! Thanks.
@@stockwellengineeringhints3527 yes it is a very old video taken with my old HTC cell phone which was Android 5.0 in those days. Ha ....Yep, Bare feet are common in New Zealand. Well it use to be..... I'm old 😆
@@paulywooly I'm in New Zealand too and just did my one wearing bare feet as well. Had to use a puller bolt to get the rotor off as it's the type with the new black rotor.
Hey Paul will a severe loud and stickn bearing cause machine to be out of balanced on spin machine is being fully washed and still getn beep out of balance warning noise
Maybe, if the bottom bearing has completely disintegrated. Also it could be a faulty Out Of Balance switch that could cause that. It's situated under the control module. Does the machine have severe vibration on spin? Or does it seem normal Also check the little spring on the front left of the bowl cap hasn't fallen off. If you undo the top 2 front screws and lift the lid panel up, there should be a small spring attached from the suspension rod and the bowl cap. If it has gone, it would have fallen down the rod and it'll be sitting at the bottom. Hope this helps
Hi Paul: Great video. I tried to follow all the steps but I made a mistake during my install of the seal. I tapped it in a little to much and it now sits about 1/16" below the ridge of the tub. Not sure what to do at this point. Should I simply replace the seal again. I thought about trying to tap the upper bearing and seal back out and then reinstalling them but I was not sure how successful that would be. I works just fine but my fear is it will prematurely fail. Thanks.
Thanks for this video. We have a problem with our Fisher & Paykel Aquasmart washing machine model no WL80T65D. It is leaking water when the machine is in operation & is very noisy during the spin cycle. This particular model does not have an internal agitator. I suspect the bearings & seal need replacing. Do you know if the bearing & seal c/o procedure as shown in this video will suit the WL80T65D washing machine? I understand the bearing & seal kit you use on this machine in the video will suit my washing machine.
Yes according to this website the bearing seal kit is the same . Unfortunately I haven't ever repaired that model before but it looks like the only difference is the smaller agitator. It should have a wing nut on top to undo it ...see exploded view 3 spares.bigwarehouse.com.au/index.php?cPath=64658_64721_85030 Also see here...the seals and bearings are the same throughout all models www.homeappliancesonline.co.nz/shop/Home+Appliances+Spare+Parts/Spare+Parts+by+Brand/Fisher+%26+Paykel+Appliances+Parts/Fisher%26Paykel+Washing+Machine+Parts/Fisher+and+Paykel+ELBA+washing+machine+bearing+and+lip+seal+kit+lip+seal++all+top+loaders%3Fsku=02342.html
Thanks for the helpful video Paul. I've recently cleaned out the pump and its inlet chamber of my MW512 after finding that my clothes weren't washing properly. My machine pauses during the empty cycles but resumes after a couple of minutes and empties successfully. There is a faint electrical smell that seems to be coming from the pump but the pump still gets the job done and no error comes up on the control panel. I've also noticed a period in the rinse cycle where the agitator is rotating back and forth when there isn't much/any water. This has left me puzzled and unable to identify the problem. Now I'm wondering if there is an issue with the bearings and the machine is under load. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
An electrical burning smell means the pump has burnt out and must be replaced immediatety. Otherwise this can cause the motor controller to burn out also. A faulty pump that's slowly burning out describes all the symptoms you are talking about
Thanks for the video! I love how you actually took the whole thing out of the body that way! Ill try that next time! I noticed next to the lid switch and the display plug, how come there is nothing in that slot apart from the tab?
Yes you can. If you undo the 2 screws at the front you can lift the whole top panel upwards, without unplugging the control unit. Be careful of the out of balance lever if it has one. Prop the lid panel up with something. Then watch this video from 4:40 to get to the main shaft and seal.. Then the seal can be prized out with a small screwdriver slowly around it's outer edge.
Thank you so much your video was very very helpful I did that with my LG washer it was a total success !!! 😀 after that I have a feeling that I can fix everything !?
PAUL Thanks for the vids, i have a FP washsmart with code 001110000 and not sure what it is? the mach starts to fill with hot n cold then after a few minutes the code and 1-sec beeps?
Hi. Firstly your fault code is too long. I'm assuming it's 00111000 a "bowl check" fault. Try these things: 1. Switch off at the wall for 5 mins and then try again. 2. When the machine is empty, use both hands to lift up the internal bowl and it pull up freely for about an inch and then stop. If it is not free means there maybe clothing stuck between the inner and outer bowl. Check my how to service a smart drive video. 3. Make sure clothes are evenly distributed 4. The rotor position sensor has a fault. Check my error code 130 video to get to the sensor. If my fault code is wrong ...let me know
P.S. There are two qualities of bearings - the cheap chinese budget ones, and the superior NSK (approx $10 extra ea). F & P use the better one. Your choice.
Dear Paul: I wasn’t confident enough to do this to my wife’s beloved Excellence so we saved up and had Fisher and Paykel replace the bearings and also the shaft on our machine (as the shaft was stuck and the technicians bashed the end in and cracked it getting it out). We also had the 4 shock absorber rods replaced. We then happened to have the lid up one day a couple of months later and noticed the inner bowl is now sitting slightly to one side. Before the “restoration” the inner bowl sat absolutely flush. If possible, could you please advise what might be causing the inner bowl to now sit slightly to one side?
It maybe a suspension rod fallen off. Under the lid there's 2 rubber caps on the sides. Remove them and Undo the 2 screws. Lift up the whole top and look to see if a rod has dropped off. It maybe the plastic mount at the top that has broken. It may also be the feet need adjusting. Under the machine the feet can be turned to adjust the level and bring the inner bowl back to the centre
Hi Paul, awesome vid. Thought I'd give it a go on my 2005 Intuitive Eco IW812 as the bowl did not turn smoothly when turned by hand. After taking the whole machine apart, cleaning everything, installing new bearings and seal, the bowl still doesn't turn smoothly. The motor sometimes struggles to start the bowl turning when filling with water. I've given the shaft a wack but I'm out of ideas on what it could be or how to fix. The machine also made a new humming noise when speeding up to spin but this seemed to go not long after - can't say if it is 100% gone. Is this also normal after changing bearings?
Your machine is a phase 6 model. It maybe faulty wiring in the motor. Jump to 5.00 mins of this video to test the motor windings. You should get 31 or 32 ohms between red yellow blue wires. ua-cam.com/video/5GPBq3XKZMk/v-deo.html Were those 3 wires connected to the motor in the correct order when you put the machine back together?. You'll see RBY printed on the motor casing. Also the rotor position sensor can be faulty causing the agitator not to rotate when filling and there won't be a fault code. Check ua-cam.com/video/pUrtHJ-1kPI/v-deo.html for that. Failing all that, the motor control unit could be faulty and need replacing. I'm not sure about the new strange noise on spin
@@paulywooly Hi Paul, thanks for the prompt reply. I just tested the motor windings and they're reading fine. I definitely put the RYB connectors back correctly as I double checked this. I feel this is more a mechanical problem. When I turn the bowl by hand, it doesn't turn smoothly; it sort of jitters. It did this even before the bearing replacement (this is what prompted me to replace the bearings).
It is normal to hear small rumbles when turning the bowl by hand. It is not ever smooth and quiet. This is the magnets in the flywheel and stator moving past each other. It is only smooth and quiet when you test the clutch. Lift the whole bowl up until it stops and then turn it. It should be quiet and easy to turn. A good way to test if it's the magnets making the noise is to continue to turn the bowl as you switch it on at the wall. The bowl should then slightly lock up and be more difficult to move. I am still thinking it's the rotor position sensor or the motor control that's the culprit. Sorry I'm running out of ideas too I'm afraid.
Hi Paul, I noticed in your description you say I should use a silicone based product instead of petroleum.......will any old silicone spray will do? or does it need to be some heavy duty stuff, or maybe just a silicone spray from the cheap shop? In another video someone suggested Lanox Inox, but from what I can tell that is not silicone based. Thanks 🙂
@@paulywooly I ended up using a silicone lubricant spray all over the seal and shaft. Now a couple weeks later, I am getting a squeaking sound during the wash cycle which is caused by the shaft rubbing against the seal. So I am guessing a silicone spray lubricant is not sufficient. I might have to try and find some rubber grease that you mentioned.
Thank you so my for the excellent video. I would have never been able to do this without it. However, I do have a problem. When I run the machine - it won't drain. On the last spin cycle it won't drain or spin quickly. What could be wrong? I checked all wiring. Now, it does not even work. It is giving me error 00110001. I did run the machine with a black clip and the metal clip reversed when originally getting it to run that first reassemble. Could I have damaged the Motor Controller?
For a start, which model do you have? Is there any lights on the panel at all or is it dead? The error code 00110001 is a water valve fault or wiring to the water valves not connected. A common symptom of not draining and spinning can be the rotor position sensor down the bottom is not plugged in firmly. I'm not sure which black clip or metal clips in reverse you're talking about.
@@paulywooly I have model GWL11. I do believe I had the ground clips switched. I do not think that was what damaged the motor controller. I did accidentally unhook the hoses without turning them off and got water on the motor controller - enough to damage it. I got a used one off eBay. My washer is now up and running. Thanks again Paul for the awesome videos.
Your video helped us hugely! Fantastic! We put it all back together but unfortunately when the machine is filling it stops and starts. It also won't spin. We can't find what we've done wrong. Any suggestions??
The rotor position sensor will cause all those problems. Check it is seated in properly and check the plug hasn't fallen off. If you have water in the machine... Lean the machine back against the wall to remove the motor again and you should see the sensor. Check the plugs on the control unit too. Turn power off first
We fixed that problem. Unfortunately now we have another one! The machine is filling up with water but then the agitator won't move. It's making a groaning sound. Help!
Thanks for the video, I was tearing down and I couldn't remove the shaft so after watching the video I did it in a couple of minutes. As I came to this one from the one with the balance switch, I wonder if Fisher and Paykel doesn't make anymore the switch are you aware of any replacement?. Thanks again.
The balance switch is a normal microswitch bought from electrical shop. It looks like this rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F172618095132
Sorry it's been 2 weeks but I didn't see your message until now. $293 is a complete rip-off for bearings and seal!! Not sure which country you live in but look online ...maybe eBay or similar
It should slide thru from the inside and stop dead at the raised part of the shaft exactly like the video. It will stop with just enough thread showing to get the large nut on. Bearings are 6005. Important.....Most people don't smack the inside bearing down far enough to the bottom. Once it is pushed in by hand it will smack down at least another inch until it stops. You'll hear and feel when it stops. ( OR...Some people also have old bearings that have fallen to pieces and the OUTER of the broken bearing is still stuck in the bowl). The seal on top will sit flush with the plastic bowl. The spacer tube will be a tight fit between the bearings. I hope this helps. I can't think of anything else
I'm giving this a go. Im 53 and poor! I have taken machine apart and now realised that the new bearings maybe too hard to get in for me. I gather they aren't in right because when i tip the machine over it falls out. I assume they are meant to seat into that little recess? I have no idea how, they will actually fit in there, but im going to pop these bearings into the freezer like a few people have said below and see if that helps. HELP anyone, I am a absolute novice.
I'm 53 as well and even poorer. I've never put them in the freezer before but lots of people have. You should have removed the old bearings with some sort of punch so the new ones need punching in as I do in the video. Make sure they are the correct ones. - 6005 and they should be tapped down at least half an inch until it stops and the sound of the tapping sounds "solid".
Paul P Thabks Paul. I checked and they are the same as what came out. One bearing disintegrated and this one is seized. They look the same size. It's importable I think for me to explain where I need help without a picture. I couldn't find an email, so you have one!? I did use force to get them out half the reason it shattered probably. Females aren't meant to do this lol. I've decided I'm going to put the old washer on top of the new one and use that to try and hit it in. I'll send you a pic just to clarify what I'm doing is right. I'm nervous. 😂 If I can't email you. I'm just wondering if the bearing has to go into that recess that's under the lip . Anyway I have to continue this tomorrow I think. I have the flu.
I thought "girls can do anything". Well that's the saying here in NZ. Nothing personal, but I'm not giving out my email. I've done that before and got bombarded with annoying emails for over a year. Push the bearing down the hole by hand until it stops THEN you have to smack it down ABSOLUTELY LEVEL another half inch or so until it completely stops. If you can find a piece of tubing or round wood (old broom handle) that's slightly smaller than the bearing will help immensely. Then the seal is pushed completely down inside as well until it stops.
Paul P Thanks Paul. It's ok about the email. I understand. Here is a fb post I made to show you what I mean. facebook.com/100000600709068/posts/2622834357746562/. I hope your able to answer my queries with those pics. Thanks for all your help and advice. I'm trying hahahaha. I kick like a girl and I fix machines like one! 😜🤣
@Paul . Thanks so much. The problem I ran into was that the outer part of the old bearing had stuck inside and that's what i could see and why i was having trouble. I needed help to get it out, but realised when putting the pieces of the old bearing back- it was missing and that's why i couldn't understand why it wasn't going to fit back. All good now, Machine is back together, I feel so proud with myself that I have done that. Thank you so much for this informative video! Thankyou so much for your help. I fixed my "cannot be fixed" machine as per the repair man, to fixing it myself for $40!
Luke Kneebone Yeah, it still sounds like it when those models were new. That was just the way those motors were designed, they didn’t make quiet models until 2012 (I think)
any repairs that the manufacturer does not recommend the customer to even attempt to try due to health and safety issues should call and arrange a technician.
Where exactly is the health and safety issue here? It's mostly mechanical. Should we all stop changing the oil in our own cars as well for health and safety? Maybe you should call a technician to change your vacuum cleaner bag too because the dust might be harmful. Please don't force your petty issues on the rest of us. I already stripped down, cleaned and reassembled an entire machine down to the last screw with the help of this video. I never would have had the confidence to do so without Paul's wonderful videos.
I was quoted $600 to do this repair from a technician. I can buy a new washer for $450. I instead bought the parts in NZ for $43 and fixed it in a few hours, avoiding a trip to the scrappy and wasted money on a new unit. Now the original F&P is now running sweet, Add in the satisfaction of the repair. Gold.
Ornacia - Over the years I've had the lid switch fail, balance sensor fail, pump fail (fixed with cleaning), motor control board failed (corrosion on the board), and now bearings. Doing these repairs myself has saved me hundreds in tech callouts and in parts, or the cost of a new washing machine.
Cheers Paul. Wouldn't have been able to do this without this video, even the follow-up one about it not spinning. It's all sorted now.Much appreciated.
Thanks so much for posting this. I did ours today, and gave it a thorough clean up as well. It looks and runs as good as it ever has. Took me a couple of hours, but now the boss is cheering. You know what they say - happy wife = happy life. Thanks so much.
A couple of hours is about right. Well done! Especially with a happy wife
Thanks Paul, really appreciate you taking the time to make this vid. So many you tubers waffle on about this and that and waste so much time with unnecessary talk. Your instruction is to the point with all the relevant information, some good tips and no waffle.
I just finished putting my machine back together with two brand new bearings, (the old ones were totally destroyed, I shouldn't have run it so long on screeching bearings). No way could I have done it without your video, so again, thanks dude, appreciate the heck out of you right now.
Thank you. I appreciate that. I totally agree with you on the waffle. I watched a video the other day on a Briggs and Stratton motor that was 20mins waffle and 2 mins of real information
What a great video. Thanks Paul. I got deep into disassembly before checking if good ol UA-cam had guidance. You gave me the confidence to carry on without getting grumpy and taking it to the dump!!
Also the bearings and seal kit $36 including postage to Hamilton. Bloody brilliant help!
Good stuff mate, thanks for sharing.
I've had my F&P Washing Machine for over 20 years.
I replaced the water pump a year or two ago & this Easter weekend going to have a crack at replacing the bearings.
You've made it look pretty straight forward, hopefully all goes well & I get to keep it running for a few more years.
Cheers
Thanks for the great instructional video. Very easy to follow going step by step in a clear concise manner. You saved me from calling out a repairman. As with other comments cost about $30 for the bearings and took a couple of hours going slowly following each step. Thanks again :D
You're a top bloke, thanks mate for the effort to make this video. I'm used to seeing the old washing machines with a back cover and had me stumped how to pull this one apart. But you cleared all that up for me.
After a long wait to find the time, i have completed the bearing replacement. Pretty much exactly as instructed, Thanks again.
Hi Paul.
Thanks for a great no nonsense, no bull, how to video. I didn't have a clue how to do it but followed your instructions and voila....sounds like a washing machine again, not a train. When I was fitting the new bearing from the inside I used the old bearing on top of the new one to tap it into position as I was worried about damaging the new one, and that worked well. The only thing that went wrong was that the magnets inside the rotor picked up a screw, but fortunately I found that out before doing any damage.Once again thank you very much. Hope to get another 10 years out of the old girl.
I had a quote to do the repair for $200. This was $40 (I already had some petroleum jelly)
Thanks for the informative video saving a lot people money and stopping fixable items from being tossed out.
Good video. To the point and concise. I tried to shortcut however it was unrewarded. Anyone attempting this for the first time, follow the instructions to the letter. I didn't have the tube to knock the new seal into place so I used the old seal atop the new seal and push it in manually (initially) Then I used a piece of soft timber to strike the old seal, that way, no damage was done to the new seal and seated quite easily. The shaft was quite worn so it will be leaking is the next issue. Hopefully a few years down the track.
Great video, thanks mate. Just changed the bearings and thanks to you it’s all good. Only cost me $30 for the parts and a couple of hours taking it slow following your instructions. Thank you very much.
sorry to be so offtopic but does someone know of a way to log back into an instagram account?
I was dumb forgot the login password. I appreciate any help you can offer me!
@Bishop Gianni Instablaster :)
@Brayden Mustafa Thanks for your reply. I got to the site on google and im waiting for the hacking stuff now.
Takes quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Brayden Mustafa It did the trick and I finally got access to my account again. I'm so happy:D
Thank you so much, you saved my account !
@Bishop Gianni Glad I could help :D
Thx mate saved me $700 for a new washer. Whirlpool forums recommended it would cost more to get the repair man out than to buy a new one - doing it myself cost $36 ($30 for washer kit and $6 for Petroleum Jelly). The filth that had accumulated I had to scrape off my arms with a spatula! I recommend popping the washers in the freezer for half an hour and to lightly grease them before insertion.
Thanks. I didn't know that whirlpool machines must be very similar to these machines
Nah mate, Whirlpool forums is a common forum that discusses any topic. Whirlpool is or was an ISP and they opened a forum which it still running to this day.
Found this video after same washing machine developed a very noisy spin cycle and very helpful. I did find it easier to lay the washer on its side to work underneath and this avoided removing the outer drum. Upper bearing however required a lot of persuasion from a heavy hammer on a length of timber dowling same diameter as bearing to fully seat. Other comment about putting bearings in freezer beforehand is a good idea. One thing I noticed was the central tubing still had some end clearance after the bearings seemed to be fully seated so tightening the bottom nut caused the bearings to bind. I had to do up this nut just over finger-tight to stop any binding and relied on tightening of the magnet drum onto this nut to hold it firm. This is something to watch out for in case something causes the distance between the seated bearings to be a bit longer than the length of the tube.
Is the machine still working well? I see that you had limited torque available on the nut upon refit. I'm to start this job on my machine this morning. Your short cut sounds inviting.
Great Video helped me a lot, I had issues getting the Bearings to seat right, My fix after some pounding and tearing my hair out, Freeze the Bearings, only left them for 30 minutes, you can do longer, and they slip in with a gentle tap, 3 hours pissing round, 1 hour to complete it after that, PS don't forget to put the drain pump back the right way.
Thanks Paul, I never realised these washing machines were so serviceable.
Thanks for the posting mate. It was exactly what I needed to do the bearings on my machine. Had a little grief getting the shaft back in, as it didn't want to go in the full distance. Had to persuade it with a little kinetic energy! But kudo's to you. Couldn't have done it without this video, nor had the confidence to try!
Thank you for the reply. Glad it worked out for you!
Thanks Paul, about to do my washing machine soon. Wifey is down at the local spare parts warehouse to get the bearing and seal kit for my MW511. Cheers
If you need more help give me a yell
Thanks for this video, it was very helpful.
When I removed the shaft and bearings dark rusty oily liquid poured out, so no wonder it sounded terrible on spin.
I found it difficult to seat the top bearing down far enough, and I was afraid of damaging it with the force I was applying. In the end I had to make a wooden rod the same diameter as the bearing outer ring and beat it into place with a large mallet.
When I got it back together and tested it I got error 10000011 (131) 'persistent rotor position sensor fault', but having replaced that three times already I knew it was probably just the connector. Pulling that off and cleaning the blue 'salt' off the contacts fixed it.
Then when tested it did the initial wash OK, but after draining it would not spin and gave error 00101000 (40) 'drum seating check failed'. Examining it showed that it definitely was seating (inner drum dropping back down freely). I checked the RPS, water sensing hose and refitted the agitator. Then it occurred to me that perhaps it just needed a little more weight in the drum, rather than testing empty. Sure enough I did a 1/2 load of clothes and it worked perfectly. Perhaps there is a little scale on the 'clutch' preventing it locking down with not much mass in it. A lot of white scale came out from inside the bottom of the inner drum when I was cleaning it as Paul recommended.
Thanks heaps for this video. I have completed the replacement of the bearings following you step by step. Broke the earth wire clip but no further hassles. Much appreciated!
Great video. I did the bearings on my 15 year old Fisher and Paykel smartdrive on the weekend. It's doable however I wouldn't say it's for someone with limited technical skills. It took me quite a few hours to do. I had quite a bit of trouble getting the old shaft back through once I put in the new bearings. It took quite a lot of beating with a rubber mallet and piece of wood to get it through. I should have tried sanding it. Using Lanox inox on all screws and bolts when you put back also a great idea. Also when I put in the bearings seal it doesn't sit flush with the top of the bowl but rather quite a bit under the lip, that said it seems to run well so not sure if it's meant to be like that or the new bearings are a different size. That said I got it all back together and I can't believe how quiet the machine is now on the spin cycle. Thanks again for the video as just someone showing all the steps and parts gives you the confidence to take it on however just remember it's not a beginner's job.
No it's certainly not the easiest of jobs.
The shaft should be easily pushed back in by hand. If the shaft is difficult to get back in, means one of the bearings is sitting on a slight angle but it should be ok. Some seals can sit about 2-3mm below the lip so this is normal. Well done for giving it a go and congratulations for successful finish.
I've just done this on a 14 year old unit. I spent a couple of hours cleaning all the drums and parts - it was filthy in there. Also spent a hour or two wire brushing the inside of the case and re-spraying any rust areas with zinc spray. Hopefully it'll now give me a pile more years of operation.
Kerry Mudgee
Thank you for the very detailed and informative video. I shall now embark on remedying a water leak ( possibly the seal) and replace the bearings to complete the job. I now approach the job with much greater confidence thanks to your guidance
95 percent of water leaks come from the pump or a cracked drain hose, not the seal. I would check for that first. Unless your bearings are making a horrendous noise on spin then yes your seal is probably the culprit
@@paulywooly Thank you Paul for your further advice.
thanks so much for this it was really helpful. i had a lot more trouble getting the bearings out (took a lot of beating) and getting the inside one in, but all back together and just have to test.
Great video, and with one hand. Just a tip - before you try to take the bowls apart, remove the water pump from underneath. It's a very simple job, just disconnect the two leads (power and earth) and trip the plastic latch holding it in place, twist and remove. Why? The vanes on the pump motor are easily broken (I know!)
P.S. Would pay to regrease while out. Very simple. Unscrew the agitator, pop of the rubber seal, dry, regrease (pref with water pump grease), reassemble. Done.
Thanks mate, l just did mine it’s a bit newer but basically the same . You saved me buying a new one.
Excellent video. I followed it and was easily able to change the bearing and seals. Thank you.
Great demo. I am going to give this ago. I can't wait also to clean the gunk I know lurks below and have a balanced washing machine once again. Thanks
I found this video really helpful followed it to the end and now have a perfectly good machine machine cant believe there was so much gunk build up everywhere had to use a geri . I bought the bearing kit for $38 I can only imagine how much the repair would of been call someone out . Thanks heaps for the video :)
Did you buy on ebay?
Where at that price?
Your video encouraged me to have a go at correcting a very noisy spinning cycle. Took a bit longer than the video but the GW501 is all good now. One of the bearings was badly worn!
Another Thank you comment from another very grateful Kiwi.
Thank you good sir👍🏻
Thank you very much for making this video.
This trimmed a lot of time off my repair.
Would like to add removed pump from drum when upside down and rinse out the pump cavity.
2 washes and no water under our washer.
I am just about to do this task. Thanks for a first class instructional video. Love the bare feet....
Thanks Paul, most helpful although I do miss the freight train.
Best how to vid I have watched Well done and thanks
Thanks for that
Thank you very much. Very skilled & detailed, and a lot of labor of love.
Thank you! This video was an enormous help.
Thank very much for the clearly explained video.
Saved me mate. Great video. Thanks so much. Got is all back together and it goes rough all the cycles, drains but then fails to spin. It chugs back and forth. I'm thinking it's just tight so will look at it tomorrow.
Oh and lid lock is not engaging
Watch the last half of this, it should help
ua-cam.com/video/-ibZ7CU-hVM/v-deo.html
Yep I got it spinning again real well then but it has gone back to thumping. I may have tightened the bottom nut too much. The bearings are sealed so no need for grease yeah?
That's right you can't grease them any more. And you can't get the nut too tight because of the spacer tube between the bearings. The last time I had your problem it took several hard snacks on the main shaft to get it to work
Good tutorial. I am actually trying to fix the drain hose as it seems to be leaking a little, I guess its the same top down approach to strip down the machine to access the area I think the leak is in...right down by the bowl !
MOST of the leaky drain hoses I've had have been near the top where the pipe comes out of the machine at the back. The water travels down the hose on the inside to the motor which gives a false impression it's leaking down there. But it maybe different it your case. Check and look very closely to the corrogated pipe. Bend the pipe in all directions and look for a small hole. It's usually where it's been rubbing on a wall or similar.
OR
The other culprit can be a leaky water pump when it's pumping out. The main shaft seal of the pump gets full of dirt and dust and can leak. The pump can be removed and pulled apart by unscrewing the impeller anti clockwise and the big rubber main seal can be lifted off and cleaned. Put some petroleum jelly down the hole when reassembling. This should stop a leaky pump.
@@paulywooly thanks, I followed both lines and coukdn't see much wrong with the drain hose however when I lifted the pump out the seal was very gritty, I suspect some iron or steel filings from when I have been cutting structural steel. A good clean and some jelly and reassembled. Testing looks good so far.
First time for changing main bearing ,so this was a great video
Thank you
Awesome vid mate, very detailed
ok my shaft also went thru too far, then i noticed the ridge on the shaft must be on top of the bearing , you must put in both bearings before you slide the shaft back in. or the shaft will be able to move in too far. Also notice you don't have to dissemble everything that far (except to clean) you can just lean the unit back and work from underneath only 2 screws to remove from the top get you full assess to the tub area just use a string to hold the top swung back out of your way you don't even need to unplug the water lines or drain. if shaft goes thru too far it allows the magnets to ride too low and the motor only twitches and wont turn. I also put a little silicone around the outer edge of the seal just for peace of mind. Power washer works great for blowing off the lime if you do dissemble it that far.
Thanks very much !! Very helpful . Cheers Shaun
Excellent video. Thanks.
At 12:38 you said if "if the shaft is severely damaged" it should be replaced since the seal will fail. How much damage is bad? Did you use emory paper because that shaft was damaged, or is emory a routine part of the usual procedure? Tnx for great vid
I always use Emery paper on all shafts. Just a little buffing up.
If the shaft just has even rings around it where the old seal was rubbing then it will be fine. But if the shaft is pitted by corrosion then the shaft needs replacing.
See here for what is a pitted shaft, in case you don't know.
www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f114/pitted-prop-shaft-repair-52294.html
I believe that my machine is leaking thru the rubber lipseal but not the bearings. I have absolutely no noise coming from the bearings themselves. Can I just replace the lipseal from the tub without removing the bearings? That way I would not have to deal with the plumbing and wiring etc. Thank you.
It's very rare for the seal to be leaking without the bearings being damaged.
Most leaks come from the drain pump. If you can put the machine on some wooden blocks and look underneath while it's draining the leak will come from the front right of the machine. Next common thing is, If the drain hose is split, the leak will come from the back right. If the seal is faulty the the leak will come from the motor in the centre. The seal can be slowly prized out around the edges, with a screwdriver.
@@paulywooly Thankyou so much. It's just that the leak only occurs during a wash cycle but not during fill or emptying. I am not complaining though it is an old GW608U that we bought back in 1998 (when they were being made in NZ) not sure about the quality now they are made by Haeir in China. Any opinions about Haier?
@@DM-cp4uk yes my opinion is "Crap" . Keep the machine going as long as you can. I still fix Smartdrive machines from 1993 and they're still going strong
Jeepers, you need a third arm aka a helper to hold the video cam - I'm feeling seasick :)
The hint on using a piece of 40mm DWV pipe to seat the seal was very useful though !
Yeah sorry the video is crap
@@paulywooly apologies for the harsh comment. The content has some nuggets including getting that seal at the right height, otherwise you get leaks - don't ask how I know LOL.
Thank you once again. We replaced the bearings successfully with your help two years ago and have had to do it again. Is that normal? We’ve done it again but Unfortunately the machine is not working. It’s turning on but there is no water. The tap is turned on. Any ideas?
Maybe the mainshaft was to worn the make a good seal, hence the 2 years. Not sure about the water. You wouldn't have disconnected the water valves ? It it both hot and cold not working? Check rotor position sensor is properly plugged in
@@paulywooly
Thanks for that quick response! The shaft is very worn. I think we will just have to bite bullet and buy a new machine.
Hi Paul. Our Fisher and Paykel bangs away in spin cycle and eventually stops. Can you do a video about this?
Has it had new bearings fitted?
Try these videos
ua-cam.com/video/-ibZ7CU-hVM/v-deo.htmlsi=CSxiYTgon5bgwk7F
ua-cam.com/video/rcypPHAzhCA/v-deo.htmlsi=oCtmOn937CdxU1JI
Good video, although just wondering why you are filming in 240p this far into the future? You using the world's oldest camera perhaps? So New Zealand to do this in bare feet!
Thanks.
@@stockwellengineeringhints3527 yes it is a very old video taken with my old HTC cell phone which was Android 5.0 in those days.
Ha ....Yep, Bare feet are common in New Zealand. Well it use to be..... I'm old 😆
@@paulywooly I'm in New Zealand too and just did my one wearing bare feet as well. Had to use a puller bolt to get the rotor off as it's the type with the new black rotor.
@stockwellengineeringhints3527 really? I have never used a puller to get the rotor off. They usually just drop off in your hand
Oh and just an fyi. The bearings were a tight fit when replacing them so I put them in the freezer for half an hour. Then perfect.
Hey Paul will a severe loud and stickn bearing cause machine to be out of balanced on spin machine is being fully washed and still getn beep out of balance warning noise
Maybe, if the bottom bearing has completely disintegrated. Also it could be a faulty Out Of Balance switch that could cause that. It's situated under the control module.
Does the machine have severe vibration on spin? Or does it seem normal
Also check the little spring on the front left of the bowl cap hasn't fallen off. If you undo the top 2 front screws and lift the lid panel up, there should be a small spring attached from the suspension rod and the bowl cap. If it has gone, it would have fallen down the rod and it'll be sitting at the bottom. Hope this helps
Thanks for a great deailed video
Hi Paul: Great video. I tried to follow all the steps but I made a mistake during my install of the seal. I tapped it in a little to much and it now sits about 1/16" below the ridge of the tub. Not sure what to do at this point. Should I simply replace the seal again. I thought about trying to tap the upper bearing and seal back out and then reinstalling them but I was not sure how successful that would be. I works just fine but my fear is it will prematurely fail. Thanks.
That's fine. In the past there have been two different types of seals made that were 1/16 of an inch difference in height.
@@paulywooly Thanks for the reassurance. We just did our first load of laundry. It was so nice to have quiet in our house again.
What was the symptom of the washer that caused you to replace the bearings. Ours makes lots of squealing noises. Thanks in advance.
Thanks for this video. We have a problem with our Fisher & Paykel Aquasmart washing machine model no WL80T65D. It is leaking water when the machine is in operation & is very noisy during the spin cycle. This particular model does not have an internal agitator. I suspect the bearings & seal need replacing. Do you know if the bearing & seal c/o procedure as shown in this video will suit the WL80T65D washing machine? I understand the bearing & seal kit you use on this machine in the video will suit my washing machine.
Yes according to this website the bearing seal kit is the same . Unfortunately I haven't ever repaired that model before but it looks like the only difference is the smaller agitator. It should have a wing nut on top to undo it ...see exploded view 3
spares.bigwarehouse.com.au/index.php?cPath=64658_64721_85030
Also see here...the seals and bearings are the same throughout all models
www.homeappliancesonline.co.nz/shop/Home+Appliances+Spare+Parts/Spare+Parts+by+Brand/Fisher+%26+Paykel+Appliances+Parts/Fisher%26Paykel+Washing+Machine+Parts/Fisher+and+Paykel+ELBA+washing+machine+bearing+and+lip+seal+kit+lip+seal++all+top+loaders%3Fsku=02342.html
Thanks for the helpful video Paul. I've recently cleaned out the pump and its inlet chamber of my MW512 after finding that my clothes weren't washing properly. My machine pauses during the empty cycles but resumes after a couple of minutes and empties successfully. There is a faint electrical smell that seems to be coming from the pump but the pump still gets the job done and no error comes up on the control panel. I've also noticed a period in the rinse cycle where the agitator is rotating back and forth when there isn't much/any water. This has left me puzzled and unable to identify the problem. Now I'm wondering if there is an issue with the bearings and the machine is under load. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
An electrical burning smell means the pump has burnt out and must be replaced immediatety. Otherwise this can cause the motor controller to burn out also. A faulty pump that's slowly burning out describes all the symptoms you are talking about
@@paulywooly Thank you so much Paul. I'll order a replacement pump for it now.
Thanks for the video! I love how you actually took the whole thing out of the body that way! Ill try that next time! I noticed next to the lid switch and the display plug, how come there is nothing in that slot apart from the tab?
It doesn't have a thermistor fitted in that model like I said in the vid
Cool!
Hi is it possible to rove the seal 🦭 without removing the motor and tub?
Yes you can. If you undo the 2 screws at the front you can lift the whole top panel upwards, without unplugging the control unit. Be careful of the out of balance lever if it has one. Prop the lid panel up with something. Then watch this video from 4:40 to get to the main shaft and seal.. Then the seal can be prized out with a small screwdriver slowly around it's outer edge.
@@paulywooly resect
Thank you so much your video was very very helpful I did that with my LG washer it was a total success !!! 😀 after that I have a feeling that I can fix everything !?
PAUL Thanks for the vids, i have a FP washsmart with code 001110000 and not sure what it is?
the mach starts to fill with hot n cold then
after a few minutes the code and 1-sec beeps?
Hi. Firstly your fault code is too long. I'm assuming it's 00111000 a "bowl check" fault.
Try these things:
1. Switch off at the wall for 5 mins and then try again.
2. When the machine is empty, use both hands to lift up the internal bowl and it pull up freely for about an inch and then stop. If it is not free means there maybe clothing stuck between the inner and outer bowl. Check my how to service a smart drive video.
3. Make sure clothes are evenly distributed
4. The rotor position sensor has a fault. Check my error code 130 video to get to the sensor.
If my fault code is wrong ...let me know
Very helpful
Thank you
For bearings and seal, call Auckland Bearing Distributors. Much cheaper than F & P's price.
P.S. There are two qualities of bearings - the cheap chinese budget ones, and the superior NSK (approx $10 extra ea). F & P use the better one. Your choice.
Dear Paul: I wasn’t confident enough to do this to my wife’s beloved Excellence so we saved up and had Fisher and Paykel replace the bearings and also the shaft on our machine (as the shaft was stuck and the technicians bashed the end in and cracked it getting it out). We also had the 4 shock absorber rods replaced. We then happened to have the lid up one day a couple of months later and noticed the inner bowl is now sitting slightly to one side. Before the “restoration” the inner bowl sat absolutely flush. If possible, could you please advise what might be causing the inner bowl to now sit slightly to one side?
It maybe a suspension rod fallen off. Under the lid there's 2 rubber caps on the sides. Remove them and Undo the 2 screws. Lift up the whole top and look to see if a rod has dropped off. It maybe the plastic mount at the top that has broken. It may also be the feet need adjusting. Under the machine the feet can be turned to adjust the level and bring the inner bowl back to the centre
Hi Paul, awesome vid. Thought I'd give it a go on my 2005 Intuitive Eco IW812 as the bowl did not turn smoothly when turned by hand. After taking the whole machine apart, cleaning everything, installing new bearings and seal, the bowl still doesn't turn smoothly. The motor sometimes struggles to start the bowl turning when filling with water. I've given the shaft a wack but I'm out of ideas on what it could be or how to fix. The machine also made a new humming noise when speeding up to spin but this seemed to go not long after - can't say if it is 100% gone. Is this also normal after changing bearings?
Your machine is a phase 6 model. It maybe faulty wiring in the motor. Jump to 5.00 mins of this video to test the motor windings. You should get 31 or 32 ohms between red yellow blue wires.
ua-cam.com/video/5GPBq3XKZMk/v-deo.html
Were those 3 wires connected to the motor in the correct order when you put the machine back together?. You'll see RBY printed on the motor casing.
Also the rotor position sensor can be faulty causing the agitator not to rotate when filling and there won't be a fault code. Check ua-cam.com/video/pUrtHJ-1kPI/v-deo.html
for that. Failing all that, the motor control unit could be faulty and need replacing.
I'm not sure about the new strange noise on spin
@@paulywooly Hi Paul, thanks for the prompt reply. I just tested the motor windings and they're reading fine. I definitely put the RYB connectors back correctly as I double checked this. I feel this is more a mechanical problem. When I turn the bowl by hand, it doesn't turn smoothly; it sort of jitters. It did this even before the bearing replacement (this is what prompted me to replace the bearings).
@@matyt94 if you switch the machine off at the wall and then turn the bowl, are the jitters reduced?
@@paulywooly No, it's the same.
It is normal to hear small rumbles when turning the bowl by hand. It is not ever smooth and quiet. This is the magnets in the flywheel and stator moving past each other.
It is only smooth and quiet when you test the clutch. Lift the whole bowl up until it stops and then turn it. It should be quiet and easy to turn. A good way to test if it's the magnets making the noise is to continue to turn the bowl as you switch it on at the wall. The bowl should then slightly lock up and be more difficult to move. I am still thinking it's the rotor position sensor or the motor control that's the culprit. Sorry I'm running out of ideas too I'm afraid.
Hi Paul, I noticed in your description you say I should use a silicone based product instead of petroleum.......will any old silicone spray will do? or does it need to be some heavy duty stuff, or maybe just a silicone spray from the cheap shop? In another video someone suggested Lanox Inox, but from what I can tell that is not silicone based. Thanks 🙂
Yes I suppose silicon spray would do. Or rubber grease. Anything like that is better than the seal being dry.
Any silicone lubricant or rubber grease will do. Anything like that is better than the seal being dry on the shaft.
@paulywooly thanks I will do that
@@paulywooly I ended up using a silicone lubricant spray all over the seal and shaft. Now a couple weeks later, I am getting a squeaking sound during the wash cycle which is caused by the shaft rubbing against the seal. So I am guessing a silicone spray lubricant is not sufficient. I might have to try and find some rubber grease that you mentioned.
Thank you so my for the excellent video. I would have never been able to do this without it. However, I do have a problem. When I run the machine - it won't drain. On the last spin cycle it won't drain or spin quickly. What could be wrong?
I checked all wiring. Now, it does not even work. It is giving me error 00110001. I did run the machine with a black clip and the metal clip reversed when originally getting it to run that first reassemble. Could I have damaged the Motor Controller?
For a start, which model do you have?
Is there any lights on the panel at all or is it dead? The error code 00110001 is a water valve fault or wiring to the water valves not connected. A common symptom of not draining and spinning can be the rotor position sensor down the bottom is not plugged in firmly. I'm not sure which black clip or metal clips in reverse you're talking about.
@@paulywooly I have model GWL11. I do believe I had the ground clips switched. I do not think that was what damaged the motor controller. I did accidentally unhook the hoses without turning them off and got water on the motor controller - enough to damage it. I got a used one off eBay. My washer is now up and running. Thanks again Paul for the awesome videos.
Hey Paul, what sort or silicone based product do you recommend using inside the seal? And where can I buy it from?
I use rubber grease. From an auto shop like Repco
Should I put some kind of sealant around the outside of the seal? Thanks
No
Your video helped us hugely! Fantastic! We put it all back together but unfortunately when the machine is filling it stops and starts. It also won't spin. We can't find what we've done wrong. Any suggestions??
The rotor position sensor will cause all those problems. Check it is seated in properly and check the plug hasn't fallen off. If you have water in the machine... Lean the machine back against the wall to remove the motor again and you should see the sensor. Check the plugs on the control unit too. Turn power off first
@@paulywooly thank you for your reply! We're not sure what the rotor position sensor is. Where is that?
I think we've found it. Checking it now.
We fixed that problem. Unfortunately now we have another one! The machine is filling up with water but then the agitator won't move. It's making a groaning sound. Help!
Thank you, Paul. It's now working a treat!!
Thanks for the video, I was tearing down and I couldn't remove the shaft so after watching the video I did it in a couple of minutes.
As I came to this one from the one with the balance switch, I wonder if Fisher and Paykel doesn't make anymore the switch are you aware of any replacement?. Thanks again.
The balance switch is a normal microswitch bought from electrical shop. It looks like this
rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F172618095132
Where can I get the part for $38? Our appliance store quoted $293 !!
Sorry it's been 2 weeks but I didn't see your message until now.
$293 is a complete rip-off for bearings and seal!!
Not sure which country you live in but look online ...maybe eBay or similar
I encountered the same rip-off price quoted by F&P for $285! I knew that was outrageous too.
Hope I can find bearings/seal cheaper also.
hey mate any idea what grade of stainless the shaft is?
Nope, sorry. Don't know if it helps but I have seen rusty shaft splines under the agitator in machines that use bad ground water, high in iron.
Thanks from over the ditch 😉
You're welcome. We're all feeling for you over there with the fires. Our skies are very very smokey here today.
@@paulywooly Thank you Paul. Appreciate your thoughts. Devastating to say the least.
I did this repair today and my shaft slides through without stopping like it did before. Any ideas?
I'm not sure I understand the question. The shaft slides thru the bearings and out the other side ?
t all the way but slides through quite a bit. I'm thinking it's a problem with the spacer tube.
It should slide thru from the inside and stop dead at the raised part of the shaft exactly like the video. It will stop with just enough thread showing to get the large nut on. Bearings are 6005.
Important.....Most people don't smack the inside bearing down far enough to the bottom. Once it is pushed in by hand it will smack down at least another inch until it stops. You'll hear and feel when it stops. ( OR...Some people also have old bearings that have fallen to pieces and the OUTER of the broken bearing is still stuck in the bowl). The seal on top will sit flush with the plastic bowl. The spacer tube will be a tight fit between the bearings. I hope this helps. I can't think of anything else
I'm giving this a go. Im 53 and poor! I have taken machine apart and now realised that the new bearings maybe too hard to get in for me. I gather they aren't in right because when i tip the machine over it falls out. I assume they are meant to seat into that little recess? I have no idea how, they will actually fit in there, but im going to pop these bearings into the freezer like a few people have said below and see if that helps. HELP anyone, I am a absolute novice.
I'm 53 as well and even poorer. I've never put them in the freezer before but lots of people have. You should have removed the old bearings with some sort of punch so the new ones need punching in as I do in the video. Make sure they are the correct ones. - 6005 and they should be tapped down at least half an inch until it stops and the sound of the tapping sounds "solid".
Paul P Thabks Paul. I checked and they are the same as what came out. One bearing disintegrated and this one is seized. They look the same size. It's importable I think for me to explain where I need help without a picture. I couldn't find an email, so you have one!? I did use force to get them out half the reason it shattered probably. Females aren't meant to do this lol. I've decided I'm going to put the old washer on top of the new one and use that to try and hit it in. I'll send you a pic just to clarify what I'm doing is right. I'm nervous. 😂 If I can't email you. I'm just wondering if the bearing has to go into that recess that's under the lip . Anyway I have to continue this tomorrow I think. I have the flu.
I thought "girls can do anything". Well that's the saying here in NZ. Nothing personal, but I'm not giving out my email. I've done that before and got bombarded with annoying emails for over a year. Push the bearing down the hole by hand until it stops THEN you have to smack it down ABSOLUTELY LEVEL another half inch or so until it completely stops. If you can find a piece of tubing or round wood (old broom handle) that's slightly smaller than the bearing will help immensely. Then the seal is pushed completely down inside as well until it stops.
Paul P Thanks Paul. It's ok about the email. I understand. Here is a fb post I made to show you what I mean. facebook.com/100000600709068/posts/2622834357746562/. I hope your able to answer my queries with those pics. Thanks for all your help and advice. I'm trying hahahaha. I kick like a girl and I fix machines like one! 😜🤣
@Paul . Thanks so much. The problem I ran into was that the outer part of the old bearing had stuck inside and that's what i could see and why i was having trouble. I needed help to get it out, but realised when putting the pieces of the old bearing back- it was missing and that's why i couldn't understand why it wasn't going to fit back. All good now, Machine is back together, I feel so proud with myself that I have done that. Thank you so much for this informative video! Thankyou so much for your help. I fixed my "cannot be fixed" machine as per the repair man, to fixing it myself for $40!
I noticed regardless of the bearing condition, it still sounds like a jet engine.
Depends how you run it for as a jet engine sound.
Luke Kneebone Yeah, it still sounds like it when those models were new. That was just the way those motors were designed, they didn’t make quiet models until 2012 (I think)
@@LoganT547 Yes 2012 they made the quiet motors.
Serial number dates July 1999
any repairs that the manufacturer does not recommend the customer to even attempt to try due to health and safety issues should call and arrange a technician.
Where exactly is the health and safety issue here? It's mostly mechanical. Should we all stop changing the oil in our own cars as well for health and safety? Maybe you should call a technician to change your vacuum cleaner bag too because the dust might be harmful. Please don't force your petty issues on the rest of us. I already stripped down, cleaned and reassembled an entire machine down to the last screw with the help of this video. I never would have had the confidence to do so without Paul's wonderful videos.
I was quoted $600 to do this repair from a technician. I can buy a new washer for $450. I instead bought the parts in NZ for $43 and fixed it in a few hours, avoiding a trip to the scrappy and wasted money on a new unit. Now the original F&P is now running sweet, Add in the satisfaction of the repair. Gold.
Totally agree with piss off fool.
Good luck with getting a technician to wipe your arse then🙄
Ornacia - Over the years I've had the lid switch fail, balance sensor fail, pump fail (fixed with cleaning), motor control board failed (corrosion on the board), and now bearings. Doing these repairs myself has saved me hundreds in tech callouts and in parts, or the cost of a new washing machine.
Rubbish video that you Put glue around the outside of the seal whirlpools you do
Why can't you stop saying rubbish comments for once!