@@samking4179 No, they're not. Did you actually watch this video or just skim it? The boots built in this video are superior to Aldens, even the 404. Alden is overpriced junk, tbh. Their vintage boots were far better, but they are trash these days. However, even their vintage boots don't hold a candle to what was built in this video.
Now this is what a $600 boot should be. I like my Indy 405s but the quality is not commensurate with the price. The welts on mine are stitched differently at each end and the back of the quarter is starting to pull up on both. Alden has convinced everyone that expensive = good and that they know best.
nice remake! i especially like how you tied the upper to the insole before welting and the threaded nails and brass nails. good choice! i have some tips that could be important for the construction though: the insole you prepared is actually the pattern for a normal, flat handwelt construction. for a norwegian welt you don't cut the little step on the outside sole edge! the holdfast itself is moved outwards and starts right at the sole edge and the awl comes out in the centre of the edge. this is way more durable, the outcome looks a lot cleaner and welting won't give you such a hard time! also wet the surface of your insole before channeling! as you know wet leather is easier to cut and work = more control = cleaner results/less injurys. it also creates a guide for an even depth of cuts as the leather portion where the water hasn't reached is harder than the wet surface. then you allways advertise that your wallets are saddlestitched. that is also how solestitching ideally should be done! one awl, one thread, two needles. your boots take more beating than your wallet. also it is not necessary to make cuts in the welt for flaring it out! i can see you had some trouble folding the welt along the heel and toe of the boot. this is avoided by: a: the right insole prep that i mentioned, b: trimming the welt to a smaller width BEFORE flaring out, c: pushing instead of tightly pulling the welt to the upper while stitching. you have to handle it very loosely and give a little extra welt material in every stitch. this way you extract the tension that makes 90° folding impossible and weakens the sole construction. and d: on sturdy welt material you can create a little groove in the flesh side, lengthwise along the line where you eventually want the welt to fold over. not to deep! around 1/3 of the thickness. ...no critique! just a bootmakers thoughts :)
At first, I thought this was going to be the same as any Indy upgrade by Bedo's, but you made it RA's own thing. Personal taste aside, I think the Thomas heel shape should have been kept. Beautiful job...the gusset addition was perfection.
Would have preferred a stealth mod, where the original appearance was maintained, but materials were upgraded. It's really not an Indy boot anymore, is it?
If you mean the Vibram soles and all the nice hardware, maybe not. People today are looking for comfort and durability and you want to get your money’s worth. A company should stand behind its product.
awesome build like the gusset, welt, new arctic sole. I would have still liked the cork and something else to make the boot more comfy as Doctor Jones is geriatric. Also not too big a fan of the hiker style eyelets but merely on the aesthetics. Awesome build! I expect to see a review video after miles of wear. Keep up the great work!
@@rikcazares7643 The tongue on several of my Alden boots will slide to the side(other manufacturers do as well) and their eyelets are terrible. I have sent brand new Aldens out for new eyelets prior to wearing. Certain models they are fine however the speedhooks are brutal and if you sit with your ankles crossed they can rip your pants and have had them gouge the other boot.
My favorite build yet. Those turned out incredibly well. Like a more uptown version of the JG Razorback. Props. I wish more boot makers would adopt these features.
Another nice build. This is the way Alden should build their boots for the amount of money the Indy boots now cost. Now you have the pefect winter boots for winter in Salt Lake,,,
Loving the channel and the things you do. Agreed, watching Taylor (sp?) skillfully disassemble, restore and upgrade is a pleasure. Super pumped and happy to see you've collected so many dope machines to aid you in furthering your craft. Can't wait to watch the next one. Cheers!
I am sure they already know how to make there boots better. These improvements have been done for years and are nothing new. But why would they sell the Indy with this construction increasing the cost drastically when 90+% of there customers are never going to need the upgrades displayed in this video?
I'm sure one of the vendors asked, they'd put in a special order for it. I've seen smooth chamois, 403 CXL Indys with a lug sole, CXL with a commando sole, 405s with a 360 split welt and commando sole, CXL Indys with a 270 welt and wedge soles, different suedes and such. I'd love to see a 405 with a lug sole from one of the shops, but there's still the 404 Kudu Indy too.
Another amazing idea! Great job guys. More companies should offer this. I’ll be taking my new unworn Alden Indy’s to my cobbler with this link to have this exact build done.
Awesome video. So much fun to see you work, especially given the craftsmanship and seeing you elevate the materials and techniques. The Arctic Grip sole was a surprising choice. I mean, the lo-pro lugs and winter traction totally make sense, but the harder rubber seems less suited to all-terrain pursuits than say the Megagrip or V100 White X. Also if the goal is to make a grippy shoe for adventures that one could also wear in the classroom, a sole warned to scratch indoor surfaces, like the Arctic Grip, is a tough sell. BUT I’m definitely no expert and this shoe is dope no matter the outsole.
Almost perfect, except I would have stitched down the midsole and not also the outsole. I prefer the option of just pulling off the outsole when wornt out, and gluing on a new one, instead of having to cut the threads every time a new outsole is needed. Plus, having those threads protected from the harsh terrain is a great advantage. It's why Hanwag does it that way.
yes + some nails or screws! an other nice option for maximum durability is to stitch the midsole to the welt and don't cut it flush to the welt edge but protruting a bit and then stitch the outsole only to the midsole. This also protects the softer welt leather from wear! thats also how white kloud does it
@@jimmylarge1148 ^^true. pretty ugly. but i saw they also have some norwegian welted models. and the point was the possibility to resole without cutting seams and taking the whole heel off every time. you get more wear out of this because you don't have to perforate the welt, each time your rubber outsole is worn out. i am more of a halfsole fan anyway. looks better imo, is more repairable and a leather heel construction is more durable without the layer of rubber in between.
It’s incredible that of all the shoemaking channels I follow,this is the only one that shows even just a glimpse on how to do a decent storm welt/Norwegian welt.
Really liked a few of the modifications that you guys made to the shoe - in particularly the insole/midsole and heel block. Having said that, I would have wanted you to keep the original sole and rubber heel profile. The “massive” rubber soles makes the shoes look somewhat different to the originals.
14:39 I could be wrong here, but it looks like that gusset isn't fully sewn together in the bottom corners. Doesn't that kind of negate the whole idea of having them sealed with a gusset tongue?
They look fantastic. I wonder why you went with vibram arctic grip through. The ultra soft rubber wears through pretty quick. One of their work boot soles like olympia or fire and ice is 80 percent as good as arctic grip and much harder wearing.
In my experience, very few boots have wear in the front and mid soles. Its always the heels that are going to pronate,stretch and wear down because people put a lot of pressure there especially if they’ve high arches. That’s the one that usually gets replaced first.
Why all the hate for Neocork? It’s my favorite sole. I just did a week long hike in Northern California in my Indy’s and didn’t slip once in rocks or sand or pine needles. I’m wearing them now and hate taking them off. In my experience with several different Aldens, the right size makes them the most comfortable shoe, but a little too long, and it feels right, but loses all the magic. It took me a lot of different lengths and widths, but I get it now, and wouldn’t change a thing on my Indys.
Because these folks don't actually seem to understand what the Indy boot is. They, and all the commenters want it to be built like a White's boot and that's not what it's trying to be. I think they kind of ruined the boot with this build to be honest. The neocork outsole is actually pretty fantastic. I have some of these overbuilt rugged boots, but I also have a pair of Indys and I would not like them more if they were built like a White's or Nick's boot. Only thing I'd change on them would be to put in a proper leather heel stack and midsole. Other that they're fine.
Nice video? I’ve had my Alden 405s for a couple of months now. I love them as they are. I’m a GenZer who grew up watching Indiana Jones movies. I’m also somewhat of an adventurer myself. Lived many adventures in the 22 years I served in the U.S. Marine Corps. Been in in countries around the world wearing “civilian attire.” I’m am confident that if I had to run, jump, pivot, fight, etc. in my Alden’s as they are, I would be able to do it. These are also the most comfortable boots I own. Second only in comfort to running sneakers.
I know it’s so much better constructed, but oy vey will that suck to break in with all that leather! Hopefully, Indy has fantastic cushy insoles. GREAT work!
Plus no Thomas hill which is vital for this boot (it is more of an orthopedic boot) and because of all the leather the shank is only making it worse to break in and pointless. They shouldn’t use one.
For me neo cork sole,steel shank(airport has you take off your shoes),standard eyelets(no speed hooks)leather over the inside., everything else was fine.
Apart from the gusset, general quality, and the eyelets, the finished product seems to be pretty similar in concept to J.Crew's take on the Indy boot. They call them the Kenton Pacer and they've even released versions with horween leather, akin to the Alden's. I've had a pair for about a year and put several hundred miles on them on various terrain. Absolutely love them, second in comfort only to my Blundstones. The vibram soles provide great traction while being low profile enough that I get away with wearing them in the office and with a sport coat/casual tailoring. I'm sure the story inside is not as durable or high quality as the RA build here, but I must say I'm impressed with the boots I got on sale for less than $200 (with what seems to be a 360 degree GYW?)! I'd love to see Rose Anvil find a pair of these other Indy alternatives to see how they stack up at their relative discount price. It'd be good to see them stack up against the Weston's as well. Thanks for all y'all do, these are a great set of channels!
Also, if you want to ride this Indiana Jones train a bit longer, I would love to see you cut open a pair of Wested's Adventure boots. Wested made the Indiana Jones jackets for the films. They do a line of "close enough" Indiana Jones style boots for those of us who don't want to take out a loan for a new pair of Aldens. I'd love to know what's inside of those. Maybe think about doing a video on the Wested boots? Thanks!
Love the new and upgraded version. Especially the two-toned gusset is beautiful. I would rather have the Boot with eyelets which are just not as sharp as the ones, the Indy boot uses, but it looks good too how you‘ve built it :) Keep this kind of content coming, it’s very enjoyable👍🏻
@@noone-pg4lr glass fibres are silca glass, and carbon is pure carbon strands. Carbon fibre uses epoxy and fibreglass can use epoxy or a different polymer. In short similar, but different
Aren’t period correct! I mean this is where you would use leather shanks but the point here is to build a strong pair of boots not to make something that belongs In a museum. You want the boots to stand up to whatever life can dish out.
Taylor showed us some really nice cobbler work here. I wonder how much really would this type of treatment add to the cost of an Alden boot, and why not offer an "enhanced" version to the more discerning public (yes, I know they are few in number, but hearty). LOL I really enjoyed this one. Especially the great work on the gusseted tongue and the Norwegian welt.
Do you recommend or can you to change the color of the Alden Indy to get a less reddish brown and a more brown color. Beautiful modification by the way.
Or you could buy the 404 Indy with the lug sole already on it. 360 welt, Kudu leather, Vibram lug sole... Still, I'll be checking out the Alden vendors to see who puts in for a 405 lug sole Indy make up.
Don't think you should've used vegtan leather for filler even with other shoe/boot maker's they'll use a chrome tan or cxl like leather to fill. I'm sure Indy would want his feet to not be tired/sore. Even porons a really good filler, it seems to get bastardized but it's a good filler.
Wow. Weston had to hire a boot maker and a bunch of machinery, with all those youtubebucks, to get the boots he really wanted! That's some serious flex; not only are my boots custom, I bought the craftsman and his machines.
I’ve tried the Thursday Hero boots and they were insanely comfortable. Loved them and they looked like new despite the $35 I paid for them. So little wear even though they were used! 😊
I have a nice pair of Corcoran Jump boots that I'd love the same treatment to, that you could make a video about("How the Army should have made the jump boot")
The only thing that bothers me about the builds is No One ever Burnishes the soles, they just leave them rough with looks like sloppy. It don't take much to run them on your sanders burnishing wheel and give the soles a nice polished look.
This is a copy of a comment I made on another of your videos: I'm going to try to show you and others what you miss in your sort of reductive analysis of Alden. First I'm in my 70s and have worn a lot of business shoes, casual shoes and boots throughout my life. Had my first pair of work boots when I was 8 yrs old... and many pairs since. A boot is a system. Each part has a function in context with the rest in order to achieve the goals of the boot. The Indy boot is an orthopedic boot built on a patented orthopedic last, designed to keep your foot in a healthy anatomical position. It has a wide toe box giving space for bunions or other deformities, and it narrows down at the instep and heel to produce a tall, long and firm heel cup. Other parts of the orthopedic system include the cork midsole, the well designed metal shank, and the Thomas heel. Cork, which seems to be missing from many of your favored boots, is buoyant, elastic, and water resistant. It is also very durable. A cork footbed molds around your foot to give orthopedic support and comfort. It's one of the reasons Indy boots "break in" in a matter of days or a couple of weeks. And stay comfortable over the life of the boot. And let me reiterate, cork is very rugged and does not break down easily. The Indy boot metal shank is made of tempered steel, properly contoured and triple ribbed for strength. Way to many boot makers use a thick piece of leather or wood for the shank. Simply cannot compete with a properly designed metal shank for arch support and long lasting comfort. The Thomas heel (the curved front of the heel) adds rear and midfoot medial support. Good for any foot, but especially for people with excessively pronated feet. This is why people love their Indy boots. Quick to break in, very supportive regardless of foot issues, and the orthopedic properties force you to walk correctly, making it possible to work all day in them very comfortably. And they are NOT overly heavy. Heavy boots are not good for your ankles, legs and lower back. That's why it's important for any boot maker to achieve the goals of the boot, at the least possible weight. I have arthritis now, and no longer wear any shoes other than my two pair of Indy boots. They reduce significantly the pain in my feet, legs and back. Since I live in Portland, no one cares when I wear them to the Symphony. Alden Indy Boots are better engineered than any other boot. Period.
This has me thinking about the possibility of someone modding those Wested Indys to have these specs and then selling them. I imagine they would end up coming out to a similar or lower price to the stock Aldens, and they'd be leagues ahead
I love those boots! I want a pair! Can I ask anyone with experience of them - those vibram arctic soles - are they as hard wearing as a normal vibram sole if you use them all year round or are they maybe a softer rubber compound to make them more grippy in snow/ice?
Get a Rose Anvil Kiltie here - bit.ly/3lJ0oXd or here for No-Show - bit.ly/3YFtYLX
or buy a piece of leather and cut it yourself! lol
Where do you get the thing you put the shoe on, the anvil or whatever, I don't know what its actually called
I would pay some serious money to get my hands on a pair of rose indies.
That's a fantastic name, to boot!
I like Anvil Indy better.
I agree. I would too.
Just buy the Alden Indy 404. They are better than the ones made in this video.
@@samking4179 No, they're not. Did you actually watch this video or just skim it? The boots built in this video are superior to Aldens, even the 404. Alden is overpriced junk, tbh. Their vintage boots were far better, but they are trash these days. However, even their vintage boots don't hold a candle to what was built in this video.
Taylor is a master artisan of the greatest kind. One who not only shows us how the work is done, but does it FREE!
Now this is what a $600 boot should be. I like my Indy 405s but the quality is not commensurate with the price. The welts on mine are stitched differently at each end and the back of the quarter is starting to pull up on both. Alden has convinced everyone that expensive = good and that they know best.
nice remake! i especially like how you tied the upper to the insole before welting and the threaded nails and brass nails. good choice!
i have some tips that could be important for the construction though: the insole you prepared is actually the pattern for a normal, flat handwelt construction. for a norwegian welt you don't cut the little step on the outside sole edge! the holdfast itself is moved outwards and starts right at the sole edge and the awl comes out in the centre of the edge. this is way more durable, the outcome looks a lot cleaner and welting won't give you such a hard time!
also wet the surface of your insole before channeling! as you know wet leather is easier to cut and work = more control = cleaner results/less injurys. it also creates a guide for an even depth of cuts as the leather portion where the water hasn't reached is harder than the wet surface.
then you allways advertise that your wallets are saddlestitched. that is also how solestitching ideally should be done! one awl, one thread, two needles. your boots take more beating than your wallet.
also it is not necessary to make cuts in the welt for flaring it out! i can see you had some trouble folding the welt along the heel and toe of the boot. this is avoided by:
a: the right insole prep that i mentioned,
b: trimming the welt to a smaller width BEFORE flaring out,
c: pushing instead of tightly pulling the welt to the upper while stitching. you have to handle it very loosely and give a little extra welt material in every stitch. this way you extract the tension that makes 90° folding impossible and weakens the sole construction. and
d: on sturdy welt material you can create a little groove in the flesh side, lengthwise along the line where you eventually want the welt to fold over. not to deep! around 1/3 of the thickness.
...no critique! just a bootmakers thoughts :)
At first, I thought this was going to be the same as any Indy upgrade by Bedo's, but you made it RA's own thing. Personal taste aside, I think the Thomas heel shape should have been kept. Beautiful job...the gusset addition was perfection.
Would have preferred a stealth mod, where the original appearance was maintained, but materials were upgraded. It's really not an Indy boot anymore, is it?
well, it's definitely less period correct, for starters...
If you mean the Vibram soles and all the nice hardware, maybe not. People today are looking for comfort and durability and you want to get your money’s worth. A company should stand behind its product.
So much good quality materials and techniques invested in the remaking of this boot.
I would gladly purchase a pair of Indy's if this were how they were made. Great video
If only I had the patience and tools to refab boots. Truly some amazing work on this channel
Now I would own those pair of boots. Alden pay attention this is how to make the proper boot.
awesome build like the gusset, welt, new arctic sole. I would have still liked the cork and something else to make the boot more comfy as Doctor Jones is geriatric. Also not too big a fan of the hiker style eyelets but merely on the aesthetics. Awesome build! I expect to see a review video after miles of wear. Keep up the great work!
I prefer the look of the original ones too. It seems that with the gusset, the eyelet replacement was not needed.
To make the boot more comfortable for a 90 year old Indiana Jones, it needs to come with a walker.
Leather is literally more comfortable than cork
@@rikcazares7643 The tongue on several of my Alden boots will slide to the side(other manufacturers do as well) and their eyelets are terrible. I have sent brand new Aldens out for new eyelets prior to wearing. Certain models they are fine however the speedhooks are brutal and if you sit with your ankles crossed they can rip your pants and have had them gouge the other boot.
My favorite build yet. Those turned out incredibly well. Like a more uptown version of the JG Razorback. Props. I wish more boot makers would adopt these features.
Another nice build. This is the way Alden should build their boots for the amount of money the Indy boots now cost. Now you have the pefect winter boots for winter in Salt Lake,,,
Loving the channel and the things you do. Agreed, watching Taylor (sp?) skillfully disassemble, restore and upgrade is a pleasure. Super pumped and happy to see you've collected so many dope machines to aid you in furthering your craft. Can't wait to watch the next one. Cheers!
I was fully expecting you to completely replace the upper as well. Nice to know that there’s at least something remaining from the original boot.
i was thinking the same thing.
For the toe knife build, it adds a whole new meaning to the steel shank in the boot.
Frank Reynolds will give you a whole new meaning of a toe knife....no botch job!
The boot of Theseus
I hope that the people at Alden watch this video.
I am sure they already know how to make there boots better. These improvements have been done for years and are nothing new. But why would they sell the Indy with this construction increasing the cost drastically when 90+% of there customers are never going to need the upgrades displayed in this video?
@@joe_ferreirabecause not using real leather is a rip off for that price bracket lol
I'm sure one of the vendors asked, they'd put in a special order for it. I've seen smooth chamois, 403 CXL Indys with a lug sole, CXL with a commando sole, 405s with a 360 split welt and commando sole, CXL Indys with a 270 welt and wedge soles, different suedes and such. I'd love to see a 405 with a lug sole from one of the shops, but there's still the 404 Kudu Indy too.
No they laughing as they swim through there money like scrooge Mcduck .
They'll do it for $1k a pair. Lol
One of the most badass mods I’ve seen for some Indys. You could do anything in those boots now.
Another amazing idea! Great job guys. More companies should offer this. I’ll be taking my new unworn Alden Indy’s to my cobbler with this link to have this exact build done.
Alden should be ashamed to charge $700 for that
THIS.
Everyone else should be ashamed for paying $700.
F-n unions
@@dasenuff Moron.
$800 now. ffs.
I wonder if some of the wide range of farriers hoof knives may help with the trimming? Just a thought.
I feel like you could take a Thursday Diplomat, and make a “knock off” version of this exact boot!!!
Bro. You guys have made my dream boot. I guess the only changes I’d make is give it a split sole
Awesome video. So much fun to see you work, especially given the craftsmanship and seeing you elevate the materials and techniques.
The Arctic Grip sole was a surprising choice. I mean, the lo-pro lugs and winter traction totally make sense, but the harder rubber seems less suited to all-terrain pursuits than say the Megagrip or V100 White X. Also if the goal is to make a grippy shoe for adventures that one could also wear in the classroom, a sole warned to scratch indoor surfaces, like the Arctic Grip, is a tough sell. BUT I’m definitely no expert and this shoe is dope no matter the outsole.
Guys, that is hands down SO MUCH BETTER! Love it! Nice job. Love you guys. Keep um coming please!
Unbelievable beautiful work true craftsmanship. Well done, love to find this boot on the market. Cheers...
4:41 the drifter 1 was FANTASTIC. I don't need more boots...but I might have to get drifter 2.
Heel stack just beautiful, well done.
Almost perfect, except I would have stitched down the midsole and not also the outsole. I prefer the option of just pulling off the outsole when wornt out, and gluing on a new one, instead of having to cut the threads every time a new outsole is needed. Plus, having those threads protected from the harsh terrain is a great advantage. It's why Hanwag does it that way.
yes + some nails or screws! an other nice option for maximum durability is to stitch the midsole to the welt and don't cut it flush to the welt edge but protruting a bit and then stitch the outsole only to the midsole. This also protects the softer welt leather from wear! thats also how white kloud does it
I looked up the hanwag, pretty underwhelming. Looks like Nikes crossed with la sportiva.
@@jimmylarge1148 ^^true. pretty ugly. but i saw they also have some norwegian welted models. and the point was the possibility to resole without cutting seams and taking the whole heel off every time. you get more wear out of this because you don't have to perforate the welt, each time your rubber outsole is worn out. i am more of a halfsole fan anyway. looks better imo, is more repairable and a leather heel construction is more durable without the layer of rubber in between.
What a great improvement. Those would be some awesome boots to have!
It’s incredible that of all the shoemaking channels I follow,this is the only one that shows even just a glimpse on how to do a decent storm welt/Norwegian welt.
search for "crazy about shoes norwegian welt". its a very detailed shoemaking channel
That was an extremely satisfying video. THIS is what Alden should be selling and it's the only way I'd be willing to buy a pair at their asking price.
Looks good, keeping the sleek profile while adding some key improvements. Just lovely
I’ll pay for these boots!!! Love the build.
Shouldn’t you add some fabric between the leather layers so it doesn’t squeak?
This video is so soothing to watch! Thank you 👍
Great project! I really like the Alden look. Interesting to see the Storm Welt.
Really liked a few of the modifications that you guys made to the shoe - in particularly the insole/midsole and heel block.
Having said that, I would have wanted you to keep the original sole and rubber heel profile. The “massive” rubber soles makes the shoes look somewhat different to the originals.
14:39
I could be wrong here, but it looks like that gusset isn't fully sewn together in the bottom corners. Doesn't that kind of negate the whole idea of having them sealed with a gusset tongue?
Very nice! I’ve never had an issue with the leather shank on my Indy boots, I thought it was interesting that you changed it out.
Seriously awesome! Way more than I was expecting you to do. Channeled insole and gusset tongue!! When is the pre order!?
I could barely tell the difference. Great work!
Amazing modifications! Love the look of the 360 welt.
I like the idea of gusseted toung and channelled insole. Good build
Boy, the changes look subtle outside but really added significant impact to the boots
Excellent Craftsmanship. Excellent Segment. Wish I can Purchase 2 pairs - Brown and Black.
Wow! Keeps the look almost exactly, but 100% higher quality! I'd buy that!
Was the filler that replaced the cork a full grain leather? I would assume so. It just looked weird but it may have been roughed for the glue already.
Someone could rebuild and resell Indy Boots, and make a fortune.
Is the upper leather really that good to warrant replacing everything else?
Avoiding metal detector going of with Carbon.. but then adding Nails😅. But i love your stuff
They look fantastic. I wonder why you went with vibram arctic grip through. The ultra soft rubber wears through pretty quick. One of their work boot soles like olympia or fire and ice is 80 percent as good as arctic grip and much harder wearing.
In my experience, very few boots have wear in the front and mid soles. Its always the heels that are going to pronate,stretch and wear down because people put a lot of pressure there especially if they’ve high arches. That’s the one that usually gets replaced first.
Rose Anvil boot videos never disappoint!
Gorgeous work! A true craftsman
Why all the hate for Neocork? It’s my favorite sole. I just did a week long hike in Northern California in my Indy’s and didn’t slip once in rocks or sand or pine needles. I’m wearing them now and hate taking them off. In my experience with several different Aldens, the right size makes them the most comfortable shoe, but a little too long, and it feels right, but loses all the magic. It took me a lot of different lengths and widths, but I get it now, and wouldn’t change a thing on my Indys.
Because these folks don't actually seem to understand what the Indy boot is. They, and all the commenters want it to be built like a White's boot and that's not what it's trying to be. I think they kind of ruined the boot with this build to be honest. The neocork outsole is actually pretty fantastic. I have some of these overbuilt rugged boots, but I also have a pair of Indys and I would not like them more if they were built like a White's or Nick's boot. Only thing I'd change on them would be to put in a proper leather heel stack and midsole. Other that they're fine.
Fantastic craftsmanship 👍 👌 👏
Nice video? I’ve had my Alden 405s for a couple of months now. I love them as they are. I’m a GenZer who grew up watching Indiana Jones movies. I’m also somewhat of an adventurer myself. Lived many adventures in the 22 years I served in the U.S. Marine Corps. Been in in countries around the world wearing “civilian attire.” I’m am confident that if I had to run, jump, pivot, fight, etc. in my Alden’s as they are, I would be able to do it. These are also the most comfortable boots I own. Second only in comfort to running sneakers.
I know it’s so much better constructed, but oy vey will that suck to break in with all that leather! Hopefully, Indy has fantastic cushy insoles. GREAT work!
Plus no Thomas hill which is vital for this boot (it is more of an orthopedic boot) and because of all the leather the shank is only making it worse to break in and pointless. They shouldn’t use one.
For me neo cork sole,steel shank(airport has you take off your shoes),standard eyelets(no speed hooks)leather over the inside., everything else was fine.
Looks so much better!
Apart from the gusset, general quality, and the eyelets, the finished product seems to be pretty similar in concept to J.Crew's take on the Indy boot. They call them the Kenton Pacer and they've even released versions with horween leather, akin to the Alden's.
I've had a pair for about a year and put several hundred miles on them on various terrain. Absolutely love them, second in comfort only to my Blundstones. The vibram soles provide great traction while being low profile enough that I get away with wearing them in the office and with a sport coat/casual tailoring. I'm sure the story inside is not as durable or high quality as the RA build here, but I must say I'm impressed with the boots I got on sale for less than $200 (with what seems to be a 360 degree GYW?)! I'd love to see Rose Anvil find a pair of these other Indy alternatives to see how they stack up at their relative discount price. It'd be good to see them stack up against the Weston's as well. Thanks for all y'all do, these are a great set of channels!
I need a pair in 121/2 e. Thanks guys. They’re sweet.
It’s nice to know where to get the tools, but I’m lost on where to get the leather stock.
Would love a rough cost estimate on stuff like this! Great video.
Also, if you want to ride this Indiana Jones train a bit longer, I would love to see you cut open a pair of Wested's Adventure boots. Wested made the Indiana Jones jackets for the films. They do a line of "close enough" Indiana Jones style boots for those of us who don't want to take out a loan for a new pair of Aldens. I'd love to know what's inside of those. Maybe think about doing a video on the Wested boots? Thanks!
Love the new and upgraded version.
Especially the two-toned gusset is beautiful.
I would rather have the Boot with eyelets which are just not as sharp as the ones, the Indy boot uses, but it looks good too how you‘ve built it :)
Keep this kind of content coming, it’s very enjoyable👍🏻
That carbon fiber shank sure looks like glass fiber.
I don't think they know what carbon fiber is.
@@samking4179what is carbon fiber and what is glass fiber? I genuinely have no idea.
@@noone-pg4lr glass fibres are silca glass, and carbon is pure carbon strands. Carbon fibre uses epoxy and fibreglass can use epoxy or a different polymer. In short similar, but different
Aren’t period correct! I mean this is where you would use leather shanks but the point here is to build a strong pair of boots not to make something that belongs In a museum. You want the boots to stand up to whatever life can dish out.
Would love to have a pair of these
I would love to see another rebuild using only materials and techniques that were available in 1936.
Nice job with the voice over, Brody!
Now these are the Aldens I would buy!
Nice work guys!
Taylor showed us some really nice cobbler work here. I wonder how much really would this type of treatment add to the cost of an Alden boot, and why not offer an "enhanced" version to the more discerning public (yes, I know they are few in number, but hearty). LOL I really enjoyed this one. Especially the great work on the gusseted tongue and the Norwegian welt.
Very nice work! I always wondered why a piece of rubber or leather wouldn't be preferred over cork!!!???
Make your on version so I can get my hands on them Great Job!!
Do you recommend or can you to change the color of the Alden Indy to get a less reddish brown and a more brown color. Beautiful modification by the way.
Or you could buy the 404 Indy with the lug sole already on it. 360 welt, Kudu leather, Vibram lug sole... Still, I'll be checking out the Alden vendors to see who puts in for a 405 lug sole Indy make up.
Don't think you should've used vegtan leather for filler even with other shoe/boot maker's they'll use a chrome tan or cxl like leather to fill. I'm sure Indy would want his feet to not be tired/sore. Even porons a really good filler, it seems to get bastardized but it's a good filler.
Damn, those are some nice looking boots. Well done!
they look amazing!
Wow. Weston had to hire a boot maker and a bunch of machinery, with all those youtubebucks, to get the boots he really wanted! That's some serious flex; not only are my boots custom, I bought the craftsman and his machines.
Personally I prefer steel shanks over carbon shanks as I have broken far more carbon shanks
😮
I’ve tried the Thursday Hero boots and they were insanely comfortable. Loved them and they looked like new despite the $35 I paid for them. So little wear even though they were used! 😊
So now you have a cobbler full time, great ❗ Can't wait to see more upgrades on "standard" boots. 👍🏻
And I thought you were cork addicts.
Amazing work!
Will you make this available to others?
I have a nice pair of Corcoran Jump boots that I'd love the same treatment to, that you could make a video about("How the Army should have made the jump boot")
What an upgrade … next level 👏
is the fiberglass shank better than a leather shank? Sending my boots into a cobbler to get re-crafted and im taking notes. lol
The only thing that bothers me about the builds is No One ever Burnishes the soles, they just leave them rough with looks like sloppy. It don't take much to run them on your sanders burnishing wheel and give the soles a nice polished look.
This is a copy of a comment I made on another of your videos:
I'm going to try to show you and others what you miss in your sort of reductive analysis of Alden.
First I'm in my 70s and have worn a lot of business shoes, casual shoes and boots throughout my life. Had my first pair of work boots when I was 8 yrs old... and many pairs since.
A boot is a system. Each part has a function in context with the rest in order to achieve the goals of the boot. The Indy boot is an orthopedic boot built on a patented orthopedic last, designed to keep your foot in a healthy anatomical position. It has a wide toe box giving space for bunions or other deformities, and it narrows down at the instep and heel to produce a tall, long and firm heel cup.
Other parts of the orthopedic system include the cork midsole, the well designed metal shank, and the Thomas heel.
Cork, which seems to be missing from many of your favored boots, is buoyant, elastic, and water resistant. It is also very durable. A cork footbed molds around your foot to give orthopedic support and comfort. It's one of the reasons Indy boots "break in" in a matter of days or a couple of weeks. And stay comfortable over the life of the boot. And let me reiterate, cork is very rugged and does not break down easily.
The Indy boot metal shank is made of tempered steel, properly contoured and triple ribbed for strength. Way to many boot makers use a thick piece of leather or wood for the shank. Simply cannot compete with a properly designed metal shank for arch support and long lasting comfort.
The Thomas heel (the curved front of the heel) adds rear and midfoot medial support. Good for any foot, but especially for people with excessively pronated feet.
This is why people love their Indy boots. Quick to break in, very supportive regardless of foot issues, and the orthopedic properties force you to walk correctly, making it possible to work all day in them very comfortably. And they are NOT overly heavy. Heavy boots are not good for your ankles, legs and lower back. That's why it's important for any boot maker to achieve the goals of the boot, at the least possible weight.
I have arthritis now, and no longer wear any shoes other than my two pair of Indy boots. They reduce significantly the pain in my feet, legs and back. Since I live in Portland, no one cares when I wear them to the Symphony.
Alden Indy Boots are better engineered than any other boot. Period.
This has me thinking about the possibility of someone modding those Wested Indys to have these specs and then selling them. I imagine they would end up coming out to a similar or lower price to the stock Aldens, and they'd be leagues ahead
Why was the original 3 rib shank not put back in?
Thanks for the links for the tools, but where do us non professionals get the materials? Lisa Sorrell has a lot but not everything.
Well done!
I'll take one in size 10 EE, thanks.
I love those boots! I want a pair! Can I ask anyone with experience of them - those vibram arctic soles - are they as hard wearing as a normal vibram sole if you use them all year round or are they maybe a softer rubber compound to make them more grippy in snow/ice?
😮🤤I live in Canada And I want those. Wow that vibram sole speak to me because regular vibram can be very slippery on ice or hard snow.
That’s a decided improvement!