Mike wczoraj rozebralem przekladnię aby wjąć pierscień do otworku wkręcałem gwintownik m5 i śrubokrętem wyskoczył oraz walka ze ślizgiem na duży płaski śrubokręt spawałem nakrętkę .super film pozdrawiam z POLAND.
FWIW, I got an old terminal screwdriver, heated up the end until it was red hot and then bent the last half inch until it was at a right angle to make a miniature "crowbar" especially for lifting snap-rings out of their slots. This was a few years ago, when I was working on a lot of pneumatic cylinders, which had the ends held in place with snap-rings, so it was worthwhile.
I wish I lived near you because I have a 300tdi which needs to be rebuilt and I'd love to have you show me how. It only needs new rings etc. The head has been machined ready to go
Hi Mike, a great vid as usual, another thing to check for are black pitting marks on the sector shaft, these are casting imperfections , i know only too well, mine was on a disco one v8, the lower part where the seal runs, luckily i was in a carpark when the shaft failed, STockton Hearth Forge, a metallurgist told me that the casting method had caused the flaw, but, adwest were ademant that it was the result of damage, but when the two parts were placed together you could see a casting hole poss caused by an impurity, I will Never Trust them again....
Mike, JP might be able to profile a grinding stone to restore that inner raceway, though if all the hardness thickness is lost it could be a fruitless exercise. We used to have our machine shop "re-grind" cam ring ball tracks in rotary hydraulic motors off fine coal centrifuges for reuse, it worked a treat and saved a lot of money for our customers, new replacement cam rings cost an arm and leg.
Great screwdriver Mike, I haven't seen one of those for a long time, I have a few tools from around the same period as that driver, I just cant face throwing them away even though I hardly ever use them now. Great video on how to know when to hold um, or fold um. Stay safe Mike. Yorkshire Rob.
Always a pleasure to learn a lot watching your videos and listening to your explanations with all detail. I just finished to change to Tbelt on my Defender 300Tdi and also had to resurface at the machine shop the water pump housing... there was a leak at the P gasket... also, steering box was covered in a mix of oil and dust... the problem was the hose made half with rubber and attached to the metal pipe section, the crimp failed and fixed temporarily with a normal but strong hose clip... It seems this steering box was refurbished, it has a red sticker saying that was tested at the work place or so... But anyway, and sorry for explain all that, what is the common problem with the steering boxes? when they start leaking down there, where the axis is attached to the pitman arm... everyone thinks is just the seals... Is, maybe, any of the bearings inside failing and then the axis moves from side to side stretching the seals?? Thanks in advance, Mike!
The seals get old and hard which causes them to leak if not that, then the selector shaft gets worn and gets a groove where the seal runs - bearings are pretty good
shaft repair is easy if you know someone doing crankshafts recharge with hot steel projection blastering , and grinding , there is specialists in US and Europe of course...
On open bearing bike headsets there's a press on crown race that fits on the fork, just wondering if there'd be anything commercialy available that you could use if the shaft is machined back. You can pick up complete hadsets around the £20 mark, a darn site cheaper than a new shaft.
Mike wczoraj rozebralem przekladnię aby wjąć pierscień do otworku wkręcałem gwintownik m5 i śrubokrętem wyskoczył oraz walka ze ślizgiem na duży płaski śrubokręt spawałem nakrętkę .super film pozdrawiam z POLAND.
FWIW, I got an old terminal screwdriver, heated up the end until it was red hot and then bent the last half inch until it was at a right angle to make a miniature "crowbar" especially for lifting snap-rings out of their slots.
This was a few years ago, when I was working on a lot of pneumatic cylinders, which had the ends held in place with snap-rings, so it was worthwhile.
I wish I lived near you because I have a 300tdi which needs to be rebuilt and I'd love to have you show me how.
It only needs new rings etc. The head has been machined ready to go
Hi Mike, a great vid as usual, another thing to check for are black pitting marks on the sector shaft, these are casting imperfections , i know only too well, mine was on a disco one v8, the lower part where the seal runs, luckily i was in a carpark when the shaft failed, STockton Hearth Forge, a metallurgist told me that the casting method had caused the flaw, but, adwest were ademant that it was the result of damage, but when the two parts were placed together you could see a casting hole poss caused by an impurity, I will Never Trust them again....
Mike, JP might be able to profile a grinding stone to restore that inner raceway, though if all the hardness thickness is lost it could be a fruitless exercise.
We used to have our machine shop "re-grind" cam ring ball tracks in rotary hydraulic motors off fine coal centrifuges for reuse, it worked a treat and saved a lot of money for our customers, new replacement cam rings cost an arm and leg.
Yes this is why I mentioned it at first and then changed my mind - steering = liability big time if it goes wrong!
Great screwdriver Mike, I haven't seen one of those for a long time, I have a few tools from around the same period as that driver, I just cant face throwing them away even though I hardly ever use them now. Great video on how to know when to hold um, or fold um. Stay safe Mike. Yorkshire Rob.
I think it is called a London pattern screwdriver
Very interesting 👍👍
Thanks for the visit
Always a pleasure to learn a lot watching your videos and listening to your explanations with all detail. I just finished to change to Tbelt on my Defender 300Tdi and also had to resurface at the machine shop the water pump housing... there was a leak at the P gasket... also, steering box was covered in a mix of oil and dust... the problem was the hose made half with rubber and attached to the metal pipe section, the crimp failed and fixed temporarily with a normal but strong hose clip... It seems this steering box was refurbished, it has a red sticker saying that was tested at the work place or so... But anyway, and sorry for explain all that, what is the common problem with the steering boxes? when they start leaking down there, where the axis is attached to the pitman arm... everyone thinks is just the seals... Is, maybe, any of the bearings inside failing and then the axis moves from side to side stretching the seals?? Thanks in advance, Mike!
The seals get old and hard which causes them to leak if not that, then the selector shaft gets worn and gets a groove where the seal runs - bearings are pretty good
shaft repair is easy if you know someone doing crankshafts recharge with hot steel projection blastering , and grinding , there is specialists in US and Europe of course...
Fascinating, thanks Mike. 👍🏻😊
Glad you enjoyed it
😊
Great to know 👍
Thanks for watching!
On open bearing bike headsets there's a press on crown race that fits on the fork, just wondering if there'd be anything commercialy available that you could use if the shaft is machined back. You can pick up complete hadsets around the £20 mark, a darn site cheaper than a new shaft.
I used the bearing from a bike head stock to fix a Suzuki steering box once
The one thing I will not do is adapt steering parts or brakes - too many issues with liability
Great video Mike, is it the same procedure for a six bolt?
Not sure - not seen one here
What size bolt is that your using to undue the steering box
Mike. Been there done it Mr. Jamieson ! Set me back AUD$800 for a re-build ? V.
If the selector and worm are good then it is worth spending time on - but the parts are so expensive
Turkiyeye gondermeniz mümkün mü
Hayır
My name is adwest😂
To get the monster ring out a little bit easier, drive the cylinder cover back in for 2 or 3mm.
That's what I did