Last shaft I did with that puller, two torches, and a 4ft breaker bar sheared the ears off the pitman arm. Being junk at that point I just cut a slit in the arm. Anyway, do you degrease the whole box again before paint?
I like very much your steering pump test bench. I'm thinking to improvise one of these, because I bought an used Adwest box that I was told it was good, but wish to test it before install it on the car to avoid remove it again for rebuild it later.
If you're watching this then I hope this will be of some help to you. If you're low pressure seals in your steering box are bad it is probably because the pressure is leaking past the high pressure seals. If you turn the wheel and fluid squirts out it's not your low pressure seals that are bad. You can replace them but they're going to fail again as every land Rover owner knows. Years ago I had a range Rover and bought a seal kit and redid it and it blew out a couple days later... The problem is in the design for the high pressure Teflon seals on the worm gear. Even if you get them new they are inferior quality and will always go bad. I posted a solution for this on a Land Rover forum years ago and the guy that sold the parts I used couldn't understand why he was getting orders from all over the world 🤣. I don't remember the part number so if you're steering gear is leaking and you're reading this this is what you will need to do to permanently fix it... First, get yourself a low pressure seal kit cuz you're going to need that to finish it but you won't have to buy another one after that. Disassemble the steering gear. It's not as hard as you think and as far as special tools I ended up buying a plumbing nut that fit the access plug then put The nut in a vise and set the gear on top and turned it. Once you have a completely disassembled you'll see three high pressure Teflon seals on the worm gear that go into the boar. These keep the high pressure from getting to the low pressure side. Take the bore and the worm gear with the seals on it to a hydraulic shop. I took mine to Caterpillar because they were close to where I worked. I'm sure you can go anywhere. They're going to need the measure The outside diameter for the bore as well as the inside diameter of your ring races. What we settled on to fix mine was a combination Teflon ring and o-ring used for a hydraulic piston. You remove the Teflon seals off the shaft, apply some automatic transmission fluid and slide your o-rings into each of the races. Then you slide the Teflon rings over them and pop them on top of the o-rings. You will have to do it one of the time, o-ring and then Teflon ring and then put it in the next. The o-ring makes it squishy enough that you can get them into the bore and provides constant pressure against the Teflon ring and The Teflon ring applies the pressure to the bore. The setup is actually the same as what's inside of a hydraulic piston only the added benefit is yours don't move, they don't go up and down they just turn in place so they will last forever. Then you just reassemble and put your low pressure seals in and you won't have any more leaks. Added bonus and mind you this was back in 2006, The o-ring and Teflon seal only cost $0.50 a set. The low pressure seal kit cost $75. If you do this you will never have another leak from your steering gear. If you let Land Rover fix it It will leak again within a few months. I think they redesigned the steering gear box in 2012 so this will work on any of them from the '60s up to 2012 as it was the same POS leaking steering box in all of their s***.
Hi, At about 7.3 into this video there’s a plug on top of the steering box with a straight screwdriver cut across. My box is leaking very lightly from there, can it just be removed re sealed without needing any adjustments afterwards? Thanks in advance.
There is a tiny grub screw locking that screwdriver slotted nut in place - however - the grub screw has a tiny nylon insert on the end to stop leaks - only the OEM kits have this screw in the bag. The screwdriver adjuster has an O ring on the outside. This nut controls the backlash / contact between the rack and the selector shaft - over tightening will make the box too tight, and the steering wheel will not fly back. Check the manual for correct adjustment - it can be done but be careful
I've got a weird problem with my steering box for the last 3 months, it started getting harder to steer in the morning until it's been for long drive then it's fine and normal for a few days but when left for a few days it leaks a bit (which is normal) for a Defender TD5 and I always check the level before going anywhere and it's usually fine but now it's gotten worse to steer left or right in both turn's and now with a bit of a notch on it, could it be what you've said about the bearings on the shaft of the steering box or trapped air not able to get out ? even today driving with it with the same distance normally it would of got better but no difference today in fact near none existent. What could be the problem?
I doubt it will be air as they are self bleeding to a point (there is a bleed screw on the very top to get the last bit of air out) Sounds like it may need a looking at. I did have experience of bad hoses in the past - they can deteriorate on the insides
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
You mentioned a racehorse , best name that got past the board that reject bad names was "Hoof Hearted " .
Fragile .... about as fragile as Nora Batty on a bad day lol
Last shaft I did with that puller, two torches, and a 4ft breaker bar sheared the ears off the pitman arm. Being junk at that point I just cut a slit in the arm. Anyway, do you degrease the whole box again before paint?
yes
I like very much your steering pump test bench. I'm thinking to improvise one of these, because I bought an used Adwest box that I was told it was good, but wish to test it before install it on the car to avoid remove it again for rebuild it later.
Great idea - that is why I made mine
Love your videos. What camera do you use when you make them? Thanks in advance!
Old Canon Vixia HF800 - obsolete now but tough as old boots - when I see them for sale used I buy them!
Fragile .... Landover part ....🙂😂😂🇻🇨
Sur les 6 land rover que j'ai eu aucun souci avec la direction, même pas mon range de 30 ans et plus de 520.000km.
Une façon de conduire ?
Peut-être - ou peut-être que votre climat est plus favorable aux Land Rover !
If you're watching this then I hope this will be of some help to you.
If you're low pressure seals in your steering box are bad it is probably because the pressure is leaking past the high pressure seals. If you turn the wheel and fluid squirts out it's not your low pressure seals that are bad. You can replace them but they're going to fail again as every land Rover owner knows.
Years ago I had a range Rover and bought a seal kit and redid it and it blew out a couple days later... The problem is in the design for the high pressure Teflon seals on the worm gear. Even if you get them new they are inferior quality and will always go bad. I posted a solution for this on a Land Rover forum years ago and the guy that sold the parts I used couldn't understand why he was getting orders from all over the world 🤣. I don't remember the part number so if you're steering gear is leaking and you're reading this this is what you will need to do to permanently fix it...
First, get yourself a low pressure seal kit cuz you're going to need that to finish it but you won't have to buy another one after that. Disassemble the steering gear. It's not as hard as you think and as far as special tools I ended up buying a plumbing nut that fit the access plug then put The nut in a vise and set the gear on top and turned it. Once you have a completely disassembled you'll see three high pressure Teflon seals on the worm gear that go into the boar. These keep the high pressure from getting to the low pressure side. Take the bore and the worm gear with the seals on it to a hydraulic shop. I took mine to Caterpillar because they were close to where I worked. I'm sure you can go anywhere. They're going to need the measure The outside diameter for the bore as well as the inside diameter of your ring races. What we settled on to fix mine was a combination Teflon ring and o-ring used for a hydraulic piston. You remove the Teflon seals off the shaft, apply some automatic transmission fluid and slide your o-rings into each of the races. Then you slide the Teflon rings over them and pop them on top of the o-rings. You will have to do it one of the time, o-ring and then Teflon ring and then put it in the next. The o-ring makes it squishy enough that you can get them into the bore and provides constant pressure against the Teflon ring and The Teflon ring applies the pressure to the bore. The setup is actually the same as what's inside of a hydraulic piston only the added benefit is yours don't move, they don't go up and down they just turn in place so they will last forever. Then you just reassemble and put your low pressure seals in and you won't have any more leaks. Added bonus and mind you this was back in 2006, The o-ring and Teflon seal only cost $0.50 a set. The low pressure seal kit cost $75. If you do this you will never have another leak from your steering gear. If you let Land Rover fix it It will leak again within a few months. I think they redesigned the steering gear box in 2012 so this will work on any of them from the '60s up to 2012 as it was the same POS leaking steering box in all of their s***.
Hi, At about 7.3 into this video there’s a plug on top of the steering box with a straight screwdriver cut across. My box is leaking very lightly from there, can it just be removed re sealed without needing any adjustments afterwards? Thanks in advance.
There is a tiny grub screw locking that screwdriver slotted nut in place - however - the grub screw has a tiny nylon insert on the end to stop leaks - only the OEM kits have this screw in the bag.
The screwdriver adjuster has an O ring on the outside.
This nut controls the backlash / contact between the rack and the selector shaft - over tightening will make the box too tight, and the steering wheel will not fly back. Check the manual for correct adjustment - it can be done but be careful
Thanks for your quick reply sounds a bit above my pay grade but will give it a go when it gets worse👍👍
If you do not fit the padded grub screw and just fit a regular you can damage the big screw
Probably leaking else where in the plumbing and running down to the box.
Probably!
Fragile - must be Italian.
- Christmas Story
I've got a weird problem with my steering box for the last 3 months, it started getting harder to steer in the morning until it's been for long drive then it's fine and normal for a few days but when left for a few days it leaks a bit (which is normal) for a Defender TD5 and I always check the level before going anywhere and it's usually fine but now it's gotten worse to steer left or right in both turn's and now with a bit of a notch on it, could it be what you've said about the bearings on the shaft of the steering box or trapped air not able to get out ? even today driving with it with the same distance normally it would of got better but no difference today in fact near none existent. What could be the problem?
I doubt it will be air as they are self bleeding to a point (there is a bleed screw on the very top to get the last bit of air out)
Sounds like it may need a looking at.
I did have experience of bad hoses in the past - they can deteriorate on the insides
Thanks, I'll have a look at the hoses on Saturday, thank you.🙂👍
🐨nice one m8 💂
Why do you keep saying selector shaft?
Because that is what it is called