Full synthetic vs conventional engine oil!!
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- Опубліковано 6 гру 2021
- Conventional oil is actually better than Full Synthetic!? I here this often & I was definitely shocked with the results of before and after.
Test of the best engine oil brand in a oil tournament in many videos so check it out.
Supertech oil is in today's test but we also review Amsoil signature series and Mobil1 extended performance, valvoline advanced full synthetic, high mileage oil, 5w20, 5w30, 10w30, European motor oil. Liqui moly top tec and motul.
#mechanic - Авто та транспорт
What did you expect? Or was this what you expected?
Wait! Try mineral vs synthetic with mixer for dough, which one the best i already know the result
What about synthetic blends?
Not sure what draining those graduated cylinders is supposed to prove. Viscosity is viscosity
Yes and viscosity says nothing about how well the oil lubricates the engine or how well it will withstand the stress.
May as well get synthetic, because it's just a buck more, unless your engine a quart in a few days or so. I change my oil when it get medium brown.
If it changed color in 500 miles, would you change it?
@@Olds_Pwr You bet your bippy!
@@fredzag2452that’s insanity
2 oil changes of Convetional every 3000 miles. Or. 1 oil change of synthetic every 6000
What’s better??
No clear weaner
Check out the full test. This is only 1 minute. Thanks for sharing your thoughts.
He didn't get it...lol
@@johnwagner4559🤣🤣🤣
but it’s important what happens at higher temperatures, up to 150C
It doesn't matter i use conventional oil and change twice as much. Much better than dirty full/100 synthetic.
I got a 2006 impala it says to use synthetic on the cap but my mechanic put regular in
@@jimtom4878 The difference are substantial, I have tried all expensive racing oils. Much better to change oil early using cheap oils that reach limit of expensive oils
@@wesdesigns1838 Never use racing oils as that is not meant for regular use. Racing oil evaporates quickly and does not offer much wear protection. They are meant for racing where they are expected to be changed every 500km
I use conventional in my 1993 Camry. Synthetic in the newer cars. Still going strong
looks like farm project on UA-cam i think u are stilling his content 😉
That was my exact thought also. This guy is a clown !
His tests mean absolutely nothing.
Yep, reported
Hi. I bought a brand new CF MOTO 450RS motorcycle and from new, gear changes were rough and it had vibrations. After the first service, the bike felt a lot worse, and engine was over heating sporadically. At 1400klm I realised when the dealer said that it was normal and I had taken the bike back 6 times, back to the dealer, I investigated the problem and found the dealer was filling the oil to below the empty level. When I toped up the oil, it took 750ml to get it to the full line. That's 1/3rd oil missing since new.
In the cf moto user manual it states that the oil should only be filled to below the low line, but in doesn't say if this when the bike is on the side stand or upright on a service stand. Turns out they were filling it up on the service stand in the upright, and those instructions were for the bike being on the side stand. So dealer was filling my bike and some others short of oil.
Engine now sounds rough compared to new bike and I am hearing a slight ratting sound. Can you please tell me, during this crucial run in period, what is the potential damage to the engine and gear box? I think during the crucial 1000klm run in period not having enough oil to meet even the bottom line of the low indicator mark would have caused damage, but dealer said no, it's o.k..
Im no automotive expert but id say the engine has definitely suffered severe damage and may possibly need a rebuild or even replacement if there wasn't enough oil during the break-in process
Which is the best engine oil to use for low cc bikes?
I think cold pour test is important with cold starts I have always thought synthetic doesn't end up in oil pan as much but doesn't synthetic not break down as fast over time and stays cleaner longer ? The protection seems about same in wear test . I saw that phillips 66 xc aviation oil 20w50 seems really viscus :))
Yes you are correct, synthetic holds up better longer. Thank you for your time.
Are the these tests to SAE standards?
Full synthetic means PAO. Semi synthetic means HC. Conventional means mineral. But do the manufacturers also use this definition?
I would like to see how Schaefers oil test out
I have video testing Schaeffer's oil.
I can tell you first hand with Schaefer's oil there is very little where I tested the puss oil that this guy tested and it caught on fire and there was a lot more wear than this video showed also with very little weight on the handle on the machine it would stall the motor. Now with Schaefer's I had a big huge timberjack guy and as big and strong as he was he barely could stop the machine with Schaefer's there's no fair way to compare Schaefer's or Royal purple to other lesser conventional oils they're not in the same league at all.
Not twice as much, but just a dollar more per quart, so yes it is worth your time
Wait! Try mineral vs synthetic with mixer for dough which one the best i already know the result
Both are Group 3 Hydrocracked.
Twice as much? Where? A 5-gal jug of Super Tech conventional costs $17, while the full syn costs only $22. Source: I bought a jug of full syn ST two days ago.
Quick question for anyone who may know which oil is best for a concrete mixer engine?
1. Full synthetic oil
2. Synthetic blend oil
3. Conventional/regular oil
I'd use Rotella T6 5W-40 and not worry about it. Gotta use HDEO oils when possible because they have double the anti-wear additives (zinc/phosphorous).
Pro Honda GN4 10w30
100% synthetic oil have greater life. You can change your oil less often.
Use Royal Purple
I still prefer conventional
Amsoil
Copycat