These engines pump full water from start up, as it's mixed with the exhaust relief....90 psi was what I got when I bought a new one in 1972..great motors
Just purchased a 1964 Evinrude 9.5 hp motor yesterday. Your video will come in handy as I get it back running. Thanks for sharing your time and knowledge.
I appreciate this. In addition to lots of valuable insight, this is the only video I've found that really tells and shows how to properly reassemble the shift linkage.
That’s not bad compression I got a 1969 6 hp Johnson with only 45 lbs each cylinder and it’s never failed me ever runs like a sewing machine thanks for the videos
I learn alot watching your videos. However, it would be helpful if you showed the lable of the lubricants, adhesives, and the box where the part number is shown long enough for me to stop the video and take a screenshot than i could use the screenshots to order everything. Thanks for all the knowledge you share. What type of oil did you use for the lower unit ?
I took one apart years ago and replaced the exhaust leg seal with a new old stock one and replaced the shift rod boot which was torn. Dang thing is still in pieces in my shop lol.
haha they must be the most complicated, cumbersome ancient design to work on, and ive been doing this for 15 years so you ain't alone my friend! tons of pictures, the service manual and some mechanical ability can go a long way, but then again is it worth it for maybe $350 you can sell it for tops? I say no.
@@ct1762 Yeah I’ll get to it someday but it’s definitely a low priority. For got to add most every bolt hole is filled with dirt dobber nests so that will make reassembling even more fun lol.
Great series on these 9.5 hp turtle motors. I just picked up a '67 Evinrude and am fixing what ails it. I ran into a puzzle when dropping the LU. It came off but the drive shaft did not. No pin in the water pump either otherwise I never would have got the LU off. I have the service manual but it is pretty slim. Short of a complete tear down, any suggests for how to get the shaft out would be appreciated.
Hey Brandon I have a 72 9.5 Johnson and I can't get the throttle to open to W.O position. I have tried every way I can think of to adjust the throttle position with the Timing fixture but still lack at least 1/4 turn of W.O. Do I need to move the timing plate? If so how do I time it? BTW I have probably watched and liked every OMC 5.5 to 15hp you have made plus more, Thank You for sharing your skill knowledge of these motors!
Great video, thank you so much. I will try to play to tune up my 9.5 HP. Is it possible to send the diagram of your tester to test the points please, thank you Brandon.
Hey Brandon faithful watcher here I have a problem with my 9.5 that's got me completely baffled, I've got new coils new points condensers spark plug wires, and have no spark whatsoever, actually got another Sierra tune up kit,cuz i thought perhaps one component might've been bad ,even changed the coils to some omc ones i had they omed out good,ibe rebuilt four magnetos in the past without incident,if you could give me some idea of what it might be, that'd be awesome
I have one of these 9.5 model 9R-73B. About how much was the rebuild doing it yourself and how much do you think a shop would cost to have it done? I live close to Nashville Tn. Ive never had or worked on an outboard before but have done quite a few other small engine repairs. I like doing all my own repairs that i can. I know im gonna have to do pretty much a total rebuild to it. Kill switch and other wires are rotted and the lower fluid was kinda milky when i checked it but the boat, trailer and everything was gave to me from a family friend. Also the first time i took lid off of it i knew i had a little mess! A carpenter or bumble bee got inside it guessing through pee hole and ripped all the foam from lid down and made a nest inside (there was a few dead ones inside)!
Before I started working on my outboards I’d get them worked on at a shop. My 1972 evinrude 9.5 cost $150 for a full carb rebuild and replacement and $300 for a new water pump and lower unit oil. If you are considering having yours full rebuilt at a shop carb job, new lower unit seals, ignition etc it will most likely cost way more than the engines worth
You don’t have to pull the flywheel to remove the carb just turn the throttle handle all the way down and the flat top flathead screw is right there I’m working on this same engine now and it takes 2 minutes to have the carb and carb plate off
Great video Brandon. I previously rebuilt my 9.5hp carb and it was in great condition like this one but the 2 round silver rivet pins holding the brass hinge that the float arm attaches to are not pressed firmly into the carb body, making the hinge a bit loose (has some play up & down & to the side). Strange to have found both pins sticking out slightly and was probably made like that somehow by mistake from factory. Do you have any suggestion as how I can best fix it? Can those two rivet pins be punched in further so the brass hinge sits tight against the body?
No issue with the actuall float and that's not the original one anymore. This was the two rounded head pins that hold the float holder bracket to the carb body
@@nickmav682 no i know what you mean its just ive never seen a newer one with loose tab... only ancient originals. i forgot but i think they upgraded them to the all-black foam ones at some point too
Use can use the bottle end to push oil into the lower unit, [It will seal the hole,] because the oil from the bottom pushes air out when it rises to the hole.
when taking of the impeller you mentioned there are a few ways to remove that seal underneath the impeller if you don’t have the 1960’s puller. Which videos are those ?
Great Video. I just got a 1969 9.5. It seems to run well enough. I want to start by replacing the impeller. Where is a good place to get parts for a 1969 Evenrude 9.5?
@@BrandonsGarage Thank You. If this 9.5 project goes well I may make a video about it. It won't be a how to video. You did that. I would like to reference your video as the best How to video.
hey Brandin, im changing my evinrude nine and a half from a long shaft to a short shaft. i cant find the standard drive shaft or the stadard shift rod. any suggestions ?
I have a 9.5 also but on the carb. where that plastic shield is the corner of the carb. is cracked at the metal part.What do I use to repair that? I was thinking JB Weld or if you had a better suggestion.thanks for the video very informative
Is the carb throat broken ? If so JB weld would work just fine , it doesn’t get hot there and there’s no real need for the plastic other then keeping mice out !
Are you able to do a little close up and show how the tilting mount mechanisms work? Mine seems to be busted somehow, but I'm not sure what to look for.
@@BrandonsGarage To tilt it up, I have to reach underneath and unlatch the "hook". and then to tilt it down I have to slightly lift and move the rounded bar that sets the tilt. I'm not able to do this from inside of the boat. My first boat and motor. It looks like there should be a way to unlatch this from the front of the motor, but I can't find a good picture or diagram of what it should look like so I don't know if I am missing parts or if it's just an adjustment I need to make.
@@SunBlaster09 Haven't made much effort in a few months since I figured it's a 50 year old motor so if it has some quirks it's fine. But seeing him adjust the trim in the video makes me want to look at it more closely.
Are you trying to turn it via the starter rope? it yes, put your hand on the flywheel and see if it turns. If no, are you in neutral? If not turning, remove spark plug to make sure they incorrect (or longer) ones weren't installed and hitting the pistons. (any rust on plugs?) If still not turning, remove the lower unit, and see if it turns. If it still doesn't turn, remove the flywheel and hope an ignition part blew up and is jamming something. If still no turning, remove cylinder head and see about rust. If rust found search for "Evinrude 9.5 HP Powerhead" on eBay. Install and enjoy :)
Now that you rescued another turtle top the world is great-full ! Lol ! You have great compressionin that outboard , I have a few and there average is around 55 and they run well also ! I’ve never pulled the ignition to remove the carb on one of those ! The fingers on your puller are to long , mine are smaller but I hardly ever use it because I replace the gasket anyways . I was told by a OMC engineer that they feel those outboards are there worst designed engine EVER ! But people love them ! I have 6hp that are more powerful then the turtle tops ! Why do people confuse a 9.5 with a 9.9 I’ll never know maybe wishful thinking ? I sell around 4 of those a year , they sell fast because of duck hunting around here , they are cheap and quiet and low profile plus easy to rope over that a kid could do it , maybe the wife also ! Lmao. It’s like they took the engine turned it sideways and said this looks good ! 😜
very true about the design being so complicated its almost like reading a gag reel. From the linkage setup to removing the clamshell to access broken or worn mounts, to getting the t stat housing out of the head its all an absolute nightmare. sweet motors when running, just cranky and underpowered. that down draft carb can give issues with how it taken in air at speed as well, a poor design with the rubber exhaust boot too.
Hey Brandon, When I disassembled my Johnson 9.5 the shaft is stuck in the powerhead. I have it suspended upside down and soaking in pb blaster but I have not had any luck. Do you happen to have any suggestions that might help me. Thanks in advance. Jim
Very similar, except its size and shape. It's small features are quite unique. But also, some of those throw out bearing pullers also use a slide hammer.
Pull the other one out (it will probably break too) and replace the shaft & screws. I believe they are punched so they do not come out. for a 1974 carb, its part number 0386168. Part number isnt listed on all 1980s engines.
I don't think its impossible to remove the carb without removing the fly-wheel. At least it wasn't with the version that I took off. Its a pain to do, but possible.
I have the same motor but when I took the cover off it was covered in black oil/ sut all over the motor is this an exhaust gasket problem or something worse? Thanks
I promise you can take the carb off without removing flywheel I've done it to mine like 100 times while fixing it.you have to fiddle with it but you can
These engines pump full water from start up, as it's mixed with the exhaust relief....90 psi was what I got when I bought a new one in 1972..great motors
Just purchased a 1964 Evinrude 9.5 hp motor yesterday. Your video will come in handy as I get it back running. Thanks for sharing your time and knowledge.
I appreciate this. In addition to lots of valuable insight, this is the only video I've found that really tells and shows how to properly reassemble the shift linkage.
The master of old evinrudes! Enjoyed it.
Wished he lived in Florida, I need him badly !
Just did a 69 9.5 myself and enjoyed seeing your work.. Thanks!
Sweet little motor. I can see the shake you mention in part two when you are running it in the tank.
That’s not bad compression I got a 1969 6 hp Johnson with only 45 lbs each cylinder and it’s never failed me ever runs like a sewing machine thanks for the videos
your gauge is off. these will not idle with compression that low
I will get another one all my other motors are between 80 and mid 90s a couple top 90s I got a dozen 3 1956 30hp Johnson love that motor thanks.
I learn alot watching your videos. However, it would be helpful if you showed the lable of the lubricants, adhesives, and the box where the part number is shown long enough for me to stop the video and take a screenshot than i could use the screenshots to order everything. Thanks for all the knowledge you share. What type of oil did you use for the lower unit ?
I took one apart years ago and replaced the exhaust leg seal with a new old stock one and replaced the shift rod boot which was torn. Dang thing is still in pieces in my shop lol.
Would you consider selling it? if so how much would you want for it?
haha they must be the most complicated, cumbersome ancient design to work on, and ive been doing this for 15 years so you ain't alone my friend! tons of pictures, the service manual and some mechanical ability can go a long way, but then again is it worth it for maybe $350 you can sell it for tops? I say no.
@@ct1762 Yeah I’ll get to it someday but it’s definitely a low priority. For got to add most every bolt hole is filled with dirt dobber nests so that will make reassembling even more fun lol.
Отличная техно реинкарнация старенького Евинруда !
Great series on these 9.5 hp turtle motors. I just picked up a '67 Evinrude and am fixing what ails it. I ran into a puzzle when dropping the LU. It came off but the drive shaft did not. No pin in the water pump either otherwise I never would have got the LU off. I have the service manual but it is pretty slim. Short of a complete tear down, any suggests for how to get the shaft out would be appreciated.
possible its rusted in there.
time, pressure, penetrating fluid. and maybe some heat is your only real option.
Thank you for the video,👍
Hey Brandon I have a 72 9.5 Johnson and I can't get the throttle to open to W.O position. I have tried every way I can think of to adjust the throttle position with the Timing fixture but still lack at least 1/4 turn of W.O. Do I need to move the timing plate? If so how do I time it? BTW I have probably watched and liked every OMC 5.5 to 15hp you have made plus more, Thank You for sharing your skill knowledge of these motors!
Ótimo video explicativo.
Por favor diga aonde voce comprou esse kit de vedação ?
Thank you! This has helped me tons.
Great video, thank you so much. I will try to play to tune up my 9.5 HP. Is it possible to send the diagram of your tester to test the points please, thank you Brandon.
It's a 1970. For some reason mine ran better/stronger than my 1973. It pushes my 12' aluminum fully loaded aded quite well.
Oil in from bottom just squeeze the bottle great video
Great Video Brandon! Is the new pump housing in that kit make of plastic, or the old pot metal?
@@BrandonsGarage what do you think of this kit: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B088VGRZMM/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A16MP6R2VB2XI3&psc=1
Hey Brandon faithful watcher here I have a problem with my 9.5 that's got me completely baffled, I've got new coils new points condensers spark plug wires, and have no spark whatsoever, actually got another Sierra tune up kit,cuz i thought perhaps one component might've been bad ,even changed the coils to some omc ones i had they omed out good,ibe rebuilt four magnetos in the past without incident,if you could give me some idea of what it might be, that'd be awesome
I have one of these 9.5 model 9R-73B. About how much was the rebuild doing it yourself and how much do you think a shop would cost to have it done? I live close to Nashville Tn. Ive never had or worked on an outboard before but have done quite a few other small engine repairs. I like doing all my own repairs that i can. I know im gonna have to do pretty much a total rebuild to it. Kill switch and other wires are rotted and the lower fluid was kinda milky when i checked it but the boat, trailer and everything was gave to me from a family friend. Also the first time i took lid off of it i knew i had a little mess! A carpenter or bumble bee got inside it guessing through pee hole and ripped all the foam from lid down and made a nest inside (there was a few dead ones inside)!
Before I started working on my outboards I’d get them worked on at a shop. My 1972 evinrude 9.5 cost $150 for a full carb rebuild and replacement and $300 for a new water pump and lower unit oil. If you are considering having yours full rebuilt at a shop carb job, new lower unit seals, ignition etc it will most likely cost way more than the engines worth
You don’t have to pull the flywheel to remove the carb just turn the throttle handle all the way down and the flat top flathead screw is right there I’m working on this same engine now and it takes 2 minutes to have the carb and carb plate off
Great video Brandon. I previously rebuilt my 9.5hp carb and it was in great condition like this one but the 2 round silver rivet pins holding the brass hinge that the float arm attaches to are not pressed firmly into the carb body, making the hinge a bit loose (has some play up & down & to the side). Strange to have found both pins sticking out slightly and was probably made like that somehow by mistake from factory. Do you have any suggestion as how I can best fix it? Can those two rivet pins be punched in further so the brass hinge sits tight against the body?
get a new one. the float shellac is now compromised, meaning it might not float correctly after injesting fuel.
@@ct1762 I managed to very gently tap those 2 pins in and they now hold the float hinge in firmly and have had no issues since.
No issue with the actuall float and that's not the original one anymore. This was the two rounded head pins that hold the float holder bracket to the carb body
@@nickmav682 no i know what you mean its just ive never seen a newer one with loose tab... only ancient originals. i forgot but i think they upgraded them to the all-black foam ones at some point too
Use can use the bottle end to push oil into the lower unit, [It will seal the hole,] because the oil from the bottom pushes air out when it rises to the hole.
Can you tell me where you got your spark checker with the alligator clip on it? Mine looks the same up to the clip. Thank you 😊
when taking of the impeller you mentioned there are a few ways to remove that seal underneath the impeller if you don’t have the 1960’s puller. Which videos are those ?
I know someone that has one and it runs fine until the cover is on , I am guessing it is that hose or a seal at the base of the engine.
Exhaust leak
Great Video. I just got a 1969 9.5. It seems to run well enough. I want to start by replacing the impeller. Where is a good place to get parts for a 1969 Evenrude 9.5?
marineengine.com or boats.net, however marinediscountparts on ebay has been quite good to me (if he has them)
@@BrandonsGarage Thank You. If this 9.5 project goes well I may make a video about it. It won't be a how to video. You did that. I would like to reference your video as the best How to video.
Why was it that some guys say that pin for the gearhead has to come out? Ive never had to take one out. Why would they want to do that?
I have no idea
Are you going to make a video on the green 70 horse Johnson?
I have a problem with mine over heating it's not the thermostat it works. I replaced the water pump. Not getting good flow though
hey Brandin, im changing my evinrude nine and a half from a long shaft to a short shaft. i cant find the standard drive shaft or the stadard shift rod. any suggestions ?
I have a 9.5 also but on the carb. where that plastic shield is the corner of the carb. is cracked at the metal part.What do I use to repair that? I was thinking JB Weld or if you had a better suggestion.thanks for the video very informative
Is the carb throat broken ? If so JB weld would work just fine , it doesn’t get hot there and there’s no real need for the plastic other then keeping mice out !
Are you able to do a little close up and show how the tilting mount
mechanisms work? Mine seems to be busted somehow, but I'm not sure what to look for.
well, what problems are you having.
@@BrandonsGarage To tilt it up, I have to reach underneath and unlatch the "hook". and then to tilt it down I have to slightly lift and move the rounded bar that sets the tilt. I'm not able to do this from inside of the boat. My first boat and motor. It looks like there should be a way to unlatch this from the front of the motor, but I can't find a good picture or diagram of what it should look like so I don't know if I am missing parts or if it's just an adjustment I need to make.
Were you able to figure this out?
@@SunBlaster09 Haven't made much effort in a few months since I figured it's a 50 year old motor so if it has some quirks it's fine. But seeing him adjust the trim in the video makes me want to look at it more closely.
The engine gearshift has to be in forward to be able to tilt it freely.
how long does the carb dip last? does it clean for a long time?
Just purchased a 1965 9.5 and the flywheel will not turn. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks for the video.
Are you trying to turn it via the starter rope? it yes, put your hand on the flywheel and see if it turns.
If no, are you in neutral?
If not turning, remove spark plug to make sure they incorrect (or longer) ones weren't installed and hitting the pistons. (any rust on plugs?)
If still not turning, remove the lower unit, and see if it turns.
If it still doesn't turn, remove the flywheel and hope an ignition part blew up and is jamming something.
If still no turning, remove cylinder head and see about rust.
If rust found search for "Evinrude 9.5 HP Powerhead" on eBay.
Install and enjoy :)
@@BrandonsGarage
Brandon
Thank you for getting back to me. The fly wheel doesn't turn by hand while in neutral.
👍👍👍👍🔥
Now that you rescued another turtle top the world is great-full ! Lol ! You have great compressionin that outboard , I have a few and there average is around 55 and they run well also ! I’ve never pulled the ignition to remove the carb on one of those ! The fingers on your puller are to long , mine are smaller but I hardly ever use it because I replace the gasket anyways . I was told by a OMC engineer that they feel those outboards are there worst designed engine EVER ! But people love them ! I have 6hp that are more powerful then the turtle tops ! Why do people confuse a 9.5 with a 9.9 I’ll never know maybe wishful thinking ? I sell around 4 of those a year , they sell fast because of duck hunting around here , they are cheap and quiet and low profile plus easy to rope over that a kid could do it , maybe the wife also ! Lmao. It’s like they took the engine turned it sideways and said this looks good ! 😜
very true about the design being so complicated its almost like reading a gag reel. From the linkage setup to removing the clamshell to access broken or worn mounts, to getting the t stat housing out of the head its all an absolute nightmare. sweet motors when running, just cranky and underpowered. that down draft carb can give issues with how it taken in air at speed as well, a poor design with the rubber exhaust boot too.
been looking to get a cherry 9.5 for a while..
Great video
I just bought this exact motor and wanted to know can you use it in saltwater?
Sure can, just flush it good when done.
Hey Brandon, When I disassembled my Johnson 9.5 the shaft is stuck in the powerhead. I have it suspended upside down and soaking in pb blaster but I have not had any luck. Do you happen to have any suggestions that might help me. Thanks in advance. Jim
I could cross my fingers and hope you get it out.
@@BrandonsGarage dang. Thanks for the reply I'll keep after it.
@@BrandonsGarage or does that mean I might not come out?
That seal puller is all most the same as a throw out bearing remover except it uses a slide hammer
Very similar, except its size and shape. It's small features are quite unique.
But also, some of those throw out bearing pullers also use a slide hammer.
Where did you get the bolts that fit in the flywheel to pull it out
Need help with 68 twin sport shifter bushings and motor tilt cable adjustment.
Great Vides Brandon
How would you deal with a broken screw in a choke leaf rod for a evinrude 15hp carb?
Pull the other one out (it will probably break too)
and replace the shaft & screws.
I believe they are punched so they do not come out.
for a 1974 carb, its part number 0386168.
Part number isnt listed on all 1980s engines.
Hey for this motor what prop do you need for it like exact I have same motor
I don't think its impossible to remove the carb without removing the fly-wheel. At least it wasn't with the version that I took off. Its a pain to do, but possible.
Agreed. Never removed flywheel doing a carb service on mine. Still in service. 67 9.5 and a 1970 seaking shell
I feel like my timings off on my 1970 Johnson 9.5. I don't own one of those indicators, anything else I can do?
Try to use the flywheel, or use a feeler gauge to get it close.
@@BrandonsGarage thanks
I have the same motor but when I took the cover off it was covered in black oil/ sut all over the motor is this an exhaust gasket problem or something worse? Thanks
check rubber exhaust boot. notorious for cracking and letting in fumes.
Love it. Are you selling? 😃
probably
I have this motor and i got it running but it smokes alot so i shut it off immediately what could be the issue?
Smoke is normal, it's 2 cycle. It should be a mix of you can look up the ratio but it burns oil so smoke is normal.
Where can I get that $200 puller part
Make sure to check the timing on this one
naw it'll be fine
How did you adjust the timing?
I promise you can take the carb off without removing flywheel I've done it to mine like 100 times while fixing it.you have to fiddle with it but you can
Just plain nasty!
They must have made this one just to be hard to DIY
How much do you want for this motor
How much you got??
I don't know, where are you located?
@@BrandonsGarage Shreveport La.
When you do a correction, pause the video and narrate over it instead of adding the text
good vid. sound low you need a mic
This is the first hour of my time I have wasted with a “toilet bowl” motor in 30 years. I’ve have passed on the opportunity to do so many times..
Same here! only it turns out to be much worse. Stay tuned for the part 2 video I'm uploading now!
Evinrude 9.5
Correct
When you blow out a finger on a glove, change it tight ar$e
Once you get in the zone its easy to look past it.
This guy has no clue
agreed
Too many commercials