Ten times easier if you take the tube loose at the bottom first and then remove the two screws holding the bracket plate - 5/16" socket. Pull the whole works out and work on it on the bench. Leave the tube slightly loose at the top and replace the bracket. Connect the tube at the bottom and tighten the top and bottom fittings. Lot easier than trying to loosen that tube fitting at the top when you have to work between the fan and the front of the engine.
My dude - thank you so much for the time you too to make this video. It made the entire process very easy and stress free for me. God bless you brother and please keep 7.3 powerstroke videos coming!
A very helpful video. If I can suggest something it would be to use brake cleaner to clean the tube and don’t put any wire inside the tube. Also the wrench size for the bracket tube fitting is 9/16, the tube nut is 5/8 and the sensor is 1 inch. Hope that helps.
I just did this job. I propose not removing the tube at all. Just remove the sensor , then ream the tube in place. My truck has dual alternators and tube removal was extremely difficult as I had to bend the tube in order to get it out from behind the lower alternator bracket. That being said, reinstallation of a bent tube lead to alignment problems. My tube was completely plugged, but only at the very top, including the fitting and the sensor. The bottom 98% of the tube was completely clear. I figure the exhaust gasses condense as it cools off far from the source of heat( manifold). Good luck!
Just cleaned mine yesterday, you should have started the truck before you reconnected the tube to the manifold, the crud that you pushed into the manifold just got blown back into the tube.
I have discovered your videos recently and appreciate all that you have made for us to watch. I have followed you in many of the mods i am making and planning to my own 2002 F350 7.3
Can I unplug the sensor to see if it improves before taking it all apart? I'm having an issue where my ebp is very low and believe the map sensor is giving me 0 boost. When I Unplug the Map sensor I get boost. Already installed a new Motorcraft map sensor and same issue. Maybe it's the ebp
Hey nick, would you happen to know why my EBP sensor reading won’t change? It’s stuck at 29, my 02 f350 7.3 has a new sensor and EBP tube. Stage 2 turbo with EBPV pedestal delete and has SPOOLOGIC GTP38 Exhaust Back Pressure Valve Terminator at the pig tail.
BEWARE!! This is not a risk free job, as soon as I tried to turn my deep socket to disconnect sensor from bracket, the bottom part of sensor that screws into bracket snapped off inside bracket and was impossible to extract. Had to remove bracket and order a new sensor AND bracket, so now I lost my truck for 4 days and 75 bucks because I tried to do this. You have been warned...
I'm confused why it was necessary to remove the pipe. Couldn't you do all that while it was installed? It's just the manifold the solvent will burn and blow out right?
I encourage most people to delete the valve completely, you can buy the 7.3 van housings and turbo pedestals that don't have the valve and oil feed lines. Carbon build up will eventually cause the valve to stick shut and you will have loss of flow/power, it also sounds terrible driving down the road when those things stick!
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Hey nick awesome videos you have made on the 7.3 I was hoping if you have any suggestions for what to try on my 2000 f350 7.3 mine has very low kms at 85000 my problem is after 20 minutes of running it will blow the 10 Amp fuse and take out the gauges I have replaced it with a new 1 and it blows right away, after I leave it for a while I can change it and it will be fine till it warms up but you have to drive it before it blows again. The overdrive is part of that circuit and I did replace the shifter
@@LemonySnicket-EUC Yes it was the Gem Module that mounts to the fuse box, I had a front windshield leak so it damaged the module. Changed it the other day and I’ve been driving it a lot with no issues. I’m so glad cause I really really on this truck in the winter for plowing & especially salting
The one in my 99 had rusted out by 275k. In temps under 35f I had NO power taking off from a stop while the engine was still warming up. Replacing it and the sensor fixed that.
So is it required to pull it off the manifold? Or can I just pull the sensor and spray a small amount of brake cleaner and then compressed air into it?
That's why you don't do dumb sh... Like that. Better to fill with carb cleaner and let set for a bit. If badly clogged, replace. These tubes are known for breaking by the way.
Crazy man! Our trucks have almost the same exact mileage and my exhaust tube was SOOOOOO much more clogged. It was 100% sealed shut on mine. Not to mention you're tube was shinier haha. I wonder if yours has been done once already in its life. I should pull the sensor off on mine and clean it now that I got the right tool for it. Also if some of your subs would just migrate my way that'd be great hahaha. Just kidding man! Keep up the great work! your channel is growing really well! I'm excited to see where this next year brings my channel.
First off I think I discovered your main problem you mentioned your gas mileage has dropped. The 7.3 is a diesel so that would be fuel mileage 😂! Yeah I know there's always one of us in every audience. I went to my local Ford dealership and bought a brand new tube, sensor and pigtail for $30 definitely worth it,than trying to clean and thread the old one back on
THEY SURE ARE. When I went to remove my old sensor the bottom half of it snapped off in bracket, so now I have to replace the sensor AND the bracket. Not happy.
Seafoam makes a penetrating oil that's a lot better than WD 40 it's not a good idea to hook a wire to a drill if that gets wounded up a breaks in side you're screwed
When you get to 150k millage mark on a 7.3., don't clean the EBP tube! CHANGE the thing. Not only is it probably clogging up but it is defiantly wearing thin. Personally I deleted my EBPV all together. Warmer weather has no need for this EBPV. I understand if you live in a cold environment. It will help the motor warm up quicker. If you do a delete, get a de-fuser to plug into your wiring harness where the sensor plugs in. This will keep the computer {PCM} from sending you a false code. Point to consider-- How much did all these cleaners, time and efforts, etc. cost vs the price of a new tube?
Ten times easier if you take the tube loose at the bottom first and then remove the two screws holding the bracket plate - 5/16" socket. Pull the whole works out and work on it on the bench. Leave the tube slightly loose at the top and replace the bracket. Connect the tube at the bottom and tighten the top and bottom fittings. Lot easier than trying to loosen that tube fitting at the top when you have to work between the fan and the front of the engine.
My dude - thank you so much for the time you too to make this video. It made the entire process very easy and stress free for me. God bless you brother and please keep 7.3 powerstroke videos coming!
Thank you appreciate it, more content coming yes
A very helpful video. If I can suggest something it would be to use brake cleaner to clean the tube and don’t put any wire inside the tube. Also the wrench size for the bracket tube fitting is 9/16, the tube nut is 5/8 and the sensor is 1 inch. Hope that helps.
I just did this job. I propose not removing the tube at all. Just remove the sensor , then ream the tube in place. My truck has dual alternators and tube removal was extremely difficult as I had to bend the tube in order to get it out from behind the lower alternator bracket. That being said, reinstallation of a bent tube lead to alignment problems. My tube was completely plugged, but only at the very top, including the fitting and the sensor. The bottom 98% of the tube was completely clear. I figure the exhaust gasses condense as it cools off far from the source of heat( manifold).
Good luck!
Just cleaned mine yesterday, you should have started the truck before you reconnected the tube to the manifold, the crud that you pushed into the manifold just got blown back into the tube.
Just a tip there is a catch lever that will hold the tensioner back while you work it’s on the back of the tensioners
Didn’t see that gotta look
FixItNick I found it when I had to replace my alternator and when I cleaned my ebps and tube.
I have discovered your videos recently and appreciate all that you have made for us to watch. I have followed you in many of the mods i am making and planning to my own 2002 F350 7.3
I remember when you were at less then a thousand subs now your at 68 thousand wow bro keep it up
How do you get the tube in and out?
Can I unplug the sensor to see if it improves before taking it all apart?
I'm having an issue where my ebp is very low and believe the map sensor is giving me 0 boost. When I Unplug the Map sensor I get boost. Already installed a new Motorcraft map sensor and same issue. Maybe it's the ebp
Hey nick, would you happen to know why my EBP sensor reading won’t change? It’s stuck at 29, my 02 f350 7.3 has a new sensor and EBP tube. Stage 2 turbo with EBPV pedestal delete and has SPOOLOGIC GTP38 Exhaust Back Pressure Valve Terminator at the pig tail.
BEWARE!! This is not a risk free job, as soon as I tried to turn my deep socket to disconnect sensor from bracket, the bottom part of sensor that screws into bracket snapped off inside bracket and was impossible to extract. Had to remove bracket and order a new sensor AND bracket, so now I lost my truck for 4 days and 75 bucks because I tried to do this. You have been warned...
we just paid $285 for the OEM sensor alone.... as super duties are super picky brand wise
Soak it in pb rust blaster, for a day or so.
You could have welded a nut onto it and screwed it off
I'm confused why it was necessary to remove the pipe. Couldn't you do all that while it was installed? It's just the manifold the solvent will burn and blow out right?
mine was completely blocked- might as well been depeted
Dual alternator on yours or no?
I encourage most people to delete the valve completely, you can buy the 7.3 van housings and turbo pedestals that don't have the valve and oil feed lines.
Carbon build up will eventually cause the valve to stick shut and you will have loss of flow/power, it also sounds terrible driving down the road when those things stick!
Please tell more about this van housing
@@Ghost3dOnline Fist time I have heard of this option, Thanks Nate, I'll check it out.
I would have just sprayed a good carb leaner through it since it wasn't that bad. WD40 does clean but very slow.
Awesome video. i replaced my line and the sensor just for some PM. a crows foot helped me a ton!
I’m impressed how much patience he’s got 🤦🏻♂️ I would of broke that tube in half and pull that wire out 😐
Craftsmen used to make open end ratchet wrench's i love my set.
Great video! I was wondering how bad it was to remove and cleaner it as well as what to use. Looks pretty easy.
Glad it helped
thanks for the video. I guess it's the same procedure for the OBS? When i'm cleaning thbe tube i gonna put in a diesel bath over night.
Had you noticed any difference after cleaned the tube?
Not really because it wasn’t that clogged at all
Awesome and very helpful video but I would recommend letting your viewers know what tools you’re using
Yea I try to, thought it was pretty obvious
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Hey nick awesome videos you have made on the 7.3 I was hoping if you have any suggestions for what to try on my 2000 f350 7.3 mine has very low kms at 85000 my problem is after 20 minutes of running it will blow the 10 Amp fuse and take out the gauges I have replaced it with a new 1 and it blows right away, after I leave it for a while I can change it and it will be fine till it warms up but you have to drive it before it blows again. The overdrive is part of that circuit and I did replace the shifter
Did you ever figure it out ?
@@LemonySnicket-EUC Yes it was the Gem Module that mounts to the fuse box, I had a front windshield leak so it damaged the module. Changed it the other day and I’ve been driving it a lot with no issues. I’m so glad cause I really really on this truck in the winter for plowing & especially salting
The sensor is easily damaged, I wouldn't clean it, just replace if it's that dirty.
Next month I hope to add coolant filter to the old 7.3
I love mine. Works great
Nice job and ever check out crow foot wrenches?
Mines compleatly broke off does it really need hooked up how important is it.
Yes helps improve mpg if not clogged and no hole
The one in my 99 had rusted out by 275k. In temps under 35f I had NO power taking off from a stop while the engine was still warming up. Replacing it and the sensor fixed that.
So is it required to pull it off the manifold? Or can I just pull the sensor and spray a small amount of brake cleaner and then compressed air into it?
Manifold don’t have to remove, just tube and sensor to clean them
@@FixItNick I know that, I just meant can I pull the sensor out and let that stuff go into the manifold?
Ryan Long ahh sorry misread, yes have to take off, otherwise it goes into the turbo
If not using brake cleaner can I leave the manifold side connected and just spray shop air into it?
@@tr3nt08 thats a great question, i think mine is plugged
When Ford made that truck the foil looked a 1000 times better
Trying to understand why Ford didn't just put the sensor directly on the exhaust manifold...
Possibly due to heat
@@FixItNick hmmm touche, not sure how much heat pressure sensors are able to take.
That's why you don't do dumb sh... Like that.
Better to fill with carb cleaner and let set for a bit. If badly clogged, replace. These tubes are known for breaking by the way.
What is the deal? Has California banned 7.3 powerstrokes?
Well done Nick despite the broken toe you carried on and did a great job. Filming was great too 👍👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏😉
Crazy man! Our trucks have almost the same exact mileage and my exhaust tube was SOOOOOO much more clogged. It was 100% sealed shut on mine. Not to mention you're tube was shinier haha. I wonder if yours has been done once already in its life. I should pull the sensor off on mine and clean it now that I got the right tool for it.
Also if some of your subs would just migrate my way that'd be great hahaha. Just kidding man! Keep up the great work! your channel is growing really well! I'm excited to see where this next year brings my channel.
Already migrated Joe 👍😉
I’m there too brother :) saw ur tube mess haha
@@FixItNick your fault then 😂
Helpful hint next time, pipe cleaners works the best.
I used weed whacker line last time I did this.
A coat hanger wire would help get it out
Gosh I hope this fixes my rough idle when ole Gertrude warms up.
Did it work
Did it ?
Wonder how oven cleaner works to clean the tube?
Wd40 or heavy duty engine cleaner works great with a wire
You might want to invest in stubby wrenches
You haven’t had a video on the mustang in a while
Good repair
First off I think I discovered your main problem you mentioned your gas mileage has dropped. The 7.3 is a diesel so that would be fuel mileage 😂! Yeah I know there's always one of us in every audience. I went to my local Ford dealership and bought a brand new tube, sensor and pigtail for $30 definitely worth it,than trying to clean and thread the old one back on
But this video is "how to clean". Not "how to replace." That's how Nick rolls.
Wrench sizes?
I still want to buy the Truck....
Dont bang the sensor they are sensitive I just bought all new sensor and tube
THEY SURE ARE. When I went to remove my old sensor the bottom half of it snapped off in bracket, so now I have to replace the sensor AND the bracket. Not happy.
Seafoam makes a penetrating oil that's a lot better than WD 40 it's not a good idea to hook a wire to a drill if that gets wounded up a breaks in side you're screwed
The electrical wire is not a good idea on using it on a drill
"I'm gonna delete the foil on this pipe" bruh ur cutting foil that's it lmao
Burrito
rifle bore snake
When you get to 150k millage mark on a 7.3., don't clean the EBP tube! CHANGE the thing. Not only is it probably clogging up but it is defiantly wearing thin. Personally I deleted my EBPV all together. Warmer weather has no need for this EBPV. I understand if you live in a cold environment. It will help the motor warm up quicker. If you do a delete, get a de-fuser to plug into your wiring harness where the sensor plugs in. This will keep the computer {PCM} from sending you a false code. Point to consider-- How much did all these cleaners, time and efforts, etc. cost vs the price of a new tube?
That thing is like brand new lol will last another 500k Mike’s in CA
Nice work (^^ゞ