FixitNicks Tools and Parts 1. Amazon Garage ►amzn.to/2QlHZdO 2. F350 List of Parts used: amzn.to/2JQ2MXo 3. Silverado List of Parts used: amzn.to/30qD7KJ 4. My Tool Box: amzn.to/2VzhaVQ 5. Battery Jumper: amzn.to/30wryBq 6. BlueDriver OBDII Scanner: amzn.to/2WaNlQ4 7. Milwaukee Brushless 3/8" Ratchet: amzn.to/2QanthL 📺Subscribe and hit the notification bell! ► bit.ly/2W4e5BN 🎥Things I use to make Video 2. DJI Osmo Pocket: amzn.to/2LUtOzr 3. Insta360 One X: amzn.to/2Yy64T2 4. Samsung 128GB Micro SD: amzn.to/2YwT9AE 5. iPhone 8 Plus 256GB: amzn.to/2LSvj16 6. iMovie or LumaFusion for editing (App Store) 🔥FixitNick Shirts and Merch ► bit.ly/2Vu8v7e FixitNick on Social: Facebook ► facebook.com/fixitnick81 Instagram ► instagram.com/fixitnick Email ► FixitNick81@yahoo.com
the original assembly has an insulator between the two wires, the center bolt of the air heater gets power when pcm needs to warm the air. the ground from the head is grounding the heater from behind the insulator ring - brass and ceramic ring - so together makes a closed circuit to heat element. therefore- you need the ground wire with a resister from riff to absorb the current when the pcm turns the circuit on. dont use a ground to the glowplug unit, that will just create a timed delay for a fire into the future. or just cut off the heating element and use original setup but you still need the resister wire to prevent a code because the pcm needs a grounded resistance to measure, thats what the heat element provides when its getting hot.
In a 1in space equal to the bolt size. It takes up 1.5 to1.96 cubic inches. This is a 30-35% reduction in the volume of a 1in section of a 2.5in radius pipe.
I removed mine on my first 7.3 and then it got unusually cold in my area, 12-13 degrees, happens once in a blue moon here. Truck gray smoked like crazy until it warmed up. Personally I didn't notice a difference in the way it ran. Just got me another 7.3, my third, I'll see if I can tell a difference this time around.
I agree, he hard grounded the output of the heater relay/solenoid. So one day when it is cool enough, that relay is going to pull in to heat intake air. When that happens it probably will blow fuse or burn the wire in half. But it could easily light his truck on fire.
I just disconnected the wiring and cut the heating element off then I screwed it back in. Done! You can't believe the difference in how much better the truck runs. It's a big restrictions.
@@tylerspurgeon1972 you won't see a code most likely until the temp drops to where the PCM turns on the circuit unless it's set to ping the heater element each time the engine is started as part of test cycle to tell the PCM it's good and ready for use
Check the wiring diagram on that. If I am not mistaken it's a direct current hot wire when the vehicle meets certain conditions. If that is true you could start a fire. Please double check.
You will have a problem when those conditions are met. It will be a direct short. What do you think the heater is ??? It is a big resistor.......You have been advised.....
@@FixItNick I get that it's never met but what if you decide to take your family on a road trip and it freezes over? I'm not worried about a fire, that's what fuses are for. I'm worried about wiring melting, pcm being fried etc. I would just hate to see that happen to such a nice build in progress
My trucks have 2 relay's, one is the glow plug the other is the AIH I just took all the wires off along with the grounds. According to what I've read that AIH is never on unless, it's below some ungodly low temp outside, you have to have the emergency brake applied, and some other things that make it hard too activate. It's ridiculous the steps for that plug to work that's why we delete them, the only reason for the AIH is cold weather start up to reduce smoke during warm up. Great video, keep em coming
@@emma67890 Thanks for the detailed description, but I never leave my truck running while I go into a store or to take a piss, so my AIH function will never be used.
I see that you ran the RPM up to redline and maybe over, if this is done all the Time it will fail. try not to run a 7.3 over 3000-3200 rpm. I try to stay under 3000. I broke a rocker pedestal by going over 3000 mostly go down the mountains pulling heavy. Now I have a Banks exhaust break, big help. I'm sure you only did this for the video. Nice job.
I did the delete on my truck now i have isues it burn the harness twice by the starter relay and the aih relay went bad too, that only happens when is -0
Can you get a no start if you don’t get the relay wire because of the function of the pcm because I have deleted it and never got the wire I rebuilt the motor but still learning how the wiring circuits work
Nick at 1930 you run the ground wire. I copied exactly what you did and fried my fusable link as well as the ground wire...then I looked again and you only have a single relay where I have 2, what did i do wrong
Does removing the air heater really give a noticeable difference in performance? You’d have to gain at least 12-15 horsepower to actually feel a difference.
Glow plug code could have been a loose connector on the glow plug module next to relay. It haunts me some times. Stupid CA emissions. I was thinking the riff raff cable had a resister in it to bring signal to ground when not energized. That is probably why there is a second wire on that terminal as a feedback to the computer. I feel once the relay engages, it will blow a fuse for that circuit, or a wiring harness if no fuse. Or I could totally be off off of my rocker. But I will be doing this delete. Who needs a heater in CA?
Hahahaha I am very glad I wasn't the only one that struggled to loosen the factory heater! I thought I was just super weak! . Also, the only thing I don't like about just running the stock cable to the ground is that then you are sending the full charging power through that cable to whatever you are grounding to. I would Imagine the point of the resistor is to take up the majority of that power output before grounding it out. I don't know how much power it actually sends (gotta be a decent amount to heat up the coil) or if it really matters. That's just me thinking out loud. Living where you do, you'll probably never hit the temperature conditions that it cycles on the heater anyways.
Probably 1% of 7.3s ever see that turn on, honestly probably doesn’t get crazy hot otherwise the stock cable would melt, not to mention whatever it’s grounded to gets just as hot if not hotter than the coil. Where you ground yours ?
@@FixItNick I see you saying it's fine to ground the hot wire but that's just asking for trouble. Wait until it turns on one day and fries your pcm and leaves you stranded in the middle of nowhere, is that worth it?
I'm really enjoying the channel brother I have the 97 F350 dually XLT period it's not intercooled so the turbo is a little easier to get to I'm doing a four inch down four inch exhaust straight pipe over the weekend so let's get to the truck and I've already done a ton of mods I used to have a F350 of the same year single axle one ton spring inside here ended up selling it what is your opinion on doing a lift with a wishbone suspension
Do not ground the wire from the relay without the resistor! My truck went up in smoke when I was in Canada. It's a timed smoke storm waiting for the right conditions to burn you. My mechanic made the mistake but not blaming anyone here as my mechanic never even seen this video. But you need the resistor or totally leave the wire out.
Hey Nic my 7.3 kinda feels like its bogging down when I pull my horse trailer what do you think it could be. I've got 38678 miles on it cold air system 5in exhaust boost cooler. Do you think its the Exhaust Back flow sensor
Why didn't you just remove the set screw in the delete? Use a bolt or stud put the ground back on and done? It would have looked like you never touched it. It is only a ground anyway.
He has a California truck, that solenoid will never turn on. There's like 8 or 9 different conditions that all have to be met before it will. The wire has to be connected so the gpm or gpr code isn't thrown by the pcm to pass smog. If it's really cold and you're worried about it you can always hit the brake pedal and it'll never activate.
Im getting 30 mpg on my 7.3 F250 we put on the 4 inch Aluminum exhaust and also airraid intake with 6 inch filter my truck has the 409 gears and weighs about 9720 on the scale plus I have a flat bed 8.5 foot plus I have an Edge Controler set on race I go from 0 to 60 in 3.7 seconds
If you are using the truck mpg sensor instead of calculating mpg, that is the reason you think you are getting 30mpg. Do a true calculation divide mileage by gallons to get accurate info. The tuner messes up your factory truck mpg meter. Calculation is only way to get accurate mpg numbers if tuner is used.
This guy doesn’t seem like he understands anything. It’s like watching a 16 year old installing a kit and trying to explain what it said on the packaging.
FixitNicks Tools and Parts
1. Amazon Garage ►amzn.to/2QlHZdO
2. F350 List of Parts used: amzn.to/2JQ2MXo
3. Silverado List of Parts used: amzn.to/30qD7KJ
4. My Tool Box: amzn.to/2VzhaVQ
5. Battery Jumper: amzn.to/30wryBq
6. BlueDriver OBDII Scanner: amzn.to/2WaNlQ4
7. Milwaukee Brushless 3/8" Ratchet: amzn.to/2QanthL
📺Subscribe and hit the notification bell! ► bit.ly/2W4e5BN
🎥Things I use to make Video
2. DJI Osmo Pocket: amzn.to/2LUtOzr
3. Insta360 One X: amzn.to/2Yy64T2
4. Samsung 128GB Micro SD: amzn.to/2YwT9AE
5. iPhone 8 Plus 256GB: amzn.to/2LSvj16
6. iMovie or LumaFusion for editing (App Store)
🔥FixitNick Shirts and Merch ► bit.ly/2Vu8v7e
FixitNick on Social:
Facebook ► facebook.com/fixitnick81
Instagram ► instagram.com/fixitnick
Email ► FixitNick81@yahoo.com
i know Im pretty off topic but do anyone know a good site to watch newly released tv shows online ?
@Samson Omar I would suggest flixzone. Just search on google for it :)
@Samson Omar I watch on Flixzone. Just search on google for it :)
the original assembly has an insulator between the two wires, the center bolt of the air heater gets power when pcm needs to warm the air. the ground from the head is grounding the heater from behind the insulator ring - brass and ceramic ring - so together makes a closed circuit to heat element. therefore- you need the ground wire with a resister from riff to absorb the current when the pcm turns the circuit on. dont use a ground to the glowplug unit, that will just create a timed delay for a fire into the future. or just cut off the heating element and use original setup but you still need the resister wire to prevent a code because the pcm needs a grounded resistance to measure, thats what the heat element provides when its getting hot.
In a 1in space equal to the bolt size. It takes up 1.5 to1.96 cubic inches. This is a 30-35% reduction in the volume of a 1in section of a 2.5in radius pipe.
It's actually 18% of the total intake volume
I removed mine on my first 7.3 and then it got unusually cold in my area, 12-13 degrees, happens once in a blue moon here. Truck gray smoked like crazy until it warmed up. Personally I didn't notice a difference in the way it ran.
Just got me another 7.3, my third, I'll see if I can tell a difference this time around.
I see a fire when mother nature says surprise RIP superduty
I agree, he hard grounded the output of the heater relay/solenoid. So one day when it is cool enough, that relay is going to pull in to heat intake air. When that happens it probably will blow fuse or burn the wire in half. But it could easily light his truck on fire.
Yeah, but not going to happen for him in California where he lives.
I just disconnected the wiring and cut the heating element off then I screwed it back in. Done! You can't believe the difference in how much better the truck runs. It's a big restrictions.
Did you have any codes? Thinking about doing this after seeing this comment
Same here, any codes and did you just reconnect the wires? Thanks
No codes came up.. I didn't reconnect the wires, .I put shrink tube with adhesive on the end and left it there. Just zip tied it out of the way.
@@XEGTDodgeMagnum Thanks!
@@tylerspurgeon1972 you won't see a code most likely until the temp drops to where the PCM turns on the circuit unless it's set to ping the heater element each time the engine is started as part of test cycle to tell the PCM it's good and ready for use
Check the wiring diagram on that. If I am not mistaken it's a direct current hot wire when the vehicle meets certain conditions. If that is true you could start a fire. Please double check.
It works different than like shorting a plus and minus wires
No it's the same thing, the minus wire it's ground... If it's cold out and that heater turns on you're gonna have a lot of fun!
You will have a problem when those conditions are met. It will be a direct short.
What do you think the heater is ??? It is a big resistor.......You have been advised.....
S D those Condition are NEVER met
@@FixItNick I get that it's never met but what if you decide to take your family on a road trip and it freezes over? I'm not worried about a fire, that's what fuses are for. I'm worried about wiring melting, pcm being fried etc. I would just hate to see that happen to such a nice build in progress
Hey Bud what Spring are you talking about? Thankyou
Love the spining in circles and 2 days into the future was some good editing
Lol sometimes weird stuff helps haha
It wasn't editing. He has time warping abilities
My trucks have 2 relay's, one is the glow plug the other is the AIH I just took all the wires off along with the grounds. According to what I've read that AIH is never on unless, it's below some ungodly low temp outside, you have to have the emergency brake applied, and some other things that make it hard too activate. It's ridiculous the steps for that plug to work that's why we delete them, the only reason for the AIH is cold weather start up to reduce smoke during warm up. Great video, keep em coming
Thank you, yea so much engineering for what lol
@@emma67890 Thanks for the detailed description, but I never leave my truck running while I go into a store or to take a piss, so my AIH function will never be used.
I see that you ran the RPM up to redline and maybe over, if this is done all the Time it will fail. try not to run a 7.3 over 3000-3200 rpm. I try to stay under 3000. I broke a rocker pedestal by going over 3000 mostly go down the mountains pulling heavy. Now I have a Banks exhaust break, big help. I'm sure you only did this for the video. Nice job.
I did the delete on my truck now i have isues it burn the harness twice by the starter relay and the aih relay went bad too, that only happens when is -0
Enjoy your videos thank you for the information and the time you took to make this excellent video. Houston Texas USA
Thank you
Can you get a no start if you don’t get the relay wire because of the function of the pcm because I have deleted it and never got the wire I rebuilt the motor but still learning how the wiring circuits work
Thanks for your very thorough explanation of things, it's helped a lot. You da man.
Nice video! Is it just a wire or is there a resistor in that jumper wire?
Just a wire, but I think RiffRaff sells one with resistor
How come your oil pressure fluctuates
Great content video! Thanks for all you do making your videos!
Thanks appreciate it
Nick at 1930 you run the ground wire. I copied exactly what you did and fried my fusable link as well as the ground wire...then I looked again and you only have a single relay where I have 2, what did i do wrong
Does removing the air heater really give a noticeable difference in performance? You’d have to gain at least 12-15 horsepower to actually feel a difference.
Did you watch the whole video ?
Yes, I did this mod and you can feel the difference driving the truck.
Glow plug code could have been a loose connector on the glow plug module next to relay. It haunts me some times. Stupid CA emissions. I was thinking the riff raff cable had a resister in it to bring signal to ground when not energized. That is probably why there is a second wire on that terminal as a feedback to the computer. I feel once the relay engages, it will blow a fuse for that circuit, or a wiring harness if no fuse. Or I could totally be off off of my rocker. But I will be doing this delete. Who needs a heater in CA?
Everything worked out good? Im in CA too worried about slipping by emissions bs
Righty mighty, lefty Lucie!, not automatic forward & reverse unless AI installed in drill motor new model.
Is the same proses for f5500 2000 diesel ??
Hi Nick... Interesting results, breathing makes bigger increases over higher speeds.... Great video buddy 👏👏👏👏👏
Yes I’m impressed, little things matter
Unfortunately I live in northern Ontario Canada so I won’t do this mod
Yea you might need that little heater if it gets crazy cold
FixItNick I am going to try and clean the exhaust pressure sensor tube
Hahahaha I am very glad I wasn't the only one that struggled to loosen the factory heater! I thought I was just super weak!
.
Also, the only thing I don't like about just running the stock cable to the ground is that then you are sending the full charging power through that cable to whatever you are grounding to. I would Imagine the point of the resistor is to take up the majority of that power output before grounding it out. I don't know how much power it actually sends (gotta be a decent amount to heat up the coil) or if it really matters. That's just me thinking out loud. Living where you do, you'll probably never hit the temperature conditions that it cycles on the heater anyways.
Probably 1% of 7.3s ever see that turn on, honestly probably doesn’t get crazy hot otherwise the stock cable would melt, not to mention whatever it’s grounded to gets just as hot if not hotter than the coil. Where you ground yours ?
@@FixItNick Yeah I am sure you will probably be fine. I ended up grounding mine to my AC bracket with the wire from RiffRaff for now.
@@FixItNick I see you saying it's fine to ground the hot wire but that's just asking for trouble. Wait until it turns on one day and fries your pcm and leaves you stranded in the middle of nowhere, is that worth it?
What's the difference in the two cables
The one from riffraff can be grounded
Since when did a 4r100 have 6 gears 🤔🤔
What you talking about? It’s a manual
hahaha def not the sharpest tool in the shed
@@andrewmcdonald8342 didn't know it was a manual asshat
It's a mod you can do.
I'm really enjoying the channel brother I have the 97 F350 dually XLT period it's not intercooled so the turbo is a little easier to get to I'm doing a four inch down four inch exhaust straight pipe over the weekend so let's get to the truck and I've already done a ton of mods I used to have a F350 of the same year single axle one ton spring inside here ended up selling it what is your opinion on doing a lift with a wishbone suspension
Grounding a hot wire with no load will start a fire. Use the cable.
How does 19.2 MPG sound to you? From Memphis to Houston 600 miles. 65 MPH! 2002 f350 7.3.
What tuner?
I get 300 miles on a full tank in my 2000 7.3. I need help!
I don’t get why you can’t just use the original block ground on the drivers side
It won’t reach from the coil
Do not ground the wire from the relay without the resistor! My truck went up in smoke when I was in Canada. It's a timed smoke storm waiting for the right conditions to burn you. My mechanic made the mistake but not blaming anyone here as my mechanic never even seen this video. But you need the resistor or totally leave the wire out.
Great video nick
Hey Nic my 7.3 kinda feels like its bogging down when I pull my horse trailer what do you think it could be. I've got 38678 miles on it cold air system 5in exhaust boost cooler. Do you think its the Exhaust Back flow sensor
It can be many things, in person someone has to check boots and clamps, turbo, fuel filter etc etc
Why didn't you just remove the set screw in the delete? Use a bolt or stud put the ground back on and done? It would have looked like you never touched it. It is only a ground anyway.
I like this better cleaner
I’m confused, it seems like your putting a ground wire from the positive (12V) side of the solenoid to ground. Won’t this short out?
The constant 12v post is one position clockwise from that post the wire is on. He's on the on/off switch for plugs/heater.
He has a California truck, that solenoid will never turn on. There's like 8 or 9 different conditions that all have to be met before it will. The wire has to be connected so the gpm or gpr code isn't thrown by the pcm to pass smog. If it's really cold and you're worried about it you can always hit the brake pedal and it'll never activate.
Only takes one time. Let's ground out this power wire for 2 minutes solid
What is the reason for doing this what are the gains
I showed the Gained results in performance
Deff get a hydra man. I get 17 mpg, same truck!
I have something that arrived, will do vid soon
What tune are u using?
Who's tune?
Lol at the dial up internet sound
Your engine has that heater for a reason, do you really need that much more power? I think you are just wrecking your motor with all your mods.
I don't think it gets cold enough where he lives in CA.
You can not ground that directly, under certain conditions that will short out! Better double check that would hate to see a fire. Just a heads up
No you can, it’s not like you are jumping + and - to ground
@Indians Auto it will be a crazy looking fire, probably with snow all over the ground and on the truck lol
the conditions don't happen for him in California.
I think its blocking 59 percent of the space
Not that much lol
GOOD MODIFICATION, I STILL WANT TO BUY YOUR TRUCK AND MAKE A KING RANCH CLONE WITH ALL NEW PARTS....
Thanks,
Im getting 30 mpg on my 7.3 F250 we put on the 4 inch Aluminum exhaust and also airraid intake with 6 inch filter my truck has the 409 gears and weighs about 9720 on the scale plus I have a flat bed 8.5 foot plus I have an Edge Controler set on race I go from 0 to 60 in 3.7 seconds
LOL RIGHT!!!
If you are using the truck mpg sensor instead of calculating mpg, that is the reason you think you are getting 30mpg. Do a true calculation divide mileage by gallons to get accurate info.
The tuner messes up your factory truck mpg meter. Calculation is only way to get accurate mpg numbers if tuner is used.
Achooooo...excuse me....ACHOOOOoooooo! Sorry, I'm allergic to bull shit.
Have you not heard of torque pro? You don't need to pay for anything lol
✌️😎
Thx
This guy doesn’t seem like he understands anything. It’s like watching a 16 year old installing a kit and trying to explain what it said on the packaging.
ربي يوفقك
What a waste of time for minuscule results
lol he did it in the time it probably takes you to rub one out, stupid fuckboy