How much oil does my used oil burner burn in 8 hours??
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- Опубліковано 18 січ 2024
- I show you how much oil I burn in an 8 hour day.
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#usedoilburner. #howmuchoilinusedoilburner. #DIYusedoilburner - Навчання та стиль
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*Full transparency. I am a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for me to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
*Disclaimer - Thank you for visiting my UA-cam channel. Please understand that the content on the DIY jim UA-cam channel is intended for informational purposes only. I make no warranties about the completeness, reliability and accuracy of this information. Any action you take upon the information posted on my UA-cam channel is strictly at your own risk, and I will not be liable for any losses and damages in connection with the use of my UA-cam channel.
Very nice setup! But is there a risk for producing super toxins such as dioxin while burning used motor oil?
Put a deflector in the stove a few inches above where the fire enters . The fire goes straight to the top and out the chimney. Deflecting it out towards the sides of the stove will get you more heat.
Thanks for the idea. I was planning on doing that. Thanks for watching
How does it look outside when it running?
@@kiwifulla3 I show that in a couple of the other videos. I thought I showed it in this one but maybe not.
@@DIYJIMYou did, at 13:00
@@Jell0zz thanks for helping I thought I showed it.
125,000 Btu/gal in waste oil.
a 1,000 square-foot workspace with 8-foot ceiling height means you’ll be heating 8,000 cubic feet of space. If the temperature outside is 30°F and you’d like it to be 70°F in your garage, the desired temperature change is 40°F. Those two numbers multiplied by .133 reveals you’ll need a little more than 42,500 BTUs per hour to keep your workspace at 70 degrees in in moderate USA temperature zones 1-4. One gallon of waste oil provides approx 3 hours of heat - unless the space is airtight and super insulated.
Thanks for the info and thanks for watching
Look into the metering pump for Chinese diesel heaters. I use a PWM to pulse the pump and I run with a filter. It burns super clean no smoke and I run a gallon a day 24hrs. I am running 50-50 diesel waste oil. Filter filter
I would like to see that setup. You should make a video on it. Thanks for watching
Would like to see your set up
I got about 40 gallons of old motor oil setting around in 5 gallon buckets- i need to build a burner like this,THANKS for posting your build and results.
welcome thanks for watching
"Now i know that fan doesnt look like a really good fan, but it was really cheap, so.." Quote of the month for me
Very impressive building though, and a free way to heat your home!
I just made a new exhaust today so I can burn it hotter and safer. Video will be out in a few weeks. Thanks for watching
Cancerogen
I suggest adding a ‘gentle’ fan across thewood stove. You’ll get more efficiency out of the stove and more warmth in the garage. Gentle air movement.
Great tip! Thanks for watching
Preferably over an aggressive fan 🤔 👌
They got these fans that you set on top of the stove and the heat generates electric current for the fans, google "Thermoelectric Fan for Wood Stove"
Secondary air suploied to the top of the flame might give a cleanet burn. Your double insulated flu pipe is stopping the heat entering the work shop, it's only really needed at the exit point upwards to stop the flu geting cold outside which would give down draught back wash.
I agree I have thought about changing it. All that insulated pipe was cheap. I got it used
Lol, I don't blame you for the cheap pipe but yeh it defeats the object altogether:) @@DIYJIM
Allowing an open flame from waste oil is going to allow harmful fumes due to the toxic heavy metals in waste oil. Recommend sealing up your burn chamber. Looks like a pretty slick setup. Would agree with other comments about deflecting the flame to retain heat as well. You could also get a fan device that harvests heat from the exhaust vent to maximize heat output. 👍
Thanks for watching and the ideas
I was thinking, wouldn’t it be easier to buy a purposed-built used oil heater? Then I looked at the prices. As long as it’s safe, do-it-yourself is the way to go! Nice build!
Thanks for watching, I’m sure the ones that you can buy are much safer.
To regulate oil flow I use a power steering pump driven by a wiper motor [geared right down] with a PWM controller, saves the worry regarding run-away when the oil thins as the ambient temperature rises. That would be easy enough to add a flame failure device and also an over temp thermostat to shut down if it does go out or overheat.
You should make a video of this explaining how you did that. Sounds like a great setup. Thanks for watching
@@DIYJIMwill do, give me a couple of weeks!
This is the first time I’ve seen your video. I subscribed. Nice work
Thanks for subscribing
Love it! Nice man!
Appreciate it! Thanks for watching
Impressive! On a side note, if you take a 50 ft coil of soft wall copper tubing ( 1/2" to 3/4) and wrap it around that stove exhaust pipe, and then blanket that with a special type of insulation, you could heat anti-freeze or water and have another heat exchanger in the system to capture some of that energy loss to the exhaust system. Just like a car engine loses a massive amount of the gasoline BTU's to the radiator in the form of heat energy, your system loses a massive amount of the oil's BTU equivalent straight up that exhaust pipe. It wouldn't surprise me if you could reduce your fuel consumption by 2/3rds. Which would reduce your maintenance. In theory! Lol
Good idea thanks for watching
Nice build. There is one thing that I would change. I would not have the oil burner outside of the former wood heater. What you may not realize is that the gases that come off of used motor oil can easily leach into your work space. These gases are likely carcinogenic / cancer causing. Maybe move the burner inside the stove or move stove outside and insulate with glass wool blanket and circulate air or water back to work space.
Thanks for the info, maybe I will try it inside one of these days
To achieve better efficiency, you can add a pipe to the air intake fan directly to outside the property. This will stop causing a negative pressure in the garage. As you see the fan is sucking air from inside the garage to burn and go outside, that spent air needs to get replaced cold air comes in from cracks of windows and power outlets.
Agree thanks for watching
We just subscribed thanks for the info good video
Thanks for the sub!
OMG~~ This is a serious fire and toxic fume hazard. ...retired fuels and home firbace tech. Be safe my friend.
thanks for watching
Just over a liter of oil an hour, that's pretty good.
Thanks for watching
Awesome video
Thanks! and thanks for watching
Lots of people suggesting a deflector, and obviously you are gonna try it eventually, instead of a metal deflector, something as simple as a arch of bricks would do something, and be easy to test.
I made one my video comes out I think next week. Thanks for watching
I like yoir content, but most of all I like U. saying God Bless!
Thank you, God is good. Every week maybe almost every day I thank God for my life. I am very blessed, glad I can make these videos to help others. Or at least for some entertainment.
Maybe a couple of peltier powered fans on top of the stove may increase the dispersal of heated air.
I like the forced air but doesn't that depend on the grid for power? Perhaps you could find a way to run one on dc for power outages. Overall, I find your setup very fuel efficient and a great way to heat your garage! Good going, keep up the good work.
Thanks for watching, it has been fun building it
Oh boy I bet that smells lovely outside!!!
thanks for watching
Toy trains!
I remember when some of the first waste oil furnaces came out it was on that principle. The idea is nothing new the kerosene heaters from years ago had a carb that regulated the flow and temperature.
thanks for watching
Great experiment
Thank you for watching
You could get better circulation of the heat if you put a "wood stove" fan on the top. They are heat powered and do a great job of moving the warm air around the room.
I did have a fan up by the ceiling. Thanks for the advice
Awesome
Good technique
Thanks for watching
Nice vid👍 I found adding stove fan or a low voltage fan directed at exhaust point really increas circulation
Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching
This is awesome! Just subscribed, thank you! Where did you get that badass cowboy hat?
Thanks for the sub! I bought my cowboy hat at a truck stop on the way to Lake Erie. Thanks for watching 🤠
I like your video. You seem like a nice fellow.
Thank you I try
Great video. THANK YOU
You are welcome!
useful info thanks
Thanks for watching
That's really good
Thanks
Very interesting! I'm wondering if you could use a device like a float bowl to control your oil flow? It seems that you have to watch it a lot when the oil warms. Some kind of temp variable flow control but mechanical in nature that matches oil viscosity changes? If I was a fabricator(other than my own stuff) I would send you a metal oil tank with a sight glass built into the side, but its good to see you work with what you have available for sure.
I probably will only use this about 4-5 times a year just too burn my old oil up and make some heat.
Just a thought of advice: keep a close eye on your chimney, and keep it cleaned often. You DO NOT want a chimney fire with that oil soot.
Second thought: Create a secondary burn in fire place. By this, I mean introducing heated oxygen into your exhaust to catalyze any unburned fuel. This is simple to do. Create a cold air line that gets heated by the flame then delivers the air just after the combustion process. Super heated oxygen will ignite any unburned fuel. You can experiment with copper tubing. Remember those green mosquito incense coils used in the old days? Install a copper coil to the ceiling of fire place, over the flame. The center of the coil is the outlet, the other end of the coil should draw cold air from outside. There are many options here. Simply leave the end of the copper tube open or cap off and drill small holes into the coil of the copper. Also, since your chimney above the rotor gets red hot, wrap a copper coil around that, then have it deliver the heated air into the center of the flame in the chimney, or at the roof of fireplace where the flame splashes.
This will serve two purposes: Getting a complete combustion of all the fuel and by-products will create more heat, and keep your chimney cleaner longer.
That is some good ideas. I wonder if I should have had my air intake on my stove open fully instead of closed. Thanks for the suggestions and long comment.
@@DIYJIM If you are getting a complete combustion, there will be no smoke. Your chimney outside the house is telling you something, which is what caught my attention and got me thinking.
Yes, open the air intake on stove. You want oxygen, hence the need for a blower on oil burners. Oil can burn just fine without forced air (if hot enough) but it smokes like a burning tire. The extra air from the blower is required to get enough oxygen into the combustion process to reduce the smoke (unburned fuel).
Final thought: If you can, create a cold air source for your stove that draws from the outside of the house. If you're not pulling air from the room/garage then you won't be drawing cold air in from outside (drafts). Nice talking with ya, keep the vids coming
I hope no one from your insurance company is watching 🤷♂️
agree thanks for watching
I think ALL oil burners are fascinating! It's a shame it smokes a little, I would have thought the secondary burn in the woodstove would have solved that but the burner is begging for more air. The rate of flow must have gone down to a drip though to use so little oil, at the rate you showed the burner would get extremely hot but you need more air to the burn chamber as Bob kelly suggests in the comments it should roar like a freight train for maximum efficiency. Mind you, you did say you didn't want it too hot? You could do away with the brake rotor and have the burner setup inside the stove if you are going to force air into it, that way everything is inside a big steel box and be quieter too. The sooty stuff left after the burn was not that bad though. When it burns decent it should look like that but maybe and a bit more heat will reduce the amount of ash substantially. It all depends on what your needs are though. Everybody has their own desires so every design is a good one if they are happy with it as long as it don't smoke. Just a drop more air will get rid of the smoke too. The big brake rotor is just making it harder to light and longer to warm up, all extra mass does is retain heat when it goes out, same as nuts and bolts. A thin plate would be better and anyway the stove itself will retain a mass of heat because it is big and bulky but won't interfere with the burn. You have a very clean setup too. I find if I use a mix of 10 oil to 1 part kerosene, or diesel, or paraffin, gets rid of most of the ash stuff left over, makes for easy lighting too. Great job by the way and I am sure you will add or take away things which you work out best to suit your own needs.
I have another video coming out next week maybe. I fix the air to work better. Thanks for watching and for all the tips.
Great I can't wait to see your next video , I await eagerly :)@@DIYJIM
I really like what you've done here - one thing I'm seeing is that it seems like you are losing a lot of heat to the exhaust. When you filmed it you can see the air warping because of the high temperature. I think it would be cool if you tried to re-capture some of that waste heat and use it inside, you could burn less fuel for the same performance that way.
Look up heat exchangers in traditional oil burning or condensing gas furnaces. You can buy an HVAC radiator for cheap or use a small vehicle radiator (maybe a motorcycle one) put it inside the exhaust flue to capture as much heat as possible from the exhaust gasses. Then have a radiator in the room somewhere with a fan to disperse the heat. Just run copper between the two and then seal the holes in the flue so no gasses enter the room.
Would be super interesting if you got a measurement of the exhaust temperature before and after to see how effective the whole thing was.
Sounds like a real interesting idea. Thanks for watching
you shouls use a piece of transparent hose attached to the top and bottom of your tank to have a better view and measurement of the oil level. in that way, the measure bar will no longer required and your measurements could be more precise. ;)
thanks for watching
I'd like to know what the temperature outside was? It would give a more "Natural" understanding of how well the heater worked to keep you garage warm
Sorry I really do not remember, I should have said that. Thanks for watching
Dont burn your garage down, wifey may not let you have another one....
agree thanks for watching
great little build !! -- would be interesting to know if a mix of waste motor oil and used cooking oil would have similar results ( maintain same burn rate & temps ))
cheers
Thanks for watching
Nice job on video how did you build fire box to stove very nice
I didn’t build the stove, I think it came from tractor supply.
The problem with opening the garage door is not so much the gap at the bottom of the door, it’s the gap at the top of the opening allowing the heat to escape. When the heat escapes from the top, it pulls the cold air in through the bottom.
Agree, thanks for watching
Add a heat exchanger to the flue and it will help pull more heat into the room.
Thanks for watching
I get way more ash than that! But my ash is orange. Having a real hard time designing a forced air feed burner that doesn't clog up after 5 hours.
thanks for watching
My oil burner uses about a quart every 150 miles. Keeps people off my bumper.
thanks for watching LOL
Should add a fan that runs off the heat of the stove to move the air around
Maybe I will get one
from what i can see, you need to run a hotter secondary combustion temperature so introduce air into the wood stove and shorten the stainless steel pipe thats turning cherry.....that heat needs to be in the fire brick area...my experiance comes from burning oil in a mosher type steam boiler aboard a 1919 steam yaught....but the brincipals of combustion are the same.
Thanks for the tip and thanks for watching
Like the clock with the thermometer.
Thanks
Great job. I run mine without a fan. Natural aspirated and works a bit hotter than this. Have measure the time and usage of oil yet. Will donsoon. Its on my videos if youd like to see.
I’ll have to check it out. Thanks for watching. I couldn’t find it.
You should definitely put a heat running fan on your stove to move air inside the garage.
Thanks for watching
It will help your inside temp if you add an fan to move the air around in side your garage
Thanks I have a fan above it at the ceiling
From my experience you need more air flow I have built a oil burner in my fireplace And I set it up to draw the air in with no fan and it Burns very well
Thanks for the advice and thanks for watching
Did a little math if this was my place burning it 24/7 for the roughly 6 months of winter we get here I'd burn damn near 1500 gallons holy cow
This is just to make some heat out of the oil that was sitting in my shed. It is all used oil some people heat like this and get all the oil for free. But you are correct it burns a lot. thanks for watching.
Put a fan over in the corner blowing towards the stove it'll make a world of difference
Thanks for the advice and thanks for watching
I've seen some other oil burning stoves that use a metal lattice or a pile of bolts welded together to increase surface area. Have you experimented with that?
I've always wanted to build a oil burner. Do you get any fumes?
No fumes, except a little when I light it. Never tried the bolt thing. Thanks for watching
I’m not sure I would trust that open burner. It seems to work very good. Nice job!! 16:47
Thanks for watching
I just looked up the used motor oil heaters on northern tools, and the prices are insane
Agree little crazy
I think you need about 2 times the air flow...... an oil fire should ROAR ! or Rumble when burning correctly (no smoke) I think most of those 8 hrs it was burning kind'a slow.... the flame was short most of the time. it's all kind'a relative so if it works the way you like it ...good for you ! I would add a bigger fan myself and seal up the burn pot top so you don't start getting fumes in the place..... good work.... now the problem is finding enough used oil to last the winter time.... a not so easy task !
good luck.
Thanks for the advice and thanks for watching.
I couldn't have said it better. Yeh for sure needs more air. Such a refreshing comment from you, unlike the comments idiots make saying you done this wrong or it's a fire risk or do it this way, no just straight honest experienced help.
Do you think having a cone for the oil to drop on would be better? More surface areas.
Maybe not sure thanks for watching
I dont know much about this stuff, but im curious is a catalyzer system could be used with this somehow.
sorry I really do not know thanks for watching
I'm curious if you used a electric blow heater with a thermostat would that be comparable to the oil usage costs.
That’s an idea, thanks for watching
Does this put out any kind of odor that fills the garage up or is it all the smell and everything just go right out the exhaust?
Most goes out the exhaust. Little smell at start up until it gets warmed up. Thanks for watching
Genuine question. Why is your burner below your stove instead of inside the stove like most ? Just curious maybe theres a reason i didnt think of
I can easily still burn wood if I want. Thanks for watching
@@DIYJIM okay right on! Thanks that makes sense now
Gallon of oil holds approximately 135000 btu's.
To raise that cu ft one deg is approximately 22000 btu's.
A little math will get you there.
Thanks for watching and for the tip
No external blower with speed control mounted on wall to push heat off the heater across the shop to help with heat distribution ?
I do have a fan at the ceiling. Thanks for watching
Get rid of that double wall pipe except where it goes thru and you'll retain and keep alot more heat inside that pipe just keeps and directs the heat in the pipe and out the the top lot of heat loss
I have thought of that. Thanks for watching
Just wondering if you filter your oil before you burn it
Yes just thru an old tee shirt.
you think one of those burner fans would get it any warmer in there?
Not sure but wait until you see my next video on this stove. I do not need it any hotter. I get the stove to close to 1000º F. I defiantly will not run it that hot but it can get hot if I want it to.
great, but remember to have an extinguisher to hand Mate
I have two one about 5 ft from me. Thanks for watching
Put a small fan blowing on the pipe from oil pot. Us that heat.
Good idea maybe I will next video. I have the perfect little fan
Old Jungers burners using fuel oil would burn a lot cleaner. You are wasting heat, and not burning everything up. You need more air, and more glowing surface. Might try using stainless steel pot scrubbers down in the fire pot to gasify the motor oil, and turn up the air. The pot scrubbers dipped in the oil need to glow to boil the oil right on the surface of the oil.
Thanks for watching. Do you have a video of what you are talking about? I would like to see it.
No, just a verbal description. I have 3/16" brass tubing I bent close to one end at a 90 degree. That part goes in the cap of the milk jug. I set the jug on the ground, then put the tube in it, and drill where it touches the tree. @@DIYJIM
Where’d you get them gloves?
I have two pairs of gloves on one pair are welding gloves from harbor freight and one I got when I was in the Army.
I would soak the pan with water first before cleaning it to avoid breathing that fine black dust
Good advice thanks
Is that just radiant heat with no distribution blower?
Yep I do have a fan up at the ceiling right above my wood burner
I wonder if putting angled holes along the top of the rotor would create a vortex and let it burn more efficiently.
Good question but my other view I change the air so it goes in a circle.
HOPE YOU HAVE FIRE INSURANCE !!!!! and nobody stops by to inspect your build.
Me too thanks for watching. I’m all done burning I just turned it into an aluminum melting furnace for outdoor.
Black smoke: too much fuel or not enough oxygen.
White smoke: too much oxygen or not enough fuel OR evaporated fuel fumes(very bad, explosive).
Also, not to sound too high on my horse, but I can run a cheap chinese diesel heater for 4 days continuously on 2 gallons of diesel with it on lowest setting.
I thought about trying one of those diesel heaters. I am just happy to get rid of some of my used oil. thanks for watching
@@DIYJIM Its a cool heater setup you got there dude, I think i'll build one to add to my winter arsenal. Thanks for the vids.
@@memadmax69 thanks
With all the holes in that brake Rotor are you getting many exhaust fumes in your Garage?
Nope not at all
@@DIYJIM that's good. Smart idea.👍
I bet if he had a CO monitor, the answer would be yes, a lot.
Neighbors burnt down shop with better setup than that. Flaming oil over filled containment and ran out onto floor.
I could see that would be bad. I don’t plan on using much and only when I am in my garage. Thanks for watching
Smaller feed tank than burn tank might help.
Burning oil? benzene exposure?
thanks for watching
👍👍👍
thanks for watching
At 8 gallons per day, where do you get that much used oil? And is there any way not to babysit the flow rate?
This was just an experiment for me. Thanks for watching
Should of just marked the fuel tank and useed a flashlight to see through it wouldnt of had to cut a hole but whatever works cool stove
Thanks for watching
Hope your insurance company never sees that.
Thanks for watching
How many CFM is your fan?
Really not sure maybe check the link in my description of one of my build videos.
This looks so not safe. I've had experience with waist oil burners in the past. They shot the flame into a thick fiberglass mating that lines the back wall of the burner. The mating deteriorated in one and burned a hole through the back of the unit and through the wall of the building.
Holy smokes thanks for the heads up. I don’t plan on burning super hot and maybe only few times a year to burn up my used oil. Thanks for watching
Carbon monoxide leaking?
No
I don't mind subscribing to someone who made a heater out of a dog bowl. Looks like some of the rednecky stuff that I do.
Thanks for subscribing
About that smoke: Would a Catalytic Combustor work there?
I think I need more air or more air at my flame. Thanks for watching
@@DIYJIM Also look into a thermal sand battery to store some of that heat. Good Video!
id leave some of that oil carbon in there it may make the container last longer the heat is eventually gonna degrade the metal pan
Thanks for watching and for the tip
I bet you made your dip stick on the outside of the gas can. The difference o. The first measurement was the thickness of the gas can itself plus what ever gap there is under the gas can.
Thanks for watching
The gas tank is a horrible setup with all respect there's like a gallon if not maybe a gallon and a half that you won't be able to ever use because you have your valve way too high on the tank unless it's playing like that so it can kind of collect the settlement but then eventually you're going to have to take it apart to clean it when you should just filter your used motor oil in the first place
I kind of want the settlement to go to the bottom. Also I really only burn it when I am in the garage. Thanks for watching
What kind of insurance coverage can you get with someone like this???
Thanks for watching
What about the fumes
Just a small amount when I first started it. thanks for watching
Yep, needs more air. This guy from aussieland seems to have gotten his burners down to a home garage science;
www.youtube.com/@glumpy10
Good or bad it's free.
Thanks for watching
I’m empresses
Thanks for watching