Rodger, I was born, and raised a plumber. My dad, my granddad, my uncles, brothers, and son, all plumbers. When I was a kid,(I'm 63 now.) my dad would make me go to seminars. One of those seminars was with the man that invented t tape.( I can't to this day remember his name.) It was an 8hr seminar, and he could have talked another 20hrs if we would have set there. You are exactly right. I used t tape a lot during my career on almost everything. Thank you for setting young plumbers straight.
I found it intersting and helpful that you started on the back side, wrapped about 1/2 turn, relieved the pressure on the tape, and then moved your finger to the front before continuing. That allowed you to hold the tape while wrapping over the starting point. Great tip! Thanks!
@@annewhitney3030 Yeppers, I agree. Also, when the writer uses the dreaded word, that, ad nauseum, to me the same as a speaker saying constantly saying "um",
Thank you so much for showing people how to do this properly. It continues to amaze me how many wrap the PTFE backwards, have half of it run out, and can’t figure out why they have leaks. Unfortunately, I’m not talking about homeowner here, I’m talking about professionals that should know better. Thanks again!!
I work with guys that have been in the trade for a long time who still apply Teflon the wrong way but I don’t have the heart to correct them, this is the first thing I teach apprentices
I tape and dope most fittings today. Blue monster tape and megaloc dope. All fittings made in China now with worn out dies. They don’t make fittings like years ago. Ward, Nibco, Stockham all made good fittings. Times sure have changed!
I always use pipe dope over teflon tape. It's a great tip. I had an old plumber pass on that trick to me and it has not let me down. All the fittings just glide together. The only time I ran into problems is on Rural Poly style fittings as it's a little too easy to over tighten them. I just go a little easy on them now. I also use plumbers pipe dope as a really weak locktite on bolts that I need access to regularly (eg, pto clutch on a tractor).
The way I had it explained to me was that the sealant or tape served two purposes. One it acts as a lubricant to allow the threads to go together smoother and further which is tighter on tapered threads. It also prevents Gaulling (sp). That is why even on brass or copper I will still use thread sealant of some sort. I had people tell me not to use sealant on brass because it is soft enough to seal. The other reason for using sealant is to fill the root of the threads. I know, if the threads are perfect there is no gap at the root of the threads. Those fitting either you can't find them or you can't afford them. You also have to think about the fact that at some time you may have to take that joint apart. Going back to the brass or copper you can get them to seal without sealant but your odds of taking it apart are going to be very slim. The method of using tape and dope is benificial if you overshoot tightening an elbow and have to back it off slightly (don't tell me you've never done because I will call you a liar to your face) the pipe dope will fill backing up better than tape alone.
Every man needs a couple of rolls of this in his EDC tool kit. Amongst other things, I have used it for ... Installing a valve on an inflatable mattress when I had no rubber glue Guaranteeing a perfect seal on a respirator filter converter Fixing a leak on the seals of a pump spray bottle .... and many many more things. Its basically the "gaffer tape" of gas and water problems.
When I saw the title I was skeptical, but you made a few good points I hadn't considered, particularly starting from the back to front. I've also heard certain types of tape for certain pipes and applications, but never saw a manufacturer reinforce that. I have come across and almost used dope which wasn't allowed on propane systems (pro dope I believe). It's also worth noting how much the quality of pipe varies these days, some pipe won't take a thread without chipping even with a brand new die. Seems like pipe made 40+ years ago was manufacturered to a higher quality standard. I've taken apart old systems and the threads were so good they probably didn't even need dope or tape. I personally prefer dope then tape just because it's less messy, but as you mentioned, it's a personal preference, neither way will leak. We once had a spider web in a section of pipe from storing material outside, thing was so strong it wouldn't let gas pass through it. Talk about a head scratching troubleshooting nightmare! Needless to say, I always check the inside of the pipe now!
Kyle and Danny no doubt about it. I worked for the gas utility in St Louis, Missouri for 35 years and today's steel pipe cannot hold a candle up against the old stuff. I will say the fittings made by JP Ward out of Pennsylvania and McDonald out of Iowa are still top notch ( far superior to the stuff made in China and Mexico).
Bob Y ward quality is starting to become suspect. My thing is I always told my helper I never get leaks on gas pipe, this year already I’ve got a sand hole in a 3/4” tee and 2 1”elbows that leaked. Needless to say I wasn’t happy. It broke my 11 year run without a leak on gas
@@joem5332 , nothing POs me more than when you do a perfect job and it doesn't hold a pressure test due to a sand hole ( and of course it is never near a union). 3 fittings in 6 months may not seem to be a lot to some people but when you go for years and install miles of fuel run without one bad fitting to you and I we know three is a lot.
Bob Y., couldn't agree with you more! Been in the industry most of My adult life and am noticing the difference between gas pipe and Fittings today are cheaper than hell. I take care of my threaders and dies but even with that the steel cuts differently than the pipe I used back " in the day", keep up The good work Rodger!
Good video. I swear by the blue monster PTFE tape I've even uses it on some threaded electrical fitting to protect from corrosion (nothing in direct contact with water just for future ease of dismantling). Keep a small triangle file in your tool bag/box for the occasional damaged thread on pipe. Trust me it will save you some headache.
Yellow PTFE, in the UK at least, specifically states on the wrapping that it isn't WRAS approved. Therefore, CANNOT be used on any water supplies (copper/plastic/steel). All fittings for use in water systems, have to be WRAS approved
yes he is american so we have to take into account the lower standards. roger is a fantastic plumber with great ethic, but usa's UPC as opposed to our NPC is significantly relaxed.
You wouldn’t think you’d need a video for applying Teflon tape but, I’ve met a bunch of plumbers that don’t even know which direction to role it. You should do a video about how to hold Channel Locks I’d say about half the people I’ve worked with through the years had no idea that it mattered which direction they faced when using to keep them from slipping
Bro but in all honesty all plumbing mechanics hate the way each other work and if you ask a master plumber a question each one will give u a different version of how something is done right lol
Even these videos don’t clearly show the correct way to install Teflon. I explain the way I learned and why. Never had to show the same person twice. That is the difference between showing and teaching
I'm an engineer. Teflon tape is only needed in the following situations: -Pipe threads are significantly damaged. The tape helps fill the severe pits and chips. -If the threads are straight cut and not tapered. -If you are joining pipes made of dissimilar metals. The tape will help slow (not prevent) galvanic corrosion in the threads. -If You can't get full thread engagement due to dimensional limitations, then it might help. Taper threaded pipe is designed to self seal. As the threads are being fully tightened, the threads slide past each other with so much force that they create a mechanical bond between the two surfaces. Pipe dope acts as a lubricant to aid in tightening the joints to achieve the correct amount of thread engagements. A pipe with undamaged threads that is leaking through the threads of a joint is a pipe that was not tightened enough when installed. The reason why that engineer told you to use pipe dope combined with teflon tape was because without the pipe dope acting as a lubricant, it is easy to make the mistake of thinking the joint is fully torqued when it is not. When you apply teflon tape to a tapered thread and then fully tighten it down, the threads cut through the tape to the point where metal to metal thread engagement is achieved. This creates the seal. If there is an imperfection on that surface, the teflon tape won't do anything to seal it. Applying teflon tape (especially teflon tape without pipe dope) can fool a plumber into thinking the joint has been fully tightened when it hasn't been. This is usually why a telfon taped joint can leak. Using hemp thread wound into the valleys with pipe dope (as they did before teflon tape was invented) is a superior way to seal threads. If there is an imperfection in the threads that does not seal completely, the hemp thread will absorb the water and expand into the imperfection creating that seal. I've never had a hemp thread+pipe dope joint leak regardless of thread condition. I've had a handful of teflon taped joints leak. Teflon tape is faster, but not really the correct method for anything other than straight threaded joints.
Here in Canada we leave the first 2 threads bare on gas piping. You touched on the reasoning, you don't want anything caught up in a reg. etc. Reference: B149.1-15 Code Book (Natural Gas & Propane) Section 6.9.6 My entire career I always T tape then dope. Leaks are extremely rare.
In the UK we are taught to leave the last couple of threads bare and to clean them so you can see that the thread is in to the right depth. Hear in Canada nobody cares what their joints look like
plumbing designer here. (Virginia DC Maryland area) the yellow is most likely based on international fuel gas code 401.5 and 404.17.3 401.5 requires yellow labels with black letters on them 404.17.3 requires tracer wire to be yellow more than likely people have interperated as yellow everywhere to make life simple.
Roger, there are a lot of Teflon tapes on the market in different shades and colors that will pass all the criteria for the gas industry but you must understand the color yellow is there to assure us the proper tape was used. So my question to you is if I hold up five different pipe nipples, one with dark blue tape , one with light blue tape, one with chartreuse tape, one with white tape and one with yellow tape and I want you to tell me which ones are approved for gas, how do you tell me without a lab test?
Clockwise on a digital watch is always left to right in the northern hemisphere and right to left in the southern but it may vary depending on which end of the pipe you're on and which direction us considered "up" in a given jurisdiction. In Australia, for example, up is down, left is right and right is wrong. Wrap the tape clockwise for standard pipe threads and anticlockwise for metric but always in the same direction as the Coriolis effect except in the typhoon season.
I’m a sprinkler fitter and I always dope the threads, but never have it too thick. My main goal is to have a light layer of dope inside the threads. Then 4 wraps of tape. Larger pipe I may add an extra wrap or 2 and put some dope on the outside. Sometimes I even dope the threads in the fitting on pipe sizes like 4”
Not a plumber, just needed help with replacing a shower head. This is helpful. I did it and the thing leaks. Now i know what i did wrong, fixing it when everyone gets up later.
yeah wrap the tape 3-4 times SAME DIRECTION as the showerhead will be tightened...should be clockwise if looking straight at the pipe end. if you wrap opposite way, the tape just bunches up and unravels when tightening the showerhead
I don't know what the code is but I've personally been told by an inspector that the tape or dope has to be yellow for gas fittings or he won't sign off. Maybe he's throwing his weight around, I don't know, but I need his signature and arguing with him isn't the way to get it.
it probably falls into the same reasoning we have different colored fuel containers. Realistically a gas, diesel and kerosene container are functionally the same but for safety standards someone decided to color code so no one mistakes them. Its dumb but id imagine this is similar and the tapes are all the same just different colors.
@@ah7027 that makes sense, and even just that alone I agree with. It is kind of dumb seeing as how most of the regular pipe dopes sold in my area say they can be used for natural gas but the inspector wants only yellow... yet the gas company uses green dope. Whatever. Yellow stuff works just fine and I'd rather keep it separate from the one I use on potable water anyway.
also, make sure you have teflon tape covering the first three threads of the pipe because those are the "sealing" threads! the rest of the threads are important but not as important as making sure you have adequate pipe dope and teflon tape on the first three threads. Great video, thank you roger. You're helping me be the best plumber i can be
Thank you, beyond your info, which I agree with, you have tied into the internet potential - tell me your knowledge, experience, that will move all of us ahead much faster than any time in the past!
When I was pursuing an apprenticeship in plumbing the occasions when we did use teflon tape and pipe dope we're similar to how you did it but some circumstances we just used the tape. The blue teflon you're using is awesome looking I would like to get some like that.
Most of the guidance I see is you start the tape from the smaller end of the tapered pipe You wrap 2 - 3 wraps at the small end of the pipe and then spiral wraps with overlap to the end of the thread We use a helium leak detector to verify the leak tightness of the joint. We can achieve joints with leaks less than 1 x 10-9 std.atm.cc-sec-1
I like Blue Monster tef tape and pipe dope. I do 3 wraps also followed with pipe dope. I have very few leaks. I used to use yellow tef tape for gas fittings until I snapped a water heater gas valve. From then on I use just pipe dope on gas fittings and always bubble test when I'm done.
The yellow tape is slightly thicker - which doesn't really matter much as you can simply use another wrap of the white to match - but the yellow also has some acid resistance because propane is slightly acidic. If you're working with NG it doesn't matter which one you use. Also I wish you'd covered when to use and when NOT to use tape/dope. I can't tell you how many times I've seen experienced licensed plumbers putting tape on the threads of compression fittings. I'm really baffled by the faucet/toilet/dishwasher supply lines that come with a cute little roll of teflon tape in the bag. Idiocy at its finest.
@@RogerWakefield yes, I have a leaky shower head and I see I threaded the end too far with extra tape thinking more is better. Going to scrape the threads too .
This is what was done in the old days, for brass fittings: with a pipe wrench you apply a few squeezes on the thread. The thread gets a small damage, which helps getting hold of the tape. You don't need the fiddling with one finger over the other as in 4:18. And there are (were?) also brass fittings that has these notches preformed.
I bought and used a few shark bites and noticed they don’t have the white insert anymore. Which was a relief to me because they get jammed up real easily if you don’t line it up perfectly.
I used the white teflon tape on a natural gas line in my house and within a month or so the tape had "liquified" and started leaking gas into the house. I bought the yellow tape and it's been sealed for about 3 months now. I don't know if the tapes are different or not, maybe my white tape was old, if teflon tape can get old. I'm just a homeowner, not a plumber or anything special.
I’ve been putting these water meters in these homes for a newly built subdivision. And had 2 back to back homes where the 1” inch tail pieces (brass) were leaking with the copper female sodder joints. Cranked on them too. Tape, dope, then tape didn’t matter. Plumber had to remove the old sodder put a deeper threaded one IN. Then it sealed. So my point is. Make sure you’re getting enough thread coverage and that sucker is going in quite a bit
Yes. You’re a fine speaker. My old shower head began leaking (“internally”, not where it screws in). I just bought a new shower head… I just removed the old head. There’s still (old, white) tape on the threads. I assume I need to remove that old tape before putting on the new tape. I have no dope. Only tape. BTW: the old pipe leaked where it swiveled, NOT where it screwed into the pipe.
I only use tape on fittings that I know will be taken apart. I use Rectorseal #5 And have tested almost every other kind extensively. I had a pipe fitting on a team boiler one time that I had to cut apart and working by flash light cut into the female thread. I thought for sure I was screwed. I put it together with #5 and no leaks 10 yrs later. This was saw all slot wiping out almost all female thread. The worst dope are the Teflon ones that I tested. If I do tape I use the thicker stuff like Blue Monster. They are quicker and easier to put on. Edit. No manufacturers suggest combining dope and tape. That combo also failed my tests miserably at high pressure.
When I first learned 20 years ago, I was taught that you couldn’t use pipe dope (unless it was the Teflon reinforced door) on pvc. So connecting to pvc was really the only time we used Teflon. It was pipe dope for everything else. Of course the only Teflon we had was the really thin white stuff they sell at the hardware store. Later I learned that you can use it all pretty much interchangeably. That plumber was a good plumber but he’s now in his 80s so I was curious if this no dope on plastic came from how older pipe dope was or if it’s just something he learned incorrectly. I do it with tape then dope and it does really good. Unless it’s 3/4 or smaller then sometimes I’ll use only dope. I was taught never to put dope and then tape because the tape will float and push out and be useless.
Josh Cowart you don’t want to use tape and dope on plastics because both are thread lubricants and the thought is by using both you’ll make the joint up to much and crack the fitting.
tyler luht I don’t, I should have been more specific. I just mentioned plastic because I was differentiating ways we used to use different sealants. On plastics I’ve done a 180. Where I was originally taught only to use tape (or ptfe dope when it came out), I now use only dope. I didn’t think about specifying how I do plastics now because it’s rare that I ever use plastic threads. I do mostly new construction so about the only time I see plastic threads anymore is when I occasionally have to fill in on service and it’s schedule 80 nipples so I probably could use both. We run new yard lines in pex.
tyler luht something I was told recently that I never knew or considered about why not to use tape on plastic was expansion. I was told if you use a metal male to pvc female don’t use tape because it will expand and split the fitting. I’m not sure about this because for years we did this (of course it was always the cheap thin white tape) and never had issues. Especially when we’d always use metal male to pvc female because pvc males were so prone to breaking.
@@THETANKGINGER interesting, I’ve never seen the sprinkler guys use dope. It just seems like they only use tape and that super thin tape to boot, though they wrap it a hundred times. I assume you’re talking about fire sprinklers. Anyways I assume it works fine, I was just taught not to do it so it became a habit not to. I guess the way I mentioned would only apply if you globbed on the dope super thick and then wrapped it with tape. In that case I could see the tape sort of getting pushed off. I probably wouldn’t do it because it seems like a mess. The only thing I want to do after applying dope is make up the fitting otherwise it seems like you’d get it all over your hands and everywhere else. Frankly, I’d say tape, dope, or both, it all works. I worked for years using only pipe dope. We rarely used tape and we never had any issues.
Love the grey monster tape on finish . Teflon usually tells you a minimum amount of times , I always go a few more . Tape and dope is awesome , but I don't have problems with just tape , personally .
My opinion never blue monster or regular Hercules pipe dope all that other stuff makes it harder for the next guy to back out the threads or a repair and etc fyi got to think bout the guy after you
Alex Veitia never mind you a handyman or DIY I thought u was a plumbers...yea that’s if and leak lock can cause a plumber to egg the pipe or fitting cause it sets hard just a FYI
Bugatti VI Wrong. No handy man here. Responsible Master Plumber. Look up my credentials on the Texas State Board of Plumbing Examiners website. Another thing, you can avoid egging the pipe once you learn some of the tricks of the trade that come with years of experience. Maybe Roger will teach the rookies some of our tricks on one of his upcoming episodes. Stay tuned...
what you say makes sense I use blue monster on everything because it seems like a superior product and that's what I was taught but the gray Hercules tape is a close second but that is just a personal preference thanks for the information it was helpful
As a technician, not a plumber, I also frequently use tape then dope on steam/water. Sometimes the dope makes the fitting lubricated so depending on situation it might not be helpful.
My Uncle Ned called it “ gooey tape and gooey “ I am a boiler installer I use , Teflon and rector seal “yellow paste”. Tighten with 2 pipe wrenches. I don’t have leaks , yet.
I've been trying to install a dishwasher pressure reduction unit using the T piece and nipples 2 male and one make to brass flair. To get it flush with the wall a can't tighten all the way as the whole system needs to be flat. I've tried using tape the way you described it but always the joints that are not fully tightend leak. I'm tearing my hair out. Thanks for the very clear video though
I usually only do about 5 wraps of white teflon tape on non pressurized systems. But for pressurized systems, I do 5 wraps of the white teflon tape and add pipe dope on either the teflon tape or the female threads. I haven't had leaks doing it this way
PTFE tape is oil, petrol, solvent, acid, gas, water, coolant safe, if it can be wrapped around a thread you can use it, the only difference between PTFE tapes is thickness/width, use what suits your clearance needs.
Why is it no one ever shows you how to do this when you don't have clean access to the thread you're putting the tape on. Anyone can do it with the whole unit in your hand - it's harder upside down in a cupboard where these jobs usually have to be done.
We were told not to use the Teflon tape and only use pipe compound. The reasoning is what he said in this video. If I piece of Teflon tape flys off and gets into system it can damage a lot of different equipment. Also I just heard pipe dope doesn’t leak as easy as the tape can.
You say you are going to put a link to where I can find additional information on several of your posts. (This one [at 2:42] you said you will link to where I can find the place manufacturers state the proper amount of tape to use and which products can be used with Gas, water ECT.) but I have yet to find even one. Please tell me where these links can be found on your posts. I love to watch your videos for the great information and sometimes the funny things you add to the videos. So far I haven't gotten flushed. I'll see you on the next video.
sorry about that...cleanfit.com/blue_monster_ptfe_thread_seal_tape_70885.shtml here is a link from one of the products I use..I hope this help...and don't get flushed
Tape spread out inch wide and a you may get 1/2" to 5/8" engagement, 1/2" tape ends up 5/8 wide after 3 wraps is plenty. I do threaded stainless all day long and 1/2" tape and dope gets the job done.
My pipe dope of choice is T Plus 2, Teflon enriched thread Sealant. It says it is good for potable water, DWV, natural gas, and industrial gases. It is not for oxygen service. Never gave it a thought to use pipe dope and Teflon tape in conjunction, I will give it a go.
I am an auto mechanic. I have blue and I have yellow. Honestly I just use the first one I grab. Both blue monster and blue monster gas guard are petroleum products rated, with the only difference is the gas guard has a temperature rating.
Those gloves are cute😅Just joking Roger!! I usually go around 4 or five times and leave the first thread uncovered also I use the white Teflon tape and the white Teflon paste second! I heard that the yellow Teflon tape is thicker in case you overlap the end of the pipe it doesn't Fray as easily and get into potential orifices in gas runs😀👍🇺🇸
I don't think there's any major noticeable differences between the colors, I think it's just like different diesel/kerosine containers that are just color coded for the sake of identifiability and safety precautions.
In school our prof wouldnt let us use tape or dope because he insisted that a properly threaded joint wouldn't leak. Although he was right they didnt leak I personally always tape and dope in the feild
Lane Patterson - metal to metal when all is proper and tightened enough makes the seal, metal to metal is the seal. Everything else lubricates it so it tightens further readily, and threaded pipe is hardly perfect.
Teflon tape is great for iron pipe and all kind of plastic materials. Stainless steel is something else, the treat is very sharp. We prefer liquid sealant when we need to seal stainless. We also have a rope kind of tape made by loctite (loctite 55) very handy for smaller parts. Loctite 5331 is our ultimate saver, apply it before tape or rope, guaranteed a waterproof seal.
Hay Roger im a 1st year apprentice for a new construction non union company my question is when doing gas pipe i was told to use teflon tape and key tight insted of pipe dope whats the difference? What do you use?
Ok I need some advice. I have tried to fix a leak at the back of my shower head. It’s just a small drip but it’s annoying. I used 1/2 in tape from back to front but it keeps leaking. Not a big or serious problem just want to fix it. Any ideas?
Got it.... so just to confirm, if your tightening left, you wrap the Teflon tap close wise; and if your tightening right, then you're wrapping counter clock wise. Correct??
all i have taken with me at the end of the video....don't let the male or female parts be dirty and use protection for the engagement. Do not overlay pipes. Nipples sticking out of a wall are unusual, you never know what you will find. It's okay to use more wraps if you think that more protection is needed. More protection= less likely to have a leak.
Fine, when you have a section of threaded pipe mounted horizontally directly in front of you. What about when you have to contort your body, hands, arms reaching into tiny cramped spaces (such as under a small sink cabinet) and the tape repeatedly rolls up or folds up on you and a number of pipes or other objects are in your way?
Rodger, I was born, and raised a plumber. My dad, my granddad, my uncles, brothers, and son, all plumbers. When I was a kid,(I'm 63 now.) my dad would make me go to seminars. One of those seminars was with the man that invented t tape.( I can't to this day remember his name.) It was an 8hr seminar, and he could have talked another 20hrs if we would have set there. You are exactly right. I used t tape a lot during my career on almost everything. Thank you for setting young plumbers straight.
I found it intersting and helpful that you started on the back side, wrapped about 1/2 turn, relieved the pressure on the tape, and then moved your finger to the front before continuing. That allowed you to hold the tape while wrapping over the starting point. Great tip! Thanks!
Roger is articulate - doesn’t say “um” - a pleasure to listen to. Thank you 🙏
I can’t listen when the speaker is constantly saying “um”
@@annewhitney3030 Yeppers, I agree. Also, when the writer uses the dreaded word, that, ad nauseum, to me the same as a speaker saying constantly saying "um",
That’s just editing but it is cut very well
Thank you so much for showing people how to do this properly. It continues to amaze me how many wrap the PTFE backwards, have half of it run out, and can’t figure out why they have leaks. Unfortunately, I’m not talking about homeowner here, I’m talking about professionals that should know better. Thanks again!!
I work with guys that have been in the trade for a long time who still apply Teflon the wrong way but I don’t have the heart to correct them, this is the first thing I teach apprentices
I would question why they wrap it the way they do.
I tape and dope most fittings today. Blue monster tape and megaloc dope. All fittings made in China now with worn out dies. They don’t make fittings like years ago. Ward, Nibco, Stockham all made good fittings. Times sure have changed!
I always use pipe dope over teflon tape. It's a great tip. I had an old plumber pass on that trick to me and it has not let me down. All the fittings just glide together. The only time I ran into problems is on Rural Poly style fittings as it's a little too easy to over tighten them. I just go a little easy on them now.
I also use plumbers pipe dope as a really weak locktite on bolts that I need access to regularly (eg, pto clutch on a tractor).
The way I had it explained to me was that the sealant or tape served two purposes. One it acts as a lubricant to allow the threads to go together smoother and further which is tighter on tapered threads. It also prevents Gaulling (sp). That is why even on brass or copper I will still use thread sealant of some sort. I had people tell me not to use sealant on brass because it is soft enough to seal. The other reason for using sealant is to fill the root of the threads. I know, if the threads are perfect there is no gap at the root of the threads. Those fitting either you can't find them or you can't afford them. You also have to think about the fact that at some time you may have to take that joint apart. Going back to the brass or copper you can get them to seal without sealant but your odds of taking it apart are going to be very slim. The method of using tape and dope is benificial if you overshoot tightening an elbow and have to back it off slightly (don't tell me you've never done because I will call you a liar to your face) the pipe dope will fill backing up better than tape alone.
Every man needs a couple of rolls of this in his EDC tool kit.
Amongst other things, I have used it for ...
Installing a valve on an inflatable mattress when I had no rubber glue
Guaranteeing a perfect seal on a respirator filter converter
Fixing a leak on the seals of a pump spray bottle
.... and many many more things.
Its basically the "gaffer tape" of gas and water problems.
When I saw the title I was skeptical, but you made a few good points I hadn't considered, particularly starting from the back to front. I've also heard certain types of tape for certain pipes and applications, but never saw a manufacturer reinforce that. I have come across and almost used dope which wasn't allowed on propane systems (pro dope I believe). It's also worth noting how much the quality of pipe varies these days, some pipe won't take a thread without chipping even with a brand new die. Seems like pipe made 40+ years ago was manufacturered to a higher quality standard. I've taken apart old systems and the threads were so good they probably didn't even need dope or tape. I personally prefer dope then tape just because it's less messy, but as you mentioned, it's a personal preference, neither way will leak. We once had a spider web in a section of pipe from storing material outside, thing was so strong it wouldn't let gas pass through it. Talk about a head scratching troubleshooting nightmare! Needless to say, I always check the inside of the pipe now!
i believe old sch 40 pipe was made from recycled ships and tanks, todays pipe is recycled cars and crap
Kyle and Danny no doubt about it. I worked for the gas utility in St Louis, Missouri for 35 years and today's steel pipe cannot hold a candle up against the old stuff. I will say the fittings made by JP Ward out of Pennsylvania and McDonald out of Iowa are still top notch ( far superior to the stuff made in China and Mexico).
Bob Y ward quality is starting to become suspect. My thing is I always told my helper I never get leaks on gas pipe, this year already I’ve got a sand hole in a 3/4” tee and 2 1”elbows that leaked. Needless to say I wasn’t happy. It broke my 11 year run without a leak on gas
@@joem5332 , nothing POs me more than when you do a perfect job and it doesn't hold a pressure test due to a sand hole ( and of course it is never near a union). 3 fittings in 6 months may not seem to be a lot to some people but when you go for years and install miles of fuel run without one bad fitting to you and I we know three is a lot.
Bob Y., couldn't agree with you more! Been in the industry most of
My adult life and am noticing the difference between gas pipe and
Fittings today are cheaper than hell. I take care of my threaders and dies but even with that the steel cuts differently than the pipe
I used back " in the day", keep up
The good work Rodger!
T-tape then dope = no leaks. thanks for coming to my ted talk.
Hillbilly
Good video. I swear by the blue monster PTFE tape I've even uses it on some threaded electrical fitting to protect from corrosion (nothing in direct contact with water just for future ease of dismantling).
Keep a small triangle file in your tool bag/box for the occasional damaged thread on pipe. Trust me it will save you some headache.
Your video quality is awesome! Impressed with the quality! Didn’t know someone would have a channel on plumbing so well put together! 👏🏽
Thank you very clear and concise instructions. Thanks for leaving out music playing in the background!!
Yellow PTFE, in the UK at least, specifically states on the wrapping that it isn't WRAS approved. Therefore, CANNOT be used on any water supplies (copper/plastic/steel). All fittings for use in water systems, have to be WRAS approved
yes he is american so we have to take into account the lower standards. roger is a fantastic plumber with great ethic, but usa's UPC as opposed to our NPC is significantly relaxed.
You wouldn’t think you’d need a video for applying Teflon tape but, I’ve met a bunch of plumbers that don’t even know which direction to role it.
You should do a video about how to hold Channel Locks
I’d say about half the people I’ve worked with through the years had no idea that it mattered which direction they faced when using to keep them from slipping
Good thought this recommendation would help me as an apprentice
Yep my people constantly say "turn them things around"
Bro but in all honesty all plumbing mechanics hate the way each other work and if you ask a master plumber a question each one will give u a different version of how something is done right lol
No you don’t have to tell an installer to turn wrenches around , just say “ how many years you doing this” gets the point across.
Even these videos don’t clearly show the correct way to install Teflon. I explain the way I learned and why. Never had to show the same person twice. That is the difference between showing and teaching
I'm an engineer. Teflon tape is only needed in the following situations:
-Pipe threads are significantly damaged. The tape helps fill the severe pits and chips.
-If the threads are straight cut and not tapered.
-If you are joining pipes made of dissimilar metals. The tape will help slow (not prevent) galvanic corrosion in the threads.
-If You can't get full thread engagement due to dimensional limitations, then it might help.
Taper threaded pipe is designed to self seal. As the threads are being fully tightened, the threads slide past each other with so much force that they create a mechanical bond between the two surfaces. Pipe dope acts as a lubricant to aid in tightening the joints to achieve the correct amount of thread engagements. A pipe with undamaged threads that is leaking through the threads of a joint is a pipe that was not tightened enough when installed. The reason why that engineer told you to use pipe dope combined with teflon tape was because without the pipe dope acting as a lubricant, it is easy to make the mistake of thinking the joint is fully torqued when it is not.
When you apply teflon tape to a tapered thread and then fully tighten it down, the threads cut through the tape to the point where metal to metal thread engagement is achieved. This creates the seal. If there is an imperfection on that surface, the teflon tape won't do anything to seal it. Applying teflon tape (especially teflon tape without pipe dope) can fool a plumber into thinking the joint has been fully tightened when it hasn't been. This is usually why a telfon taped joint can leak.
Using hemp thread wound into the valleys with pipe dope (as they did before teflon tape was invented) is a superior way to seal threads. If there is an imperfection in the threads that does not seal completely, the hemp thread will absorb the water and expand into the imperfection creating that seal. I've never had a hemp thread+pipe dope joint leak regardless of thread condition. I've had a handful of teflon taped joints leak. Teflon tape is faster, but not really the correct method for anything other than straight threaded joints.
Great tips …. thanks!
How many times have you done it yourself?
@@ligma8353 well said. leave it to the engineer to tell people how to do a job they have never done :D
Rodger knows his stuff. Thank you for the help and tips!
You bet!
100% right! Teflon tape first then pipe dope! Never had a leak when done that way! Im a fan of blue monster products.
Just the right level of detail in the explanation. Thank you!
Here in Canada we leave the first 2 threads bare on gas piping. You touched on the reasoning, you don't want anything caught up in a reg. etc.
Reference:
B149.1-15 Code Book (Natural Gas & Propane)
Section 6.9.6
My entire career I always T tape then dope. Leaks are extremely rare.
Im sure this helps those who are totally clueless about plumbing but would love to see more advanced tips and tricks coming from a master plumber
In the UK we are taught to leave the last couple of threads bare and to clean them so you can see that the thread is in to the right depth. Hear in Canada nobody cares what their joints look like
we are doing the same in Switzerland
Here
plumbing designer here. (Virginia DC Maryland area)
the yellow is most likely based on international fuel gas code 401.5 and 404.17.3
401.5 requires yellow labels with black letters on them
404.17.3 requires tracer wire to be yellow
more than likely people have interperated as yellow everywhere to make life simple.
Roger, there are a lot of Teflon tapes on the market in different shades and colors that will pass all the criteria for the gas industry but you must understand the color yellow is there to assure us the proper tape was used. So my question to you is if I hold up five different pipe nipples, one with dark blue tape , one with light blue tape, one with chartreuse tape, one with white tape and one with yellow tape and I want you to tell me which ones are approved for gas, how do you tell me without a lab test?
Which way is "clockwise" I have a digital watch.
Clockwise on a digital watch is always left to right in the northern hemisphere and right to left in the southern but it may vary depending on which end of the pipe you're on and which direction us considered "up" in a given jurisdiction. In Australia, for example, up is down, left is right and right is wrong. Wrap the tape clockwise for standard pipe threads and anticlockwise for metric but always in the same direction as the Coriolis effect except in the typhoon season.
Tin man,does this mean I should stop putting pipe dope in my coffee?
@@tinman1955 the dope gives it the flavor!
@@tinman1955, don't forget to use a lock washer....😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣😂🤣
I’m a sprinkler fitter and I always dope the threads, but never have it too thick. My main goal is to have a light layer of dope inside the threads. Then 4 wraps of tape. Larger pipe I may add an extra wrap or 2 and put some dope on the outside. Sometimes I even dope the threads in the fitting on pipe sizes like 4”
After trying for about an hour I found your video… extremely helpful and everything worked as it should after watching your video….thanks!
Not a plumber, just needed help with replacing a shower head. This is helpful. I did it and the thing leaks. Now i know what i did wrong, fixing it when everyone gets up later.
What did you do wrong? I have the same issue... I changed my showerhead and now it leaks. 😕
@@maggiehgs3144 i was putting the tape on wrong.
yeah wrap the tape 3-4 times SAME DIRECTION as the showerhead will be tightened...should be clockwise if looking straight at the pipe end. if you wrap opposite way, the tape just bunches up and unravels when tightening the showerhead
I don't know what the code is but I've personally been told by an inspector that the tape or dope has to be yellow for gas fittings or he won't sign off. Maybe he's throwing his weight around, I don't know, but I need his signature and arguing with him isn't the way to get it.
it probably falls into the same reasoning we have different colored fuel containers. Realistically a gas, diesel and kerosene container are functionally the same but for safety standards someone decided to color code so no one mistakes them. Its dumb but id imagine this is similar and the tapes are all the same just different colors.
@@ah7027 that makes sense, and even just that alone I agree with. It is kind of dumb seeing as how most of the regular pipe dopes sold in my area say they can be used for natural gas but the inspector wants only yellow... yet the gas company uses green dope. Whatever. Yellow stuff works just fine and I'd rather keep it separate from the one I use on potable water anyway.
Thank you Roger. You have a nice style of presentation.
also, make sure you have teflon tape covering the first three threads of the pipe because those are the "sealing" threads! the rest of the threads are important but not as important as making sure you have adequate pipe dope and teflon tape on the first three threads.
Great video, thank you roger. You're helping me be the best plumber i can be
Depends on the pipe, tapered pipe isn’t sealing on the first 3 threads.
Thank you, beyond your info, which I agree with, you have tied into the internet potential - tell me your knowledge, experience, that will move all of us ahead much faster than any time in the past!
When I was pursuing an apprenticeship in plumbing the occasions when we did use teflon tape and pipe dope we're similar to how you did it but some circumstances we just used the tape.
The blue teflon you're using is awesome looking I would like to get some like that.
Thanks so much for your great videos on plumbing best practices!
Most of the guidance I see is you start the tape from the smaller end of the tapered pipe
You wrap 2 - 3 wraps at the small end of the pipe and then spiral wraps with overlap to the end of the thread
We use a helium leak detector to verify the leak tightness of the joint.
We can achieve joints with leaks less than 1 x 10-9 std.atm.cc-sec-1
I like Blue Monster tef tape and pipe dope. I do 3 wraps also followed with pipe dope. I have very few leaks. I used to use yellow tef tape for gas fittings until I snapped a water heater gas valve. From then on I use just pipe dope on gas fittings and always bubble test when I'm done.
The yellow tape is slightly thicker - which doesn't really matter much as you can simply use another wrap of the white to match - but the yellow also has some acid resistance because propane is slightly acidic. If you're working with NG it doesn't matter which one you use.
Also I wish you'd covered when to use and when NOT to use tape/dope. I can't tell you how many times I've seen experienced licensed plumbers putting tape on the threads of compression fittings. I'm really baffled by the faucet/toilet/dishwasher supply lines that come with a cute little roll of teflon tape in the bag. Idiocy at its finest.
Thank you for this video Rodger!
Your channel is awesome!!
Thank you so much!
@@RogerWakefield yes, I have a leaky shower head and I see I threaded the end too far with extra tape thinking more is better. Going to scrape the threads too .
Loctite 55 is pretty good. Easy to use and never leaks. More expensive though.
I'm using a red gasket maker together with tape. For example in the case of hydraulic oil pipe without a pressure.
This is what was done in the old days, for brass fittings: with a pipe wrench you apply a few squeezes on the thread. The thread gets a small damage, which helps getting hold of the tape. You don't need the fiddling with one finger over the other as in 4:18. And there are (were?) also brass fittings that has these notches preformed.
Nice info. Was fixing my toilet fill valve, did not need any teflon in it.
I bought and used a few shark bites and noticed they don’t have the white insert anymore. Which was a relief to me because they get jammed up real easily if you don’t line it up perfectly.
Teflon tape and liquid Teflon is what I have used for 15 years. Never had a problem.
I used the white teflon tape on a natural gas line in my house and within a month or so the tape had "liquified" and started leaking gas into the house. I bought the yellow tape and it's been sealed for about 3 months now. I don't know if the tapes are different or not, maybe my white tape was old, if teflon tape can get old. I'm just a homeowner, not a plumber or anything special.
That was procedure at our plant also, Teflon tape then Teflon pipe dope on top of the tape!😁😁
Thank you, Roger! What an informative video
I’ve been putting these water meters in these homes for a newly built subdivision. And had 2 back to back homes where the 1” inch tail pieces (brass) were leaking with the copper female sodder joints.
Cranked on them too. Tape, dope, then tape didn’t matter. Plumber had to remove the old sodder put a deeper threaded one IN. Then it sealed.
So my point is. Make sure you’re getting enough thread coverage and that sucker is going in quite a bit
Great video Sir. Thank you for making great videos. Stay safe brother.
Yes. You’re a fine speaker.
My old shower head began leaking (“internally”, not where it screws in).
I just bought a new shower head… I just removed the old head.
There’s still (old, white) tape on the threads. I assume I need to remove that old tape before putting on the new tape.
I have no dope. Only tape.
BTW: the old pipe leaked where it swiveled, NOT where it screwed into the pipe.
I only use tape on fittings that I know will be taken apart. I use Rectorseal #5 And have tested almost every other kind extensively. I had a pipe fitting on a team boiler one time that I had to cut apart and working by flash light cut into the female thread. I thought for sure I was screwed. I put it together with #5 and no leaks 10 yrs later. This was saw all slot wiping out almost all female thread. The worst dope are the Teflon ones that I tested. If I do tape I use the thicker stuff like Blue Monster. They are quicker and easier to put on. Edit. No manufacturers suggest combining dope and tape. That combo also failed my tests miserably at high pressure.
When I first learned 20 years ago, I was taught that you couldn’t use pipe dope (unless it was the Teflon reinforced door) on pvc. So connecting to pvc was really the only time we used Teflon. It was pipe dope for everything else. Of course the only Teflon we had was the really thin white stuff they sell at the hardware store. Later I learned that you can use it all pretty much interchangeably. That plumber was a good plumber but he’s now in his 80s so I was curious if this no dope on plastic came from how older pipe dope was or if it’s just something he learned incorrectly.
I do it with tape then dope and it does really good. Unless it’s 3/4 or smaller then sometimes I’ll use only dope. I was taught never to put dope and then tape because the tape will float and push out and be useless.
Josh Cowart you don’t want to use tape and dope on plastics because both are thread lubricants and the thought is by using both you’ll make the joint up to much and crack the fitting.
tyler luht I don’t, I should have been more specific. I just mentioned plastic because I was differentiating ways we used to use different sealants. On plastics I’ve done a 180. Where I was originally taught only to use tape (or ptfe dope when it came out), I now use only dope. I didn’t think about specifying how I do plastics now because it’s rare that I ever use plastic threads. I do mostly new construction so about the only time I see plastic threads anymore is when I occasionally have to fill in on service and it’s schedule 80 nipples so I probably could use both. We run new yard lines in pex.
tyler luht something I was told recently that I never knew or considered about why not to use tape on plastic was expansion. I was told if you use a metal male to pvc female don’t use tape because it will expand and split the fitting. I’m not sure about this because for years we did this (of course it was always the cheap thin white tape) and never had issues. Especially when we’d always use metal male to pvc female because pvc males were so prone to breaking.
Sprinkler guys use dope then tape. Works fine.
@@THETANKGINGER interesting, I’ve never seen the sprinkler guys use dope. It just seems like they only use tape and that super thin tape to boot, though they wrap it a hundred times. I assume you’re talking about fire sprinklers. Anyways I assume it works fine, I was just taught not to do it so it became a habit not to. I guess the way I mentioned would only apply if you globbed on the dope super thick and then wrapped it with tape. In that case I could see the tape sort of getting pushed off. I probably wouldn’t do it because it seems like a mess. The only thing I want to do after applying dope is make up the fitting otherwise it seems like you’d get it all over your hands and everywhere else. Frankly, I’d say tape, dope, or both, it all works. I worked for years using only pipe dope. We rarely used tape and we never had any issues.
Love the grey monster tape on finish . Teflon usually tells you a minimum amount of times , I always go a few more . Tape and dope is awesome , but I don't have problems with just tape , personally .
When I have to connect to male threads that are in rough shape I always use blue monster tape and bust out my bottle of Leak Lock pipe dope.
Leak lock is the best! I always have a tube handy!
My opinion never blue monster or regular Hercules pipe dope all that other stuff makes it harder for the next guy to back out the threads or a repair and etc fyi got to think bout the guy after you
Bugatti VI
The next guy can replace the pipe if he can’t back it out.
Alex Veitia never mind you a handyman or DIY I thought u was a plumbers...yea that’s if and leak lock can cause a plumber to egg the pipe or fitting cause it sets hard just a FYI
Bugatti VI
Wrong. No handy man here. Responsible Master Plumber. Look up my credentials on the Texas State Board of Plumbing Examiners website.
Another thing, you can avoid egging the pipe once you learn some of the tricks of the trade that come with years of experience. Maybe Roger will teach the rookies some of our tricks on one of his upcoming episodes. Stay tuned...
What we do is PTFE tape for small pipes like 1/2" or 3/4", but for larger we do stag then hemp then stag again.
Very useful tip sir, thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
what you say makes sense I use blue monster on everything because it seems like a superior product and that's what I was taught but the gray Hercules tape is a close second but that is just a personal preference thanks for the information it was helpful
:58
Teflon does help to seal the pipe but it’s main job is to help in thread engagement which is the way NPT threads seal.
Mega lock pipe dope, use it all the time, even in my coffee
Stains your clothes. Use pro-dope instead. Mega lock sucks.
I rap the tape around 4x and use pro dope on top. Always works great.
As a technician, not a plumber, I also frequently use tape then dope on steam/water.
Sometimes the dope makes the fitting lubricated so depending on situation it might not be helpful.
My Uncle Ned called it “ gooey tape and gooey “ I am a boiler installer I use , Teflon and rector seal “yellow paste”. Tighten with 2 pipe wrenches. I don’t have leaks , yet.
One idiot disliked this video
And no it wasn’t me
I clicked the like button
It's always the same idiot and he's always the first one on the video lol
I gave you a like too,did you notice?
I've been trying to install a dishwasher pressure reduction unit using the T piece and nipples 2 male and one make to brass flair. To get it flush with the wall a can't tighten all the way as the whole system needs to be flat. I've tried using tape the way you described it but always the joints that are not fully tightend leak. I'm tearing my hair out. Thanks for the very clear video though
Obviously, blue for screw because it rhymes.
as opoosed to what
I usually only do about 5 wraps of white teflon tape on non pressurized systems. But for pressurized systems, I do 5 wraps of the white teflon tape and add pipe dope on either the teflon tape or the female threads. I haven't had leaks doing it this way
PTFE tape is oil, petrol, solvent, acid, gas, water, coolant safe, if it can be wrapped around a thread you can use it, the only difference between PTFE tapes is thickness/width, use what suits your clearance needs.
Why is it no one ever shows you how to do this when you don't have clean access to the thread you're putting the tape on. Anyone can do it with the whole unit in your hand - it's harder upside down in a cupboard where these jobs usually have to be done.
Is it possible to use between the tube and conexion a "O" ring and teflon to stop leaking??
We were told not to use the Teflon tape and only use pipe compound. The reasoning is what he said in this video. If I piece of Teflon tape flys off and gets into system it can damage a lot of different equipment. Also I just heard pipe dope doesn’t leak as easy as the tape can.
I am a plumber and I love your videos. I have diligently researched the code book and I also cannot find any code on color?
You say you are going to put a link to where I can find additional information on several of your posts. (This one [at 2:42] you said you will link to where I can find the place manufacturers state the proper amount of tape to use and which products can be used with Gas, water ECT.) but I have yet to find even one. Please tell me where these links can be found on your posts.
I love to watch your videos for the great information and sometimes the funny things you add to the videos. So far I haven't gotten flushed. I'll see you on the next video.
sorry about that...cleanfit.com/blue_monster_ptfe_thread_seal_tape_70885.shtml here is a link from one of the products I use..I hope this help...and don't get flushed
Tape spread out inch wide and a you may get 1/2" to 5/8" engagement, 1/2" tape ends up 5/8 wide after 3 wraps is plenty. I do threaded stainless all day long and 1/2" tape and dope gets the job done.
My pipe dope of choice is T Plus 2, Teflon enriched thread Sealant. It says it is good for potable water, DWV, natural gas, and industrial gases. It is not for oxygen service. Never gave it a thought to use pipe dope and Teflon tape in conjunction, I will give it a go.
I am an auto mechanic. I have blue and I have yellow. Honestly I just use the first one I grab. Both blue monster and blue monster gas guard are petroleum products rated, with the only difference is the gas guard has a temperature rating.
Those gloves are cute😅Just joking Roger!! I usually go around 4 or five times and leave the first thread uncovered also I use the white Teflon tape and the white Teflon paste second! I heard that the yellow Teflon tape is thicker in case you overlap the end of the pipe it doesn't Fray as easily and get into potential orifices in gas runs😀👍🇺🇸
I don't think there's any major noticeable differences between the colors, I think it's just like different diesel/kerosine containers that are just color coded for the sake of identifiability and safety precautions.
In school our prof wouldnt let us use tape or dope because he insisted that a properly threaded joint wouldn't leak. Although he was right they didnt leak I personally always tape and dope in the feild
Lane Patterson - metal to metal when all is proper and tightened enough makes the seal, metal to metal is the seal. Everything else lubricates it so it tightens further readily, and threaded pipe is hardly perfect.
Teflon tape is great for iron pipe and all kind of plastic materials. Stainless steel is something else, the treat is very sharp. We prefer liquid sealant when we need to seal stainless. We also have a rope kind of tape made by loctite (loctite 55) very handy for smaller parts. Loctite 5331 is our ultimate saver, apply it before tape or rope, guaranteed a waterproof seal.
Great point!
That’s the correct way to wrap Teflon tape 👍🏽
Thx, I now know to start at the back go counter clockwise to the front with only leaving a thread showing. I used the oatey grey fasttape.
Tephlon tape also adds lubricity allowing for easter threading and full thread depth.
is it possible to go from fine thread stem cart thread to rethread to coarse thread..
Thank you
Chesterton 800 GoldEnd® Sealant Tape
is the best tape i have ever used very pricey but by far the best
THANKS!
Love being a plumber !
This is best idea 👌
Thank you, Mr. Wakefield. You were clear and concise, making it easy for a novice like me.
Hay Roger im a 1st year apprentice for a new construction non union company my question is when doing gas pipe i was told to use teflon tape and key tight insted of pipe dope whats the difference? What do you use?
Ok I need some advice. I have tried to fix a leak at the back of my shower head. It’s just a small drip but it’s annoying. I used 1/2 in tape from back to front but it keeps leaking. Not a big or serious problem just want to fix it. Any ideas?
Got it.... so just to confirm, if your tightening left, you wrap the Teflon tap close wise; and if your tightening right, then you're wrapping counter clock wise. Correct??
Wow,this seems to be a highly
Contraversial subject!
Talking to plumbers about this kind of stuff is like Chevy vs Ford, it can go in circles for years
all i have taken with me at the end of the video....don't let the male or female parts be dirty and use protection for the engagement. Do not overlay pipes. Nipples sticking out of a wall are unusual, you never know what you will find. It's okay to use more wraps if you think that more protection is needed. More protection= less likely to have a leak.
Too many wraps can break fittings. Fine line
For thermal installation-radiator pipe with wrap or teflon tape?
I can hardly wait, for the how to apply putty the correct way
I saw a DIY video where a guy said he used 15 wraps. That's why I'm watching you. That seems that would make it hard to join.
Fine, when you have a section of threaded pipe mounted horizontally directly in front of you. What about when you have to contort your body, hands, arms reaching into tiny cramped spaces (such as under a small sink cabinet) and the tape repeatedly rolls up or folds up on you and a number of pipes or other objects are in your way?
Starting from the edge vs starting from the end? In the video he started from the end? Any advantage?