Well, when you are putting on the tape, feed it from the bottom side of the roll ( the side closest to the threads you are taping) . Sounds petty, but if it goes from the outside to the outside like a tape cassette, then it's harder, comes off too much. Flip the tape so it spools off from the side closest, the inside, to the outside of the threads, less frustration and a better job because it's tight.
When applying teflon tape (or even electrical tape) in close quarters, you can roll tape onto something small and round. Such as screw driver, pencil, ratchet socket. This makes a small roll you can apply tape easier.
As a 45 yr as a plumber, I’d like to offer a game changer fir you. Turn yiur tape around so when putting on it will help keep pressure on fitting. If the thread diameter is smaller than the roll diameter it will unroll in yiur hand. Either way, using roll other way let’s yiu control the tape easier. Other than that great video, and I too can’t stress DO NOT PUT TAPE ON THE FIRST THREADS. Your absolutely right the tape will get into the plumbing.
Its because in one direction you are winding the spool thus generating tension in the teflon by the opposing forces created by the pivot point between the 2 objects. The opposite direction unwinds the spool and changes the pivot point, adding more tape and negating any tension. The spool doesn't care about the size of the thread, we are the ones creating the pivot point by the friction we apply with our fingers (if you just put the roll of tape on a screwdriver and dont touch it the roll of tape will still unravel). Edit : but yeah, really odd the guy giving tips seems oblivious to the most practical method of application xD)
I've been a pipe fitter for over 20 years and have never used a special thread tape for Stainless. I've used your normal PTFE brand whether in a white, red or, blue cover and the tape is either white or blue for all normal fittings. We use paste or yellow tape depending on the chemicals that run through the pipe. Many different kinds of PTFE pastes are also used. I also was taught to hold the tape 180° different from how it is being held in this video. This allows me to control the tension then putting on the tape especially if the pipe is smaller than the roll, you don't need to keep on manually spinning the toll to build tension, just hold the roll to build tension and have it pull past the friction to tension the tape automatically. You are virtually making an S with the Roll, tape and tape roll instead of a C as seen in this videol
I was repairing where someone used a black pipe fitting on a water heater. It was totally dissolving the black pipe fitting. Seen the stainless counterpart at the store and thought it was a great idea. I could not for the life of me get it to seal. I tried variations of paste, different thicknesses of tape, & different number of wraps with the tape. Came to the conclusion that the stainless was too hard and slick to couple with a galvanized pipe being that galvanized and brass was a softer metal that will bend to each other. Was this not the case?
I came to say the exact same thing with the holding and applying of the tape. Poke a finger in the spool and use your fingers to create the tension. You can wrap super fast this way.
Thanks for bringing up ptfe paste. Just had an issue with teflon tape with a new dishwasher elbow and learned about ptfe paste/ dope. Seems to be a much better solution for most applications.
I work at a plant whee we use a lot of stainless and consider stainless bolts to be single-use because we have to cut them off due to galling. Lubricants containing sulfur help protect against that. I'm guessing that is what is in the streaks. You be you, but I prefer not to cut fittings off because they won't loosen.
You're holding the roll of tape backwards. Flip the roll so the tape is being dispensed from the the other side and you'll find it's much easier to control the tension.
I have hung MILES of pipe in chemical plants. "Flipping" the roll over as described above does indeed help you with tension on the tape as well as better control of the wrap... and it is the only way many chemical companies want their pipes wrapped. I would say that means a bit.
When I use teflon tape, I run the tape clockwise, as per your video, but...I run it "backwards" from the spool. This helps me control the unrolling better, while keeping tension on the tape; and if I do have a fumble-fingers episode, it's much easier to recover than if you're running it forward off the spool, and if you drop it, it's liable to roll 10 feet away, unspooling as it goes.
That's how a lot of plumbers do it... It's how I was taught... Every now and then I "flip" my roll out by accident and it bugs the crap outta me trying to keep it from rolling out while I roll
That was a great way to mention "Like and Subscribe". Not even a pause, no wasted time, just a simple easter egg. Been watching several of your vids, time to sub.
Here are the two plumbing tricks that have made my life easier: 1. At the hardware store, buy way more parts, and of different types and sizes, than you think you'll need for a project. This saves repeated trips to the store, and you can always return what you didn't use. I now have a mini plumbing department in the garage ... 2. Because a pick axe can be used to locate buried sprinkler pipes, keep plenty of repair pieces on-hand, along with the necessary tools and solvents.
I always buy double fittings. Whatever I figure I need, I buy double. Within reason. I can return what I don't use or keep it for the next project/emergency.
That's a pretty good idea. I have three 5-gallon buckets of extra fitting in my storage shed. 1/2, 3/4 and 1 inch. Also have a hardware store 1/2 mile from my house that specializes in plumbing and irrigation parts. Just know that if you are going to the work of digging ditches, adding to your irrigation system or maintaining it that you will be better off in the long run by buying quality, commercial grade components. The stuff they sell at convenience stores like Home Depot is made in China and is absolute junk.
Came here to type this lol. Also to say for plastic fittings (especially metal on plastic) just use pipe dope, less chance of cracking the plastic fitting.
To a certain extent, the color is to indicate to the inspector that a sealant tape has been used, and is compliant for the application. For example, gas inspectors will look for yellow. White tape is not rated for gas or propane. I use the D. N. Group Enterprise pink tape for almost everything as it's rated for propane, natural gas, water, most chemicals, hydraulic lines, air, and sewage lines, for metal and plastic up to 1.5" diameter. Another good brand is Gasoila. However, unlike the D. N. Group pink tape, Gasolia pink tape is only rated for water.
Something I learned early on from an experienced commercial plumber and has never failed me is to use tape and sealant...my preferred combo is Teflon tape and Rector Seal No.5...that has been for natural gas and/or propane gas both low and high pressure...and anything else that is held under pressure in a pipe with threaded connections...the only failures i have experienced were manufacturing defects in fittings, pipe, and equipment...
@ No, the sealant doesn’t ever really cure like a glue. It just fills the voids that the tape can’t, and when you need to unthread it still comes apart just as easily as having only the tape.
I have never had leaks because i used a metal brush on plastic threads. For the folks that don't like to use teflon use hemp with grease (special grease for that) a bit tricky to use especially for smaller threads but by far the most reliable thread sealer because it also can seal when you move the thread by up to 45 degrees after thighten. This is the go to for most of Heating, Waterpipe worker here in switzerland.
@@davidgagnon2849 Switzerland is an quite conservative country especially amongs workforce. So the Hemp is the good'ol style which works really well till very high temperatures and you can move it even till about 90 Degrees and it will still seal. Its a bit tricky to apply at first. The Teflon Thread style not the thin one is pretty good aswell as i found out with some time.
Same here in Austria. I have seen pipes being replaced which were survived at least one world war, and they still were completely sealed. I think in the U.S. people never heard about hemp.
natural hemp rope is only correct way how to do it, I don't know how in other countries or continents, but here in Czechia, everyone uses hemp rope and nothing else, rarely some special glue for threads, but never some plastic tape, that's bizzare
I thought Teflon tape was not for sealing. I thought Teflon tape was used to decrease friction resistance so you can properly tighten metal fittings to the pipes by FULLY engaging the threads and being able to make them properly tight.
That’s correct. Dope is for sealing. Also the white tape especially has very little ptfe. It’s not good at sealing. There are tapes with more like the tan tapes, but you should use dope to seal.
@@bigmacdaddy1234 he thought right. There’s tons of resistance try to thread an old garden hose. Try it with tape. Which is harder. Even better just google “tape vs dope”. Go ahead we’ll wait. Who’s the dope now?
I add dope to my taped joints. Helps fill any imperfections and isn't much more work to add. I do also add tape to my garden fittings. I've had some lower quality ones leak with new gaskets, so the tape and dope solves that issue. Mostly saves me from redoing the job multiple times.
@@MichaelCampbell01 I usually only use dope on metal joints especially on gas lines. I prefer teflon tape when going from plastic to metal or plastic to plastic, I've found dope doesn't do very well on plastic fittings but that's just my preference. I've seen quite a few people using both dope and teflon tape, I've tried it once or twice, but meh, just use the pipe dope with the teflon particles in it, works for me. I don't see the need for both tape and dope. I worked with an old scottish dude once, and he insisted on steam lines to use both tape and dope, but I don't do any steam piping anymore.
Pipe joint sealers, tape or dope help to deduce friction to allow assembly. In a perfect world we wouldn't need these things as a properly cut thread will not leak. Using dope and tape is in my opinion is over kill. There is not enough clearance between the surfaces so most of it gets squeezed out of the joint. Can cause other issues too such as cracked fittings, contamination inside the piping.
@vaughncadney7087 Plus, if you are also bonding parts in the same room, liquid Teflon on bonding surfaces is a very bad thing. In such situations, use the tape on tapered thread fittings or move that operation to another room.
2-3 layers wrapped in the right direction, and ya, skip the tapered edges & prep/cleaning is important. I remodeled for about 20 Years, I've done a lot of work with this stuff. Never put it on backwards and you should very rarely go beyond 3 layers. Really great tips, you explained even more points that I wouldn't have thought to (it's sort of like muscle memory, you just don't think of the small details when doing the work regularly after a while)!
I have been using stainless steel tubing fittings for over 45 years. 1/4”-2”. I have only used USA made PTFE thread tape. I make 2-4 wraps and I have never had one leak even though they were subjected to THOUSANDS of pounds of pressure.
Over 20 years a Pipefitter and this is the first time I've heard of this stainless steel specific tape. He is also holding the tape roll backwards in the video.
I may be wrong, but I'm thinking the special tape he mentions for stainless steel may only be necessary whenever you are connecting those fittings to regular steel or cast iron and whenever water is flowing through them. I think it's to prevent galvanic corrosion. If you ever left something iron sitting on a stainless steel surface and it rained upon it, you'll see the contact with the stainless actually accelerates rusting.
I use blue monster, but I cover the first two threads. Helps protect from gaulding. 4 wraps total. Lots or pressure, heat and overall abuse in the steel industry. Never had a leak... ever
I read it was 93% that actually did it wrong :). Nice video. I have used this tape (correctly) for years, but I still learned something. I was not aware that there was a special tape for stainless steel fittings as I have never used them before.
Just remember number 5 is oil based and should not be used on any plastic pipe. It doesn't need Teflon tape . Most plumbers now use Teflon tape and T+2 pipe thread sealant. These products are very pipe type specific . Black iron and galvanized usually use the vibration proof sealant.
@@JacquelineDoughert You should read the label on the can sometime... it says its good for use on plastic pipe also. Been using this stuff for decades. RectorSeal #5
I used to be an apprentice at a train car workshop. On the cars are air hoses at each end for when you connect cars together, these are just threaded into the hardline that runs through the car to each brake box. When replacing these hoses we used linseed string (linen string?) and linseed oil. We scored the thread, wrapped the string around OPPOSITE the direction of the thread to prevent it just bunching up and being bulldozed out of the way by the hose.
Sometimes you can't fit the spool of tape into the space where the fitting is. Cutting off a section of tape to wrap it by hand sometimes works but is often a PITA. Instead, re-wrap the tape from the spool onto the end of a pencil, and you have a smaller spool on a long handle to reach in and tape the threads.
I am a DIY'er so I've gotten to know my local plumbing supply guys pretty well. I was getting ready to install some plumbing in my underground well house where several valves, pumps, and a couple of pressure tanks are going to live. I asked my buddies at Peterson's Plumbing in Cedar City UT which is better, paste or tape. He said both. He recommended I use a few wraps of tape and then apply paste over it. Been doing that ever since with no problems and a decent amount of peace of mind.
if you are installing fittings into a cast iron pump housing be careful not to over tighten. You lose the feel for tightness with Teflon tape and if you over tighten it could be costly.
Listen to what you hear on UA-cam with a grain of salt. Just avoid having the thread hanging around the hole. Avoiding the first 2 threads is something that I've never seen done working the trade for 20 years. He also holds the tape wrong in the video which is actually annoying to anyone that uses this for a living.
I have seen home owners apply teflon tape to outside of already assembled fitting. I have seen this like 4 times now.. You are holding teflon tape backward. Hold tape with top of the roll against thread. This will allow you to apply tape easier .
Thanks for a very informative video. When I worked in the machinery hydraulics industry with pressures to 3000 psi, I was taught to use just one wrap, and (as you said) to leave the first 2 threads bare. I never had a leak with one wrap, up to 3000 psi.
So when you say 2-3 wraps only you mean 2-3 layers thick? Because what you showed was like 8 wraps but all in all about 3 layers thick across all threads but the entry threads.
Nicely done! I'm only talking about the title and thumbnail. I automatically hit do not recommend channel to anything saying you're doing it wrong and your thoughtful titling made my cut, I admire your restraint and I may see more of your videos in my feed. I' l even toss in a like even though I didn't watch.
I have never used more than two layers of Teflon tape on any tapered fitting, and I've rarely had leaks on high-pressure gas or vacuum.If the threads have been properly machined, the metal on metal seal is usually sufficient. I've always assumed that the Teflon is mostly there to make it easier to tighten and loosen the fitting, i.e. to prevent the threads from galling.
5:00 Disagree. The tape is still useful even when not being used as a seal. By providing separation between the two metal surfaces, it prevents adhesion/fusion of the two surfaces due to things like oxidation, galvanic corrosion, etc. It also reduces friction, making the two threads assemble and later disassemble. It's solid lubricant.
Former old school LPF here who worked on just about every type of pipe or tubing known to man. Couple of points. Any time we were doing malleable, carbon steel or even forged fittings with Teflon tape we would also use never seez (liquid graphite). NEVER had a leak with this combo but it’s not for every application. Whenever you’re using the hose fittings you described or anything with a rubber seal I now use silicon lube or grease on the rubber parts. Same success rate.
Same here, I've always put either a dab of anti-seize or dope behind the engagement threads on anything that may need to come apart for maintenance. It doesn't screw with the seal but keeps everything healthy enough to minimize seizing later on.
The important thing to remember is the tape, or pipe dope if you use that, is a lubricant to create the best mechanical seal you can achieve with the precisely cut and angled threads on your fittings. The mechanical connections between those threads is what's going to give you the longest lasting (or permanent) seal. The tape or pipe dope you use is going to allow you to drive as many threads together as possible because it reduces friction. And, it will also help if you ever have to take the connection apart for repair. Properly cleaning, lubricating (with tape or pipe dope), and appropriately torquing the connection is what's most important.
This is one of those things I figured out on my own as a kid and I find it odd that others don't think this way. Just a bit of thought and trial and error can teach so much. Great video to explain it for those who don't get it. Also, wonder if there's other use applications for that stainless tape. Normal steel threads would gall as well.
In a good number of my lawn watering systems, the hoses have rubber washers but I still get leaks. If I am using soaker hoses this reduces the pressure needed to force the water through the hose. Thank you for this basic information. I am sure I am one of those who wrapes the wrong way. I won't anymore.
Even as a non-American it's very educating to watch these videos adressed to the average American. Where I live and work in Germany, back in the days everyone used strings made of hemp, nowadays most plumbers use Locktite/Unilock. Which is a special type of kinda pre-lubricated string that's a lot better than using hemp or even Teflon. Teflon is mostly used for plastic threads or by DIY people buying their stuff at hardware stores.
Yes, we use plumber's twine here in South Africa 🇿🇦. It lasts forever. I could identify the handwork of my mentor from seeing the quality of his fittings, decades later. That's how a true artisan works. He was from Deutsche descent.
Good day I enjoyed the video it was informative . I've only seen twice in my life a pipe fitting sealed with clear silicone . It worked with no dripping at all . Back in the late 60's I saw a man use regular household paint on the threads to seal it .
2:56 if you flip the roll in your hand around the other way it makes it far easier to apply because it stays close to the fitting instead of unwinding itself when you loop it around.
Pipe dope is mandatory for iron and steel pipes. Also, on larger threads (like 2" and greater lines) you can skip the teflon and put a piece of string coated in dope around 2-3 threads (and no more) to do the same job. Learned that from a plumber.
Yes @ bwhog . I've been a plumber since 1988 and was a apprentice since 1979. On boiler work ,where we used malleable iron fittings, we would coat lamp wick with pipe dope and wrap the male threads with it . Especially , when you were connecting pipe with new threads to an existing malleable fitting . When tightening the new threads into the old fitting , the threads would cut the string to fill any voids between new pipe threads and old fitting .
I'm 61, started using PTFE tape when it first came out (5th grade) never leaked! Been in mechanical trades my whole life. Stop with the clickbait bullshit! Very easy to use! Works every time with just a couple of wraps!
FYI....Thread charts usually recommend cutting NPT threads such that the pair results in a metal to metal condition in about 3 1/2 turns from first engagement. Tape is thread lubricant and is not intended to impede achieving the metal to metal condition. Therefore, it is best to use no more than three turns, skipping the first thread as you said. I have found teflon tape in all sorts of devices during troubleshooting jobs. IT IS VERY EASY TO BE MORE TROUBLE THAN ITS WORTH in systems with small diameter passages.
Great advice. I been doing plumbing for decades, even high pressure hydraulic connections in the marine environment up to 6000psi. For NPT fittings, paste ("pipe dope") is also very good. Where possible though, I always to use JIS bevelled fittings, as they are bullet proof reliable and can be connected/disconnected respectively without fear of causing leaks.
I'm sorry to say, you're part of the 92% that's using it wrong. Teflon tape isn't meant to seal a joint, it's meant to lubricate the threads of a metal pipe joint allowing you to get it tighter and thus, a better seal. It's not meant for use on plastic or brass, just iron, and steel pipes. If you need to seal a joint, you need to use a thread sealant compound. I like Loctite 567 in the large toothpaste tube personally. Yes, if you wrap enough tape it will usually help to seal a joint, but it's poor workmanship. Be aware, you NEVER use Teflon tape on any kind of hydraulic joint like an automatic transmission cooler line. The tape will shed bits which get caught up in the tiny pilot passages of may valves. Even when it doesn't shed when applied, it sure will when the joint is disassembled requiring great care to make absolutely sure nothing is left. But in the real world, very few techs know any better or will take the time to clean out all the crap. It then becomes a nightmare as different valves in the system randomly stop due to the bits of Teflon tape floating around the system. I've encountered this a few times over the years in CNC machining centers and it quite frankly sucks when you're the guy that's stuck figuring it out. I've been in industrial maintenance for over 20 years and I can't say it enough: Proper tool for the job! Also, you're holding the spool of tape backwards...
Personally I don't like dope. It hardens so that it becomes impossible to make alterations later. But if you expect the connection to be permanent, that's probably fine. It will be permanent.
Before I installed some iron gas line I practiced with a length of pipe, end caps, an air fitting and a pressure gauge. I used tape, pressurized the pipe and waited several hours. It leaked. I used the pipe dope and repeated the test. No leak. I tried several more times. The pipe dope always worked. I was only able to get a seal using tape about 70% of the time. I used the pipe dope on the project. Zero leaks. Before you install gas lines, I suggest you practice and test the results each time.
As mentioned a few times bellow already, the tape is not a sealant, but a lubricant. It also helps the thread to not weld together overtime, especially on dissimilar metals. The side effect of having the tape (lubricant) on the thread, is that you can thread it tight and correctly, which makes the seal. So use the tape as indicated in this video, but if you're leaking, it's not the tape's fault, its' because you didn't tighten enough, or there's a problem with the thread.
Thread tape and pipe dope help, but the real tip is realizing that the threads are tapered, smaller at the beginning of the threads gradually increasing in size and getting tighter the deeper you thread the fitting together, so the real seal comes from the threads making contact with each other the tighter the fitting gets. Anything else is supplementary/ good practice
It's not just homeowners and proper application/orientation on the threads of flare fittings isn't nearly the worst problem many folks have with teflon tape. Working in the auto industry for the past twenty five years, I've seen it used on flare and compression fittings hundreds of times! Not long ago, we had a guy come in with a 69 Corvette he'd just restored himself. Every fitting in the fuel system and even worse the brake system, had the telltale white hairs hanging out of em. Really looked great on the mess of lines and fittings that feed the tri-power set up! Funny thing, he couldn't get a solid brake pedal, but somehow it didn't leak fuel... Yet! It always boggles my mind when I see these issues, since I'd like to think most people are smart enough to understand how different types of fittings seal, if they took a second to ponder it. One tip I learned many years ago, that I believe has helped me to never have leak issues with larger pipe thread fittings... My uncle taught me to use a little pipe dope along with the teflon tape. His and now my go-to is Rectum... er Rector Seal.
No dope is the sealant. It has a high enough ptfe content to seal well. Tape is the lubricant. It has very low ptfe content (although yellow tape has more). Seriously just google “tape vs dope” ok. Stop passing the bad info.
i always thought you wound it reverse because as you're tightening, it can remove the tape. No idea why I thought that, to be honest. It makes sense that the tape would have less overlapping threads going the correct way. Thanks for the vid!
What most people don't understand is that Teflon tape is a "lubricant" that reduces the friction between pipe threads so that they can be properly tightened. Sealant property of the tape is added insurance.
That tip about not taping the first threads is a good one. I used to work in internet datacenters. One of our company sites had an ice storm and went onto diesel generators. One of the engines shutdown, but fortunately we had another diesel generator. When the generator mechanic got there, he discovered that some teflon tape used for a fuel line wasn't put on correctly. A piece of tape was inside the line and had broken off and was caught in the fuel filter, which eventually starved the engine of fuel.
@@everettrhay4855I’m sure low pressure would be fine but as a hydraulic technician I can guarantee you absolutely need tape or preferably pipe dope on anything over 300psi idc if King Kong tightened it, it will 100 percent leak with nothing
As always you give excel-users exactly what they need : clear examples on how to benefit from the exceptional features that are availablel but not known to the majority of the users. Thank you very much.
As someone who does plumbing in aerospace applications, I use stainless steel fittings all the time with regular tape and it does not gaull. You just need to add a decent amount of tape, maybe a little superlube or krytox if it's an ox system and then just don't chimp out on it. Friction is what causes gaulling so don't tighten it that much. NPT is really good at not leaking, depending on the fitting it can hold like 6-10k psi
Same goes for plumbing compression fittings that use an olive for sealing. Dont wrap the threads, put 2-3 wraps around the olive itself if it leaks, or use a jointing compound
I use to use Teflon tape, still do sometimes, but now I moved to hemp and paste. I find they hold better and when you have to und it, it can still be used without worrying about damage to the tape.
I wish I had this video 40 years ago it would have saved me a lot of heartache as many who worked industrial maintenance had to find out by trial and error your fellow workers would rarely instruct the use of simple procedures no the new guys even if they could cost you a days work. After you plumb a production line if you used tape rather then putty and did not do as you demonstrate here you most likely will have to return as they will leak if it is steel pipe, not so much brass. I piped about 15 stations with multiple water lines for each machine from a 30' ceiling it will appear to be raining when turned on. And if you are new and think that just tightening the fitting will work depending on the size of the pipe you may just bust the fitting before it tops leaking. Smaller fittings up to an inch may not break however they will start leaking again within a few days. Hope this helps as the lesson on your own may keep you sore for a few days and if you are paying for it that really sucks.
I would think if you wrap the tape counter clockwise, then you screw in the pipe the seal would be better because since it is creating friction. My handyman uncle did that all the time, at our home and his and customers, and never had a problem, but you're saying this is the correct way regardless of his way. Is that right? Thanks.
I found that there are two reasons to use a Teflon tape. You have already mentioned the first one - stopping leaks. Sometimes the fittings corrode a bit, especially stainless steel ones, and the two parts get stuck together making it very hard to unscrew at a future date. This is prevented if you use 2 - 3 layers of tape at all times. So, the second reason is to make it easier to unscrew if you get a bit of corrosion, and the parts tend to stick.
Also any fitting that has a bevel like a jic don’t get tape, also if you flip your roll around and unwind the roll in the opposite direction it’s a lot easier than front rolling it.
I always dope the threads after taping. Never had leaks. I also use a good tape and not the super thin tape that comes from your local hardware store. Makes a huge difference in my experience.
So if a fitting has a rubber washer then I should not use tape too? Like outside on my water hose which does have rubber washer, then I should not use the tape too? Just clarifying. Thanks! So informative. I know to wrap in same direction it will screw but 9 times outta 10 I have to redo. I think I’m directionally challenged! lol
Reverse the roll to keep tension on the tape. Also use the flange of the tape roll to wind the tape into the root of the thread. This prevents the tape unwinding when you screw the fitting in.
I almost always use tape and then pipe dope over the tape. I think the best is Gasoila, the same brand as the tape he uses on stainless in the video. Gasoila has many different products, I use soft seal with PTFE. And just because its called Gasoila doesn't mean its only for gas. Don't over do it, using too much just makes a mess. Some plumbers will say you don't need tape + dope, and they are right, but in my 30 plus years of plumbing I have learned its the best way to avoid leaks. Also use a rag to wipe off the excess that squeezes out of the fitting. Makes it look clean and professional.
A note on the connection's with rubber gaskets, I recommend using it when the connectors are dissimilar metals. I've started using it on my hose bibs and it makes it so much easier to remove them when I need to, because it acts as a barrier for galvanic corrosion.
allo & TY very much for this knowledge on teflon tape , Question ; What tape should i use on my Rohloff IGH oil filling set screw to seal it ? i know i can just remove the old tape and apply new tape, this would prevent me from buying ready taped screws that i think i can do without save money for other parts or so. Thank you again, best regards
You don’t need tape on new pipe connections they are precise on a mm that’s less tan cm or less than inch for all American that use outdated Imperial system. You have rubber rings as sealant. In Europe it’s used as a preventative measure but mostly for patching up leaks on old connections.
As a heavy truck mechanic for over 30 years I can't tell you how many times I've seen where guys put it on compression and or flair fittings. Being that I work on a large fleet of mixers (cement trucks) I tend to need it fairly often. I just want to know what your take is for using pipe dope and any other guys that might see this comment. Also I've seen a couple videos showing that you are supposed to roll it up into a string and goes right down between the threads. Anyway ya I'm just curious to see what you and others think about it. Finally decent video and because of that I'm definitely going to go back and check out some of your videos from the past 👍🇨🇦🔧
Hmm, despite your mantra of less turns, your final example shows six turns. i was taught five turns. I applaud your direction tips and start from the back. This i will follow. many thanks.
I've worked in industrial environments for the past thirty years. The Union pipefitters I work around will usually use both tape and dope on a joint with NPT threads. And no more than two turns of tape. That might be overkill for some DIY applications, but that joint will never leak.
What plumbing tricks have made your life easier?
Pro-press 🤣
Hire a pro. Pay the $$. Let them handle it. It's well worth the expense. (And, no, I'm not a plumber.)
@@PJam2019 Pro press has taken a lot of problems out of plumbing work, what a blessing.
Well, when you are putting on the tape, feed it from the bottom side of the roll ( the side closest to the threads you are taping) . Sounds petty, but if it goes from the outside to the outside like a tape cassette, then it's harder, comes off too much. Flip the tape so it spools off from the side closest, the inside, to the outside of the threads, less frustration and a better job because it's tight.
When applying teflon tape (or even electrical tape) in close quarters, you can roll tape onto something small and round. Such as screw driver, pencil, ratchet socket. This makes a small roll you can apply tape easier.
As a 45 yr as a plumber, I’d like to offer a game changer fir you. Turn yiur tape around so when putting on it will help keep pressure on fitting. If the thread diameter is smaller than the roll diameter it will unroll in yiur hand. Either way, using roll other way let’s yiu control the tape easier. Other than that great video, and I too can’t stress DO NOT PUT TAPE ON THE FIRST THREADS. Your absolutely right the tape will get into the plumbing.
Was going to suggest the same thing an old plumber's tip.
Yeah that was painfull 😅
Its because in one direction you are winding the spool thus generating tension in the teflon by the opposing forces created by the pivot point between the 2 objects. The opposite direction unwinds the spool and changes the pivot point, adding more tape and negating any tension. The spool doesn't care about the size of the thread, we are the ones creating the pivot point by the friction we apply with our fingers (if you just put the roll of tape on a screwdriver and dont touch it the roll of tape will still unravel).
Edit : but yeah, really odd the guy giving tips seems oblivious to the most practical method of application xD)
You are put it on wrong the roll is going the wrong way
As a sun of a plumber who spet his summer vacations helping dad, that also hurt my eyes and brains:) looks so awkward to put it on this way
How'd you arrive at 92%?
You stop right before 93%
Source: Trust me, Bro
xD I love some of the stuff I read on the Internet.
92% of statistics found on the internet were made up on the spot
Sources: Voices of his head.
I've been a pipe fitter for over 20 years and have never used a special thread tape for Stainless. I've used your normal PTFE brand whether in a white, red or, blue cover and the tape is either white or blue for all normal fittings. We use paste or yellow tape depending on the chemicals that run through the pipe. Many different kinds of PTFE pastes are also used.
I also was taught to hold the tape 180° different from how it is being held in this video. This allows me to control the tension then putting on the tape especially if the pipe is smaller than the roll, you don't need to keep on manually spinning the toll to build tension, just hold the roll to build tension and have it pull past the friction to tension the tape automatically. You are virtually making an S with the Roll, tape and tape roll instead of a C as seen in this videol
I was repairing where someone used a black pipe fitting on a water heater. It was totally dissolving the black pipe fitting. Seen the stainless counterpart at the store and thought it was a great idea. I could not for the life of me get it to seal. I tried variations of paste, different thicknesses of tape, & different number of wraps with the tape. Came to the conclusion that the stainless was too hard and slick to couple with a galvanized pipe being that galvanized and brass was a softer metal that will bend to each other. Was this not the case?
I came to say the exact same thing with the holding and applying of the tape. Poke a finger in the spool and use your fingers to create the tension. You can wrap super fast this way.
If you want quality work and real value always go union. Cheap isn’t.
Thanks for bringing up ptfe paste. Just had an issue with teflon tape with a new dishwasher elbow and learned about ptfe paste/ dope. Seems to be a much better solution for most applications.
I work at a plant whee we use a lot of stainless and consider stainless bolts to be single-use because we have to cut them off due to galling. Lubricants containing sulfur help protect against that. I'm guessing that is what is in the streaks. You be you, but I prefer not to cut fittings off because they won't loosen.
You're holding the roll of tape backwards. Flip the roll so the tape is being dispensed from the the other side and you'll find it's much easier to control the tension.
Beard good mullet bad! 😬
That's a matter of preference
I have hung MILES of pipe in chemical plants. "Flipping" the roll over as described above does indeed help you with tension on the tape as well as better control of the wrap... and it is the only way many chemical companies want their pipes wrapped. I would say that means a bit.
@@torpedohippo8493no.its not,,, proper pipe fitters n plumbers are trained to do it that way as its putting it on with no potential for slack
@@TheDigger06 dude, there's no slack the other way either, if you do it properly... It's a matter of preference.
When I use teflon tape, I run the tape clockwise, as per your video, but...I run it "backwards" from the spool. This helps me control the unrolling better, while keeping tension on the tape; and if I do have a fumble-fingers episode, it's much easier to recover than if you're running it forward off the spool, and if you drop it, it's liable to roll 10 feet away, unspooling as it goes.
Yeah, he's actually unwinding the roll in the wrong direction. You're doing it correctly. It makes it easier to handle.
That is exactly what my thoughts was when I first look at it.
That's how a lot of plumbers do it... It's how I was taught...
Every now and then I "flip" my roll out by accident and it bugs the crap outta me trying to keep it from rolling out while I roll
I do the same
I do the same
That was a great way to mention "Like and Subscribe". Not even a pause, no wasted time, just a simple easter egg. Been watching several of your vids, time to sub.
I really appreciate that, welcome aboard.
Here are the two plumbing tricks that have made my life easier:
1. At the hardware store, buy way more parts, and of different types and sizes, than you think you'll need for a project. This saves repeated trips to the store, and you can always return what you didn't use. I now have a mini plumbing department in the garage ...
2. Because a pick axe can be used to locate buried sprinkler pipes, keep plenty of repair pieces on-hand, along with the necessary tools and solvents.
I always buy double fittings. Whatever I figure I need, I buy double. Within reason. I can return what I don't use or keep it for the next project/emergency.
That's a pretty good idea. I have three 5-gallon buckets of extra fitting in my storage shed. 1/2, 3/4 and 1 inch. Also have a hardware store 1/2 mile from my house that specializes in plumbing and irrigation parts. Just know that if you are going to the work of digging ditches, adding to your irrigation system or maintaining it that you will be better off in the long run by buying quality, commercial grade components. The stuff they sell at convenience stores like Home Depot is made in China and is absolute junk.
Buying an item with the intent of returning is kinda a duck move
‘Pick axe buried pipe detector’ 😂
I think I've had plumbers do that and then charge me for all of them.
At 2:17 you are unwinding the tape roll backwards. It's hard to wrap it snug that way.
Came here to type this lol. Also to say for plastic fittings (especially metal on plastic) just use pipe dope, less chance of cracking the plastic fitting.
@@Logan-cw9yr i agree.
To a certain extent, the color is to indicate to the inspector that a sealant tape has been used, and is compliant for the application. For example, gas inspectors will look for yellow. White tape is not rated for gas or propane. I use the D. N. Group Enterprise pink tape for almost everything as it's rated for propane, natural gas, water, most chemicals, hydraulic lines, air, and sewage lines, for metal and plastic up to 1.5" diameter. Another good brand is Gasoila. However, unlike the D. N. Group pink tape, Gasolia pink tape is only rated for water.
Gas tape is white but comes on a yellow reel. How does the inspector know what colour reel it came off?
Something I learned early on from an experienced commercial plumber and has never failed me is to use tape and sealant...my preferred combo is Teflon tape and Rector Seal No.5...that has been for natural gas and/or propane gas both low and high pressure...and anything else that is held under pressure in a pipe with threaded connections...the only failures i have experienced were manufacturing defects in fittings, pipe, and equipment...
I do this same thing - both pipe dope and Teflon tape have been a game changer for me!
Doesn't that Just make it almost impossible to take off in the Future?
@ No, the sealant doesn’t ever really cure like a glue. It just fills the voids that the tape can’t, and when you need to unthread it still comes apart just as easily as having only the tape.
I have never had leaks because i used a metal brush on plastic threads. For the folks that don't like to use teflon use hemp with grease (special grease for that) a bit tricky to use especially for smaller threads but by far the most reliable thread sealer because it also can seal when you move the thread by up to 45 degrees after thighten. This is the go to for most of Heating, Waterpipe worker here in switzerland.
Cos of the quality of Teflon tapes and strength (cuts) of Iron pipes in the Balkans, the hemp with grease is the best solution.
As an American DIYer all my life, I've never heard about using a hemp product in the threads except here in the comments.
@@davidgagnon2849 Switzerland is an quite conservative country especially amongs workforce. So the Hemp is the good'ol style which works really well till very high temperatures and you can move it even till about 90 Degrees and it will still seal. Its a bit tricky to apply at first. The Teflon Thread style not the thin one is pretty good aswell as i found out with some time.
Same here in Austria. I have seen pipes being replaced which were survived at least one world war, and they still were completely sealed. I think in the U.S. people never heard about hemp.
natural hemp rope is only correct way how to do it, I don't know how in other countries or continents, but here in Czechia, everyone uses hemp rope and nothing else, rarely some special glue for threads, but never some plastic tape, that's bizzare
I switched to pipe dope years ago for all my amateur plumbing projects. Haven’t had a leak in years. It’s messy but worth it
Maybe I need to try some pipe dope. All the air tanks on my cars have slow leaks and it’s so frustrating
I thought Teflon tape was not for sealing. I thought Teflon tape was used to decrease friction resistance so you can properly tighten metal fittings to the pipes by FULLY engaging the threads and being able to make them properly tight.
That’s correct. Dope is for sealing. Also the white tape especially has very little ptfe. It’s not good at sealing. There are tapes with more like the tan tapes, but you should use dope to seal.
You thought wrong. Why would there be friction resistance?
yes agree, it is classified as a lubricant, helps prevent galling and does help fill some voids also
@@bigmacdaddy1234 he thought right. There’s tons of resistance try to thread an old garden hose. Try it with tape. Which is harder. Even better just google “tape vs dope”. Go ahead we’ll wait. Who’s the dope now?
Yes it is a thread lubricant not a thread sealant.
Flip your tape over when you're wrapping it, it'll change your life.
I saw that I kinda freaked out. Flip that role over for easier installation
Yeah this guy is a rookie
@@SwagBar that was my thought..... he's talking like he's a pro, but that's rookie mistake...
@@SwagBara rookie with 3.6M views on 1 video 892k subs 38k likes 👍🏼 one 1️⃣ video. Doing something right, although I agree with y’all
U beat me to it
I add dope to my taped joints. Helps fill any imperfections and isn't much more work to add. I do also add tape to my garden fittings. I've had some lower quality ones leak with new gaskets, so the tape and dope solves that issue. Mostly saves me from redoing the job multiple times.
I see a lot of guys using both; but I found dope to work mostly better for me, if a bit messier.
@@MichaelCampbell01 I usually only use dope on metal joints especially on gas lines. I prefer teflon tape when going from plastic to metal or plastic to plastic, I've found dope doesn't do very well on plastic fittings but that's just my preference. I've seen quite a few people using both dope and teflon tape, I've tried it once or twice, but meh, just use the pipe dope with the teflon particles in it, works for me. I don't see the need for both tape and dope. I worked with an old scottish dude once, and he insisted on steam lines to use both tape and dope, but I don't do any steam piping anymore.
Pipe joint sealers, tape or dope help to deduce friction to allow assembly. In a perfect world we wouldn't need these things as a properly cut thread will not leak.
Using dope and tape is in my opinion is over kill. There is not enough clearance between the surfaces so most of it gets squeezed out of the joint. Can cause other issues too such as cracked fittings, contamination inside the piping.
@vaughncadney7087 Plus, if you are also bonding parts in the same room, liquid Teflon on bonding surfaces is a very bad thing. In such situations, use the tape on tapered thread fittings or move that operation to another room.
You are the first person in all my search results that mentioned special tape for stainless steel fittings. Thank you!
I knew enough not to put tape over the end of the pipe, but it did not know the leave the last two threads bare trick. Thank you sir!
2-3 layers wrapped in the right direction, and ya, skip the tapered edges & prep/cleaning is important. I remodeled for about 20 Years, I've done a lot of work with this stuff. Never put it on backwards and you should very rarely go beyond 3 layers. Really great tips, you explained even more points that I wouldn't have thought to (it's sort of like muscle memory, you just don't think of the small details when doing the work regularly after a while)!
I have been using stainless steel tubing fittings for over 45 years. 1/4”-2”. I have only used USA made PTFE thread tape. I make 2-4 wraps and I have never had one leak even though they were subjected to THOUSANDS of pounds of pressure.
I love the Big Blue brand teflon tape in the big rolls. It's never let me down yet.
Over 20 years a Pipefitter and this is the first time I've heard of this stainless steel specific tape. He is also holding the tape roll backwards in the video.
@@esqueue I noticed that also.
I may be wrong, but I'm thinking the special tape he mentions for stainless steel may only be necessary whenever you are connecting those fittings to regular steel or cast iron and whenever water is flowing through them. I think it's to prevent galvanic corrosion. If you ever left something iron sitting on a stainless steel surface and it rained upon it, you'll see the contact with the stainless actually accelerates rusting.
I use blue monster, but I cover the first two threads. Helps protect from gaulding. 4 wraps total. Lots or pressure, heat and overall abuse in the steel industry. Never had a leak... ever
I read it was 93% that actually did it wrong :). Nice video. I have used this tape (correctly) for years, but I still learned something. I was not aware that there was a special tape for stainless steel fittings as I have never used them before.
All I can say is that the tape is good...but that RectorSeal No. 5 Pipe Thread Sealant stuff is so awesome.
Agreed, I believe if thats the yellowish stuff I have used that on heating hydro lines a lot with no leaks every, even after many years
Rector Seal #5 is the standard ! Great Stuff !
Just remember number 5 is oil based and should not be used on any plastic pipe. It doesn't need Teflon tape . Most plumbers now use Teflon tape and T+2 pipe thread sealant. These products are very pipe type specific . Black iron and galvanized usually use the vibration proof sealant.
@@JacquelineDoughert You should read the label on the can sometime... it says its good for use on plastic pipe also. Been using this stuff for decades. RectorSeal #5
@russbell6418 Don't get me started on the guys that take purple primer on trims !
I used to be an apprentice at a train car workshop.
On the cars are air hoses at each end for when you connect cars together, these are just threaded into the hardline that runs through the car to each brake box.
When replacing these hoses we used linseed string (linen string?) and linseed oil. We scored the thread, wrapped the string around OPPOSITE the direction of the thread to prevent it just bunching up and being bulldozed out of the way by the hose.
Love the useful nature of your videos. Probably won't ever buy an automated electric lawn mower, but your pragmatic view has its own value.
I really appreciate that, thank you
You say wrap the tape around two or three times only, then you wrap it around almost five times (2:50) ???
Two or three layers is what he meant
Sometimes you can't fit the spool of tape into the space where the fitting is. Cutting off a section of tape to wrap it by hand sometimes works but is often a PITA. Instead, re-wrap the tape from the spool onto the end of a pencil, and you have a smaller spool on a long handle to reach in and tape the threads.
I am a DIY'er so I've gotten to know my local plumbing supply guys pretty well. I was getting ready to install some plumbing in my underground well house where several valves, pumps, and a couple of pressure tanks are going to live. I asked my buddies at Peterson's Plumbing in Cedar City UT which is better, paste or tape. He said both. He recommended I use a few wraps of tape and then apply paste over it. Been doing that ever since with no problems and a decent amount of peace of mind.
if you are installing fittings into a cast iron pump housing be careful not to over tighten. You lose the feel for tightness with Teflon tape and if you over tighten it could be costly.
I knew about the proper direction and the 2-3 layers, but never knew to avoid the 1st 2 threads. Thanks for the informative video!
Listen to what you hear on UA-cam with a grain of salt. Just avoid having the thread hanging around the hole. Avoiding the first 2 threads is something that I've never seen done working the trade for 20 years. He also holds the tape wrong in the video which is actually annoying to anyone that uses this for a living.
I have seen home owners apply teflon tape to outside of already assembled fitting. I have seen this like 4 times now..
You are holding teflon tape backward. Hold tape with top of the roll against thread. This will allow you to apply tape easier .
Thanks for a very informative video. When I worked in the machinery hydraulics industry with pressures to 3000 psi, I was taught to use just one wrap, and (as you said) to leave the first 2 threads bare. I never had a leak with one wrap, up to 3000 psi.
I love how practical and informative this video is! It's like having a plumbing expert right there with us, guiding us through each step.
I'm not so sure...
Lol
So when you say 2-3 wraps only you mean 2-3 layers thick? Because what you showed was like 8 wraps but all in all about 3 layers thick across all threads but the entry threads.
Pros unroll the tape with the roller on the other side. with the roller on the outside, hard to explain but keep up the great work. Thanks
Yep, way easier to keep tension on the roll with your thumb/middle finger that way.
like this: __O, not this: ̅ ̅ O
@@danielmackey6594 Where is the pipe located in your stick and ball diagram please?
Nicely done! I'm only talking about the title and thumbnail. I automatically hit do not recommend channel to anything saying you're doing it wrong and your thoughtful titling made my cut, I admire your restraint and I may see more of your videos in my feed. I'
l even toss in a like even though I didn't watch.
Great video, very informative. I would add that stretching the tape a bit while wrapping the threads helps. Also, I think you used too much tape.
Yeah he seemed to double tape it. But should it be just one layer one wrap? Like too much isn't really necessary. The direction looked good
The amount of tape you can use and still get the fittings on without excess effort is the right amount of tape. So if it works, its right.
I have never used more than two layers of Teflon tape on any tapered fitting, and I've rarely had leaks on high-pressure gas or vacuum.If the threads have been properly machined, the metal on metal seal is usually sufficient. I've always assumed that the Teflon is mostly there to make it easier to tighten and loosen the fitting, i.e. to prevent the threads from galling.
No, he used exactly the correct amount of tape.
5:00 Disagree. The tape is still useful even when not being used as a seal.
By providing separation between the two metal surfaces, it prevents adhesion/fusion of the two surfaces due to things like oxidation, galvanic corrosion, etc.
It also reduces friction, making the two threads assemble and later disassemble.
It's solid lubricant.
Former old school LPF here who worked on just about every type of pipe or tubing known to man. Couple of points. Any time we were doing malleable, carbon steel or even forged fittings with Teflon tape we would also use never seez (liquid graphite). NEVER had a leak with this combo but it’s not for every application. Whenever you’re using the hose fittings you described or anything with a rubber seal I now use silicon lube or grease on the rubber parts. Same success rate.
Same here, I've always put either a dab of anti-seize or dope behind the engagement threads on anything that may need to come apart for maintenance. It doesn't screw with the seal but keeps everything healthy enough to minimize seizing later on.
The important thing to remember is the tape, or pipe dope if you use that, is a lubricant to create the best mechanical seal you can achieve with the precisely cut and angled threads on your fittings. The mechanical connections between those threads is what's going to give you the longest lasting (or permanent) seal. The tape or pipe dope you use is going to allow you to drive as many threads together as possible because it reduces friction. And, it will also help if you ever have to take the connection apart for repair. Properly cleaning, lubricating (with tape or pipe dope), and appropriately torquing the connection is what's most important.
hahaha You're putting the tape on wrong. Reverse the spool while winding it on.
Exactly!
And way too much teflon
Was thinking exactly the same, you get better uniform tension if you wind so the tape comes off the spool close to the threads
#FACTS
This is one of those things I figured out on my own as a kid and I find it odd that others don't think this way. Just a bit of thought and trial and error can teach so much. Great video to explain it for those who don't get it.
Also, wonder if there's other use applications for that stainless tape. Normal steel threads would gall as well.
Loctite 55 is what plumbers here use. It supposedly seals a lot more consistently.
My goto tape these days, a little more expensive but never have a failed joint, you can also back turn it slightly for an aligned figment
I moved to loctite- cracking stuff
I’ve seen that but it seems difficult to work with. Where is here?
Amateurs. Real qualified professionals use plumber's twine. It can last for centuries. Kids nowadays don't take pride in their work.
In a good number of my lawn watering systems, the hoses have rubber washers but I still get leaks. If I am using soaker hoses this reduces the pressure needed to force the water through the hose.
Thank you for this basic information. I am sure I am one of those who wrapes the wrong way. I won't anymore.
Even as a non-American it's very educating to watch these videos adressed to the average American. Where I live and work in Germany, back in the days everyone used strings made of hemp, nowadays most plumbers use Locktite/Unilock. Which is a special type of kinda pre-lubricated string that's a lot better than using hemp or even Teflon.
Teflon is mostly used for plastic threads or by DIY people buying their stuff at hardware stores.
Yes, we use plumber's twine here in South Africa 🇿🇦. It lasts forever. I could identify the handwork of my mentor from seeing the quality of his fittings, decades later. That's how a true artisan works. He was from Deutsche descent.
Good day I enjoyed the video it was informative . I've only seen twice in my life a pipe fitting sealed with clear silicone . It worked with no dripping at all . Back in the late 60's I saw a man use regular household paint on the threads to seal it .
Source on where you get the 92% statistic from?
Newbie DIY forum I posted in. I think its higher than 92% sicne many there are more advanced homeowners
2:56 if you flip the roll in your hand around the other way it makes it far easier to apply because it stays close to the fitting instead of unwinding itself when you loop it around.
It’s very common around here to put tape on and then a coat of dope
I've started doing this with my DIY jobs after seeing it on replumb's channel, works great! Belt and suspenders haha
Pipe dope is mandatory for iron and steel pipes. Also, on larger threads (like 2" and greater lines) you can skip the teflon and put a piece of string coated in dope around 2-3 threads (and no more) to do the same job. Learned that from a plumber.
Yes @ bwhog . I've been a plumber since 1988 and was a apprentice since 1979.
On boiler work ,where we used malleable iron fittings, we would coat lamp wick with pipe dope and wrap the male threads with it .
Especially , when you were connecting pipe with new threads to an existing malleable fitting . When tightening the new threads into the old fitting , the threads would cut the string to fill any voids between new pipe threads and old fitting .
Especially for gas work.
Best most efficient description with great visuals. Super helpful!
I'm 61, started using PTFE tape when it first came out (5th grade) never leaked! Been in mechanical trades my whole life. Stop with the clickbait bullshit! Very easy to use! Works every time with just a couple of wraps!
Did you even watch the video before writing? You have too much rage in your heart. The world needs more love and kindness, not more rage and anger.
@@oskjun Awe, aint you a delicate little snowflake
@@oskjun Low T bro...its a thing. 😂😭
Teflon tape is a lubricant, not a sealant. It can aid in sealing, but that's not its intent. Never was.
FYI....Thread charts usually recommend cutting NPT threads such that the pair results in a metal to metal condition in about 3 1/2 turns from first engagement. Tape is thread lubricant and is not intended to impede achieving the metal to metal condition. Therefore, it is best to use no more than three turns, skipping the first thread as you said.
I have found teflon tape in all sorts of devices during troubleshooting jobs. IT IS VERY EASY TO BE MORE TROUBLE THAN ITS WORTH in systems with small diameter passages.
Looks like you’re part of that 92%. 😂
Great advice. I been doing plumbing for decades, even high pressure hydraulic connections in the marine environment up to 6000psi. For NPT fittings, paste ("pipe dope") is also very good. Where possible though, I always to use JIS bevelled fittings, as they are bullet proof reliable and can be connected/disconnected respectively without fear of causing leaks.
I'm sorry to say, you're part of the 92% that's using it wrong. Teflon tape isn't meant to seal a joint, it's meant to lubricate the threads of a metal pipe joint allowing you to get it tighter and thus, a better seal. It's not meant for use on plastic or brass, just iron, and steel pipes. If you need to seal a joint, you need to use a thread sealant compound. I like Loctite 567 in the large toothpaste tube personally. Yes, if you wrap enough tape it will usually help to seal a joint, but it's poor workmanship. Be aware, you NEVER use Teflon tape on any kind of hydraulic joint like an automatic transmission cooler line. The tape will shed bits which get caught up in the tiny pilot passages of may valves. Even when it doesn't shed when applied, it sure will when the joint is disassembled requiring great care to make absolutely sure nothing is left. But in the real world, very few techs know any better or will take the time to clean out all the crap. It then becomes a nightmare as different valves in the system randomly stop due to the bits of Teflon tape floating around the system. I've encountered this a few times over the years in CNC machining centers and it quite frankly sucks when you're the guy that's stuck figuring it out. I've been in industrial maintenance for over 20 years and I can't say it enough: Proper tool for the job!
Also, you're holding the spool of tape backwards...
A simple (and probably naive) question: At around 4:48, it seems a steel hose is screwed on to a copper fitting. Wouln't that cause bimetal corrosion?
Excellent as usual...I see many plumbers using pipe dope on top of the tape...any thoughts?
It's just a little extra insurance against a big insurance claim. Makes it easier to tighten fittings too.
Personally I don't like dope. It hardens so that it becomes impossible to make alterations later. But if you expect the connection to be permanent, that's probably fine. It will be permanent.
@@markm8188 Pipe dope doesn't harden.
Before I installed some iron gas line I practiced with a length of pipe, end caps, an air fitting and a pressure gauge. I used tape, pressurized the pipe and waited several hours. It leaked. I used the pipe dope and repeated the test. No leak. I tried several more times. The pipe dope always worked. I was only able to get a seal using tape about 70% of the time. I used the pipe dope on the project. Zero leaks. Before you install gas lines, I suggest you practice and test the results each time.
1:00 The "Like & Subscribe" notice inside the pipe was very clever!
Not clever at all, it will impact the flow in your pipe and can clog something !
@@chrisdelaplante5515 🤣
As mentioned a few times bellow already, the tape is not a sealant, but a lubricant. It also helps the thread to not weld together overtime, especially on dissimilar metals. The side effect of having the tape (lubricant) on the thread, is that you can thread it tight and correctly, which makes the seal. So use the tape as indicated in this video, but if you're leaking, it's not the tape's fault, its' because you didn't tighten enough, or there's a problem with the thread.
I don't know why UA-cam suggested this video to me, but the tips in it are great. Thank you very much.
Glad it was helpful!
well i'm glad i saw this before doing any plumbing.
You put more tape on there than I would've expected xD
too much
Thread tape and pipe dope help, but the real tip is realizing that the threads are tapered, smaller at the beginning of the threads gradually increasing in size and getting tighter the deeper you thread the fitting together, so the real seal comes from the threads making contact with each other the tighter the fitting gets. Anything else is supplementary/ good practice
It's not just homeowners and proper application/orientation on the threads of flare fittings isn't nearly the worst problem many folks have with teflon tape. Working in the auto industry for the past twenty five years, I've seen it used on flare and compression fittings hundreds of times! Not long ago, we had a guy come in with a 69 Corvette he'd just restored himself. Every fitting in the fuel system and even worse the brake system, had the telltale white hairs hanging out of em. Really looked great on the mess of lines and fittings that feed the tri-power set up! Funny thing, he couldn't get a solid brake pedal, but somehow it didn't leak fuel... Yet! It always boggles my mind when I see these issues, since I'd like to think most people are smart enough to understand how different types of fittings seal, if they took a second to ponder it. One tip I learned many years ago, that I believe has helped me to never have leak issues with larger pipe thread fittings... My uncle taught me to use a little pipe dope along with the teflon tape. His and now my go-to is Rectum... er Rector Seal.
Tape dope is not intended to be a sealer it is made to make threads slick so you can tighten down more turns. Pipe dope and string are a sealer.
Dope is almost mostly lubricant.
No dope is the sealant. It has a high enough ptfe content to seal well. Tape is the lubricant. It has very low ptfe content (although yellow tape has more).
Seriously just google “tape vs dope” ok. Stop passing the bad info.
Wrong, do the research. It is a pipe sealer.
@@Alansdadude wrong.
@@WesB1972 WRONG do the research it’s a thread lubricant that allows the threads to seal. Do tHe rEsEarCH
i always thought you wound it reverse because as you're tightening, it can remove the tape. No idea why I thought that, to be honest. It makes sense that the tape would have less overlapping threads going the correct way. Thanks for the vid!
What most people don't understand is that Teflon tape is a "lubricant" that reduces the friction between pipe threads so that they can be properly tightened. Sealant property of the tape is added insurance.
What tape should be used when replacing gasoline hoses and nozzles at the pump?
I sometimes use both Teflon tape and pipe dope. It’s suspenders and a belt.
I worked construction for over 40 years and I saw a lot of plumbers do that. They said it made sure the fitting wouldn't leak!!
I've seen steam pipe fitters do this for removal of pipes years later it works !
Every UA-cam plumber I've seen has also used pipe dope.
That tip about not taping the first threads is a good one.
I used to work in internet datacenters. One of our company sites had an ice storm and went onto diesel generators. One of the engines shutdown, but fortunately we had another diesel generator. When the generator mechanic got there, he discovered that some teflon tape used for a fuel line wasn't put on correctly. A piece of tape was inside the line and had broken off and was caught in the fuel filter, which eventually starved the engine of fuel.
You surely dont do it often holding the tape the wrong way
Would you want to use tape when fittings are different metals (to prevent galvanic corrosion)?
Start by putting it on the right way in the thumbnail.
It is on the right way
I think your mistake will likely help me on my repair attempt this weekend. Thanks for your honesty
2:02 Do it like a pro yet does the basic common rooky mistake. LOL.
The "like & subscribe" moment was genious 🙂 Loved it, usually it's annoying in every video I watch, but here it was humorous and perfect... well done
TAPE WAS “NEVER” MEANT TO BE A SEALER, ONLY MAKE IT EASIER TO REMOVE NEXT TIME.
Finally.. the truth.
Tapered threads seal on their own.
Tip o the cap sir, or madam.
@@everettrhay4855I’m sure low pressure would be fine but as a hydraulic technician I can guarantee you absolutely need tape or preferably pipe dope on anything over 300psi idc if King Kong tightened it, it will 100 percent leak with nothing
As always you give excel-users exactly what they need : clear examples on how to benefit from the exceptional features that are availablel but not known to the majority of the users. Thank you very much.
As someone who does plumbing in aerospace applications, I use stainless steel fittings all the time with regular tape and it does not gaull. You just need to add a decent amount of tape, maybe a little superlube or krytox if it's an ox system and then just don't chimp out on it. Friction is what causes gaulling so don't tighten it that much. NPT is really good at not leaking, depending on the fitting it can hold like 6-10k psi
Same goes for plumbing compression fittings that use an olive for sealing. Dont wrap the threads, put 2-3 wraps around the olive itself if it leaks, or use a jointing compound
I use to use Teflon tape, still do sometimes, but now I moved to hemp and paste. I find they hold better and when you have to und it, it can still be used without worrying about damage to the tape.
I wish I had this video 40 years ago it would have saved me a lot of heartache as many who worked industrial maintenance had to find out by trial and error your fellow workers would rarely instruct the use of simple procedures no the new guys even if they could cost you a days work. After you plumb a production line if you used tape rather then putty and did not do as you demonstrate here you most likely will have to return as they will leak if it is steel pipe, not so much brass. I piped about 15 stations with multiple water lines for each machine from a 30' ceiling it will appear to be raining when turned on. And if you are new and think that just tightening the fitting will work depending on the size of the pipe you may just bust the fitting before it tops leaking. Smaller fittings up to an inch may not break however they will start leaking again within a few days. Hope this helps as the lesson on your own may keep you sore for a few days and if you are paying for it that really sucks.
I always knew about winding it clockwise but I didn't know about going too far forward. thanks for the tip.
Glad to help!
I would think if you wrap the tape counter clockwise, then you screw in the pipe the seal would be better because since it is creating friction. My handyman uncle did that all the time, at our home and his and customers, and never had a problem, but you're saying this is the correct way regardless of his way. Is that right? Thanks.
I found that there are two reasons to use a Teflon tape. You have already mentioned the first one - stopping leaks. Sometimes the fittings corrode a bit, especially stainless steel ones, and the two parts get stuck together making it very hard to unscrew at a future date. This is prevented if you use 2 - 3 layers of tape at all times. So, the second reason is to make it easier to unscrew if you get a bit of corrosion, and the parts tend to stick.
Superb video. Easy to follow, informative and easy to execute the process.
Also any fitting that has a bevel like a jic don’t get tape, also if you flip your roll around and unwind the roll in the opposite direction it’s a lot easier than front rolling it.
I always dope the threads after taping. Never had leaks. I also use a good tape and not the super thin tape that comes from your local hardware store. Makes a huge difference in my experience.
So if a fitting has a rubber washer then I should not use tape too? Like outside on my water hose which does have rubber washer, then I should not use the tape too? Just clarifying. Thanks! So informative. I know to wrap in same direction it will screw but 9 times outta 10 I have to redo. I think I’m directionally challenged! lol
Reverse the roll to keep tension on the tape. Also use the flange of the tape roll to wind the tape into the root of the thread.
This prevents the tape unwinding when you screw the fitting in.
I almost always use tape and then pipe dope over the tape. I think the best is Gasoila, the same brand as the tape he uses on stainless in the video. Gasoila has many different products, I use soft seal with PTFE. And just because its called Gasoila doesn't mean its only for gas. Don't over do it, using too much just makes a mess. Some plumbers will say you don't need tape + dope, and they are right, but in my 30 plus years of plumbing I have learned its the best way to avoid leaks. Also use a rag to wipe off the excess that squeezes out of the fitting. Makes it look clean and professional.
A note on the connection's with rubber gaskets, I recommend using it when the connectors are dissimilar metals. I've started using it on my hose bibs and it makes it so much easier to remove them when I need to, because it acts as a barrier for galvanic corrosion.
allo & TY very much for this knowledge on teflon tape , Question ; What tape should i use on my Rohloff IGH oil filling set screw to seal it ? i know i can just remove the old tape and apply new tape, this would prevent me from buying ready taped screws that i think i can do without save money for other parts or so. Thank you again, best regards
You don’t need tape on new pipe connections they are precise on a mm that’s less tan cm or less than inch for all American that use outdated Imperial system. You have rubber rings as sealant. In Europe it’s used as a preventative measure but mostly for patching up leaks on old connections.
As a heavy truck mechanic for over 30 years I can't tell you how many times I've seen where guys put it on compression and or flair fittings. Being that I work on a large fleet of mixers (cement trucks) I tend to need it fairly often. I just want to know what your take is for using pipe dope and any other guys that might see this comment. Also I've seen a couple videos showing that you are supposed to roll it up into a string and goes right down between the threads. Anyway ya I'm just curious to see what you and others think about it. Finally decent video and because of that I'm definitely going to go back and check out some of your videos from the past 👍🇨🇦🔧
Much more info than I thought I ever needed but now glad I have
Count me as someone who checked off on practically doing everything wrong. Thank you!
Do you guys use flax/linen tow/fiber to seal threaded connections in water pipes?
Hmm, despite your mantra of less turns, your final example shows six turns. i was taught five turns. I applaud your direction tips and start from the back. This i will follow. many thanks.
It's rare to just simply, come across a genuinely informative video. This is great
I've worked in industrial environments for the past thirty years. The Union pipefitters I work around will usually use both tape and dope on a joint with NPT threads. And no more than two turns of tape. That might be overkill for some DIY applications, but that joint will never leak.