Well, when you are putting on the tape, feed it from the bottom side of the roll ( the side closest to the threads you are taping) . Sounds petty, but if it goes from the outside to the outside like a tape cassette, then it's harder, comes off too much. Flip the tape so it spools off from the side closest, the inside, to the outside of the threads, less frustration and a better job because it's tight.
When applying teflon tape (or even electrical tape) in close quarters, you can roll tape onto something small and round. Such as screw driver, pencil, ratchet socket. This makes a small roll you can apply tape easier.
As a 45 yr as a plumber, I’d like to offer a game changer fir you. Turn yiur tape around so when putting on it will help keep pressure on fitting. If the thread diameter is smaller than the roll diameter it will unroll in yiur hand. Either way, using roll other way let’s yiu control the tape easier. Other than that great video, and I too can’t stress DO NOT PUT TAPE ON THE FIRST THREADS. Your absolutely right the tape will get into the plumbing.
Its because in one direction you are winding the spool thus generating tension in the teflon by the opposing forces created by the pivot point between the 2 objects. The opposite direction unwinds the spool and changes the pivot point, adding more tape and negating any tension. The spool doesn't care about the size of the thread, we are the ones creating the pivot point by the friction we apply with our fingers (if you just put the roll of tape on a screwdriver and dont touch it the roll of tape will still unravel). Edit : but yeah, really odd the guy giving tips seems oblivious to the most practical method of application xD)
You're holding the roll of tape backwards. Flip the roll so the tape is being dispensed from the the other side and you'll find it's much easier to control the tension.
I have hung MILES of pipe in chemical plants. "Flipping" the roll over as described above does indeed help you with tension on the tape as well as better control of the wrap... and it is the only way many chemical companies want their pipes wrapped. I would say that means a bit.
I've been a pipe fitter for over 20 years and have never used a special thread tape for Stainless. I've used your normal PTFE brand whether in a white, red or, blue cover and the tape is either white or blue for all normal fittings. We use paste or yellow tape depending on the chemicals that run through the pipe. Many different kinds of PTFE pastes are also used. I also was taught to hold the tape 180° different from how it is being held in this video. This allows me to control the tension then putting on the tape especially if the pipe is smaller than the roll, you don't need to keep on manually spinning the toll to build tension, just hold the roll to build tension and have it pull past the friction to tension the tape automatically. You are virtually making an S with the Roll, tape and tape roll instead of a C as seen in this videol
I was repairing where someone used a black pipe fitting on a water heater. It was totally dissolving the black pipe fitting. Seen the stainless counterpart at the store and thought it was a great idea. I could not for the life of me get it to seal. I tried variations of paste, different thicknesses of tape, & different number of wraps with the tape. Came to the conclusion that the stainless was too hard and slick to couple with a galvanized pipe being that galvanized and brass was a softer metal that will bend to each other. Was this not the case?
I came to say the exact same thing with the holding and applying of the tape. Poke a finger in the spool and use your fingers to create the tension. You can wrap super fast this way.
Thanks for bringing up ptfe paste. Just had an issue with teflon tape with a new dishwasher elbow and learned about ptfe paste/ dope. Seems to be a much better solution for most applications.
I work at a plant whee we use a lot of stainless and consider stainless bolts to be single-use because we have to cut them off due to galling. Lubricants containing sulfur help protect against that. I'm guessing that is what is in the streaks. You be you, but I prefer not to cut fittings off because they won't loosen.
That was a great way to mention "Like and Subscribe". Not even a pause, no wasted time, just a simple easter egg. Been watching several of your vids, time to sub.
When I use teflon tape, I run the tape clockwise, as per your video, but...I run it "backwards" from the spool. This helps me control the unrolling better, while keeping tension on the tape; and if I do have a fumble-fingers episode, it's much easier to recover than if you're running it forward off the spool, and if you drop it, it's liable to roll 10 feet away, unspooling as it goes.
That's how a lot of plumbers do it... It's how I was taught... Every now and then I "flip" my roll out by accident and it bugs the crap outta me trying to keep it from rolling out while I roll
Something I learned early on from an experienced commercial plumber and has never failed me is to use tape and sealant...my preferred combo is Teflon tape and Rector Seal No.5...that has been for natural gas and/or propane gas both low and high pressure...and anything else that is held under pressure in a pipe with threaded connections...the only failures i have experienced were manufacturing defects in fittings, pipe, and equipment...
Here are the two plumbing tricks that have made my life easier: 1. At the hardware store, buy way more parts, and of different types and sizes, than you think you'll need for a project. This saves repeated trips to the store, and you can always return what you didn't use. I now have a mini plumbing department in the garage ... 2. Because a pick axe can be used to locate buried sprinkler pipes, keep plenty of repair pieces on-hand, along with the necessary tools and solvents.
I always buy double fittings. Whatever I figure I need, I buy double. Within reason. I can return what I don't use or keep it for the next project/emergency.
That's a pretty good idea. I have three 5-gallon buckets of extra fitting in my storage shed. 1/2, 3/4 and 1 inch. Also have a hardware store 1/2 mile from my house that specializes in plumbing and irrigation parts. Just know that if you are going to the work of digging ditches, adding to your irrigation system or maintaining it that you will be better off in the long run by buying quality, commercial grade components. The stuff they sell at convenience stores like Home Depot is made in China and is absolute junk.
To a certain extent, the color is to indicate to the inspector that a sealant tape has been used, and is compliant for the application. For example, gas inspectors will look for yellow. White tape is not rated for gas or propane. I use the D. N. Group Enterprise pink tape for almost everything as it's rated for propane, natural gas, water, most chemicals, hydraulic lines, air, and sewage lines, for metal and plastic up to 1.5" diameter. Another good brand is Gasoila. However, unlike the D. N. Group pink tape, Gasolia pink tape is only rated for water.
Listen to what you hear on UA-cam with a grain of salt. Just avoid having the thread hanging around the hole. Avoiding the first 2 threads is something that I've never seen done working the trade for 20 years. He also holds the tape wrong in the video which is actually annoying to anyone that uses this for a living.
I have never had leaks because i used a metal brush on plastic threads. For the folks that don't like to use teflon use hemp with grease (special grease for that) a bit tricky to use especially for smaller threads but by far the most reliable thread sealer because it also can seal when you move the thread by up to 45 degrees after thighten. This is the go to for most of Heating, Waterpipe worker here in switzerland.
@@davidgagnon2849 Switzerland is an quite conservative country especially amongs workforce. So the Hemp is the good'ol style which works really well till very high temperatures and you can move it even till about 90 Degrees and it will still seal. Its a bit tricky to apply at first. The Teflon Thread style not the thin one is pretty good aswell as i found out with some time.
Same here in Austria. I have seen pipes being replaced which were survived at least one world war, and they still were completely sealed. I think in the U.S. people never heard about hemp.
natural hemp rope is only correct way how to do it, I don't know how in other countries or continents, but here in Czechia, everyone uses hemp rope and nothing else, rarely some special glue for threads, but never some plastic tape, that's bizzare
Even as a non-American it's very educating to watch these videos adressed to the average American. Where I live and work in Germany, back in the days everyone used strings made of hemp, nowadays most plumbers use Locktite/Unilock. Which is a special type of kinda pre-lubricated string that's a lot better than using hemp or even Teflon. Teflon is mostly used for plastic threads or by DIY people buying their stuff at hardware stores.
Yes, we use plumber's twine here in South Africa 🇿🇦. It lasts forever. I could identify the handwork of my mentor from seeing the quality of his fittings, decades later. That's how a true artisan works. He was from Deutsche descent.
Just remember number 5 is oil based and should not be used on any plastic pipe. It doesn't need Teflon tape . Most plumbers now use Teflon tape and T+2 pipe thread sealant. These products are very pipe type specific . Black iron and galvanized usually use the vibration proof sealant.
@@JacquelineDoughert You should read the label on the can sometime... it says its good for use on plastic pipe also. Been using this stuff for decades. RectorSeal #5
2:56 if you flip the roll in your hand around the other way it makes it far easier to apply because it stays close to the fitting instead of unwinding itself when you loop it around.
I thought Teflon tape was not for sealing. I thought Teflon tape was used to decrease friction resistance so you can properly tighten metal fittings to the pipes by FULLY engaging the threads and being able to make them properly tight.
That’s correct. Dope is for sealing. Also the white tape especially has very little ptfe. It’s not good at sealing. There are tapes with more like the tan tapes, but you should use dope to seal.
@@bigmacdaddy1234 he thought right. There’s tons of resistance try to thread an old garden hose. Try it with tape. Which is harder. Even better just google “tape vs dope”. Go ahead we’ll wait. Who’s the dope now?
I am a DIY'er so I've gotten to know my local plumbing supply guys pretty well. I was getting ready to install some plumbing in my underground well house where several valves, pumps, and a couple of pressure tanks are going to live. I asked my buddies at Peterson's Plumbing in Cedar City UT which is better, paste or tape. He said both. He recommended I use a few wraps of tape and then apply paste over it. Been doing that ever since with no problems and a decent amount of peace of mind.
Former old school LPF here who worked on just about every type of pipe or tubing known to man. Couple of points. Any time we were doing malleable, carbon steel or even forged fittings with Teflon tape we would also use never seez (liquid graphite). NEVER had a leak with this combo but it’s not for every application. Whenever you’re using the hose fittings you described or anything with a rubber seal I now use silicon lube or grease on the rubber parts. Same success rate.
Same here, I've always put either a dab of anti-seize or dope behind the engagement threads on anything that may need to come apart for maintenance. It doesn't screw with the seal but keeps everything healthy enough to minimize seizing later on.
Before I installed some iron gas line I practiced with a length of pipe, end caps, an air fitting and a pressure gauge. I used tape, pressurized the pipe and waited several hours. It leaked. I used the pipe dope and repeated the test. No leak. I tried several more times. The pipe dope always worked. I was only able to get a seal using tape about 70% of the time. I used the pipe dope on the project. Zero leaks. Before you install gas lines, I suggest you practice and test the results each time.
I have seen home owners apply teflon tape to outside of already assembled fitting. I have seen this like 4 times now.. You are holding teflon tape backward. Hold tape with top of the roll against thread. This will allow you to apply tape easier .
if you are installing fittings into a cast iron pump housing be careful not to over tighten. You lose the feel for tightness with Teflon tape and if you over tighten it could be costly.
FYI....Thread charts usually recommend cutting NPT threads such that the pair results in a metal to metal condition in about 3 1/2 turns from first engagement. Tape is thread lubricant and is not intended to impede achieving the metal to metal condition. Therefore, it is best to use no more than three turns, skipping the first thread as you said. I have found teflon tape in all sorts of devices during troubleshooting jobs. IT IS VERY EASY TO BE MORE TROUBLE THAN ITS WORTH in systems with small diameter passages.
I have been using stainless steel tubing fittings for over 45 years. 1/4”-2”. I have only used USA made PTFE thread tape. I make 2-4 wraps and I have never had one leak even though they were subjected to THOUSANDS of pounds of pressure.
Over 20 years a Pipefitter and this is the first time I've heard of this stainless steel specific tape. He is also holding the tape roll backwards in the video.
I may be wrong, but I'm thinking the special tape he mentions for stainless steel may only be necessary whenever you are connecting those fittings to regular steel or cast iron and whenever water is flowing through them. I think it's to prevent galvanic corrosion. If you ever left something iron sitting on a stainless steel surface and it rained upon it, you'll see the contact with the stainless actually accelerates rusting.
I use blue monster, but I cover the first two threads. Helps protect from gaulding. 4 wraps total. Lots or pressure, heat and overall abuse in the steel industry. Never had a leak... ever
This is one of those things I figured out on my own as a kid and I find it odd that others don't think this way. Just a bit of thought and trial and error can teach so much. Great video to explain it for those who don't get it. Also, wonder if there's other use applications for that stainless tape. Normal steel threads would gall as well.
I have never used more than two layers of Teflon tape on any tapered fitting, and I've rarely had leaks on high-pressure gas or vacuum.If the threads have been properly machined, the metal on metal seal is usually sufficient. I've always assumed that the Teflon is mostly there to make it easier to tighten and loosen the fitting, i.e. to prevent the threads from galling.
Came here to type this lol. Also to say for plastic fittings (especially metal on plastic) just use pipe dope, less chance of cracking the plastic fitting.
That tip about not taping the first threads is a good one. I used to work in internet datacenters. One of our company sites had an ice storm and went onto diesel generators. One of the engines shutdown, but fortunately we had another diesel generator. When the generator mechanic got there, he discovered that some teflon tape used for a fuel line wasn't put on correctly. A piece of tape was inside the line and had broken off and was caught in the fuel filter, which eventually starved the engine of fuel.
Sometimes you can't fit the spool of tape into the space where the fitting is. Cutting off a section of tape to wrap it by hand sometimes works but is often a PITA. Instead, re-wrap the tape from the spool onto the end of a pencil, and you have a smaller spool on a long handle to reach in and tape the threads.
2-3 layers wrapped in the right direction, and ya, skip the tapered edges & prep/cleaning is important. I remodeled for about 20 Years, I've done a lot of work with this stuff. Never put it on backwards and you should very rarely go beyond 3 layers. Really great tips, you explained even more points that I wouldn't have thought to (it's sort of like muscle memory, you just don't think of the small details when doing the work regularly after a while)!
I add dope to my taped joints. Helps fill any imperfections and isn't much more work to add. I do also add tape to my garden fittings. I've had some lower quality ones leak with new gaskets, so the tape and dope solves that issue. Mostly saves me from redoing the job multiple times.
@@MichaelCampbell01 I usually only use dope on metal joints especially on gas lines. I prefer teflon tape when going from plastic to metal or plastic to plastic, I've found dope doesn't do very well on plastic fittings but that's just my preference. I've seen quite a few people using both dope and teflon tape, I've tried it once or twice, but meh, just use the pipe dope with the teflon particles in it, works for me. I don't see the need for both tape and dope. I worked with an old scottish dude once, and he insisted on steam lines to use both tape and dope, but I don't do any steam piping anymore.
Pipe joint sealers, tape or dope help to deduce friction to allow assembly. In a perfect world we wouldn't need these things as a properly cut thread will not leak. Using dope and tape is in my opinion is over kill. There is not enough clearance between the surfaces so most of it gets squeezed out of the joint. Can cause other issues too such as cracked fittings, contamination inside the piping.
@vaughncadney7087 Plus, if you are also bonding parts in the same room, liquid Teflon on bonding surfaces is a very bad thing. In such situations, use the tape on tapered thread fittings or move that operation to another room.
It's not just homeowners and proper application/orientation on the threads of flare fittings isn't nearly the worst problem many folks have with teflon tape. Working in the auto industry for the past twenty five years, I've seen it used on flare and compression fittings hundreds of times! Not long ago, we had a guy come in with a 69 Corvette he'd just restored himself. Every fitting in the fuel system and even worse the brake system, had the telltale white hairs hanging out of em. Really looked great on the mess of lines and fittings that feed the tri-power set up! Funny thing, he couldn't get a solid brake pedal, but somehow it didn't leak fuel... Yet! It always boggles my mind when I see these issues, since I'd like to think most people are smart enough to understand how different types of fittings seal, if they took a second to ponder it. One tip I learned many years ago, that I believe has helped me to never have leak issues with larger pipe thread fittings... My uncle taught me to use a little pipe dope along with the teflon tape. His and now my go-to is Rectum... er Rector Seal.
Excellent and very informative video! Another common mistake I see as a scientist (where Teflon is used on inert gas lines) is Teflon being used on fittings that aren't NPT fittings. If a compression fitting is leaky, Teflon isn't going to fix it. I have also heard that Teflon shouldn't be used on hydraulic fittings. Is that true? I didn't see any on the old threads when I changed a hydraulic line on a front end loader.
What most people don't understand is that Teflon tape is a "lubricant" that reduces the friction between pipe threads so that they can be properly tightened. Sealant property of the tape is added insurance.
Thread tape and pipe dope help, but the real tip is realizing that the threads are tapered, smaller at the beginning of the threads gradually increasing in size and getting tighter the deeper you thread the fitting together, so the real seal comes from the threads making contact with each other the tighter the fitting gets. Anything else is supplementary/ good practice
Good day I enjoyed the video it was informative . I've only seen twice in my life a pipe fitting sealed with clear silicone . It worked with no dripping at all . Back in the late 60's I saw a man use regular household paint on the threads to seal it .
5:00 Disagree. The tape is still useful even when not being used as a seal. By providing separation between the two metal surfaces, it prevents adhesion/fusion of the two surfaces due to things like oxidation, galvanic corrosion, etc. It also reduces friction, making the two threads assemble and later disassemble. It's solid lubricant.
i always thought you wound it reverse because as you're tightening, it can remove the tape. No idea why I thought that, to be honest. It makes sense that the tape would have less overlapping threads going the correct way. Thanks for the vid!
I wish I had this video 40 years ago it would have saved me a lot of heartache as many who worked industrial maintenance had to find out by trial and error your fellow workers would rarely instruct the use of simple procedures no the new guys even if they could cost you a days work. After you plumb a production line if you used tape rather then putty and did not do as you demonstrate here you most likely will have to return as they will leak if it is steel pipe, not so much brass. I piped about 15 stations with multiple water lines for each machine from a 30' ceiling it will appear to be raining when turned on. And if you are new and think that just tightening the fitting will work depending on the size of the pipe you may just bust the fitting before it tops leaking. Smaller fittings up to an inch may not break however they will start leaking again within a few days. Hope this helps as the lesson on your own may keep you sore for a few days and if you are paying for it that really sucks.
Pipe dope is mandatory for iron and steel pipes. Also, on larger threads (like 2" and greater lines) you can skip the teflon and put a piece of string coated in dope around 2-3 threads (and no more) to do the same job. Learned that from a plumber.
Yes @ bwhog . I've been a plumber since 1988 and was a apprentice since 1979. On boiler work ,where we used malleable iron fittings, we would coat lamp wick with pipe dope and wrap the male threads with it . Especially , when you were connecting pipe with new threads to an existing malleable fitting . When tightening the new threads into the old fitting , the threads would cut the string to fill any voids between new pipe threads and old fitting .
In a good number of my lawn watering systems, the hoses have rubber washers but I still get leaks. If I am using soaker hoses this reduces the pressure needed to force the water through the hose. Thank you for this basic information. I am sure I am one of those who wrapes the wrong way. I won't anymore.
As mentioned a few times bellow already, the tape is not a sealant, but a lubricant. It also helps the thread to not weld together overtime, especially on dissimilar metals. The side effect of having the tape (lubricant) on the thread, is that you can thread it tight and correctly, which makes the seal. So use the tape as indicated in this video, but if you're leaking, it's not the tape's fault, its' because you didn't tighten enough, or there's a problem with the thread.
Personally I don't like dope. It hardens so that it becomes impossible to make alterations later. But if you expect the connection to be permanent, that's probably fine. It will be permanent.
As a heavy truck mechanic for over 30 years I can't tell you how many times I've seen where guys put it on compression and or flair fittings. Being that I work on a large fleet of mixers (cement trucks) I tend to need it fairly often. I just want to know what your take is for using pipe dope and any other guys that might see this comment. Also I've seen a couple videos showing that you are supposed to roll it up into a string and goes right down between the threads. Anyway ya I'm just curious to see what you and others think about it. Finally decent video and because of that I'm definitely going to go back and check out some of your videos from the past 👍🇨🇦🔧
I'm sorry to say, you're part of the 92% that's using it wrong. Teflon tape isn't meant to seal a joint, it's meant to lubricate the threads of a metal pipe joint allowing you to get it tighter and thus, a better seal. It's not meant for use on plastic or brass, just iron, and steel pipes. If you need to seal a joint, you need to use a thread sealant compound. I like Loctite 567 in the large toothpaste tube personally. Yes, if you wrap enough tape it will usually help to seal a joint, but it's poor workmanship. Be aware, you NEVER use Teflon tape on any kind of hydraulic joint like an automatic transmission cooler line. The tape will shed bits which get caught up in the tiny pilot passages of may valves. Even when it doesn't shed when applied, it sure will when the joint is disassembled requiring great care to make absolutely sure nothing is left. But in the real world, very few techs know any better or will take the time to clean out all the crap. It then becomes a nightmare as different valves in the system randomly stop due to the bits of Teflon tape floating around the system. I've encountered this a few times over the years in CNC machining centers and it quite frankly sucks when you're the guy that's stuck figuring it out. I've been in industrial maintenance for over 20 years and I can't say it enough: Proper tool for the job! Also, you're holding the spool of tape backwards...
I took part in a 3-year training program at an international company. I studied 40 hours a week and received money to get a certificate that I was qualified for the job. Further training and education to the same level of qualification as a Master's degree. I spent a year learning about piping, both practically and theoretically. I had to design a chemical plant using technical construction drawings. As well as all the supply lines for cooling and heating from low pressure lines up to 30 bar steam lines. I also had to assemble these practically and they were tested for function. I don't think I've ever had a problem with something not being leak-proof.
I'm 61, started using PTFE tape when it first came out (5th grade) never leaked! Been in mechanical trades my whole life. Stop with the clickbait bullshit! Very easy to use! Works every time with just a couple of wraps!
I almost always use tape and then pipe dope over the tape. I think the best is Gasoila, the same brand as the tape he uses on stainless in the video. Gasoila has many different products, I use soft seal with PTFE. And just because its called Gasoila doesn't mean its only for gas. Don't over do it, using too much just makes a mess. Some plumbers will say you don't need tape + dope, and they are right, but in my 30 plus years of plumbing I have learned its the best way to avoid leaks. Also use a rag to wipe off the excess that squeezes out of the fitting. Makes it look clean and professional.
I was a gas fitter for close to 40 years. I’m sure this is just a personal preference but when taping threads the only difference I did was rather than wrapping using the inside of the tape, I flipped the roll 180 degrees and put it on using the outside. This made it not only easier to put it on, but also easier to put it on tighter. It also made it easier to tear off as you could hold it tight to the threads when tearing.
I had a good friend that was the safety officer at the local power plant. Teflon tape was not allowed on anything at the plant. He would confiscate it all the time. He said the issue was it was never applied properly and it would get into the pipe and contaminate things. So your tip on the first few threads being left exposed is valid. The other thing he said was ONLY ONE WRAP. More would cause issues. I am sure all the fittings there were in pristine shape compared to most plumbing jobs. The cool thing was every time I saw him I got free tape he had confiscated. I have not seen him in 40 years and still have some left in my stash.
As plumbers, we’d use two layers of Teflon followed by pipe dope. The sprinkler fitters would use pipe dope followed by two layers of Teflon. My strong opinion, backed up by years of successful installations, is that Teflon by itself is an inferior sealant. It allows you to tighten further, which is advantageous, but does not fill imperfections in fittings well. It’s great for subsequent disassembly. You want a trouble free seal? Use Permatex 300 and assemble tightly - all the force you can exert, a foot of wrench per inch of pipe diameter. You ever think you’d want it apart? Do not use Permatex 300. Teflon and Rectorseal 5 is still my favorite.
No dope is the sealant. It has a high enough ptfe content to seal well. Tape is the lubricant. It has very low ptfe content (although yellow tape has more). Seriously just google “tape vs dope” ok. Stop passing the bad info.
So when you say 2-3 wraps only you mean 2-3 layers thick? Because what you showed was like 8 wraps but all in all about 3 layers thick across all threads but the entry threads.
As someone who does plumbing in aerospace applications, I use stainless steel fittings all the time with regular tape and it does not gaull. You just need to add a decent amount of tape, maybe a little superlube or krytox if it's an ox system and then just don't chimp out on it. Friction is what causes gaulling so don't tighten it that much. NPT is really good at not leaking, depending on the fitting it can hold like 6-10k psi
@@everettrhay4855I’m sure low pressure would be fine but as a hydraulic technician I can guarantee you absolutely need tape or preferably pipe dope on anything over 300psi idc if King Kong tightened it, it will 100 percent leak with nothing
Great advice. I been doing plumbing for decades, even high pressure hydraulic connections in the marine environment up to 6000psi. For NPT fittings, paste ("pipe dope") is also very good. Where possible though, I always to use JIS bevelled fittings, as they are bullet proof reliable and can be connected/disconnected respectively without fear of causing leaks.
Hmm, despite your mantra of less turns, your final example shows six turns. i was taught five turns. I applaud your direction tips and start from the back. This i will follow. many thanks.
You’re right. I spliced high voltage cable for 16 years and in the early days we taped all our splices(15 and 35kv). If you throw tape as shown in the video, you can’t stretch the tape and pull it tight because you’re fighting the slack in the tape. I see “experts” throwing tape on electrical UA-cam videos the wrong way all the time.
The important thing to remember is the tape, or pipe dope if you use that, is a lubricant to create the best mechanical seal you can achieve with the precisely cut and angled threads on your fittings. The mechanical connections between those threads is what's going to give you the longest lasting (or permanent) seal. The tape or pipe dope you use is going to allow you to drive as many threads together as possible because it reduces friction. And, it will also help if you ever have to take the connection apart for repair. Properly cleaning, lubricating (with tape or pipe dope), and appropriately torquing the connection is what's most important.
Reverse the roll to keep tension on the tape. Also use the flange of the tape roll to wind the tape into the root of the thread. This prevents the tape unwinding when you screw the fitting in.
I love these 'pro tip' videos that get it wrong. Its pretty important to hold the tape on the reel the other way round, then you can more easily keep the tape in tension. I'm surprised to see it done wrong in the video as any professional knows the right way to do it.
Yes, you need tape on garden hose fittings. When using 2 different metal fittings, they fuse. The tape helps them from fusing and easily disconnecting hose fittings.
In this country, for water pipes, hemp is used. First, you apply a thin layer of a sealing compound, and into that layer you put in some hemp fibres. The idea is that the fibres soak up the compound (or maybe even any water that should seep through, if I remember correctly), swell, and literally create a watertight seal. And it works, I have seen pipes being replaced that have been installed generations ago (meaning 50, 70 or more years ago), and the hemp still kept them completely sealed.
I was in charge of air lines among my constellation of responsibilities. I had assistants who agreed with me and universally thought little of Teflon tape. Always going back to redo for leaks. We went back to paste and never any more trouble with leaks.
A note on the connection's with rubber gaskets, I recommend using it when the connectors are dissimilar metals. I've started using it on my hose bibs and it makes it so much easier to remove them when I need to, because it acts as a barrier for galvanic corrosion.
I've always had great success by gently seating the tape into the fitting threads with my fingernail. This helps prevent the tape from spinning as the mating part is assembled onto the fitting. Also, I avoid using the thinnest tape, which tends to tear very easily. Side note: I typically wind a commercial or military-grade Teflon tape 2x around the fitting.
The best use I found for PTFE tape is when the compression gland on stoptap or radiator valve leaks you can remove the compression nut, twist the PTFE tape into a thin cord and wrap it around the stem, push it into the gap with a thin screwdriver and then refit the compression nut. the tape is pushed down and compressed and stops the leak.
Actually used a regular tape on old steel fittings. The trick is to break the "don't cover first treads" rule and do the opposite - make a small skirt and bend it a bit inwards to wrap the metal (which is on a new fitting and often sharp). So when you screw it in, the skirt contacts with the seal and protects the seal from slight imperfections in metal. Worked for me so far. Couldn't accomplish without a tape and didn't know of any better methods at the time.
I always dope the threads after taping. Never had leaks. I also use a good tape and not the super thin tape that comes from your local hardware store. Makes a huge difference in my experience.
also, to point out that the primary purpose of the tape isn't to "seal", the tapered threads themselves is what provides the main seal, the tape is a lubricant to allow you to threat it a bit tighter, as well as loosen it when you need to. Sure it "fills in the gaps" to completely seal it, but thats also where it provides the lubrication.
Same goes for plumbing compression fittings that use an olive for sealing. Dont wrap the threads, put 2-3 wraps around the olive itself if it leaks, or use a jointing compound
Nicely done! I'm only talking about the title and thumbnail. I automatically hit do not recommend channel to anything saying you're doing it wrong and your thoughtful titling made my cut, I admire your restraint and I may see more of your videos in my feed. I' l even toss in a like even though I didn't watch.
One major mistake most people make is pulling the tape too strongly as they wrap it, to the point where it shrivels into a thin rope. It should be flat across the threads with just enough tension to grip them.😮
I've actually used a "Reverse threads" fitting. It was a six-inch nipple with regular thread at one end, and a reverse on the other (plus a matching coupler). It joined two sections of plumbing, and allowed me to tighten both joints simultaneously by wrenching the nipple. It was a standard part, purchased from a pro shop--which surprised me, because I keep finding myself in situations where I am apparently the first to have ever encountered them. This was not one of them.
What plumbing tricks have made your life easier?
Pro-press 🤣
Hire a pro. Pay the $$. Let them handle it. It's well worth the expense. (And, no, I'm not a plumber.)
@@PJam2019 Pro press has taken a lot of problems out of plumbing work, what a blessing.
Well, when you are putting on the tape, feed it from the bottom side of the roll ( the side closest to the threads you are taping) . Sounds petty, but if it goes from the outside to the outside like a tape cassette, then it's harder, comes off too much. Flip the tape so it spools off from the side closest, the inside, to the outside of the threads, less frustration and a better job because it's tight.
When applying teflon tape (or even electrical tape) in close quarters, you can roll tape onto something small and round. Such as screw driver, pencil, ratchet socket. This makes a small roll you can apply tape easier.
As a 45 yr as a plumber, I’d like to offer a game changer fir you. Turn yiur tape around so when putting on it will help keep pressure on fitting. If the thread diameter is smaller than the roll diameter it will unroll in yiur hand. Either way, using roll other way let’s yiu control the tape easier. Other than that great video, and I too can’t stress DO NOT PUT TAPE ON THE FIRST THREADS. Your absolutely right the tape will get into the plumbing.
Was going to suggest the same thing an old plumber's tip.
Yeah that was painfull 😅
Its because in one direction you are winding the spool thus generating tension in the teflon by the opposing forces created by the pivot point between the 2 objects. The opposite direction unwinds the spool and changes the pivot point, adding more tape and negating any tension. The spool doesn't care about the size of the thread, we are the ones creating the pivot point by the friction we apply with our fingers (if you just put the roll of tape on a screwdriver and dont touch it the roll of tape will still unravel).
Edit : but yeah, really odd the guy giving tips seems oblivious to the most practical method of application xD)
You are put it on wrong the roll is going the wrong way
As a sun of a plumber who spet his summer vacations helping dad, that also hurt my eyes and brains:) looks so awkward to put it on this way
You're holding the roll of tape backwards. Flip the roll so the tape is being dispensed from the the other side and you'll find it's much easier to control the tension.
Beard good mullet bad! 😬
That's a matter of preference
I have hung MILES of pipe in chemical plants. "Flipping" the roll over as described above does indeed help you with tension on the tape as well as better control of the wrap... and it is the only way many chemical companies want their pipes wrapped. I would say that means a bit.
@@torpedohippo8493no.its not,,, proper pipe fitters n plumbers are trained to do it that way as its putting it on with no potential for slack
@@TheDigger06 dude, there's no slack the other way either, if you do it properly... It's a matter of preference.
I've been a pipe fitter for over 20 years and have never used a special thread tape for Stainless. I've used your normal PTFE brand whether in a white, red or, blue cover and the tape is either white or blue for all normal fittings. We use paste or yellow tape depending on the chemicals that run through the pipe. Many different kinds of PTFE pastes are also used.
I also was taught to hold the tape 180° different from how it is being held in this video. This allows me to control the tension then putting on the tape especially if the pipe is smaller than the roll, you don't need to keep on manually spinning the toll to build tension, just hold the roll to build tension and have it pull past the friction to tension the tape automatically. You are virtually making an S with the Roll, tape and tape roll instead of a C as seen in this videol
I was repairing where someone used a black pipe fitting on a water heater. It was totally dissolving the black pipe fitting. Seen the stainless counterpart at the store and thought it was a great idea. I could not for the life of me get it to seal. I tried variations of paste, different thicknesses of tape, & different number of wraps with the tape. Came to the conclusion that the stainless was too hard and slick to couple with a galvanized pipe being that galvanized and brass was a softer metal that will bend to each other. Was this not the case?
I came to say the exact same thing with the holding and applying of the tape. Poke a finger in the spool and use your fingers to create the tension. You can wrap super fast this way.
If you want quality work and real value always go union. Cheap isn’t.
Thanks for bringing up ptfe paste. Just had an issue with teflon tape with a new dishwasher elbow and learned about ptfe paste/ dope. Seems to be a much better solution for most applications.
I work at a plant whee we use a lot of stainless and consider stainless bolts to be single-use because we have to cut them off due to galling. Lubricants containing sulfur help protect against that. I'm guessing that is what is in the streaks. You be you, but I prefer not to cut fittings off because they won't loosen.
That was a great way to mention "Like and Subscribe". Not even a pause, no wasted time, just a simple easter egg. Been watching several of your vids, time to sub.
I really appreciate that, welcome aboard.
When I use teflon tape, I run the tape clockwise, as per your video, but...I run it "backwards" from the spool. This helps me control the unrolling better, while keeping tension on the tape; and if I do have a fumble-fingers episode, it's much easier to recover than if you're running it forward off the spool, and if you drop it, it's liable to roll 10 feet away, unspooling as it goes.
Yeah, he's actually unwinding the roll in the wrong direction. You're doing it correctly. It makes it easier to handle.
That is exactly what my thoughts was when I first look at it.
That's how a lot of plumbers do it... It's how I was taught...
Every now and then I "flip" my roll out by accident and it bugs the crap outta me trying to keep it from rolling out while I roll
I do the same
I do the same
How'd you arrive at 92%?
You stop right before 93%
Source: Trust me, Bro
xD I love some of the stuff I read on the Internet.
92% of statistics found on the internet were made up on the spot
Sources: Voices of his head.
Something I learned early on from an experienced commercial plumber and has never failed me is to use tape and sealant...my preferred combo is Teflon tape and Rector Seal No.5...that has been for natural gas and/or propane gas both low and high pressure...and anything else that is held under pressure in a pipe with threaded connections...the only failures i have experienced were manufacturing defects in fittings, pipe, and equipment...
Flip your tape over when you're wrapping it, it'll change your life.
I saw that I kinda freaked out. Flip that role over for easier installation
Yeah this guy is a rookie
@@SwagBar that was my thought..... he's talking like he's a pro, but that's rookie mistake...
@@SwagBara rookie with 3.6M views on 1 video 892k subs 38k likes 👍🏼 one 1️⃣ video. Doing something right, although I agree with y’all
U beat me to it
Here are the two plumbing tricks that have made my life easier:
1. At the hardware store, buy way more parts, and of different types and sizes, than you think you'll need for a project. This saves repeated trips to the store, and you can always return what you didn't use. I now have a mini plumbing department in the garage ...
2. Because a pick axe can be used to locate buried sprinkler pipes, keep plenty of repair pieces on-hand, along with the necessary tools and solvents.
I always buy double fittings. Whatever I figure I need, I buy double. Within reason. I can return what I don't use or keep it for the next project/emergency.
That's a pretty good idea. I have three 5-gallon buckets of extra fitting in my storage shed. 1/2, 3/4 and 1 inch. Also have a hardware store 1/2 mile from my house that specializes in plumbing and irrigation parts. Just know that if you are going to the work of digging ditches, adding to your irrigation system or maintaining it that you will be better off in the long run by buying quality, commercial grade components. The stuff they sell at convenience stores like Home Depot is made in China and is absolute junk.
Buying an item with the intent of returning is kinda a duck move
‘Pick axe buried pipe detector’ 😂
I think I've had plumbers do that and then charge me for all of them.
I switched to pipe dope years ago for all my amateur plumbing projects. Haven’t had a leak in years. It’s messy but worth it
To a certain extent, the color is to indicate to the inspector that a sealant tape has been used, and is compliant for the application. For example, gas inspectors will look for yellow. White tape is not rated for gas or propane. I use the D. N. Group Enterprise pink tape for almost everything as it's rated for propane, natural gas, water, most chemicals, hydraulic lines, air, and sewage lines, for metal and plastic up to 1.5" diameter. Another good brand is Gasoila. However, unlike the D. N. Group pink tape, Gasolia pink tape is only rated for water.
Gas tape is white but comes on a yellow reel. How does the inspector know what colour reel it came off?
I knew about the proper direction and the 2-3 layers, but never knew to avoid the 1st 2 threads. Thanks for the informative video!
Listen to what you hear on UA-cam with a grain of salt. Just avoid having the thread hanging around the hole. Avoiding the first 2 threads is something that I've never seen done working the trade for 20 years. He also holds the tape wrong in the video which is actually annoying to anyone that uses this for a living.
I knew enough not to put tape over the end of the pipe, but it did not know the leave the last two threads bare trick. Thank you sir!
I have never had leaks because i used a metal brush on plastic threads. For the folks that don't like to use teflon use hemp with grease (special grease for that) a bit tricky to use especially for smaller threads but by far the most reliable thread sealer because it also can seal when you move the thread by up to 45 degrees after thighten. This is the go to for most of Heating, Waterpipe worker here in switzerland.
Cos of the quality of Teflon tapes and strength (cuts) of Iron pipes in the Balkans, the hemp with grease is the best solution.
As an American DIYer all my life, I've never heard about using a hemp product in the threads except here in the comments.
@@davidgagnon2849 Switzerland is an quite conservative country especially amongs workforce. So the Hemp is the good'ol style which works really well till very high temperatures and you can move it even till about 90 Degrees and it will still seal. Its a bit tricky to apply at first. The Teflon Thread style not the thin one is pretty good aswell as i found out with some time.
Same here in Austria. I have seen pipes being replaced which were survived at least one world war, and they still were completely sealed. I think in the U.S. people never heard about hemp.
natural hemp rope is only correct way how to do it, I don't know how in other countries or continents, but here in Czechia, everyone uses hemp rope and nothing else, rarely some special glue for threads, but never some plastic tape, that's bizzare
Love the useful nature of your videos. Probably won't ever buy an automated electric lawn mower, but your pragmatic view has its own value.
I really appreciate that, thank you
Even as a non-American it's very educating to watch these videos adressed to the average American. Where I live and work in Germany, back in the days everyone used strings made of hemp, nowadays most plumbers use Locktite/Unilock. Which is a special type of kinda pre-lubricated string that's a lot better than using hemp or even Teflon.
Teflon is mostly used for plastic threads or by DIY people buying their stuff at hardware stores.
Yes, we use plumber's twine here in South Africa 🇿🇦. It lasts forever. I could identify the handwork of my mentor from seeing the quality of his fittings, decades later. That's how a true artisan works. He was from Deutsche descent.
All I can say is that the tape is good...but that RectorSeal No. 5 Pipe Thread Sealant stuff is so awesome.
Agreed, I believe if thats the yellowish stuff I have used that on heating hydro lines a lot with no leaks every, even after many years
Rector Seal #5 is the standard ! Great Stuff !
Just remember number 5 is oil based and should not be used on any plastic pipe. It doesn't need Teflon tape . Most plumbers now use Teflon tape and T+2 pipe thread sealant. These products are very pipe type specific . Black iron and galvanized usually use the vibration proof sealant.
@@JacquelineDoughert You should read the label on the can sometime... it says its good for use on plastic pipe also. Been using this stuff for decades. RectorSeal #5
Just don’t get it in some lady’s white carpet. 🤣🤣🤣
2:56 if you flip the roll in your hand around the other way it makes it far easier to apply because it stays close to the fitting instead of unwinding itself when you loop it around.
I thought Teflon tape was not for sealing. I thought Teflon tape was used to decrease friction resistance so you can properly tighten metal fittings to the pipes by FULLY engaging the threads and being able to make them properly tight.
That’s correct. Dope is for sealing. Also the white tape especially has very little ptfe. It’s not good at sealing. There are tapes with more like the tan tapes, but you should use dope to seal.
You thought wrong. Why would there be friction resistance?
yes agree, it is classified as a lubricant, helps prevent galling and does help fill some voids also
@@bigmacdaddy1234 he thought right. There’s tons of resistance try to thread an old garden hose. Try it with tape. Which is harder. Even better just google “tape vs dope”. Go ahead we’ll wait. Who’s the dope now?
Yes it is a thread lubricant not a thread sealant.
I am a DIY'er so I've gotten to know my local plumbing supply guys pretty well. I was getting ready to install some plumbing in my underground well house where several valves, pumps, and a couple of pressure tanks are going to live. I asked my buddies at Peterson's Plumbing in Cedar City UT which is better, paste or tape. He said both. He recommended I use a few wraps of tape and then apply paste over it. Been doing that ever since with no problems and a decent amount of peace of mind.
Former old school LPF here who worked on just about every type of pipe or tubing known to man. Couple of points. Any time we were doing malleable, carbon steel or even forged fittings with Teflon tape we would also use never seez (liquid graphite). NEVER had a leak with this combo but it’s not for every application. Whenever you’re using the hose fittings you described or anything with a rubber seal I now use silicon lube or grease on the rubber parts. Same success rate.
Same here, I've always put either a dab of anti-seize or dope behind the engagement threads on anything that may need to come apart for maintenance. It doesn't screw with the seal but keeps everything healthy enough to minimize seizing later on.
Before I installed some iron gas line I practiced with a length of pipe, end caps, an air fitting and a pressure gauge. I used tape, pressurized the pipe and waited several hours. It leaked. I used the pipe dope and repeated the test. No leak. I tried several more times. The pipe dope always worked. I was only able to get a seal using tape about 70% of the time. I used the pipe dope on the project. Zero leaks. Before you install gas lines, I suggest you practice and test the results each time.
I have seen home owners apply teflon tape to outside of already assembled fitting. I have seen this like 4 times now..
You are holding teflon tape backward. Hold tape with top of the roll against thread. This will allow you to apply tape easier .
Looks like you’re part of that 92%. 😂
Pros unroll the tape with the roller on the other side. with the roller on the outside, hard to explain but keep up the great work. Thanks
Yep, way easier to keep tension on the roll with your thumb/middle finger that way.
like this: __O, not this: ̅ ̅ O
@@danielmackey6594 Where is the pipe located in your stick and ball diagram please?
You are the first person in all my search results that mentioned special tape for stainless steel fittings. Thank you!
if you are installing fittings into a cast iron pump housing be careful not to over tighten. You lose the feel for tightness with Teflon tape and if you over tighten it could be costly.
FYI....Thread charts usually recommend cutting NPT threads such that the pair results in a metal to metal condition in about 3 1/2 turns from first engagement. Tape is thread lubricant and is not intended to impede achieving the metal to metal condition. Therefore, it is best to use no more than three turns, skipping the first thread as you said.
I have found teflon tape in all sorts of devices during troubleshooting jobs. IT IS VERY EASY TO BE MORE TROUBLE THAN ITS WORTH in systems with small diameter passages.
I have been using stainless steel tubing fittings for over 45 years. 1/4”-2”. I have only used USA made PTFE thread tape. I make 2-4 wraps and I have never had one leak even though they were subjected to THOUSANDS of pounds of pressure.
I love the Big Blue brand teflon tape in the big rolls. It's never let me down yet.
Over 20 years a Pipefitter and this is the first time I've heard of this stainless steel specific tape. He is also holding the tape roll backwards in the video.
@@esqueue I noticed that also.
I may be wrong, but I'm thinking the special tape he mentions for stainless steel may only be necessary whenever you are connecting those fittings to regular steel or cast iron and whenever water is flowing through them. I think it's to prevent galvanic corrosion. If you ever left something iron sitting on a stainless steel surface and it rained upon it, you'll see the contact with the stainless actually accelerates rusting.
I use blue monster, but I cover the first two threads. Helps protect from gaulding. 4 wraps total. Lots or pressure, heat and overall abuse in the steel industry. Never had a leak... ever
This is one of those things I figured out on my own as a kid and I find it odd that others don't think this way. Just a bit of thought and trial and error can teach so much. Great video to explain it for those who don't get it.
Also, wonder if there's other use applications for that stainless tape. Normal steel threads would gall as well.
Great video, very informative. I would add that stretching the tape a bit while wrapping the threads helps. Also, I think you used too much tape.
Yeah he seemed to double tape it. But should it be just one layer one wrap? Like too much isn't really necessary. The direction looked good
The amount of tape you can use and still get the fittings on without excess effort is the right amount of tape. So if it works, its right.
I have never used more than two layers of Teflon tape on any tapered fitting, and I've rarely had leaks on high-pressure gas or vacuum.If the threads have been properly machined, the metal on metal seal is usually sufficient. I've always assumed that the Teflon is mostly there to make it easier to tighten and loosen the fitting, i.e. to prevent the threads from galling.
No, he used exactly the correct amount of tape.
At 2:17 you are unwinding the tape roll backwards. It's hard to wrap it snug that way.
Came here to type this lol. Also to say for plastic fittings (especially metal on plastic) just use pipe dope, less chance of cracking the plastic fitting.
@@Logan-cw9yr i agree.
I love how practical and informative this video is! It's like having a plumbing expert right there with us, guiding us through each step.
I'm not so sure...
Lol
That tip about not taping the first threads is a good one.
I used to work in internet datacenters. One of our company sites had an ice storm and went onto diesel generators. One of the engines shutdown, but fortunately we had another diesel generator. When the generator mechanic got there, he discovered that some teflon tape used for a fuel line wasn't put on correctly. A piece of tape was inside the line and had broken off and was caught in the fuel filter, which eventually starved the engine of fuel.
Sometimes you can't fit the spool of tape into the space where the fitting is. Cutting off a section of tape to wrap it by hand sometimes works but is often a PITA. Instead, re-wrap the tape from the spool onto the end of a pencil, and you have a smaller spool on a long handle to reach in and tape the threads.
2-3 layers wrapped in the right direction, and ya, skip the tapered edges & prep/cleaning is important. I remodeled for about 20 Years, I've done a lot of work with this stuff. Never put it on backwards and you should very rarely go beyond 3 layers. Really great tips, you explained even more points that I wouldn't have thought to (it's sort of like muscle memory, you just don't think of the small details when doing the work regularly after a while)!
I add dope to my taped joints. Helps fill any imperfections and isn't much more work to add. I do also add tape to my garden fittings. I've had some lower quality ones leak with new gaskets, so the tape and dope solves that issue. Mostly saves me from redoing the job multiple times.
I see a lot of guys using both; but I found dope to work mostly better for me, if a bit messier.
@@MichaelCampbell01 I usually only use dope on metal joints especially on gas lines. I prefer teflon tape when going from plastic to metal or plastic to plastic, I've found dope doesn't do very well on plastic fittings but that's just my preference. I've seen quite a few people using both dope and teflon tape, I've tried it once or twice, but meh, just use the pipe dope with the teflon particles in it, works for me. I don't see the need for both tape and dope. I worked with an old scottish dude once, and he insisted on steam lines to use both tape and dope, but I don't do any steam piping anymore.
Pipe joint sealers, tape or dope help to deduce friction to allow assembly. In a perfect world we wouldn't need these things as a properly cut thread will not leak.
Using dope and tape is in my opinion is over kill. There is not enough clearance between the surfaces so most of it gets squeezed out of the joint. Can cause other issues too such as cracked fittings, contamination inside the piping.
@vaughncadney7087 Plus, if you are also bonding parts in the same room, liquid Teflon on bonding surfaces is a very bad thing. In such situations, use the tape on tapered thread fittings or move that operation to another room.
It's not just homeowners and proper application/orientation on the threads of flare fittings isn't nearly the worst problem many folks have with teflon tape. Working in the auto industry for the past twenty five years, I've seen it used on flare and compression fittings hundreds of times! Not long ago, we had a guy come in with a 69 Corvette he'd just restored himself. Every fitting in the fuel system and even worse the brake system, had the telltale white hairs hanging out of em. Really looked great on the mess of lines and fittings that feed the tri-power set up! Funny thing, he couldn't get a solid brake pedal, but somehow it didn't leak fuel... Yet! It always boggles my mind when I see these issues, since I'd like to think most people are smart enough to understand how different types of fittings seal, if they took a second to ponder it. One tip I learned many years ago, that I believe has helped me to never have leak issues with larger pipe thread fittings... My uncle taught me to use a little pipe dope along with the teflon tape. His and now my go-to is Rectum... er Rector Seal.
hahaha You're putting the tape on wrong. Reverse the spool while winding it on.
Exactly!
And way too much teflon
Was thinking exactly the same, you get better uniform tension if you wind so the tape comes off the spool close to the threads
#FACTS
Excellent and very informative video! Another common mistake I see as a scientist (where Teflon is used on inert gas lines) is Teflon being used on fittings that aren't NPT fittings. If a compression fitting is leaky, Teflon isn't going to fix it.
I have also heard that Teflon shouldn't be used on hydraulic fittings. Is that true? I didn't see any on the old threads when I changed a hydraulic line on a front end loader.
What most people don't understand is that Teflon tape is a "lubricant" that reduces the friction between pipe threads so that they can be properly tightened. Sealant property of the tape is added insurance.
I think your mistake will likely help me on my repair attempt this weekend. Thanks for your honesty
Thread tape and pipe dope help, but the real tip is realizing that the threads are tapered, smaller at the beginning of the threads gradually increasing in size and getting tighter the deeper you thread the fitting together, so the real seal comes from the threads making contact with each other the tighter the fitting gets. Anything else is supplementary/ good practice
Good day I enjoyed the video it was informative . I've only seen twice in my life a pipe fitting sealed with clear silicone . It worked with no dripping at all . Back in the late 60's I saw a man use regular household paint on the threads to seal it .
5:00 Disagree. The tape is still useful even when not being used as a seal.
By providing separation between the two metal surfaces, it prevents adhesion/fusion of the two surfaces due to things like oxidation, galvanic corrosion, etc.
It also reduces friction, making the two threads assemble and later disassemble.
It's solid lubricant.
i always thought you wound it reverse because as you're tightening, it can remove the tape. No idea why I thought that, to be honest. It makes sense that the tape would have less overlapping threads going the correct way. Thanks for the vid!
Loctite 55 is what plumbers here use. It supposedly seals a lot more consistently.
My goto tape these days, a little more expensive but never have a failed joint, you can also back turn it slightly for an aligned figment
I moved to loctite- cracking stuff
I’ve seen that but it seems difficult to work with. Where is here?
Amateurs. Real qualified professionals use plumber's twine. It can last for centuries. Kids nowadays don't take pride in their work.
I wish I had this video 40 years ago it would have saved me a lot of heartache as many who worked industrial maintenance had to find out by trial and error your fellow workers would rarely instruct the use of simple procedures no the new guys even if they could cost you a days work. After you plumb a production line if you used tape rather then putty and did not do as you demonstrate here you most likely will have to return as they will leak if it is steel pipe, not so much brass. I piped about 15 stations with multiple water lines for each machine from a 30' ceiling it will appear to be raining when turned on. And if you are new and think that just tightening the fitting will work depending on the size of the pipe you may just bust the fitting before it tops leaking. Smaller fittings up to an inch may not break however they will start leaking again within a few days. Hope this helps as the lesson on your own may keep you sore for a few days and if you are paying for it that really sucks.
It’s very common around here to put tape on and then a coat of dope
I've started doing this with my DIY jobs after seeing it on replumb's channel, works great! Belt and suspenders haha
Pipe dope is mandatory for iron and steel pipes. Also, on larger threads (like 2" and greater lines) you can skip the teflon and put a piece of string coated in dope around 2-3 threads (and no more) to do the same job. Learned that from a plumber.
Yes @ bwhog . I've been a plumber since 1988 and was a apprentice since 1979.
On boiler work ,where we used malleable iron fittings, we would coat lamp wick with pipe dope and wrap the male threads with it .
Especially , when you were connecting pipe with new threads to an existing malleable fitting . When tightening the new threads into the old fitting , the threads would cut the string to fill any voids between new pipe threads and old fitting .
Especially for gas work.
In a good number of my lawn watering systems, the hoses have rubber washers but I still get leaks. If I am using soaker hoses this reduces the pressure needed to force the water through the hose.
Thank you for this basic information. I am sure I am one of those who wrapes the wrong way. I won't anymore.
I don't know why UA-cam suggested this video to me, but the tips in it are great. Thank you very much.
Glad it was helpful!
As mentioned a few times bellow already, the tape is not a sealant, but a lubricant. It also helps the thread to not weld together overtime, especially on dissimilar metals. The side effect of having the tape (lubricant) on the thread, is that you can thread it tight and correctly, which makes the seal. So use the tape as indicated in this video, but if you're leaking, it's not the tape's fault, its' because you didn't tighten enough, or there's a problem with the thread.
Excellent as usual...I see many plumbers using pipe dope on top of the tape...any thoughts?
It's just a little extra insurance against a big insurance claim. Makes it easier to tighten fittings too.
Personally I don't like dope. It hardens so that it becomes impossible to make alterations later. But if you expect the connection to be permanent, that's probably fine. It will be permanent.
@@markm8188 Pipe dope doesn't harden.
As a heavy truck mechanic for over 30 years I can't tell you how many times I've seen where guys put it on compression and or flair fittings. Being that I work on a large fleet of mixers (cement trucks) I tend to need it fairly often. I just want to know what your take is for using pipe dope and any other guys that might see this comment. Also I've seen a couple videos showing that you are supposed to roll it up into a string and goes right down between the threads. Anyway ya I'm just curious to see what you and others think about it. Finally decent video and because of that I'm definitely going to go back and check out some of your videos from the past 👍🇨🇦🔧
I'm sorry to say, you're part of the 92% that's using it wrong. Teflon tape isn't meant to seal a joint, it's meant to lubricate the threads of a metal pipe joint allowing you to get it tighter and thus, a better seal. It's not meant for use on plastic or brass, just iron, and steel pipes. If you need to seal a joint, you need to use a thread sealant compound. I like Loctite 567 in the large toothpaste tube personally. Yes, if you wrap enough tape it will usually help to seal a joint, but it's poor workmanship. Be aware, you NEVER use Teflon tape on any kind of hydraulic joint like an automatic transmission cooler line. The tape will shed bits which get caught up in the tiny pilot passages of may valves. Even when it doesn't shed when applied, it sure will when the joint is disassembled requiring great care to make absolutely sure nothing is left. But in the real world, very few techs know any better or will take the time to clean out all the crap. It then becomes a nightmare as different valves in the system randomly stop due to the bits of Teflon tape floating around the system. I've encountered this a few times over the years in CNC machining centers and it quite frankly sucks when you're the guy that's stuck figuring it out. I've been in industrial maintenance for over 20 years and I can't say it enough: Proper tool for the job!
Also, you're holding the spool of tape backwards...
I took part in a 3-year training program at an international company. I studied 40 hours a week and received money to get a certificate that I was qualified for the job. Further training and education to the same level of qualification as a Master's degree. I spent a year learning about piping, both practically and theoretically. I had to design a chemical plant using technical construction drawings. As well as all the supply lines for cooling and heating from low pressure lines up to 30 bar steam lines. I also had to assemble these practically and they were tested for function. I don't think I've ever had a problem with something not being leak-proof.
I'm 61, started using PTFE tape when it first came out (5th grade) never leaked! Been in mechanical trades my whole life. Stop with the clickbait bullshit! Very easy to use! Works every time with just a couple of wraps!
Did you even watch the video before writing? You have too much rage in your heart. The world needs more love and kindness, not more rage and anger.
@@oskjun Awe, aint you a delicate little snowflake
@@oskjun Low T bro...its a thing. 😂😭
Teflon tape is a lubricant, not a sealant. It can aid in sealing, but that's not its intent. Never was.
I almost always use tape and then pipe dope over the tape. I think the best is Gasoila, the same brand as the tape he uses on stainless in the video. Gasoila has many different products, I use soft seal with PTFE. And just because its called Gasoila doesn't mean its only for gas. Don't over do it, using too much just makes a mess. Some plumbers will say you don't need tape + dope, and they are right, but in my 30 plus years of plumbing I have learned its the best way to avoid leaks. Also use a rag to wipe off the excess that squeezes out of the fitting. Makes it look clean and professional.
Start by putting it on the right way in the thumbnail.
I was a gas fitter for close to 40 years. I’m sure this is just a personal preference but when taping threads the only difference I did was rather than wrapping using the inside of the tape, I flipped the roll 180 degrees and put it on using the outside. This made it not only easier to put it on, but also easier to put it on tighter. It also made it easier to tear off as you could hold it tight to the threads when tearing.
1:00 The "Like & Subscribe" notice inside the pipe was very clever!
Not clever at all, it will impact the flow in your pipe and can clog something !
@@chrisdelaplante5515 🤣
I had a good friend that was the safety officer at the local power plant. Teflon tape was not allowed on anything at the plant. He would confiscate it all the time. He said the issue was it was never applied properly and it would get into the pipe and contaminate things. So your tip on the first few threads being left exposed is valid.
The other thing he said was ONLY ONE WRAP. More would cause issues. I am sure all the fittings there were in pristine shape compared to most plumbing jobs.
The cool thing was every time I saw him I got free tape he had confiscated. I have not seen him in 40 years and still have some left in my stash.
I sometimes use both Teflon tape and pipe dope. It’s suspenders and a belt.
I worked construction for over 40 years and I saw a lot of plumbers do that. They said it made sure the fitting wouldn't leak!!
I've seen steam pipe fitters do this for removal of pipes years later it works !
As plumbers, we’d use two layers of Teflon followed by pipe dope. The sprinkler fitters would use pipe dope followed by two layers of Teflon. My strong opinion, backed up by years of successful installations, is that Teflon by itself is an inferior sealant. It allows you to tighten further, which is advantageous, but does not fill imperfections in fittings well. It’s great for subsequent disassembly.
You want a trouble free seal? Use Permatex 300 and assemble tightly - all the force you can exert, a foot of wrench per inch of pipe diameter. You ever think you’d want it apart? Do not use Permatex 300. Teflon and Rectorseal 5 is still my favorite.
Every UA-cam plumber I've seen has also used pipe dope.
Count me as someone who checked off on practically doing everything wrong. Thank you!
Tape dope is not intended to be a sealer it is made to make threads slick so you can tighten down more turns. Pipe dope and string are a sealer.
Dope is almost mostly lubricant.
No dope is the sealant. It has a high enough ptfe content to seal well. Tape is the lubricant. It has very low ptfe content (although yellow tape has more).
Seriously just google “tape vs dope” ok. Stop passing the bad info.
Wrong, do the research. It is a pipe sealer.
@@Alansdadude wrong.
@@WesB1972 WRONG do the research it’s a thread lubricant that allows the threads to seal. Do tHe rEsEarCH
I always knew about winding it clockwise but I didn't know about going too far forward. thanks for the tip.
Glad to help!
So when you say 2-3 wraps only you mean 2-3 layers thick? Because what you showed was like 8 wraps but all in all about 3 layers thick across all threads but the entry threads.
As someone who does plumbing in aerospace applications, I use stainless steel fittings all the time with regular tape and it does not gaull. You just need to add a decent amount of tape, maybe a little superlube or krytox if it's an ox system and then just don't chimp out on it. Friction is what causes gaulling so don't tighten it that much. NPT is really good at not leaking, depending on the fitting it can hold like 6-10k psi
TAPE WAS “NEVER” MEANT TO BE A SEALER, ONLY MAKE IT EASIER TO REMOVE NEXT TIME.
Finally.. the truth.
Tapered threads seal on their own.
Tip o the cap sir, or madam.
@@everettrhay4855I’m sure low pressure would be fine but as a hydraulic technician I can guarantee you absolutely need tape or preferably pipe dope on anything over 300psi idc if King Kong tightened it, it will 100 percent leak with nothing
Great advice. I been doing plumbing for decades, even high pressure hydraulic connections in the marine environment up to 6000psi. For NPT fittings, paste ("pipe dope") is also very good. Where possible though, I always to use JIS bevelled fittings, as they are bullet proof reliable and can be connected/disconnected respectively without fear of causing leaks.
You surely dont do it often holding the tape the wrong way
Good tutorial
A large percentage of people don’t know this…including some different tradesmen that do plumbing occasionally
Source on where you get the 92% statistic from?
Newbie DIY forum I posted in. I think its higher than 92% sicne many there are more advanced homeowners
Hmm, despite your mantra of less turns, your final example shows six turns. i was taught five turns. I applaud your direction tips and start from the back. This i will follow. many thanks.
2:02 Do it like a pro yet does the basic common rooky mistake. LOL.
You’re right. I spliced high voltage cable for 16 years and in the early days we taped all our splices(15 and 35kv). If you throw tape as shown in the video, you can’t stretch the tape and pull it tight because you’re fighting the slack in the tape. I see “experts” throwing tape on electrical UA-cam videos the wrong way all the time.
The important thing to remember is the tape, or pipe dope if you use that, is a lubricant to create the best mechanical seal you can achieve with the precisely cut and angled threads on your fittings. The mechanical connections between those threads is what's going to give you the longest lasting (or permanent) seal. The tape or pipe dope you use is going to allow you to drive as many threads together as possible because it reduces friction. And, it will also help if you ever have to take the connection apart for repair. Properly cleaning, lubricating (with tape or pipe dope), and appropriately torquing the connection is what's most important.
Reverse the roll to keep tension on the tape. Also use the flange of the tape roll to wind the tape into the root of the thread.
This prevents the tape unwinding when you screw the fitting in.
Use white liquid sealer w/PTFE. Easy peasy
I love these 'pro tip' videos that get it wrong. Its pretty important to hold the tape on the reel the other way round, then you can more easily keep the tape in tension. I'm surprised to see it done wrong in the video as any professional knows the right way to do it.
I always made sure the tip was clear of any tape, but I didn't know not to put tape on the first 2 threads. Good to know, thanks
I worked with refrigerant plumbing a while back, and the pros told me to use normal teflon tape plus special refrigerant-grade pipe dope. Worked fine.
Yes, you need tape on garden hose fittings. When using 2 different metal fittings, they fuse. The tape helps them from fusing and easily disconnecting hose fittings.
In this country, for water pipes, hemp is used. First, you apply a thin layer of a sealing compound, and into that layer you put in some hemp fibres. The idea is that the fibres soak up the compound (or maybe even any water that should seep through, if I remember correctly), swell, and literally create a watertight seal. And it works, I have seen pipes being replaced that have been installed generations ago (meaning 50, 70 or more years ago), and the hemp still kept them completely sealed.
well i'm glad i saw this before doing any plumbing.
You put more tape on there than I would've expected xD
too much
Late! I learned this by myself using common sense and experience, but thanks for share your knowledge!!! 🎉🎉🎉👍👍
I was in charge of air lines among my constellation of responsibilities. I had assistants who agreed with me and universally thought little of Teflon tape. Always going back to redo for leaks. We went back to paste and never any more trouble with leaks.
A note on the connection's with rubber gaskets, I recommend using it when the connectors are dissimilar metals. I've started using it on my hose bibs and it makes it so much easier to remove them when I need to, because it acts as a barrier for galvanic corrosion.
I've always had great success by gently seating the tape into the fitting threads with my fingernail. This helps prevent the tape from spinning as the mating part is assembled onto the fitting.
Also, I avoid using the thinnest tape, which tends to tear very easily.
Side note: I typically wind a commercial or military-grade Teflon tape 2x around the fitting.
The best use I found for PTFE tape is when the compression gland on stoptap or radiator valve leaks you can remove the compression nut, twist the PTFE tape into a thin cord and wrap it around the stem, push it into the gap with a thin screwdriver and then refit the compression nut. the tape is pushed down and compressed and stops the leak.
I watched this video just in case im doing something wrong.. but then i forgot i was perfect and dont mess up. Back to watching diy garden videos.
Actually used a regular tape on old steel fittings. The trick is to break the "don't cover first treads" rule and do the opposite - make a small skirt and bend it a bit inwards to wrap the metal (which is on a new fitting and often sharp). So when you screw it in, the skirt contacts with the seal and protects the seal from slight imperfections in metal.
Worked for me so far. Couldn't accomplish without a tape and didn't know of any better methods at the time.
I always dope the threads after taping. Never had leaks. I also use a good tape and not the super thin tape that comes from your local hardware store. Makes a huge difference in my experience.
also, to point out that the primary purpose of the tape isn't to "seal", the tapered threads themselves is what provides the main seal, the tape is a lubricant to allow you to threat it a bit tighter, as well as loosen it when you need to. Sure it "fills in the gaps" to completely seal it, but thats also where it provides the lubrication.
Same goes for plumbing compression fittings that use an olive for sealing. Dont wrap the threads, put 2-3 wraps around the olive itself if it leaks, or use a jointing compound
Thanks for the common sense application of something everybody doesn't think it matters how you do it.
Nicely done! I'm only talking about the title and thumbnail. I automatically hit do not recommend channel to anything saying you're doing it wrong and your thoughtful titling made my cut, I admire your restraint and I may see more of your videos in my feed. I'
l even toss in a like even though I didn't watch.
One major mistake most people make is pulling the tape too strongly as they wrap it, to the point where it shrivels into a thin rope. It should be flat across the threads with just enough tension to grip them.😮
I've actually used a "Reverse threads" fitting. It was a six-inch nipple with regular thread at one end, and a reverse on the other (plus a matching coupler). It joined two sections of plumbing, and allowed me to tighten both joints simultaneously by wrenching the nipple. It was a standard part, purchased from a pro shop--which surprised me, because I keep finding myself in situations where I am apparently the first to have ever encountered them. This was not one of them.