Here’s an idea, cut the walkway and run the roof run off to the street. If your customer doesn’t want to pay then on to the next one! You seem like the kinda guy that’ll half ass drainage to get the bid just cause the customer won’t pay for a correct job. Property water belongs at the street, any drainage contractor knows that. What an ugly finish I’d never put my name on this. Right by the front door too. Corrugated pipe works GREAT when properly installed. Just replaced a roof run off system that was corrugated pipe that was 15 years old. Only had one collapse point. Get this guy outta here!
Dylan Hausinger if you are paying for it...great. But you were not. The home owner had already spent upwards of 5 thousand fixing a major drainage issue in the back. A channel drain was suggested here, but his budget didn’t allow for it. I went to your page. And like every other sit at home expert you are a watcher. You watch others and think you know something, but you don’t. You only see half the details and your mindless brain cannot comprehend the rest. Any reasonable person can clearly see you are a sit at home expert...get this fool outa here!!!! Oh one more thing mr. expert. Many cities do not allow the water to discharge at the street. Duh!
Well now e know who not to hire . after watching him use a T instead of a long sweep and use screws that will catch debris , i stopped watching . yikes !
I know this is an old video, but you said you 'hope' the water emitted from the pop up will go down the drive. My question is, why not get a garden hose positioned where the pop up will be and see where the water will flow. Seems like a no brainer to me-but right now I am an 'armchair quarterback. Things look different when you are not on site. This is a difficult situation.
So a couple of things. If this is not a warm climate, like winter, etc. That design is prone to have freezing as things thaw and refreeze etc on the sidewalk and driveway . Also, you could have went deeper and at the end under the popup and put a normal 90, just put an extension to bring the popup up to grade from the 90. The hole in the bottom of the 90, with proper rock area under it, would have drained out of the 90 and then your pipe and your catch basins could have been more standard and not customized. Overall good video though.
Sanitary tees should never be used horizontally it's prohibited. Combination wye or long sweep is the correct fitting. It's highly likely to clog at the fitting in that configuration.
Thanks for the video. Never thought to use a catch basin to catch debris. I am currently digging up clogged corrugated pipe and replacing with solid PVC piping and the details like the downspout catch basin never crossed my mind. Thanks!
Not an expert here but I dont like the modified basin grate. Its purpose is to catch leaves and roof debris, preventing them from entering pipe and potentially a clog. I guess it wont matter much on such a short run though. Pretty easy to snake that.
Its funny the catch basis manufactors instruct people to run the pvc pipe on top of the green vent. But experienced installers know that a large margin of water seeps into the ground near the foundation if you dont cut the green vent like you did. It will seep directly into the foundation if it was placed on top. I actually dont seem to see the reason to put the green top on the basin at all, would there be a benefit to the green top? Maybe to keep critters out I guess. I am a little confused do you have slope on both pvc runs? It kind of looks like the tail end isnt sloped not that it matters in that short run.
Yeah I don't like the NDS systems at all. "4 inch" doesn't mean it fits 4" pvc. Getting the fittings to properly match up to standard PVC is a pain. Seems hard to just get a gutter downspout to go directly to a 3" or 4" drain pipe.
I like the idea using a catch basin but it seems hard to disassemble to clean out? I was leaning towards 4” nds corrugated pvc do to supply shortage pvc solid very expensive.
@@rdaws73 I went with a solid 4” PVC thin wall. 200 ft (3) downspouts & wyes with clean outs. Also tied in a 12” catch basin out to daylight. The system works perfectly. Dug down 15” with mega 6” wide ditch witch.
Anthony Smith it’s not something you have to do. This house has lots of roof shingle asphalt coming off it, so for this home it was important to have something to collect them. Look at your home and situation and determine if the system would benefit with a catch basin. A simple clean out point would also help. Each situation is different, but we do like to have a way to capture debris, and (or) clean the debris.
Hi B&B Drainage Solutions, Great video thanks for sharing. I have question why don't you use PVC cement instead caulking. I think PVC cement is better choice. Thanks again for sharing.
Andy Nguyen I get that question often. I have used silicone for 15 yrs and I can say honestly I have never seen one leak...the ones I’m able to go back and check that is. Or have I had a call back. My main reasoning for using silicone is the system is not pressurized, so I don’t see the need for cement. That’s my thoughts.
Ed O'Neill two completely different applications. By code sewer is required to use cement. So yes sewer pipes need cement. This is an outdoor drainage system. Can you see the difference if the joint was to fail when you compare the two applications. I don’t understand why people try to compare two completely different trades which have different applications and requirements. You are looking at a connection point on a residential downspout. What stresses is it subjected too that warrant the use of PVC cement? I’ve used PVC cement in drainage applications, and still do. When necessary. Such as connecting joints under cement. But for a connection point on a residential downspout, or sealing a catch basin outlet, or plug -silicone is more than sufficient to keep the connection waterproof. That has been my experience with using silicone.
Ed O'Neill oh Ed. I guess in your perfect world a glued joint has never failed. Makes no difference which product you use. Each is prone to failure. And the “well it’s no big deal” remark is your assumption. Something I never said. There are major differences between sewer and rain water, which I was trying to explain. So that it might perhaps give you a little more insight between the two different applications. But I see you are stuck in your own bubble. Trust me. Silicone is more than sufficient for the application. I know it’s hard for you to grasp the concept of doing things different, but people pay me all the time and are happy with the end product.
Ed O'Neill thanks for proving for all your intelligence level. You can always spot the one who thinks he knows it all, or the “it’s only my way individual “ by the way he expresses himself. The lack of intelligence is usually proven with the inability to express a cohesive thought without profanity, or at the expense of others. Like I’ve said. Silicone is more than adequate for the application.
I like this system better than having just the pipe to avoid the pipe being clogged up over time with leaves and asphalt from the shingles but: isn't the purpose of the top of the catch basin to catch the leaves and debris and only allow water in to the pipes? With the pipe going past the top as in this video, what keeps the leaves and other debris from getting into the system? I may be missing something. The water pressure will carry the debris with this setup from what I can tell. Thanks
James Pickens I agree with you on the leaves. However, not the asphalt and dirt. There is a sump area in the bottom of all catch basins. The debris collect in this area. Even when used in yard drainage systems the debris will collect in the sump area. I have a few videos which demonstrate this. The sump area serves as the main collection point in a catch basin, not so much the grate.
Can you send a link to part 3 of this install B & B? I watched parts 1 & 2 but having trouble finding part 3 in your playlist. Enjoying you videos. Thanks 🙏🏼 You
Love how people tell u what u “should have done” not knowing anything about the customer or budget you had to work with. There’s more than one way to do most anything but it all comes down to money. If it works and the customer is happy then job well done!
BPmaris. using a long sweep has nothing to do with cost .it's about doing it correctly . the cost difference between a T and a long sweep is negligible . The installer even if he says " i've never had a problem " is just wrong and it is illegal in some states and countries .
Good info! Thanks for the video. When you use silicone, is it possible to still use glue? And do you run into any issues with screws catching debris on the inside of the pipe?
Casey Bieker no. If you use silicone do not use glue in the same fitting. Silicone will take a long time to set, sometimes, depending on weather up to a complete day. Use the smallest screw possible when connecting, obviously a 2”-3” screw would perhaps catch debris. So don’t use something like that.
Casey Bieker this is what happens when you don’t secure them instagram.com/p/Bqm3TIThFqD/?igshid=12yc7lpf133ig
6 років тому+1
That is a ugly corner to work with. They just have to stair at all that ugly piping everyday. Couldn't ya run the gutter lines over a different way like a dual exhaust system? So that you don't got ya piper showing to everyone. Or maybe they are just on the budget and don't even care.
the client was going to redo the beds, so far as landscape it. I mention that in the video. He imported dirt to cover the pipe and planted new plants. It wasn't in my scope of work.
B&B Drainage Solutions okay I will keep that in mind mister gutter down spouts movie director. Make sure the gutter down spouts are connected properly. Bc the gutter down spouts are super important and gutter down spouts can cause so many problems if the gutter down spouts are connected to the corrugated pipe. But it's way better to connect just the down spouts and leave the gutter alone so that the gutter down spouts are right.... right? Haha gutter down spouts
Good job, I’ve learned a lot from watching your videos. I like how your very specific when you say what you do. Haters will always hate because they want to see you fail. But your successful because your good at what you do. Keep the videos coming.
great video! quick question and sorry if it sounds stupid. i recently bought a house and my yard seems to be saturated with water due to rain and the rear downspouts are sending water there. i would like to do a drainage pipe underground and divert the water to front of the house, but both sides of my house has a concrete walkway so i cant exactly bury anything there or even go around it cause of the fence lines. instead of using good ol solid pipe running along the concrete walkway, am i able to use multiple sealed downspout extensions as an alternative to regular rigid pipe? the front of the house has a lawn and is slopped so doing underground solid pipe is possible there, the rest of the property is level. its just a quick idea and i just want to make it look more aesthetically pleasing. thanks for any opinons and/or recommendations. have a good day
arfift33n yes, you could use multiple extensions. I’m just not sure how it would look, if you are considering aesthetics. Cutting the concrete is also an option. Depending on the length of walkway, or driveway, this is something you could do yourself. Once concrete is cut : remove, dig trench, lay pipe and re pour concrete. If the concrete is 4ft wide, or less you can actually dig under it and run your pipe. Several videos on how to do so.
So with a massive amount of pine needles over head would you recommend a larger catch basin? I need some way to insure my lines stay clear and I like your system!
Mr. Hanky yes a 12” or 9” catch basin can work. I couldn’t use those sizes in this location. Also, it’s not necessary to cut and extend the gutter downspout extension into the grate. You can end it above the grate, about 1”.
Thanks. Finally some insight into how drainage works and the proper pipe to use and why. Very good information and some cautions about where to allow runoff.
Here’s an idea, cut the walkway and run the roof run off to the street. If your customer doesn’t want to pay then on to the next one! You seem like the kinda guy that’ll half ass drainage to get the bid just cause the customer won’t pay for a correct job. Property water belongs at the street, any drainage contractor knows that. What an ugly finish I’d never put my name on this. Right by the front door too. Corrugated pipe works GREAT when properly installed. Just replaced a roof run off system that was corrugated pipe that was 15 years old. Only had one collapse point. Get this guy outta here!
Dylan Hausinger if you are paying for it...great. But you were not. The home owner had already spent upwards of 5 thousand fixing a major drainage issue in the back. A channel drain was suggested here, but his budget didn’t allow for it.
I went to your page. And like every other sit at home expert you are a watcher. You watch others and think you know something, but you don’t. You only see half the details and your mindless brain cannot comprehend the rest. Any reasonable person can clearly see you are a sit at home expert...get this fool outa here!!!!
Oh one more thing mr. expert. Many cities do not allow the water to discharge at the street. Duh!
@Chris def wouldn't be on my short list to hire.
Well now e know who not to hire . after watching him use a T instead of a long sweep and use screws that will catch debris , i stopped watching . yikes !
For real
I know this is an old video, but you said you 'hope' the water emitted from the pop up will go down the drive. My question is, why not get a garden hose positioned where the pop up will be and see where the water will flow. Seems like a no brainer to me-but right now I am an 'armchair quarterback. Things look different when you are not on site. This is a difficult situation.
So a couple of things. If this is not a warm climate, like winter, etc. That design is prone to have freezing as things thaw and refreeze etc on the sidewalk and driveway . Also, you could have went deeper and at the end under the popup and put a normal 90, just put an extension to bring the popup up to grade from the 90. The hole in the bottom of the 90, with proper rock area under it, would have drained out of the 90 and then your pipe and your catch basins could have been more standard and not customized. Overall good video though.
Sanitary tees should never be used horizontally it's prohibited. Combination wye or long sweep is the correct fitting. It's highly likely to clog at the fitting in that configuration.
What about the ice buildup in the Winter?
Thanks for the video. Never thought to use a catch basin to catch debris. I am currently digging up clogged corrugated pipe and replacing with solid PVC piping and the details like the downspout catch basin never crossed my mind. Thanks!
Alexander Evans good luck on your project 👍
What about winter when water freezes on walk way...
Great video, sir. I like seeing that PVC was used. Just seems like such a better choice than the corrugated due to push-out ability.
Not an expert here but I dont like the modified basin grate. Its purpose is to catch leaves and roof debris, preventing them from entering pipe and potentially a clog. I guess it wont matter much on such a short run though. Pretty easy to snake that.
Why silicone..? It’s not a waterproof application…
Its funny the catch basis manufactors instruct people to run the pvc pipe on top of the green vent. But experienced installers know that a large margin of water seeps into the ground near the foundation if you dont cut the green vent like you did. It will seep directly into the foundation if it was placed on top. I actually dont seem to see the reason to put the green top on the basin at all, would there be a benefit to the green top? Maybe to keep critters out I guess.
I am a little confused do you have slope on both pvc runs? It kind of looks like the tail end isnt sloped not that it matters in that short run.
Yeah I don't like the NDS systems at all. "4 inch" doesn't mean it fits 4" pvc. Getting the fittings to properly match up to standard PVC is a pain. Seems hard to just get a gutter downspout to go directly to a 3" or 4" drain pipe.
I like the idea using a catch basin but it seems hard to disassemble to clean out? I was leaning towards 4” nds corrugated pvc do to supply shortage pvc solid very expensive.
Dont follow this
@@rdaws73 I went with a solid 4” PVC thin wall. 200 ft (3) downspouts & wyes
with clean outs. Also tied in a 12” catch basin out to daylight. The system works perfectly. Dug down 15” with mega 6” wide ditch witch.
Do you have to put a catch basin on the end of the gutter? Or can I attach a gutter extension and run it under ground to a solid pvc pipe?
Anthony Smith it’s not something you have to do. This house has lots of roof shingle asphalt coming off it, so for this home it was important to have something to collect them.
Look at your home and situation and determine if the system would benefit with a catch basin. A simple clean out point would also help. Each situation is different, but we do like to have a way to capture debris, and (or) clean the debris.
Hi B&B Drainage Solutions,
Great video thanks for sharing.
I have question why don't you use PVC cement instead caulking. I think PVC cement is better choice.
Thanks again for sharing.
Andy Nguyen I get that question often. I have used silicone for 15 yrs and I can say honestly I have never seen one leak...the ones I’m able to go back and check that is. Or have I had a call back. My main reasoning for using silicone is the system is not pressurized, so I don’t see the need for cement. That’s my thoughts.
Ed O'Neill two completely different applications. By code sewer is required to use cement. So yes sewer pipes need cement. This is an outdoor drainage system. Can you see the difference if the joint was to fail when you compare the two applications. I don’t understand why people try to compare two completely different trades which have different applications and requirements.
You are looking at a connection point on a residential downspout. What stresses is it subjected too that warrant the use of PVC cement? I’ve used PVC cement in drainage applications, and still do. When necessary. Such as connecting joints under cement. But for a connection point on a residential downspout, or sealing a catch basin outlet, or plug -silicone is more than sufficient to keep the connection waterproof. That has been my experience with using silicone.
Ed O'Neill I added a little more thought to this question. Hopefully it helps some.
Ed O'Neill oh Ed. I guess in your perfect world a glued joint has never failed. Makes no difference which product you use. Each is prone to failure. And the “well it’s no big deal” remark is your assumption. Something I never said. There are major differences between sewer and rain water, which I was trying to explain. So that it might perhaps give you a little more insight between the two different applications. But I see you are stuck in your own bubble. Trust me. Silicone is more than sufficient for the application. I know it’s hard for you to grasp the concept of doing things different, but people pay me all the time and are happy with the end product.
Ed O'Neill thanks for proving for all your intelligence level. You can always spot the one who thinks he knows it all, or the “it’s only my way individual “ by the way he expresses himself. The lack of intelligence is usually proven with the inability to express a cohesive thought without profanity, or at the expense of others.
Like I’ve said. Silicone is more than adequate for the application.
I like this system better than having just the pipe to avoid the pipe being clogged up over time with leaves and asphalt from the shingles but: isn't the purpose of the top of the catch basin to catch the leaves and debris and only allow water in to the pipes? With the pipe going past the top as in this video, what keeps the leaves and other debris from getting into the system? I may be missing something. The water pressure will carry the debris with this setup from what I can tell. Thanks
James Pickens I agree with you on the leaves. However, not the asphalt and dirt. There is a sump area in the bottom of all catch basins. The debris collect in this area. Even when used in yard drainage systems the debris will collect in the sump area. I have a few videos which demonstrate this. The sump area serves as the main collection point in a catch basin, not so much the grate.
Can you send a link to part 3 of this install B & B? I watched parts 1 & 2 but having trouble finding part 3 in your playlist. Enjoying you videos. Thanks 🙏🏼 You
Love how people tell u what u “should have done” not knowing anything about the customer or budget you had to work with. There’s more than one way to do most anything but it all comes down to money. If it works and the customer is happy then job well done!
bpmaris finally. Someone with common sense. You’re a rare breed indeed 😀👍
BPmaris. using a long sweep has nothing to do with cost .it's about doing it correctly . the cost difference between a T and a long sweep is negligible .
The installer even if he says " i've never had a problem " is just wrong and it is illegal in some states and countries .
Also, ya might want to change the title of this video to “Part 2.” LoL
haha. the program uploaded it. I feel asleep. You were not meant to see it yet!
Good info! Thanks for the video. When you use silicone, is it possible to still use glue? And do you run into any issues with screws catching debris on the inside of the pipe?
Casey Bieker no. If you use silicone do not use glue in the same fitting. Silicone will take a long time to set, sometimes, depending on weather up to a complete day. Use the smallest screw possible when connecting, obviously a 2”-3” screw would perhaps catch debris. So don’t use something like that.
Casey Bieker this is what happens when you don’t secure them
instagram.com/p/Bqm3TIThFqD/?igshid=12yc7lpf133ig
That is a ugly corner to work with. They just have to stair at all that ugly piping everyday. Couldn't ya run the gutter lines over a different way like a dual exhaust system? So that you don't got ya piper showing to everyone. Or maybe they are just on the budget and don't even care.
the client was going to redo the beds, so far as landscape it. I mention that in the video. He imported dirt to cover the pipe and planted new plants. It wasn't in my scope of work.
B&B Drainage Solutions okay I will keep that in mind mister gutter down spouts movie director. Make sure the gutter down spouts are connected properly. Bc the gutter down spouts are super important and gutter down spouts can cause so many problems if the gutter down spouts are connected to the corrugated pipe. But it's way better to connect just the down spouts and leave the gutter alone so that the gutter down spouts are right.... right? Haha gutter down spouts
Good job, I’ve learned a lot from watching your videos. I like how your very specific when you say what you do. Haters will always hate because they want to see you fail. But your successful because your good at what you do. Keep the videos coming.
O Corpus thank you ;)
great video! quick question and sorry if it sounds stupid. i recently bought a house and my yard seems to be saturated with water due to rain and the rear downspouts are sending water there. i would like to do a drainage pipe underground and divert the water to front of the house, but both sides of my house has a concrete walkway so i cant exactly bury anything there or even go around it cause of the fence lines. instead of using good ol solid pipe running along the concrete walkway, am i able to use multiple sealed downspout extensions as an alternative to regular rigid pipe? the front of the house has a lawn and is slopped so doing underground solid pipe is possible there, the rest of the property is level. its just a quick idea and i just want to make it look more aesthetically pleasing. thanks for any opinons and/or recommendations. have a good day
arfift33n yes, you could use multiple extensions. I’m just not sure how it would look, if you are considering aesthetics. Cutting the concrete is also an option. Depending on the length of walkway, or driveway, this is something you could do yourself. Once concrete is cut : remove, dig trench, lay pipe and re pour concrete.
If the concrete is 4ft wide, or less you can actually dig under it and run your pipe. Several videos on how to do so.
So with a massive amount of pine needles over head would you recommend a larger catch basin? I need some way to insure my lines stay clear and I like your system!
Mr. Hanky yes a 12” or 9” catch basin can work. I couldn’t use those sizes in this location. Also, it’s not necessary to cut and extend the gutter downspout extension into the grate. You can end it above the grate, about 1”.
@@Bellislawns thanks so much, I've learned alot from these vids
Mr. Hanky instagram.com/p/BkT8CtGhTsw/
Follow that link to my Instagram account to get a look at the other configuration I mentioned.
Thanks. Finally some insight into how drainage works and the proper pipe to use and why. Very good information and some cautions about where to allow runoff.