French Drain Tips - Setting slope for Drain pipe - (part 3)
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- Опубліковано 4 січ 2018
- In todays French drain tips I discuss setting slope for drain pipe in the drainage system. This video shows the installation process for a surface drainage system, however, the same steps can be used when installing a French drain. This surface drainage system is gravity feed, in other words, gravity is the means by which water is moved through the drainage system. To insure our system works correctly - we need the proper slope for our drain pipe!
Drain pipe used in your system to collect and discharge the water should have a downward slope to ensure water moves out the system. Depending on site conditions, and the amount of water to be moved, this slope can vary. The recommended slope for most French systems and solid pvc pipe is 1% - or 1/4" drop for every 10ft of run. The proper slope is important to ensure French drains, or drainage system will work as intended. Improper slope can lead to poor water movement, which can cause debris to clog your system. So, follow these easy steps to ensure you have the correct amount of slope!!
Job list:
6" solid pvc pipe
4" solid pvc pipe
2 NDS - 12" catch basins
100% waterproof Silicone
Pipe wrap
Equipment
Takeuchi TB216 Mini Excavator
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This video is perfect. I have a rain water drainage problem out in an open yard (not near any house foundation) that needs approximately 50 feet of drainage line. We will be using a 12" box and 4" smooth PVC. The slope was my concern. I originally thought (as most folks) the smooth PVC sticks needed to drop 1/4 inch per foot and I'm glad I can get away with 1/4" drop per 10 foot section of smooth PVC. Thanks much for the video. (Note: no solids or chemicals will run through pipes, just pooled rain water.) 👍
At 12:50 are you using 4" Sewer and Drain pipe with the bell-end? It's the thin stuff versus Sch 40 PVC. Can't figure out what flexible fittings I need to make twists and turns down to my drainage creek. thanks!
Great video
Thank you great video! Why do you use 12" catch basin to collect more debris? instead of a 9-inch or 6"?
H B that’s what she said
Nice method, well explained! Of course there is no need for the jibber-jabber lasers, but for those projects where you install soft HDPE pipes instead of those solid PVCs you won't be able to apply this method.
Or when you are running longer trenches so that you can not eyeball the depths very well - you might either under excavate, which would then require some hand grading, or over excavate which then would require you backfilling a lot and of course compacting the backfill afterwards.
What I would use for these instances is a grading trencher - the kind of trenchers that automatically grade your ditches as you drag them forward.
kellogsnotavailable it’s just a rudimentary way if doing it. A technique for the DIY homeowner who doesn’t have excess to other methods. That’s what I was trying to show and teach.
I need to do another video with more detail and explanation as I left out important info. It’s actually a pretty decent method and works very well. I think I didn’t fully explain the steps tho. Especially explaining why one would use less slope and go to a larger pipe.
What kind of sump pumps do you recommend? I have been using a 220V 1 HP Liberty sewage pump for my drainage and it has been working great so for going on a year.
Mike Lewis a little odd to use a sewage pump for non effluent water, but if it works ✅
I use the Zoeller M-98 pump. Very well made pump that does a great job with little down time.
@@Bellislawns we have a ton of rain to deal with down here. I had an Zoeller m98 but it could not keep up so I upgraded. And I couldn't find a regular drainage pump that did the GPM that I wanted. So I had to go effluent route. I looked at another Zoeller but was too expensive (220V 1HP). So I went Liberty and it's been kicking ass ever since.
B&B, I'm installing footer tile on three sides of my house with a sump pump on one corner. The pipe is NDS Quick Drain 4 inch perforated corregated. If this pipe is level at below the top of footer, won't water make it to the sump without a slope?
Water leaks into the crawlspace right at the top of footer (bottom of concrete blocks)
It seems even at level, water will go to sump to be pumped out and water never reaching the top of footer.
Thank you for your time!
Pm Tips yes, water will make it to the pump. The flow rate will be slower, and in a heavy down pour the system could be overwhelmed (backed up) due to the slower flow rate.
@@Bellislawns Thanks for your reply.
In one respect I'm lucky because the surface runoff is very little. The majority of my water is subsurface therefore comes in more slowly because it's coming through clay.
Nice video. Will this slope of 1/4” per 10’ really work well? For a 100’- 200’ run? Thank
Laniakea Rafalovich when using solid PVC pipe...yes. When dealing with poor slope situations, for drainage, a quarter inch drop is more than sufficient for water movement through the system.
So many are stuck with the 1% slope requirement. If you were to do that, a 80ft run would need a drop of 9.5 inches. Now multiply that run by 2 and you have a 160ft run and the drop goes even higher- 18” drop for a 1% slope. This simply is not always feasible on many sites. And that is what I’m trying to get across in the video. That less slope, with the right materials, will still allow for good water movement in the system.
A 100ft run with a quarter inch drop every ten ft will have an end drop of 2.5” which will allow for water movement. Is more slope better? Absolutely. But it isn’t always necessary, or allowed.
Understand, that with less slope you decrease water velocity which also minimizes the ability to push debris through and out the system!
For the length of run on you system, it’s perhaps not ideal. Especially if trying to move debris through the system. However, it would drain water.
Mother Nature
All *#*+% runs down hill.
Great tips. Thanks
NDS recommends a minimal 6" stones base under the catch basin.
Thinking of having a french drain project. Would it be alright to connect the perforated pvc to the catch basin?
RigoTheFilipino yes, you can attach the perforated pipe to a catch basin. We even attach the NDS EZ Flow to catch basins as well.
it is not a french drain system if you put in catch basins....stop the insanity...no catch basins attached to french drains!!!!
@@universaldonor3100 Why? I realize what a french drain is and how it works but why would adding a catch basin for moving additional surface water not be a good idea?
@@119Agent from an installer's pov you know that the drain will never clog from unwanted material that outside drains can introduce....catch basins have their place and we use them but run a separate drain pipe to a Y where the French drain pipe turns into solid pipe.
Good job there, ay! Just trying to promote the 1/4 inch per foot, there ay !
Yay dats right ay. Down here ay. Gonna put me pipe in at 1/4 per ft ay. Good comment there, ay!
Maybe my math is wrong but 10 ft = 120 inches so 1% slope would be 0.01 x 120 inches = 1.2 inches or about 1-1/4 inches of drop for every 10 ft - am I missing something??
This is what I got 🥸
10 feet = 120 inches. 1% of 120 inches equals 1.2 inches. 1/4 inch per 10 ft would be .2 %. (1/5 as much) Are you sloping this 1/4" per 10' (.2 %) or 1.2" per 10'(1%). I'm getting ready to do this in my side yard and would like to do it right the first time. Thanks, I enjoy your videos.
You are right to notice this. That is not a 1/4" slope per foot as he says. Its much more. 1/4" per foot is standard plumbing slope and is called "quarter bubble". It means what it says - 1/4 of a bubble past the line on the glass is correct. On the better levels there is a second line on each end. THAT is 1/4" per foot slope.
This guy reminds me of an old saying.... fake it til you make it!
1 percent means 1/8" per 1 FT that's 1.2" per 10 Ft ...I know it's an old post ... as soon as I watched it I corrected lol
Regarding your slope how do you maintain that 1% slope all the way through on a level surface without ending up 4 feet under ground at the end of the run?
The lawn sloped on this property in the front so you gain fall there. The 1% rule is really not required for drainage, it is more so for plumbers and sanitary industries by code to move waste through the system and drain the lines dry. A half inch of fall every 10' is plenty to move water when using smooth bore pipe. Depending on length of run you can still push water to daylight even if you come out 6" below grade. However, knowing the length of run is important on such sites. Now. if you can't get to daylight then you discharge to a pump.
@@Bellislawns yeah I learned the hard way the need of a sump pump. My back yard is very low and the discharge is in front the house in the street as there is no ditch in the back yard, just other peoples property. So I tried to make a gravity drain and ended up so deep before the natural fall of the surface began that I was intersecting sewer lines like 3 feet below ground. So I said F this, I am going to buy a pump and sump basin. it works well and the cool thing is is once the pump kicks on and primes that discharge line, then the siphon effect kicks in and will run like that forever unless the water in the sump basin runs out OR the amount of rain fall is so high that it causes the float to kick on on the sump pump which will cause another forced discharge. I have a few videos of this. So the way it siphons saves a lot of unnecessary wear and tear on my pump.
Wow you didn’t think that running a drain pipe from the backyard to front on a flat property would have the pipe at the curb WAY WAY BELOW GRADE THUS BELOW THE CURB LINE? That is one reason they make sump pumps. I also use sump pumps to pull ground water out(drys up the really well) French drain ONLY COLLECT SURFACE WATER. Sump pump helps remove the water that has made its way below the French drains point of collection. Also brutes heavy duty 33 gallon trash cans work perfect($35), drilll 1/2” holes around it est. 30, drill 8-10 on bottom , dig out dirt deep enough to set 1 foot under ground rock with #57 under it 3-4” is about right then rock around sides 4-6”. Then you can ALSO run ALL your other drain lines into pump station.. buy a Myers or Gloud Franklin or sta-rite.
Do not buy some cheap Lowe’s pump. Install 1" check valve( get the flap, not spring) and run a minimum 1 inch drain. So get a 1-1/2” x 1 reducer.
I do drill hole around top of catch basin.
@@Eddybarrett84 yes I have a nice system. I have a sump pit, a network of catch basins that empty to 4" solid pvc that are gravity fed to the sump basin. Then I have a 220V 1HP Liberty sewage pump with a 2" discharge. It can also pass 2" solids. It's a beast. I am currently in the process of tying a french drain into the pit, in addition to the previously mentioned catch basins, in order to provide additional drainage around my new patio.
I've often wondered about this but are there any permits you need to get when doing a french drain installation? Great video's by the way. I'm learning a lot and will be doing an installation myself at some point on my property.
Depends on where you live and what you are doing. Where I am as long as you aren't tying into the county stormwater system (it is illegal), a protected body of water, or moving facilities you don't need a permit.
These pipes are really big for such catch basins. Probably you live in some tornado prone area - to catch this amount of water they can carry.
Vitali Lisau 12” catch basins to 6” pipe. They are double the size of the pipe. A catch basin is just an inlet, and these are 12”. Nothing wrong with the size, so long as the outlet to the pipe is the same diameter. Which it was in this application.
I was dying laughing at the end with the fence. 😁 Great video. I am definitely ready to go to 6" to the front ditch. I think that will be good. I will rent one of those track hoes for sure. Hand digging sucks!
Matthew McKinney yeah. I did a big no no. Tracking the trench while the boom was extended when I wasn’t even looking, or watching in that direction. Oops ;)
B&B Drainage Solutions I had actually assumed it was your son who did it. 😂
No, it was me. He ended up getting sick and missed the final 2 - 3 days of that project!
Matthew McKinney Yeh, shitty looking fence anyways!
vikings844 haha. it didn’t hurt much. Client was like...”it didn’t fall down. Don’t worry bout it!”
What if the backyard is lower than the street level?
Since pvc pipe is used with dirt, where is the water at or below the level of the PVC pipe supposed to go?
Kevin Phillips this isn’t perforated pipe. It’s solid pipe with the water being direct fed from catch basins and downspouts!
Hello, i have a 5 pipes which use to drain water from my sloppy garden during rain when i bought the property but now they have stopped and i can't figure out why they have stopped ? I can't find anything in the garden which shows me anything which i need to unclog. They are PVC pipes which are coming from sloppy garden to under of raised Patio and they look clean from external inspection. I tried using wire to see if any thing deep away is clogged but other than few white gravel nothing came out. Any suggestion please ?
If the ground shifts or settles the slope may have changed
shouldnt any pipe 4in or more be 1/8th of a slope and 3 and under 1/4?
Scot MacQueen depends on the Volume of water you are required to move. This is a 6 inch pipe which at 1% slope moves double the amount Of a 4 inch pipe at the same pitch. Corrugated pipe, as specified by the manufacturers, requires greater pitch to move the same volume of water as that of a smooth bore pipe.
You can cheat a bit on French drains. As long as you’re at least level and your outlet pipe is lower than the rest of the line, everything will drain. The 1/8” per foot is required for sewage lines because you need to be able to float solid waste out of the pipe too. If you wrap your pipe, you won’t have any solids in your pipe.
Thats more than a 1% slope. 1/4 bubble is just that - 1/4" per foot. One quarter of a bubble past the line is 1/4" bubble.
Rhodesian Ridgeback Puppies we had this discussion long long ago. I know. A plumbers level is the correct tool to use for this application and practice.
Since you are using all solid pvc, why not just use a marble and set it in the beginning of the pipe and see if it rolls on its own to the end of it ? 🤷♂️
When doing a Google search you will find the commonly recommended slope for French drains is 1% - which equates to 1” per 8 ft (drop). This is NOT a French drain system. Also, corrugated pipe requires greater slope for water movement, which most French drains incorporate (NDS EZFlow). This system used solid pvc pipe and a quarter inch drop per 10 ft (slope) is more than sufficient for water movement. This is NOT a sewer line. Sewer lines require 1% slope to ensure the solids are pushed through the line with the flow of the liquid. 1% slope is required by code on sewer drain lines. This is not a sewer drain line.
If you were using the standard 1% slope in real life situations , all the time, you simply would not be able to achieve a 1% slope throughout the run of the system. Most job site conditions simply do not allow for such fall. When installing a system, such as one like this, I always recommend the maximum slope requirement for site conditions. Understand, the grater the slope the greater water movement you will have in your system.
A comment was made about the slope in this video. And I did make a typo in the text “1% Slope = 1/4” drop per 10ft”
Plus in the video I reference the 1% slope (it’s kinda stuck in a drainage guys head). That is not 1% slope, but slightly less. So thank you for catching the misprint on my part, and hopefully I have helped clear up any confusion created on my side!
1% is recommended for pvc minimum is .5% for corrugated 2% minimum. You lose a lot of flow going under 1%.
Peter Wood true. You have to know the water volume you are dealing with given a rain event. Here, 6” pipe was used, so you gain the water volume back as compared to using 4” pvc in this application and for site conditions, plus the maximum slope allowed on the site.
Or in layman’s terms...4” pvc set at .5% slope on this site would not have been sufficient given certain rain events and and water volumes.
@@peterwood9679 It can but on this video the flow is more restricted by that Catch Basin Outlet rated at 63 GPM. That NDS1243 could be modified by cutting out the 3" pipe parts to fit a 4" Rubber Grommet, (sold in plumbing at my local hardware stores & they're chemical & UV resistant for $11), that fits perfectly into the max 5" of that outlet. To fit Sch40 the inner rivets on the grommet may need to be sanded down. That'll improve the flow to the full 135 GPM of a 1% sloped 4" pipe.
Bob the Slacker that is not correct. It is a 6” outlet (for the 6” pipe). The one does show the 4” with the 3” outlet. However, it was removed giving it a 4” opening. Other than that you are correct, but I didn’t show that part as it was done later.
Bob the Slacker and I question the need for a rubber seal, especially in a lawn application. Good silicone (although most disagree, but it is what NDS recommends) will seal the gap. Now, in applications where chemicals might enter the basin a chemical resistant seal might be needed.
Typically a 1% slope is equal to 1/8” per foot of run and a 2% slope is equal to 1/4” per foot of run. Their are 48 quarters in a foot, so if you ran 48’ of pipe your total drop would be 12 inches. Check the math. Just saying.
MrVicsr you’re late, this conversation took place longgggg ago. Please read the pinned comment.
Just saying? Is that high school lingo 🤷🏿♀️
I think you mean 1/4" per foot...
Miguel Rosas ahhhh. I see what you are referring to. Please see my comment I pinned to the top. And thank you for pointing out my typo 👍
1 percent slope is not =1/4" per 10 Ft .. instead 1/8" per 1Ft is 1 percent slope and that's the slope recommended for external drainage pipes ... 😉
You’re late. We already had this discussion 🥴
You connect a 6 inch pipe to the catchbasin without knocking out the three inch(!) limitation?? See ua-cam.com/video/hqW49969hmE/v-deo.html
Sorry dudes, there is no need to pitch perforated pipe, and throughout basement jobs I do everywhere on new house the pipe stays level just under the floor elevation.
Sorry dudes. This is not perforated pipe and this house has no basement. This is a surface drainage system-only. Stay off the internet Jeffrey...you’re intoxicated again 🥴😂🥴😂
Why isn't it financially advantageous for a contractor to own his own mini excavator rather than to rent?
Thank you for the video!
Pm Tips if all you do is drainage , and I mean that is all, you would be hard pressed to justify owning a excavator. And that is all I do. Plus, I would bet anyone’s weekly paycheck I don’t pay nearly what they do to rent. Especially a home owner. I have a very good contract with my dealer and never have to worry about repair cost, and at the end of the year I get to write off all my rental fees.
Now, if you are doing many things so far as work...owning an excavator would be very much in your favor. Because the work volume would justify it. And many contractors find it favorable to lease rather than to own. Each business is different and each has to weigh the pros and cons for their individual needs.
For me, at this moment, renting is very much my best choice and works for me. However, that doesn’t mean I won’t get one, or don’t want one. It’s just not a smart business move at this time. For my business.
@@Bellislawns I understand, it sounds like you have a good handle on it. That is a big advantage not being responsible for expensive repairs like hydraulic pumps, motors, and cylinders. Thanks!
Pm Tips one other quick note. United Rentals is no longer the rental company I have a contract with. I got a more favorable rate with Sunbelt Rentals.
@@Bellislawns Sounds like you a customer they want to take care of. I don't blame you at all for renting.
I appreciate your videos!
@@Bellislawns Do you mind mentioning what you pay to rent the mini excavator? I know a local rental company charges $250/day.
YEAH BUT DABBA DOO