Will $1000 Coilovers Help Us BEAT A SUPERCAR?
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- Опубліковано 28 лип 2022
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🔴 Ep1 - Buying a $5000 Project Car to BEAT a Supercar
• Buying a $5000 Project...
🔴 Ep 2 - Can a $5000 Subaru BEAT a $200,000 Supercar?
• Can a $5000 Subaru BEA...
🔴 Ep 3 - Will $1000 Coilovers Help Beat a Supercar?
• Will $1000 Coilovers H...
🔴 Ep 4 - How Much Faster are Track Tyres?
• How Much FASTER are Tr...
🔴 Ep 5 - How Much Faster Is a Lighter Car?
• How Much FASTER is a L...
🔴 Ep 6 - Stock Brakes vs $1000 Track Brakes
• Stock Brakes vs $1000 ...
🔴 Ep 7 - Stock Power vs $2000 Engine Mods
• Stock Power vs $2000 E...
🔴 Ep 8 - $20k DIY Modified Subaru VS $300K Lamborghini
• Video
BC Racing Coilovers - bit.ly/3SfqAES
We’re trying to beat a supercar with a £15000 budget - we spent just under £4k on a Subaru WRX Estate (long story) and we’re upgrading it to beat a supercar driven by Scott (a racing driver).
In the last episode, we were shocked at how bad the 19-year-old suspension was - look at this. As far as I know, wheels aren’t meant to do that.
So we’re going to decide on some coilovers, fit them, and then test them at the track - to see how much lap-time they gain us.
As a reminder, we’re trying to go as fast as possible on a tight budget. Scott went 10 and a half seconds faster than us in his Lambo and we need to find that with only £10,226 left.
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#20KSupercarChallenge #MOREFAST #Coilovers - Авто та транспорт
I feel guilty for everytime I bought the most expensive and customizable suspensions in Gran Turismo, only to never bother of set up them.
😆 🤣 😂 😹
So true.
"50:50 neutral is good enough for me!" lol
I only ever use it to wreck the setup of the car anyway 😁
“Oh $10k coilovers? Sure I’ll take them… oh they’re 3 way adjustable? That’s cool I guess… I need to set them up? I think not…”
I'm really excited for this series. It's cool to see how you can take an old car and upgrade it to make it faster and what makes the biggest differences
agreed
I'm sure i missing something...
Spoiler alert!
#1 Tires.
#2 Weight.
#3 Weight transfer - in the way you needed it most usually #1 spring rate #2 swaybar #3 then anti angles if you can adjust them (like roll-center, anti-squat, anti-dive) #4 downforce #5 shocks (would be #2 if off-road)
#4 brakes (this would be #1 if your brakes are trash but if a car handles well and low weight you really not on the brakes that long).
@@gatorage850 According to my countless hours on Gran Turismo 5 tires are definitely the best at improving your car😂
you would probably also love hi-low by donut media then! they get two nearly identical used cars and upgrade them, one with expensive parts, and one with budget parts.
@@jovaniortiz8317 and According to GTA off-road tires are best so you can curb boost!😉
Remove the interior, seats and all those dead weight. Then do the suspension tuning and tyre change.
Winter wheels
@@knrz2562 🤣🤣
In terms of performance gain you will see the biggest gain from tyre first, then suspension, and then the modest weight reduction you get from gutting the interior. Gutting an interior is only good for 100-150lbs. Consider, can you notice a large difference when a friend is riding with you? No. You need much larger weight reduction for it's effect to be significant.
@@Levibetz weight reduction is free gain. They have a tight budget.
@@Levibetz Depends. I took 72kg/160 lbs out of our Suzuki Jimny and it made a huge difference to acceleration, roll through corners and fuel economy. Worth mentioning any gain is noticeable when you have 80bhp though :P
Big old Top Gear vibes and I'm loving it! Keep this content coming please
nah, top gear was all a bit fake - this is way more enjoyable and wholesome
Top gear did an episode exactly like this, called top gear build the impossible. However, they used a Renault Avantime.
*Any time a group of three men get together to do a car challenge on UA-cam*
Comment Section: _"iTs JuSt LiKe ToP GeAr!"_
If it was top gear, then before they even got hold of the cars, they'd have decided what the times were going to be, and then they'd have just filmed a bunch of arty shots to tell that story. It became annoyingly fake. The "races" were fake - after all...the Range Rover with the camera crew in it, did the exact same route as the car/cars, the crap they built was fake in that they never built it, it was built for them, and then the script was written around it to make it look like they had some input of their own. Every drag race you see, is a compilation of clips from multiple takes, which is why the gaps keep varying from shot to shot. Same with laps of the track.
Hell, I wouldn't be surprised if the power lap times were just pulled out of someone's ass and decided on, and then the Stig just drove around a few times to give them some shots
@@shona5512 lol
I also loved this, think that you should get 3 cars for £1000 and have £1000 to tune them concluding with a race to see who came up with the best car/tuning combination even give extra points for every pound under the £2000 they spend.
topgear called, they want their concept back! 🤣🤣
@@_B1078_ obviously that's where idea came from but they could change it up.
Easy this one, cheap RX-8 for £500 and suspension mods and a tune 🤣 just don't let it turn off once you've got it running ahah
My old comment looks really good now🤣🤣🤣. Loved this video
Tires will make a much bigger time difference than suspension.. but suspension is what gives you confidence and predictability to USE those tires
Yup. I learned in go karting that once you learn to complete trust your tires, its on.
This video actually tells me a lot about how to tune a car in a racing game, what to expect from tuning each option, stiffness, ride height and something about weight distribution, it's something I am struggling with all the time, this series has been very useful for gamers like me to understand how to build a car efficiently.
it's hard, every car and drivetrain will have to be altered differently and it depends on the rest of your setup as well (i.e., midengine rwd car will be setup differently than awd front engine which will be diff from awd midengine) there's a lot of interplay with every system, not to mention your driving style takes a lot into account. doubly not to mention, every game has different levels of realism for suspension setup, some games like dirt rally 2.0 totally invert the sliders.
@@HollidaySpessa This series is amazing, they are spending real money and sharing the experience with us, experimenting, experiencing, it's not like someone presenting us with all the knowledge with no instance, it's kind of like that game forza horizon 5, building a car, not just granted a certain race car for some certain tracks like in racing simulator, the amount of knowledge during the entire process is great.
@@ashiagefa646 ...yea? im not saying otherwise, im jus saying games like forza don't have suspension models that adhere to rules of reality, esp compared to games like ACC or especially richard burns rally. it's something ull jus have to play with and learn thru experience especially, on top of stuff like this
@@HollidaySpessa actually...
Forza have suspension model since Motorsport 4
That's a misconception
You can't compare Forza Horizon to Acc
Even Motorsport 7 since it's still based on a very old game engine
@@iamcarl4591 richard burns rally is from 2005 and blows everything out of the water lol, so age doesn't matter. something can have a suspension model and that suspension model be horrible (which forzas is because it's not a simulation, and that's ok and there's nothing wrong with it)
0:41 “oh some stickers” “wow a piece of cardboard” there are two crows inside all of us, they’re both exactly the same
Notice how it's still got a heap of body roll? You've sent the roll centre through the floor by lowering it too far, it will be a lot quicker if you lift it at least an inch or go for a roll centre kit - you'll notice it drastically reduces the weight transfer, and makes the car feel a lot sharper and more responsive.
Just commented the same. So many people don't realise that lower does not automatically equal better!
@@gazman9468 Watch the angle on the lower control arms. If the lower ball joint is not below the lower control arm's pivot points (closer to the ground) when the car is sitting on level ground then you have lowered it too far and the handling will suck.
Well, as next episode is propably already recorded my comment will be useless, but I'll write it anyway:
Subarus are very front heavy but they have low center of mass. Stiffening rear sway bar is the first thing to do when you want to improve handling of them.
And about next thing on the list, tires: There is no going around it, if you're going for lap times, aim for best tires you can get. With other things you can get to the point of deminishing returns, with tires better model will always give you time advantage.
Winter tires with good groves improved grip
biggest gains that can ever be done to get a car to go faster are good sets of Tires (depending on what size of rims are stock) after that weightreduction.
but that Scoobie just a set of tires would do the biggest difference
further changes the airflow to increase aero dynamics.
@@knrz2562 the track is too small to really benefit from airflow
A set of michelin pilot sport 4's wont break the bank and in my experience (had these bc's on a subaru as well) make a subaru almost stick to the ceeling
@@Seb-Storm idk
This. Going to be very interesting to see what new (stickier) tires will do
I genuinely cannot get over how relaxed you guys seem to be while working on a car. In America we curse and throw things.
Having lived in the rust belt (Illinois) and having to deal with rust fused and sht constantly falling in your eyes when under a car; you would be absolutely correct!
Curse words, wanting to destroy stuff, wanting to set things on fire, beat sht with a sledge hammer, lay under the car for no reason, and go to a pick a part junkyard because no one has the part you want in stock unless you want to wait forever after ordering it because a bolt fkng snapped or rounded out.
did you watch the last episode?
didn't watch the second episode huh
@@xAKALISx America has a "rust belt" to signify an area where there is the most rust.. Whereas the UK just has the UK.. Because everything is rusty.
yes they should hire me for the cursing and throwing compensations XD
I wonder… how will the final form of this Subi size up with the Low Car from Donut Media? That’s gonna be an epic crossover 🫣
i would love a crossover like that. both groups are so fun to watch
itll be better. both gen of Z cars are prone to over heat under hard driving
@@thewen you know both of them got engine swaps, right? i'd imagine those overheating issues are more related to the engine and its cooling system rather than the actual 350z
edit: ...and they each got their own upgraded radiators during the original season, so that got taken care of even before they swapped out the VQs. if you didn't actually watch their Hi/Low series, you're really missing out.
Would be an interesting crossover and would be hilariously fun to watch
A Donut and Driver Media colab would be so epic!
You've went very low with the rideheight, and the angle af the front control arms has switched to the other side of the horizontal. You will absolutely need a roll center correction kit. You can have that either from Whiteline, or Superpro.
Then, the wagon has narrower control arms, and that works in your favor. Buy a set of STI control arms, aluminium ones, they are 10mm wider, and that will increase the front camber. Be careful, there are 2 versions for those, 3.5deg caster and 5deg caster. The later one, called "spec B" control arm, can be found on the hawkeye STI, this would be the best option. Nevertheless, there are alternate ways to increase the caster. ALK is one of those, but it sucks imho, since it puts static load on the bushings. There is also a free caster mod to be done on the STI control arms, by flipping the rear pin. It does the same thing as an ALK.
If you switch to STI control arms, you will need a new antiroll bar. Careful with that, they differ between the normal STI arms and the spec B ones.
You can also go with STI control arms on the rear, but you will go into fender clearance issues, since the wagon has no flaring helping with wheel offset. For wheels, your best option would be the STI 5x100 wheels, 17x7.5, ET53. Or, if you keep the rear control arms, there is more flexibility to be had. DO NOT go under ET48, or you'll need to cut the lip on the rear fenders. Long story short - a 17x8, et48, on 235/40 might do the trick for 300HP and also fit the rear arches, on the stock rear arms.
Bracing the chassis should also be done, especially after going on the coilover route, it flexes quite a lot.
MANDATORY addition - rear frame lockout bolts.
Poly bushings all-around the suspension can also be of great help. There is also some transition torque lost in the soft drivetrain suspension - engine and transmission mounts, rear differential bushings.
And the WRX 4-pots are quite weak. Buy a set of an STI brembos, or better yet, some BBK. Wilwood has some cheap options. Or see with AP racing, they're on the same island as you are.
If the car is driven by an experienced racing driver, the current steering rack should be fine, it's a 17:1 ratio. Otherwise, good news, your car is RHD, and the JDM STI rack is readily available for a simple swap, with a much-much better ratio of 13:1.
That car has the potential of being turned into a weapon, track-wise, with the right parts and setup.
Edit: do NOT go over -2deg of static camber on the front, the steering rack on this car is in front of the axle, giving very weird toe on lock. On the other hand, for the caster, as much as you can.
Stiffer anti-rollbars and some yokohama advan with stiffer walls would help a lot in the corners. Take the spare seats out they weigh a tonne.
Rollbars?!.
Well that's like um idk for protection doesn't really increase free horse power 😳 😬 🤔 😕 😅 😐
@@knrz2562 no anti-rollbars have a quick search online that are situated under the car 😊. That’s what I changed on my old turbo mx5 for gymkhana and made a great difference.
So looking forward to future episodes! I had the exact same car that at tuned for light track work and mountain roads.
In terms of suspension need to replace the front control arms with STI alloy control arms. The OE metal ones are trash and narrow. GC8 STI arms are direct swap and GD with give you 10mm extra front track width. Also associated swaybar upgrades help, not too stiff.
Rear you need to dissemble the training arms and lateral links. OE set will be frozen in place and don't articulate properly due to age. STI at the time made pink trailing arms and lateral links with piloball bushing. Huge difference in rear stability.
Also bushing STI has a Group N catalogue; rear diff assembly mount, gear box mount and engine pitch stop helped a lot in terms of drivetrain slop and helps get power down better.
STI also made a underbody brace (just a pink bar) and strut brace that helped with steering feel.
The above shopping list is relatively cheap but made a huge difference in handling.
Man I miss that nugget
I love these stock vs expensive "aftermarket" part kind of videos! Really tells you a difference!
Donut had a similar, but it's Cheap vs Expensive Aftermarket
@@sureyeah3678 this feels like a donut media ripoff
@@ferdifresh8464 nah, this is closer to what CarThrottle did. But there, they dont have budget limit iirc
This content is so, so good. I know these kind of series take a lot of work and money, and we really appreciate it. I can't wait to see this one continue and see what else you have in store!
I'm amazed that a difference between proper set of stiff, adjustable coilovers and a stock suspension with at least one busted shock is that little!
Yep, suspension without a tire upgrade is often just a confidence upgrade that reduces compliance. But pair that with a set of good tires and an alignment tailored for those tires (getting the tires equally warm inside, center and outside) and there is no better bang for buck upgrade. Next, weight reduction. Only then, maybe some power adders.
based on some of the data given in the last episode I've done some calculations on power to weight ratios of both cars. The power to weight ratio of the Murcielago is almost exactly 350 bhp/tonne. If the Subaru's weight stays the same (which it presumably won't) it'll need to make just over 500bhp to match the Murcielagos power to weight, similarly if the power of the Subaru stays the same (again presumably not) the weight of the car will have to drop to around 650kg! If the lads can get the weight of the Subaru down to a somewhat reasonable 1250kg then to match the Murcielago it'd need around 440bhp. I know that power to weight ratios aren't everything in this situation, this was just a bit of fun.
Thank you for doing all this, I’m interested in these kind of more specific statistics but don’t necessarily have the idea to do so.
This is the first series I’ve ever seen that makes the engineering and tuning side of cars/racing actually entertaining. 20 or so seasons of top gear, and they never even attempted to do this, let alone succeed as you have.
To be fair, car throttle did basically this with their fast bmw series. Worth a watch.
"Top gear Renault Avantine track time challenge"
I'm loving this series! Great job guys!!!
Definetely the best car series on youtube!!!
Well, throttle house is also pretty great
@@bobbycheese22 I actually like Driven Media’s approach of evaluating the process. I feel like the effects of the mods that they do are more clear and easy to understand.
Don't make the same mistake top gear did and only focus on handling and then throw like 40 extra hp at it. Gut it, get some good tires on it, some really good brake pads (because it isn't a marathon, it's a sprint) and put some power into it. It's 400hp down on the Lamborghini. 400! It's going to need a good 100+ HP and some more handling mods. Anti roll bars, tires, brake pads, brake fluid, and some good ole fucking power. Don't get wrapped up in spending the rest of that 10k on suspension. Some of that has absolutely got to go to the engine.
I agree check my comment out I said something very important more downforce to keep the vehicle firmly planted on the road.
I'd like to see them make this work but the EJ in that Subaru is a real weak point. Anything over 300whp on the stock bottom end and it's a ticking time bomb. Might still make the lap tho, that's all that counts
Love this series, can't wait to see the result!
Love this series! Can’t wait to see where you go with it. Brilliant. 😊
I'm loving every installment so far! Excited to see the finale
right before he took off i said to myself i'd be surprised if it gained more than a second on that track. makes no sense to expect a 2 second gain on just swapping out suspension. with the suspension upgrade the car still needs better tires, more power, weight reduction. anything else is just pissing money away. also should have done the weight reduction before setting up the suspension because now you'll just have to set the suspension up all over again after you do the weight reduction.
Tires are going to make the biggest difference I’d say, be interesting to see that episode. But ye I’d have stripped it out 1st considering it can be done for free.
Will:
“I want to be as hard as possible”
“I don’t want to be able to put a finger in”
“I’m the chief squirter”
love it! great content guys keep it up. subscribed!!!
Enjoyed this! One thing I would say though is it would be worth calculating roll centres properly rather than dumping the ride height by a random amount. Most people think purely in terms of lower COG but you actually get more body roll going excessively low due to control arm angles increasing roll centre vs COG difference. Increased body roll due to being too low will reduce the load the inside tyre is dealing with lowering overall grip. It's highly likely the optimum is not much more than 30mm from stock ride height without roll centre correction of some kind.
I subscribed because of this series. I they do much more like this. It's rare on UA-cam to find a real in-depth modification by comparison series like this on UA-cam.
I am definitely subscribing! Can't wait to see this series of episodes unfold.
love this series keep up the good work boys! also would love to see a deep dive into how to setup a track car! I could listen to scott talk about setup all day lol
I've been waiting for years for new episodes of genuine old Top Gear! I love it! Keep it up 😁😁
Before you do the corner weight and alignment you'll want to take the weight out of the car first. I'd also do the tyres at the same time. That will see your biggest gains in lap time I reckon.
For tyres I'd personally recommend Yoko A052s.
Cool series.
Shame that testing it with new stock suspension wasn’t done though. Would’ve been interesting to see.
Cool to see. Looking forward to the next one.
My first time on the channel and I am blown away that you haven't changed the tyres yet. First and foremost are tyre upgrades.
i went through all of this 6 months ago building a 2006 Impreza Sport Wagon into an Autocross and Rallycross racer! So fun watching you guys !
Looking forward to watching this whole series 😄
I subscribed and can't wait to miss the next episode!
Fantastic series!
I'm really loving this series so far :D
Please keep it up !im learning a lot about cars!
Don’t forget bushings, Whitline antilift kit and Short shifter with transmission Sti transmission mount👍
Wider Tires about 10-15mm wider on those 17” rims. Any more u will bounce around. Skip the clutch. Subaru transmission are garbage just deal with it and learn to be smooth! Shift that money to Turbo upgrade with ECM tuning with Bigger exhaust. You need better pads like Akibino race pads on the cheap. Or straight pipe for track use no muffler or cat. Put it back on after u win.
Take out all interior extra and get weight down.
Move battery to trunk passengers side if u can to distribute weight.Cusco rear strut tower mount skip the front one if u need more grip in the front. Don’t forget f/r sway bars 22mm or above.
Sti here in USA is about 300hp. That turbo tune can get u to 380-425hp This will make maximum usage of the GD engine cams. Guaranteed win!
Good Luck!
Keep it up guys this is looking great. Indeed suspension is a big improvement for grip and lap times. Get better tyres, sportier brakes and finally add some extra ponies into the engine with whatever money is left
Just discover this test. Absolutely loved it, and useful consumer advice.
I love this series, I'll make sure to miss the next episode as soon as it comes out!
You intentionally want to miss the next episode after loving the series after only watching the first video?
@@xAKALISx it's the third video of the series, and it's a joke about the last 10 seconds of it lol
Very awesome series!! I HIGHLY recommend getting some Kosei k1 wheels if you’re going to go with a 17” they are incredibly cheap and incredibly lightweight and designed for the track. That lower unsprung mass will help a bunch
How's the tread wear? Do they last more than a few years of normal day to day wear?
@@fairyball3929 they’re wheels not tires if that’s what you mean.
@@Scalene17 Oops, I should've read your comment a bit more closely. Nevermind, I'm not a wheel expert anyways.
I know you’re now aware that he was talking about wheels, but performance oriented tires can’t really be expected to last more than a few years. Not if you drive your car frequently anyway :P
Very good series. As a wrencher myself I appreciate when the actual work is documented and not just skipped over.
Loving this, great to see what the Wagon can do!
I love these comparison videos
I love this series!!!
This is great fun. Well done guys.
All this wagon needs is a larger stock location turbo, larger tmic, and a tune and I guarantee you this boxer motor gives that Lambo a run for it's money
I love little fiddly bits about what makes a car go faster or better, etc. This series hits the sweet spot. I'd love to see you guys vs someone like Donut doing this on a budget. USA vs UK...
Love this series!
7:40 "that may look unremarkable" TO WHO!??? That is a huge gain!! holy crap thats one of the biggest gains in time I've ever seen for such a short trial. thats over a full second with only 10 seconds. thats more than a 10%gain with no power added
Can you add this to a playlist or tag it as part of a series? Incredible content, can't believe you're "only" at 235k subs, about to blow and I'm here for it!!!
MORE FAST - Beating a Supercar with $20K
ua-cam.com/play/PLEQZe6rk8WvcNXjeqZQh9c843GYIcyK9r.html
I improve my car by stiffen the chassis aside from the use of adjustable coilover, with strut bars such as the one I installed are produced by the local company called ‘UltraRacing’.
They produce specific multiple bars for different car models.
Good job!! Sway bars 24mm with aluminium endlinks are best bang for buck to take away body roll.
Then...
Drop a downpipe + prodrive cat converter, uppipe if possible too,
225l pump,
vf34 turbo,
550cc injectors,
tune her to 1.15/.2 bar easily pushing 300/310hp
New brake pads/service
I wouldn't imagine would be as fast as a lambo though!
Was never a huge fan of this channel, but damn this is the most fascinating series I've ever come across.
Lose weight, better tires (r888), forced induction, that'll get it really close to the murci.
I'm liking this series, can't wait for the next one.
Perrin or Cobb sway bars, strut tower brace, frt and rr, Enkei RPF1 wheels with Falken Azenis RT615k tires should just about wrap up your suspension needs.
This is a great series
This is so nice lol. Love the vids
Take a good concept and make your own spin on it, i like it!
How the hell have I just found this channel? It's like a mashup of donut media and carthrottle. Brilliant stuff, this series will be awesome. New subscriber here 😁
I got an 05 wrx, and it currently only has wheels/tire, exhaust, intake, Stage 2 clutch upgraded, and early tune. Got Brembo's for it, Turbo Inlet, and an Sti Scoop. Been Looking at suspension upgrades, so this was helpful.
Loving this series, picked it up at ep5 and then 1, 2, 3 not named by series (cheers). I jest, but is it just time on the small track car throttle use that the comparison is on, maybe because instated at 5 on a track
Doing suspension on my 02 obs at the moment. Series is spot on
The two things you buy to make a car faster are tyres and brakes. Now that it’s rolling, tyres and brakes, my boys!
Happy you picked the BC’s these are 🔥
Now that its lower you guys should seriously look into a roll center adjustment kit and an anti-lift kit. The roll center adjustment kit will correct your suspension geometry and the anti-lift kit will add a bit of caster which will reduce understeer.
This is absolutely the best thing going on car youtube at the moment.
Pls do bracing and sway bars next. Simple bracing like bolt on strut tower bars and an X brace underneath, and super cheap sway bars. They will probably give you the most bang for your buck handling improvements after doing struts, and can be had for very cheap!
This series is great. I own an 05 Saab 92x aero (wrx wagon) that I currently daily, but also plan to make a track car.
I also have a blown-out front driveshaft boot that sprayed grease everywhere, a small crack in my windscreen & a nearly dead clutch (after 175k miles).
And I also had planned go get those BC coilovers for it lol.. TWINSS!!!😁
get 24 mm whiteline rear anti roll bar with heavy duty mounts and drop links and subframe lock in bolts, whitelinte front drop links, maybe 22mm front anti roll bar but not really needed and bump steer and roll centre kit and poly bush steering rack bushes help alot on an impreza as i fitted these to my impreza and makes hell of a difference and my alignment i run 1.4mm negative camber front 0 toe and 0.8mm-1.2 mm negative camber rear with 1mm toe out good fast road/track alignment for Subarus and front and rear sturt braces for 500-600 quid big difference and your steering and suspension will be sorted hope this helps 👍
I enjoyed watching this.
Love seeing this type of challenge
Some good semislicks should make a huge difference to your lap time. Looking forward to it
Brake pads and tyres were the 2 biggest upgrades to our racing 206gti.
Tyres 0.3g improvement to a total of 1g, Pads 0.3g in braking. B4 pads even with the new tyres we could still only get 0.7g straight line braking.
You need an alignment, your tyres have positive camber during corning on inner corner. Would also recommend remove front sway bar, couldn't hear it but looked like it had a bit of understeer promoted by front sway bar.
BC Racing coilovers are magical. Amazing value for money
Interesting
not better than HK GT coils
garbage..like any other
My advice would be to use lightweight wheels, this would reduce unsprung weight on the suspension which will allow the spring to move up/down faster without oscillating, this will allow you to soften the dampers which improves the tyre contact on the ground.
If you are going to use grippier tyres, maybe buy smaller tyres and rims since the chassis in the car might not be stiff enough to take full advantage of extra potential grip and smaller wheels are lighter than larger ones so you can reduce unsprung mass yet again.
this channel has been good
Subscribed to miss the next one
It would have been sweet to have had a time before the clutch was replaced.
I love this series
tyres are gonna be the big one, up to 2 seconds i reckon if they are as close to slick as drive-able on the road. nothing is going to make up the power difference out of the corners though.
There are road-legal semi-slicks (e.g. Bridgestone RE11s (which might not be road legal) and Pirelli Trofeo (which is my local racing shop's options stocks))
Watched Pt.2 earlier today and was praying for the next installment to drop soon :)
This series is great
Love where this series is going. Some sticky tires, drop the weight and add power. Should do it
I like this series, more please.
Just the tires when suspension is properly alligned will reduce time by 2" or more.
Brilliant bid and good result! I'm a little shocked WRX wagon with knackered shocks is only 10 seconds off the pace of that Lambo!
Just a quick thought for consideration: With these cars even a very slight suspension drop can throw the front suspension geometry out by a air old way and in particular on these this will exaggerate the amount the tyres will go to positive camber when pushed which will lose you grip and put a lot of heat in the boots.
A quick and dirty way is to slap on a stronger rear ARB and leave the front be. That also done in conjunction with a roll centre correction kit for the front would transform this car yet again. An anti-lift kit would also be desirable but roll centre correction first to help keep more of the front tyres on the tarmac.
How to beat a super car on track.
Upgrade:
Suspension
Brake pads
Tires/wheels
Shave weight
And POWER.
Calling it now: the tires are going to be BY FAR the biggest improvement of them all!
Nah that'll be power
@@jama211 nope
guys please make this weekly relly looking forward to the next one