There is an old school way that may be better. Use an overhead projector and shine graph paper on the side of the car. There is no need to stop and check with an edge. Simply step out the way and see where the lines change.
Curious if you have seen anyone or have tried using painted walls with blue color and shop lights on the walls as well, like in a surfboard shaping room? They also use a flat black or green.
That sounds like the predecessor of the method I've seen for paintless dent removal, where they use a striped light cover and use the reflection to indicate where and how the surface changes occur. I do like the overhead projector idea better. In either case, the spline feels like it is exactly what I've been looking for. I've got a low area in an otherwise convex trunk lid, and I've been looking for a way to shape up that low. Also thanks for the tip on Rage Ultra Xtra, which is good for greater working time.
So many UA-cam channels about this kind of work... BUT, your channel is by far the BEST one out there. I really appreciate how detailed your videos are.
Use an overhead projector and you can see the high and low spots before and while working with your filler. You don't begin to sand until you have your surface really close to straight, I found using the overhead projector requires less filler because you sand off less when you have a straighter surface. Less filler lowers you cost and sanding less reduces your labor time.
You should make a video on this. We would love to see this process in action. If you don’t post to UA-cam send it to our email address. Sylvesterscustoms@yahoo.com Thank you for taking the time to comment and share. 👍
I should have put this in before but better late than never. The overhead projector will show the low spots before any filler gets applied. You start the filler in the low spots first. When your build up in the low spots gets close to straight the graph paper lines will be almost straight. One final thin top coat and you are ready to.sand using the lines to show you where more sanding is required. Just a little practice and you will eliminate all of the extra sanding steps and applying more filler. Then working extra carefully to sand everything back to straight.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS I'm almost 68 I retired years ago when they started making toilet paper disposable cars. I'm just passing along what worked really well for me many years ago. I've seen overhead projectors on ebay for $15. Mine was given to me. I shined on the wall and then on the side of a car while just goofing around. The graph paper lines showed every wave and dent where it shown on the car. I even used it to show customers how many places needed body work. Cars that looked ok with an old paint job showed dents and waves all down the sides of the cars. Move the projector head up and down a little and you find every tiny door ding and blemish on a car. It worked great at helping to make deals to buy cars when it shows 100 little places that need body work on the car the owner said was really straight.
Ultra Extra for the win! Talk about work time. Damn!!! Using the pencil the way you’ve shown in these videos has saved me tons of time and headaches. Simple and effective. Absolutely changed the way I tackled this project and no doubt I’m better for it 🔥
Yeah, we try really hard to keep the exact same consistent filler all the way through however, sometimes we have had to switch it up and that is a good way of seeing it
Beautiful illustration on how to properly do perfect body work from start to finish and how to use sanding blocks properly. Thank you for sharing I appreciate your hard work 👍💪💪💪💪
This video is amazing and VERY informative from the splines, body work, to the variety of blocks. Huge thank you for taking the time to share and create this video 👊
youre going to shake your head or laugh but a few months ago i adjusted the length of some window blinds , by removing bottom slats. these slats are 30 inches long, 2 inches wide and about 1/8" thick and made of a stiff poly . i save everything...and i was just looking at the pile of them wondering what i could do and use them for. i'll be using them to do this on my 51 chevy. mind you its not ever going to be a 100 point show vehicle , and theres only 2 doors . the front edge needs to be 1/16" proud of the front door jamb so if i only use it to check straight on the doors rear edge to cab , im fine with that . Not much flat real estate on this truck besides the bed panels but boy am i going to make it look as flat and smooth as I can. thanks for the tip .
excellent video as usual , that really takes some practice to get your hands to go easy on sanding . the arms & hands want to push hard to knock that mud down as quick as possible , but like you state , you are just ruining what you just fixed if you don't ' TRAIN " yourself to go easy on the touch to avoid having to constantly repeat the process ! " PRACTICE SURELY MAKES PERFECT" !!!!! KEEP UP THE GREAT VIDEOS , I AM LEARNING A LOT !!!!
Thanks for the amazing videos Travis! Do you have any tips on finishing the tail end on cars with the aluminum corners? My project is a 65 Impala and a previous repair is a mess on the seam here. Cheers!
Hi. I wanted to ask about aplying filler on epoxy in areas where after removing rust, appears some pits. Like half to 1sq inch in size, spot that is reletively straight, but with a lot of deep little pits. Atfer the primer is sprayed, how to sand these spot, cause there is no way to sand the bottom's of these pits, while sanding primer around and not sand to the metal?
I’d have to see it to determine best answer but we use 80 grit best we can. If it’s extremely pitted it may need to be replaced. If you are applying epoxy you have a 72 hour window for adhesion I recommend scuffing it as good as you can and go to filler asap within that window.
Melomotive splines are from Australia they got some great products i use their splines & Epoxy primer & they have a nice Satin black for stripes black out etc... once again great video & advice best wishes from down under...
Thank you for the comment and suggestion. We will definitely get into the sheet metal work on the 61 Impala build. We are in a holding pattern waiting on the roadster shop chassis to arrive. We will keep the channel posted. 👍
Santos Camacho awesome, thanks for supporting the companies we find that make great products. We Would love to see some progress on that Monte Carlo when you get your blocks. 🤘
For the Most Part the Body is straight and is rusted in the usual spots...the floor pans, the trunk gutter in the corner by back windshield and I have the edges of the hood rotted that's only spreading. The rest is patch panel work since I don't have a slide hammer and the copper studs to weld to pull dents out. I'll keep you posted
Love this video,,,, I’ve been doing it so wrong! By the way I used to own a 66 Lincoln convertible similar to the one in the background ❤️those cars mine and my dads now belongs to a third generation of car lover my nephew. Brings back a lot of memories of the original restoration over 40 years ago!
Wow! I kept wondering how you were gonna sand that down without ruining the good areas again until you used the spline itself. Genius. Also, does it hurt to have so much bondo in the gaps when you have a vehicle for everyday use, especially an old work truck? Will it break off with heavy usage?
Super cool explanation. I wish some good drywall guys or concrete guys could show you a few coming out tricks on application. Thanks for all the knowledge!
Great video as always. I have learnt lots from your lessons. Filling dents and welds was always my weakness. I have improved greatly thanks to your help. Thank you so much :)
I have a question..would it be ok to put new floor pans before I do the body mounts?..I'm thinking structural integrity before I put the body on a rottessoire or a body dolly. Thanks for your time.
I must be mixing in to much hardener because my rage gold sets up in half the time you were working it. I’m just afraid of not adding enough and it not curing.
We have a video specifically on this issue you need to be mixing your body filler on a scale that reads grams. Also, the reason that we are getting this kind of work time is because of the filler we are using. It is not rage gold, rage gold will not do this. This is a 50-50 mix of rage ultra and rage ultra extra. scroll way down to the video where it shows a 55 Chevy the video that got the most views. It should solve any of your issues.
I really appreciate the time that you take to do these videos! Thank you so much! You are an excellent teacher perhaps in the future you consider a career in teaching :-)
when you put the filler in door gap to hold door to do gapping, why do you take the door latch out instead of leaving it in to help hold door shut ? thanks Dan
First we get the metal work in the correct locations with rubber and latches in the car. After we remove it so no overspray or filler get on any hardware. 👌🏻
They are not selling them anymore they don’t sell anything now 🥲 you can always order Freeman Sheetwax if you Google it you can call them and order it in any thickness that you would like. I recommend 3/16 inch.
Michaelangelos advice he said when ever you’re working and you need to take a break get as far away from your work as possible then come back . It becomes something different .
They quit selling them unfortunately. However look up freeman sheet wax it works better in my opinion you can order it in whatever thickness you want. 👌🏻
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS hey Travis probably a dumb question. You mentioned when spraying VP2050 your air pressure is 38psi. Is this pressure with gun pulled and applying paint or supply pressure to the gun before applying paint
Great info, used a spline today, so helpful. Also liked how you changed my view on how to fill and my time expectations regarding filler hardening. So much less sanding. You've earned a new subscriber. :)
i have a question ,working on 1956 nomad aligning doors and ready to put body filler to hold gaps in place. the bottom back corner to the body is 1/16 in pulls out easily but if you adjust it out and when done when you put weather stripping on it will probably stick out 1/16 from the pressure of the weatherstrips, had this happen before ,i know you take out the latches when you put filler to hold door ,would it be a bad idea to put latck on and a new or old weatherstrip to hold it where its going to be?? thanks Dan Hughes
I saw your video on using Rage Bondo to skim coat the Cadillac trunk. I was almost through with all of my bodywork and previous filler but I decided to go ahead and try your method to get it to the next level. What you failed to mention is that if you put that product over PPG K 38 high build primer, it will lift the primer and probably the epoxy beneath the primer. I spent all day today removing all of that expensive Bondo. It sure would have been nice to know this in advance. However, your videos are very well done. Thank you.
Years ago I did a 59 Impala. Perfect panel to panel match. During final assembly, the doors became slightly proud due to the weatherstripping. How do you address this? Weatherstripping is expensive, and gluing brand new weatherstrip in to get gaps right then destroying it upon removal to paint the jambs seems a waste. Love to know your trick, or even a video on how you do it.
I'm so glad I came upon these videos. I've been doing my first project and was gonna source a body man. But honestly you make me believe I can do it myself. Worst thing I do is make a mess and sand it all off so here goes nothing 🤘🏼
Can’t go wrong! That’s basically the same thing I’m using just a different brand. The only reason we went with melomotive was they had a longer spline for a larger curve
Hey mate does the pencil lead on the filler create any problems like you said marker pens bleed through , so is there any problem with the lead form the pencil? Thanks.
The graphite in guide coat is the same as a pencil. However guide coat should be scuffed off before adding filler. The use of the pencil is to be marked on the area that is already bodyworked flat. Therefore once everything becomes level or flat and the shape is desired the pencil is removed once you upgrade grits. It will not affect it if a mark of a pencil is left.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS Thanks do you need to remove all of the pencil graphite completely , before you prime ? I really enjoy your work and vids , very informative , cheers from down here in Australia..
Another great video. Love how you explain the technical details. Hand placement, pressure points, etc. I could have used those splines on this 68 F100. The doors seem flat but have a slight compound curve top to bottom and side to side. Gave me fits for a while. Those spacers are slick. I'll have to pick those up. Seems like they take some guess work away. Curves can sometimes be trickier than flat panels. Noticed in the background the two shades of VP2050. You can always tell when it's been sitting a little longer. It starts to turn green for some reason. Keep making these. I've been telling people I work with to check it out.
Great info thanks. Question, do you recommend using fiberglass reinforced filler vs standard filler? Since fiberglass reinforced is water proof it seems to make more sense. Also, it would seem to be stronger for edge related repairs. Thanks for the vids!
No I do not. Fiberglass and metal expand and contract at different rates. I recommend epoxy priming car and do fillerwork over epoxy. As far as edges that needs to be made of metal not a filler for best results
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS Understood about the edges and not using just filler, I should have made myself more clear! I was referring to a higher strength filler near the edges/higher impact areas. Would it be safer to apply a fiberglass reinforced filler over the epoxy primer? Thanks for the info!
I like your videos, they're really instructional and helpful in a lot of ways. One thing that I was a little bit bummed out about is in one of your videos that you mentioned something about bad Chad. I haven't seen many videos where you guys are trying to put someone else down and I have seen a lot of bad chats videos and I think they're great. They are different than yours but they are still informative and educational. I just wanted to mention that. I'm still going to watch your videos cuz I think you're doing a great job and all the best to you and yours
There is an old school way that may be better. Use an overhead projector and shine graph paper on the side of the car. There is no need to stop and check with an edge. Simply step out the way and see where the lines change.
Thank you for sharing and watching our channel.
Curious if you have seen anyone or have tried using painted walls with blue color and shop lights on the walls as well, like in a surfboard shaping room? They also use a flat black or green.
That sounds like the predecessor of the method I've seen for paintless dent removal, where they use a striped light cover and use the reflection to indicate where and how the surface changes occur. I do like the overhead projector idea better.
In either case, the spline feels like it is exactly what I've been looking for. I've got a low area in an otherwise convex trunk lid, and I've been looking for a way to shape up that low. Also thanks for the tip on Rage Ultra Xtra, which is good for greater working time.
@@rwthomasify check out melomotive and or I’ve heard of a spline called the blade all will work great
@@rwthomasify i think its where paintless got the idea
So many UA-cam channels about this kind of work... BUT, your channel is by far the BEST one out there. I really appreciate how detailed your videos are.
Thank you very much
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS 👍🤝
Use an overhead projector and you can see the high and low spots before and while working with your filler. You don't begin to sand until you have your surface really close to straight, I found using the overhead projector requires less filler because you sand off less when you have a straighter surface. Less filler lowers you cost and sanding less reduces your labor time.
You should make a video on this. We would love to see this process in action. If you don’t post to UA-cam send it to our email address. Sylvesterscustoms@yahoo.com
Thank you for taking the time to comment and share. 👍
I should have put this in before but better late than never. The overhead projector will show the low spots before any filler gets applied. You start the filler in the low spots first. When your build up in the low spots gets close to straight the graph paper lines will be almost straight. One final thin top coat and you are ready to.sand using the lines to show you where more sanding is required. Just a little practice and you will eliminate all of the extra sanding steps and applying more filler. Then working extra carefully to sand everything back to straight.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS I'm almost 68 I retired years ago when they started making toilet paper disposable cars. I'm just passing along what worked really well for me many years ago. I've seen overhead projectors on ebay for $15. Mine was given to me. I shined on the wall and then on the side of a car while just goofing around. The graph paper lines showed every wave and dent where it shown on the car. I even used it to show customers how many places needed body work. Cars that looked ok with an old paint job showed dents and waves all down the sides of the cars. Move the projector head up and down a little and you find every tiny door ding and blemish on a car. It worked great at helping to make deals to buy cars when it shows 100 little places that need body work on the car the owner said was really straight.
@@foxmaine3921 I get what you're doing, it's the same idea as the reflected grid that paintless dent repair techs use. Very cool idea.
@@jhenderson999 Exactly! Bravo!
Great video! You are one amazing teacher. Thank you for taking the time to make these. Much appreciated.
Thank you!
There is no law I can't watch this video 3 times. Maybe 3 beers ago but it's sinking in! Thanks Travis, well done!
Glad you enjoyed it!
We can tell LoL 😂😂 you missed some words but who cares LoL 😂😂😂
Ultra Extra for the win! Talk about work time. Damn!!! Using the pencil the way you’ve shown in these videos has saved me tons of time and headaches. Simple and effective. Absolutely changed the way I tackled this project and no doubt I’m better for it 🔥
So glad to hear buddy!!
Your a Superior teacher of this skill...I did this in my work taught to me from my boss many years ago...Great job thank you...
Awesome, thank you!
One trick I've used over the years is to use a different colored Bondo that way when you send it you kind of know where you're at
Yeah, we try really hard to keep the exact same consistent filler all the way through however, sometimes we have had to switch it up and that is a good way of seeing it
Beautiful illustration on how to properly do perfect body work from start to finish and how to use sanding blocks properly. Thank you for sharing I appreciate your hard work 👍💪💪💪💪
Thank you!!
What about filler on the door an fender edges are u worried about chipping down the road
No that’s why part 1 of this tutorial is welding the gap close in metal. 👍🏻
Awesome tips, you really make it look easy and anyone who has spread a lot of mud knows how difficult it can be.
Thank you very much
This video is amazing and VERY informative from the splines, body work, to the variety of blocks. Huge thank you for taking the time to share and create this video 👊
Thanks brother love watching you guys kill it!!
I use different color hardner when using multiple coats of filler it helps me know how much I'm removing
Whatever works 👍🏻
Literally the only body work teacher that I understand... out of probably 50 I've tried on UA-cam. Thank you Travis 🤘
Thank you very much 👊🏻
100% one of his best videos in this objective!!!❤
🤔 i’m pretty sure Michelangelo said that scope it it
In 1574 the day he was born when he was gone I am positive he said it to his co worker
Need to get yourself a set🤣😂👍🇺🇸 of Billy sticks from Bondo Billy
youre going to shake your head or laugh but a few months ago i adjusted the length of some window blinds , by removing bottom slats. these slats are 30 inches long, 2 inches wide and about 1/8" thick and made of a stiff poly . i save everything...and i was just looking at the pile of them wondering what i could do and use them for. i'll be using them to do this on my 51 chevy. mind you its not ever going to be a 100 point show vehicle , and theres only 2 doors . the front edge needs to be 1/16" proud of the front door jamb so if i only use it to check straight on the doors rear edge to cab , im fine with that . Not much flat real estate on this truck besides the bed panels but boy am i going to make it look as flat and smooth as I can. thanks for the tip .
hahahahahahahahahahaha there ya go! Perfect!!
excellent video as usual , that really takes some practice to get your hands to go easy on sanding . the arms & hands want to push hard to knock that mud down as quick as possible , but like you state , you are just ruining what you just fixed if you don't
' TRAIN " yourself to go easy on the touch to avoid having to constantly repeat the process ! " PRACTICE SURELY MAKES PERFECT" !!!!! KEEP UP THE GREAT VIDEOS , I AM LEARNING A LOT !!!!
Thank you very much!
You are teaching really good. I have a hobby to watch and learn from videos. Your videos are inspirational. Thank lot to teaching right ways.
Awesome glad to hear it. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the amazing videos Travis! Do you have any tips on finishing the tail end on cars with the aluminum corners? My project is a 65 Impala and a previous repair is a mess on the seam here. Cheers!
Unfortunately without seeing it I don’t have much input I’m sorry
Hi. I wanted to ask about aplying filler on epoxy in areas where after removing rust, appears some pits. Like half to 1sq inch in size, spot that is reletively straight, but with a lot of deep little pits. Atfer the primer is sprayed, how to sand these spot, cause there is no way to sand the bottom's of these pits, while sanding primer around and not sand to the metal?
I’d have to see it to determine best answer but we use 80 grit best we can. If it’s extremely pitted it may need to be replaced. If you are applying epoxy you have a 72 hour window for adhesion I recommend scuffing it as good as you can and go to filler asap within that window.
Good teacher
Thank you! 😃
Melomotive splines are from Australia they got some great products i use their splines & Epoxy primer & they have a nice Satin black for stripes black out etc... once again great video & advice best wishes from down under...
Thank you!! We love our splines!
Love your channel!..it's put me on game!..I'm confident about my build now!...I'd like to see some sheet metal work
Thank you for the comment and suggestion. We will definitely get into the sheet metal work on the 61 Impala build. We are in a holding pattern waiting on the roadster shop chassis to arrive. We will keep the channel posted. 👍
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS your welcome..God Bless you!..I bought some Next level sanding blocks..thanks for your advice..I have a 88 LS Monte Carlo.
Santos Camacho awesome, thanks for supporting the companies we find that make great products. We Would love to see some progress on that Monte Carlo when you get your blocks. 🤘
For the Most Part the Body is straight and is rusted in the usual spots...the floor pans, the trunk gutter in the corner by back windshield and I have the edges of the hood rotted that's only spreading. The rest is patch panel work since I don't have a slide hammer and the copper studs to weld to pull dents out. I'll keep you posted
Love this video,,,, I’ve been doing it so wrong! By the way I used to own a 66 Lincoln convertible similar to the one in the background ❤️those cars mine and my dads now belongs to a third generation of car lover my nephew. Brings back a lot of memories of the original restoration over 40 years ago!
Thank you!!
new subscriber sir im from philippines..thank u for sharing ur talent and idea...very imformative
Thank you
Wow! I kept wondering how you were gonna sand that down without ruining the good areas again until you used the spline itself. Genius. Also, does it hurt to have so much bondo in the gaps when you have a vehicle for everyday use, especially an old work truck? Will it break off with heavy usage?
These gaps are already where they need to be in metal. You don’t want to use the filler to create the gap
Super cool explanation. I wish some good drywall guys or concrete guys could show you a few coming out tricks on application. Thanks for all the knowledge!
Thank you!
Thanks for the videos and recommendation for next level blocks. Got it within that week or week after. Awesome blocks!!! Thanks again
You got it, hope you love them as much as we do.
been sanding bondo for many yrs and still finding great tips from others thanks
Thank you!
fortunate to have the opportunity to learn on these Great videos. Thank you, my project is coming out sharp
Awesome!! Thank you!
Plateau! A light bulb moment. Ty
Great video as always. I have learnt lots from your lessons. Filling dents and welds was always my weakness. I have improved greatly thanks to your help. Thank you so much :)
That is so awesome you are welcome
i could use this on late models now
I have a question..would it be ok to put new floor pans before I do the body mounts?..I'm thinking structural integrity before I put the body on a rottessoire or a body dolly. Thanks for your time.
Yes just brace up the body before you cut it apart
Right on..Thanks again!..Can't wait to see what's next on your channel.
I must be mixing in to much hardener because my rage gold sets up in half the time you were working it. I’m just afraid of not adding enough and it not curing.
We have a video specifically on this issue you need to be mixing your body filler on a scale that reads grams. Also, the reason that we are getting this kind of work time is because of the filler we are using. It is not rage gold, rage gold will not do this. This is a 50-50 mix of rage ultra and rage ultra extra. scroll way down to the video where it shows a 55 Chevy the video that got the most views. It should solve any of your issues.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS awesome, thanks for the info 🍻
Thanks
Thank you very much we appreciate it!!!
Very educational. Good camera work on this also! Thx
Thank you!!
How are you keeping your Bondo from drying up I've never seen it able to work it that long
Rage ultra and ultra extra 50/50 mix we talk about it often in our videos and in our classes sylvesterscustoms.com
I really appreciate the time that you take to do these videos! Thank you so much! You are an excellent teacher perhaps in the future you consider a career in teaching :-)
You're very welcome! We actually do teach classes periodically
Thank you for your reply 😊
when you put the filler in door gap to hold door to do gapping, why do you take the door latch out instead of leaving it in to help hold door shut ? thanks Dan
First we get the metal work in the correct locations with rubber and latches in the car. After we remove it so no overspray or filler get on any hardware. 👌🏻
Hi, can I find True blocks caps tool anywhere anymore?
They are not selling them anymore they don’t sell anything now 🥲 you can always order Freeman Sheetwax if you Google it you can call them and order it in any thickness that you would like. I recommend 3/16 inch.
You are an excellent instructor, really enjoy your videos!
Thank you!
Bruh, this video just changed my life ❤
Glad it helped buddy
Michaelangelos advice he said when ever you’re working and you need to take a break get as far away from your work as possible then come back . It becomes something different .
Great Job. Thanks for the detail videos.
Thank you!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
My pleasure!
I never thought to do this. I've used a similar technique doing drywall....you may have mentioned that already.
Always the professor! Thanks!
You are welcome!
Where else would we be able to get the true block gap tools. In there website they are sold out
They quit selling them unfortunately. However look up freeman sheet wax it works better in my opinion you can order it in whatever thickness you want. 👌🏻
Another great and informative video!
Thank you very much
Thanks for the good info and the video!
Thank you
The day I get into auto body work...I'll need the pressure washer to clean me off
When you are this good, this looks do easy. It’s not.
Thank you!
Best panel/spray paint learning site on UA-cam bud
Very much appreciated!
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS hey Travis probably a dumb question. You mentioned when spraying VP2050 your air pressure is 38psi. Is this pressure with gun pulled and applying paint or supply pressure to the gun before applying paint
So cool!! Love it💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽😎😎😎
Thank you!
Unbelievably skilled teacher.
Thank you very much
Is there another tool i can buy or make like that “true gap” plastic?
Id hate to buy that tool when im only working on my truck c10 1970.
You can order freeman sheet wax in 3/16” also that’s what we also use
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS great idea. Thanks!!!
I shaved the drip rails on the cab of my 1970 c10 and i was surprised how much of a gap I have now. Hopefully that sheet helps me out.
Great info, used a spline today, so helpful. Also liked how you changed my view on how to fill and my time expectations regarding filler hardening. So much less sanding. You've earned a new subscriber. :)
Glad it was helpful! Thank you!
Respect
i have a question ,working on 1956 nomad aligning doors and ready to put body filler to hold gaps in place. the bottom back corner to the body is 1/16 in pulls out easily but if you adjust it out and when done when you put weather stripping on it will probably stick out 1/16 from the pressure of the weatherstrips, had this happen before ,i know you take out the latches when you put filler to hold door ,would it be a bad idea to put latck on and a new or old weatherstrip to hold it where its going to be?? thanks Dan Hughes
It is a must to install weatherstrips and latches. You must then make adjustments to get the fit desired
Excellent attention to detail.
Thank you!
I saw your video on using Rage Bondo to skim coat the Cadillac trunk. I was almost through with all of my bodywork and previous filler but I decided to go ahead and try your method to get it to the next level. What you failed to mention is that if you put that product over PPG K 38 high build primer, it will lift the primer and probably the epoxy beneath the primer. I spent all day today removing all of that expensive Bondo. It sure would have been nice to know this in advance. However, your videos are very well done. Thank you.
Didn’t know I failed to mention something I’ve never done 🙄 i show what we used. I can’t control what you learn on your own.
Years ago I did a 59 Impala. Perfect panel to panel match. During final assembly, the doors became slightly proud due to the weatherstripping. How do you address this? Weatherstripping is expensive, and gluing brand new weatherstrip in to get gaps right then destroying it upon removal to paint the jambs seems a waste. Love to know your trick, or even a video on how you do it.
We tape the weatherstrips in really good set our strikers etc then lock the door in with filler until everything is ready to come apart for paint.
very cool
👌🏻👍🏻
I'm so glad I came upon these videos. I've been doing my first project and was gonna source a body man. But honestly you make me believe I can do it myself. Worst thing I do is make a mess and sand it all off so here goes nothing 🤘🏼
You can do it!
Do you have a video that goes over the process to cut out that residual door gap filler and how to do the final finishing of the door edge and jamb?
I don’t believe so. Not yet at least. We use an air saw or cut off wheel then grab a door panel pry tool and pop it open.
Good job man
Thank you !!
Great tips
Thank you
Holy cow,, super long work time on the filler!
It’s the best we have used. However once you hit 105 degrees it doesn’t work as well.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS what was the temp when u made the video? Looks like night time .
Thanks for the video! Terry at Exactline tools has been teaching this method for years "The Blade" good stuff!
I actually want to buy his blade soon 👍🏻
Thoughts on those long body filler spreaders like "The Blade" from Exactline Tools?
Can’t go wrong! That’s basically the same thing I’m using just a different brand. The only reason we went with melomotive was they had a longer spline for a larger curve
We will see you next wreck.
Next wreck?
This is another great "meat & potatoes" video. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Thank you!
i usually work on American muscle cars. what spline would you recommend?
Splines from melomotive are hands down my favorite I have both brands
What is an alternative method if you can’t get the True Block Gap tools?
Use anything that is the desired thickness like a brake line that’s 3/16.
This dude was a dry Waller I’m his past . Good job though
🤣🤣
How do you finish inside the door and the quarter panel after you use the gap tool?
Open it at the end and scuff up and skim coat it
Super educational video. Appreciate your content.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Have you tried Orion Automotive Finishes Body filler yet? I love love it! Plenty of work time, and sands very easy, plus no pin holes!
I have not. I knew they had paint and primer but I did not know they had body filler
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS Oh Brother, They have 2 different types, and I LOVE IT!
Hey mate does the pencil lead on the filler create any problems like you said marker pens bleed through , so is there any problem with the lead form the pencil? Thanks.
The graphite in guide coat is the same as a pencil. However guide coat should be scuffed off before adding filler. The use of the pencil is to be marked on the area that is already bodyworked flat. Therefore once everything becomes level or flat and the shape is desired the pencil is removed once you upgrade grits. It will not affect it if a mark of a pencil is left.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS Thanks do you need to remove all of the pencil graphite completely , before you prime ? I really enjoy your work and vids , very informative , cheers from down here in Australia..
Another great video. Love how you explain the technical details. Hand placement, pressure points, etc. I could have used those splines on this 68 F100. The doors seem flat but have a slight compound curve top to bottom and side to side. Gave me fits for a while. Those spacers are slick. I'll have to pick those up. Seems like they take some guess work away. Curves can sometimes be trickier than flat panels. Noticed in the background the two shades of VP2050. You can always tell when it's been sitting a little longer. It starts to turn green for some reason. Keep making these. I've been telling people I work with to check it out.
Thank you for spreading the word!!
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS "Spreading" Nice one.
@@theinsaneshecklador6598
Nice catch! I totally missed that one.
Great info thanks. Question, do you recommend using fiberglass reinforced filler vs standard filler? Since fiberglass reinforced is water proof it seems to make more sense. Also, it would seem to be stronger for edge related repairs. Thanks for the vids!
No I do not. Fiberglass and metal expand and contract at different rates. I recommend epoxy priming car and do fillerwork over epoxy. As far as edges that needs to be made of metal not a filler for best results
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS Understood about the edges and not using just filler, I should have made myself more clear! I was referring to a higher strength filler near the edges/higher impact areas. Would it be safer to apply a fiberglass reinforced filler over the epoxy primer? Thanks for the info!
@@ZING-oj6zi I personally am not a fan but that’s just me.
Thank you for showing how beautifully straight cars are made.
Thanks for watching!
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS wouldn’t miss it, you give cutting edge tips that help people like me get better at our craft
@@MrFireman164 love hearing that.
amazing teacher and for free
Thank you
Great video man I'm on it 👍
👊🏻👊🏻
Awesome thanks 🙏
You're welcome 😊
Muito bom.👏👏
Thank you!
I like your videos, they're really instructional and helpful in a lot of ways. One thing that I was a little bit bummed out about is in one of your videos that you mentioned something about bad Chad. I haven't seen many videos where you guys are trying to put someone else down and I have seen a lot of bad chats videos and I think they're great. They are different than yours but they are still informative and educational. I just wanted to mention that. I'm still going to watch your videos cuz I think you're doing a great job and all the best to you and yours
Thanks. Bad Chad is entertainment but it’s not educational. What he’s teaching is what you don’t want. I’ll leave it at that.