One of the really important things that comes with experience is knowing when to stop the rough in sanding and switch to a finer grit before you remove too much material. One example of this would be understanding that a finer grit like 220 or 320 will smooth spot putty without removing the filler around it if finessed properly. On the issue of spreading contours, sometimes you can cut a squeegee from the flat side of a plastic jug, like a coolant jug and it will conform to the contour without dragging the filler out. Your ABC repair strategy makes a lot of sense too. We used to use a similar process to describe the Visual inspection zones on cars, where the A zone was the most visible, B was higher or lower, and C was generally very low or high.
Hands down, your tutorial videos are the most informative instructional videos for automotive body, and paint. Your presentation is easy to understand and the content layed out in a step by step format that is on point. Thanks again for another great video. Very much appreciated.
Thank you mate. You are spot on. Its not everybody’s piece of cake and eat it all. I have been in trade for five years and do skim the panels day in day out but struggle to get this type of filler work absolutely right. I am a big fan of your pencil circle method. Keep these videos coming mate. Thanks a million. Ajay
Once again, straight to the point with something as difficult as a fender edge transition. Know how to identify what to do and what to leave alone. And as always, knowing when to stop! Home run Travis. DK, Omaha. How about aftermarket parts, to thick or to thin. Cut, fill, weld and best practices when not OE and never fit. Just an idea. You should have 12k subscribed or more. My best!
@@deankay4434 Day at a time Dean. Gearing up for winter in Northern Indiana. 😞 Trying to get my outside vehicle work done ( sandblasting, etc.) before the weather turns. Keep checking in here for more tricks of the trade. Great videos
@@class5bodyworks If you remember as a kid, and winter meant snow or Christmas. Each kids idea of winter time fun was different. We had "Tabogans" basically a 9 foot sled we pulled behind a tractor in an open hay field and whip a sharp turn to accelerate from 16 MPH to 80. You always lost the last three guys due to "G-Forces." Now, I hate winter with a tiny 1.5 car garage empty, then your retire from a mechanic and I brought the SnapOn tool boxes home on a flat bed tow truck. Holly Molly, that garage got extra small. I can't stand winter now. You have a good one Chris. Regards from Omaha. The home of College Baseball, SAC air museum, #1 Zoo in the world and Omaha Steaks, just north on 94th off "L-Street."
@@deankay4434 Same here except with a 4 wheeler and a sled or snow board. Winter is still fun if you can play but driving, shoveling, etc. stinks. These spoiled people out in California have no idea. 😂 Have yourself a good one as well.
I always shine a light down the side of the panel before primer it says a lot also use a gauge remember it only takes a couple thousands out of tolerance to show up in the paint job but very good illustration
A lot of aftermarket stuff needs to be tweaked..body lines that are off or they arrive with damage..not that I am complaining because it is a hell of a lot better than not having them.
The aftermarket sheet metal had come a long way. I do a lot of classic Mustangs and I'd take aftermarket over OE anytime. I was somewhat nervous getting AM doors for a 79 TA and 70 Blazer but they fit great with some adjustments. Still have to weld edges for proper gaps but I was doing that with OE anyway. At least I know AM is rust free.
Great videos!!! Question I have is; I'm restoring a 1975 Ford Bronco aftermarket panels are horrible to align panel to panel. Most are off by 1/16-1/8" out of alignment. Would you use filler to make those panels line up? Thanks for your time.....
Im lookin to paint my 54 Chopped Chevy with Flat red metallic paint, was wondering if you could do a video regarding the application of flat metallic paint?
Hey Sylvester I can’t find you video set on stripping and priming and body work on a vehicle. I am currently working on a 59 and need to strip the existing paint and re do the body work and paint it. Just want to know the best way to get this done I have a blaster but it takes too long and right now I am Mechanically stripping it
One of the really important things that comes with experience is knowing when to stop the rough in sanding and switch to a finer grit before you remove too much material. One example of this would be understanding that a finer grit like 220 or 320 will smooth spot putty without removing the filler around it if finessed properly.
On the issue of spreading contours, sometimes you can cut a squeegee from the flat side of a plastic jug, like a coolant jug and it will conform to the contour without dragging the filler out. Your ABC repair strategy makes a lot of sense too. We used to use a similar process to describe the Visual inspection zones on cars, where the A zone was the most visible, B was higher or lower, and C was generally very low or high.
Hands down, your tutorial videos are the most informative instructional videos for automotive body, and paint. Your presentation is easy to understand and the content layed out in a step by step format that is on point. Thanks again for another great video. Very much appreciated.
Glad to help
Doing a steel 32 roadster with dark paint finish. Curves curves curves! Thanks for the video
You are welcome!!
You explain your job very well. One of the best if not " the best" in my opinion
Much appreciated 👍🏻👌🏻
Yup. I haven't found another channel that presents the information so clearly and in such detail.
Good advice, I can't imagine hour many hundreds of hours you spent working on the '55 to get it so straight, beautiful work
Thank you!!
Thank you mate. You are spot on. Its not everybody’s piece of cake and eat it all. I have been in trade for five years and do skim the panels day in day out but struggle to get this type of filler work absolutely right. I am a big fan of your pencil circle method. Keep these videos coming mate. Thanks a million. Ajay
Thank you!!
Love your videos for content and information .... best on the net .....
Thank you!!
Once again, straight to the point with something as difficult as a fender edge transition. Know how to identify what to do and what to leave alone. And as always, knowing when to stop! Home run Travis. DK, Omaha.
How about aftermarket parts, to thick or to thin. Cut, fill, weld and best practices when not OE and never fit. Just an idea.
You should have 12k subscribed or more. My best!
Hello Dean
@@class5bodyworks How you doing? Can believe the year is almost gone. DK
@@deankay4434
Day at a time Dean. Gearing up for winter in Northern Indiana. 😞 Trying to get my outside vehicle work done ( sandblasting, etc.) before the weather turns. Keep checking in here for more tricks of the trade. Great videos
@@class5bodyworks If you remember as a kid, and winter meant snow or Christmas. Each kids idea of winter time fun was different. We had "Tabogans" basically a 9 foot sled we pulled behind a tractor in an open hay field and whip a sharp turn to accelerate from 16 MPH to 80. You always lost the last three guys due to "G-Forces." Now, I hate winter with a tiny 1.5 car garage empty, then your retire from a mechanic and I brought the SnapOn tool boxes home on a flat bed tow truck. Holly Molly, that garage got extra small. I can't stand winter now. You have a good one Chris.
Regards from Omaha.
The home of College Baseball, SAC air museum, #1 Zoo in the world and Omaha Steaks, just north on 94th off "L-Street."
@@deankay4434
Same here except with a 4 wheeler and a sled or snow board. Winter is still fun if you can play but driving, shoveling, etc. stinks. These spoiled people out in California have no idea. 😂 Have yourself a good one as well.
You are a very good instructor. Thanks
Thanh you
great info well explained ... Brilliant
Thank you!!
Great one
Thank you
I always shine a light down the side of the panel before primer it says a lot also use a gauge remember it only takes a couple thousands out of tolerance to show up in the paint job but very good illustration
You are so correct we do that also 👌🏻
Why not get an after market fender that’s already straight so as not to use so much filler??
A lot of aftermarket stuff needs to be tweaked..body lines that are off or they arrive with damage..not that I am complaining because it is a hell of a lot better than not having them.
The aftermarket sheet metal had come a long way. I do a lot of classic Mustangs and I'd take aftermarket over OE anytime. I was somewhat nervous getting AM doors for a 79 TA and 70 Blazer but they fit great with some adjustments. Still have to weld edges for proper gaps but I was doing that with OE anyway. At least I know AM is rust free.
Have I struggled with this...not yet, but I'm sure I will. I'm attending the Sylvester Body works YT before I royally ***k up a project
🤣🤣🤣🤣 👌🏻👊🏻🙌🏻
Travis I enjoy your vids
Thank you
Great videos!!! Question I have is; I'm restoring a 1975 Ford Bronco aftermarket panels are horrible to align panel to panel. Most are off by 1/16-1/8" out of alignment. Would you use filler to make those panels line up? Thanks for your time.....
No we will adjust the sheet metal to fit then skim coat the car 👍🏻 sometimes cutting and welding is necessary
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS OK Thanks for replying.
You vid the other day where you used the highlighter to expose warping amazed me was that wet or dry ,I wanna learn
Wet or dry warps it.
I want to do my 54 Belair hardtop in satin black, Would this be a "single stage"? Thanks for the informative videos!
If I were you I’d recommend using a satin clear over black basecoat.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS interesing what is the advantages of this and is the look the same?
Im lookin to paint my 54 Chopped Chevy with Flat red metallic paint, was wondering if you could do a video regarding the application of flat metallic paint?
I don’t have that just laying around
just bought NOS GM drivers side quarter panel for 66 chevelle man had in storage over 25 years one more piece to the puzzle
Those are hard to find!!
What clear coat do you like?
Vc5700 ppg clear but it’s on national backorder currently.
👍
Hey Sylvester I can’t find you video set on stripping and priming and body work on a vehicle. I am currently working on a 59 and need to strip the existing paint and re do the body work and paint it. Just want to know the best way to get this done I have a blaster but it takes too long and right now I am Mechanically stripping it
Stripper discs work the best
I really like the explanation, but action (you showing how to do it by actually filling and sanding) is always a better teacher.
The other videos we have show it in detail.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS thank you sir, that just made me a subscriber 👍
Have you ever tried using those Styrofoam noodles to block 🤣...I thought about trying to use one.
Yes but very rarely.
Men… I was about to search up a video on how to do this lmfao
Hope it helps you