Travis, as usual you provide an excellent tutorial on every stage of the process. You should have 1 million upvotes for every one of your videos. I thank you for all the help you have provided me. Thanks, Paul
Just splined my 68 DeVille - the melomotive kit works great on those long slab sides and flat hood/deck lid - amazing the lows they pickup on the subtle curves - easy to learn - filler work in 1 week singlehanded
Даже не досмотрев видео до конца, хочу поблагодарить за то что вы выпускаетк такие ролики. Мне очень помогло при ремонте своего авто. Смотрю с субтитрами. Не всегда перевод корректен, но смысл понятен. Спасибо и удачи вам!
It doesn’t get better than a great video full of excellent information. Love that mix-temp chart. Was EverCoat watching you! Wow, 20 minutes at 50/50 at high temps. Great information is never boring. Thanks Travis so much stay current on our builds as I just took delivery on 4 gallons of sprayable epoxy black. I too use the contrast to find panel defects. Thank you kindly!
Thanks Sylvester. Very nice video. I actually watched some of your videos last night and did a refresher this morning. I’m presently restoring a 55 Ford F100. As usual it was a rust bucket. I had to replace pretty much everything on the bottom of the cab and replaced bottoms of doors. I’ve completed all of the metal work and took the doors off for now. The gaps and alignment was very close. While I have the doors off I decided to kitty hair the door seams and do an initial skim coat. Once I get this done I will then attach the doors, skim coat the rest of the body and add to the doors if needed. I was a little apprehensive about adding that much filler to a large area. Thru your guidance I was able to get a good cover and get my first 80 grit sanding done today. Tomorrow I plan on adding filler to the low spots and continue the process. Thanks again for the great videos.
I remember as a kid not being accurate with the filler/hardener and when you put filler over filler if you had breakthrough the different hardness of the filler sanded differently. Its obvious to me now but then I was young and dumb. Great tutorial. You guys do awesome work.
Picked up a couple pointers can’t wait to give them a try. I watch every single one of your videos and have adapted my bodywork technique because of the lessons you’re teaching on this channel. I’m a one man shop at the moment I always had a body tech and I love being a painter but I’m starting to fall in love with bodywork. The feeling of accomplishment when you get it right is more gratifying than laying down a glass finish in my opinion.
Thank you sir. Also I like very much the way the spline removes your ridge lines from the spreaders. Being a beginner for sure, I seem to have a problem with us over sanding.
Awesome video. I've been doing body work for a number of years. I'm self taught for the most part but I learned some things in this video. Appreciate ya. Make some more if ya would please. And come to PA, id take your class.
Brian, I absolutely love your videos and I've learned so much from you! I taught myself painting a few years back by painting my car (many times) and I was so bad at NOT observing cleaning that I thought it was normal to cut-buff after painting. I didn't realize that you could get a beautiful clear coat right after you shot it. However, I never had as bad a problem with fish eyes as you did in this video. In fact, I used to tell people it didn't matter how clean it is -I can paint successfully over dirt. I discovered that the ONLY thing you MUST observe is to make sure NO oil is present. Of course, I've seen the light since then :-) Long story short: I think your blower is introducing oil into the air. That's my guess.
surprise surprise another very informative video lol thank you... the melomotive guys are brilliant Pete & Lincoln do day classes around Australia They always spend time with us even a a quick call they are happy to help i realize it dosent help any one in the States but its their passion not just a job & the products are proof from the splines to their Epoxy & polyprimers... the splines are great they also have radius ones & mini sets.. i love them
throw the 3m in the trash... tons of people in florida are having issue with corrosion issue between the 3m filler and bare metal break threws.. even thow 3m says you can apply over bare metal 🤔 we refuse to use the 3m...and now only use the rage ultra... also good pratice to spot prime any break threws of bare metal with epoxy before you put on another coat of filler!
good job nice video all i have been using is that pricey rage ultra for the past 5 years or better once you use it yer hooked i haven't even bought any polyester glazing putty since if you get pin holes or flaws just use the rage i only use the xtra on big spreads small stuff it's not needed as you know happy mudding !!
Love this channel, but something I've yet to find a solid answer for is, how do you prepare an Epoxy primed surface, after you've let it dry? When not being used as a sealer coat to spray right over wet. This would be for a race car application on the chassis and roll cage surfaces where you have lots of bare steel, but are wary about adding too much paint for weight purposes. First step obviously to prepare the steel and then shoot down your epoxy. That I get. But after the epoxy has dried, we're talking in weeks and months once work on the car continues, how do you sand or scratch it up, to key it enough to get paint to stick to it, considering epoxy can't be sanded. I know normally you'd use a poly primer or similar over the epoxy, but again that would be unneccassry for weight purposes, and the fact that there is no bodyworking to be done makes that primer layer somewhat pointless. But my question stands. How would you prepare the dried and cured epoxy to put paint onto it? Just scratch it with red scotch brite? Clean it with wax and grease and just paint it?
We covered this exact topic on previous videos. These days, most epoxy primers are sandable. You can use a red scotch pad. You can wet sand It with 600 grit etc. our last few videos is a step-by-step process to go from bear Metal all the way to get you to paint and I guarantee this is in there.
Hey dude, the trick ive learnt with carbon dust(dry guide coat) over the years is hold the pad and container together, invert, twist 1/4 turn and back, then flip back over and apply to the panel with the pad. Doing it this way is faster and more consistently spreads the guide coat in an even color.
@@Willsy161z yes but we don’t do that because we use the guide coat for when we sand clear coat. The filler particles end up back in the applicator and scratch the clear. Especially when you are in a finer grit than 1000 grit. So when we get to clear we use a soft micro fiber to spread it. 👍🏻
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS oh that's cool! I didn't think of that, I've never used carbon for wet sanding clear, I usually just jump grits by at least 500grit so the difference in scratches is obvious. Your way sounds faster, I'm going to give it a try!
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS I like the way you mix the 2 fillers you have also. I've been doing this for years, back when rage gold was cheap(can't believe platinum plus is now cheaper) I'd Mix a little evercoat easy sand into it to make it easier to spread and easier to sand, works a treat!
Thanks Travis for another exceptionally high quality video. You bring body work to a science. I have watched most all of your videos but I have one question that I could not find the answer to and this seems like a good video to ask it. If you where working on an 81 Corvette, Would you go with an epoxy primer over the gelcoat? or go to a VP2050 before using filler? I am working on my 67 El Camino and 81 Corvette (brother in laws). Thank you for the awsome lessons. We have learned so much. Fred
@@fredb1165 thank you so much honestly either way is a good option. If you don’t need any build, then a traditional epoxy is perfectly fine, but if you would like a little bit more of a barrier then the 2050 is more than sufficient. We will have a video dropping this week. That definitely will touch on this subject about choosing primers.
Travis, I love your videos and have learned so much from them. One question, I know you always recommend wearing gloves so fingerprints and contaminates don’t get on the bodywork. My issue is my hands sweat so much when I wear them that sweat literally pours out of the cuff of the glove all over the car! I know you’re in SoCal, how do you keep that from happening 😂
Nice video. My question is i have short stand fiberglass on some of my welds and have small pitting on spots on my door above the body filler and want to put acid wash on it, will it tear up my body filler ?
Really enjoy your videos...here is an off-topic question...what kind of clear are you using these days...would love to use the premium Ppg stuff but at $700+ a gallon don't know If I can swing that unless I absolutely need to
If I am a flowcoating the whole roof using extra an Ultra should I try to flow coat the whole thing or just do half of the roof sand it and then do the other half? Or do it all at once because it does not set up for a half hour. This is the final skim.
Seems we can't get the Rage Ultra Extra in Australia. Be nice to have such a long window to apply. I'll stick to the Ultra for now unless I can find another brand that gives longer spread time
Question bro, When you went DTM with 80 did you refine it with a different grit or just kept at 80 and did the epoxy primer? I'm getting a lot of people saying to refine to 180 or 320 and some saying just shoot the epoxy over 80 grit marks. Thanks!
After you sand with 80 do you sand with 180 and do you finish the other side of the hood the same can you Apply this method to doors trunks hoods hoods inside and out or just outside
We have been adding 2 stroke to our oil ever since the VP44 pumps started having issues.... now we know adding more flow pulls the heat away by warming up the fuel in the tank. We did notice a Definite temp drop just by adding 2 stroke b4 switching to a FASS. Why we still run both. Wish the EPA though out reality. Our government rigs don't have emissions & yet rigs with all the emissions are going into limp mode trying to work supporting our fire crews. There is going to be loss of equipment & lives because of these regulations. Even science can't explain how the temps rose first followed by C02... cant blame global warming when it's backwards! Too many people are overlooking Facts. Thanks D
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS I did a 63 corvette 327, 40 over, 11.5:1 Howards Big MAMA thumper roller cam ,Blueprint aluminum heads, and a HOLLEY intake and and sniper setup.
He didn't explain in this video but a trim strip goes there and if he didn't drill out the holes they could get filled in and made harder to find after a second coat. Edit - he makes a small mention of drilling at about the 1:09:30 mark.
@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS thank you also after my body filler stage(have a couple dents) what do you recommend to shoot over the epoxy primer and body filler before paint?(not a show car so not skim coating everything just dents)
@@blakemancumberworth9167 if you go to the channels main page, you will see we have a full breakdown from start to finish on the Willys that talks about the entire process that we do. Vp2050 is my go to
Travis, as usual you provide an excellent tutorial on every stage of the process. You should have 1 million upvotes for every one of your videos. I thank you for all the help you have provided me.
Thanks,
Paul
Thank you so much
Best teacher I have found on UA-cam for body work.
Wow, thank you!
Just splined my 68 DeVille - the melomotive kit works great on those long slab sides and flat hood/deck lid - amazing the lows they pickup on the subtle curves - easy to learn - filler work in 1 week singlehanded
Very nice!
Now that is an incredible amount of most valuable information ! I am saving this video for future reference. Very , very much appreciated.
Glad it was helpful!
Даже не досмотрев видео до конца, хочу поблагодарить за то что вы выпускаетк такие ролики. Мне очень помогло при ремонте своего авто. Смотрю с субтитрами. Не всегда перевод корректен, но смысл понятен. Спасибо и удачи вам!
Thank you very much!!
It doesn’t get better than a great video full of excellent information. Love that mix-temp chart. Was EverCoat watching you! Wow, 20 minutes at 50/50 at high temps. Great information is never boring. Thanks Travis so much stay current on our builds as I just took delivery on 4 gallons of sprayable epoxy black. I too use the contrast to find panel defects. Thank you kindly!
Thank you!!
Don`t know how i missed this one. Keep them coming. I appriciate all you and your team does!!! Merry Christmas and have a Happy New Year...
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you as well!
Thanks Sylvester. Very nice video.
I actually watched some of your videos last night and did a refresher this morning.
I’m presently restoring a 55 Ford F100. As usual it was a rust bucket. I had to replace pretty much everything on the bottom of the cab and replaced bottoms of doors.
I’ve completed all of the metal work and took the doors off for now.
The gaps and alignment was very close.
While I have the doors off I decided to kitty hair the door seams and do an initial skim coat. Once I get this done I will then attach the doors, skim coat the rest of the body and add to the doors if needed.
I was a little apprehensive about adding that much filler to a large area.
Thru your guidance I was able to get a good cover and get my first 80 grit sanding done today.
Tomorrow I plan on adding filler to the low spots and continue the process.
Thanks again for the great videos.
Sounds like a great plan. You're doing a great job!
I remember as a kid not being accurate with the filler/hardener and when you put filler over filler if you had breakthrough the different hardness of the filler sanded differently. Its obvious to me now but then I was young and dumb.
Great tutorial. You guys do awesome work.
Thank you
Thanks!
Thank you very much we really appreciate it!!
Very good training with nice detailed instructions. Thank you! Tom
Glad it was helpful!
Picked up a couple pointers can’t wait to give them a try. I watch every single one of your videos and have adapted my bodywork technique because of the lessons you’re teaching on this channel. I’m a one man shop at the moment I always had a body tech and I love being a painter but I’m starting to fall in love with bodywork. The feeling of accomplishment when you get it right is more gratifying than laying down a glass finish in my opinion.
I couldn’t agree more. Painters rely on good bodywork. Without it they might get it looking glassy but it’ll still be wavy. Thanks for watching!
Thank you for your outstanding training video you are an amazing teacher of body work please keep them coming 👍
@@arnoldtrombley4235 thank you. We will be back soon!!!
Thank you sir. Also I like very much the way the spline removes your ridge lines from the spreaders. Being a beginner for sure, I seem to have a problem with us over sanding.
Awesome video. I've been doing body work for a number of years. I'm self taught for the most part but I learned some things in this video. Appreciate ya. Make some more if ya would please. And come to PA, id take your class.
Maybe one day
Great stuff as usual Travis!
Much appreciated!
Very informative , as usual ,
Thank you.
So nice of you
I’m a 25yr collision repair guy. It’s quick to see this guy knows what he’s doing. Doing filler is overly complicated by a lot of people.
Great video as always, thank you
Thanks for watching!
Brian, I absolutely love your videos and I've learned so much from you!
I taught myself painting a few years back by painting my car (many times) and I was so bad at NOT observing cleaning that I thought it was normal to cut-buff after painting. I didn't realize that you could get a beautiful clear coat right after you shot it. However, I never had as bad a problem with fish eyes as you did in this video.
In fact, I used to tell people it didn't matter how clean it is -I can paint successfully over dirt. I discovered that the ONLY thing you MUST observe is to make sure NO oil is present.
Of course, I've seen the light since then :-)
Long story short: I think your blower is introducing oil into the air. That's my guess.
Who’s Brian ? And what fish eyes?
Nice I can never lay my filler that nice so good job!
The more you practice that the easier the rest is. 👌🏻
surprise surprise another very informative video lol thank you...
the melomotive guys are brilliant Pete & Lincoln do day classes around Australia They always spend time with us even a a quick call they are happy to help i realize it dosent help any one in the States but its their passion not just a job & the products are proof from the splines to their Epoxy & polyprimers...
the splines are great they also have radius ones & mini sets..
i love them
Glad you enjoyed it ! I will have to look into these radius ones. I haven’t seen those ones yet thank you.
Very good. That spline works like a would be screet. For concrete. Interesting. From the novice bodyman, off grid in AZ.
I have a lot of learning, great video 👌
Great to hear!
Great presentation, excellent information. Much appreciated 👍
Glad it was helpful!
Sand a ship with 10 people hahaha. Thank you for the videos!!
Our pleasure!
I liked watching my friend very good
Thanks for the visit
throw the 3m in the trash... tons of people in florida are having issue with corrosion issue between the 3m filler and bare metal break threws.. even thow 3m says you can apply over bare metal 🤔 we refuse to use the 3m...and now only use the rage ultra... also good pratice to spot prime any break threws of bare metal with epoxy before you put on another coat of filler!
Excellent video......
good job nice video all i have been using is that pricey rage ultra for the past 5 years or better once you use it yer hooked i haven't even bought any polyester glazing putty since if you get pin holes or flaws just use the rage i only use the xtra on big spreads small stuff it's not needed as you know happy mudding !!
Agreed!!
Mandatory video right here 👌 , fundamental work is key , 💯🙏 thnx
Glad you think so!
Love this channel, but something I've yet to find a solid answer for is, how do you prepare an Epoxy primed surface, after you've let it dry? When not being used as a sealer coat to spray right over wet.
This would be for a race car application on the chassis and roll cage surfaces where you have lots of bare steel, but are wary about adding too much paint for weight purposes. First step obviously to prepare the steel and then shoot down your epoxy. That I get. But after the epoxy has dried, we're talking in weeks and months once work on the car continues, how do you sand or scratch it up, to key it enough to get paint to stick to it, considering epoxy can't be sanded.
I know normally you'd use a poly primer or similar over the epoxy, but again that would be unneccassry for weight purposes, and the fact that there is no bodyworking to be done makes that primer layer somewhat pointless. But my question stands. How would you prepare the dried and cured epoxy to put paint onto it? Just scratch it with red scotch brite? Clean it with wax and grease and just paint it?
We covered this exact topic on previous videos. These days, most epoxy primers are sandable. You can use a red scotch pad. You can wet sand It with 600 grit etc. our last few videos is a step-by-step process to go from bear Metal all the way to get you to paint and I guarantee this is in there.
Hey dude, the trick ive learnt with carbon dust(dry guide coat) over the years is hold the pad and container together, invert, twist 1/4 turn and back, then flip back over and apply to the panel with the pad.
Doing it this way is faster and more consistently spreads the guide coat in an even color.
@@Willsy161z yes but we don’t do that because we use the guide coat for when we sand clear coat. The filler particles end up back in the applicator and scratch the clear. Especially when you are in a finer grit than 1000 grit. So when we get to clear we use a soft micro fiber to spread it. 👍🏻
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS oh that's cool! I didn't think of that, I've never used carbon for wet sanding clear, I usually just jump grits by at least 500grit so the difference in scratches is obvious. Your way sounds faster, I'm going to give it a try!
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS I like the way you mix the 2 fillers you have also. I've been doing this for years, back when rage gold was cheap(can't believe platinum plus is now cheaper) I'd Mix a little evercoat easy sand into it to make it easier to spread and easier to sand, works a treat!
What a fantastic video
Glad you enjoyed it
Awesome content
I've been doing everything you've been doing for 40 years on prepping but I always use acid etch primer down first on my bare metal
That is the way I was taught too , but I now use epoxy .
Can you use acid etch primer on the bair welded panel first then lay epoxy down after. before you start with your filler ?
@@TheMills21 no
I appreciate the lessons.
👊🏻👌🏻
Thanks Travis for another exceptionally high quality video. You bring body work to a science. I have watched most all of your videos but I have one question that I could not find the answer to and this seems like a good video to ask it. If you where working on an 81 Corvette, Would you go with an epoxy primer over the gelcoat? or go to a VP2050 before using filler? I am working on my 67 El Camino and 81 Corvette (brother in laws). Thank you for the awsome lessons. We have learned so much. Fred
@@fredb1165 thank you so much honestly either way is a good option. If you don’t need any build, then a traditional epoxy is perfectly fine, but if you would like a little bit more of a barrier then the 2050 is more than sufficient. We will have a video dropping this week. That definitely will touch on this subject about choosing primers.
Travis - super content. Thank you. Trecked over to Temecula to grab some supplies - they seam to know you there... Thanks for all the help.
Awesome glad to hear it was helpful!
Travis, I love your videos and have learned so much from them. One question, I know you always recommend wearing gloves so fingerprints and contaminates don’t get on the bodywork. My issue is my hands sweat so much when I wear them that sweat literally pours out of the cuff of the glove all over the car! I know you’re in SoCal, how do you keep that from happening 😂
Honestly. I wear them when I can. But when it’s 115 degrees in the shop the gloves come off. Thankfully my hands are extremely dried out
Outstanding,
Thank you
Awsome info 👌 appreciate it 👍
No problem 👍
Nice video. My question is i have short stand fiberglass on some of my welds and have small pitting on spots on my door above the body filler and want to put acid wash on it, will it tear up my body filler ?
I don’t use stranded filler. I would use rust mort then epoxy then filler
Really enjoy your videos...here is an off-topic question...what kind of clear are you using these days...would love to use the premium Ppg stuff but at $700+ a gallon don't know If I can swing that unless I absolutely need to
Vc5700 it’s probly the most expensive unfortunately
If I am a flowcoating the whole roof using extra an Ultra should I try to flow coat the whole thing or just do half of the roof sand it and then do the other half? Or do it all at once because it does not set up for a half hour. This is the final skim.
Seems we can't get the Rage Ultra Extra in Australia. Be nice to have such a long window to apply. I'll stick to the Ultra for now unless I can find another brand that gives longer spread time
I’ve heard of hardeners that give you more time. We haven’t tested them yet
@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS cheers Trav, will look into it some more. Thanks for the tips and videos 👍
Nice 👍
Thanks ✌
Question bro, When you went DTM with 80 did you refine it with a different grit or just kept at 80 and did the epoxy primer? I'm getting a lot of people saying to refine to 180 or 320 and some saying just shoot the epoxy over 80 grit marks. Thanks!
I epoxy over 80 grit on all bare metal projects. Zero issues
After you sand with 80 do you sand with 180 and do you finish the other side of the hood the same can you Apply this method to doors trunks hoods hoods inside and out or just outside
I use 150 I’ve never used 180 but yes you can.
We have been adding 2 stroke to our oil ever since the VP44 pumps started having issues.... now we know adding more flow pulls the heat away by warming up the fuel in the tank. We did notice a Definite temp drop just by adding 2 stroke b4 switching to a FASS. Why we still run both. Wish the EPA though out reality. Our government rigs don't have emissions & yet rigs with all the emissions are going into limp mode trying to work supporting our fire crews. There is going to be loss of equipment & lives because of these regulations. Even science can't explain how the temps rose first followed by C02... cant blame global warming when it's backwards! Too many people are overlooking Facts. Thanks D
I think you are commenting on the wrong video 🤣
What are you doing to the 64 behind you, is it an SS. That's what I am working on. Thanks
It’s not an SS but it has an LS swap custom firewall and floors etc with Detroit speed suspension.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS I did a 63 corvette 327, 40 over, 11.5:1 Howards Big MAMA thumper roller cam ,Blueprint aluminum heads, and a HOLLEY intake and and sniper setup.
Sometimes i wrap tape around my file for the places i dont want to remove filler and i knock down hidh places
compared to the rage gold how is the rage ultra. i’ve heard it’s thinner so it doesn’t fill as well
It’s still thick! But you don’t need it to be if the metal is good
Not sure if i miss the part you explained why you drilled hood before applying second coat of filler??
He didn't explain in this video but a trim strip goes there and if he didn't drill out the holes they could get filled in and made harder to find after a second coat. Edit - he makes a small mention of drilling at about the 1:09:30 mark.
So you don’t lose the hole
Cant believe how much time you have to work it on the panel . When i do it the shit goes hard before i can find my spreader 🤔
That’s the advantage of rage ultra and ultra extra mixed 50/50
How do i get paint runs out of epoxy primer. I sprayed a truck and have about 4 runs and need to atleast level it out
Just let it fully dry and sand them out.
@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS thank you also after my body filler stage(have a couple dents) what do you recommend to shoot over the epoxy primer and body filler before paint?(not a show car so not skim coating everything just dents)
@@blakemancumberworth9167 if you go to the channels main page, you will see we have a full breakdown from start to finish on the Willys that talks about the entire process that we do. Vp2050 is my go to
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS thank you for the reply I appreciate it alot.
When I mix my filler I get about 5
Minutes at most to spread it and it definitely looks thicker after mixing than yours why is that you think?
We talk about it in the video.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS I didn’t see where you explained that
I guess it pays to weigh out the filler and hardener …. Im surprised that filler did not start to harden up way sooner
That’s because of the 50/50 mix of rage ultra and ultra extra
UTI and the local college finna lose students thanks for schooling us
🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉
👍🏻👍🏻🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
My budget does not like your videos!!! LOL just ordered a set of splines
Hahahahahahahahahahaha sorry you’ll love them
Tons of body filler 🫣 Can’t watch this
⬆️ This Guy ⬆️