I work in the industry, I'm a tile/stone/wood installer, furniture maker, and general everything guy if needed. I only use Colorfast color matched products on my work. Colored to match any major brand of grout I choose. I only use 3 types, silicone for sinks only, normally white or clear, but I can still color match if desired. I won't use silicone anywhere else without something signed indicating I am not responsible for the finished outcome. 100% silicone is horrible around grout. It will basically wipe into the texture of the grout and not come out. By the time the joint is clean, the caulked line gets all messed up and your back where you started, just worse off because now your up shit creek. I only use colorfast siliconized acrylic caulk around tile. I use sanded or non sanded, to match the type of grout. It has a beautiful color that matches any grout and the sand helps fill larger gaps and keed the same look as a sanded grout. Now for installation practices. 1st clean old caulk and debris. 2nd apply caulk in manageable runs (normally 1 straight line about 8ft max) 3rd wipe with finger @ a sharp angle to try and push it in more. 4th wipe with finger on a hard angle to wipe out excess. 5th wipe with sponge until only the caulk joint is left with caulk. 6th take a putty knife, wrap a damp t-shirt type rag around it, leaving a corner neatly wrapped. 7th wipe the joint square with the putty knife. 8th wipe clean with a sponge. Move to next section. I recommend working with 2 sponges. One for your fingers, one for the caulk joint. You can lay you gun tip on the finger sponge if it oozes. Also if you get good at applying the caulk, you won't need to push it in. You want to inject the caulk into the joint, rolling a slight visible bead inside the joint in front of the gun tip as you use the contour of the tip to wipe the joint behind it. This will give you a great caulking job, and reduce your work. Eliminating a bit of initial finger wiping and some sponging.
Okay I am a single woman who is NOT handy whatsoever, and I just noticed water on the bathroom floor by my bathtub, which then made me notice the caulk is barely there anymore. I ventured to UA-cam because I have no idea where to start and came across this video. Super easy to understand, straight to the point, and helpful. I will be starting this project tomorrow. Thank you!!
@charlessupplee2655 But then you don't gain the ability yourself! I prefer to ask someone to show me how to do the job, similar idea but it's more equal.
Great video, if using denatured alcohol and/or vinegar mix them at a ratio of 2 parts vinegar to 1 part alcohol, not only does it help with the caulk residue removal but it kills bacteria, viruses, and molds on the work area.
Oh my GOD! I just spent 4 straight hours scraping silicone out of my shower, WHAT A NIGHTMARE! Now the next NIGHTMARE getting it on straight. Tape is a pain to get straight for the average person. This is a good video, but next time, I'm hiring someone 😅
Yea, it can be done by DIY'ers but it isn't as easy as it looks. I F'd mine up having so much excess and it riding up the wall so I'm assuming I laid too thick of a bead but dayum what a mess lol. I have to redo it, this time Im taking a break, going in calm...and with more education than the first time lol
My thoughts exactly. I'm hiring someone. Getting too darn old to be on my hands and knees scraping off the old caulking then turning around & applying the new.
Except he has no idea what he is talking about. I have been a professional caulker for over 45 years. I can count the number of times I have used clear on 1 hand. It is an inferior product. End of story. The fact that he uses gorilla silicone and is dumb enough to think that “ lifetime guarantee “ on a consumer product means anything is hilarious. It is a marketing gimmick. The longest true guarantee for premium ( industrial , not readily available to the public )sealants is 20 years. And the caulking tools he recommends do not properly tool the sealant all they do is scrape off the excess. The fact that he says to force the sealant into the joint without even mentioning backer rod is proof he has no idea what he is talking about. You don’t necessarily want to “ force sealant into the joint.” It should never be deeper than ig id wide. And only a moron would use open sealant that is more than a few months old. 2 years is plain stupid. UNOPENED sealant has a one year shelf life. Just because it looks good doesn’t mean it is. These are just some of the reasons that residential sealants last an average of 7 years and commercial sealants last an average of 20 years plus. Ignorant people like this acting like they know what they are talking about. Installing sealants is usually something a homeowner definitely can do. But it is exceedingly difficult because of guys like this.
Except the proper point. When using caulk around tile work. You use a color matched tub and tile caulking. I basically only use colorfast brand. They make caulk to match any major brand of grout. The thing is, you want a high quality caulking that blends in seamlessly and won't wind up looking like trash in 5 years. This can't be found in the paint department @ home depot. You want a caulking that is sanded if you grout is sanded and if your wondering, you grout is probably sanded unless it's 1/16th of an inch. I only use colorfast products on my installations. The only place I use or see silicone is kitchen sinks and glass.
I have to this. Again. After a year. Because I didn’t take the excellent advice and instructions given here. Thank you for taking the time to post this helpful video.
So I tried caulking a shower for the first time with the help of some YT videos. I can now safely say that I do not enjoy caulking, and these guys make it look easier than it is. It's definitely not something that is going to come out looking as perfect as theirs the first time. However, I will say that by my 2nd and 3rd crevice, it started looking better and better and I'd say I actually did a pretty decent job for my first time 😋 thank you !
So very true, it is almost like a art. I got the whole kitchen to do in grey for top of granite backsplash that meets tile I did under cabinets, then clear for granite to granite joints, faucet and the underside mounting sink, then up stairs bathroom is horrendous, people who was renting tmy condo broke tile and filled it all with caulk, must be 4 tubes in just the tub meets tile line, The joy is overwhelming, lol 😂 wanna trade.
I am a widow. My sweet husband was my great handyman. I had so many questions on how to fix the caulk in my shower. Thank you for your concise instructions. They answered all my questions. I know I can take care of this. Thank you!
The no drip caulk guns are so nice , and easy for beginners . Always use a small cut for the tip, a micro tip is even best. Mark your tip so you can turn the tube and keep it in the right direction. Then use sand paper and take. Iths idea down so the tip will lay properly and it will go on so much better. Also most us caulks don’t have a foil seal. It’s ok.
Am I grateful I watched your entire video! I had white caulk on a stainless steal kitchen sink with a brown and black granite counter top. I followed all of your recommendations and after careful work got moldy and icky old caulk out and dried the wet part carefully with a paint scraper and paper towels to throughly dry under the counter top before using the 30 minute Gorilla Waterproof caulk and seal. The cleaning of the old caulk took at least 3 hours to do right. I am so glad I did not take any short cuts! Thank you. Thank you for this very informative video.
Clear or white silicone is perfect around a sink. (My mom has a white sink, so white silicone) Though I never recommend silicone on tile work. For showers and such, I only endorse colorfast brand products. They make color matched caulking made to match every major brand of caulking. You can find it where pros shop for material that's beyond the scope of home depot. Dal tile might be a good place to look (the material area, not showroom)
thank you for this - this was very helpful as someone who's doing this for the first time. No frills just helpful info in a sea of "and now from my sponsor, squre space!". I have used a type of finishing screw in the end of a couple caulk tubes i'm using and they have kept well for over a month now. Having to keep a different hybrid, paintable, or 100% silicone around for my projects has created an accumulation of so many tubes... again, thank you!
I never comment. This helped me more than any of the other videos I watched. The tape tip -- was great. The other videos were good -- but this one pulled it all together for me. Thank you.
So appreciative for the details. I've never done this but have to learn task by task. It helps you didn't make assumptions that your audience already had a base knowledge of this stuff (I don't). I'll check out your other videos...I have to replace my toilet and that is more intimidating than caulk, but it has to be done. Thanks!
So for a toilet. I recommend a siliconized acrylic caulk as a minimum. But I still prefer colorfast branded products, they have never let me down on my installations. Colorfast makes caulk to match every major brand of grout. It is a superior product that stands the test of time. I only use 100% silicone around sinks. 100% silicone will never fully wipe out of a grout joint.
Great video, Thanks for your instruction. I’m heading to Home Depot now and buy my supplies and re-caulk my shower tile (for a second time because I didn’t watch your video the first time.)
Excellent video with lots of good tips. If you don’t have a heat gun, you also might consider using a hair dryer. I have an acrylic bathtub and was hesitant to use a heat gun so I tried my hair dryer and it worked. My caulk was old and it was a slow job, but I didn’t melt the tub. Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge.
Which caulk did you use? I need to buy one and I see that gorilla has bad reviews. Should I believe those reviews or gorilla caulk is good for shower wall tiles?
Excellent. Thank you. I agreed with all your tips, including the tips tip. I have used caulk perfectly preserved with them that's over 3 years old. A very good caulk gun is worth it. I recently purchased a $20 gun at the orange box store that has on/off dripliss, and high/low force selectors. It was worth it. I'll give one of my cheaper caulk guns to a nice neighbor who hasn't got many tools yet.
This is THE most concise and well produced informative videos I’ve ever come across. I can’t thank you enough for the constant flow of relevant information and supplementary visuals. This answered all of my questions and reaffirmed what I knew. You’re a fantastic educator! 🙌
Straight to the point. Very informative. We didn’t have to wait 20 minutes of talking that’s irrelevant to the topic of the video. Now that’s what I am talking about. Keep that sh#+ up bro… 🤓👍
#1 tip: clean surfaces first, wipe with alcohol. #1 tip: Use the minimum amount of caulk to seal crack. More will not make it better, it'll just be sticking out and potentially providing a lip for moisture to rest in. (yes I know there are two #1s) #1 tip: wet your finger and press caulk smoothly into gap making it firmly adhere to surfaces and look good while removing excess caulk - use a rag or your pants wipe excess caulk off your finger. (yes I know there are three #1s)
@@CompletelyNormalPhenomenon - you can add additional layers for toughness but if it isn't pushed in sealing the gap the amount means nothing except often often working contrary to provide a ledge catching moisture and funneling it into the crack. I'm sure you know that and I get what you are saying and admit I exaggerate about "minimum amount" because I am addressing those who think if they just put a big bead on they don't have to push the caulk in to seal it.
This video is a fantastic resource for anyone looking to rejuvenate their bathroom! The step-by-step walkthrough for removing old caulk and applying new caulk is very clear and easy to follow. I appreciate how you detailed the tools and materials needed upfront, making it simple to gather everything before starting the project. Thanks for sharing such a comprehensive guide-this is definitely a video I'll be recommending to friends and family looking to freshen up their bathrooms. Keep up the great work!
Thank you so much for sharing your wonderful knowledge. I’m so glad I found your site. I have to re-caulk my shower. I’m going to do a much better job than the last time thanks to you.
I am a professional tile installer - WD 40 works miracles on caulking - better than any other product that I have used and I have used many of them - for WD 40 residue cleanup I use MEK or Acetone to get the wd 40 residue off the tile, glass, etc - be sure to test out an area first before going full bore
I recently tried the painters tape trick and it’s important to note REMOVE THE TAPE BEFORE ANYTHING DRIES. Google gave me mixed answers here, I waited about 30 minutes, and completely ruined my job as the surface was pulled at. Luckily my tub needs refinishing so it was only intended to be a temporary job anyway.
Thank you for this video with gobs of good info. I have one question. My kitchen sink was caulked with a substance that dried very very hard. I think I will have to use an oscillating tool. Any suggestions for removing whatever this hardened substance?
I'd start by trying to scrape it off with a putty knife or a utility knife and then go from there. If it's super hard, my concern is that they used some sort of epoxy which would be a pain. And yeah I'd probably try an oscillating tool but go slow to minimize any potential damage the countertop.
Any advice on sealing travertine with a product like MS 511 Impregnator prior to recaulking? I'm recaulking under the glass shower wall that's at least 15 years old (debonded on the travertine side, not the glass side). The alcohol tip was great! All kinds of micro pieces of silicone coming out from that gap!
There's a shelf life with silicone caulk. After a while it either goes rock hard which isn't a problem bc you'd just throw it away but neutral curing silicone will remain soft but will never cure and that's a huge pita.
Agreed. After all the prep work required for a rarely performed task like this, it is well worth it to just spend the couple dollars for a fresh tube. Maybe I'd risk using an old tube for caulking a baseboard. But for a critical performance job like a shower, no way.
Here is a tip for the DIY group. Never use 100% silicone on tile. Only use siliconized acrylic. For anyone who cares about their tile. Use colorfast branded caulk that is color matched to your grout color. Get sanded if your grout is sanded or non sanded if it isnt.
Thank you UA-cam Dad, from where do I come from we dont use caulk. Now that im married and living in the USA, this is a thing. Thank you for your video, i saw some videos where alcohol was used but you explained which step to use. kudos!
So I laid down some new “mold-free” caulk in 2 bathrooms 1-2 years ago, and the caulk had a bunch of mildew/mold in it pretty quickly thereafter (assuming it came from beneath). I am assuming this is because I didn’t use an extra cleaning step after scraping and wiping it down. I will try again with the alcohol spray to have a cleaner surface to start. Thanks!
Thank you, especially for the alcohol suggestion. I am redoing the caulk in the shower and there was caulk/rubber? under the frame part. Can I use caulk to replace that? Also, caulk or silicone?
Great instructional video. Even though I've caulked my shower and tub many times in the past, your tips made the job much easier when I just did it. Mahalo!
You have caulked your tub and shower MANY times in the past ? When installed correctly silicone will last about 30:years. If you have caulked them many times in the past you are doing it wrong.
what is a good way to fix drywall that is peeling and damaged at the bottom close to the shower surround. I know I'll need to caulk a strip once done fixing. However, I'd like to get your opinion on the best way to fix this issue.
Its very important to take care of caulk issues as soon as possible.. 😂😂 Also like the fact there wasnt any moronic music or a 2 minute intro. Straight in to the caulk jokes.
It's hard to not giggle at some of the sentences throughout 🤣... Sorry... Immature me sometimes. But amazing video!! I'll be much more confident tackling this, this weekend! Thank you!!
Hi there. When I removed our caulk, it was black goo all over the caulk. Like mildew or something. I decided to recaulk because I saw some of this black substance seeping from some of the seems or corners of the shower (kind of breaking through the caulk). Does that mean that I have a whole wall full of mold or mildew? Is it serious or just the kind of junk that lies under shower caulk? I have decaulked and am thinking of spraying strong anti mold/mildew spray and maybe some alcohol to try and kill the rest of it. Is that a good plan? I worst fear is that this is not normal and that I have a wall of mold monster behind there. Thank you.
Thank you for rhe informative video. I love the idea off taping off, it will be a pain in the .... However, the alternative of cleaning up the excess caulking makes me stress out. 🤔 & make a bigger mess on the shower walls & me .😂
WD stands for water displacement. Most of the lubrication that occurs is from water coming to the surface that can be wiped away. The alkanes and light mineral oil are relatively volatile and not lasting. When applying grease or oil to something it is best practice to spray WD-40 which will extract moisture from the pores of even smooth metal then wipe it down and then apply the oil which can now seep into those tiny pores and provide much better, longer lasting lubrication. If using it prior to caulking or painting, after wiping away the moisture and WD-40, apply alcohol and wipe that down to remove any of the residue from the WD. Now the paint and caulk can adhere much better and not trap moisture within the pores underneath. WD (formula) 40 was developed for NASA by the Rocket Chemical Company space program to wipe down parts of rockets, especially at the joints, because once they reached high altitude the freezing temperature would turn water into ice and expand, potentially splitting open a gap such as those between stages and fuel systems. That is what happened to space shuttle Columbia. Someone didn't use the WD-40 on the o-rings which sealed the booster rocket, they stiffened, then expanded and kablooey! (yeah, there's more to it but that is the sort of thing it was made to prevent)
Could you please add information here on how to clean up the tools and the hands after caulking? How do you get the extra caulk off of the smoothing tool? And if you wear latex gloves, how to clean the gloves.
If the caulk is still wet, you can easily wipe off the excess with a damp cloth or paper towel. For silicone caulk, using a bit of rubbing alcohol on the cloth can help remove any residue. If the caulk has dried, you might need to gently scrape it off with a putty knife or use a caulk remover solution. For latex gloves I would just throw them away.
Two questions: 1- is been 7 months since the video, how is the caulk holding up? (trying to decide if I should buy gorilla or not). 2- wouldn't the tape leave a ridge or lip where the moisture could start getting in?
have a small bottle of soapy water handy to lightly spray over your freshly caulked area. when you run your finger over the area it make it much smoother ands cleaner finish.
Great informative video. I feel less nervous as I try to tackle removing and applying calk around my tube. Hopefully, applying the painter’s tape as a guide will help.
I have a silly question. So i have to do the bottom and the sides of my shower and probably the very top. I would work my way top to bottom or do the sides so (up and down) and then do the very top and then do the very bottom right? Or does it not matter?
Thanks for this! Quick question - we had some bathroom repair and they recaulked the tub/shower. Not sure what they used but it started to yellow pretty fast. Anyway to whiten it up or will it have to be all redone?
My contractor grouted the corner joints. I've had one corner cleaned and re-grouted twice. It's cracking again, so clearly there is expansion/contraction happening. Any harm cleaning the joint with alcohol and lay a bead of silicone directly over the grout?
Liquid Cigarette lighter fluid works, as a matter of fact you can thin out silicone with lighter fluid. We used to thin out silicone and dip our slot car tires in it back in the early 70’s for more traction.
We just had colored siliconized acrylic caulk applied between the wall and floor in our shower, but there are small cracks appearing in it. Any recommendations?
Cut it out and replace it with Super Grout Additive epoxy or 100% silicone. Siliconized Acrylic Caulk is not rated for the transition joint at the base of the shower, says so right on the tube (usually)..not for use on continuously wet surfaces. The cracks are because it is shrinking since it is water based. The installer probably did it too wet (like with a sponge for example) which weakens it. Color Rite Inc in OK matches every grout manufacturers colors and even has a satin finish and sanded finish. I've been re-grouting/re-caulking showers for 20+ years.
NO soapy water because caulk will not adhere where the water-based soapy water comes into contact with the wall/floor. Will eventually peel away at the edges of the caulk.
This is a no BS video. There is no idle chat or crappy music, just good, non-stop info.
Appreciate that!
Seconded @@TopHomeowner
I work in the industry, I'm a tile/stone/wood installer, furniture maker, and general everything guy if needed.
I only use Colorfast color matched products on my work. Colored to match any major brand of grout I choose. I only use 3 types, silicone for sinks only, normally white or clear, but I can still color match if desired.
I won't use silicone anywhere else without something signed indicating I am not responsible for the finished outcome. 100% silicone is horrible around grout. It will basically wipe into the texture of the grout and not come out. By the time the joint is clean, the caulked line gets all messed up and your back where you started, just worse off because now your up shit creek.
I only use colorfast siliconized acrylic caulk around tile. I use sanded or non sanded, to match the type of grout. It has a beautiful color that matches any grout and the sand helps fill larger gaps and keed the same look as a sanded grout.
Now for installation practices. 1st clean old caulk and debris. 2nd apply caulk in manageable runs (normally 1 straight line about 8ft max) 3rd wipe with finger @ a sharp angle to try and push it in more. 4th wipe with finger on a hard angle to wipe out excess. 5th wipe with sponge until only the caulk joint is left with caulk. 6th take a putty knife, wrap a damp t-shirt type rag around it, leaving a corner neatly wrapped. 7th wipe the joint square with the putty knife. 8th wipe clean with a sponge. Move to next section.
I recommend working with 2 sponges. One for your fingers, one for the caulk joint. You can lay you gun tip on the finger sponge if it oozes. Also if you get good at applying the caulk, you won't need to push it in. You want to inject the caulk into the joint, rolling a slight visible bead inside the joint in front of the gun tip as you use the contour of the tip to wipe the joint behind it. This will give you a great caulking job, and reduce your work. Eliminating a bit of initial finger wiping and some sponging.
@@brandonhoffman4712WOW! Great information! Thank you!!
If only everyone did their video like this.
Okay I am a single woman who is NOT handy whatsoever, and I just noticed water on the bathroom floor by my bathtub, which then made me notice the caulk is barely there anymore. I ventured to UA-cam because I have no idea where to start and came across this video. Super easy to understand, straight to the point, and helpful. I will be starting this project tomorrow. Thank you!!
😊😊😊
the one that I have Mikay is a good
wow
Better to offer a gentleman a good meal and let him do it.
@charlessupplee2655 But then you don't gain the ability yourself! I prefer to ask someone to show me how to do the job, similar idea but it's more equal.
Thank you ! For shower I would spray a thin layer of mold remover/inhibitor and let it dry before caulking.
...But then you would clean the surface again before applying caulk...right?
Great video, if using denatured alcohol and/or vinegar mix them at a ratio of 2 parts vinegar to 1 part alcohol, not only does it help with the caulk residue removal but it kills bacteria, viruses, and molds on the work area.
Oh my GOD! I just spent 4 straight hours scraping silicone out of my shower, WHAT A NIGHTMARE! Now the next NIGHTMARE getting it on straight. Tape is a pain to get straight for the average person. This is a good video, but next time, I'm hiring someone 😅
Yea, it can be done by DIY'ers but it isn't as easy as it looks. I F'd mine up having so much excess and it riding up the wall so I'm assuming I laid too thick of a bead but dayum what a mess lol. I have to redo it, this time Im taking a break, going in calm...and with more education than the first time lol
Smart move. I suck at caulking
My thoughts exactly. I'm hiring someone. Getting too darn old to be on my hands and knees scraping off the old caulking then turning around & applying the new.
@@MichaelDarker😂😂
This is a great training video! You go from a to z quickly and efficiently, covering all the points in between 💯
Except he has no idea what he is talking about. I have been a professional caulker for over 45 years. I can count the number of times I have used clear on 1 hand. It is an inferior product. End of story. The fact that he uses gorilla silicone and is dumb enough to think that “ lifetime guarantee “ on a consumer product means anything is hilarious. It is a marketing gimmick. The longest true guarantee for premium ( industrial , not readily available to the public )sealants is 20 years. And the caulking tools he recommends do not properly tool the sealant all they do is scrape off the excess. The fact that he says to force the sealant into the joint without even mentioning backer rod is proof he has no idea what he is talking about. You don’t necessarily want to “ force sealant into the joint.” It should never be deeper than ig id wide. And only a moron would use open sealant that is more than a few months old. 2 years is plain stupid. UNOPENED sealant has a one year shelf life.
Just because it looks good doesn’t mean it is. These are just some of the reasons that residential sealants last an average of 7 years and commercial sealants last an average of 20 years plus. Ignorant people like this acting like they know what they are talking about. Installing sealants is usually something a homeowner definitely can do. But it is exceedingly difficult because of guys like this.
Except the proper point. When using caulk around tile work. You use a color matched tub and tile caulking.
I basically only use colorfast brand. They make caulk to match any major brand of grout.
The thing is, you want a high quality caulking that blends in seamlessly and won't wind up looking like trash in 5 years. This can't be found in the paint department @ home depot. You want a caulking that is sanded if you grout is sanded and if your wondering, you grout is probably sanded unless it's 1/16th of an inch.
I only use colorfast products on my installations. The only place I use or see silicone is kitchen sinks and glass.
I have to this.
Again.
After a year.
Because I didn’t take the excellent advice and instructions given here.
Thank you for taking the time to post this helpful video.
So I tried caulking a shower for the first time with the help of some YT videos. I can now safely say that I do not enjoy caulking, and these guys make it look easier than it is. It's definitely not something that is going to come out looking as perfect as theirs the first time. However, I will say that by my 2nd and 3rd crevice, it started looking better and better and I'd say I actually did a pretty decent job for my first time 😋 thank you !
So very true, it is almost like a art. I got the whole kitchen to do in grey for top of granite backsplash that meets tile I did under cabinets, then clear for granite to granite joints, faucet and the underside mounting sink, then up stairs bathroom is horrendous, people who was renting tmy condo broke tile and filled it all with caulk, must be 4 tubes in just the tub meets tile line,
The joy is overwhelming, lol 😂 wanna trade.
I feel ready to do this now. I'm going to tackle my master bath shower tomorrow!
I am a widow. My sweet husband was my great handyman. I had so many questions on how to fix the caulk in my shower. Thank you for your concise instructions. They answered all my questions. I know I can take care of this. Thank you!
First time homeonwner here, thank you for the solid info.
The no drip caulk guns are so nice , and easy for beginners . Always use a small cut for the tip, a micro tip is even best. Mark your tip so you can turn the tube and keep it in the right direction. Then use sand paper and take. Iths idea down so the tip will lay properly and it will go on so much better.
Also most us caulks don’t have a foil seal. It’s ok.
Am I grateful I watched your entire video! I had white caulk on a stainless steal kitchen sink with a brown and black granite counter top. I followed all of your recommendations and after careful work got moldy and icky old caulk out and dried the wet part carefully with a paint scraper and paper towels to throughly dry under the counter top before using the 30 minute Gorilla Waterproof caulk and seal. The cleaning of the old caulk took at least 3 hours to do right. I am so glad I did not take any short cuts! Thank you. Thank you for this very informative video.
You're welcome! Glad it was helpful!
Clear or white silicone is perfect around a sink. (My mom has a white sink, so white silicone)
Though I never recommend silicone on tile work. For showers and such, I only endorse colorfast brand products. They make color matched caulking made to match every major brand of caulking. You can find it where pros shop for material that's beyond the scope of home depot. Dal tile might be a good place to look (the material area, not showroom)
thank you for this - this was very helpful as someone who's doing this for the first time. No frills just helpful info in a sea of "and now from my sponsor, squre space!".
I have used a type of finishing screw in the end of a couple caulk tubes i'm using and they have kept well for over a month now. Having to keep a different hybrid, paintable, or 100% silicone around for my projects has created an accumulation of so many tubes...
again, thank you!
I never comment. This helped me more than any of the other videos I watched. The tape tip -- was great. The other videos were good -- but this one pulled it all together for me. Thank you.
So appreciative for the details. I've never done this but have to learn task by task. It helps you didn't make assumptions that your audience already had a base knowledge of this stuff (I don't). I'll check out your other videos...I have to replace my toilet and that is more intimidating than caulk, but it has to be done. Thanks!
Gorgeous
So for a toilet. I recommend a siliconized acrylic caulk as a minimum. But I still prefer colorfast branded products, they have never let me down on my installations. Colorfast makes caulk to match every major brand of grout. It is a superior product that stands the test of time.
I only use 100% silicone around sinks. 100% silicone will never fully wipe out of a grout joint.
Great video, Thanks for your instruction. I’m heading to Home Depot now and buy my supplies and re-caulk my shower tile (for a second time because I didn’t watch your video the first time.)
Excellent video with lots of good tips. If you don’t have a heat gun, you also might consider using a hair dryer. I have an acrylic bathtub and was hesitant to use a heat gun so I tried my hair dryer and it worked. My caulk was old and it was a slow job, but I didn’t melt the tub. Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge.
As a woman who was never taught how to do any of this, I really appreciate your videos! Thank you!!
Thanks! About to redo the caulk in the shower surround and haven't done it in about 20 years so needed a refresher 👍
Which caulk did you use? I need to buy one and I see that gorilla has bad reviews. Should I believe those reviews or gorilla caulk is good for shower wall tiles?
Excellent. Thank you. I agreed with all your tips, including the tips tip. I have used caulk perfectly preserved with them that's over 3 years old. A very good caulk gun is worth it. I recently purchased a $20 gun at the orange box store that has on/off dripliss, and high/low force selectors. It was worth it. I'll give one of my cheaper caulk guns to a nice neighbor who hasn't got many tools yet.
This is THE most concise and well produced informative videos I’ve ever come across. I can’t thank you enough for the constant flow of relevant information and supplementary visuals. This answered all of my questions and reaffirmed what I knew. You’re a fantastic educator! 🙌
Thank you for your comment!
Wow. Solid video. Very efficient information delivery.
Straight to the point. Very informative. We didn’t have to wait 20 minutes of talking that’s irrelevant to the topic of the video. Now that’s what I am talking about. Keep that sh#+ up bro… 🤓👍
#1 tip: clean surfaces first, wipe with alcohol. #1 tip: Use the minimum amount of caulk to seal crack. More will not make it better, it'll just be sticking out and potentially providing a lip for moisture to rest in. (yes I know there are two #1s) #1 tip: wet your finger and press caulk smoothly into gap making it firmly adhere to surfaces and look good while removing excess caulk - use a rag or your pants wipe excess caulk off your finger. (yes I know there are three #1s)
larger beads of caulk will stand the test of time better, especially in buildings where walls tend to shift (as buildings built with wood do)
@@CompletelyNormalPhenomenon - you can add additional layers for toughness but if it isn't pushed in sealing the gap the amount means nothing except often often working contrary to provide a ledge catching moisture and funneling it into the crack. I'm sure you know that and I get what you are saying and admit I exaggerate about "minimum amount" because I am addressing those who think if they just put a big bead on they don't have to push the caulk in to seal it.
This video is a fantastic resource for anyone looking to rejuvenate their bathroom! The step-by-step walkthrough for removing old caulk and applying new caulk is very clear and easy to follow. I appreciate how you detailed the tools and materials needed upfront, making it simple to gather everything before starting the project. Thanks for sharing such a comprehensive guide-this is definitely a video I'll be recommending to friends and family looking to freshen up their bathrooms. Keep up the great work!
I have silicone caulks at home - didn't know I could use them for the bathroom!
Thank you so much for sharing your wonderful knowledge. I’m so glad I found your site. I have to re-caulk my shower. I’m going to do a much better job than the last time thanks to you.
Good straight forward information. The Caulk Keeper (12:01) best tip for me. Thanks for a good well delivered video.
Thanks about the caulk keeper. First time caulking my first home and I’m trying to save as much as I can.
Excellent presentation, well spoken and to the point with great tips.
Hi Dear, talk about step by step, I have some ideas but you just turn me into a pro. Thanks for the video very informative I must say. Stay blessed.
I am a professional tile installer - WD 40 works miracles on caulking - better than any other product that I have used and I have used many of them - for WD 40 residue cleanup I use MEK or Acetone to get the wd 40 residue off the tile, glass, etc - be sure to test out an area first before going full bore
I recently tried the painters tape trick and it’s important to note REMOVE THE TAPE BEFORE ANYTHING DRIES. Google gave me mixed answers here, I waited about 30 minutes, and completely ruined my job as the surface was pulled at. Luckily my tub needs refinishing so it was only intended to be a temporary job anyway.
Great point! Yes I always remove the tape as soon as I finish putting the caulk down
Thank you for this video with gobs of good info. I have one question. My kitchen sink was caulked with a substance that dried very very hard. I think I will have to use an oscillating tool. Any suggestions for removing whatever this hardened substance?
I'd start by trying to scrape it off with a putty knife or a utility knife and then go from there. If it's super hard, my concern is that they used some sort of epoxy which would be a pain. And yeah I'd probably try an oscillating tool but go slow to minimize any potential damage the countertop.
Just wrap tape around the caulk tube tip. Seal it good. Done!
Any advice on sealing travertine with a product like MS 511 Impregnator prior to recaulking? I'm recaulking under the glass shower wall that's at least 15 years old (debonded on the travertine side, not the glass side). The alcohol tip was great! All kinds of micro pieces of silicone coming out from that gap!
Really appreciate your video. It went straight to the point in every aspect.
Thank goodness! that worked!
I love my tub!
You are very knowledgeable on caulk.
A verified caulk master.
🤣@@glitch177k
There's a shelf life with silicone caulk. After a while it either goes rock hard which isn't a problem bc you'd just throw it away but neutral curing silicone will remain soft but will never cure and that's a huge pita.
Agreed. After all the prep work required for a rarely performed task like this, it is well worth it to just spend the couple dollars for a fresh tube. Maybe I'd risk using an old tube for caulking a baseboard. But for a critical performance job like a shower, no way.
Fantastic straight to the point video. Excellent tips for DYI caulking. Thank you.
DYI? Driving yourself intoxicated!?!
Here is a tip for the DIY group. Never use 100% silicone on tile. Only use siliconized acrylic. For anyone who cares about their tile. Use colorfast branded caulk that is color matched to your grout color. Get sanded if your grout is sanded or non sanded if it isnt.
Great video! Really helpful and no fluff. Thank you!
Thank you UA-cam Dad, from where do I come from we dont use caulk. Now that im married and living in the USA, this is a thing. Thank you for your video, i saw some videos where alcohol was used but you explained which step to use.
kudos!
Glad it was helpful!
I got some glossy white tub silicone and it looks amazing on our glossy tub surround completely invisible so far.
Buddy, you are the man. Excellent video! You answered all of my questions and made it very easy for me to caulk my bathroom tub and shower.
So I laid down some new “mold-free” caulk in 2 bathrooms 1-2 years ago, and the caulk had a bunch of mildew/mold in it pretty quickly thereafter (assuming it came from beneath). I am assuming this is because I didn’t use an extra cleaning step after scraping and wiping it down. I will try again with the alcohol spray to have a cleaner surface to start. Thanks!
Great and informative video! Question, how would you fill a gap of about 1/2 an inch on the sides of the tubs??
Everybody loves Re-caulking. Deborah! 📺😂😂😂💯
Great and helpful video. I'm ready to start caulking!
Thank you, especially for the alcohol suggestion. I am redoing the caulk in the shower and there was caulk/rubber? under the frame part. Can I use caulk to replace that? Also, caulk or silicone?
Yes, I would recommend a silicone caulk.
Thanks a lot!!! I’m about to get started on my master bedroom!!!
Great instructional video. Even though I've caulked my shower and tub many times in the past, your tips made the job much easier when I just did it. Mahalo!
You have caulked your tub and shower MANY times in the past ? When installed correctly silicone will last about 30:years. If you have caulked them many times in the past you are doing it wrong.
@@genecarden780 What caulk should I buy for shower tiles?
About to attempt this wish me luck!
Very clear and thorough video.
Great stuff dude. Definitely feel confident going into this job now. Thank you!
For me, this video was Just In Time. Definitely glad it popped up in my UA-cam feed. Thanks!
Are you able to use the gorilla silicone caulk on the tile floors as well?
what is a good way to fix drywall that is peeling and damaged at the bottom close to the shower surround. I know I'll need to caulk a strip once done fixing. However, I'd like to get your opinion on the best way to fix this issue.
Its very important to take care of caulk issues as soon as possible.. 😂😂
Also like the fact there wasnt any moronic music or a 2 minute intro. Straight in to the caulk jokes.
Awesomeness! This looks just like my shower
My late husband would lather me up in the shower and then......😰💋😉
Great video. I’m going to try this myself!
Thank you for creating such an informative video! It was extremely helpful to me.
Best solvent to soften and remove silicone is mineral turpentine.
thank you
It's hard to not giggle at some of the sentences throughout 🤣... Sorry... Immature me sometimes. But amazing video!! I'll be much more confident tackling this, this weekend! Thank you!!
🙋♂️🤣
Your video was so helpful!!!
Hi there. When I removed our caulk, it was black goo all over the caulk. Like mildew or something. I decided to recaulk because I saw some of this black substance seeping from some of the seems or corners of the shower (kind of breaking through the caulk). Does that mean that I have a whole wall full of mold or mildew? Is it serious or just the kind of junk that lies under shower caulk? I have decaulked and am thinking of spraying strong anti mold/mildew spray and maybe some alcohol to try and kill the rest of it. Is that a good plan? I worst fear is that this is not normal and that I have a wall of mold monster behind there. Thank you.
Really great, like the eco friendly alcohol and vinegar options to remove the bathroom caulk. Thank you!
Man thank you so much for the content you share ❤️
Thank you for rhe informative video. I love the idea off taping off, it will be a pain in the .... However, the alternative of cleaning up the excess caulking makes me stress out. 🤔 & make a bigger mess on the shower walls & me .😂
My caulk hasn’t been opened,but it says expired in 2022,now it’s May 2024, can I still use it? Thanks for the great video, I already subscribed.
I would. Did you use it?
i saw somewhere solicone wont dry if it expired but not know aboult caulk
Potty mouth haha. He actually did the entire video with a straight face. My fav "...the caulk keeper...". Well done sir. Def sharing with the boys lol
Wish I saw this 4 hours ago
Thank you so much. I found this absolutely very very helpful. 😊
WD stands for water displacement. Most of the lubrication that occurs is from water coming to the surface that can be wiped away. The alkanes and light mineral oil are relatively volatile and not lasting. When applying grease or oil to something it is best practice to spray WD-40 which will extract moisture from the pores of even smooth metal then wipe it down and then apply the oil which can now seep into those tiny pores and provide much better, longer lasting lubrication.
If using it prior to caulking or painting, after wiping away the moisture and WD-40, apply alcohol and wipe that down to remove any of the residue from the WD. Now the paint and caulk can adhere much better and not trap moisture within the pores underneath.
WD (formula) 40 was developed for NASA by the Rocket Chemical Company space program to wipe down parts of rockets, especially at the joints, because once they reached high altitude the freezing temperature would turn water into ice and expand, potentially splitting open a gap such as those between stages and fuel systems. That is what happened to space shuttle Columbia. Someone didn't use the WD-40 on the o-rings which sealed the booster rocket, they stiffened, then expanded and kablooey! (yeah, there's more to it but that is the sort of thing it was made to prevent)
Thank you for this information
@@keylockwood9487 more of an advert really
@@-opus Any other recommendations other then WD-40? Anything you recommend?
@@keylockwood9487 I use isopropyl alcohol
@@-opus Awesome. Thank you
Extremely helpful, thanks much!
And just like that. You got your self a new subscriber 👍🏼
the amount of times he said caulk lol great video, man
What was he supposed to say...'pastry filling'? 'amorphous goo'?
😮😂 I noticed
Great Video , made me giggle couple of times specially "Caulk keeper"😂 but seriously thanks for thr tips
Could you please add information here on how to clean up the tools and the hands after caulking? How do you get the extra caulk off of the smoothing tool? And if you wear latex gloves, how to clean the gloves.
If the caulk is still wet, you can easily wipe off the excess with a damp cloth or paper towel. For silicone caulk, using a bit of rubbing alcohol on the cloth can help remove any residue. If the caulk has dried, you might need to gently scrape it off with a putty knife or use a caulk remover solution. For latex gloves I would just throw them away.
@@TopHomeowner Thank you.
Denatured alcohol works good.
Two questions:
1- is been 7 months since the video, how is the caulk holding up? (trying to decide if I should buy gorilla or not).
2- wouldn't the tape leave a ridge or lip where the moisture could start getting in?
It's holding up great! As for the tape, I don't really have a ridge and forcing it into the crack makes for a better seal
RTV, a very popular caulk, has orange/ pink mold within a few months no matter what you do to maintain it.
have a small bottle of soapy water handy to lightly spray over your freshly caulked area. when you run your finger over the area it make it much smoother ands cleaner finish.
Great informative video. I feel less nervous as I try to tackle removing and applying calk around my tube. Hopefully, applying the painter’s tape as a guide will help.
Great video. Going to try it. Thank you.
Awesome video! Very, very useful! 👏👏👏
I have a silly question. So i have to do the bottom and the sides of my shower and probably the very top. I would work my way top to bottom or do the sides so (up and down) and then do the very top and then do the very bottom right? Or does it not matter?
Perfect timing thank you!
Thanks for this! Quick question - we had some bathroom repair and they recaulked the tub/shower. Not sure what they used but it started to yellow pretty fast. Anyway to whiten it up or will it have to be all redone?
Redone
My contractor grouted the corner joints. I've had one corner cleaned and re-grouted twice. It's cracking again, so clearly there is expansion/contraction happening. Any harm cleaning the joint with alcohol and lay a bead of silicone directly over the grout?
The alcohol tip was a lifesaver! 🙏🏽
Liquid Cigarette lighter fluid works, as a matter of fact you can thin out silicone with lighter fluid. We used to thin out silicone and dip our slot car tires in it back in the early 70’s for more traction.
Force the caulk in the gap. Got it 👍🏼
😂😂😂😂
We just had colored siliconized acrylic caulk applied between the wall and floor in our shower, but there are small cracks appearing in it. Any recommendations?
Cut it out and replace it with Super Grout Additive epoxy or 100% silicone. Siliconized Acrylic Caulk is not rated for the transition joint at the base of the shower, says so right on the tube (usually)..not for use on continuously wet surfaces. The cracks are because it is shrinking since it is water based. The installer probably did it too wet (like with a sponge for example) which weakens it. Color Rite Inc in OK matches every grout manufacturers colors and even has a satin finish and sanded finish. I've been re-grouting/re-caulking showers for 20+ years.
Can you put 2 coats, and if so when should you apply? Thank you
You could do 10 coats if you wanted to but no it's not a good idea to do 2 coats
Thanks for the video, helped me plan my bathroom job
Great to hear!
Great video only tip missed is using soapy water on finger or finishing tool. :)
NO soapy water because caulk will not adhere where the water-based soapy water comes into contact with the wall/floor. Will eventually peel away at the edges of the caulk.
Wet tooling is for clueless wankers
very THROUGH AND INFORMATIVE! tHANKS
Thank you so much for the great tips! Very helpful 👍😊