Hello, I put a chip in a 123 like you did in this 153. I had to advance the flywheel a lot, about 30 degrees. Had to leave out the fly wheel key. Turned out the chip fired at tdc. Check with timing light. Used the mark on the fly wheel / case. Make a new mark with timinglight to compare. Grtz from Holland.
Hi Tinman I had the same issue when installing the same ignition chip in my 133 I cut out the black piece in the middle and extended the timing holes with a chainsaw file about 10mm, started first kick and runs like a dream
Hey Tinman , its still the Timing. The Pop is not barky enough. There no hate in the Pop. You need someone with a Timing light pistol . Put a Mark on Tdc than another on -20 deg. Strobe on the -20 Mark . Timing is very important to not Fry the Piston. The Idle on that saw is normally very low. You could file a new Slot into the Flywheel, when you Figured out the Advance you need with a Timinglight and set your precise Timing with the original slots of the Ignitionplate. After that, you could search the airleak if there is one. Or you advance the Timing till she bites you while pulling and then you turn it a bit later😵💫 Hope you get this nice Monster running . My 143 is a dream and yours will be it too! Best Wishes from Germany!
Hi Tinman I have two of these saws. When the Bosch ignition unit started to play up when the saw was hot I tried the oregon chip rout. The saw would start and run OK but would not pull the skin off a rice pudding. Didn't matter where I put the timing it would still run but gutless. Found a good second hand bosch original unit, saw back one hundred % . I think the chips work fine to replace points and condenser (put one in my super pro 81) but not electronic units. Also have a dolmar 133 which when I bought it had a chip unit in it never ran right either to far advanced on the timing. Put a original Bosch unit back in to it, and it's perfect. I think there is a later type Bosch unit that the chip might work with but its never worked for me with the type that you have on your 153. Apart from the ignition issues they are a great saw, beutifuly made and very reliable. In there day they where the best out there in the 100cc class. Say Hi to Buckin! Regards Adrian
Hey Tinman, if you decide that you want to increase the timing more you can use and offset flywheel key to advance the flywheel since you already have the ignition plate as far advanced as it will go. In the past I’ve used offset keys in saw’s that have fixed ignition coils and breaker plates in order to increase the timing and it works pretty well. I have also filed down the upper half of flywheel keys to get the same result as an offset key.
I had one old Stijl with a bare wire from the switch touch bare metal and shut off the saw. Only run long enough to vibrate. Man did I ever get tired pulling that 056 . I cut a piece of fuel line the long way and slide it over the bare wire now it’s 2 pull’s and runs
Aftermarket viton crank seals are easy to get on eBay. They should be a 17x30x7. Some are a 17x28x7. As for the leaking fuel, the plastic nipple on the top of the tank has a vent hole in it and at this point the hose that covers them is usually gone so when you tip the saw they leak all over. I have like 5 of these things but most are the green poulan version. Videos on my page.
Just like german cars, they run great, until they don't. At least you're getting your exercise on these rainy days. Pouring down in Tassie today but it is winter here. Cheers Tinman.
I had a similar problem with my Homelite 8800. I was third owner and nobody had been able to get the saw running. It turned out to be an air leak in the intake boot. Apparently it had been poorly formed and wouldn't seal against the mounting plate. After finding the air leak I discovered the fuel filter also deteriorating and producing very fine particles which clogged the carb filter. After about a month I managed to sort everything out. Now, its my favorite saw!
Hey Tinman, I had a pretty similar deal on 3 saws sp125s that I chiped they'd start but couldn't tune could tell it was timing would back fire at high rpm. read where a guy reverse the po·lar·i·ty tried it and ring ning Ning Ning ran like a scalded dog... worth a try
Agreed I would say airleak for sure just went thru something similar on ms440.. some one lost a cylinder bolt and threaded in a incorrect bolt and didn't tighten down blew base gasket out.
Just finished repairing a Dolmar 143 the 95 cc version. And yes you do have to start them like you mean it, one of my favourite sayings and I have the blister to prove it. The bars for these saws are getting hard to find. I think origon make a hard nose I think. Cheers.
It does kinda seem like an air leak. A pressure/vacuum test couldn't hurt or when she's running, spray some brake clean around. Maby try grinding the notches in the ignition plate and giving it a little more timing? Often, the most challenging projects are the most rewarding! I know you'll figure it out! As always, thanks for sharing👍
Hay tinman I know your busy with the rental and home stuff. Congratulations on the baby hope it all goes well. Nothing better then kiddos. Just got a ? Farmteck g395xp should a guy put a husqvarna oem crank, rod and bearings in one or thay good the way they are. I'd like to send it to you for port work. I have watch alot of your videos. Learned a lot by watching I've done a base delete gasket on a 262 XP cleaned up piston a little not much to the intake or exhaust but helped it out pretty good bit thanks for the content
I just finished a 133 fun saw to run, just strip it down and put new gaskets in it and make sure your earth ground wire coating hasn't fell off, it will save killing your arm lol.
Have you considered checking a known good igniter and checking the resistance? Its probably a cap! Or a transistor? Match one to get your timing offset as I suspect there will be a load into the "cap" then a trigger which could translate to a time delay impulse to the coil. Not sure just a thought
I freakn love this saw if u decide to let er go after u done playn id possibly be interested depending on time of year it was available. Jus putn it out there my friend.
By your own advice, process of elimination, start with the simple things first. I'm leaning towards timing though. I'd back it up 1/4 of the distance you adjusted it and try from there. Air leaks are an operators nightmare for sure. Pressure test should narrow it down quickly. I struggled with them on both 268s I have. They were both running but once they warmed up became very finicky, small air leak on one seal, both saws. Not really the same issue you are having. Very frustrating until you figure it out then comes the ultimate reward. Keep at it but I would go after the low hanging fruit, the simple stuff. TC Tinman Mahalo 🤙🤙🤙
a did having one saw with similar problems. a did do everything and did not getting it running. then a did change the flywheel and did get it working.the magnets on the flywheel was too weak and did not getting good spark allways under compression. can be airleak too.
The Lumberjack Jackyl Composition: Jesse James Dupree Ha haaa I was born in the backwoods Of a two-bit nowhere town Fathered up some rock 'n' roll (baby) So your mothers could boogie down I ain't whistling Dixie No I'm a rebel with a groove All around the world the go 'round and 'round When they dig on my new stainless steel sound oh yeah I'm said a lumberjack baby And I'm gonna cut you down to size I'm a lumberjack now baby And you're the one you're the one that gets my prize When you hear my motor running You know I surely be coppin' a rise Oh! So I'm gonna crank it up down the alley and jack it Woo I'm a lumberjack now baby I'm a lumberjack now baby I'm a lumberjack now baby Ohh I'm a lumberjack now baby But I ain't jacked my lumber baby Since my chainsaw you (Oh yeah) Ha haaa Whether you like it or whether you don't woo That's the way we like it
Did you go back in and tighten the other ignition timing screw you only tighten 1 screw then started putting flywheel back on...that screw comes out its going to destroy the magnets and ignition
Hey buddy ur way more advanced as a builder than me but possibly ur spark arrestor is plugged I noticed on them big saws every body runs them fat as all get out maybe she's just plugged with unburnt oil
Was wondering if you ever figured out your dolmar 153 problem. I have a dolmar with the same exact problem and have done all the same things as you. New carb, new top end which it didn’t need new fuel filter new fuel lines only thing I haven’t done is timing or ignition. It starts rind ok for a little while and stops running. Boggy the whole time.
How's the fuel line into the tank? I had one of these years ago & it loved sucking its fuel lines flat - leading to blisters. Turned out the tank filter was janky. I used swear a lot starting it - sold it for 100 quid - now wish I hadn't.
I think I am throwing away my 120 Super. After 400 dollars invested . Having the same issues as you are. Calling it quits. You have to know when to fold 'em
Can you give me this chainsaw, I really need it to work. I'm Vietnamese. My name is my address agriculturist The village of Giang Ha Quang is as high as I will wait for this device of yours, thank you
Hello, I put a chip in a 123 like you did in this 153. I had to advance the flywheel a lot, about 30 degrees. Had to leave out the fly wheel key. Turned out the chip fired at tdc. Check with timing light. Used the mark on the fly wheel / case. Make a new mark with timinglight to compare.
Grtz from Holland.
Bless you Tinman, you are providing generations with power saw repairing and building information in everyone of your educational videos:)
Hi Tinman I had the same issue when installing the same ignition chip in my 133 I cut out the black piece in the middle and extended the timing holes with a chainsaw file about 10mm, started first kick and runs like a dream
Hey Tinman , its still the Timing. The Pop is not barky enough. There no hate in the Pop. You need someone with a Timing light pistol . Put a Mark on Tdc than another on -20 deg. Strobe on the -20 Mark . Timing is very important to not Fry the Piston. The Idle on that saw is normally very low. You could file a new Slot into the Flywheel, when you Figured out the Advance you need with a Timinglight and set your precise Timing with the original slots of the Ignitionplate. After that, you could search the airleak if there is one.
Or you advance the Timing till she bites you while pulling and then you turn it a bit later😵💫
Hope you get this nice Monster running . My 143 is a dream and yours will be it too! Best Wishes from Germany!
Get it going then spray break cleaner round the suspect areas, carby gaskets, head gasket, crank seals, you’ll soon know. Cheers from NZ
My only possible diagnosis is that ol Dolly must have a lil stage freight haha seems it rans just fine when the cameras off
Hi Tinman
I have two of these saws. When the Bosch ignition unit started to play up when the saw was hot I tried the oregon chip rout. The saw would start and run OK but would not pull the skin off a rice pudding. Didn't matter where I put the timing it would still run but gutless. Found a good second hand bosch original unit, saw back one hundred % . I think the chips work fine to replace points and condenser (put one in my super pro 81) but not electronic units. Also have a dolmar 133 which when I bought it had a chip unit in it never ran right either to far advanced on the timing. Put a original Bosch unit back in to it, and it's perfect. I think there is a later type Bosch unit that the chip might work with but its never worked for me with the type that you have on your 153. Apart from the ignition issues they are a great saw, beutifuly made and very reliable. In there day they where the best out there in the 100cc class. Say Hi to Buckin!
Regards Adrian
Hey Tinman, if you decide that you want to increase the timing more you can use and offset flywheel key to advance the flywheel since you already have the ignition plate as far advanced as it will go. In the past I’ve used offset keys in saw’s that have fixed ignition coils and breaker plates in order to increase the timing and it works pretty well. I have also filed down the upper half of flywheel keys to get the same result as an offset key.
You are the most thorough and with a positive attitude and persistency!!👍👍👍👍💪💪💪
I had one old Stijl with a bare wire from the switch touch bare metal and shut off the saw. Only run long enough to vibrate. Man did I ever get tired pulling that 056 . I cut a piece of fuel line the long way and slide it over the bare wire now it’s 2 pull’s and runs
Love the video Tinman. Keep up the good work. All the ways from West Cork Ireland👍
Aftermarket viton crank seals are easy to get on eBay. They should be a 17x30x7. Some are a 17x28x7. As for the leaking fuel, the plastic nipple on the top of the tank has a vent hole in it and at this point the hose that covers them is usually gone so when you tip the saw they leak all over. I have like 5 of these things but most are the green poulan version. Videos on my page.
I’m hooked on this channel and learning a ton, thank you.
The tools and parts dancing on the bench when you set the running saw down was my favorite part of the whole video.
Just like german cars, they run great, until they don't. At least you're getting your exercise on these rainy days. Pouring down in Tassie today but it is winter here. Cheers Tinman.
I had a similar problem with my Homelite 8800. I was third owner and nobody had been able to get the saw running. It turned out to be an air leak in the intake boot. Apparently it had been poorly formed and wouldn't seal against the mounting plate. After finding the air leak I discovered the fuel filter also deteriorating and producing very fine particles which clogged the carb filter. After about a month I managed to sort everything out. Now, its my favorite saw!
If you're getting all the rain, set up rain catchment system to reduce your trips for water.
Thanks for sharing your progress Tinman!
Hey Tinman, I had a pretty similar deal on 3 saws sp125s that I chiped they'd start but couldn't tune could tell it was timing would back fire at high rpm. read where a guy reverse the po·lar·i·ty tried it and ring ning Ning Ning ran like a scalded dog... worth a try
I’ve heard this too but never had to do it myself. Sounds like it’s worth a try
Are you sure you tightened both bolts on timing wheel? It looked like you only tightened one...
Exactly what I saw 😳 off cameras magic I hope
i agree
Agreed I would say airleak for sure just went thru something similar on ms440.. some one lost a cylinder bolt and threaded in a incorrect bolt and didn't tighten down blew base gasket out.
hey Tin Man you didn't tighten the other screw on your coil thought I would let you know I caught it love what you do keep rocking it brother
Seals are leaking. Especially if starting or running is affected by the chain brake. May also need main bearings. Time to split her! Rich L from R.I.
Love everything you do 👍🏻
Thanks!
Thankyou longbar!!
Just finished repairing a Dolmar 143 the 95 cc version. And yes you do have to start them like you mean it, one of my favourite sayings and I have the blister to prove it. The bars for these saws are getting hard to find. I think origon make a hard nose I think. Cheers.
It does kinda seem like an air leak. A pressure/vacuum test couldn't hurt or when she's running, spray some brake clean around. Maby try grinding the notches in the ignition plate and giving it a little more timing? Often, the most challenging projects are the most rewarding! I know you'll figure it out! As always, thanks for sharing👍
Hay tinman I know your busy with the rental and home stuff. Congratulations on the baby hope it all goes well. Nothing better then kiddos. Just got a ? Farmteck g395xp should a guy put a husqvarna oem crank, rod and bearings in one or thay good the way they are. I'd like to send it to you for port work. I have watch alot of your videos. Learned a lot by watching I've done a base delete gasket on a 262 XP cleaned up piston a little not much to the intake or exhaust but helped it out pretty good bit thanks for the content
Some times we need to just stop rest and try another day
I just finished a 133 fun saw to run, just strip it down and put new gaskets in it and make sure your earth ground wire coating hasn't fell off, it will save killing your arm lol.
When you made that first timing adjustment; it looked like you only tightened one of the screws. Maybe the second one got tightened off camera?
You ever get tired of cranking those things, grap an impact driver and keep the recoil cover off just apply electrickery to it 👍
Have you considered checking a known good igniter and checking the resistance? Its probably a cap! Or a transistor? Match one to get your timing offset as I suspect there will be a load into the "cap" then a trigger which could translate to a time delay impulse to the coil. Not sure just a thought
I freakn love this saw if u decide to let er go after u done playn id possibly be interested depending on time of year it was available. Jus putn it out there my friend.
Also just to let u know u can fix original Bosch ignition I done a 2 part video on it man🤙
Good work, keep up with.
So, when are they giving you your Doctor cert in saws? It's cool seeing all this. Thanks Tim man.🤙
hmmm dolmars i don't know much on so I'm puzzled on this one lol.
By your own advice, process of elimination, start with the simple things first. I'm leaning towards timing though. I'd back it up 1/4 of the distance you adjusted it and try from there. Air leaks are an operators nightmare for sure. Pressure test should narrow it down quickly. I struggled with them on both 268s I have. They were both running but once they warmed up became very finicky, small air leak on one seal, both saws. Not really the same issue you are having. Very frustrating until you figure it out then comes the ultimate reward. Keep at it but I would go after the low hanging fruit, the simple stuff. TC Tinman Mahalo 🤙🤙🤙
I have been very lucky I've never had a bottom end leak only carburetor base gaskets
a did having one saw with similar problems. a did do everything and did not getting it running. then a did change the flywheel and did get it working.the magnets on the flywheel was too weak and did not getting good spark allways under compression. can be airleak too.
I had a McCulloch 1010 that was acting similar and I found out the condenser went bad so I replaced it with a module
Tack!
Thankyou per
I had a defective flywheel magnet on a 288xp give me almost the exact same symptoms
Nice home lite you sent to Buckin
The Lumberjack
Jackyl
Composition: Jesse James Dupree
Ha haaa
I was born in the backwoods
Of a two-bit nowhere town
Fathered up some rock 'n' roll (baby)
So your mothers could boogie down
I ain't whistling Dixie
No I'm a rebel with a groove
All around the world the go 'round and 'round
When they dig on my new stainless steel sound oh yeah
I'm said a lumberjack baby
And I'm gonna cut you down to size
I'm a lumberjack now baby
And you're the one you're the one that gets my prize
When you hear my motor running
You know I surely be coppin' a rise
Oh! So I'm gonna crank it up down the alley and jack it
Woo
I'm a lumberjack now baby
I'm a lumberjack now baby
I'm a lumberjack now baby
Ohh I'm a lumberjack now baby
But I ain't jacked my lumber baby
Since my chainsaw you
(Oh yeah)
Ha haaa
Whether you like it or whether you don't woo
That's the way we like it
Crank seals Tinman
Ground wire connection
That saw has an air leak someplace and may have the ignition a tad to advanced and you could try another carb on it just to see what you get
Take care of that blister.
well you got a workout right arm anyway, trust your gut
I have a 112 , had it in the shop and will not start, thinking no spark, going to take to a different shop
Did you go back in and tighten the other ignition timing screw you only tighten 1 screw then started putting flywheel back on...that screw comes out its going to destroy the magnets and ignition
Time to pull it down, most likely needs seals or a case gasket
Nice storm sound
Seems like air leak to me. You’ll get it figured out
Hey buddy I’d whack a new set of seals in it and maybe intake gaskets
Hey bud! How are you going with this saw?? Thought I’d ask haven’t seen it in forever lol 👊❤️
Is the compression good? Had a saw with the same issues, turned out it was worn rings and low compression. Love the variety of saws.
Hey buddy ur way more advanced as a builder than me but possibly ur spark arrestor is plugged I noticed on them big saws every body runs them fat as all get out maybe she's just plugged with unburnt oil
that is a very good point I have a ms170 Stihl and the spark arrestor was plugged in it and wasn't allowing it to get enough air flow out
Was wondering if you ever figured out your dolmar 153 problem. I have a dolmar with the same exact problem and have done all the same things as you. New carb, new top end which it didn’t need new fuel filter new fuel lines only thing I haven’t done is timing or ignition. It starts rind ok for a little while and stops running. Boggy the whole time.
How's the fuel line into the tank? I had one of these years ago & it loved sucking its fuel lines flat - leading to blisters. Turned out the tank filter was janky. I used swear a lot starting it - sold it for 100 quid - now wish I hadn't.
😎
Saya pernah memakai mesin itu. Tapi CDI nya seperti meleleh dan rusak. Cari partsnya tidak ada.
Sorry mate. When u rebuilt carb did u do a leakdown test? Like Leon does
Flywheel just 120 degrees off?
Did you ever get the poulan ported?
Indonesia exspor tu dolmar
On off switch
totally strage I have a Dolmar PS400 with the same greyish paint splatter on it..
I think I am throwing away my 120 Super. After 400 dollars invested . Having the same issues as you are. Calling it quits. You have to know when to fold 'em
heck yeah if I had the money I would buy it from you
Hello
I have a dolmar 119, unfortunately the brake is broken and there are no more spare parts... The belt is broken
Greetings from Germany PIT
Can you give me this chainsaw, I really need it to work. I'm Vietnamese. My name is my address
agriculturist
The village of Giang Ha Quang is as high as
I will wait for this device of yours, thank you