My son and I replaced 3 feet of brake line on his 97 buick a few months ago. We used your first method of brake bleeding. It worked out great Gerry! MB BAR RANCH
Hi Martin. Delighted it worked for you.We dont have many American cars here. Steering wheel on the other side and petrol / gas is lots more expensive here. Lots of diesel cars here getting 50+ miles per gallon. I worked in Oregon aver 20 years ago and loved the bigger engines. Thanks for commenting Cheers Gerry👍
@@GerrysDiy When you use this method, is the brake pedal in the car pressed down or not ?...Not to sound stupid but just curious, as Ive done my brakes before using a short pole compressing the petal while lodged against the seat. By what you said, sounds like this method totally bypasses pressing the brake at all !!!...Thanks !!!
You haven't learned much in 50 years then - brake pressure bleeders and vacuum bleeders were widely used when I first started doing brakes in 1976 (Almost 50 years)
If you're going to do it, use a turkey baster (or even the spray bottle) to suck all the old fluid out of the master reservoir and refill it with fresh clean fluid. You'll see the difference in colour. Then bleed the wheels until you see the clean fresh fluid come through. Keep topping up the reservoir. The colour in the fluid is contamination.
Long story short just bought Miracle Gro AA battery powered sprayer in clearance at Walmart for only $2.50! So the “I know I’ll need this feel” is even better when truly works out! Lol
@RAGNAR Why knock on people? We all learn things at some point, and I'd bet your PhD neighbor is more financially well-off by building the medical devices, and can pay people who are auto technicians to work on his cars.
I wouldn't trust it to get all the air out of the system. I have used suction to bleed the brakes and it is not very reliable. I will use a hand operated vacuum pump to get the fluid pulled through the system, but I found it never gets rid of all the air. I have found a simple product with a non-return (check valve) works like a charm. I use my phone's camera to video the fluid/bubbles out the tubing while I pump the pedal. I watch the video and can see when the bubbles are gone and when it is clean brake fluid flowing through. It is a true one-man bleeder product that works perfectly every time. The simple tool is the cost of a fast-food value meal. I don't need anybody's help to bleed the brakes now.
@@theophany1770 You can make a one man brake bleeder with a make-shift check valve just by taping a balloon to the end of a piece of tubing & cutting a slit or two in the folds on the side of the balloon. If you can't picture what I mean, just search "homemade one man brake bleeder" & it should come up.
Today is 9/12/2023...i went to change my brakes and unscrewed the brake fluid line not paying attention..i end up getting air in lines..long story short i used his method and my brakes work amazing..thanks Sir
Like you mentioned air is post fluid system. I worked as a brake and alignment monkey for ~8 years on flat rate. To bleed brakes even after caliper or wheel cyl replacement. Gravity bleed. crack all 4 bleeders let them drip until no more bubbles. close them. Two quick jabs on the pedal after they are closed. then start at furthes and crack bleeder. you'll get 2-3 bubbles and then solid fluid. 99.9% of time won't need a buddy or vacuum to bleed the brakes. usually did this while quoting another car. Worked in a few different shops and everyone did it this way. Quick Fast Easy.
This man deserves a medal. He deserves to be in Guinness world records book. This man deserves a town named after him. This is the smartest thing I’ve ever seen a human being do in my entire life. Thank you sir
Done the same thing only using engine vacuum as a pulling source. Found that I was actually pulling air INTO the brake cylinder. It's designed to prevent fluid from leaking when it's pressurized. When pressurized, the seals in the cylinder hold tight, preventing leaks and operating the brakes. When you pull a vacuum from INSIDE the cylinder (engine vacuum or hand pump) air can slip past the seals easily. If you don't get those air bubbles out you're just making a bad situation possibly worse. Seen these things on the internet before. While people swear they work - and they do work to some degree - they don't do as good a job as is done when the brake system is pressurized from the master cylinder down through the brake tubes and wheel cylinders.
Anything more than 5psi of pressure is way too much... I only pump it to 5 and let it sit, eventually will go down as bubbles come up (FYI I attach a fitting to top of master, not caliper) continue until system holds pressure for an hour. This method works on the clutch master as well and is the only way to bleed gm clutches properly
This probably works well to get most of the air out of the system, but I wouldn't trust it enough to get it all out. Air at the bleeder is still air in the system that will compress and make the pedal feel softer than if it was properly bled.
Now this is what i call innovation! Allways have to call the wife to pump brakes for some 40 years now. Very frustrating for both of us. And now i have found a solution! This is good news for me. You are a genius sir. Cannot thank you enough. God bless you.
I dont know...telling the wife she doesnt need to help you pump anymore, you have a spray bottle vacumn ....might not bode well for future....then again, if shes not needing to be wasting her time pumping your BRAKES.........
For the last 50 years I have used a piece of plastic pipe, put a ball bearing in the end and cut a slit at the ball bearing end of the pipe, connect the open end and press the brake, the fluid exits the slit which recloses when pressure is released. To be 100% safe, put the pipe in a bottle and the fluid prevents any chance of air getting in the pipe. Great for one man bleeds.
If you’re doing the 2-person bleed, know that if the cup in the master cylinder piston hits a ridge on the bore, such as accumulated dirt, you’ll be rebuilding it. Use short half strokes, not all the way to the firewall. A block of wood under the pedal may help.
Yes here is a tip for rusted bolts etc take a empty spray bottle fill with water about 3/4 way up add dish liquid shake well and use it to loosen rusted bolts etc works amazing
30 years of DIY mechanics, building engines, restoring vehicles and that’s genius! Brakes on my 100HP panda need bleeding after a rear disc change, I’ll try this method...one of those light bulb moments someone had!
30 years of doing all that mechanics and yet you think this ridiculous spray bottle "genius" hack is a good way of working on your brakes! Instead of using proper pressurising vessel with the gauge and doing the job properly!? That's just sad..
Thanks for the great tip. You might want to cut about 4 inches off the top of the empty window cleaner bottle and screw it back into the pump head so you have a more comfortable handle.
Yes good idea Gerry, but the main reason anyone needs to bleed their brakes is to remove any air trapped in the braking system, you can only be certain all air is removed from the system when no more bubbles exit the bleed nipples, in your demonstration it's wrong to assume the bubbles still exiting the nipple was due to air being sucked through the threads of the nipple, as some of those bubbles could be due to air still in the system. Best way to bleed brake systems is to use the pressurized method at the brake fluid reservoir, this way you get a steady flow of fluid being pushed out of the system, this steady flow is more likely to dislodge and remove trapped air pockets.
40 years doing brakes and never heard of greasing the bleeder valve. Never had any issues. To each his own I guess? Great idea. I will try your spray bottle technic.
Been there and done this. The advice you were given was totally correct, the bleed nipple threads need to be sealed to ensure there are no bubbles drawn through the threads - these bubbles would give an indiction that the brake system still has air in it. or If we stop bleeding because we assume the bubbles are coming through the thread then were are assuming there are no leaks in the brake system. Dangerouse. The way I have cured this problem (for vacum or syphon bleeding) is - * Remove the nipple and get the nipple and the female threads dry. * Apply a thin coat of automotive silicone sealer to the threads on the nipple. * Screw the nipple back in and commence bleeding the brake caliper through the nipple. * When no bubbles in brake fluid coming from the calliper close the nipple. Repeat this process for all remaining callipers. The silicon sealer acts as a an airtight gasket while bleeding and corrosion protection for the threads.
I've done this method and I prefer it over the old way. Everyone has there preferences there's no right or wrong way. This method is quick and simple no need to get back up and down and checking and pouring or pumping brakes. Thats why I prefer this method!
Caveat: Bubbles further up in the lines will take longer to appear using any vacuum method, since they aren't being pushed by the master cylinder piston. This applies more with wheels further from the master cylinder location, which you should bleed first.
As an aside, I like your channel name. 😄We need less attention to the laser pointers and loud noises, with more given to the back door shenanigans that will affect the quality of life of everyone. 😉 People have been fat, dumb and happy for too long, and their complacency, apathy and ignorance are coming to collect. As the saying goes, shit's gonna get real, really soon. I wish we could bleed the social system like a brake system. 😜
This technique was unheard of for me then I had to try it and all I can say is WOW! This saved me 200 bucks for the moment and the brakes on my Magnum are the best they've ever been! I tip my hat to you my good sir, this helped me SO much! Wish I could shake your hand
This is such an awesome and easy way to go about bleeding brakes! Don’t know why I haven’t thought of this, I did it today for two new calipers and it worked just as I hoped. Thanks!
I tried to bleed my brakes over the weekend using this spray bottle method and there are a lot of little pit falls that were not highlighted.... Like you need to seal the bleeders threads, and you need to remove the master cylinder reservoir cap, and it's a good idea to prime the sprayer with brake fluid first .... long story short, I ended up doing it with a pressure bottle a the reservoir, all done. lol
I watched this video for the 1st time about 3 years ago. I had never done any kind of work on my car but decided to replace my rear rotors, calipers and pads myself by watching UA-cam videos. This was one of those videos! This little "life hack" has stuck with me as I've apparently become an amateur mechanic since that brake job. 😂 I just came across this video again and wanted to say thank u! Definitely genius!
I pondered this invention more than once without actually trying it. I just made mine using your steps. It’ll remain the single greatest tool in my garage. You Da Man!
It’s better though to remove some of the old fluid from the master cylinder first and then add new fluid to it. Then as you do this you will see the fluid colour change to be the new clear, bubble free stuff. Then you know it’s air free. If you wanted to change the brake fluid for the entire car, do this starting with the rear passenger wheel first (furthest from the master cylinder) and then move on to the driver side rear wheel, then the passenger side front wheel and then the driver front wheel making sure to add new fluid to the master cylinder before starting each wheel to ensure you don’t run it dry and pull in air. When you do this you will have changed out your entire brake fluid system for new fluid.
those bubbles are caused by agitation. took me a while to get it. You have to squeeze the trigger slowly up and down. Similar to pressing the pedal too much causing froth and liquid draining too fast from the master.
It took a few moments to realize a spanner is a box end wrench. Just the difference between U.K. English and California English. This was an incredible idea. I need to bleed the brakes on my 1981 Mercedes 240d. The calipers were starting to leak and the hose had developed a crack. I replaced everything on the front brakes and next I need to do the back breaks. This was a great video.
This is fantastic. I may try this out, but before I crack the brake line, gonna pump the trigger a few times to get a good vacuum going, see if I can force some fluid out when I crack it.
Holy schnitke Batman! Wow - BRILLIANT!!! That tip alone gets You into My HALL OF FAME Car/Truck Guys Who TOTALLY Changed My Way Of Thinking After Decades Of Not Thinking Outside Of The Box!!!
Loosen the Brake reservoir filler cap, gravity will move the fluid out from the bleeder nipple with much less air. Let the bubbles settle out along the clear tube. Air will always rise. No need for a pump. Don't let the reservoir get empty.
Ingenious !!!.....only thing I could suggest about this idea would be to make hose long enough to reach the fluid reservoir to add fluid back into reservoir (front brakes only of course lol)
UA-cam has some great videos uploaded by smart people. This is excellent and can't wait to try it out soon when I change the rear calipers on my dad's car
Nice method to get the bulk of old fluid out of the system. I would suggest to a) repeat this 2-3 times and put new brake fluid into the reservoir (before it runs low) to get fresh fluid into the caliper. b) Additonally. Do the 2 man pedal pump/crack open method at least 2-3 times in the end to make sure no air made it into the caliper through the threads (as we can clearly see even with the grease theres a lot of air sucked in through the threads).
I love those simple ideas. Here's one: Buy a standard bottle brush for kitchen glasses, rip off the handle, and tighten it in your cordless drill. Now you can brush out a lot of things quicker with the drill. I even got a small bottle brush for reaching into smaller openings. Enjoy :)
Brilliant! I am about to do this to bleed my brakes and I noticed my wheels need a good cleaning. I'm going to use this brush idea if I can find out where I put my drill.
@@orchids3332 Thanks. I came up with that one all by myself. The next day I bought 8 brushes at the dollar store. I keep one in each bathroom, one at utility sink, two in the garage... Here's another trick I learned. I had a truck with super scratched glass from sand laying in the track. I took 000 fine steel wool, attached it to a cordless drill, used soapy water.. and buffed the glass to a super fine shine.
You can also uset toilet brush for scrubbing bigger objects like wheels? Just break the handle's uneven part off and put the rest in the drill. I saw it on Smart fox YT channel.
I was going to buy a $20 dollar brake bleeder kit that appears in a video on the right hand side of the screen from Harbor Freight. Thanks, you saved me $20.! Thumbs up and subscribed from Folsom California.
Awesome idea, I also took a 1/2 drill and used it to drill 1/2" hole in center of bottle cap, the spray nozzle fits snuggly, I ran a bead of permatex around the nozzle and cap to seal it, hot glue works well also, then with about two inches of fluid in bottle, for weight, u can use a rubber band to hold trigger compressed, with bottle standing and tubing running in smooth arc, the bottle with cap/nozzle/ rubber band, works well as a siphon to pull fluid thru the lines in a flush situation, so simply use beverage bottle, 1ltr coke I used, sealed cap/nozzle, pump til fluid comes in tubing, use rubber band, no loops, or sags in tubing, and u have a siphon, thanks for the start of a great idea
This is genious and super clean. I spent money on a special pump with a collection bottle in between the nipple and the pump. The bleeding affair was pure misery with break fluid ending up on the floor, my gloves and all over. Next time, I will use an old windex bottle. I do not know why I did not think of this myself. It is simply beautiful.
By far the smartest Its not just showing how to do it But also The best and cheapest solution to make it a 5 minute job for pretty much everyone above 12 years old
That's brilliant! Here is a tip someone taught me long ago. Put a pry bar between the brake pedal and seat. Move the seat forward enough to force the brake pedal to the halfway point. This will cause the piston in the master cylinder to block off the fluid ports. This will prevent the master from running dry during repairs, but keep in mind some cars can have their brake lights on even with the key off. So keep the battery charger in mind. Saves time during bleeding.
If you're opening the system, why would you not want to do a flush with fresh at the same time? If you're having to change a caliper or flex line, odds are the fluid is done too.
@@hydewhyte4364 I agree with you, but if you are replacing the fluid as well I think it's better to empty the reservoir from the top and then disconnecting the lines you need to change, note that there will be some drips before the lines empty completely. But In my case I did a complete bleed and flush before I changed the lines. So I used the technique mentioned and it works wonders. If you are replacing the fluid and some lines and you don't wanna take the risk of emptying the master cylinder or getting air trapped in it, you do the bleeding first and then the brake pedal technique after, when changing the lines. Some master cylinders can get the trapped air removed only by disconnecting the output line, specially in motorbikes, and I don't like this.
This is real left field thinking..Brilliant. Better than pumping the brake which can damage the brake master cylinder seals on much older vehicles. Thanks mate most excellent !
Hey Gerry had a problem bleeding front brake on my Kawasaki vn1500, watched your video went out and tried your idea and straight away I had a front brake. Thanks bud keep the videos coming
Going to be doing brakes today. This is genius.. sealey one man brake bleeder kits have propably took a huge loss in sales recently thanks to this lol..
use a used shower gel pump. it doesn't squirt. just pump with more volume out. I made one and will try it out soon. shall post a video and the link if its successful.
My preferred method is a circular bleed, get a long piece of 5 or 6mm clear tube, put one end over nipple and the other back into the reservoir ( make a little hook of metal tube to hang there), then pump as hard as you like, gets lots of circulation. Then if your fluid is dirty, just fill the main with fresh fluid and catch the exiting fluid to throw away.
I use a Harbor Freight hand pump vacuum bleeder and experience the same bubbles. As Gerry explained it is harmless as it is on the outside of the brake caliper fluid chamber. I just work up a vacuum and let it pull out enough fluid to make me feel confident the reservoir in the caliper is bled. Using the squirt bottle system should work well as long as you keep pumping the trigger until the bleeder is closed.
I find it easier to spray horizontally, if you point the nozzle downwards it has trouble to spray after a while. Just spray into bigger bottle which you hold at an angle bottom away from you.
Yeah they are designed that way, so the pickup tube is in the liquid I.e pick up straight down. When you get your ears tuned in ,you can hear the atomized air fluid v straight brake fluid just by the different sound and spray pattern.
I just put the hose on the bleeder going up, then down into a can, crack the bleeder and wait for the fluid to drain out & bubbles to stop. Gravity does all the work. It takes longer, but you can smoke one cigarette at each wheel. Just don't forget to keep an eye on the master cylinder level!
Kudos, its a smart way to make sure there is no air bubbles in your caliper or near the end of the lines. But for a whole fluid replacement I would still have someone sitting in the car and pump the brake. Its way faster. Nice vid.
I didn't have the best results from this and I instead just got an 8 dollar self bleeder kit that I always use and it was WAY faster and more efficient but in an emergency situation this would work enough to get you back on the road. Great tip tho.
I Just use a bottle and a piece of hose for brakes, but I am DEFINITELY going to try this next time I have to bleed a clutch master cylinder. Thanks for the great idea!
Man, i just watch your video again because i want to say thank you !!!!!!!!!! I have Keeway and i change his master cilinder because i was unable to build pressure your trick with spray gun and grease worked without spending lot if new oil and time!!! Thank u
I use synthetic grease on the threads if I get air bubbles while bleeding. Do not use thread tape. Also, if you open the bleeder too much, you will create air bubbles. It just needs a tiny turn.
My son and I replaced 3 feet of brake line on his 97 buick a few months ago. We used your first method of brake bleeding. It worked out great Gerry!
MB BAR RANCH
Hi Martin. Delighted it worked for you.We dont have many American cars here. Steering wheel on the other side and petrol / gas is lots more expensive here. Lots of diesel cars here getting 50+ miles per gallon. I worked in Oregon aver 20 years ago and loved the bigger engines. Thanks for commenting Cheers Gerry👍
Great idea I'll try it 🙂
@@GerrysDiy When you use this method, is the brake pedal in the car pressed down or not ?...Not to sound stupid but just curious, as Ive done my brakes before using a short pole compressing the petal while lodged against the seat. By what you said, sounds like this method totally bypasses pressing the brake at all !!!...Thanks !!!
@@humblewarrior6585 you don't touch the brake pedal with this method.
Sorry to ask is a Buick the same as a vauxhall mokka
I’ve been bleeding brakes for 50 years - always needed two people. This is brilliant. Many thanks.
You haven't learned much in 50 years then - brake pressure bleeders and vacuum bleeders were widely used when I first started doing brakes in 1976 (Almost 50 years)
40 years as a mechanic and never thought of this.
GENIUS!!
You mean to tell me for 40 years of bleeding brakes I could of done this!?!? Ah! An't no way😂 the40yearguy
Don't be stupid 😂😂😂
42 years a mech and never thought of this. Genius!
If you're going to do it, use a turkey baster (or even the spray bottle) to suck all the old fluid out of the master reservoir and refill it with fresh clean fluid. You'll see the difference in colour. Then bleed the wheels until you see the clean fresh fluid come through. Keep topping up the reservoir. The colour in the fluid is contamination.
I did this with one of those pumps from a shampoo bottle. The big ones can pump quite a bit of fluid.
Long story short just bought Miracle Gro AA battery powered sprayer in clearance at Walmart for only $2.50! So the “I know I’ll need this feel” is even better when truly works out! Lol
Dude, not even Auto school or professional experience has taught me something this useful as alternatives. Thank you.
@RAGNAR Why knock on people? We all learn things at some point, and I'd bet your PhD neighbor is more financially well-off by building the medical devices, and can pay people who are auto technicians to work on his cars.
I wouldn't trust it to get all the air out of the system. I have used suction to bleed the brakes and it is not very reliable. I will use a hand operated vacuum pump to get the fluid pulled through the system, but I found it never gets rid of all the air.
I have found a simple product with a non-return (check valve) works like a charm. I use my phone's camera to video the fluid/bubbles out the tubing while I pump the pedal. I watch the video and can see when the bubbles are gone and when it is clean brake fluid flowing through. It is a true one-man bleeder product that works perfectly every time.
The simple tool is the cost of a fast-food value meal. I don't need anybody's help to bleed the brakes now.
@@davidparker9676 but you don't share what the simple tool is?
@@theophany1770 It's a GearWrench 2538
"One-Man Brake Bleeder"
@@theophany1770
You can make a one man brake bleeder with a make-shift check valve just by taping a balloon to the end of a piece of tubing & cutting a slit or two in the folds on the side of the balloon. If you can't picture what I mean, just search "homemade one man brake bleeder" & it should come up.
Today is 9/12/2023...i went to change my brakes and unscrewed the brake fluid line not paying attention..i end up getting air in lines..long story short i used his method and my brakes work amazing..thanks Sir
Thank you sir, for your feed back. 👌
Like you mentioned air is post fluid system. I worked as a brake and alignment monkey for ~8 years on flat rate. To bleed brakes even after caliper or wheel cyl replacement. Gravity bleed. crack all 4 bleeders let them drip until no more bubbles. close them. Two quick jabs on the pedal after they are closed. then start at furthes and crack bleeder. you'll get 2-3 bubbles and then solid fluid. 99.9% of time won't need a buddy or vacuum to bleed the brakes. usually did this while quoting another car. Worked in a few different shops and everyone did it this way. Quick Fast Easy.
What about removing trapped air from clutch hydraulics? Same?
Gravity bleed is awesome
Going to do this next time !
@@MakerTools Yes.
This man deserves a medal. He deserves to be in Guinness world records book. This man deserves a town named after him. This is the smartest thing I’ve ever seen a human being do in my entire life. Thank you sir
You must be mental LOL, silly lapdog, it does it itself by gravity , no need for all that bollox going on..YT mechanics, funny people
He deserves a Guinness. Cheers!
Use a large 100ml syringe and Teflon tape on bleeder threads. No air gets past and it's super fast.
Done the same thing only using engine vacuum as a pulling source. Found that I was actually pulling air INTO the brake cylinder. It's designed to prevent fluid from leaking when it's pressurized. When pressurized, the seals in the cylinder hold tight, preventing leaks and operating the brakes. When you pull a vacuum from INSIDE the cylinder (engine vacuum or hand pump) air can slip past the seals easily. If you don't get those air bubbles out you're just making a bad situation possibly worse.
Seen these things on the internet before. While people swear they work - and they do work to some degree - they don't do as good a job as is done when the brake system is pressurized from the master cylinder down through the brake tubes and wheel cylinders.
Could it be that manifold vacuum has that problem, but the very gentle pressure difference of a window cleaner bottle just doesn't?
Anything more than 5psi of pressure is way too much... I only pump it to 5 and let it sit, eventually will go down as bubbles come up (FYI I attach a fitting to top of master, not caliper) continue until system holds pressure for an hour. This method works on the clutch master as well and is the only way to bleed gm clutches properly
50 years working on cars (shade tree mechanic) and you teach me something new that is extremely useful
This method takes the fear out of bleeding brakes without a helper. Fantastic!
This probably works well to get most of the air out of the system, but I wouldn't trust it enough to get it all out.
Air at the bleeder is still air in the system that will compress and make the pedal feel softer than if it was properly bled.
Meh it's so easy to do
Now this is what i call innovation! Allways have to call the wife to pump brakes for some 40 years now. Very frustrating for both of us. And now i have found a solution! This is good news for me. You are a genius sir. Cannot thank you enough. God bless you.
wow....so far it's been 20 years for me, so I can stop calling her now. save 20 years
I would like to see the look on your wife's face when you tell her she has been replaced by a spray bottle!
@@matthewmarch8707 even better frame a picture of the spray bottle top and put it in the family room next to all the relatives.
I dont know...telling the wife she doesnt need to help you pump anymore, you have a spray bottle vacumn ....might not bode well for future....then again, if shes not needing to be wasting her time pumping your BRAKES.........
For the last 50 years I have used a piece of plastic pipe, put a ball bearing in the end and cut a slit at the ball bearing end of the pipe, connect the open end and press the brake, the fluid exits the slit which recloses when pressure is released. To be 100% safe, put the pipe in a bottle and the fluid prevents any chance of air getting in the pipe. Great for one man bleeds.
If you’re doing the 2-person bleed, know that if the cup in the master cylinder piston hits a ridge on the bore, such as accumulated dirt, you’ll be rebuilding it. Use short half strokes, not all the way to the firewall. A block of wood under the pedal may help.
Yes here is a tip for rusted bolts etc take a empty spray bottle fill with water about 3/4 way up add dish liquid shake well and use it to loosen rusted bolts etc works amazing
I've been a mechanic for thirty years and I've never seen this. Brilliant.
30 years of DIY mechanics, building engines, restoring vehicles and that’s genius! Brakes on my 100HP panda need bleeding after a rear disc change, I’ll try this method...one of those light bulb moments someone had!
30 years of doing all that mechanics and yet you think this ridiculous spray bottle "genius" hack is a good way of working on your brakes! Instead of using proper pressurising vessel with the gauge and doing the job properly!? That's just sad..
@@larock-np8zc
Then wjy in the world would you watch this video?! 🤔
This is one of those slap your head obvious solutions...why didn't I think of this myself? Genius, Gerry! Well done.
Have to agree. Bloody obvious now. Can’t wait to try it.
😂
The blue tube
If the brake fluid is clean already.....should work but if the fluid is dirty rust or other debris....that tiny spray is clogged.
Couldn't put it better myself.
Man and I was just about to head to harbor freight and buy a break bleeder,thanks for you knowledge sir
I've been working on cars 30 years I could hug him I appreciate it boss thank you from Houston Texas
Thanks for the great tip. You might want to cut about 4 inches off the top of the empty window cleaner bottle and screw it back into the pump head so you have a more comfortable handle.
Or just stick the hose through a hole in the bottle..
Damn right idea! :)
Genius
Yes good idea Gerry, but the main reason anyone needs to bleed their brakes is to remove any air trapped in the braking system, you can only be certain all air is removed from the system when no more bubbles exit the bleed nipples, in your demonstration it's wrong to assume the bubbles still exiting the nipple was due to air being sucked through the threads of the nipple, as some of those bubbles could be due to air still in the system. Best way to bleed brake systems is to use the pressurized method at the brake fluid reservoir, this way you get a steady flow of fluid being pushed out of the system, this steady flow is more likely to dislodge and remove trapped air pockets.
Now start that process with the right rear then left rear followed by passenger front and driver front. 👍🏻
40 years doing brakes and never heard of greasing the bleeder valve. Never had any issues. To each his own I guess? Great idea. I will try your spray bottle technic.
Been there and done this.
The advice you were given was totally correct, the bleed nipple threads need to be sealed to ensure there are no bubbles drawn through the threads -
these bubbles would give an indiction that the brake system still has air in it.
or
If we stop bleeding because we assume the bubbles are coming through the thread then were are assuming there are no leaks in the brake system. Dangerouse.
The way I have cured this problem (for vacum or syphon bleeding) is -
* Remove the nipple and get the nipple and the female threads dry.
* Apply a thin coat of automotive silicone sealer to the threads on the nipple.
* Screw the nipple back in and commence bleeding the brake caliper through the nipple.
* When no bubbles in brake fluid coming from the calliper close the nipple.
Repeat this process for all remaining callipers.
The silicon sealer acts as a an airtight gasket while bleeding and corrosion protection for the threads.
pressure bleeding is better, feeds fluid to the reservoir and pushes the fluid through the system so nothing can get sucked in
I've done this method and I prefer it over the old way. Everyone has there preferences there's no right or wrong way. This method is quick and simple no need to get back up and down and checking and pouring or pumping brakes. Thats why I prefer this method!
Caveat: Bubbles further up in the lines will take longer to appear using any vacuum method, since they aren't being pushed by the master cylinder piston. This applies more with wheels further from the master cylinder location, which you should bleed first.
When the vacuum is on. Go in and press the brake
As an aside, I like your channel name. 😄We need less attention to the laser pointers and loud noises, with more given to the back door shenanigans that will affect the quality of life of everyone. 😉 People have been fat, dumb and happy for too long, and their complacency, apathy and ignorance are coming to collect. As the saying goes, shit's gonna get real, really soon. I wish we could bleed the social system like a brake system. 😜
@@YungEagle3k should've stayed aside........
Must one bleed the car when changing oil? Or top it up
@@shedrackobuene2521 no, just about every 3 years
This technique was unheard of for me then I had to try it and all I can say is WOW! This saved me 200 bucks for the moment and the brakes on my Magnum are the best they've ever been! I tip my hat to you my good sir, this helped me SO much! Wish I could shake your hand
Tip: If you wrap the bleeder screw with teflon tape, you will have a tighter seal AND less chance of the bleeder rusting in place.
I don’t think you’re supposed to use any Teflon on brake fittings lol.
@@user-hh4hc2lt6e On the bleeder screws....not the fittings. It keeps them from becoming one with the caliper.
This is such an awesome and easy way to go about bleeding brakes! Don’t know why I haven’t thought of this, I did it today for two new calipers and it worked just as I hoped. Thanks!
I tried to bleed my brakes over the weekend using this spray bottle method and there are a lot of little pit falls that were not highlighted.... Like you need to seal the bleeders threads, and you need to remove the master cylinder reservoir cap, and it's a good idea to prime the sprayer with brake fluid first .... long story short, I ended up doing it with a pressure bottle a the reservoir, all done. lol
I watched this video for the 1st time about 3 years ago. I had never done any kind of work on my car but decided to replace my rear rotors, calipers and pads myself by watching UA-cam videos. This was one of those videos! This little "life hack" has stuck with me as I've apparently become an amateur mechanic since that brake job. 😂 I just came across this video again and wanted to say thank u! Definitely genius!
So many years of working on cars and I come up with some pretty handy diy but never did I think of this. So simple yet so awesome. Thank you brother.
I pondered this invention more than once without actually trying it. I just made mine using your steps. It’ll remain the single greatest tool in my garage. You Da Man!
It’s better though to remove some of the old fluid from the master cylinder first and then add new fluid to it. Then as you do this you will see the fluid colour change to be the new clear, bubble free stuff. Then you know it’s air free. If you wanted to change the brake fluid for the entire car, do this starting with the rear passenger wheel first (furthest from the master cylinder) and then move on to the driver side rear wheel, then the passenger side front wheel and then the driver front wheel making sure to add new fluid to the master cylinder before starting each wheel to ensure you don’t run it dry and pull in air. When you do this you will have changed out your entire brake fluid system for new fluid.
Heat up the plastic tubing at the end a little and it'll stretch over your fluid valve, no need for adapters.
You sell alot of weed😁😁😁
Or rubbers😊@@kashmoni1085
I been working on cars for 40 years and I never seen anything like this, excellent video.
those bubbles are caused by agitation. took me a while to get it. You have to squeeze the trigger slowly up and down. Similar to pressing the pedal too much causing froth and liquid draining too fast from the master.
It took a few moments to realize a spanner is a box end wrench. Just the difference between U.K. English and California English. This was an incredible idea. I need to bleed the brakes on my 1981 Mercedes 240d. The calipers were starting to leak and the hose had developed a crack. I replaced everything on the front brakes and next I need to do the back breaks. This was a great video.
This is fantastic. I may try this out, but before I crack the brake line, gonna pump the trigger a few times to get a good vacuum going, see if I can force some fluid out when I crack it.
Holy schnitke Batman! Wow - BRILLIANT!!! That tip alone gets You into My HALL OF FAME Car/Truck Guys Who TOTALLY Changed My Way Of Thinking After Decades Of Not Thinking Outside Of The Box!!!
Loosen the Brake reservoir filler cap, gravity will move the fluid out from the bleeder nipple with much less air. Let the bubbles settle out along the clear tube. Air will always rise. No need for a pump. Don't let the reservoir get empty.
So loosen cap and bleeder valve?
Ingenious !!!.....only thing I could suggest about this idea would be to make hose long enough to reach the fluid reservoir to add fluid back into reservoir (front brakes only of course lol)
Holy crap, that was so easy.
I do all my repair work on vehicles myself and this is awesome 👌.
UA-cam has some great videos uploaded by smart people. This is excellent and can't wait to try it out soon when I change the rear calipers on my dad's car
Nice method to get the bulk of old fluid out of the system. I would suggest to
a) repeat this 2-3 times and put new brake fluid into the reservoir (before it runs low) to get fresh fluid into the caliper.
b) Additonally. Do the 2 man pedal pump/crack open method at least 2-3 times in the end to make sure no air made it into the caliper through the threads (as we can clearly see even with the grease theres a lot of air sucked in through the threads).
Thx for the post.... funny thing is I used a spray bottle from window cleaner in order to draw out the extra brake fluid from the resovour
I love those simple ideas. Here's one: Buy a standard bottle brush for kitchen glasses, rip off the handle, and tighten it in your cordless drill. Now you can brush out a lot of things quicker with the drill. I even got a small bottle brush for reaching into smaller openings. Enjoy :)
I use mine for my cars wheels and other small tedious things I need to clean. It saves so much time
Brilliant! I am about to do this to bleed my brakes and I noticed my wheels need a good cleaning. I'm going to use this brush idea if I can find out where I put my drill.
@@orchids3332 Thanks. I came up with that one all by myself. The next day I bought 8 brushes at the dollar store. I keep one in each bathroom, one at utility sink, two in the garage...
Here's another trick I learned. I had a truck with super scratched glass from sand laying in the track. I took 000 fine steel wool, attached it to a cordless drill, used soapy water.. and buffed the glass to a super fine shine.
You can also uset toilet brush for scrubbing bigger objects like wheels? Just break the handle's uneven part off and put the rest in the drill. I saw it on Smart fox YT channel.
I will enjoy, I'm over 50 so it's time to do things the easy way 😁😁
I was going to buy a $20 dollar brake bleeder kit that appears in a video on the right hand side of the screen from Harbor Freight. Thanks, you saved me $20.! Thumbs up and subscribed from Folsom California.
Awesome idea, I also took a 1/2 drill and used it to drill 1/2" hole in center of bottle cap, the spray nozzle fits snuggly, I ran a bead of permatex around the nozzle and cap to seal it, hot glue works well also, then with about two inches of fluid in bottle, for weight, u can use a rubber band to hold trigger compressed, with bottle standing and tubing running in smooth arc, the bottle with cap/nozzle/ rubber band, works well as a siphon to pull fluid thru the lines in a flush situation, so simply use beverage bottle, 1ltr coke I used, sealed cap/nozzle, pump til fluid comes in tubing, use rubber band, no loops, or sags in tubing, and u have a siphon, thanks for the start of a great idea
This is genious and super clean. I spent money on a special pump with a collection bottle in between the nipple and the pump. The bleeding affair was pure misery with break fluid ending up on the floor, my gloves and all over. Next time, I will use an old windex bottle. I do not know why I did not think of this myself. It is simply beautiful.
Great video, you are a very likable guy. This break bleeding technique is the smartest one I've seen 👍👏
By far the smartest
Its not just showing how to do it But also The best and cheapest solution to make it a 5 minute job for pretty much everyone above 12 years old
Irish ingenuity at it's finest! Thanks Gerry what a fantastic tip.
Excellent! Can't believe how simple and cheap that procedure is. Thanks for that Gerry. 😊
You know, it's only a very few times in life where something stops you and makes you think Genius! This is one.
That’s ingenious and a time saver. I’m doing my brakes right now
this is a new one ive learned from you gerry,, ive gotto do one this week as i have a calaper that has no compression left .,,have a nice summer.
I love this mechanic wow!I don't need no one to pump up the brake for i,you never too old to learn thanks for this idea boss
Now that's using your head for something besides a hat rack! Great idea! Thank you, Gerry!
Never underestimate the ingenuity of the Irish!
That's brilliant! Here is a tip someone taught me long ago. Put a pry bar between the brake pedal and seat. Move the seat forward enough to force the brake pedal to the halfway point. This will cause the piston in the master cylinder to block off the fluid ports. This will prevent the master from running dry during repairs, but keep in mind some cars can have their brake lights on even with the key off. So keep the battery charger in mind. Saves time during bleeding.
It works, very handy for changing brake calipers or flexible likes, only one or 2 drops of fluid comes out.
If you're opening the system, why would you not want to do a flush with fresh at the same time? If you're having to change a caliper or flex line, odds are the fluid is done too.
@@hydewhyte4364 I agree with you, but if you are replacing the fluid as well I think it's better to empty the reservoir from the top and then disconnecting the lines you need to change, note that there will be some drips before the lines empty completely. But In my case I did a complete bleed and flush before I changed the lines. So I used the technique mentioned and it works wonders. If you are replacing the fluid and some lines and you don't wanna take the risk of emptying the master cylinder or getting air trapped in it, you do the bleeding first and then the brake pedal technique after, when changing the lines. Some master cylinders can get the trapped air removed only by disconnecting the output line, specially in motorbikes, and I don't like this.
Jus take out the brake lights bulbs out and there won't be closed circuit to drain the battery.
@@igorpotocnik7231
.. or pull tue fuse!
This is real left field thinking..Brilliant. Better than pumping the brake which can damage the brake master cylinder seals on much older vehicles. Thanks mate most excellent !
Hey Gerry had a problem bleeding front brake on my Kawasaki vn1500, watched your video went out and tried your idea and straight away I had a front brake. Thanks bud keep the videos coming
Going to be doing brakes today. This is genius.. sealey one man brake bleeder kits have propably took a huge loss in sales recently thanks to this lol..
Great! I used a hand soap pump to drain the car oil via dipstick tube, slow but efficient!
Lots of "good idea" claims from folks, but once-in-a-while you hear a really "good idea". This was one! Thx!!! Going to use it on the Harley.
use a used shower gel pump. it doesn't squirt. just pump with more volume out. I made one and will try it out soon. shall post a video and the link if its successful.
Great idea mate,, you need to close bleeder while your pumpingand you won't have air entering.
My preferred method is a circular bleed, get a long piece of 5 or 6mm clear tube, put one end over nipple and the other back into the reservoir ( make a little hook of metal tube to hang there), then pump as hard as you like, gets lots of circulation. Then if your fluid is dirty, just fill the main with fresh fluid and catch the exiting fluid to throw away.
Nah that puts the bubbles back into your system !!!
Yeah this is too much dude that’s like self fellatio
not if the bottle is above your caliper@@bertiewooster3326
That is a slick way to save the fluid as well no mess
I use a Harbor Freight hand pump vacuum bleeder and experience the same bubbles. As Gerry explained it is harmless as it is on the outside of the brake caliper fluid chamber. I just work up a vacuum and let it pull out enough fluid to make me feel confident the reservoir in the caliper is bled. Using the squirt bottle system should work well as long as you keep pumping the trigger until the bleeder is closed.
What if you put a check valve in the line.
I find it easier to spray horizontally, if you point the nozzle downwards it has trouble to spray after a while. Just spray into bigger bottle which you hold at an angle bottom away from you.
Yeah they are designed that way, so the pickup tube is in the liquid I.e pick up straight down. When you get your ears tuned in ,you can hear the atomized air fluid v straight brake fluid just by the different sound and spray pattern.
That was AWESOME!! I've done a lot of brake work over the years and it's such a pain to bleed them by my self until now..
Except the old way builds my thigh and calf muscles each time I did it. :)
I just put the hose on the bleeder going up, then down into a can, crack the bleeder and wait for the fluid to drain out & bubbles to stop. Gravity does all the work. It takes longer, but you can smoke one cigarette at each wheel. Just don't forget to keep an eye on the master cylinder level!
@@aviography🚲 bicycling helps😊
Kudos, its a smart way to make sure there is no air bubbles in your caliper or near the end of the lines. But for a whole fluid replacement I would still have someone sitting in the car and pump the brake. Its way faster. Nice vid.
I didn't have the best results from this and I instead just got an 8 dollar self bleeder kit that I always use and it was WAY faster and more efficient but in an emergency situation this would work enough to get you back on the road.
Great tip tho.
Could you show me how this kit looks like? I m French and take some informations over my country. I did not find enough french content on UA-cam.
I was going to do complete brakes on my f150 and ordered a vacuum pump. Them saw this video. Genius idea! Thank you!
Brilliant idea. If its pulling fluid through, its pulling bubbles through that are in the system.
Bro just bled my son's go kart piston was stuck air in brake hose your technique worked 100 percent thanks I'm a pro lol
Great tip thanks i suggest you to remove master cilinder cap so the fluid will flow easier
I Just use a bottle and a piece of hose for brakes, but I am DEFINITELY going to try this next time I have to bleed a clutch master cylinder. Thanks for the great idea!
Brilliant ! Bloody easier than having to pump the pedal. 👍🏻
Sir with your method, it is getting easier to bleed the brakes... thank u sir.
Ya just helped me bleed my motorcyle brakes thank you and saved me 60 smackaroos. Subbed
Man, i just watch your video again because i want to say thank you !!!!!!!!!! I have Keeway and i change his master cilinder because i was unable to build pressure your trick with spray gun and grease worked without spending lot if new oil and time!!! Thank u
busy bleeding with my pick up mazda, i've just watched your video awesome may i try it thks
I tried this bleeding method, and this is the best bleeding so far. Thank you
Danke Gerry geniale Idee. Gruss aus der Schweiz!
I love simplicity that actually works; great job!!!
You can also use Elmers school glue in place of grease, just give it a few minutes to dry, later scrape off.
It’s always nice to do things and save a little cash especially you know you have to learn to be a one-man army thank you gerry
Thanks Stephen. This is easy to do and works great. 👍
I wish I had known this gadget when I was working on my wife’s car brake.... Great idea!!
Amazing. No words. Genius.
My jaw dropped at just how genius this is!
That's hysterically brilliant!!!
smart! the spray makes a vacuum and pulls the air out.
Top man Gerry you've definitely helped so many with this cheap effective quick fix, cheers mate.
This is a best tip I have ever see so far.
Taiwanese thanks to you.
I use synthetic grease on the threads if I get air bubbles while bleeding. Do not use thread tape. Also, if you open the bleeder too much, you will create air bubbles. It just needs a tiny turn.
why no teflon tape ?
@@DarkIzo you don’t want any of that tape getting into the fluid and plugging up the lines. Just use liquid teflon or pipe thread sealant.
I have no words to describe how much I'm surprised by your fabulous method mister. Thank you so much for sharing this great idea with us.
Thank you very much!!!! Smart simplicity is the best choice ever.
Nice, clean , precise way of bleeding calipers. Oh no spills
I did that method but for my slave cylinder when I fix my Honda Civic 1997 clutch. Very effective. Thanks for the video.
Great idea! Wish I would have thought of this before I went out and purchased a vacuum pump for bleeding my brakes. Very creative! 👍