I watched this video because it is over a half hour long and contains abundant specificity, something that lacks very badly in other people's tutorial videos. UA-camrs like you deserve praise. If this video were an hour long, I'd still watch it multiple times over for thorough reinforcement of knowing the process. We need more of this on youtube.
I was just going to swap out the fluid in my truck. Was looking at this pressure bleeder to do so. Defiantly going to get it. BTW... super detailed and if I had a high end car I'd 100% want a dude that like you that pays that much attention to detail and keeping the fluid off your car. Defiantly love that you want it done right without me coming back.
I am extremely happy that I discovered this video while in the process of researching Bleeder kits. Your video was clear and concise, Thank you, Semper Fi, USMC.
Great video. I did this on my Gen 5 Camaro SS this weekend and followed the process. It worked flawlessly. First time using a power bleeder and first time bleeding Brembo Calipers. This video was so helpful and gave me the confidence necessary to attempt it. By the way. For those of you doing this after a line lock installation, Do all four wheels in the order recommended in the GM manual. Got more air out of the rear calipers than I thought possible. Thanks so much for doing this video.
FYI: Ate stands for the Alfred Teves (Teh' vis) Company. I worked at a Mercedes-Benz repair shop and we referred to the brake parts simply as Teves to distinguish from Girling, etc. Great content.
glad this video was of good help follow the steps and you will not have any issues or mess with brake fluid dripping from the bleeder to the rim barrels damaging the paint.
Having done a lot of circuit racing, where I'm constantly changing out brake fluid for new fluid every race meet....Everything this gentlemen has explained in bleeding brembo's is absolutely spot on, including all his little tips. The big tip he mentioned ....sometimes you have to bleed the caliper multiple times to remove the air from the inboard to outboard crossover is also spot on. I also give the abs module a gentle tap as well. Very Very good video mate.
I am glad I found this video, I am about to bleed my truck after replacing the calipers, brakelines and hoses etc. I have a similar bleed tool that connects to a tire with a regulator (no, it doesn,t have a quick disconnect) - the tips with the hammer will come in handy
excellent video. I appreciate the time you take and extra tips. the video shooting is really clear and precise making it easy to understand how to do the job. Bravo!
This is awesome. I know the bleeding pattern from 1st through 4th is different for my STI hatch, but this was very informative. I will be doing this soon. Thanks! 😎
Great vid thank you!! Had new calipers installed at the dealer yesterday six piston in the front and four in the rear. They had my car from 10 AM to around five before the brake job was done!!!! I have a 2020 challenger scat pack so when I got into started as soon as I touched the pedal I knew something was wrong pedal did not feel the way it did and even after I started it it went almost to the floor!!! Went back in complain service manager checked it he didn’t seem anything was wrong and I explain to him that it’s not right I said I know my car. So I told him I’m going to drive it for the weekend but taking it back Monday morning until they fix it right. Stop by my buddies house he has a 2020 challenger also and had him take it for a ride and he said all American feels all right so he left he was going back out and then I was like three minutes later he called me up he said dude something wrong with your brakes I got back in my car and it is totally different!!!!!
Thank you so very much for sharing your expertise. Your attention to detail in explaining this procedure and willingness to demonstrate every step including how and why is unmatched anywhere by anybody. Might have messed up with my current project of removing all four calipers on my C8 to get them powder coated by getting air into the ABS controller. Time will tell when I get it put back together.
Auto Fanatic Question. I just had my Brembo Big brakes rebuild. When I re-installed the calipers, I did the exact same bleeding method as you in the video. When I was finished, I was able to push the brake pedal to the floor a couple of times. Some more pumps and the pedal was firm. My brake fluid in the master cilinder went from the MAX to the MIN line after that. Did I do something wrong? Did I have to pump the pedal after the first round of bleeding? Do I have to bleed them again? Thanks man. Appreciate the help.
You deserve more subscribers. Your attention to detail is excellent. I will be applying much of your expertise and techniques to my 2012 Boss. Please keep the videos coming.
Have you ever heard of putting a bit of grease on the bleeder valve to improve the seal between the bleeding hose and the valve? Or is that more of a mess/possible contamination source than it’s worth?
yeah or regular cars mechanics do this but never would i on nice brembo caliper or custom cars it makes a mess the trick is do not open the bleeder too much and have enough PSI on the bleeder device always on each wheel. Some guys use speedbleeders and they have a thread sealant on them already that works great but you gotta be careful as not all of them seat properly in the caliper and can lead to a huge headache.
Since you do all 4 corners 2x, do each corner 1x then repeat so that the fluid in the reservoir is certainly new the second time through on each corner.
Brilliant video as always. I was really hoping this was the customized GT350 Calibers nevertheless, I think the Gloss Black is a much better idea for contrast.
Charles Owens i got big $$ for calipers i did in my video, i think black will look best i never liked red on red on any car. red calipers look best with a contrasting exterior color. these R calipers will be off soon and for sale.
Got a link for the quick connect adapter? I did this yesterday - worked fine. A couple things I'd add: if you don't have the quick connect get nylon plumber's tape for the brass fittings that come with the motive in the link above or you like won't be able to maintain a steady psi. Also @ 15psi I had to open the nipple a lot to get a decent flow - especially to the rear. Also - you did mention toothpicks vs easy dabbers.. for anyone wondering - a regular wooden toothpick works just fine - save the $9 unless you just have to have the dabbers... but thanks for that tip - would've completely dripped brake fluid all over my CF wheels.
Good stuff. I have a 2020 gt pp1 and I plan on changing pads often for track days. I know the rear piston needs to be turned when being pushed in but I've heard guys say when you push the piston in you should crack the bleeder as you don't want to push brake fluid back through the abs system. Any truth to that?
WOW! Another extremely informative video. Thanks again for sharing your intensely disciplined knowledge of doing things right! Quick question, the jacking rails you installed on another video, do they fit on all Mustangs of 2016-2017 like the ecoboost or does it only fit the GT 350 and GT's?
Yes they do, if you want the longer ones you can use them to place jackstands on both ends, they are double the price but worth it, my car is too low so i had to go with the low profile versions.
Hey AF do you still have the videos on painting your brake calipers. I went back to check them out and a couple videos of the in between step are missing. Thanks!
Hi Mate, Good Job. I am learning a lot from your videos. Last week, I bleed brakes with a pressure bleeder and Vizibleed One man brake bleeder. I did a few mistakes and I am worried about air in the brake circuit. After I finish the work, I did notice hissing noise (near pedal) when I pump the brake pedal when car is off. Brake feel normal and Car is only 4 year old with 72k miles. Mistakes 1. After removing old fluid from the brake reservoir, did not add new brake fluid. Instead, I poured a full 1-litre fluid in pressure bleeder. 2. I did not pressurise the circuit enough. Skoda recommends bleeding brake at 2 bar pressure, whereas I did at 1 bar. 3. Passenger left nipple I opened too much and brake fluid leaked via the gap around the nipple. What could be the issue? is it normal to hear the noise? Do I need to bleed brake fluid completely and re-fill? Please advice. Thanks..
Thanks for posting this very helpful video. I have a questions and would appreciate your feedback. At the beginning of the procedure (after adding new brake fluid to the bleeder container and connecting the bleeder’s adapter cap to the car's master cylinder reservoir) there are several inches of trapped air in the plastic tubing between the bleeder container and the master cylinder reservoir that will get pushed into the master reservoir once the bleeder container is pressurized and the new brake fluid begins to flow. Doesn't that introduce a substantial amount of air into the brake lines?
Would you recommend this over a pneumatic brake bleeder? *edit: nvm, right before you started the first caliper you stated you prefer this oppose to the pneumatic bleeders due to having a fresh tube for a tight fit.
At the end of the flush it you depressurize the motive tank and lower it below the brake master cylinder reservoir wouldn’t it create a siphon and suck the extra brake fluid in the brake master cylinder reservoir back into the motive tank? Then no mess?
I think it was mentioned to add some new brake fluid to the catch can, is this correct? I have a 2020 GT so looks like I want the European fitting. Thank you.
Great videos you put out, incredible learning about how to do the work on my car and do it right! Not sure if you could answer this in a video comment, but I am upgrading the brakes on my base GT to the Brembo performance pack front brakes....I also need to replace the master cylinder with the one from the performance pack, as it has a bigger piston in order to be able to clamp the bigger calipers. Could you point me in the right direction to where I could learn what I need to do differently in order to do this job right with the additional step of replacing the master cylinder. Thanks much, I really appreciate the content you post.
I know this is an old video, but this a very in depth informative tutorial that deserves a like and a thumps up! 👍 One question, is there a specific size for the quick disconnect fitting that I need to buy?
Hi the quick disconnect I use i bought directly from the Motive Power Bleeder website they do not sell them from other vendors or Amazon best bet is to call them to order to make sure that is why I did. Good luck
Thank you for the video. I am going to do the brembo PP swap on my GT (non perf pack). I know they're mostly just for looks, but I like the way they look and I got a good deal on them. Are you on the DIY Detail facebook group? This car looks familiar
I use the K-member in the front too. I've used the factory location on the pinch weld once, and it folded over.... not good. They aren't strong enough side to side.
yep i destroyed my 67 fastback way back when i was a kid trying the front pinch weld. Now on all the classics i use the frame rail and torque box area. I have these nice rubber jack stand cleats that work awesome on the rear pinch weld they are a hard rubber and fit tight.
This is a fantastic video. Do you think I can use the same brake fluid you are using on my 2009 Hyundai elantra ? Thank you so much for all your hard work
Thanks for the video. I put the performance pack Brembo brakes on my 2016 GT yesterday, and followed this video, bleeding everything twice. When I first turn the car on, at idle, I can push the brake and if I push hard enough it will hit the stop. Driving seems normal and I did several stops with enough force to activate abs, all that seems fine. At a light, at idle, I can still push to the stop, though there is resistance and I have to keep pressure. I know the master cylinder and brake booster are different on the base gt, so could it just be the new feel and slightly weaker brake booster, or is it air? Thoughts?
I can't turn my bleeder screws as much as you do. If I turn it more than a very little bit, like few degrees, fluid starts coming from the threads. Is that normal or am I doing something wrong?
Great video as I am getting ready to flush factory fluid out of my Brembo System and plan to use a Motive Kit. I like the idea of the dabber, I've always rolled up a wipe to a fine point and put it in to absorb remaining fluid in the nipple because I'm just anal and don;t want it to attract dirt in grime inside there. Appreciate you taking the time and making a useful video. Just the right amount of detail and I'm thankful you don't have some lame 30-60 second intro wasting my time.
I purchased this power bleeder once, but had to return it because could not the cap to fit the hole of the master cylinder. I did want it to work since there seems to be no other way to do a perfect system bleed. What adapter should I get to fit the master cylinder of a 2012 Mustang GT? The one that the manufacture recommends is the one that does not fit (you showed it here in this video - the "GM" one that also fits Fords)
my car is new so no need but if your doing a major flush yes extract just a little not making the master cylinder ever go dry otherwise you will need to remove it and bench bleed and it can be a major PITA. What i like to do is use a different tinted fluid to make sure the system is flushed by going around to each caliper twice
Yessss! Finally the red calipers go on ! Gorgeous! Did you have to bleed them again or did the first attempt do the job .. Also I was thinking would a hose clamp "squeezer" placed on the brake line stop a lot of air from getting into the system when you swap calipers? U know the big yellow scissor looking clamp things people usually use in rad hoses to clamp them upon removal so they don't loose a lot of fluid . I've got them in smaller sizes and was thinking I could clamp the rubber break line ? I don't have my calipers yet .. I was hoping to get a set from you but I may just go the ford performance route to get it done asap .. Thanks for another great vid ! I will be using this on my install ! ... Best regards Justin J
bad idea on the OEM rubber hose your best bet is to buy a set done from me and send your originals back as a core, leaving the lines open is a bad idea unless you have a $3000 bleeder to flush the entire system at 50PSI. You do not want to go through this headache, FYI Ford charges over $400 to bleed this car out with that machine.
Great video. Appreciate the time you put into setting up the camera properly. Question I had. If I'm bleeding out the stock fluid to replace with race fluid, do I simply keep going till I notice the color difference in fluid? I have a 16' GT PP
@@autofanaticcars Following up, this video was super helpful, thank you again. I'm going to be changing out my clutch line from the plastic line to Fords stainless version. Any recommendations on procedure? LMR has a video, but if there is a better way to do it that would be helpful. Looks like a lot of pedal pumping vs using the Motive bleeder.
@@DonPatr0L You have probably already learned, but there's no bleeder for the clutch part of the system. Pumping seems to be the primary way to do it from what I've read/seen. Cheers.
Curious. I have seen others use the power bleeder for air pressure only and putting fluid in the brake fluid reservoir. Thus, no need mess at end, since no brake fluid in the power bleeder or lines or overfilled master cylinder. Figure biggest drawback to this method is having to check and refill master cylinder sporadically. But any other disadvantage to doing it that way?
I've heard of that too because people said the compressed fluid will have air bubbles suspended in it. I doubt that but... This is from over anal BMW owners.
Great video. What does this process do to the clutch fluid as they share the same reservoir? Are you effectively 'renewing' the clutch fluid as well? The service manual suggests brake/clutch fluid renewal every 2 years. Cheers.
Another way I've found that works well for clearing the brake fluid from the bleeder screw is to use compressed air with a nozzle on the line to blow the brake fluid out of the screws...of course you use a rag around the nozzle to catch the blown out fluid. Works very well. You bled from inside to out...any particular reason for that? Porsche recommends out to in always bleeding the screw farthest from the reservoir first. Just curious.
blowing out brake fluid with high PSI is a good way to spray your paint and ruin the finish on the car or wheels without even knowing it until its too late, no thank you my method here is safe and proven for high end show cars. every car has a different bleed sequence but this is how i do almost all cars even exotics. the key is you need 50 PSI at the reservoir to bypass the ABS spool valve otherwise your wasting your time bleeding or you need to unlock the ABS pump via OBD Scan tool.
I think you may have misunderstood what I was saying. Where you are using your pick to push the left over brake fluid out of the CLOSED bleeder screw I'm using compressed air with a rag wrapped around the the bleeder screw so that no brake fluid can go anywhere but onto the rag. None of it goes anywhere but on the rag. As to the rest of your statement about the ABS valve etc I don't know anything about that as I wasn't trying to do anything with that. Just a different way of doing the same thing.
What do you do with the remaining fluid in the Power Bleeder? Dispose? I'm assuming you can't pour it back in containers to reuse at a later date and have to throw it out.
After you bled the first caliper the first time and noticed it dropped to 11psi. Did you pump it back up to 14psi before doing it for the second time. Do u want to keep a consistent 14psi the whole time?
Wanted your advice. I have a 2020 PP2. By accident I left a hard line uncapped while replacing brake lines. The MC emptied out. I have the vaccine bleeder kit. I suspect that won’t do the job and a bench bleed would be necessary but wanted your advice. I suspect too this could be an issue for the abs system. UGH
You will need to bench bleed but make sure the master is perfectly level and do not side load piston using a screwdriver go slow, install then I would pressure bleed twice using the motive then check pedal feel
Gotta order it directly from the Motive site thats how i was able to get them its so worth getting i just used this system today on my Ferrari works perfect.
Two questions: 1) What about the E-Brake for the rears? I heard of pumping 5x in btwn bleeds. 2) I heard also that it may be as high as 30-50 psi per Ford shop manual? This was a spec for the Focus RS with Brembos.
Hi on my Motive i modified it with a higher PSI gauge to get to 50PSI easily for the newer cars ABS system, works perfectly. As for the Ebrake i am not aware of anything to do regarding bleeding since on these cars it is a mechanical internal drum E brake
you can but might make a mess when you unscrew the adaptor off the master cylinder. just have plenty of rags just in case and protect the cars painted surfaces.
Reviews of this tools point out that you can just *mostly* empty the master cylinder with a baster, fill with fresh fluid then use the Motive tool to pump air. Meaning not putting fluid into the Motive tool. @@autofanaticcars
it honestly would be a great idea to do all 4 just to ensure perfect bleed and pedal feel youd be surprised how quickly air can get into the system if you remove a caliper or line or master cylinder.
You've got me sold on a motive power bleeder! I'm ordering one today and bleeding my brakes on my 2011 GT. Do you know how this could be used for the clutch system since newer mustangs don't have a bleeder on the clutch?
@@autofanaticcarssweet that awesome to hear! Could you possibly do a video using the motive power bleeder to flush and bleed the clutch? I haven't seen anyone do a video even flushing the clutch on newer mustangs
Good video. Yesterday i did bleed my 2017 zl1, the old fluid was full of air, i flushed the system with new motul rbf660 fluid. But no matter what i did, every time i check each caliper on both bleeder bolts it still got some air inside it. I bleed all calipers 5 times and the air still inside. Any tips to solve this problem. ? Also do u think the air is trapped inside the abs module ?? Keep in mind i track my car twice a month Thanx
yes ABS module what you need to go is buy a higher PSI gauge for the Motive and pump to 50 PSI to bypass the spool valve, also make sure the bleeders are tight and the hose is tight on the nipple.
Could you have removed the cap from the master cylinder after depressurizing and let the fluid flow back into the motive power bleeder? Could be less mess. I'll be doing mine this weekend and you provided some insight and tips that I'll be using like displacing the fluid left in the bleeder. My Motive power bleeder is new and I see that it's recommended to dry-fit it first to make certain that are no leaks prior to adding fluid.
you could but ive done this so many times that when you flush the system with fresh fluid from the Motive it tends to overfill the master since the line is under pressure and it often leads to a mess when removing the cap and we suck some out when finished, clean up and job complete. Just take your time and go slow.
Motive sells them I have all adaptors in the shop the billet aluminum ones are worth the investment the plastic ones do warp and leak air over time FYI
Hey bother I got a question, I have completely taken off the caliper to take them to powder coded, however I let all of my brake lines bleed out, so I no longer have brake fluid in the car, when I go and put back the brake fluid do I still put it on the power bleeder or directly into the system since there is none so I won’t run dry? Please help
you will need to pull the master cylinder and bench bleed it very well before doing the system bleed otherwise you will have no pedal take your time and do not rush due to the safety aspect of the braking system. After you bench bleed the master, fill the Motive with 1-2 bottles and bleed the entire system at least 3 times since the calipers were rebuilt.
I watched this video because it is over a half hour long and contains abundant specificity, something that lacks very badly in other people's tutorial videos. UA-camrs like you deserve praise. If this video were an hour long, I'd still watch it multiple times over for thorough reinforcement of knowing the process. We need more of this on youtube.
thanks for watching and glad it helped you out thats what this channel is all about.
I'm back...again...and again, your content helps novices like me do it correctly the first time WITHOUT having to shell out to the dealer. Thank you!
Great to hear!
Thank you for being very thorough about the power bleeder and how to use it effectively.
glad this video helped you out.
I was just going to swap out the fluid in my truck. Was looking at this pressure bleeder to do so. Defiantly going to get it. BTW... super detailed and if I had a high end car I'd 100% want a dude that like you that pays that much attention to detail and keeping the fluid off your car. Defiantly love that you want it done right without me coming back.
well this has been a great help, did not know brembos had a different bleeding system
Your tips are gold. For a beginner like my self it guided me past the rookie pitfalls. Thank you
hi glad this video helped you out.
Love your videos and learn so much. After getting my 5.0 I'm all about doing things RIGHT.
thanks, that little tip on clearing out the bleeder excess is a godsend.
Yessir!
thank u soo much! I was worry about bleeding brakes solo. Now time to order tools and upgrade to brembo big brakes!
I am extremely happy that I discovered this video while in the process of researching Bleeder kits. Your video was clear and concise, Thank you, Semper Fi, USMC.
thanks for watching and glad this video helped
Wow. Best video I've seen on bleeding big brake kits with power bleeder.
thanks for watching and glad this helped you out
Great video. I did this on my Gen 5 Camaro SS this weekend and followed the process. It worked flawlessly. First time using a power bleeder and first time bleeding Brembo Calipers. This video was so helpful and gave me the confidence necessary to attempt it. By the way. For those of you doing this after a line lock installation, Do all four wheels in the order recommended in the GM manual. Got more air out of the rear calipers than I thought possible. Thanks so much for doing this video.
glad it helped and that little tip to clear out the bleeder is golden i just did my Ferrari last weekend using the same process
ABSOLUTELY SUPER JOB----BEST ON UA-cam!!!!
FYI: Ate stands for the Alfred Teves (Teh' vis) Company. I worked at a Mercedes-Benz repair shop and we referred to the brake parts simply as Teves to distinguish from Girling, etc. Great content.
Great vid - thank you for taking the time to make this 👍
Best video yet on pressure brake bleeding. Thanks. Now I go and do my 2018 Porsche 718 GTS...
glad this video was of good help follow the steps and you will not have any issues or mess with brake fluid dripping from the bleeder to the rim barrels damaging the paint.
Thank you for the video and tips to do the job right the first time! Keep it up.
Instablaster...
Great VID! 👍 Thank you.
Fantastic video!
Having done a lot of circuit racing, where I'm constantly changing out brake fluid for new fluid every race meet....Everything this gentlemen has explained in bleeding brembo's is absolutely spot on, including all his little tips. The big tip he mentioned ....sometimes you have to bleed the caliper multiple times to remove the air from the inboard to outboard crossover is also spot on. I also give the abs module a gentle tap as well. Very Very good video mate.
Thanks for watching
I am glad I found this video, I am about to bleed my truck after replacing the calipers, brakelines and hoses etc. I have a similar bleed tool that connects to a tire with a regulator (no, it doesn,t have a quick disconnect) - the tips with the hammer will come in handy
Sorry by the way that was an excellent video on brake bleeding. thank you for that. I'm buying a motive today.
Excellent vid, love the detail. Am going to attempt this on my brake system once I do caliper swap. Thx
Glad it helped
Thank you.
I would like to thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience. This video guided me perfectly. Dealer wanted too much money. Thank you Sir!
Thank you for a great break demo on bleeding process. Very informative. Giovanni Naples Fl.
thanks for watching glad this video was of help just take your time and you will have perfect brakes easily.
excellent video. I appreciate the time you take and extra tips. the video shooting is really clear and precise making it easy to understand how to do the job. Bravo!
Great video! Super thorough and good pace. Thanks for sharing!
Glad it was helpful!
Great video, thanks !!!
This is awesome. I know the bleeding pattern from 1st through 4th is different for my STI hatch, but this was very informative. I will be doing this soon. Thanks! 😎
thanks for watching and glad this can help you out
Jon Um What is the pattern on your STI?
Great vid thank you!!
Had new calipers installed at the dealer yesterday six piston in the front and four in the rear. They had my car from 10 AM to around five before the brake job was done!!!! I have a 2020 challenger scat pack so when I got into started as soon as I touched the pedal I knew something was wrong pedal did not feel the way it did and even after I started it it went almost to the floor!!! Went back in complain service manager checked it he didn’t seem anything was wrong and I explain to him that it’s not right I said I know my car. So I told him I’m going to drive it for the weekend but taking it back Monday morning until they fix it right. Stop by my buddies house he has a 2020 challenger also and had him take it for a ride and he said all American feels all right so he left he was going back out and then I was like three minutes later he called me up he said dude something wrong with your brakes I got back in my car and it is totally different!!!!!
Thank you so very much for sharing your expertise. Your attention to detail in explaining this procedure and willingness to demonstrate every step including how and why is unmatched anywhere by anybody. Might have messed up with my current project of removing all four calipers on my C8 to get them powder coated by getting air into the ABS controller. Time will tell when I get it put back together.
Glad it was helpful! Just be patient and take your time
@@autofanaticcarsThank you.
Great advice on using a dabber!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you so much for this very detailed video.
Glad it was helpful!
Auto Fanatic I’ll let you know in a couple of days. Just ordered the exact same bleeder.
Auto Fanatic Question. I just had my Brembo Big brakes rebuild. When I re-installed the calipers, I did the exact same bleeding method as you in the video. When I was finished, I was able to push the brake pedal to the floor a couple of times. Some more pumps and the pedal was firm. My brake fluid in the master cilinder went from the MAX to the MIN line after that. Did I do something wrong? Did I have to pump the pedal after the first round of bleeding? Do I have to bleed them again? Thanks man. Appreciate the help.
You deserve more subscribers. Your attention to detail is excellent. I will be applying much of your expertise and techniques to my 2012 Boss. Please keep the videos coming.
thanks glad this video helped
Have you ever heard of putting a bit of grease on the bleeder valve to improve the seal between the bleeding hose and the valve? Or is that more of a mess/possible contamination source than it’s worth?
yeah or regular cars mechanics do this but never would i on nice brembo caliper or custom cars it makes a mess the trick is do not open the bleeder too much and have enough PSI on the bleeder device always on each wheel. Some guys use speedbleeders and they have a thread sealant on them already that works great but you gotta be careful as not all of them seat properly in the caliper and can lead to a huge headache.
Thank you for the quick response and explanation.
Good stuff thanks for sharing your process.
Thanks for watching!
Since you do all 4 corners 2x, do each corner 1x then repeat so that the fluid in the reservoir is certainly new the second time through on each corner.
Great video
thanks for watching and hope you got some tips next time you need to do a full brake system bleed.
Brilliant video as always. I was really hoping this was the customized GT350 Calibers nevertheless, I think the Gloss Black is a much better idea for contrast.
Charles Owens i got big $$ for calipers i did in my video, i think black will look best i never liked red on red on any car. red calipers look best with a contrasting exterior color. these R calipers will be off soon and for sale.
Got a link for the quick connect adapter? I did this yesterday - worked fine. A couple things I'd add: if you don't have the quick connect get nylon plumber's tape for the brass fittings that come with the motive in the link above or you like won't be able to maintain a steady psi. Also @ 15psi I had to open the nipple a lot to get a decent flow - especially to the rear. Also - you did mention toothpicks vs easy dabbers.. for anyone wondering - a regular wooden toothpick works just fine - save the $9 unless you just have to have the dabbers... but thanks for that tip - would've completely dripped brake fluid all over my CF wheels.
Good job 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
You can also spray the bleeders with electronic spray cleaner to get any leftover fluid
Can you please add a video of how to drain, flush and refill cooling system fluid on the Mustang next?
Greatly appreciate it! Thank you.
For living in NY that car flawless
thank you i take good care of all the rides.
Excellent video
Thank you very much!
Good stuff. I have a 2020 gt pp1 and I plan on changing pads often for track days. I know the rear piston needs to be turned when being pushed in but I've heard guys say when you push the piston in you should crack the bleeder as you don't want to push brake fluid back through the abs system. Any truth to that?
WOW! Another extremely informative video. Thanks again for sharing your intensely disciplined knowledge of doing things right!
Quick question, the jacking rails you installed on another video, do they fit on all Mustangs of 2016-2017 like the ecoboost or does it only fit the GT 350 and GT's?
Yes they do, if you want the longer ones you can use them to place jackstands on both ends, they are double the price but worth it, my car is too low so i had to go with the low profile versions.
Wouldn't this pressure bleeder go a long way toward fixing your problem even if your master cylinder goes dry?
So if I'm changing out front calipers, what's the proper bleeding procedure for the system?
Hey AF do you still have the videos on painting your brake calipers. I went back to check them out and a couple videos of the in between step are missing. Thanks!
Do you use just a standard ‘brass quick disconnect ‘ that you can get from a hardware store?
Hi Mate,
Good Job. I am learning a lot from your videos.
Last week, I bleed brakes with a pressure bleeder and Vizibleed One man brake bleeder. I did a few mistakes and I am worried about air in the brake circuit. After I finish the work, I did notice hissing noise (near pedal) when I pump the brake pedal when car is off. Brake feel normal and Car is only 4 year old with 72k miles.
Mistakes
1. After removing old fluid from the brake reservoir, did not add new brake fluid. Instead, I poured a full 1-litre fluid in pressure bleeder.
2. I did not pressurise the circuit enough. Skoda recommends bleeding brake at 2 bar pressure, whereas I did at 1 bar.
3. Passenger left nipple I opened too much and brake fluid leaked via the gap around the nipple.
What could be the issue? is it normal to hear the noise? Do I need to bleed brake fluid completely and re-fill?
Please advice.
Thanks..
Thanks for posting this very helpful video. I have a questions and would appreciate your feedback. At the beginning of the procedure (after adding new brake fluid to the bleeder container and connecting the bleeder’s adapter cap to the car's master cylinder reservoir) there are several inches of trapped air in the plastic tubing between the bleeder container and the master cylinder reservoir that will get pushed into the master reservoir once the bleeder container is pressurized and the new brake fluid begins to flow. Doesn't that introduce a substantial amount of air into the brake lines?
Once agin an excellent video
Glad you enjoyed it
Would you recommend this over a pneumatic brake bleeder?
*edit: nvm, right before you started the first caliper you stated you prefer this oppose to the pneumatic bleeders due to having a fresh tube for a tight fit.
At the end of the flush it you depressurize the motive tank and lower it below the brake master cylinder reservoir wouldn’t it create a siphon and suck the extra brake fluid in the brake master cylinder reservoir back into the motive tank? Then no mess?
Where did you get the quick connects for the motive bleeder hose? I have the same bleeder and love it but a quick connect would help.
I think it was mentioned to add some new brake fluid to the catch can, is this correct?
I have a 2020 GT so looks like I want the European fitting. Thank you.
I just bought this kit for flushing my brakes. I must have missed when you mentioned it....
How much fluid did you need to flush all 4 brake calipers?
Great videos you put out, incredible learning about how to do the work on my car and do it right! Not sure if you could answer this in a video comment, but I am upgrading the brakes on my base GT to the Brembo performance pack front brakes....I also need to replace the master cylinder with the one from the performance pack, as it has a bigger piston in order to be able to clamp the bigger calipers. Could you point me in the right direction to where I could learn what I need to do differently in order to do this job right with the additional step of replacing the master cylinder.
Thanks much, I really appreciate the content you post.
thanks for watching
I know this is an old video, but this a very in depth informative tutorial that deserves a like and a thumps up! 👍 One question, is there a specific size for the quick disconnect fitting that I need to buy?
Hi the quick disconnect I use i bought directly from the Motive Power Bleeder website they do not sell them from other vendors or Amazon best bet is to call them to order to make sure that is why I did. Good luck
Thank you for the video. I am going to do the brembo PP swap on my GT (non perf pack). I know they're mostly just for looks, but I like the way they look and I got a good deal on them. Are you on the DIY Detail facebook group? This car looks familiar
What type of quick disconnects are those. Just standard air compressor disconnects?
I did my mercedesbenz and a don't now what happen the just started with a lot smoke , the bolts need. A special torque to close-up ?
Awesome video. If I am just changing my front calipers, do I need to also bleed the rear calipers ?
Did you get a response?
I use the K-member in the front too.
I've used the factory location on the pinch weld once, and it folded over.... not good.
They aren't strong enough side to side.
yep i destroyed my 67 fastback way back when i was a kid trying the front pinch weld. Now on all the classics i use the frame rail and torque box area. I have these nice rubber jack stand cleats that work awesome on the rear pinch weld they are a hard rubber and fit tight.
What if you don’t have e light new fluid to flush each caliper more than once??
Do they have an adapter for a 2006 Honda Pilot?
This is a fantastic video. Do you think I can use the same brake fluid you are using on my 2009 Hyundai elantra ? Thank you so much for all your hard work
Yes you can!
Thanks for the video. I put the performance pack Brembo brakes on my 2016 GT yesterday, and followed this video, bleeding everything twice. When I first turn the car on, at idle, I can push the brake and if I push hard enough it will hit the stop. Driving seems normal and I did several stops with enough force to activate abs, all that seems fine. At a light, at idle, I can still push to the stop, though there is resistance and I have to keep pressure. I know the master cylinder and brake booster are different on the base gt, so could it just be the new feel and slightly weaker brake booster, or is it air? Thoughts?
svtcobra66 master cylinder bore and power booster must be changed
I can't turn my bleeder screws as much as you do. If I turn it more than a very little bit, like few degrees, fluid starts coming from the threads. Is that normal or am I doing something wrong?
Nice Video. How do you tell you have completey flushed out all old fluid if it is not discolored? Thanks
You can buy red and blue brake fluid. Switch between the two colors each time.
Great video as I am getting ready to flush factory fluid out of my Brembo System and plan to use a Motive Kit. I like the idea of the dabber, I've always rolled up a wipe to a fine point and put it in to absorb remaining fluid in the nipple because I'm just anal and don;t want it to attract dirt in grime inside there. Appreciate you taking the time and making a useful video. Just the right amount of detail and I'm thankful you don't have some lame 30-60 second intro wasting my time.
glad this video will help you out
I purchased this power bleeder once, but had to return it because could not the cap to fit the hole of the master cylinder. I did want it to work since there seems to be no other way to do a perfect system bleed. What adapter should I get to fit the master cylinder of a 2012 Mustang GT? The one that the manufacture recommends is the one that does not fit (you showed it here in this video - the "GM" one that also fits Fords)
you need the one in the link above it is the european style cap, get the billet one like i used
Do you need to extract the fluid in the master cylinder first? Or do you just push through the old fluid during the bleed process via the calipers?
my car is new so no need but if your doing a major flush yes extract just a little not making the master cylinder ever go dry otherwise you will need to remove it and bench bleed and it can be a major PITA. What i like to do is use a different tinted fluid to make sure the system is flushed by going around to each caliper twice
Yessss! Finally the red calipers go on ! Gorgeous!
Did you have to bleed them again or did the first attempt do the job ..
Also I was thinking would a hose clamp "squeezer" placed on the brake line stop a lot of air from getting into the system when you swap calipers?
U know the big yellow scissor looking clamp things people usually use in rad hoses to clamp them upon removal so they don't loose a lot of fluid . I've got them in smaller sizes and was thinking I could clamp the rubber break line ?
I don't have my calipers yet .. I was hoping to get a set from you but I may just go the ford performance route to get it done asap ..
Thanks for another great vid !
I will be using this on my install ! ...
Best regards Justin J
Curious as well on what to use to "clamp" brake lines while calipers are off the car getting painted or rebuilt
Justin i have a few sets of calipers in production one set is not spoken for yet we can talk direct on that.
bad idea on the OEM rubber hose your best bet is to buy a set done from me and send your originals back as a core, leaving the lines open is a bad idea unless you have a $3000 bleeder to flush the entire system at 50PSI. You do not want to go through this headache, FYI Ford charges over $400 to bleed this car out with that machine.
So best bet is to do what with the OEM brake lines while they caliper is off the car?
Great video. Appreciate the time you put into setting up the camera properly.
Question I had. If I'm bleeding out the stock fluid to replace with race fluid, do I simply keep going till I notice the color difference in fluid? I have a 16' GT PP
Full transparency. First brake bleed for me, but definitely capable of doing this work.
use an amber or red brake fluid and until you see fresh color from the bleeding tube at each caliper thats how you fully flush the system.
@@autofanaticcars Following up, this video was super helpful, thank you again. I'm going to be changing out my clutch line from the plastic line to Fords stainless version. Any recommendations on procedure? LMR has a video, but if there is a better way to do it that would be helpful. Looks like a lot of pedal pumping vs using the Motive bleeder.
@@DonPatr0L You have probably already learned, but there's no bleeder for the clutch part of the system. Pumping seems to be the primary way to do it from what I've read/seen. Cheers.
if you flush each caliper more than 1 dont you waste some new brake fluid?
Would this work for the Mach 1 too (2023)?
Curious. I have seen others use the power bleeder for air pressure only and putting fluid in the brake fluid reservoir. Thus, no need mess at end, since no brake fluid in the power bleeder or lines or overfilled master cylinder. Figure biggest drawback to this method is having to check and refill master cylinder sporadically. But any other disadvantage to doing it that way?
I've heard of that too because people said the compressed fluid will have air bubbles suspended in it. I doubt that but... This is from over anal BMW owners.
Great video.
What does this process do to the clutch fluid as they share the same reservoir? Are you effectively 'renewing' the clutch fluid as well?
The service manual suggests brake/clutch fluid renewal every 2 years.
Cheers.
Another way I've found that works well for clearing the brake fluid from the bleeder screw is to use compressed air with a nozzle on the line to blow the brake fluid out of the screws...of course you use a rag around the nozzle to catch the blown out fluid. Works very well. You bled from inside to out...any particular reason for that? Porsche recommends out to in always bleeding the screw farthest from the reservoir first. Just curious.
blowing out brake fluid with high PSI is a good way to spray your paint and ruin the finish on the car or wheels without even knowing it until its too late, no thank you my method here is safe and proven for high end show cars. every car has a different bleed sequence but this is how i do almost all cars even exotics. the key is you need 50 PSI at the reservoir to bypass the ABS spool valve otherwise your wasting your time bleeding or you need to unlock the ABS pump via OBD Scan tool.
I think you may have misunderstood what I was saying. Where you are using your pick to push the left over brake fluid out of the CLOSED bleeder screw I'm using compressed air with a rag wrapped around the the bleeder screw so that no brake fluid can go anywhere but onto the rag. None of it goes anywhere but on the rag. As to the rest of your statement about the ABS valve etc I don't know anything about that as I wasn't trying to do anything with that. Just a different way of doing the same thing.
What do you do with the remaining fluid in the Power Bleeder? Dispose? I'm assuming you can't pour it back in containers to reuse at a later date and have to throw it out.
I pour into an old container and recycle at the local AutoZone
After you bled the first caliper the first time and noticed it dropped to 11psi. Did you pump it back up to 14psi before doing it for the second time. Do u want to keep a consistent 14psi the whole time?
Yes always keep psi stable during each bleed screw
Wanted your advice. I have a 2020 PP2. By accident I left a hard line uncapped while replacing brake lines. The MC emptied out. I have the vaccine bleeder kit. I suspect that won’t do the job and a bench bleed would be necessary but wanted your advice. I suspect too this could be an issue for the abs system. UGH
You will need to bench bleed but make sure the master is perfectly level and do not side load piston using a screwdriver go slow, install then I would pressure bleed twice using the motive then check pedal feel
Does this fit a 2015 mustang gt the items u have in your description or do I need to buy an adapter for the reservoir cap
Yes they use the same style cap and master cylinder
where can i find the quick connect disconnect adapter for my version of the motive power bleeder? I have one but it shipped with regular connections.
Gotta order it directly from the Motive site thats how i was able to get them its so worth getting i just used this system today on my Ferrari works perfect.
if for some reason the master cylinder went dry previously but you power bleed the system does that mean u dont have to bench bleed master cylinder?
never let the master go dry you will need to remove it and bench bleed it carefully without side loading the piston then preassure bleed the system
Thanks for content! . I might have missed it, but what adapter did you use
check description above, you need the billet one not the plastic ones.
Two questions: 1) What about the E-Brake for the rears? I heard of pumping 5x in btwn bleeds. 2) I heard also that it may be as high as 30-50 psi per Ford shop manual? This was a spec for the Focus RS with Brembos.
Hi on my Motive i modified it with a higher PSI gauge to get to 50PSI easily for the newer cars ABS system, works perfectly. As for the Ebrake i am not aware of anything to do regarding bleeding since on these cars it is a mechanical internal drum E brake
@@autofanaticcars Thx...used at what pressure?
Can I fill some new fluid into the reservoir to max level before pumping the tool?
you can but might make a mess when you unscrew the adaptor off the master cylinder. just have plenty of rags just in case and protect the cars painted surfaces.
Reviews of this tools point out that you can just *mostly* empty the master cylinder with a baster, fill with fresh fluid then use the Motive tool to pump air. Meaning not putting fluid into the Motive tool. @@autofanaticcars
If I'm only upgrading my front calipers, is it necessary to bleed all four corners? Thanks
it honestly would be a great idea to do all 4 just to ensure perfect bleed and pedal feel youd be surprised how quickly air can get into the system if you remove a caliper or line or master cylinder.
Is there a torque spec for the bleeders? I thought that over tightening was a huge issue for these aluminum caliper.
comes from feel, tight enough not to leak otherwise you can damage the conical seat of the caliper.
If I just upgraded the front calipers on my GT to the PP Brembos would I still bleed all 4 calipers?
i would
You've got me sold on a motive power bleeder! I'm ordering one today and bleeding my brakes on my 2011 GT. Do you know how this could be used for the clutch system since newer mustangs don't have a bleeder on the clutch?
yes it can also be used for the clutch i use it all the time works awesome no more pumping the pedal
@@autofanaticcarssweet that awesome to hear! Could you possibly do a video using the motive power bleeder to flush and bleed the clutch? I haven't seen anyone do a video even flushing the clutch on newer mustangs
Good video.
Yesterday i did bleed my 2017 zl1, the old fluid was full of air, i flushed the system with new motul rbf660 fluid.
But no matter what i did, every time i check each caliper on both bleeder bolts it still got some air inside it. I bleed all calipers 5 times and the air still inside. Any tips to solve this problem. ?
Also do u think the air is trapped inside the abs module ??
Keep in mind i track my car twice a month
Thanx
yes ABS module what you need to go is buy a higher PSI gauge for the Motive and pump to 50 PSI to bypass the spool valve, also make sure the bleeders are tight and the hose is tight on the nipple.
@@autofanaticcars thanx for the answer bro. Gonna try this soon. But do u think the pump, fittings and hoses will withstand such pressure !
Could you have removed the cap from the master cylinder after depressurizing and let the fluid flow back into the motive power bleeder? Could be less mess. I'll be doing mine this weekend and you provided some insight and tips that I'll be using like displacing the fluid left in the bleeder. My Motive power bleeder is new and I see that it's recommended to dry-fit it first to make certain that are no leaks prior to adding fluid.
you could but ive done this so many times that when you flush the system with fresh fluid from the Motive it tends to overfill the master since the line is under pressure and it often leads to a mess when removing the cap and we suck some out when finished, clean up and job complete. Just take your time and go slow.
@@autofanaticcars thank you. Best tip for me is to go slow. I tend to rush and make a bit of a mess.
AF, can I use this same procedure on my Challenger's 6 piston Brembo's ? It should be the same, just not sure of the master cylinder.
yes you can just make sure you get the proper adaptor for the master cylinder, get the billet one not the plastic one
Thanks AF!!
Where did you get the brake booster adapter , heard you said you used it on a 458
Motive sells them I have all adaptors in the shop the billet aluminum ones are worth the investment the plastic ones do warp and leak air over time FYI
Hey bother I got a question, I have completely taken off the caliper to take them to powder coded, however I let all of my brake lines bleed out, so I no longer have brake fluid in the car, when I go and put back the brake fluid do I still put it on the power bleeder or directly into the system since there is none so I won’t run dry?
Please help
you will need to pull the master cylinder and bench bleed it very well before doing the system bleed otherwise you will have no pedal take your time and do not rush due to the safety aspect of the braking system. After you bench bleed the master, fill the Motive with 1-2 bottles and bleed the entire system at least 3 times since the calipers were rebuilt.
Auto Fanatic thank you so much
Do you have a link to the quick disconnects you used please?
Motive sells on their site thats how i got them
Does this product work on a Lincoln LS and Chevrolet Silverado?
yes you just need to order the proper adaptor for your master cylinder