HOW TO - echo cs-590 chainsaw carburetor replacement wont shut off warm racing rpm fix
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- Опубліковано 30 жов 2018
- this video i replace the carb in an echo cs 590 im doing so per request of echo to solve a problem of a saw not shutting off when warm and unstable rpm also when warm
Thank you for making this video. Mine started doing this about a month after buying it. I took it back to Complete Repair Service in Tumwater Washington where it was purchased from and was treated like a child and told that there was nothing wrong with my saw. I will never deal with them again
It's a very hard symptom for a shop to replicate
Thank you so much I am having the exact same issue with my 590 and now I know what to do. I will definitely sub and leave a like. I am very happy rn
Thanks for the straight forward run down!
Do you have a video rebuilding the carburator on that specific saw?
Mine is doing same thing reving high when warm. And bogging out a bit when i give it throttle. Cs590
Great video ...
Thanks! I like your selection of vintage toys,comics,and games on EBay
Good video 👍. I have a cs 590 on the way. I am going to try to hold up a while on the muffler mod and carb limiters removal. What are your thoughts on these mods
Remove the limiters and richen the carb right out a the box. I personally dont see the benefits of muffler mods I have a dual port muffler on my personal saw and the difference is minimal in my opinion if you need more power you need a bigger saw. But that's just an opinion. Only way to see real power gains is a full professional port job on intake,exhaust,transfers, etc....
Do you know how far out I should turn each carb screw from seated on a carb thay has had the limiters removed? To get it started. I bought one from craigs list. It ran great for a little bit now wont start.
1 turn out from seated on both is factory settings
@@Coakleyfixedit207
Please some help, i have the saw 3 years, no use now start and rev 1 second and shut off,
Do you think is the carburetor or the screws , rebuild kit is not available anywhere , and new cab 103$,
I forgot to run the gas out
@@kratos9174 first thing I'd do is check the fuel line for cracks and make sure the new fuel is as fresh as possible, if the saw was never adjusted from new you'll wanna turn both adjustments out 1/4 turn and try that
@@kratos9174 what make and model is the saw?
@@Coakleyfixedit207 thank you.
Great video. It looks like a lot of saw dust got by the filter. I wonder it some dust or trash got into the carb and caused the issue? Thanks again for the video
I was told by echo that the issue is with ethanol etching the jets and passages inside the carb, the dirt ingestion will cause other issues like to much carbon buildup in the motor etc..
Ryan's Knives and Repair ahh, I know it’s expensive however I have been using true fuel from Lowe’s. No more than I use it.. lol
I only run the canned premixed fuel though I run the echo red armor because i get it through the shop at cost so it's a good deal
"diesel/runaway issue" -- WOW it's kinda crazy to hear this was Echo-acknowledged, it's OF COURSE to be expected (thanks Echo-USA!!) but as an owner of the 590, 355t and recently ~6mo ago a 2511t my newest / favoritest saw, anyways my 590/355t NEVER had an issue, my 2511t however I have to toggle On/Off/On to make it stop, simply putting it to Off will rarely stop the unit if it's warmed-up already (IE in-tree after a proper cut, you cannot stop it w/ 1 stroke of On switch, you're better-off throwing the Choke lever for fast engine-kill, blows my mind sometimes I will make a cut and switch it Off and just sit there marvelling at how it could possibly continue Idling, had thought maybe muff mod/basic crap like that "made it hotter" and was a runaway-idle but never looked into it (upon consideration though, a runaway idle would basically be knock and/or pre-ignition, and should only be able to occur from WOT and not continue too-long, whereas I could let my 2511t just sit there idling w/ the switch on Off, gotta slide that switch back&forth to actually stop it OR just throw the Choke lever 1X ;P )
(FWIW I should mention I only found your video because I'm fighting my 590, it went through battle w/ some bigger Oaks and I had to replace starter spring & tensioner bolt, those went fine & I'd also cleaned my air filter- saw was running as-expected for clogged filter but I never altered the carb- after cleaning air filter, had to fight the thing to get it to idle and even then it won't go to WOT it just falls on its face and dies-off, am now feeling that the choke-lever itself is being wonky so am taking-apart the carb box & linkage to verify all is tight&proper and had never been in that area before so figured to just watch some videos.....and hear a runaway-idle is a known quantity from the old 590's, yet *I* only know of it from my new (most-recent generation) climbsaw the 2511t, which is the most 1-handable unit known....am now thinking to go post to the forums & see if other climbers w/ 2511's have seen this because on a lil climbsaw not having bulletproof on/off, **from-manufacture**, would be ghastly of course.....always figured my unit MUST be purely anomalous, not some 1-in-50 or in-200 unit....)
The issue with your 2511 sounds to me like the spade terminal on the coil is loose if it is just squeeze it a whisker to make it tighter, your 590 sounds lean try removing your limiters in the carb and turning the screws out like a 1/8th or 1/4 turn.
Having issues turning mine on! Brand new outta box crankrd an ran it for 30mins. Did some cutting left it out and it got rained out for about 30mins I got it out of rain asap. And now won't start.
when you go to start it pull choke and push little button on top , when you pull as soon as you hear it try to start push the choke back in and starting pulling again , they can flood if dont, oh and make sure the metal switch is flipped up ez to forgot to flip it and it not start .
Is there any problem with running the saw without adjusting the carb when new?
it will eventually start getting "boggy" as it breaks in, than will have to be richened up so the adjustment is eventually unavoidable
I just took this saw apart last night, fought the backing plate that covers the carb for like 30 minutes. Yours falls right into place
I bought mine new. It worked great first couple times, now every time I run it, it runs good for 30 minutes then it will start revving high when idling. Also, kill switch won’t work either. When I do get it to shut off, it’s hard to start back up because when I get it on and idling I go to give it throttle and it bogs down and dies.
What’s the issue? Is it same problem as yours? What do I need to do? What parts do I need? And where can I get them? Thanks, man!
The place you bought it should take care of the switch they have a 5 year warranty, I would say most likely it just needs to be richened up they come adjusted lean from the factory to hit epa emissions. If it idles high turn the low screw out a 1/4 to half turn. You may have to remove the red caps to do it
@@Coakleyfixedit207 Thanks for that advice. I didn’t buy the saw from a official vendor so no warranty. Also, what do you mean by runaway rpm’s? Is that when you aren’t holding the throttle but the chain is till going at a moderate speed? That’s what this saw does and keeps doing even when the kill switch is in the off position.
What is that carburetor’s part number and where did you get it/order it from?
Is there another carb that will fit this thing? Walbro carbs are very expensive, unreliable, and hard to fix.
A cs620p carb will bolt right on but it won't be any cheaper, so unfortunately no as far as I know there is no aftermarket option
How does the carb cause dieseling
From a technical standpoint I have no clue, it shouldn't be possible but according to echo it is.
So what exactly was wrong with the carb? Mine just started this today
Echo told us that it's a defect in a certain range of manufactured carbs, new saws supposedly shouldn't see this issue....supposedly
What was that part number
A021001661
Surprised you tightened the carb screws with the electric screwdriver. It is easy to over-torque the screws. I prefer the hand feel, though it is a bit slower.
I'm extremely used to my impact and the echo saws the bolts thread into metal (most of the time). I wouldn't suggest it to someone who doesnt use the same gun 8 hours a day everyday though
This just happthen to my saw and it's the same model as urs
Cree que puedas en español la explicación
Que nesesitas saber, si te puedo ayudar
You didn't even show how to take the caps out couldn't even see it
Pry em out it ain't rocketry