It's a good rule of thumb when using a pipe wrench to get a three point contact bite on the pipe with your pipe wrench. Just a good habit to get into. Love the video. Keep them coming
In my youth I thought "all she'll go and a quarter turn more" was the proper torque value. I did that on a pipe fitting for a propane line and caused a hair line crack in the fitting that didn't show up with bubble test. Strong gas smell in the basement next day. Called propane co. Tech said I was lucky the house didn't blow up.
For a tapered thread, since they are different amnd people use different compounds/tape, a general rule of thumb is to go 1 and 1/4 turns after hand right. Have to be careful if you have something going into aluminum cast (like steel pipe into a heater control valve).
I'm glad you didn't mentipn pressure testing, as I only have one job to do, and don't want to buy what it takes to do that. I helped my Dad do gas pipe work 65 years ago, and he never pressure tested. He used soapy water, and final tested with a match. None of his renral houses ever blew up. 😊
Yes. Tight is tight. Broke is to tight lol. Pipe threads are tapered so the more you tighten the bigger they get. My whole career I’ve only ever seen it done by feel. Never heard of a wrench that can measure the torque applied. Would be neat if there was such a tool like auto mechanics have in the torque wrench. Thanks for watching
There is such a thing as an adjustable torque wrench, but it's pricey. My Dad did it by feel. I have one job to do,so that's how I'll do it also. Then tests with bubbles, ekectronic tester, then grill lighter (ultimate test). 😊
hey Tony, Nice video. I have a quick question. A plumber came look at my house to check out a natural gas pipe fitting. He saw grey color sealant and instantly said this is epoxy since it is dry and kept nodding his head and said it is not good. Epoxy should not be used on any gas pipe fitting. My question if you can help me is - does this grey color sealant has to be epoxy because it is dried? I looked up and found information on gas sealant dont contain PTFE will indeed dried. I just thought it was strange when a plumber automatically assume the sealant is epoxy just because it is in grey color and dried. Just do not want to be taking for a ride. Please adivse. Thank you.
Hard for me to say without seeing it. Grey colored sealants do exist. So yeah who knows. Any exposed sealant will eventually harden that does not make it an epoxy. Now with that said I’ve seen some weird stuff. My own grandfather told me once that he used old paint he had left over to seal threads on galvanized pipes. He was not a plumber but very resourceful and I always respected that. Thanks for watching.
If you have black pipe running under your food truck straight from tanks without a regulator but use a regulator on each piece of equipment does this bring back the safety issues?
Now if we could get HVAC contractors to stop using "thread protectors" as couplings on black iron pipe, that would be swell. I found three of them (one was leaking) after I had gas run to my new boiler. They are straight thread (not NPT) and even with loads of dope, they tend to leak. I had them come back, cut them out and replace with unions.
I have a question, if you’re removing a section of pipe or a flex pipe and one of the pipes you don’t want to remove loosens a little. Can you just tighten up the one that moved a little and just tighten it? Or do you have to remove the pipe that moved a little and re-tape and dope it to reinstall!
Generally the rule would be to take it apart and reseal and reassemble. However it may be ok but certainly should be leak tested no matter what. In the future always use a wrench or channel locks to hold back on the pipe you do not want to move while removing the one you do.
@@masterflowplumbing9812 Thank You! Yeah I assumed it was tight to begin with and didn’t think about adding the wrench 🤦♂️🤦♂️. If It tightens a little bit and no leaks. It should be leak free for a long time?
How about tightening a leaky copper flare fitting? I have a leak at a flare junction that is connecting two copper pipes. Can I try to snug it with two crescent wrenches since each fitting can accept a wrench Or is it a rule of thumb to just redo a new flare fitting?
You can always try to tighten it a bit more. You could also use a good pipe dope like “ the green stuff”. Put som on both flared surfaces and then re tighten.
@@masterflowplumbing9812 OTOH it doesn't cost enough to matter and (thoughtful) overkill never hurts especially with the poor machining so common these days.
I'm going to disagree on the claim that you can't tighten them all at the same time, of course you need to visually verify that they are all turning in as you tighten. Also if you tighten a distant fitting further in, so much the better it was too loose anyway. Never had a fitting start leaking from getting tightened "by accident," in fact have gone out on many calls where all that was needed was to tighten a fitting because some lazy bones in the past did not get it tight enough.
Fittings are alot easier to tighten further down the pipe. Ive tighened 1 1/2 tee till it was tight put a 3ft nipple on there and all the sudden it could wiggle back and forth hasnt leaked since.
He didn’t say you “can’t”, he showed how he does it. And you cannot argue that there’s no way to know for sure each fitting is tightening by an equal amount when doing it all together. Doing them separately will undoubtedly tell you exactly how much torque you applied to that specific fitting before moving on, no doubt about it.
@@jordancook1668 Torque applied is equal between all fittings from the wrench to the one that changes direction. It is true that you may not know exactly how many threads each one took up just turning from the end, you would have to use your eyes and brain to determine that.
Kinda a funny thing. Metal things rust when they get wet. Plumbing tools get wet so they rust if you don’t time to maintain them. I’m usually very busy so sometimes I don’t maintain. Got any other questions ?
It's a good rule of thumb when using a pipe wrench to get a three point contact bite on the pipe with your pipe wrench. Just a good habit to get into. Love the video. Keep them coming
Thanks for watching
In my youth I thought "all she'll go and a quarter turn more" was the proper torque value. I did that on a pipe fitting for a propane line and caused a hair line crack in the fitting that didn't show up with bubble test. Strong gas smell in the basement next day. Called propane co. Tech said I was lucky the house didn't blow up.
Thanks for watching
Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks for watching
Great vid, thanks for sharing your knowledge to us diy peons...
It’s why we do this. Thanks for watching we really appreciate it.
love your channel bro, im just starting trade school for plumbing , this helps a lot, you explained everything so good , i got it instantly
Awesome. Thanks for watching. Tell a friend or two
For a tapered thread, since they are different amnd people use different compounds/tape, a general rule of thumb is to go 1 and 1/4 turns after hand right. Have to be careful if you have something going into aluminum cast (like steel pipe into a heater control valve).
Thanks for watching
I'm glad you didn't mentipn pressure testing, as I only have one job to do, and don't want to buy what it takes to do that. I helped my Dad do gas pipe work 65 years ago, and he never pressure tested. He used soapy water, and final tested with a match. None of his renral houses ever blew up. 😊
Thanks for watching
Afterr hand tighening the connection, an additional 1-1/4" turn, with tools is needed.
Thanks for watching
No bubbles, no troubles!!!
That’s right
no flame no blame
love doing black iron but takes a toll on your body after a while
Oh yes it does
Are there actual recommended torque settings for black gas pipe?
Yes. Tight is tight. Broke is to tight lol. Pipe threads are tapered so the more you tighten the bigger they get. My whole career I’ve only ever seen it done by feel. Never heard of a wrench that can measure the torque applied. Would be neat if there was such a tool like auto mechanics have in the torque wrench. Thanks for watching
There is such a thing as an adjustable torque wrench, but it's pricey. My Dad did it by feel. I have one job to do,so that's how I'll do it also. Then tests with bubbles, ekectronic tester, then grill lighter (ultimate test). 😊
hey Tony, Nice video. I have a quick question. A plumber came look at my house to check out a natural gas pipe fitting. He saw grey color sealant and instantly said this is epoxy since it is dry and kept nodding his head and said it is not good. Epoxy should not be used on any gas pipe fitting. My question if you can help me is - does this grey color sealant has to be epoxy because it is dried? I looked up and found information on gas sealant dont contain PTFE will indeed dried. I just thought it was strange when a plumber automatically assume the sealant is epoxy just because it is in grey color and dried. Just do not want to be taking for a ride. Please adivse. Thank you.
Hard for me to say without seeing it. Grey colored sealants do exist. So yeah who knows. Any exposed sealant will eventually harden that does not make it an epoxy. Now with that said I’ve seen some weird stuff. My own grandfather told me once that he used old paint he had left over to seal threads on galvanized pipes. He was not a plumber but very resourceful and I always respected that. Thanks for watching.
If you have black pipe running under your food truck straight from tanks without a regulator but use a regulator on each piece of equipment does this bring back the safety issues?
I’d have no idea. Never built a food truck. Natural gas and propane are very different. I’m assuming your using propane
Now if we could get HVAC contractors to stop using "thread protectors" as couplings on black iron pipe, that would be swell. I found three of them (one was leaking) after I had gas run to my new boiler. They are straight thread (not NPT) and even with loads of dope, they tend to leak. I had them come back, cut them out and replace with unions.
Wait what ? Those aren’t couplings? lol. Just kidding. Thanks for watching
I have a question, if you’re removing a section of pipe or a flex pipe and one of the pipes you don’t want to remove loosens a little. Can you just tighten up the one that moved a little and just tighten it? Or do you have to remove the pipe that moved a little and re-tape and dope it to reinstall!
Generally the rule would be to take it apart and reseal and reassemble. However it may be ok but certainly should be leak tested no matter what. In the future always use a wrench or channel locks to hold back on the pipe you do not want to move while removing the one you do.
@@masterflowplumbing9812
Thank You! Yeah I assumed it was tight to begin with and didn’t think about adding the wrench 🤦♂️🤦♂️.
If It tightens a little bit and no leaks. It should be leak free for a long time?
If it test leak free it certainly should stay that way
Tony, what's the reasoning behind 2:15 not snugging them both at the same time, you didn't explain ?
You can get a false tight if you try to do both at the same time.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge
Great video 👍🏻
Thanks for watching
How about tightening a leaky copper flare fitting?
I have a leak at a flare junction that is connecting two copper pipes.
Can I try to snug it with two crescent wrenches since each fitting can accept a wrench
Or is it a rule of thumb to just redo a new flare fitting?
You can always try to tighten it a bit more. You could also use a good pipe dope like “ the green stuff”. Put som on both flared surfaces and then re tighten.
Excellent video!
Thank you and thanks for watching
Tape and pipe dope always. Save yourself some from leaks.
Typically you don’t need both for gas piping
@@masterflowplumbing9812 OTOH it doesn't cost enough to matter and (thoughtful) overkill never hurts especially with the poor machining so common these days.
@@obfuscated3090which do you apply first? Tape or dope?
Nice video
Thanks bill. I know you do nice work yourself
@4:44 Lol...* straight face *
You like that. Thanks for watching
Thank you for the video 🇿🇼
Our pleasure!
I'm going to disagree on the claim that you can't tighten them all at the same time, of course you need to visually verify that they are all turning in as you tighten. Also if you tighten a distant fitting further in, so much the better it was too loose anyway. Never had a fitting start leaking from getting tightened "by accident," in fact have gone out on many calls where all that was needed was to tighten a fitting because some lazy bones in the past did not get it tight enough.
I. NEver claimed my way is the only way.
Fittings are alot easier to tighten further down the pipe. Ive tighened 1 1/2 tee till it was tight put a 3ft nipple on there and all the sudden it could wiggle back and forth hasnt leaked since.
He didn’t say you “can’t”, he showed how he does it. And you cannot argue that there’s no way to know for sure each fitting is tightening by an equal amount when doing it all together. Doing them separately will undoubtedly tell you exactly how much torque you applied to that specific fitting before moving on, no doubt about it.
@@jordancook1668 Torque applied is equal between all fittings from the wrench to the one that changes direction. It is true that you may not know exactly how many threads each one took up just turning from the end, you would have to use your eyes and brain to determine that.
Great info
Thanks for watching.
Thanks
Thanks for watching
Thanks for watching
its called a cgi. combustible gas indicator
Thanks
❤❤❤
Thanks for watching
Electronic leak detector is cheap
I’ve seen many get it wrong.
If you use it all the time, why is your pipe wrench so rusty?
Kinda a funny thing. Metal things rust when they get wet. Plumbing tools get wet so they rust if you don’t time to maintain them. I’m usually very busy so sometimes I don’t maintain. Got any other questions ?