In Los Angeles, it is against code to use Teflon tape on gas joints, you are only supposed to use dope. It is to prevent chunks of Teflon from getting in the pipe and reaching gas fixtures, and blocking the small orifices on them, like pilot lights. Is Teflon code where you work?
When I was a teen and had just started helping my dad on sites he said to check for gas leaks smoke a cigarette. I asked him how does that work. He said If you live you did a good job 😁 I miss that old man.
This is a man who truly loves what he does. He’s out here working when he really doesn’t have to, but he does to show us up and coming young guys how to do things the right way. Thank you for your videos sir.
Yeah don't use tape on joints. Most states it's against code to use tape. Dope only and if.your worried about a joint use wicking. The moisture from the dope will make it swell and seal up the joint.
I love how you're always talking about how important it is to turn the water off, no matter what, then go and do a live gas line replacement like this.
It may look and sound strange, but there's only about a 1/4 lb of pressure going through a residential main like this. JUST MAKE SURE NO ONE IS SMOKING LOL.
@@morphman86 You only get CO poisoning from poorly burning gas. While you can do what he did since the pressure is around 7 inches wc or barely over 1/4 psi, it's better to just have the gas company come out and turn it off properly.
@@tcolondovich2996 Oh, sorry, I didn't know hydroCARBON gas didn't contain CARBON that would bind with OXYGEN when exposed to OXYGEN-rich air... Silly of me.
Those meters wouldn't be legal here, they must be at the side of the house.. Thats just plain nuts having them out by the roadway especially without big concrete filled protection rails..
I'm more interested in the fact someone hit that already. No one thought to put protection around it and also how long was that pipe line live and leaking before it got "Fixed" lol
Surprised the home owner did not install protection, independently of what a bunch of bureoucrats think people should do, and why Mr. Wakefield agreed to do the job without also putting in protection!
@@LPJMagicmusic I did not blame anybody, but it is also true that Mr. Wakefield did not address the evident lack of safety of the meter in this video, regardless to what the local authorities mandate in their jurisdiction.
@@AlessioSangalli he may not have addressed it to us but you have no idea whether he talked to the customer about it or not. My guess is It's not the plumbers job to install barriers, it's a plumbing channel so he doesn't need to tell you something obvious that you very intelligently noticed.
I spent my first 7 years as an adult working as an industrial tech in the fishing industry, one of the things I was shoehorned into as a young guy was plumbing and I don't even know how many miles of pipe I laid across the 4 plants I worked in, but it's nice to see someone else who does dope and tape for things like this. We were trained to do that for all gas lines, whether the gas was air, a combustible, or steam, and I can't think of any lines that I worked on that developed leaks (and with the relationships I have with my old chiefs, they would give me a lot of grief if they had to redo my work. 5 years out of the industry and I still get updates on projects I worked on) Please note, I am not a plumber. Welder, boiler tech, fabricator, and mechanic yes to some degree, but plumbing was just one of the jobs I got put on a lot between production runs to keep me on payroll. Keep up the good work Roger! I found you recently and have been directing customers who are struggling with plumbing to your channel!
About 6 years ago, I was chasing a bunch of tiny leaks in 100 year old gas pipes. I called Oatey up, they recommended Hercules dope with kevlar fibers instead of their own name brand. At that time, I think they had recently purchased Hercules, so not quite like recommending their competitor. The kevlar makes the dope stiff, definitely does not flow like other dope. I ran taps and dies on the old threads to removed all the old dried junk before reassembly. I tested the old system at 100 psi for 3 days, no leaks.
The amount of respect I have for you not just doing it to spec but doing it so It doesn’t leak again (you don’t have to do it again) is amazing, Love the content
It's refreshing to see someone who takes pride in their work for once. Going so far as to wipe the extra pipe dope off... I don't think I've ever seen that.
Plumbers that teach me would get mad and say that’s way too much. Just enough to cover where you plan on sinking the threads. It’s predictable enough and super clean. Just how I was taught. 🤷♂️
I have worked in offshore and onshore oil and gas industry. Offshore Teflon tape is prohibited for certain systems due to its uncanny ability to send little shards into the subsea directional control valves. Onshore, the pipe work is made up with hdpe tape (the blue stuff) and no pipe dope. Torque used is TAF...usually a roughneck with a cheater pipe on a 4ft pipe wrench. Never had issues.
I love your videos! Im not a plumber, but im learning a lot! My favorite tool is the M18 Fuel deep cut Portable Bandsaw! I've been building fences for over a decade, and this tool can handle a lot of what the portacable corded bandsaw can. For volume, a battery will always fall short of what a corded tool can accomplish, but cut for cut, it always does a great job!! Its spectacular for small jobs, with less than an hour of consecutive cutting. More than that, i just use another battery. If i had to give up every fence tool I own, the tool I would trade my left foot to keep, would be my milwaukee bandsaw. It cuts anything I imagine a plumber would need to cut, if you've got the space to do it!! I've cut aluminum, stainless, galvanized steel, carbon, hardened steel, copper, pvc, plastic, wood 4x4s, and a block of 2" by 2" solid square stock. Just don't cut rusty stuff. That eats up the blade. The tool doesn't care, but the blades do. Highly recommend, 20/10 stars.
Find the tape measure...go look for the pencil...where's the damn drill...I know I got the impact gun out earlier...Fitbit thinks I'm walking marathons.
If you want your dies to stay sharp on that threader, you need to back up a quarter turn every full rotation to break the chipping from the cutter threads. This is common when threading almost any hard material.
I've gone to plenty of callbacks on leaks where plumbers didn't use both teflon tape and pipe dope. I've also worked on gas lines on the fly. Good work!
Key point “always back up your fittings with another pipe wrench before fully tightening your pipe so that the prior fitting or pipe does not spin on you causing a leak.
As a machinist I'd like to point out to people who may not know that the smoke that's coming up while you were cutting the threads is normal; cutting threads into metal generates a lot of heat, and the cutting oil is exactly that, *oil,* so it burns when heated.
I don't think it's age, but rather the way Roger explains things. He knows his things and explains them well, without overselling (or underselling) his craft. That is what makes these videos compelling (at least to me).
Pro-tip: i use pipe thread sealant on pipe threads, then teflon tape. this leaves your fingers clean, and the pipe dope enters the joint as you tighten the fitting through the tape: Love the vids roger!
Gas company here requires an accessible tee on the outlet to “hot tank” the house line to work on the meter set. And certainly meter protection is a must.
I have many memories (and shoulder aches) from carrying and using an ancient ridgid 700 threader. Outside of the weight of it, seeing the new shiny threads on galvanized or black pipe was always satisfying. Enjoyed the ride-along! Keep up the good work!
I am an IT Network Administrator. Why am I watching your videos non-stop? Glad I found your channel. Oh, and that is a bad-ass watch you wear. What is it?
With small size pipes it may work fine, but from my experience on a job with 3 inch galvanize pipe I got leaks in almost every fitting and had to do it again with paste only.
Hey Roger, its Shaun again. We've had a comment conversation before over another of your videos. Im a plumber and licenced gasfitter here in Saskatchewan, Canada. Again, great video. Its crazy to see the differences in gas code from place to place. Here in Saskatchewan, you'll never see a meter hung like that. Our meters are either mounted to the house , or we have what we call trailer stands, which, if a meter cannot be bolted to a fixed-foundation house, are used. They sit at about 4' above ground. Few other things, we aren't allowed the use of galvanized piping for anything in plumbing, other than rural waterlines. Everything i do gets painted grey, or yellow in a commercial application. A lot of cheap guys in town here just leave the black Iron to rust, which looks like absolute garbage. We have to have riser sleeves around any gas riser coming out of the ground, with 14gauge tracer wire, and 4-elbow, 10" center to center swing joints. Its crazy for me to see that piping out of the ground with no swing joint! As for the "teflon" and dope....i was trained with just dope. My journeyman was old school and it wasn't until I was doing a 12 unit condo building in my third year of apprenticeship that I requested "teflon". Our tape for gas is yellow and its a PTFE thread tape. But yeah, tape the threads and then dope. Doesn't matter if it's gas or water. Always tape then dope. Its a different feel than just dope. Last thing to harass ya about is the m18 threader. It only became available last year and ive been toying with notion of purchasing one. I've always lugged around my ridgid 300, and I have an auto-oiler at my shop. The only hand threader that I have is the ratchet style hand lever, which has been good for taking out on location for small works. Im going to assume that youd recommend it? Haha
Thanks again Shaun. Around here this is the normal. There are a million things that I think should be done in all of plumbing but if I did all of them and nobody else was I would be going out of business. I started using tape and dope when one of the smartest engineers I ever met told me that was the way he wanted it done. You're right, I really like the M18. I've used the 300 for a long time and the ratchet threaders have been in my vans forever. BTW, We quit using galvanized for waterlines many years ago.
When we have Gas risers in Canada, we require a minimum of 4 90's on the riser to create a swing joint so if the ground has a frost heave it dosent break the line.
@@joea5183 Sure, but earth movement can still occur can it not? I've also seen a gas line get backed into and not break because of a swing joint. I was more so curious about his local code.
The water line into my house broke when I tried to replace the shutoff valve (26-year-old double-wide trailer that had been empty for 7 years) and I tried to thread the galvanized pipe coming out of the ground. My brother-in-law has a manual threader that worked okay, but I would have LOVED to have that tool. It probably wouldn't have split the line down into the ground and broke the pipe off at the elbow if I had. On the other hand, even though I had to dig up that whole section and replace it, at least I know it's got a brand new line all the way from the PVC water supply from the meter. I'm slowly replacing all the Poly water lines in the house with PEX. I need to get a tool that crimps rings with 1 hand. I just don't trust Sharkbites. I'll use them if it's in a place where I just can't get my crimping tool but, to me, I'd rather save the money and put a little more effort into the connections. I've seen the tests with pressurized water and I know the pressure fittings work fine, but I guess I'm just too old school (and too cheap).
We do liquid and high pressure vapor propane piping. Yes, we always use tape and dope. We're mostly using Sch. 80 A53 grade B with SA105N forged steel fittings. The TRC is real specific on some of the points in NFPA 58.
Fast Christ that was A 5 minute job. Wrapping 7 times with Teflon completely covered the threads plus some pipe. Got oil all over the cement. I would have ripped my guys a new one threading with nothing under to catch oil. Should tell home owner a bollard needs to be installed to protect meter from being hit by cars
DYI here. Nice to watch the pros at work. Chatter about opening the gas pipe under pressure--I watched the gas company guy replace the regulator at my folks house--they needed larger service for a spa heater and a new gas stove. And part of that job was replacing the valve on the service side of the regulator. indeed there was a moment where the gas just flowed--but only a moment, because he too had everything lined up and ready to go. I seem to remember this clever little rig that plugged the service pipe with a expandable stopper that, unexpanded, could be pushed through the open valve, and a rod that came up through the bleed valve? Sorry, this was years ago, I don't quite remember how it all worked. One thing I do remember, brought to mind by all the rust visible here, was a couple of coats of that gray anti-corrosion paint you can see on the meter. Did the riser going to the pool heater eventually get painted? Finally: I remember once slipping a section of PVC over a gas riser (house side of the regulator, valve off) to protect the riser from weed-cutter line, which had over the years eaten almost all the way through the riser (that was why I was replacing it). Is there a reason why you didn't do that here? Was I wrong to have done it? (Yeah, looking back, should have called a pro for that job. But I was a young and foolish know it all, and I at least read up pretty thoroughly on working with gas, so I wasn't working blind. Harris County, TX, jurisdiction.)
I work for a gas utility company in the northeast . It blows my mind that gas meters are in the front yard... ours is in the basement or on side of house .
I really like watching this channel. I worked in Ma as a plumber. He did a decent job. Comparing how I was taught, you ALWAYS use two wrenches. 3 wraps with the tape start at pipe then to end. Don’t over tighten them. They tapered like a pencil and it can expand and crack the fitting reason for two wrenches. Never loosen a fitting, it could break the seal of the tape and dope. If you do, in do it and reapply tape and dope. I never saw you test with bubbles. I’ll give half credit for not having an oil pan or opening the box more because you got down and wiped up the oil 👍🏻👍🏻. **first time I’ve ever saw any differences in any videos I’ve seen so far** Still a great plumber.
In New Jersey Teflon tape is not allowed on gas piping unless it is the yellow tape That's rated for gas. If it was hit by a car it also requires a pressure test and inspection. So that you can check if line underneath ground is damaged in any way
@@jamesallen3739 Blue Monster "Gas Guard" yellow tape is the only Blue Monster tape approved as per International Fuel and Gas Code.. But I guess local jurisdictions have final say.....
@@guitar1301 , you are correct, even though the Blue Monster blue tape can meet the standards for gas, once it's installed we have no idea. That is why Yellow Tape is required by the National Fuel Gas Code and The American Gas Association. Local codes maybe more stringent and strict but in no way can they weaken The National Fuel Gas Code.
Roger, nice video but I'd like to go over some of the shortcomings I noticed, just to give the plumbers and pipefitters out there a perspective from the gas utility side and the National Fuel Gas Code. My name is Bob Yehlen and I've been a first responder /gas fitter for the gas utility in St Louis, Missouri for 35 years. I am presently retired but still consult for the gas industry from time to time when incidents occur throughout the country ( incidents like the over pressurized gas mains in Massachusetts, the mall gas explosion in Florida & ect.). So now let's go over the things I noticed on this particular video. #1 before making a repair to any fuel run let's determine if the original installation was up to past and present codes ( is the fuel run sized properly? What is the total gas load, house and pool heater? This particular meter set has a b-42 regulator and a 275 CFH (275,000 BTUs) gas meter on inchs delivery. So if the total load is over 275,000 BTUs, the gas utility should be contacted for a gas meter upgrade) #2 the pool heater fuel run came off the gas company pressure tap tee ( the gas company uses this tee to determine lock up and working gas pressures; this is not a tee for your pool heater fuel run), that being said you may use it as long as another tee is added. This is done very simply by replacing one of your elbow at the meter set with a tee & plug ( now a tap is available for the gas company to take pressures and you can also pressure test your underground fuel run using the same pressure tap tee, just by hooking up your manometer, turn the valve on and back off, now you have a pressure test going). #3 jumping a live fuel run is very old school & is no longer acceptable by the National Fuel Gas Code & the AGA ( American Gas Association). The proper procedure would be to turn the gas off at the meter, install your required fittings for the job and pressure test the complete system. I know it seems like a waste of time and opening you up to much more repairs if problems are indicated on the other fuel runs but that is what's required in this day and age ( believe me, there are a lot of law firms out there hoping you don't pressure test and bypass required procedures).#4 a ground joint union is not acceptable for underground fuel runs and risers ( only insulated unions are acceptable for underground fuel runs and risers, this is required for cathodic protection). #5 all underground fuel runs should have a trace wire or a means to locate the underground installation. Since this is a repair & the original installation had no means of locating the line, this should be noted on your receipt and your records. I hope some of this information was helpful. I know some of you will say that my local municipality or state does not require this,but these are the National Fuel Gas Codes, states and municipalities can enhance and make codes more stringent but in no way are they allowed to weaken or reduce the National Fuel Gas Code. You all stay safe out there and have a good day .
Hey Roger. I am a nyc plumber and I was taught to never use Teflon tap on gas. In fact. It is not allowed by NYC code. Honestly I don’t know why that is. But I love using my ridgid 700 pony with the ridgid support arm to hold back the threader and the same vise. But I like that Milwaukee makes a battery operated threader. No more extension chords
I’m sort of a mix between the first and the last. If I need to put one fitting on a live gas line, I’ll do it without shutting off the gas. However I don’t bother trying to cover up the pipe or anything like that. I just get everything ready then screw the piece out and put the other one in. If some gas goes into the air, oh well.
I hope there is NEVER anything gonna happen if you leave on the gas line, Cause no insurance will pay... I mean why would you rather turn it off most of the time there is no one at home. I think to be safe is more important than not need to turn off the gas.
Cillers badass if you know what you’re doing there’s no risk. It’s not as big of a deal nowadays with all the electronic ignitions. However at one time, if you turned the gas off it cost you an hour or more to relight all the pilots in the house. Therefore if you had to make one connection it saved the customer to work on it without killing the gas.
How do you pressure test the new joints for leaks without turning off the gass or isn't pressure testing an installation a requirement in Texas? Also "it's okay 'cause I don't smoke" seems a rather deceptive statement with cars driving by at a few feet from the open pipe. I must be missing something here.
It’s nice with domestic fittings, pipe make up is always the same as long as dies are set correctly an threading length are the same, good job Roger!!!
I though that as well. I think the only reason he was doing it that way is he was by himself and trying to catch the oil in the rag. I guess it’s fine if you don’t mind replacing teeth once a year.
What do I think....how to say this without coming off weird ... A.) I could watch you work all day. I love how you work. You already had every step planned and ready. Then did the job flawlessly. B.) I wish you were my boss. I swear dude....there needs to be more ppl like you in this world. No bullshit or else....but ready to teach and show in the kindest, most patient way. C.) I wish you had been my dad lol. Your personality is so much like the coolest dad ever. Patient. Kind. I've never heard you cuss .... Doubt you yell very often. Bet you've never hit someone because you had lost your temper. Bro. Keep being you. I wish there was more folks like you. God bless.
Roger , try the pipe treading lube that Ridgid sells. It comes in a spray can and it works great without the mess you get from cutting oil. Our threads come out beautiful with it.
Being a pipefitter/welder here at TI i use that same process on gas and then i switch to true blue or SWAK on water . gotta make a repair on the new house im buying but its not at the meter its on the side of the house going from the ground into the house. good job and very informative.
I had to plumb a whole Factory which was stainless steel piping and fittings and you learn real quick that you put your pipe dope on your threads first and then put your tape over top and then tighten down and you have no leaks and it's clean
The company I work for we do a lot of commercial pipefitting including stainless work and they do the exact same thing. However, we utilize other materials in aspects of pipefitting and I believe the process you described is only correct for stainless work otherwise, teflon tape should be applied (correctly) first THEN pipe dope. But hey everywhere is so crazy and different as long as it had pressure or doesn't leak isn't that all that matters
I like your vids, I am a sprinkler fitter of 35 years , But i'm always learning something, we as sprinkler fitters always use the dope first then cover with teflon tape, But that is only because we are laying out one hundred heads, 3 - 4 piece heads or more for the T.I. of the high rise floor that we are currently working on, But the teflon tape before the dope or paste does work better especially on bigger pipe diameters. just my 10 cents worth. Thanks, keep the vids coming.
I had a water heater installed by a plumber who used pipe dope and teflon tape. This was the first time I had heard of that but I've been using that method since and never had a leak 👍👍👍👍👍
I work maintenance in a factory but 50% of my job is pretty much working with piping. My favorite Milwaukee tool I've used so far is their m18 PVC Pipe shear. I think it can cut up to 1.25" pipe, but most of our chiller lines to our machines are 3/4 schedule 80. It makes it super fast and always a clean cut. I have yet to have it bust apart a pipe instead of cutting it.
I was mowing a big 4 acre field one time.. was hired by a dude and all he said was “i want it bailed for the horses.. the stuff was weeds galore about 4 foot tall:. Right smack im the middle of the field was a damn gas line check with the 2 foor pipe that sticks outta the ground that says no smoking.. well i ran that thing over. Got lucky and didnt blow my ass off but i didnt even noticezc i thought it was like a rock or possum or something until i go to roll the bail off and see the white pole in the bail... so i drove up to ole buddy and told him to call the gas company and i just left. Never talked to him again.. lol
@@alexpuffinburger9015 the dialogue must've been. Well cars reasonabley wont be on a road! that's why we have roads right? its not like anyone's ever going to be regularly driving down a road!
Please don’t add much pipe dope to the beginning threads, you’d be surprised how many gas valves get clogged from pipe dope and had to be replaced 🤦🏽♂️
@@chrisd3399 ... I do a LOT of generator work and you'd be amazed at how often I find pipe dope in the works within the gen set when it doesn't start on the first try after an install. I won't say it's often but once a year (in my 25 years) is often enough to know where to place the blame. In cases where I needed to check pressure on an older install and there was no test fitting I have used the sediment leg, where I also run into some goo balls left over from the original installation. Just saying it's more common that you think, even if they never actually cause a problem.
Yes! Always use pipe dope and teflon! I like to put the pipe dope before the teflon because it looks alot cleaner and wont get all over your fingers, but to each is own
Seems like a massive safely hazzard to have an exposed gas mains next to a road with 0 protection around it, hell put a crappy picket fence around it at least!
his surroundings are clear, im sure if there was any cause of danger he would know of it, considering he is properly certified and has decades of experience like working for texas instruments. it was open for literally .5 seconds
Another great job... Rodger, I also use Teflon tape and pipe dope together on pcvp female threat fittings to connect male brass threads on shower valves... I only go hand tight, but never had a leak doing it that way... Thank you again,,,,
Another trick to use is putting Molly paste on the threads and faces of the union. This helps with the seal, and ease of breaking the union apart in the future.
I never use any tape on any gas line connection and actually illegal in my state. For a number of reasons number one why I don’t use it is because while threading steel pipe your dies teeth wear down... gotta replace them. Instead of replacing them let’s add tap. Fresh cut pipe threads should screw to the female end idk 2 turns if even. With new pipe die. A lot of mechanical contractors when it comes to gas lines they use a lot of tape ... to rebuild the thread up for there blown out die...
@@spencerhanson3112 untill it rusts out and leaks yeahh just hope no smoker walks past as it does and hope for no sparks when it rusts out or they'll have a bad explosive time 😅
Seems to me codes are lacking down in Texas. In New Jersey teflon tape is not permitted on gas pipe & all exterior gas piping must be painted with rust proof paint not to mention pressure tested
Awesome repair! As for the machining oil so you don't spill so much like I saw in this video cause I know you like to keep things clean get yourself like an olive oil dispenser or even an old oil dispenser you can easily direct the oil where it's needed and don't need to drip all over the ground idk if this helps but it definitely makes for less of a mess
I'll agree, Teflon tape and dope is splendid for water connections. But I was always told to avoid tape for gas as it has the potential to flake off and cause a restriction in a burner orifice or gas valve.
I work for the largest utility in the USA. We use pipe dope only, but you have to use the right pipe dope. It’s not yellow dope, it’s not blue dope, it’s green key tite dope. Never hardens. Always seals. Ps, you stole the utilities usable tee, now they cannot hot tank the meter to work on it. The tee above the right side of the meter must stay open with a plug. Then the utility can probe the meter and Keep the service hot without interrupting service
I love hearing these little tricks of the trade like the pipe dope and Teflon, never seen that before and my cousin is a plumber. Really good job btw, now just need some protection from passing cars.
Love their M18 impacts, the 3/8, 1/2 impact wrenches and 1/4 impact driver. Working on cars they're pretty nice, their reciprocating saw is pretty good too.
I use the dope/tape combo on any threaded connections so far as water lines are concerned. But on gas lines most codes don't allow Teflon to be used as a sealant, even the dope is required to be non-ptfe. Another thing I'll mention for anyone watching that's considering adopting the practice, be careful you don't Crack your fittings! Especially these brittle "lead free" brass parts.
This is how I was taught. You drive any fitting down much easier and more efficient with dope lubed teflon setup. Usually i just use dope only good for LP gas and drive it down. All depends on city code. They both work good. Even better together
M18 Fuel Hackzall M18 Fuel Hammer Drill and the M18 Fuel Impact Driver I love these. They've made my plumbing jobs go so much more easily and boosted my productivity.
In the old days before Teflon tape and other stuff. The one item we used on gas pipe in the plant told to me by the old timers and we used and never had a leak was ; permatex no 2 form a gasket. It’s totally resistant to petroleum products, never hardens. It works great , never had a problem.
Back when I made the switch from doing electrical work to plumbing (I know big change😂) I wish I would have had someone like you to teach me instead of the assholes that were sending me on wild goose chases. You have taught me a lot in your videos keep em comin man
I don't feel so bad now about the pipe thread/pipe dope method, thanks! I've had folks snicker at me for "overdoing it". When it comes to gas, I don't take any chances.
Journeyman I’m working under told me from the get-go to always use Teflon and pipe dope and the client will be happy due to no callbacks for leaks. Since then, we’ve always had happy clients.
Wondering if some sort of protection barrier needs to be installed to prevent future car strikes. I know for heating oil tanks were cars can hit it there is a requirement to sink posts or some other solid barrier to prevent it.
40 years ago an old journeyman showed me the teflon tape and pipe dope trick. He pointed out the Taiwan pipe and fittings and lack of quality control as the main reason for doing so. The other advice was to use galvanized fittings for gas lines to avoid sand holes that the black foreign fittings sometimes had.
If you use galvanized fittings for gas you've done so illegally. ( in most places ) also you've joined dis similar metals as galvanized fittings contain zinc which is more noble than black iron, so you INCREASE the chances for pinhole leaking due to electrolysis. In short, you got taught wrong
Like this if you've ever worked on gas lines
See more plumbing service calls: ua-cam.com/play/PLSpTuwsLqh7t-C39a5zmjEX5pnP6ySiqx.html
I did a lot of gas piping and I also learned to tape and dope
I never use teflon on gas I only use grip
Copper all the way in Australia
In Los Angeles, it is against code to use Teflon tape on gas joints, you are only supposed to use dope. It is to prevent chunks of Teflon from getting in the pipe and reaching gas fixtures, and blocking the small orifices on them, like pilot lights. Is Teflon code where you work?
I could only imagine how much that thread cutter comes in clutch, keep up the awesome vids
I'm with you Roger, I put teflon, and pipe dope. I even put some pipe dope in my morning coffee.
Next time I do any gas work here I am going to definitely remember that trick us oil field pipe line guys are just used to the pipe dope only
I usually use both but I've always been taught to never use tape by itself.
Thats right lol
Update: I had to change up some gas line for my tankless it worked great
Double the protection 👍🏻 Teflon and Pipe dope
No idea why you popped up in my feed but I'm glad you did. Been Binge watching.
same his voice is just so good
Likewise. Him and HCACR videos
The same here actually..
It’s UA-cam being UA-cam
Same
When I was a teen and had just started helping my dad on sites he said to check for gas leaks smoke a cigarette.
I asked him how does that work.
He said If you live you did a good job 😁
I miss that old man.
So he blew up?
@@smellymeadowhel8763
No heart attack, 47 years as a carpenter finally caught up with him.
That’s true up to about 20 years ago here too. Most gas leaks are quite small on low pressure house lines.
The cig will never ignite natural gas. Lighter will though.
@@a_mustache_of_great_repute what if you drop a lit cigarette with gas around?
This is a man who truly loves what he does. He’s out here working when he really doesn’t have to, but he does to show us up and coming young guys how to do things the right way. Thank you for your videos sir.
Year 3 plumber here, love watching pros like you work. Always something that can be learned.
Yeah don't use tape on joints. Most states it's against code to use tape. Dope only and if.your worried about a joint use wicking. The moisture from the dope will make it swell and seal up the joint.
I love how you're always talking about how important it is to turn the water off, no matter what, then go and do a live gas line replacement like this.
It may look and sound strange, but there's only about a 1/4 lb of pressure going through a residential main like this. JUST MAKE SURE NO ONE IS SMOKING LOL.
Even then you can put a match up to it and you will get a flame that can easily be put out by putting your hand over the pipe end
@@davidreynolds731 The issue is rather the carbon monoxide poisoning...
@@morphman86
You only get CO poisoning from poorly burning gas. While you can do what he did since the pressure is around 7 inches wc or barely over 1/4 psi, it's better to just have the gas company come out and turn it off properly.
@@tcolondovich2996 Oh, sorry, I didn't know hydroCARBON gas didn't contain CARBON that would bind with OXYGEN when exposed to OXYGEN-rich air... Silly of me.
Those meters wouldn't be legal here, they must be at the side of the house.. Thats just plain nuts having them out by the roadway especially without big concrete filled protection rails..
facts
And to be honest, I don't know how or why the meters that close to the road in the 1st place.
I'm more interested in the fact someone hit that already. No one thought to put protection around it and also how long was that pipe line live and leaking before it got "Fixed" lol
Truth why put a med or high pressure riser street side let alone an gas fixture. All our meters are inside or on the front corner
@@thagasguy Facts I don't needa education to see how bad this setup can go. Real quick. lol
I have been plumbing 30+ years and always enjoying watching your videos. I’m never too old to learn something new!
Surprised the city didn’t make owner install guard post.
Definitely need some dead men around that meter. Couldn’t agree more.
Surprised the home owner did not install protection, independently of what a bunch of bureoucrats think people should do, and why Mr. Wakefield agreed to do the job without also putting in protection!
@@AlessioSangalli Roger easily could've recommended it and they refused but yeah let's blame him.
@@LPJMagicmusic I did not blame anybody, but it is also true that Mr. Wakefield did not address the evident lack of safety of the meter in this video, regardless to what the local authorities mandate in their jurisdiction.
@@AlessioSangalli he may not have addressed it to us but you have no idea whether he talked to the customer about it or not. My guess is It's not the plumbers job to install barriers, it's a plumbing channel so he doesn't need to tell you something obvious that you very intelligently noticed.
I spent my first 7 years as an adult working as an industrial tech in the fishing industry, one of the things I was shoehorned into as a young guy was plumbing and I don't even know how many miles of pipe I laid across the 4 plants I worked in, but it's nice to see someone else who does dope and tape for things like this. We were trained to do that for all gas lines, whether the gas was air, a combustible, or steam, and I can't think of any lines that I worked on that developed leaks (and with the relationships I have with my old chiefs, they would give me a lot of grief if they had to redo my work. 5 years out of the industry and I still get updates on projects I worked on)
Please note, I am not a plumber. Welder, boiler tech, fabricator, and mechanic yes to some degree, but plumbing was just one of the jobs I got put on a lot between production runs to keep me on payroll.
Keep up the good work Roger! I found you recently and have been directing customers who are struggling with plumbing to your channel!
About 6 years ago, I was chasing a bunch of tiny leaks in 100 year old gas pipes. I called Oatey up, they recommended Hercules dope with kevlar fibers instead of their own name brand. At that time, I think they had recently purchased Hercules, so not quite like recommending their competitor. The kevlar makes the dope stiff, definitely does not flow like other dope. I ran taps and dies on the old threads to removed all the old dried junk before reassembly. I tested the old system at 100 psi for 3 days, no leaks.
Argco makes super dope, an anaerobic pipe dope. Its absolutely hell to undo. But for sketchy stuff you won't be able to get back to it is incredible
Gas lines work off of water column not psi. The system works on a max 5lbs psi.
The amount of respect I have for you not just doing it to spec but doing it so It doesn’t leak again (you don’t have to do it again) is amazing,
Love the content
It's refreshing to see someone who takes pride in their work for once. Going so far as to wipe the extra pipe dope off... I don't think I've ever seen that.
Plumbers that teach me would get mad and say that’s way too much. Just enough to cover where you plan on sinking the threads. It’s predictable enough and super clean. Just how I was taught. 🤷♂️
I'm not even a plumber and this video is so enjoyable to watch. I enjoy your channel.
I have worked in offshore and onshore oil and gas industry. Offshore Teflon tape is prohibited for certain systems due to its uncanny ability to send little shards into the subsea directional control valves. Onshore, the pipe work is made up with hdpe tape (the blue stuff) and no pipe dope. Torque used is TAF...usually a roughneck with a cheater pipe on a 4ft pipe wrench. Never had issues.
Roger is that really cool uncle who can always do the job no matter what that we all wish we had
I love your videos! Im not a plumber, but im learning a lot!
My favorite tool is the M18 Fuel deep cut Portable Bandsaw! I've been building fences for over a decade, and this tool can handle a lot of what the portacable corded bandsaw can.
For volume, a battery will always fall short of what a corded tool can accomplish, but cut for cut, it always does a great job!! Its spectacular for small jobs, with less than an hour of consecutive cutting. More than that, i just use another battery.
If i had to give up every fence tool I own, the tool I would trade my left foot to keep, would be my milwaukee bandsaw.
It cuts anything I imagine a plumber would need to cut, if you've got the space to do it!!
I've cut aluminum, stainless, galvanized steel, carbon, hardened steel, copper, pvc, plastic, wood 4x4s, and a block of 2" by 2" solid square stock.
Just don't cut rusty stuff. That eats up the blade. The tool doesn't care, but the blades do.
Highly recommend, 20/10 stars.
What would be the benefit over a sawzall? Straighter cuts?
14:18 “where’d I put that damn thing” happens to me DAILY
I’m a machinist and I do that all the time only with me I’m walking around the shop for 10 minutes before I find it .
Find the tape measure...go look for the pencil...where's the damn drill...I know I got the impact gun out earlier...Fitbit thinks I'm walking marathons.
Me trying to find my screw bits
and then half the time its under your leg or literally right behind you. but i twist and search and all kinds of crap. i just had that thing! lol
If you want your dies to stay sharp on that threader, you need to back up a quarter turn every full rotation to break the chipping from the cutter threads. This is common when threading almost any hard material.
I've gone to plenty of callbacks on leaks where plumbers didn't use both teflon tape and pipe dope. I've also worked on gas lines on the fly. Good work!
Key point “always back up your fittings with another pipe wrench before fully tightening your pipe so that the prior fitting or pipe does not spin on you causing a leak.
Always have a backup
As a machinist I'd like to point out to people who may not know that the smoke that's coming up while you were cutting the threads is normal; cutting threads into metal generates a lot of heat, and the cutting oil is exactly that, *oil,* so it burns when heated.
I’ve never been interested in plumbing until watching your videos, thank you 🙏🏾 .... am i getting old?
I don't think it's age, but rather the way Roger explains things. He knows his things and explains them well, without overselling (or underselling) his craft. That is what makes these videos compelling (at least to me).
Pro-tip: i use pipe thread sealant on pipe threads, then teflon tape. this leaves your fingers clean, and the pipe dope enters the joint as you tighten the fitting through the tape:
Love the vids roger!
There’s suppose to be a pressure test tee after the outlet on the meter and traffic protection
Gas company here requires an accessible tee on the outlet to “hot tank” the house line to work on the meter set. And certainly meter protection is a must.
@@benjamincain4778 The gas company is just gonna have to "wack'm" now to do any meter repair. Job security!
He got a union, good enough, usually atmos want a bypass place but they hung it without meter bar so.
We always have an inspector
I have many memories (and shoulder aches) from carrying and using an ancient ridgid 700 threader. Outside of the weight of it, seeing the new shiny threads on galvanized or black pipe was always satisfying. Enjoyed the ride-along! Keep up the good work!
The best plumber back at it much love.
Thank you, sir!
I am an IT Network Administrator. Why am I watching your videos non-stop? Glad I found your channel. Oh, and that is a bad-ass watch you wear. What is it?
With small size pipes it may work fine, but from my experience on a job with 3 inch galvanize pipe I got leaks in almost every fitting and had to do it again with paste only.
On 2-1/2" and larger pipe Keytite or Grip pipe dope is the way to go.
I don't understand how ? Teflon and pipe dope is the way to go on every size, just saying ive never had a problem
thats insane, here once you hit 2 1/2" and above pipe you need to make Welded connections......
Hey Roger, its Shaun again. We've had a comment conversation before over another of your videos. Im a plumber and licenced gasfitter here in Saskatchewan, Canada. Again, great video. Its crazy to see the differences in gas code from place to place. Here in Saskatchewan, you'll never see a meter hung like that. Our meters are either mounted to the house , or we have what we call trailer stands, which, if a meter cannot be bolted to a fixed-foundation house, are used. They sit at about 4' above ground. Few other things, we aren't allowed the use of galvanized piping for anything in plumbing, other than rural waterlines. Everything i do gets painted grey, or yellow in a commercial application. A lot of cheap guys in town here just leave the black Iron to rust, which looks like absolute garbage.
We have to have riser sleeves around any gas riser coming out of the ground, with 14gauge tracer wire, and 4-elbow, 10" center to center swing joints. Its crazy for me to see that piping out of the ground with no swing joint!
As for the "teflon" and dope....i was trained with just dope. My journeyman was old school and it wasn't until I was doing a 12 unit condo building in my third year of apprenticeship that I requested "teflon". Our tape for gas is yellow and its a PTFE thread tape. But yeah, tape the threads and then dope. Doesn't matter if it's gas or water. Always tape then dope. Its a different feel than just dope.
Last thing to harass ya about is the m18 threader. It only became available last year and ive been toying with notion of purchasing one. I've always lugged around my ridgid 300, and I have an auto-oiler at my shop. The only hand threader that I have is the ratchet style hand lever, which has been good for taking out on location for small works. Im going to assume that youd recommend it? Haha
Thanks again Shaun. Around here this is the normal. There are a million things that I think should be done in all of plumbing but if I did all of them and nobody else was I would be going out of business. I started using tape and dope when one of the smartest engineers I ever met told me that was the way he wanted it done. You're right, I really like the M18. I've used the 300 for a long time and the ratchet threaders have been in my vans forever. BTW, We quit using galvanized for waterlines many years ago.
When we have Gas risers in Canada, we require a minimum of 4 90's on the riser to create a swing joint so if the ground has a frost heave it dosent break the line.
Hes in texas...
@@joea5183 Sure, but earth movement can still occur can it not? I've also seen a gas line get backed into and not break because of a swing joint. I was more so curious about his local code.
@@Havoc080 Most of texas is very shallow top soil with limestone beneath it. Texas soil doesn't really tend to move.
C H - Here in The Great White North we do not do the same as they do in the USA.
Its so awsome to see someone with decades of experience work their trade. This is a master at work.
No kidding they hit it with a car, terrible spot to have the meter.
Wow absolutely phenomenal work. You're hired in my book!!! Professional, somebody that knows exactly what they're doing.
The water line into my house broke when I tried to replace the shutoff valve (26-year-old double-wide trailer that had been empty for 7 years) and I tried to thread the galvanized pipe coming out of the ground. My brother-in-law has a manual threader that worked okay, but I would have LOVED to have that tool. It probably wouldn't have split the line down into the ground and broke the pipe off at the elbow if I had. On the other hand, even though I had to dig up that whole section and replace it, at least I know it's got a brand new line all the way from the PVC water supply from the meter.
I'm slowly replacing all the Poly water lines in the house with PEX. I need to get a tool that crimps rings with 1 hand. I just don't trust Sharkbites. I'll use them if it's in a place where I just can't get my crimping tool but, to me, I'd rather save the money and put a little more effort into the connections. I've seen the tests with pressurized water and I know the pressure fittings work fine, but I guess I'm just too old school (and too cheap).
We do liquid and high pressure vapor propane piping. Yes, we always use tape and dope. We're mostly using Sch. 80 A53 grade B with SA105N forged steel fittings. The TRC is real specific on some of the points in NFPA 58.
What I like about your work is that you are fast efficient,and don't get
Any on you!
Fast Christ that was A 5 minute job. Wrapping 7 times with Teflon completely covered the threads plus some pipe. Got oil all over the cement. I would have ripped my guys a new one threading with nothing under to catch oil. Should tell home owner a bollard needs to be installed to protect meter from being hit by cars
@@joem5332 Guys like you, the conceal carry is a thing.
DYI here. Nice to watch the pros at work.
Chatter about opening the gas pipe under pressure--I watched the gas company guy replace the regulator at my folks house--they needed larger service for a spa heater and a new gas stove. And part of that job was replacing the valve on the service side of the regulator. indeed there was a moment where the gas just flowed--but only a moment, because he too had everything lined up and ready to go. I seem to remember this clever little rig that plugged the service pipe with a expandable stopper that, unexpanded, could be pushed through the open valve, and a rod that came up through the bleed valve? Sorry, this was years ago, I don't quite remember how it all worked.
One thing I do remember, brought to mind by all the rust visible here, was a couple of coats of that gray anti-corrosion paint you can see on the meter.
Did the riser going to the pool heater eventually get painted?
Finally: I remember once slipping a section of PVC over a gas riser (house side of the regulator, valve off) to protect the riser from weed-cutter line, which had over the years eaten almost all the way through the riser (that was why I was replacing it). Is there a reason why you didn't do that here? Was I wrong to have done it? (Yeah, looking back, should have called a pro for that job. But I was a young and foolish know it all, and I at least read up pretty thoroughly on working with gas, so I wasn't working blind. Harris County, TX, jurisdiction.)
I work for a gas utility company in the northeast . It blows my mind that gas meters are in the front yard... ours is in the basement or on side of house .
I think that is an alley behind the houses.
Where at I’m baltimore and ours are inside or the front corner
@@thagasguy New England
@@Mike-mn9xo very cool! Safe operating!
Where is the riser ,out or in, and cause it blows my mind see in under or in house with the reg,
I really like watching this channel. I worked in Ma as a plumber. He did a decent job. Comparing how I was taught, you ALWAYS use two wrenches. 3 wraps with the tape start at pipe then to end. Don’t over tighten them. They tapered like a pencil and it can expand and crack the fitting reason for two wrenches. Never loosen a fitting, it could break the seal of the tape and dope. If you do, in do it and reapply tape and dope. I never saw you test with bubbles. I’ll give half credit for not having an oil pan or opening the box more because you got down and wiped up the oil 👍🏻👍🏻. **first time I’ve ever saw any differences in any videos I’ve seen so far** Still a great plumber.
In New Jersey Teflon tape is not allowed on gas piping unless it is the yellow tape That's rated for gas. If it was hit by a car it also requires a pressure test and inspection. So that you can check if line underneath ground is damaged in any way
Plus, protective posts should be installed.
The blue monster is also rated for gas piping.
@@jamesallen3739 Blue Monster "Gas Guard" yellow tape is the only Blue Monster tape approved as per International Fuel and Gas Code.. But I guess local jurisdictions have final say.....
@@guitar1301 , you are correct, even though the Blue Monster blue tape can meet the standards for gas, once it's installed we have no idea. That is why Yellow Tape is required by the National Fuel Gas Code and The American Gas Association. Local codes maybe more stringent and strict but in no way can they weaken The National Fuel Gas Code.
Bob Y bingo you’re correct. Wrapping 7 times is a bit excessive?
Roger, nice video but I'd like to go over some of the shortcomings I noticed, just to give the plumbers and pipefitters out there a perspective from the gas utility side and the National Fuel Gas Code. My name is Bob Yehlen and I've been a first responder /gas fitter for the gas utility in St Louis, Missouri for 35 years. I am presently retired but still consult for the gas industry from time to time when incidents occur throughout the country ( incidents like the over pressurized gas mains in Massachusetts, the mall gas explosion in Florida & ect.). So now let's go over the things I noticed on this particular video.
#1 before making a repair to any fuel run let's determine if the original installation was up to past and present codes ( is the fuel run sized properly? What is the total gas load, house and pool heater? This particular meter set has a b-42 regulator and a 275 CFH (275,000 BTUs) gas meter on inchs delivery. So if the total load is over 275,000 BTUs, the gas utility should be contacted for a gas meter upgrade) #2 the pool heater fuel run came off the gas company pressure tap tee ( the gas company uses this tee to determine lock up and working gas pressures; this is not a tee for your pool heater fuel run), that being said you may use it as long as another tee is added. This is done very simply by replacing one of your elbow at the meter set with a tee & plug ( now a tap is available for the gas company to take pressures and you can also pressure test your underground fuel run using the same pressure tap tee, just by hooking up your manometer, turn the valve on and back off, now you have a pressure test going). #3 jumping a live fuel run is very old school & is no longer acceptable by the National Fuel Gas Code & the AGA ( American Gas Association). The proper procedure would be to turn the gas off at the meter, install your required fittings for the job and pressure test the complete system. I know it seems like a waste of time and opening you up to much more repairs if problems are indicated on the other fuel runs but that is what's required in this day and age ( believe me, there are a lot of law firms out there hoping you don't pressure test and bypass required procedures).#4 a ground joint union is not acceptable for underground fuel runs and risers ( only insulated unions are acceptable for underground fuel runs and risers, this is required for cathodic protection). #5 all underground fuel runs should have a trace wire or a means to locate the underground installation. Since this is a repair & the original installation had no means of locating the line, this should be noted on your receipt and your records.
I hope some of this information was helpful. I know some of you will say that my local municipality or state does not require this,but these are the National Fuel Gas Codes, states and municipalities can enhance and make codes more stringent but in no way are they allowed to weaken or reduce the National Fuel Gas Code. You all stay safe out there and have a good day .
Finally some real knowledge thank you.
Hi, Bob. Do you have social media, website, UA-cam channel, etc., where you explain the gas plumbing code and proper installation of gas fittings?
Hey Roger. I am a nyc plumber and I was taught to never use Teflon tap on gas. In fact. It is not allowed by NYC code. Honestly I don’t know why that is. But I love using my ridgid 700 pony with the ridgid support arm to hold back the threader and the same vise. But I like that Milwaukee makes a battery operated threader. No more extension chords
Hack: Doesn't turn the gas off or care.
Novice: Turns the gas off to be safe.
Pro: Knows the correct way to do it without having to shut off the gas.
I’m sort of a mix between the first and the last. If I need to put one fitting on a live gas line, I’ll do it without shutting off the gas. However I don’t bother trying to cover up the pipe or anything like that. I just get everything ready then screw the piece out and put the other one in. If some gas goes into the air, oh well.
I hope there is NEVER anything gonna happen if you leave on the gas line,
Cause no insurance will pay...
I mean why would you rather turn it off most of the time there is no one at home. I think to be safe is more important than not need to turn off the gas.
Cillers badass if you know what you’re doing there’s no risk. It’s not as big of a deal nowadays with all the electronic ignitions. However at one time, if you turned the gas off it cost you an hour or more to relight all the pilots in the house. Therefore if you had to make one connection it saved the customer to work on it without killing the gas.
How do you pressure test the new joints for leaks without turning off the gass or isn't pressure testing an installation a requirement in Texas? Also "it's okay 'cause I don't smoke" seems a rather deceptive statement with cars driving by at a few feet from the open pipe. I must be missing something here.
@@TheBayru seems like you love your own life a bit to much 😂
Never had a near death moment?
It’s nice with domestic fittings, pipe make up is always the same as long as dies are set correctly an threading length are the same, good job Roger!!!
You HAVE to consistently put oil as your threading please do this people
I though that as well. I think the only reason he was doing it that way is he was by himself and trying to catch the oil in the rag. I guess it’s fine if you don’t mind replacing teeth once a year.
Its only hurting his teeth, but yeah oil almost constantly is correct
What do I think....how to say this without coming off weird ... A.) I could watch you work all day. I love how you work. You already had every step planned and ready. Then did the job flawlessly. B.) I wish you were my boss. I swear dude....there needs to be more ppl like you in this world. No bullshit or else....but ready to teach and show in the kindest, most patient way. C.) I wish you had been my dad lol. Your personality is so much like the coolest dad ever. Patient. Kind. I've never heard you cuss .... Doubt you yell very often. Bet you've never hit someone because you had lost your temper. Bro. Keep being you. I wish there was more folks like you. God bless.
Roger , try the pipe treading lube that Ridgid sells. It comes in a spray can and it works great without the mess you get from cutting oil. Our threads come out beautiful with it.
Being a pipefitter/welder here at TI i use that same process on gas and then i switch to true blue or SWAK on water . gotta make a repair on the new house im buying but its not at the meter its on the side of the house going from the ground into the house. good job and very informative.
I had to plumb a whole Factory which was stainless steel piping and fittings and you learn real quick that you put your pipe dope on your threads first and then put your tape over top and then tighten down and you have no leaks and it's clean
The company I work for we do a lot of commercial pipefitting including stainless work and they do the exact same thing. However, we utilize other materials in aspects of pipefitting and I believe the process you described
is only correct for stainless work otherwise, teflon tape should be applied (correctly) first THEN pipe dope. But hey everywhere is so crazy and different as long as it had pressure or doesn't leak isn't that all that matters
@@tylerdelancey9543 cool...yeah which way you use and works with no leaks...all good..🍺😎
I like your vids, I am a sprinkler fitter of 35 years , But i'm always learning something, we as sprinkler fitters always use the dope first then cover with teflon tape, But that is only because we are laying out one hundred heads, 3 - 4 piece heads or more for the T.I. of the high rise floor that we are currently working on, But the teflon tape before the dope or paste does work better especially on bigger pipe diameters. just my 10 cents worth. Thanks, keep the vids coming.
I gotta say, I'm REALLY digging the background jam you chose for this video.
I was vibin' the whole way through.
Thanks man!
I was thinking that! 10/10!
As a sprinkler fitter we always use dope and tape. But my personal preference is to put the dope on then the tape. Comes out cleaner and less messy.
no back wrench on the union! can see everything spin
Eggsackly
I had a water heater installed by a plumber who used pipe dope and teflon tape. This was the first time I had heard of that but I've been using that method since and never had a leak 👍👍👍👍👍
There is a pro move there, wipeing the extra pipe poop off the pipes..
Did you say poop
@@idontmindpineappleonpizza8825 lol
Do it all the time idk
*inhale* pipe poop
I work maintenance in a factory but 50% of my job is pretty much working with piping. My favorite Milwaukee tool I've used so far is their m18 PVC Pipe shear. I think it can cut up to 1.25" pipe, but most of our chiller lines to our machines are 3/4 schedule 80. It makes it super fast and always a clean cut. I have yet to have it bust apart a pipe instead of cutting it.
Please add 4" steel posts, nearby, to protect gas installation in the future.
I love seeing Roger on the job!!!! like a boss.
Wow, checkout the gas pipes for the neighbor at around 16:50 . checkout the angles of the back 2 pipes!
Because of your videos my respect for a good plumber has gone up dramatically so keep up the good work
I just can’t believe there is nothing blocking the gas meter from traffic.
Yeah, seems like the worst possible location for it
that's america for you
I was mowing a big 4 acre field one time.. was hired by a dude and all he said was “i want it bailed for the horses.. the stuff was weeds galore about 4 foot tall:. Right smack im the middle of the field was a damn gas line check with the 2 foor pipe that sticks outta the ground that says no smoking.. well i ran that thing over. Got lucky and didnt blow my ass off but i didnt even noticezc i thought it was like a rock or possum or something until i go to roll the bail off and see the white pole in the bail... so i drove up to ole buddy and told him to call the gas company and i just left. Never talked to him again.. lol
Its actually quite illegal to not have bollards near a gas meter when its a certain distance away from anywhere a car could reasonably be.
@@alexpuffinburger9015 the dialogue must've been. Well cars reasonabley wont be on a road! that's why we have roads right? its not like anyone's ever going to be regularly driving down a road!
That Threader is nice, I spent a few summer's as a teenager hand cutting Threads and that sucked big time. Nice to see they are making things easier.
Looks good hoss
Thanks man!
As a gas utility worker, I wish there were more Roger Wakefields out there.
Look out for mechanical contractors that use a lot of Teflon tap....
Please don’t add much pipe dope to the beginning threads, you’d be surprised how many gas valves get clogged from pipe dope and had to be replaced 🤦🏽♂️
corey Babcock wrong as long as you know what you’re doing. I’m sure it’s happened once and you say they get clogged lol not a common problem
@@chrisd3399 ... I do a LOT of generator work and you'd be amazed at how often I find pipe dope in the works within the gen set when it doesn't start on the first try after an install. I won't say it's often but once a year (in my 25 years) is often enough to know where to place the blame. In cases where I needed to check pressure on an older install and there was no test fitting I have used the sediment leg, where I also run into some goo balls left over from the original installation. Just saying it's more common that you think, even if they never actually cause a problem.
Yes! Always use pipe dope and teflon! I like to put the pipe dope before the teflon because it looks alot cleaner and wont get all over your fingers, but to each is own
Seems like a massive safely hazzard to have an exposed gas mains next to a road with 0 protection around it, hell put a crappy picket fence around it at least!
his surroundings are clear, im sure if there was any cause of danger he would know of it, considering he is properly certified and has decades of experience like working for texas instruments. it was open for literally .5 seconds
@@kidvinkly2771 i'm not talking about the job, i'm talking about an exposed gas line near a road with no *fence* or anything to stop a car hitting it
@@The-Omega-Blade Welcome to North America 😂
@@ScaredDonut i live in the UK, i fear what america is like
@@The-Omega-Blade My city has a few near major roadways (80KM/H is the speed limit on those) Wouldn't be a good day if a car hits it
Another great job... Rodger, I also use Teflon tape and pipe dope together on pcvp female threat fittings to connect male brass threads on shower valves... I only go hand tight, but never had a leak doing it that way... Thank you again,,,,
Where I’m from local code enforcement will fail us for using Teflon on gas connections, must be pipe dope only.
RE code book closely ," dope must be applied to male threads", what you put on above and beyond up to craftsman.
@@Republic1usa but it’s up to local enforcement and they will fail inspection here if we use anything but dope.
@@GunpowderMechanical What state?
@@tipperzack Maryland
Another trick to use is putting Molly paste on the threads and faces of the union. This helps with the seal, and ease of breaking the union apart in the future.
I never use any tape on any gas line connection and actually illegal in my state. For a number of reasons number one why I don’t use it is because while threading steel pipe your dies teeth wear down... gotta replace them. Instead of replacing them let’s add tap. Fresh cut pipe threads should screw to the female end idk 2 turns if even. With new pipe die. A lot of mechanical contractors when it comes to gas lines they use a lot of tape ... to rebuild the thread up for there blown out die...
Man, you make plumbing look good in this video.
Smooth, sleek, and clean!
That black iron on the riser is exposed to weather. It probably should be painted.
It’ll be alright
@@spencerhanson3112 untill it rusts out and leaks yeahh just hope no smoker walks past as it does and hope for no sparks when it rusts out or they'll have a bad explosive time 😅
Seems to me codes are lacking down in Texas. In New Jersey teflon tape is not permitted on gas pipe & all exterior gas piping must be painted with rust proof paint not to mention pressure tested
@@richardjoseph8683 Id like to imagine he did a leak test inside the house at an appliance, much easier. Kinda silly that NJ doesn't allow tape.
@@joshuapittman5208 It was a dedicated line to the pool heater so therefore couldn't be tested from a house appliance.
Awesome repair! As for the machining oil so you don't spill so much like I saw in this video cause I know you like to keep things clean get yourself like an olive oil dispenser or even an old oil dispenser you can easily direct the oil where it's needed and don't need to drip all over the ground idk if this helps but it definitely makes for less of a mess
Too much teflon gives you a false sense of the fitting being tight. Well the amount you put on there anyways.
6 times round is the sweet spot though.
Teflon tape is only a lubricant for seating it deeper in said joint. Unless it has a rubber ring always is dope
No tape ever on gas!
Why not?
They call for tape, or dope on gas piping here. Only time you wouldnt would be on flared copper.
I'll agree, Teflon tape and dope is splendid for water connections. But I was always told to avoid tape for gas as it has the potential to flake off and cause a restriction in a burner orifice or gas valve.
I work for the largest utility in the USA. We use pipe dope only, but you have to use the right pipe dope. It’s not yellow dope, it’s not blue dope, it’s green key tite dope. Never hardens. Always seals. Ps, you stole the utilities usable tee, now they cannot hot tank the meter to work on it. The tee above the right side of the meter must stay open with a plug. Then the utility can probe the meter and Keep the service hot without interrupting service
Lol - we may work for the same company. I remember using the yellow crusty stuff in early 2000s though. Terrible stuff
I love hearing these little tricks of the trade like the pipe dope and Teflon, never seen that before and my cousin is a plumber. Really good job btw, now just need some protection from passing cars.
Love their M18 impacts, the 3/8, 1/2 impact wrenches and 1/4 impact driver. Working on cars they're pretty nice, their reciprocating saw is pretty good too.
I use the dope/tape combo on any threaded connections so far as water lines are concerned. But on gas lines most codes don't allow Teflon to be used as a sealant, even the dope is required to be non-ptfe. Another thing I'll mention for anyone watching that's considering adopting the practice, be careful you don't Crack your fittings! Especially these brittle "lead free" brass parts.
This is how I was taught. You drive any fitting down much easier and more efficient with dope lubed teflon setup. Usually i just use dope only good for LP gas and drive it down. All depends on city code. They both work good. Even better together
I am an apprentice style plumber and I was always taught to use pipe dope and thread tape! I don't understand why you wouldn't.
I work in industrial, my old boss was a plumber/pipe fitter, he always used Teflon and pipe dope om threads. We never had leaks.
Clean job Roger. I would recommend adding a layer of paint over pipe. Keeps rust away and makes job look alot cleaner👨🔧
I work for the gas company in San Antonio tx I use Teflon and pipe
Dope on all my builds or repairs it makes the difference
M18 Fuel Hackzall
M18 Fuel Hammer Drill and the
M18 Fuel Impact Driver
I love these. They've made my plumbing jobs go so much more easily and boosted my productivity.
In the old days before Teflon tape and other stuff. The one item we used on gas pipe in the plant told to me by the old timers and we used and never had a leak was ; permatex no 2 form a gasket. It’s totally resistant to petroleum products, never hardens. It works great , never had a problem.
Back when I made the switch from doing electrical work to plumbing (I know big change😂) I wish I would have had someone like you to teach me instead of the assholes that were sending me on wild goose chases. You have taught me a lot in your videos keep em comin man
Double Sealant here too! I prefer no5 and tape though. I realize teflon doesn't dry up vs no5 but just prefer it instead
I don't feel so bad now about the pipe thread/pipe dope method, thanks! I've had folks snicker at me for "overdoing it". When it comes to gas, I don't take any chances.
Journeyman I’m working under told me from the get-go to always use Teflon and pipe dope and the client will be happy due to no callbacks for leaks. Since then, we’ve always had happy clients.
Seeing master tradesmen tricks and tips is always amazing I'm blow away by how effective rodger is at this.
Wondering if some sort of protection barrier needs to be installed to prevent future car strikes. I know for heating oil tanks were cars can hit it there is a requirement to sink posts or some other solid barrier to prevent it.
Man, watching you work makes me wish my back was never screwed up. I miss being a plumber.
40 years ago an old journeyman showed me the teflon tape and pipe dope trick. He pointed out the Taiwan pipe and fittings and lack of quality control as the main reason for doing so. The other advice was to use galvanized fittings for gas lines to avoid sand holes that the black foreign fittings sometimes had.
If you use galvanized fittings for gas you've done so illegally. ( in most places ) also you've joined dis similar metals as galvanized fittings contain zinc which is more noble than black iron, so you INCREASE the chances for pinhole leaking due to electrolysis. In short, you got taught wrong