4 years ago I watched this video when you first dropped it, I am getting ready to run the gas line for our house and the first thing I thought as I started to research the process was that I needed to come back and watch this again. Still a great video with lots of easy instruction. Thanks.
My first real job at 17 was plumber apprentice. My mom was dating a master plumber. It was new commercial plumbing. I wish we had that gas pipe and PEX for the water back then (1980). Tracking down and fixing the leaks on all the black steel pipe fittings was a nightmare. You are doing a great job. I'm plumbing my house by myself right now, also. A lot of the tricks are coming back to me, mostly after I do it wrong. LOL
Just for future reference you should use a little pipe dope over the Teflon tape when making connections. It reduces friction between the tape and the threads which allows for a much better seal. For proof back out a fitting with just Teflon tape and you will see most of it is bunched up towards the outer most threads. Also you will notice much less force is needed to tighten a fitting when using pipe dope with tape. Due to less friction.
Red Poppy, no problem at all mixing electrical stuff. You just can't mix it in the panel you have to use the right breakers. Using different boxes or outlets doesn't effect anything. Use it and save yourself some money.
Good video, I use CSST quite often. Be careful with the red o-ring, real easy to cut it sliding over the end of CSST. Only one question, doesn’t CSST require a ground clamp on one end of your run? Better check codes, and what’s required by the manufacturer. Another suggestion, use wrenches not channel locks, right tool for the right job.
OMG! Thank you God damn no adjustable wrench. When you can use the adjustable wrench. The water pump plier is last resort and under stood for the thread fittings. Even then they have what is called adjustable pipe wrenches.
Im about to remove an old galvanized run in my garage that im converting to a din. Its external to the drywall so im putting it in the wall. My fear is that later on, someone may put a nail or screw through the line. Any suggestions?
Yes, CSST requires bonding and grounding wire or if there is a lightening strike nearby (does not have to be direct hit) the CSST can become the ground and burn a small hole in the CSST causing a flame torch and burning the house down. I'm curious if he installed one or not.
I was a mechanical inspector until 3-08. I never signed off one initial rough inspection because not one person would install csst in concealed locations per the manufacturer's installation instructions.
Does csst need to be bonded? Theres a line added for an appliance. The house came with gas thats bonded already. Not sure if I need to bond it at the csst
@@punxnotdead3873 find the installation instructions. That will explain it all. I'm sure you could find your brand on the internet. More than likely, it will need to be bonded.
Gas utility guy here. Back when this stuff came out we had manufacturer training and cert cards issued. Suppliers weren't even sposed to sell to non certified fitters. Proper sizing is critical. A given nominal id csst will not pass anywhere near the same amount of gas as black iron hence for a given flow rate csst always needs to be larger than a black iron application. Cant tell you how many I found contractor ran undersized lines because they based size on black pipe sizing charts. CSST has manufacturer specfic flow rates at different pressures that must be faithfully adhered to. The corrugations offer quite a bit of resistance to flow. Also a lot of regs regarding nail plates and partition penetrations. I think you may have misspoke about running elevated pressures in residential applications. Elevated pressure is where csst becomes way more cost effective. Typical 2 psi system allows smaller tubing to be used (cheaper) but requires a second pressure cut indoors before serving equipment.
In South Africa you must use a licenced gas fitter and he must issue a certificate. If you don't have a certificate and have an isurance claim the company will not pay out. I also know that you have to have a brass connector if you go through the timber into a cupboard or any timber rafters ....more chance for leaks.
@TSammut0219 depends on how undersized the line is. At best, equipment will be firing at a lower rate and not perform as designed. At worst it can cause delayed ignition (boom on start), improper combustion, soot, etc.
When I worked at a plumbing company we had to do gas line repairs in trailers down in the crawl space with all the black widow spiders. We would pressurize the system and pray to god we would see no soapy bubbles on our joints and connections under there, and that the pressure gauge never moved.
Your vid is very good, I know for a fact that it is a lot of work, but you actually make it look relaxing and satisfying. Very clever how you minimized the leak risk by not using fittings on the turn going to the water heater. I noticed that you strapped the pipe at the T for the black pipe going outside, also noticed that there was no siding on the exterior walls with it means that: "if vinyl siding will be used on this application" nails will be used for that. What is the recommended clearance between the OSB and the gas line to guarantee the siding nails will not perforate the pipe? Thank you.
When we built, we figured we would only need propane for the stove and water heater as well. We used only wood for heat for four years, but then we had to use electric heaters when we were out of town, and when everyone was sick, it was real hard to tend a fire with the flu. We ended up putting in a Empire ultra efficient space heater that actually heats the entire house, and now we can use either/or. It's nice to have the heat come on in the morning without stoking the stove!
I put in a no-ox propane heater a few years ago for redunt backup heating, i love it, also have solar radiant system, and wood stove, and mini-split, off grid, good from 0-100 degrees comfy all the time...
@@cannonplumbinganddrainllc4221 i wouldn't recommend anyone to work with gas but there are millions of handy homeowners who can do this just as good as a licensed plumber
@@nateg5915 yeah but if that person is not licensed or insured and something happens, not good for that individual, they had a handyman in Austin who thought he was good too but due to his lack of knowledge and inexperience he blew a house up, luckily no one was hurt, if your not licensed dont touch it, i see the plumbing board deal with people like this all the time and if i abide by the rules and pay my dues i hold them to that as well, i love calling in on unlicensed idiots
@@nateg5915 i would recommend calling a licensed plumbing company period, i love working with natural and LP gas, thats why theres an M in front of my number bud, MASTER PLUMBER M-40870
Most of the house fires I go on that don't go out are due to lighting strikes and this type of pipe losing its integrity through small pin holes. If your house gets struck turn your gas off and have your lines tested somehow.
One thing on the insulation, you have 2x4's and that does not allow for thicker insulation unless you add a second layer on the inside. Only one thing I would have done different, but it costs more is use 2X6 studs on the outside so I could get more insulation, but one way around this is use insulation board on the inside or on the outside wall as even in places where it is too dry to snow during the winter such as where I am that does make up for the cost of the insulation based on the cost of heating alone. It is possible to be cost effective in the cost of heating in just ONE year.
Most heat loss is up and out of a structure. It depends on his insulation, spray foam no 2x6 needed. If you can stop the air from outside coming in that half the battle. No air infiltration, not much heat loss. You can’t pull a vacuum on a house.
A gas outlet outside will let you setup an outdoor kitchen for those times cooking inside would be insane (summer) or times you have lots of stuff off the garden to prep and can. High pressure setups can also be in places for things like backup generators as they can suck down propane.
You are making serious headway. Why don’t you drop a truck load of big gravel in the entrance of your driveway to the house. You will have to sooner or later. The sooner the better. 👍 Vinny 🇺🇸
putting in gravel is generally a permanent thing as removing the gravel from soil is a hard task so is best done when you know exactly where you want a driveway.
Would it be worth it to put in drain tile under the driveway/yard to prevent it from becoming the mud pit in the spring or would the ground still turn to mud as it thaws out? The good news is you have all the fill dirt you could want on that hill and you already need to dig out to find that spring.
2 years ago they announced going to robot arms instead of moving slag manually...assuming the tractor you mention was part of it being moved manually. Not exposing employees to hot slag is a win, but some will probably complain it's a loss of an entry level job despite a tech to operate the robot being hired.
The end of the CSST should be taped over before pulling it. It only takes one fleck of wood or dirt in there to clog your gas valve some cold winter night when it is drawing hard. Pushing open pipe through joists and studs is a bad practice.
I see that you use a knuckle buster wrench to tighten fittings. I call them that because if it slips that is what will happen. regular pipe wrench is safer. Main thing is that you do what works for you, and that the finished does not leak. I prefer to use black pipe, and flex only at the connections, but that can take longer. Also you can leave the line under test for longer than the specified, but not less. Also that is a great idea leaving the gauge on the line. Also I use NG in my home, and that never goes over .5 lbs.
Up here in Ontario Canada every point you have a Connection they make you put a trap. Is it the same there? I imagine that it would go outside of the drywall. That yellow stuff looks real nice to work with. I know working with black pipe can be a real treat. It looks good things are going fast. One step closer to the prize 🏆
With floor joices that close together you might as well use wrought/black iron pipe and fittings. Plus it helps to use a fine metal file around the cut edge for a better seal.
Another great plumbing job, Heath. If you lived close, I would contact you to put in a hot water tank for me. I remember seeing a video of that road. You will need lots of gravel for it.
At a previous home this same yellow flex line was installed, no stainless was visible at the gas fittings. My existing home has the same flex line and the gas fittings appear similar to this video. Just a bit of stainless exposed. A Rinnai water heater was installed later and that plumber said no stainless should be visible otherwise the brass and stainless will interact causing corrosion. All three installations were done by licensed plumbers. ?
Also you could have used the stub out 90° elbow with square metal mounting plate that's welded together, and the flexible nail guard slinky above the gas tite connection near the stub out.
Be very cautious using any with rubber O-ring seals within. Parker is a brand that uses brass on stainless to deform the end to a flare that is automatically flared when the fitting is put together. There are a few brands that utilises a rubber O ring internally to complete the seal. That may be ok if and only if that fitting stays in an area that is accessible and repair can be made. When in doubt a solid mechanical seal can't be beat.
@Red Poppy Ranch Heath, I have been with your channel since nearly the beginning and I do remember when you found that windfall of electrical components at the dump, I'm still in awe of your ability to find steals 'n deals! Congrats on the tractor, I look forward to seeing what you've found. When you mention the condition of the road, it makes me wonder; when the time comes for your family to move into the house, what will you do about mail delivery? Will USPS (or any other delivery company) deliver to the ranch? Will you establish an address (or is there an address already assigned) for your property?
Very educational. I may not be building a house like what you did, but I’m learning a lot of stuff which I will use in the future to fix something at home.
code requires testing pressure to be 1 and half times the working pressure and that pressure is 14" water column or 0.505277 pounds per square inch, so your test pressure can be min 3 psi. a 1 to 10 psi gauge would be ideal.
I would or have like to see a close-up preparation and installation of the fitting. Fittings are money too, but as an auto tech who had serious surgery got stuck working for UTI. They bounced me from room to room teaching as $12k a year made it hard to keep instructors. They just found that I had 5 years as install & diagnostic tech for a local HVACR company. Many classes from manufacturers but before the stainless flex was invented and sold. It’s funny to think of the family farm where my younger brother and I took turns shooting food cans we sat on the 2k propane tank behind the garage in the early 70’s. Strange to think a new house, pour concrete basement with 3 bed, 1 bath and sump-pump cost $26,300 in 1963. Oh ya, they used copper pipe back then from tank to appliance drops.
The end cuts are crucial on flex gas lines the yellow plastic needs to be cut back as well as cutting a smooth end to the stainless a pipe cutter is recommended as the brass ring just pulls the face end up against the brass taper for the seal.
Up here in the Canada we don't have no white Teflon for gas eh, usually it's yellow or we just use pipe dope. White Teflon for air and water only is what I was taught. And I'd put a piece of tape over the end of that line so no debris may violate your gas pipe eh. Nice clean install though, looks good.
Only suppose to tighten 3/4 of a turn after getting it hand tight. I have to do 20 for 20 and never fail a test. never leaks when installed correctly. Over-tightening will ruin the gasket and cause leaks.
I see you have a Laundry Room. That's going to be a lot of laundry for five children. I was wondering if Cedar could use a propane gas dryer. Anyhow, great job going on! p.s. the AltE UA-cam site really breaks down how to size a solar system. The video series (22) I am referring to is called "Off Grid Solar Power System Design." If you watch the first five videos, you will know how to size your entire system. I am taking notes right now. This series is a Golden Nugget in solar design. Amy Beaudet also shows you how to hook up the system in some of the other videos of that 22-video series.
Thanks for considering my suggestion. There's just one more critical item as I comb through the numerous number crunching on solar panels. The example AltE uses is for a 2,400 Watt system (probably near $5,000), four 315 Watt panels, four 24V batteries (two in series + two parallel strings). I notice our new refrigerator sucks up 1500 Watts/day (25.2 cu ft). That only leaves you with 900 Watts for the house. I have to decide if I would get a propane fridge instead, so I can free up those 2,400 Watts for all other stuff. I don't know the answer yet. I do know if you double your solar system, you double the cost. I am leaning towards a propane fridge, instead of spending $10k on a solar system. Just thought I'd mention the fridge before you button up the gas line. The point being, does one want an electric fridge or a propane fridge? It boils down to using microwaves, coffee makers, toasters, etc. Based on my habits, I supspect I'd use a propane fridge. Over and out!
So, the ceiling connection, was the run too long for a single run pull with one person? Or did your bought length make it necessary to splice two pipes together somewhere anyway? Sure glad you knew enough to know there are different Teflon tapes for different applications. Great job! You're getting closer and closer to "move in day".
With that first tee I just assumed you were making a drip leg. I thought why is he putting that drip leg through a hole in the wall. It took a second for me to process it. It’s interesting how many variations there are on gas pressure testing considering there’s only two codes. Some places only require a little over the operating pressure. I’m in Austin and they require 30 psi for 15 min for low pressure systems and 60 psi for med to high pressure systems. Gas tite is pretty expensive stuff but it definitely is nice when you need it. In your case where you have to go between joists and only have a couple of fixtures it’s wonderful. If you were paying a plumber, you’d make up that extra cost by saving on labor easily. However when you have houses with gas dryers, water heaters, furnaces, stoves, etc. and everything is under the house or in the attic, it’s definitely cheaper to use black iron especially with mega press. We’re not allowed to secure gas tite in the wall except where the stub out is. The reason is for nail protection because it’s so thin unlike black iron. If it’s allowed to be loose it will be pushed out of the way by a nail or screw but when it’s secured it will be penetrated.
I’m a Tennant connecting a gas line for a furnace. My apartments main gas line is 1/2” all I have is 3/8 pvc, my buddy says it’s better to use steel and pvc is not compatible for gas. I don’t see the difference 🙄 My question is the 3/8 is too small to fit the nipple. Is it acceptable using the pipe tape to build up the smaller plastic pipe and thread it on the larger steel gas pipe? It gas checks with no leaks and plastic won’t spark. So far the heater has been phenomenal. If you want a recommendation for a wall heater pm me. Peace.
As a European it is so strange to see gas lines running in the ceiling when it's used on the ground floor. Here the Netherlands is a building code to run those under the house and have them come up through the floor where it is needed.. say the kitchen
So am I right in thinking a propane tanker will come down the "Road of Endeavour" and fill your system periodically? With your skills you must have thought about heating a water tank with heat from the wood burner, and save on propane. Why did you not do this, I'm curious as to your thought processes? Always a big supporter, wishing you and yours the best.
Check with your state the yellow CSST from Home Depot is not approved for use in Massachusetts, even though it’s up sold in Home Depots here, I have had to pull it out Of a few jobs where it was installed and replaced with the black coated track-pipe.
Propane tanks on ag running gear are common here. Might be useful as the nonprimary tank (multiples not run in parallel here) if the supply truck will only meet you at the end of the gravel road. Old NH3 tanks can sometimes be converted.
omg amateur you did everything wrong.. first off you NEVER put the Teflon on clockwise with your right hand while in direct sunlight - according to building code you NEVER ever do that trust me i'm a journeyman tube snapper for over 3 years - just kidding good job on the house, looks great and awesome video, it answered my questions I had for my next project .. like and sub'd
Hi ,i notice that the PTFE tape is in a blue sleve, this is WATER fitting only , There is a yellow sleved one for GAS, The water one will biodegrade with the GAS chemicals. easy way to tell is it is hard to brake the GAS Type when you pull it, water one snaps easy, in the UK it was changed 25 / 30 years ago, please be safe .
I would run a spot for a furnace may be in the future you want to put one in, the line would run, On the other hand one less leak to have on the line too
You're a beast pulling that pipe through all of those floor joist holes! You know they're not perfectly straight so I bet that was not an easy feat! Well done!
We bought a 1,000-gal propane tank to go with our 500-gal propane take so that we will have plenty for our Generac Guardian generator and so that we will only have to buy propane one time when it's cheapest in the late summer.
I don't think you need to crimp the ferule with your channel locks. They get compressed by tightening them together with a wrench. Other than that, Good vid!
Would you have drilled a larger hole maybe and insulate the gas line from the wood with some foam just so there’s no wear and tear maybe no creaking sounds just thinking out loud thanks for the video
It comes as no surprise that the flex line leaked. It's garbage. You should always use black iron pipe for gas to prevent these kinds of problems. You're asking for big problems using flex gas line, especially in a basement or crawlspace.
How did you split the line to both appliances? Just use a T? Did you run 1/2" to the range? Do you up size the main supply line one step above the lines out to the appliances? I'm running one line to a cooktop and one line to a set of fireplace ventless logs.
maybe old but just looked up the cheetah system i dont like it maybe because im old fashioned in my 40's but for a do it yourselfer it cld be alright. like how a master plumber feels abought shark bites but if i ever found all that i wld grab it tho use it in basements or other places i cld change it out easily. if you used it how did it work out for you?
Confused; you said NO tape is to be used between the brass compression nut (presumably the one on the hose) and the fitting on the metal pipe, yet it's clear there's blue tape between those fittings when you attach the hose...?
It funny how people tell you what to do not knowing the local code. Do you have to have systems under pressure for inspection. Can't imagine that sewer with water in a freezing conditions.
Do you what the MAX test pressure for this Home Flex (fittings) is? My guy installed a gas system on a new house with a lot of black iron and mixed with some 1/2” Home Flex for the bbq and range lines and test gauge is leaking off slowly and we can’t find a leak anywhere. He tested at around 40-50 PSI when he was trying to get the leak to show and I’m now wondering if he may have damaged the fittings if there only rated at around 30-40 PSI. Thanks for any help.
needs bonding and i would never buy the csst from big box stores(or rather they shouldn't sell it) because as an HVAC tech, we are supposed to be certified to sell and install this material, one wrong connection and your new house is leveled.also your inspector should know enough that high pressure like 25 psi can actually seal a minor leak instead of showing a leak, we are told in our area that we only pressurize to 1 1/2 times the pressure the line will be under in normal circumstances which is in " water column not psi. the Flashshield by gastite also has a bonding mesh incorporated into it unlike the home depot stuff. Also gastite makes termination fittings for stubbing through the wall to eliminate as many leak points as possible.be careful in the house in the event of a lightning strike if you dont bond that ENTIRE gas line properly.
Is this flexible gas line code in Indiana? We are running a new line from the original black pipe to a new gas dryer. At the termination point of the dryer, is a rigid black pipe used with the shut off valve? Also, should the hookup location be near the floor or mid wall? Great video. Very professional! Thanks!!
Am I the only one that’s absolutely shook his apprentice hit a 50 psi main line? I’m sitting here weak af. Like I’ve had some bad days as a gas service apprentice but goddam. I’d straight up switch trades if I pulled some shit like that... Also, no shit gas code is yellow. If you haven’t arrived there yet you shouldn’t be watching this video or installing your own csst! It can be tricky , especially if you don’t use a cutter designed to cut csst. I was literally on a gas leak call today where a local contractor failed to cut his csst with the correct tubing cutter and the fitting was pouring out gas directly next to the furnace as a result. It saves lives to invest in the proper training and tools to complete the job. All I’m saying is take what the homie on UA-cam, who hires techs that don’t know the difference between gas and water lines, with a grain of salt. Do extensive research, buy the correct tools (as expensive as they may be) and assess the risks before installing your own csst gas lines... either that or research a good, reputable local gas contractor and give them your money instead. We charge good money and have a license for a reason. Fresh video tho
Dude I was born in 1991 😂😂😂😂 I don’t need to talk like I know it all or like I’m perfect in order to make my existence meaningful. In your comment you were bashing the apprentice who makes mistakes 😂😂😂😂. Idk who trained you but obviously they skipped the part where mistakes need to be made in order to grow idk who told you you need to get it right the first time. Or maybe you are perfect but that’s highly impossible because just by yoour comments I can already point out a few flaws of yours that you probably continue to apply in your life because you think you know everything. It’s a lot easier to teach someone who wants to learn an is flexible to understanding that he don’t know everything than trying to teach someone who thinks he knows everything. In order to be a good master you need to be a great student. So maybe you should take a few steps back an recollect yourself and remind yourself where you came from.
Your description says it leaked. But you don’t talk about where and what happened?
No kidding 😂 what a moron
4 years ago I watched this video when you first dropped it, I am getting ready to run the gas line for our house and the first thing I thought as I started to research the process was that I needed to come back and watch this again. Still a great video with lots of easy instruction. Thanks.
My first real job at 17 was plumber apprentice. My mom was dating a master plumber. It was new commercial plumbing. I wish we had that gas pipe and PEX for the water back then (1980). Tracking down and fixing the leaks on all the black steel pipe fittings was a nightmare. You are doing a great job. I'm plumbing my house by myself right now, also. A lot of the tricks are coming back to me, mostly after I do it wrong. LOL
Story of my life.
Life will be easier with a Pro Press by RIDGID. If you're remodeling- no more sweating the Copper Lines.
Just for future reference you should use a little pipe dope over the Teflon tape when making connections. It reduces friction between the tape and the threads which allows for a much better seal. For proof back out a fitting with just Teflon tape and you will see most of it is bunched up towards the outer most threads. Also you will notice much less force is needed to tighten a fitting when using pipe dope with tape. Due to less friction.
Red Poppy, no problem at all mixing electrical stuff. You just can't mix it in the panel you have to use the right breakers. Using different boxes or outlets doesn't effect anything. Use it and save yourself some money.
Good video, I use CSST quite often. Be careful with the red o-ring, real easy to cut it sliding over the end of CSST. Only one question, doesn’t CSST require a ground clamp on one end of your run? Better check codes, and what’s required by the manufacturer. Another suggestion, use wrenches not channel locks, right tool for the right job.
OMG! Thank you God damn no adjustable wrench. When you can use the adjustable wrench. The water pump plier is last resort and under stood for the thread fittings. Even then they have what is called adjustable pipe wrenches.
Im about to remove an old galvanized run in my garage that im converting to a din. Its external to the drywall so im putting it in the wall. My fear is that later on, someone may put a nail or screw through the line. Any suggestions?
Yes, CSST requires bonding and grounding wire or if there is a lightening strike nearby (does not have to be direct hit) the CSST can become the ground and burn a small hole in the CSST causing a flame torch and burning the house down. I'm curious if he installed one or not.
The additional bonding might not be required if the metal pipe was connected to a furnace that is already bonded via ground wire. @@CorbanCooper
I was a mechanical inspector until 3-08. I never signed off one initial rough inspection because not one person would install csst in concealed locations per the manufacturer's installation instructions.
Does csst need to be bonded? Theres a line added for an appliance. The house came with gas thats bonded already. Not sure if I need to bond it at the csst
@@punxnotdead3873 find the installation instructions. That will explain it all. I'm sure you could find your brand on the internet. More than likely, it will need to be bonded.
Gas utility guy here. Back when this stuff came out we had manufacturer training and cert cards issued. Suppliers weren't even sposed to sell to non certified fitters. Proper sizing is critical. A given nominal id csst will not pass anywhere near the same amount of gas as black iron hence for a given flow rate csst always needs to be larger than a black iron application. Cant tell you how many I found contractor ran undersized lines because they based size on black pipe sizing charts. CSST has manufacturer specfic flow rates at different pressures that must be faithfully adhered to. The corrugations offer quite a bit of resistance to flow. Also a lot of regs regarding nail plates and partition penetrations. I think you may have misspoke about running elevated pressures in residential applications. Elevated pressure is where csst becomes way more cost effective. Typical 2 psi system allows smaller tubing to be used (cheaper) but requires a second pressure cut indoors before serving equipment.
In South Africa you must use a licenced gas fitter and he must issue a certificate. If you don't have a certificate and have an isurance claim the company will not pay out. I also know that you have to have a brass connector if you go through the timber into a cupboard or any timber rafters ....more chance for leaks.
What happens if you underside gas lines?
@TSammut0219 depends on how undersized the line is. At best, equipment will be firing at a lower rate and not perform as designed. At worst it can cause delayed ignition (boom on start), improper combustion, soot, etc.
When I worked at a plumbing company we had to do gas line repairs in trailers down in the crawl space with all the black widow spiders. We would pressurize the system and pray to god we would see no soapy bubbles on our joints and connections under there, and that the pressure gauge never moved.
As long as got it inspected and your local inspector is happy. All good.
Your vid is very good, I know for a fact that it is a lot of work, but you actually make it look relaxing and satisfying.
Very clever how you minimized the leak risk by not using fittings on the turn going to the water heater.
I noticed that you strapped the pipe at the T for the black pipe going outside, also noticed that there was no siding on the exterior walls with it means that: "if vinyl siding will be used on this application" nails will be used for that.
What is the recommended clearance between the OSB and the gas line to guarantee the siding nails will not perforate the pipe? Thank you.
gotta love it every one knows exactly what u should've done!!!! I think you are killing it stay after it brother
When we built, we figured we would only need propane for the stove and water heater as well. We used only wood for heat for four years, but then we had to use electric heaters when we were out of town, and when everyone was sick, it was real hard to tend a fire with the flu. We ended up putting in a Empire ultra efficient space heater that actually heats the entire house, and now we can use either/or. It's nice to have the heat come on in the morning without stoking the stove!
I put in a no-ox propane heater a few years ago for redunt backup heating, i love it, also have solar radiant system, and wood stove, and mini-split, off grid, good from 0-100 degrees comfy all the time...
You make it seem so easy, nice to see a guy beat the high costs of tradesmen and still do it right. Great video and info.. thanks for the lessons.
UNLESS YOUR A LICENSED PLUMBER, DONT TOUCH GAS
@@cannonplumbinganddrainllc4221 i wouldn't recommend anyone to work with gas but there are millions of handy homeowners who can do this just as good as a licensed plumber
@@nateg5915 yeah but if that person is not licensed or insured and something happens, not good for that individual, they had a handyman in Austin who thought he was good too but due to his lack of knowledge and inexperience he blew a house up, luckily no one was hurt, if your not licensed dont touch it, i see the plumbing board deal with people like this all the time and if i abide by the rules and pay my dues i hold them to that as well, i love calling in on unlicensed idiots
@@nateg5915 if theyre good enough then get a license
@@nateg5915 i would recommend calling a licensed plumbing company period, i love working with natural and LP gas, thats why theres an M in front of my number bud, MASTER PLUMBER M-40870
Most of the house fires I go on that don't go out are due to lighting strikes and this type of pipe losing its integrity through small pin holes. If your house gets struck turn your gas off and have your lines tested somehow.
This is why you need to ground it with 4 gauge copper wire!
One thing on the insulation, you have 2x4's and that does not allow for thicker insulation unless you add a second layer on the inside. Only one thing I would have done different, but it costs more is use 2X6 studs on the outside so I could get more insulation, but one way around this is use insulation board on the inside or on the outside wall as even in places where it is too dry to snow during the winter such as where I am that does make up for the cost of the insulation based on the cost of heating alone. It is possible to be cost effective in the cost of heating in just ONE year.
Most heat loss is up and out of a structure. It depends on his insulation, spray foam no 2x6 needed. If you can stop the air from outside coming in that half the battle. No air infiltration, not much heat loss. You can’t pull a vacuum on a house.
his walls use 2x6 studs
A gas outlet outside will let you setup an outdoor kitchen for those times cooking inside would be insane (summer) or times you have lots of stuff off the garden to prep and can.
High pressure setups can also be in places for things like backup generators as they can suck down propane.
You are making serious headway. Why don’t you drop a truck load of big gravel in the entrance of your driveway to the house. You will have to sooner or later. The sooner the better. 👍 Vinny 🇺🇸
putting in gravel is generally a permanent thing as removing the gravel from soil is a hard task so is best done when you know exactly where you want a driveway.
I need to move som more dirt around and build the drive way up first. It will happen this summer for sure.
Would it be worth it to put in drain tile under the driveway/yard to prevent it from becoming the mud pit in the spring or would the ground still turn to mud as it thaws out?
The good news is you have all the fill dirt you could want on that hill and you already need to dig out to find that spring.
Andrew H Ii
2 years ago they announced going to robot arms instead of moving slag manually...assuming the tractor you mention was part of it being moved manually. Not exposing employees to hot slag is a win, but some will probably complain it's a loss of an entry level job despite a tech to operate the robot being hired.
So glad no one was hurt and also awesome that the color codes saved you... note...
Nice video and informative but I was taught early on in my plumbing apprenticeship; always use 2 wrenches when tightening anything!
You're right- if you don't use a Back- Up Wrench- you're going to break something. He's an Unlicensed Plumber.
Everything was cool till I saw the channel locks on every fitting.....sorry...I can't get past it
I have to install this stuff at the family cabin, never used it before. Thanks for the guide!
The end of the CSST should be taped over before pulling it. It only takes one fleck of wood or dirt in there to clog your gas valve some cold winter night when it is drawing hard. Pushing open pipe through joists and studs is a bad practice.
Also USE those anti pierce tabs to keep from getting a nail or screw into the pipe .
Thank god for channel locks , another pliers mechanic , two wrenches for tightening pipe!!
Need to spend more time on the different connections, and hou to make them. Use close ups so we can see the actual connection being made.
WOW - that gas line story was crazy - THAT could have been a disaster - glad it turned out ok for you Bro !!
I see that you use a knuckle buster wrench to tighten fittings. I call them that because if it slips that is what will happen. regular pipe wrench is safer. Main thing is that you do what works for you, and that the finished does not leak. I prefer to use black pipe, and flex only at the connections, but that can take longer. Also you can leave the line under test for longer than the specified, but not less. Also that is a great idea leaving the gauge on the line. Also I use NG in my home, and that never goes over .5 lbs.
Up here in Ontario Canada every point you have a Connection they make you put a trap. Is it the same there? I imagine that it would go outside of the drywall. That yellow stuff looks real nice to work with. I know working with black pipe can be a real treat. It looks good things are going fast. One step closer to the prize 🏆
Im not to far from him and am a General contractor. Yes we are required to use sediment traps at appliances.
With floor joices that close together you might as well use wrought/black iron pipe and fittings. Plus it helps to use a fine metal file around the cut edge for a better seal.
Another great plumbing job, Heath. If you lived close, I would contact you to put in a hot water tank for me. I remember seeing a video of that road. You will need lots of gravel for it.
At a previous home this same yellow flex line was installed, no stainless was visible at the gas fittings.
My existing home has the same flex line and the gas fittings appear similar to this video. Just a bit of stainless exposed.
A Rinnai water heater was installed later and that plumber said no stainless should be visible otherwise the brass and stainless will interact causing corrosion.
All three installations were done by licensed plumbers.
?
Also you could have used the stub out 90° elbow with square metal mounting plate that's welded together, and the flexible nail guard slinky above the gas tite connection near the stub out.
i have heard you cannot put that type of pipe behind drywall in Michigan.....is that true?????
Be very cautious using any with rubber O-ring seals within. Parker is a brand that uses brass on stainless to deform the end to a flare that is automatically flared when the fitting is put together. There are a few brands that utilises a rubber O ring internally to complete the seal. That may be ok if and only if that fitting stays in an area that is accessible and repair can be made. When in doubt a solid mechanical seal can't be beat.
@Red Poppy Ranch Heath, I have been with your channel since nearly the beginning and I do remember when you found that windfall of electrical components at the dump, I'm still in awe of your ability to find steals 'n deals! Congrats on the tractor, I look forward to seeing what you've found.
When you mention the condition of the road, it makes me wonder; when the time comes for your family to move into the house, what will you do about mail delivery? Will USPS (or any other delivery company) deliver to the ranch? Will you establish an address (or is there an address already assigned) for your property?
We will likly do a PO Box but they will deliver to the end of the road.
Very educational. I may not be building a house like what you did, but I’m learning a lot of stuff which I will use in the future to fix something at home.
code requires testing pressure to be 1 and half times the working pressure and that pressure is 14" water column or 0.505277 pounds per square inch, so your test pressure can be min 3 psi. a 1 to 10 psi gauge would be ideal.
Love this guy, find Peace or die trying. Keep grinding
I would or have like to see a close-up preparation and installation of the fitting. Fittings are money too, but as an auto tech who had serious surgery got stuck working for UTI. They bounced me from room to room teaching as $12k a year made it hard to keep instructors. They just found that I had 5 years as install & diagnostic tech for a local HVACR company. Many classes from manufacturers but before the stainless flex was invented and sold.
It’s funny to think of the family farm where my younger brother and I took turns shooting food cans we sat on the 2k propane tank behind the garage in the early 70’s. Strange to think a new house, pour concrete basement with 3 bed, 1 bath and sump-pump cost $26,300 in 1963. Oh ya, they used copper pipe back then from tank to appliance drops.
Run a line to the yard for a bbq's or a firepit while you are going this.
Outdoor flex isn't the same as what is being used here. There's a new requirement that must accommodate for potential lightening strikes.
It's called bonding and grounding. They do make special outdoor/underground CSST for the purpose of running gas lines to a BBQ pit etc.
With all the ladder and step work you have done in this build, you must have leg muscles like Russian weightlifter!!
Female Russian wrestler……
The end cuts are crucial on flex gas lines the yellow plastic needs to be cut back as well as cutting a smooth end to the stainless a pipe cutter is recommended as the brass ring just pulls the face end up against the brass taper for the seal.
I wouldn't think the inspector would allow a gas appliance under the stairway. I enjoy your videos.
The water heater has a side vent.
Invention Development Nice, non-insulting comment.
Thanks for sharing RPR! Really impressed with your professional and clean install! Good stuff. Cheers from Motown!
Up here in the Canada we don't have no white Teflon for gas eh, usually it's yellow or we just use pipe dope. White Teflon for air and water only is what I was taught. And I'd put a piece of tape over the end of that line so no debris may violate your gas pipe eh. Nice clean install though, looks good.
tell us the story about that evacuation!!! I'm invested in that story! *subscribed*
geeze.... that cut gas pipe was a nightmare for you im guessing. glad it worked out. I own my small business and things like that scare
me
I’m not in ur business but any new knucklehead can screw something up in a heartbeat and cause me weeks of pain.
Only suppose to tighten 3/4 of a turn after getting it hand tight. I have to do 20 for 20 and never fail a test. never leaks when installed correctly. Over-tightening will ruin the gasket and cause leaks.
There is a high torque requirement for seating the gasket. Much higher that regular steel pipe.
I see you have a Laundry Room. That's going to be a lot of laundry for five children. I was wondering if Cedar could use a propane gas dryer. Anyhow, great job going on!
p.s. the AltE UA-cam site really breaks down how to size a solar system. The video series (22) I am referring to is called "Off Grid Solar Power System Design." If you watch the first five videos, you will know how to size your entire system. I am taking notes right now. This series is a Golden Nugget in solar design. Amy Beaudet also shows you how to hook up the system in some of the other videos of that 22-video series.
I will likely add a line for the dryer up there. We talked about it and have since decided to do it.
Thanks for considering my suggestion. There's just one more critical item as I comb through the numerous number crunching on solar panels. The example AltE uses is for a 2,400 Watt system (probably near $5,000), four 315 Watt panels, four 24V batteries (two in series + two parallel strings). I notice our new refrigerator sucks up 1500 Watts/day (25.2 cu ft). That only leaves you with 900 Watts for the house. I have to decide if I would get a propane fridge instead, so I can free up those 2,400 Watts for all other stuff. I don't know the answer yet. I do know if you double your solar system, you double the cost. I am leaning towards a propane fridge, instead of spending $10k on a solar system. Just thought I'd mention the fridge before you button up the gas line. The point being, does one want an electric fridge or a propane fridge? It boils down to using microwaves, coffee makers, toasters, etc. Based on my habits, I supspect I'd use a propane fridge. Over and out!
The maintenance men at my factory use yellow pipe dope made for propane and natural gas for connections.
So, the ceiling connection, was the run too long for a single run pull with one person? Or did your bought length make it necessary to splice two pipes together somewhere anyway? Sure glad you knew enough to know there are different Teflon tapes for different applications. Great job! You're getting closer and closer to "move in day".
You must be grateful for having professional plumbing experience!
With that first tee I just assumed you were making a drip leg. I thought why is he putting that drip leg through a hole in the wall. It took a second for me to process it.
It’s interesting how many variations there are on gas pressure testing considering there’s only two codes. Some places only require a little over the operating pressure. I’m in Austin and they require 30 psi for 15 min for low pressure systems and 60 psi for med to high pressure systems.
Gas tite is pretty expensive stuff but it definitely is nice when you need it. In your case where you have to go between joists and only have a couple of fixtures it’s wonderful. If you were paying a plumber, you’d make up that extra cost by saving on labor easily. However when you have houses with gas dryers, water heaters, furnaces, stoves, etc. and everything is under the house or in the attic, it’s definitely cheaper to use black iron especially with mega press.
We’re not allowed to secure gas tite in the wall except where the stub out is. The reason is for nail protection because it’s so thin unlike black iron. If it’s allowed to be loose it will be pushed out of the way by a nail or screw but when it’s secured it will be penetrated.
I just did the same thing in OH. The city refused to hook up the meter due to having the yellow indoors.
For gas you need more then teflon you should use both or at least just pipe dope usually anything over 3/4 i use both
So u mean that u can use this flexible gas line in walls I was told it was not recommended & that I shouldn't..👍👍👍nice work
I’m a Tennant connecting a gas line for a furnace. My apartments main gas line is 1/2” all I have is 3/8 pvc, my buddy says it’s better to use steel and pvc is not compatible for gas. I don’t see the difference 🙄
My question is the 3/8 is too small to fit the nipple. Is it acceptable using the pipe tape to build up the smaller plastic pipe and thread it on the larger steel gas pipe? It gas checks with no leaks and plastic won’t spark. So far the heater has been phenomenal. If you want a recommendation for a wall heater pm me. Peace.
Hi I enjoyed your video, I have a question did you install a 1”inch gas pipe or 3/4”inch gas pipe in your house
Great job......it's really starting to take shape now.
As a European it is so strange to see gas lines running in the ceiling when it's used on the ground floor. Here the Netherlands is a building code to run those under the house and have them come up through the floor where it is needed.. say the kitchen
So am I right in thinking a propane tanker will come down the "Road of Endeavour" and fill your system periodically? With your skills you must have thought about heating a water tank with heat from the wood burner, and save on propane. Why did you not do this, I'm curious as to your thought processes? Always a big supporter, wishing you and yours the best.
Burning wood for hot water is wildly inefficient lol
Check with your state the yellow CSST from Home Depot is not approved for use in Massachusetts, even though it’s up sold in Home Depots here, I have had to pull it out Of a few jobs where it was installed and replaced with the black coated track-pipe.
Nicely produced. Is that 1/2 or 3/4 inch?
when you come back in the morning (around 7 am) psi will drop 3-5 psi from lower temp. at night time
P2 = P1{ T2/T1}
Propane tanks on ag running gear are common here. Might be useful as the nonprimary tank (multiples not run in parallel here) if the supply truck will only meet you at the end of the gravel road. Old NH3 tanks can sometimes be converted.
omg amateur you did everything wrong.. first off you NEVER put the Teflon on clockwise with your right hand while in direct sunlight - according to building code you NEVER ever do that trust me i'm a journeyman tube snapper for over 3 years - just kidding good job on the house, looks great and awesome video, it answered my questions I had for my next project .. like and sub'd
tube snapper....lol
Your second fail is u do not Teflon tape propane lines only if it’s over 1 1/2 black pipe just dope it
Atleast in north Carolina you can not drill holes in floor Joyce
Holy crap 25-30lbs?! That's insane, most systems where I live are .5 to 2lbs max! Main lines from gas company is max 50lbs.
Its for the pressure test to make sure it doesn't leak. It isn't the gas pressure.
Hi ,i notice that the PTFE tape is in a blue sleve, this is WATER fitting only , There is a yellow sleved one for GAS, The water one will biodegrade with the GAS chemicals.
easy way to tell is it is hard to brake the GAS Type when you pull it, water one snaps easy, in the UK it was changed 25 / 30 years ago, please be safe .
Evelyn Woodcock the brand “blue monster”he is using is rated for gas propane also!
It's rated for gas.
better safe than sorry.
If its Blue Monster brand- its rated for Gas Lines.
This was an excellent video. It's obvious you really know what you're talking about.
I would run a spot for a furnace may be in the future you want to put one in, the line would run, On the other hand one less leak to have on the line too
You're a beast pulling that pipe through all of those floor joist holes! You know they're not perfectly straight so I bet that was not an easy feat! Well done!
With most CSST installation the holes drilled should be 1.5x the OD of the CSST used. Check installation manual
We bought a 1,000-gal propane tank to go with our 500-gal propane take so that we will have plenty for our Generac Guardian generator and so that we will only have to buy propane one time when it's cheapest in the late summer.
I don't think you need to crimp the ferule with your channel locks. They get compressed by tightening them together with a wrench. Other than that, Good vid!
Would you have drilled a larger hole maybe and insulate the gas line from the wood with some foam just so there’s no wear and tear maybe no creaking sounds just thinking out loud thanks for the video
Nice, i am going to pre drill holes in my rafters for this stuff.
Hello great video I have old gas line that should have been removed at the of renovation . How do you bleed gas from the line safely thanks
Most all propane lines inside home run ½ pound of pressure. Or is measured in 14" W.C.
It comes as no surprise that the flex line leaked. It's garbage. You should always use black iron pipe for gas to prevent these kinds of problems. You're asking for big problems using flex gas line, especially in a basement or crawlspace.
Being a plumber do you have a thankless hot water heater?
Is there any particular reason why you are not installing a gas dryer?
How did you split the line to both appliances? Just use a T? Did you run 1/2" to the range? Do you up size the main supply line one step above the lines out to the appliances? I'm running one line to a cooktop and one line to a set of fireplace ventless logs.
maybe old but just looked up the cheetah system i dont like it maybe because im old fashioned in my 40's but for a do it yourselfer it cld be alright. like how a master plumber feels abought shark bites but if i ever found all that i wld grab it tho use it in basements or other places i cld change it out easily. if you used it how did it work out for you?
Confused; you said NO tape is to be used between the brass compression nut (presumably the one on the hose) and the fitting on the metal pipe, yet it's clear there's blue tape between those fittings when you attach the hose...?
Between the iron pipe and the brass fitting you use teflon. Between the brass fitting and the stainless gas line you dont use teflon.
Awesome video. So glad teflon is used. Hope proper pipe sizing was done. Either way, great video!
It funny how people tell you what to do not knowing the local code. Do you have to have systems under pressure for inspection. Can't imagine that sewer with water in a freezing conditions.
Yes I had trouble with this yellow stuff too
Gas test time up here is 3 hours, man thats a huge difference
3 hours?? wow...around here most inspectors 5-10 psi for 15 minutes ad were good to go.
Thank you for the great video. Using this on my remodel.
Excellent video tutorial! Almost everything I needed to know for what I need to do! Thanks!
thats a lot of almond joys back there
Do you what the MAX test pressure for this Home Flex (fittings) is? My guy installed a gas system on a new house with a lot of black iron and mixed with some 1/2” Home Flex for the bbq and range lines and test gauge is leaking off slowly and we can’t find a leak anywhere. He tested at around 40-50 PSI when he was trying to get the leak to show and I’m now wondering if he may have damaged the fittings if there only rated at around 30-40 PSI.
Thanks for any help.
I wish I could make a find like that. I'm working on an out building and I need some electrical stuff!
needs bonding and i would never buy the csst from big box stores(or rather they shouldn't sell it) because as an HVAC tech, we are supposed to be certified to sell and install this material, one wrong connection and your new house is leveled.also your inspector should know enough that high pressure like 25 psi can actually seal a minor leak instead of showing a leak, we are told in our area that we only pressurize to 1 1/2 times the pressure the line will be under in normal circumstances which is in " water column not psi. the Flashshield by gastite also has a bonding mesh incorporated into it unlike the home depot stuff. Also gastite makes termination fittings for stubbing through the wall to eliminate as many leak points as possible.be careful in the house in the event of a lightning strike if you dont bond that ENTIRE gas line properly.
Is this flexible gas line code in Indiana? We are running a new line from the original black pipe to a new gas dryer. At the termination point of the dryer, is a rigid black pipe used with the shut off valve? Also, should the hookup location be near the floor or mid wall? Great video. Very professional! Thanks!!
CSST is legal to use in all (50) States. Check with your local code official for any amendments in your area.
I want to run some underground to my patio area. Cannot find any vids on this but I plan on putting it inside schedule 40 to protect it. Any advice?
I learn a bunch watching you sir. Thanks for that. The electrical is what I've been waiting for. :) Keep up the good work!
Is there a chance of getting saw dust in the Gas line ? Keep up the good work.
I tried not to let it happen but it could. I will put in a drop leg a t each appliance to catch anything in the pipe.
Am I the only one that’s absolutely shook his apprentice hit a 50 psi main line? I’m sitting here weak af. Like I’ve had some bad days as a gas service apprentice but goddam. I’d straight up switch trades if I pulled some shit like that... Also, no shit gas code is yellow. If you haven’t arrived there yet you shouldn’t be watching this video or installing your own csst! It can be tricky , especially if you don’t use a cutter designed to cut csst. I was literally on a gas leak call today where a local contractor failed to cut his csst with the correct tubing cutter and the fitting was pouring out gas directly next to the furnace as a result. It saves lives to invest in the proper training and tools to complete the job. All I’m saying is take what the homie on UA-cam, who hires techs that don’t know the difference between gas and water lines, with a grain of salt. Do extensive research, buy the correct tools (as expensive as they may be) and assess the risks before installing your own csst gas lines... either that or research a good, reputable local gas contractor and give them your money instead. We charge good money and have a license for a reason. Fresh video tho
All I heard on this comment was blah blah blah I’m a big bragger
@@rubenllamas5644 you probably do your own gas plumbing too so it’s all good
Well I’m a second generation general contractor so yes I think I should know how to properly run a gas line. Don’t talk about it be about it.
@@rubenllamas5644 All I heard was blah blah blah I’m an old man
Dude I was born in 1991 😂😂😂😂
I don’t need to talk like I know it all or like I’m perfect in order to make my existence meaningful. In your comment you were bashing the apprentice who makes mistakes 😂😂😂😂. Idk who trained you but obviously they skipped the part where mistakes need to be made in order to grow idk who told you you need to get it right the first time. Or maybe you are perfect but that’s highly impossible because just by yoour comments I can already point out a few flaws of yours that you probably continue to apply in your life because you think you know everything. It’s a lot easier to teach someone who wants to learn an is flexible to understanding that he don’t know everything than trying to teach someone who thinks he knows everything. In order to be a good master you need to be a great student. So maybe you should take a few steps back an recollect yourself and remind yourself where you came from.
Would love to hear fitting tightening training from a skilled pipe fitter. Maybe include some of this next time you do a piping vid. Thanks.
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