You must ground gas pipe when using CSST gas line. Make sure you have ground bonding wire to gas line. The reason is when lightning strikes, arc can jump between grooves or nearby grounded object and punch a hole through thin CSST.
I’ve seen it first hand house was struck by lightning and a 12-2 wire was touching the trac pipe, burned a bee bee sized hole right through the pipe. Luckily the homeowner was there and smelled the gas right away.
@@bluejay713 it just needs to be bonded somewhere within the system. Doesn't have to be at the meter. When CSST is added after drywall is on, bonding is usually done at or near CSST transition to make ground bonding visible for the inspector.
@@bluejay713 If the gas pipe was bonded to ground when the house was built, then it usually will be at the point of entry. Gas meter is usually outside around here and never seen gas pipe bonded outside. It probably is because pipe outside is painted. If the meter is inside, then I have seen them grounded there since it is the point of entry.
I would actually recommend using a deburring tool over the file for cleaning up that lip on the flex pipe. Takes just a few seconds and gives you a clean edge. EDIT for clarification: A hand deburring tool, not the kind you put on a drill.
Only took my electrician self about 40 years to learn the correct term for what you called the vallies. Guy from UL labs told us for type AC ( BX ) & MC cable they are called convolutions And yes that & $2 or 3 will get you a cheap coffee..
When filing never let your filings fall inside your gas line (or any line). You have regulators down line that won't like that. (pressure regulator not a person).
Another point. 11:21 There's no sediment trap. Elbow needed to be a "tee" fitting. So much for the title of this video "You've Been Installing Home Flex Gas Pipe Wrong This Whole Time." Same mistake at 08:10
Agree 100%, but measuring, cutting and threading steel pipe actually requires knowledge, skill and a bit of work. Exact opposite of the state of this country.
looks neater too less likely to get damaged, cheaper. bonding electricly flex looks horrid but its faster. nothing wrong with it I just prefer the black
I like the trick of rolling over the sharp edge. That way the packing gets compressed not sliced. Maybe I missed it but I didn't see any sediment traps.
08:10 Absolutely spot on. There's no sediment trap. Elbow needed to be a "tee" fitting. So much for the title of this video "You've Been Installing Home Flex Gas Pipe Wrong This Whole Time."
I agree. 11:21 There's no sediment trap. Elbow needed to be a "tee" fitting. So much for the title of this video "You've Been Installing Home Flex Gas Pipe Wrong This Whole Time." Same mistake at 08:10
@@briansmyla8696 that’s not true. In my local jurisdiction here in College Station, TX the city enforces the sediment trap. We put it in or it’s a $100 red tag.
@@ElPescadorTejano Local codes may require it, but I don't believe that the national code does. It's a relic from the days of wet, contaminated gas supply.
@@ElPescadorTejano UPC uses the phrase 'other than dry gas conditions' for many requirements, including the requirement for a sediment trap. Which implies that dry gas conditions are assumed in most cases, and 'other than dry gas conditions' is a rare exception. Sediment traps are required by code only in 'other than dry gas conditions'. Dry gas is assumed and expected in today's gas delivery systems. 'Other than dry gas conditions' is a relic of bygone days.
Would love to see you touch on the importance of grounding when using this type of material. Alot of DIYers follow your lead and they just don't know. To important to not mention
Retired sparky and maybe 8 years ago at a continuing education class they told us that each manufacturer has thier own way of bonding their SS corrugated tubing. I had a friend that needed the new half ass of it installed on top of 2.5" thin base board that had dents in it from being hit with vacuum cleaner to be bonded. I called the city owner Gas Company and they told me that I only had to run a wire from copper water service to steel gas line preferably where pipes enter the house. Did that and it was approved but I think it would be safer to run a #6 or 8 guage solid copper wire from steel gas pipe to a fitting in tubing then to where it connects at other end. If it was my house would have insisted on schedule 40 steel pipe to be ran on top of baseboard. Was in a basement rec room to feed a corner gas fire place.
BIG MISTAKE at 11:21 There's no sediment trap. Elbow needed to be a "tee" fitting. So much for the title of this video "You've Been Installing Home Flex Gas Pipe Wrong This Whole Time." Same mistake at 08:10
Prone to failure because it really depends on the person installing it. Doing it right and doing it half-ass is a very fine line here I'm not too sure trusting even pros to get the fitting correct without worrying any potential issues down the road.
You should really call a licensed professional when dealing with gas. Most other things I think a DYI’er can do. But when you are dealing with an extremely dangerous fuel; I would ⚠️ recommend you call a licensed plumber or propane installer. I’ve been in a gas explosion before and I’m telling you. The last thing you want to do is have your house go 💥 because you didn’t want to spend the 💰 for a pro. There’s a reason that certain things can’t be purchased by Joe Public and are protected behind a license. If you do your own work, please check several times before you leaving it, and check the entire gas system not just what you worked on. Nice video
I agree. 11:21 There's no sediment trap. Elbow needed to be a "tee" fitting. So much for the title of this video "You've Been Installing Home Flex Gas Pipe Wrong This Whole Time." Same mistake at 08:10
Yeah, not sure how much value there is to this comment. You can certainly buy the same materials at local hardware stores to DIY anything in a house. The only thing you can't do are initial utility hook-ups. Having someone else who's in the business of doing this, doesn't necessarily remove the risk. I've seen shoddy electrical work done by "pros" before. Years ago, most of these things were done by "Joe Public". It's only since around the late 70s where people stopped doing things for themselves and farmed out the work to a local "professional". This Old House with Bob Villa was a show out there showing folks how to be a DIYer before DIY was "cool", including utility installations from the meter bases and on. Reason nobody wants to spend money on a pro these days is mostly due to the current cost of living, and prices a lot of these professionals want. 4 hours labor for an upgrade on my gas line, just to run from meter base, down to an existing line, about 60 feet and 2 shutoff valves... was over $1,000. It was more expensive than the material. Don't get sucked into a false positive because your work was done by a professional. They're human too and while great, are subjective to making mistakes as well.
Great presentation. If you can cover any coding issues and things like bonding/sediment traps. We had the same type of gaskets in aircraft... flanges with nicks or bad gaskets always leaked 👍
You create awesome videos. Glad you go into details like how to make it flush with the fitting. But I think music is too loud. Please post more videos!
All new homes, I connect to gas have black csst. It has a layer of rubber over the tubing, then a steel mesh over that and then the outer layer of vinyl covering. It is because of lightning protection and needs to be bonded to ground. I don’t believe Iowa, Nebraska or South Dakota allow the yellow on new construction. I’d be surprised any other state allows it. Lightning burns holes through it!
My house got struck by lightning at the chimney, the strike seemed to go down to the CSST where it then arc'd over to 12/2 electrical wire. It put a tiny nail-sized hole in the CSST where it began to act as a flame thrower and burn the floor joists and subfloor. We got lucky and this happened near an outdoor water spigot which had copper fittings that melted and extinguished the fire. Another house in the neighborhood got hit about a year earlier and was a total loss but we just had about $50k worth of damages. I believe code changes regarding grounding and proximity of CSST to electrical wire. When they repaired it we had them take out all of the CSST and replace it with iron pipe.
Get the stuff from Lowe’s. Has same washer but also an o ring for double the protection from leaks. Never let me down. Make sure to do proper grounding.
You forgot to bond the flex to panel ground with #6 wire. The reason is to provide a path for lightning current. You can use a nearby water pipe ONLY if the water pipe is bonded to PANEL ground. (use an ohm meter between the ground pin of an outlet and your pipe) ua-cam.com/video/7QiNMnDdXQ8/v-deo.html
Good stuff but I noticed you don't have any "Sediment or Dirt traps" at your furnace, water heater on the gas lines. If the gas company ever works on your gas main in your neighborhood and dirt enters the main line or if rust is ever created on old pipes or from home repairs like running new lines those pieces of dirt (flakes of dirt and rust) will flow through you line and into your gas regulators on your water heater, furnace, etc. and can block and ruin them internally. The traps are very easy to make for a few dollars for pipe and a cap. From what i've read in some states they are mandatory when licensed repairs are done.
dont use the rigid gas flex cutters with the yellow knob. they have these rings that are supposed to hold the cutter in that one groove but all they do is egg the pipe and then it doesnt compress correctly even if you try to un-egg it with pliers. or just it will push and stretch the corregations down the pipe they are supposed to protect. use cutters that have some flat rolling bar. my team was wondering what was going so horribly wrong, we changed cutters and suddenly all of our connections were holding.
great pro tip (the file method ) for home flex Question what do you do about bonding the csst and if so can it be bonded to the water main which gets bonded to the service panel
National Grid does not allow the Flex gas pipe. I was red flagged for it. The reasoning, I was told, is lightning strikes can cause pin hole leaks... I pressed X to doubt.
@@gallowaylightsWater line grounding isn't even legal for the cable company. They inspected my utilities, Red flagged the items and said see ya. I think it was a liability release for the company, they won't re-inspect after I fixed the issues.
@@bigblue2216 it's so interesting how everything is connected together... at the pannel (neutral and ground), at that 3' rod into the ground "earth ground" at gas and water lines "bonding" at a light bulb "filament" in a pinched wire "short" etc.
BIG MISTAKE at 11:21 There's no sediment trap. Elbow needed to be a "tee" fitting. So much for the title of this video "You've Been Installing Home Flex Gas Pipe Wrong This Whole Time." Same mistake at 08:10
@4:17 - I was taught to turn it the opposite way. The part that does not have the knob follows in the turning, not leading. Otherwise, i twill want to walk itselt out of the line, which is what happened to you.
Great work. Like to see your use of crescent wrenches on large fittings. But at approx. frame 11:22 you held the fitting with a wedged crescent wrench but tightened the flex piping with slip-joint pliers. Would not a crescent wrench have been a better choice? At least you are not like some U-Tube plumbers that seem to use nothing but slip-joint pliers on everything. Even chrome plated fixtures in many cases.
You said you were going to create a manifold to run the csst from. I see no evidence of that. Why would you replace the black iron with a much, much less reliable system ? Another thing is csst is not a flexible connector and should never be used to directly connect to an appliance. You’re supposed to do a pressure test on the whole system, when you are done. You will need to show the INSPECTOR the test before you can turn on anything! The instructions for every csst pipe tell you to cut back the plastic coating before cutting the steel. You also used the wrong cutter. They make a cutter for this pipe that will not create the jagged edge that you got.
Bonding a CSST line is imperative, not grounding. Any appliance that functions by thermostat, must have sediment trap. Any gas line longer than 1 foot must be pressure tested via air or non-flammable gas like nitrogen (minimum 15 psi). CSST line has started many house fires ! This is not a place to DIY.
0 leaks? at 4 ounces pressure (much residential gas in homes is usually 4 ounces pressure), you're joking..right?????most codes require you to test it at 50 times that high to check for leaks. With a "proper leak test',..(meaning something like 15 pounds pressure for 24 hours) homeflex caused us enough problems that we finally threw the leftover out and went back to black pipe,..and when flex is required in some instances,..we use a competitors flex. WE prefer to run hard pipe. Some jobs we've been required to run a test of 125 pounds pressure...held for a week. If you call homeflex they will tell you that their pipe will not hold 125 psi. I believe many years ago,..I had them on the phone, and they told me that even at their mfg. facility...the max pressure they test at is 37 psi. And in the same sentence he told me never to run that high of pressure in it even for testing. I think he told me 25 psi max.
@@diyhvacguy . Me, and an employee, prepped, tested, pulled apart, prepped again, etc., Nearly wasted a full day,..And I was on the phone with their office (or whatever you want to call it) more than once during that time. I always assume I am doing it incorrectly until I know different. The muckymuck on the other end of the line finally said that it would hold pressure at the pressure level residences are at (4 oz? are you kidding) ,..so why was I worrying? (That's when I knew I was talking to a pseudo plumber who was never licensed..I am licensed in California, which is where homeflex is at..I think they are near Magic Mountain) How can you work on ONE SINGLE homeflex run all day, putting it under test each time. Use new fittings (technically I should call them adapters) and pipe each time. I've ran miles and miles of pipe in my life. You can come show me,..and we will make a video. I would be very happy to find out that I could somehow make it hold 15 to 25 pounds for a few days. The ONE THING that I would have liked to do,..was to use some pipe dope on the sealing surface,...but the instructions stated not to do this,..and so did the guy on the phone. I hope they change their mind. When we absolutely have to use flex,. we use tracpipe or proflex. We test at 15 psi or higher and then give it a few days.
08:10 There's no sediment trap. Elbow needed to be a "tee" fitting. So much for the title of this video "You've Been Installing Home Flex Gas Pipe Wrong This Whole Time."
The primary reason I wanted it was for that long section that goes out to my back deck and garage. That would have been a royal pain to do in black pipe.
So is this ss how does this pipe and fittings compare to the pipe and fittings the gas fiters use flex pipe looks the same but the fittings are different as the ones the plumber use the pipe goes inside the coupler and the ring is 2 half parts of the ring also the flex pipe is stainless steel with the plastic cover on it you say they can be bought online can you also buy the professional fittings online as well
I prefer black pipe over a bunch of extension cords like you have here. Flex line like that is really should be used for behind a gas stove or from the hot water tank to black pipe, which is less than 2 feet. Also at 9:45 you were filing and getting all the debris inside the flex line gas line. You should be doing it a better way.
People have problems putting in black pipe with gas, this would be harder. I have seen plastic pipe used underground to swimming pool heaters, but only outdoors never inside. I would never have this in my home, I couldn’t sleep at night……..
11:21 There's no sediment trap. Elbow needed to be a "tee" fitting. So much for the title of this video "You've Been Installing Home Flex Gas Pipe Wrong This Whole Time." Same mistake at 08:10
Yeah you gotta ream it and ground it. That’s why you’re supposed to be certified to run the stuff. When it first came out we ran it like wildfire, now that I’m calling the shots we run all hard pipe. Was never a fan of it.
You must ground gas pipe when using CSST gas line. Make sure you have ground bonding wire to gas line. The reason is when lightning strikes, arc can jump between grooves or nearby grounded object and punch a hole through thin CSST.
I think there is a black CSST that is arc safe
@@lrc87290 that is made for exterior uses, but I believe it still requires ground bonding. Not exactly sure though.
I’ve seen it first hand house was struck by lightning and a 12-2 wire was touching the trac pipe, burned a bee bee sized hole right through the pipe. Luckily the homeowner was there and smelled the gas right away.
@@bluejay713 it just needs to be bonded somewhere within the system. Doesn't have to be at the meter. When CSST is added after drywall is on, bonding is usually done at or near CSST transition to make ground bonding visible for the inspector.
@@bluejay713 If the gas pipe was bonded to ground when the house was built, then it usually will be at the point of entry. Gas meter is usually outside around here and never seen gas pipe bonded outside. It probably is because pipe outside is painted. If the meter is inside, then I have seen them grounded there since it is the point of entry.
I would actually recommend using a deburring tool over the file for cleaning up that lip on the flex pipe. Takes just a few seconds and gives you a clean edge.
EDIT for clarification: A hand deburring tool, not the kind you put on a drill.
Only took my electrician self about 40 years to learn the correct term for what you called the vallies. Guy from UL labs told us for type AC ( BX ) & MC cable they are called convolutions And yes that & $2 or 3 will get you a cheap coffee..
When filing never let your filings fall inside your gas line (or any line). You have regulators down line that won't like that. (pressure regulator not a person).
@timbrown9305 * good point 🫠
Another point. 11:21 There's no sediment trap. Elbow needed to be a "tee" fitting.
So much for the title of this video "You've Been Installing Home Flex Gas Pipe Wrong This Whole Time." Same mistake at 08:10
I Prefer using Black pipe for Natural Gas than the Flex gas tubing. It's more secured tight seal
Agree 100%, but measuring, cutting and threading steel pipe actually requires knowledge, skill and a bit of work. Exact opposite of the state of this country.
Do you still you use an out house to take a shit? 😂😂😂 mehh technology. Get off my lawn 😂😂😂
looks neater too less likely to get damaged, cheaper. bonding electricly flex looks horrid but its faster. nothing wrong with it I just prefer the black
@@lnk4328 I went from 32 joints to 8 joints.
I like the trick of rolling over the sharp edge. That way the packing gets compressed not sliced. Maybe I missed it but I didn't see any sediment traps.
08:10 Absolutely spot on. There's no sediment trap. Elbow needed to be a "tee" fitting. So much for the title of this video "You've Been Installing Home Flex Gas Pipe Wrong This Whole Time."
2:13 he used the duct to support the pipe. That will fail any inspection.
@@duke9173 Good call, I noticed that too.
Did you get an inspection on your work? I’m sure it would not pass due to the issues discussed.
It's always great when someone says "you're doing it wrong" then proceed to do it all the way wrong
I agree. 11:21 There's no sediment trap. Elbow needed to be a "tee" fitting.
So much for the title of this video "You've Been Installing Home Flex Gas Pipe Wrong This Whole Time." Same mistake at 08:10
@@1982nsu Drip legs aren't required any more.
@@briansmyla8696 that’s not true. In my local jurisdiction here in College Station, TX the city enforces the sediment trap. We put it in or it’s a $100 red tag.
@@ElPescadorTejano Local codes may require it, but I don't believe that the national code does. It's a relic from the days of wet, contaminated gas supply.
@@ElPescadorTejano UPC uses the phrase 'other than dry gas conditions' for many requirements, including the requirement for a sediment trap. Which implies that dry gas conditions are assumed in most cases, and 'other than dry gas conditions' is a rare exception. Sediment traps are required by code only in 'other than dry gas conditions'. Dry gas is assumed and expected in today's gas delivery systems. 'Other than dry gas conditions' is a relic of bygone days.
Would love to see you touch on the importance of grounding when using this type of material. Alot of DIYers follow your lead and they just don't know. To important to not mention
Retired sparky and maybe 8 years ago at a continuing education class they told us that each manufacturer has thier own way of bonding their SS corrugated tubing. I had a friend that needed the new half ass of it installed on top of 2.5" thin base board that had dents in it from being hit with vacuum cleaner to be bonded. I called the city owner Gas Company and they told me that I only had to run a wire from copper water service to steel gas line preferably where pipes enter the house. Did that and it was approved but I think it would be safer to run a #6 or 8 guage solid copper wire from steel gas pipe to a fitting in tubing then to where it connects at other end. If it was my house would have insisted on schedule 40 steel pipe to be ran on top of baseboard. Was in a basement rec room to feed a corner gas fire place.
In cases like that I use a crows foot wrench and snap it onto my regular torque wrench. Works like a charm
Thanks for teaching me so many things. Always look forward to your videos!
BIG MISTAKE at 11:21 There's no sediment trap. Elbow needed to be a "tee" fitting.
So much for the title of this video "You've Been Installing Home Flex Gas Pipe Wrong This Whole Time." Same mistake at 08:10
The jagged edge is because you're not using the recommended tube cutter. No need to file or mess with the connection.
Prone to failure because it really depends on the person installing it. Doing it right and doing it half-ass is a very fine line here I'm not too sure trusting even pros to get the fitting correct without worrying any potential issues down the road.
You should really call a licensed professional when dealing with gas. Most other things I think a DYI’er can do. But when you are dealing with an extremely dangerous fuel; I would ⚠️ recommend you call a licensed plumber or propane installer. I’ve been in a gas explosion before and I’m telling you. The last thing you want to do is have your house go 💥 because you didn’t want to spend the 💰 for a pro. There’s a reason that certain things can’t be purchased by Joe Public and are protected behind a license. If you do your own work, please check several times before you leaving it, and check the entire gas system not just what you worked on. Nice video
I agree. 11:21 There's no sediment trap. Elbow needed to be a "tee" fitting.
So much for the title of this video "You've Been Installing Home Flex Gas Pipe Wrong This Whole Time." Same mistake at 08:10
Yet you can buy a complete electrical service as a diy person. Just as easy to die or burn the house down
Yeah, not sure how much value there is to this comment. You can certainly buy the same materials at local hardware stores to DIY anything in a house. The only thing you can't do are initial utility hook-ups. Having someone else who's in the business of doing this, doesn't necessarily remove the risk. I've seen shoddy electrical work done by "pros" before. Years ago, most of these things were done by "Joe Public". It's only since around the late 70s where people stopped doing things for themselves and farmed out the work to a local "professional". This Old House with Bob Villa was a show out there showing folks how to be a DIYer before DIY was "cool", including utility installations from the meter bases and on. Reason nobody wants to spend money on a pro these days is mostly due to the current cost of living, and prices a lot of these professionals want. 4 hours labor for an upgrade on my gas line, just to run from meter base, down to an existing line, about 60 feet and 2 shutoff valves... was over $1,000. It was more expensive than the material. Don't get sucked into a false positive because your work was done by a professional. They're human too and while great, are subjective to making mistakes as well.
Great presentation. If you can cover any coding issues and things like bonding/sediment traps.
We had the same type of gaskets in aircraft... flanges with nicks or bad gaskets always leaked 👍
You create awesome videos. Glad you go into details like how to make it flush with the fitting. But I think music is too loud. Please post more videos!
All new homes, I connect to gas have black csst. It has a layer of rubber over the tubing, then a steel mesh over that and then the outer layer of vinyl covering. It is because of lightning protection and needs to be bonded to ground. I don’t believe Iowa, Nebraska or South Dakota allow the yellow on new construction. I’d be surprised any other state allows it. Lightning burns holes through it!
Most likely that is Flashshield tubing, which doesn't require any extra bonding
My house got struck by lightning at the chimney, the strike seemed to go down to the CSST where it then arc'd over to 12/2 electrical wire. It put a tiny nail-sized hole in the CSST where it began to act as a flame thrower and burn the floor joists and subfloor. We got lucky and this happened near an outdoor water spigot which had copper fittings that melted and extinguished the fire. Another house in the neighborhood got hit about a year earlier and was a total loss but we just had about $50k worth of damages. I believe code changes regarding grounding and proximity of CSST to electrical wire. When they repaired it we had them take out all of the CSST and replace it with iron pipe.
Get the stuff from Lowe’s. Has same washer but also an o ring for double the protection from leaks. Never let me down. Make sure to do proper grounding.
Great video! I think you need to support your expansion tank on your hot water heater. Hanging the unsupported tank on its side may not be to code.
@ericr2zz * they sure get heavy when the bladder fails...🫠
Will be replaced very soon with the tankless 👍🏼
You forgot to bond the flex to panel ground with #6 wire. The reason is to provide a path for lightning current. You can use a nearby water pipe ONLY if the water pipe is bonded to PANEL ground. (use an ohm meter between the ground pin of an outlet and your pipe)
ua-cam.com/video/7QiNMnDdXQ8/v-deo.html
Thanks you beat me to it
Good stuff but I noticed you don't have any "Sediment or Dirt traps" at your furnace, water heater on the gas lines. If the gas company ever works on your gas main in your neighborhood and dirt enters the main line or if rust is ever created on old pipes or from home repairs like running new lines those pieces of dirt (flakes of dirt and rust) will flow through you line and into your gas regulators on your water heater, furnace, etc. and can block and ruin them internally. The traps are very easy to make for a few dollars for pipe and a cap. From what i've read in some states they are mandatory when licensed repairs are done.
They are called drip legs .
@@mrbig4532 If you Google them you will find them as Sediment Traps or Dirt Traps.
It appears to be the same guy that installed the black iron, also installed the electrical wiring.
lol
Rigid Aluminum Offset wrenches are your friend.
Best to pressure test. If you have leaks then you got to the soapy water. Leaks can be missed with the soapy water.
Switching from electric range to gas soon. This may come in handy.
Wish that came with a pressure drop calculator Qr code link printed on the pipe... make things easier!
Milwaukee knife! Be careful they like to evaporate away!! I am on my 3rd one.
dont use the rigid gas flex cutters with the yellow knob. they have these rings that are supposed to hold the cutter in that one groove but all they do is egg the pipe and then it doesnt compress correctly even if you try to un-egg it with pliers. or just it will push and stretch the corregations down the pipe they are supposed to protect. use cutters that have some flat rolling bar. my team was wondering what was going so horribly wrong, we changed cutters and suddenly all of our connections were holding.
Do you have drip legs on the furnace, or water heater? I didnt see any...🤔
Not yet, the furnace is getting replaced and the water heater isn’t fully installed yet. But there will be on both 👍🏼
@@diyhvacguy I was curious. Good deal👍
I was told that homeflex is not designed to be disconnected and reconnected and that it should have a union between the flex and the appliance
Great 😌 😊video and great tips…Saludos!!! You have a great Sunday!!!👋😃👋
great pro tip (the file method ) for home flex Question what do you do about bonding the csst and if so can it be bonded to the water main which gets bonded to the service panel
you are a generous man!
Nice demo buddy 👊
torque spec. is a mis-print according to Home-flex, should be 62 foot pound for 1/2" and 3/4". 74 foot pounds for 1"
6" clearance on 3" flue for less than 28k btu with no rise at scoop?
Good video ,thanks.
National Grid does not allow the Flex gas pipe. I was red flagged for it. The reasoning, I was told, is lightning strikes can cause pin hole leaks... I pressed X to doubt.
Bonding? Some require ground wire to water lines, gas line and electric panel... flash shield?
@@gallowaylightsWater line grounding isn't even legal for the cable company. They inspected my utilities, Red flagged the items and said see ya. I think it was a liability release for the company, they won't re-inspect after I fixed the issues.
@@bigblue2216 it's so interesting how everything is connected together... at the pannel (neutral and ground), at that 3' rod into the ground "earth ground" at gas and water lines "bonding" at a light bulb "filament" in a pinched wire "short" etc.
I too was wondering if felx pipe is allowable everywhere.
@MrPoppyDuck * nail guards... non moble applications... none corrosive environment... everything has pro and cons..
Interesting that the lip doesn’t cause issues like you would have if it were a water line
I would think it is because gas is run at a lower pressure than water is. 🤷♂
Never done anything to the edge. Never been an issue.
Thank you very much for your videos, very,very helpful...
BIG MISTAKE at 11:21 There's no sediment trap. Elbow needed to be a "tee" fitting.
So much for the title of this video "You've Been Installing Home Flex Gas Pipe Wrong This Whole Time." Same mistake at 08:10
You do not have to install drip legs at the devices ?
Are you putting in a 90+ furnace in?
How is this faster, safer and better than black pipe?
Use sawzall to cut black pipe. Use a step bit to ream it. Clamp it and cut the thread. Done.
All the prep to use the flex line seems like it takes a lot of time. Wouldnt black pipe be faster to install?
Black pipe is a pain and messy, unless you already have all the threading tools, fittings and can run it neatly to where you want it.
Amen. I love the flex but to each their own.
What type of venting material is on your furnace?
Is a double wall flex vent that’s made for gas furnaces. I can’t seem to locate them online however. I get them through my local hvac supplier
Can Plex tolerate say a mouse chewing on it?
Why would anyone remove black pipe for CSST???
modern day diy. I recently removed copper tubing gas lines on my new house purchase and replaced it all with black pipe.
@4:17 - I was taught to turn it the opposite way. The part that does not have the knob follows in the turning, not leading. Otherwise, i twill want to walk itselt out of the line, which is what happened to you.
That is a great video
Great work. Like to see your use of crescent wrenches on large fittings. But at approx. frame 11:22 you held the fitting with a wedged crescent wrench but tightened the flex piping with slip-joint pliers. Would not a crescent wrench have been a better choice? At least you are not like some U-Tube plumbers that seem to use nothing but slip-joint pliers on everything. Even chrome plated fixtures in many cases.
Turning the tubing cutter in wrong direction. That's why it's jumping off the tube.
Use the proper pipe cutter made to cut stainless steel
I think i would of pressure tested it with air first you ever know if there's a pin hole in the tubing
black steel is safer.
You said you were going to create a manifold to run the csst from. I see no evidence of that. Why would you replace the black iron with a much, much less reliable system ? Another thing is csst is not a flexible connector and should never be used to directly connect to an appliance. You’re supposed to do a pressure test on the whole system, when you are done. You will need to show the INSPECTOR the test before you can turn on anything! The instructions for every csst pipe tell you to cut back the plastic coating before cutting the steel. You also used the wrong cutter. They make a cutter for this pipe that will not create the jagged edge that you got.
dang that mechanical room looks like a mess, it doesnt seem like it would be that much harder to do normal black pipe, or pro press gas connection
NO to pro press
No offense but I can’t believe what code allows for gas today. yeah I see it all the time in the big houses that we wire. Just seems so unsafe.
🤔 I Think you're supposed to have a disconnect / union in front of the shutoff valve it seems to me should of strapped it better 👍
Bonding a CSST line is imperative, not grounding. Any appliance that functions by thermostat, must have sediment trap. Any gas line longer than 1 foot must be pressure tested via air or non-flammable gas like nitrogen (minimum 15 psi). CSST line has started many house fires ! This is not a place to DIY.
I don't think DIY guy knows bonding.
Does not have to always be done at the meter..
0 leaks? at 4 ounces pressure (much residential gas in homes is usually 4 ounces pressure), you're joking..right?????most codes require you to test it at 50 times that high to check for leaks. With a "proper leak test',..(meaning something like 15 pounds pressure for 24 hours) homeflex caused us enough problems that we finally threw the leftover out and went back to black pipe,..and when flex is required in some instances,..we use a competitors flex. WE prefer to run hard pipe. Some jobs we've been required to run a test of 125 pounds pressure...held for a week. If you call homeflex they will tell you that their pipe will not hold 125 psi. I believe many years ago,..I had them on the phone, and they told me that even at their mfg. facility...the max pressure they test at is 37 psi. And in the same sentence he told me never to run that high of pressure in it even for testing. I think he told me 25 psi max.
Did you prep the home flex correctly? Probably not. Probably why it gave you trouble 🤷🏻♂️
@@diyhvacguy . Me, and an employee, prepped, tested, pulled apart, prepped again, etc., Nearly wasted a full day,..And I was on the phone with their office (or whatever you want to call it) more than once during that time. I always assume I am doing it incorrectly until I know different. The muckymuck on the other end of the line finally said that it would hold pressure at the pressure level residences are at (4 oz? are you kidding) ,..so why was I worrying? (That's when I knew I was talking to a pseudo plumber who was never licensed..I am licensed in California, which is where homeflex is at..I think they are near Magic Mountain) How can you work on ONE SINGLE homeflex run all day, putting it under test each time. Use new fittings (technically I should call them adapters) and pipe each time. I've ran miles and miles of pipe in my life. You can come show me,..and we will make a video. I would be very happy to find out that I could somehow make it hold 15 to 25 pounds for a few days. The ONE THING that I would have liked to do,..was to use some pipe dope on the sealing surface,...but the instructions stated not to do this,..and so did the guy on the phone. I hope they change their mind. When we absolutely have to use flex,. we use tracpipe or proflex. We test at 15 psi or higher and then give it a few days.
08:10 There's no sediment trap. Elbow needed to be a "tee" fitting. So much for the title of this video "You've Been Installing Home Flex Gas Pipe Wrong This Whole Time."
Heater valve is useless where you placed it .
Um how so?
It looks to me that it takes 4 times as long to install this stuff.
Not to mention the cost.
The primary reason I wanted it was for that long section that goes out to my back deck and garage. That would have been a royal pain to do in black pipe.
So is this ss how does this pipe and fittings compare to the pipe and fittings the gas fiters use flex pipe looks the same but the fittings are different as the ones the plumber use the pipe goes inside the coupler and the ring is 2 half parts of the ring also the flex pipe is stainless steel with the plastic cover on it you say they can be bought online can you also buy the professional fittings online as well
I never heard "ovular" before... guessing it means oval?
Yes
I prefer black pipe over a bunch of extension cords like you have here. Flex line like that is really should be used for behind a gas stove or from the hot water tank to black pipe, which is less than 2 feet.
Also at 9:45 you were filing and getting all the debris inside the flex line gas line. You should be doing it a better way.
Code requires Gas lines be black pipe, ONLY ! NO Galvanized pipe or galvanized fittings should b used at all !
your soapy solution for leak detecting is too thick
People have problems putting in black pipe with gas, this would be harder. I have seen plastic pipe used underground to swimming pool heaters, but only outdoors never inside. I would never have this in my home, I couldn’t sleep at night……..
This is stainless not plastic…
goof !
Helpful comment 👍🏼
11:21 There's no sediment trap. Elbow needed to be a "tee" fitting.
So much for the title of this video "You've Been Installing Home Flex Gas Pipe Wrong This Whole Time." Same mistake at 08:10
Did I miss the part where he bonded it or is his house going to explode?
I don't think DIY guy knows bonding...
Yeah you gotta ream it and ground it. That’s why you’re supposed to be certified to run the stuff. When it first came out we ran it like wildfire, now that I’m calling the shots we run all hard pipe. Was never a fan of it.
There are so many NO NOs with this install…..
Let’s hear em. This comment is kind of useless otherwise
Sorry not a good idea to put flex in 😟
Umm why?
WoW. Way too much pipe dope on those joints. Sloppy and wasteful.
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Nope you didn't I didn't see any sediment trap
Yea that crap is banned most places and you must have drip legs look up code im too tired 😫 to explain .
Yes, I explained that the new furnace will go in in a few weeks and will have a drop leg. As will the tankless water heater.