This video is gold.🏆 I've got leak issues all around my roof from a poor installation done years ago. Trying to fix it myself. There was no I&W used, the drip edge was installed wrong, and hence I have weird leaks. Both chimneys also have surrounding wood damage, no ice and water, and incorrect flashing. Taking on these repairs myself sounds kinda crazy, but thanks to UA-cam, even I can learn how to fix this. A special *Thank You* for your work here!! Appreciate that you are sincerely trying to help us properly deal with this stuff! I'm on a budget and have already patched a roof vent, skylight flashing, and fashioned some kick-out flashing.👍👍Thanks again!!!
When Ice damning occurs due to clogged gutters, ice will travel under the dripedge and travel up the decking. When possible, I wrap the fascias to prevent this. This is not always possible though when you are not installing new gutters and fascias but always rule of thumb on new construction.Great video by the way.Keep em coming
If you're installing shingles in any climate with heavy snow and cold install ice shield 3" over the plywood edge and down the gutter board . Install the drip edge over the ice shield.
Nice video! When I did my first roof nearly 30 years ago, I did it just like this, drip edge nailed right to the deck on bottom, add 30# tar paper with some tar under the eave area, then drip edge over the tar paper on the rakes. I rolled the starter strip out and buttered up the bottom first with some kind of tar product. There was no ice and water shield back then. I believe I sprang for a 20 year shingle. As of this past spring the roof was still in good condition. The climate was super cold/snow in winter and high winds and 80-120F in summer. I will say I used spray and forget on the north side of the roof every few years at the first sign of moss. I has worked great! The last roof I did a 10 years ago I did just like this guy in the video with ice and water and tar paper over the eaves and under the rakes. Works great. Now days I would do say a 12" wide ice and water first all the way around the perimeter and probably a few inches on to the facia; and then do just like above. I think it's a little more work but really ideal for most climates. If I learned a lesson I would say leave some room between the drip edge and facia board as the water jumps onto the facia, stain the facia boards and maybe even compromise the wood. This may mean a facia board with a bit more nailer surface. For those with ice dam issues. Get in that attic, air seal everything(even the top plates), foam box those can lights and insulate!
Gracie's ice and water can be a hole new experience .I usually put a small slit in paper backing and with it straight peel as I roll .watched a freind actually get tangled In it before .lol
Love it! A tip from me to make your cuts a little more clean looking is to not close your snips all the way it will leave a less jagged edge for me that’s important. I consider myself a professional and you as well great stuff!
We would still wrap ice and water up the chimney brick just a little bit. Roof and flash everything out, then using a masonry wheel cut a channel into the chimney and bend aluminum counter flashing to cover all roof flashing.
Gracie's has it problems to after some years when changing roofing I've seen it get so adhere to shingles won't come off from shingles or wood .it's something else
Ideally you don’t want metal directly on wood especially where the most moister is going to be You are correct to put the eve flashing on after the peel and stick
In areas where you have the cold winters, where you could have ice dams, we use it at all of the bottoms. Not just the valleys. It needs to be a couple of feet past the exterior wall, before you transition to synthetic paper. If you have larger overhangs, you'll need to run two or more passes of ice and water. Algae manufacturers say to run ice in water over the entire roof deck, if it is a 3/12 pitch.
Buy a bostich cap nail gun. -drip edge does no protect wood, ice and water goes directly to wood, drip edge over it (now I won't have to replace the rotted eave). Forever Stop nailing in the valley. Ice and water the valley first, then criss crossing the sides into it. If you think "how does water flow" then it'll make sense.
Dont use the cap gun but here in Colorado where ice is the main problem that's exactly how your supposed to do valleys always first and dry in to the valley ots the only way to do a non bucking seam. nice comment yo I was waiting till someone new how to properly water proof a house.
Does anyone ever cover Thier whole roof with ice and water shield? Why or why not? I know cost can be more, but then install time might be a little faster with Peel and stick...
Quick question. Not sure if you've come across many open valley metal roofs, but lots of guys I've worked with end up just leaving it in. Which I argue with them to take it out because for one, the homeowner is paying us to take everything off it doesn't make sense to just leave it in. And it makes it so you can't see underneath if theres any wood rot there. The same goes for paper felt. Some people just go over top rather than taking it off. But if you have do you usually take it out or leave it in? And your views on it.
Typically whenever we're tearing off yes we take the majority of the paper. We want to make sure there's no bad wood or more importantly nails laying under pieces of felt during the tear off. As far as valley metal, are you referring to metal in the valley under your shingles to smooth a rough cut valley? If that's what you're talkin about it depends. If we suspect bad would we will remove it. If it is laying flat and everything seems solid we will typically leave it because it's probably smoothing out a jagged valley.
@@GrandRoofingInc Okay great, that's what I figured, and like the "W" metal valley. Where you purposely leave a few inch inch exposure towards the middle for water to flow faster off the roof. A few people I've worked with usually leave it in. But another thing is that a lot of people here in Vancouver seem to not care for ice and water and would use regular synthetic paper so it ends up floating a bit.
Actually I haven't put any commercials on them. UA-cam started adding them on its own when one of the video started doing good. I just got cleaned up from work I haven't even seen how many they put on it, how many are there?
WRONG. Ice and water over fascia board and behind gutter then apron. Your way if the gutter backs up and water/ice goes under the apron and water can leak behind the fascia board and leak in the soffit or worse yet down the wall. I've repaired miles of rotten wood because of your method. Your statement about going over the fascia (1 minute mark) "if your going to do all that why even put the apron on" Because apron has a purpose. Sometimes you can't do it the right way if the gutters aren't coming down but if they are or new construction like your showing why wouldn't you do it right.
This video is gold.🏆 I've got leak issues all around my roof from a poor installation done years ago. Trying to fix it myself. There was no I&W used, the drip edge was installed wrong, and hence I have weird leaks. Both chimneys also have surrounding wood damage, no ice and water, and incorrect flashing. Taking on these repairs myself sounds kinda crazy, but thanks to UA-cam, even I can learn how to fix this. A special *Thank You* for your work here!! Appreciate that you are sincerely trying to help us properly deal with this stuff! I'm on a budget and have already patched a roof vent, skylight flashing, and fashioned some kick-out flashing.👍👍Thanks again!!!
I live in Belgium and we use tiles but i still really enjoy watching your vids
When Ice damning occurs due to clogged gutters, ice will travel under the dripedge and travel up the decking. When possible, I wrap the fascias to prevent this. This is not always possible though when you are not installing new gutters and fascias but always rule of thumb on new construction.Great video by the way.Keep em coming
If you're installing shingles in any climate with heavy snow and cold install ice shield 3" over the plywood edge and down the gutter board . Install the drip edge over the ice shield.
Very explicit mainly for those whom are begginers at this field, thnks for sharing
WOW DUDE YOU ARE REALLY A PROFFESIONAL WHO LOVES WHAT THEY DO, YOU HAVE GONE AND BEYOND WITH THIS VEDIO..
Great videos, best I have seen on-line. Appreciate all the tips! Keep up the great work!
Nice video! When I did my first roof nearly 30 years ago, I did it just like this, drip edge nailed right to the deck on bottom, add 30# tar paper with some tar under the eave area, then drip edge over the tar paper on the rakes. I rolled the starter strip out and buttered up the bottom first with some kind of tar product. There was no ice and water shield back then. I believe I sprang for a 20 year shingle. As of this past spring the roof was still in good condition. The climate was super cold/snow in winter and high winds and 80-120F in summer. I will say I used spray and forget on the north side of the roof every few years at the first sign of moss. I has worked great! The last roof I did a 10 years ago I did just like this guy in the video with ice and water and tar paper over the eaves and under the rakes. Works great. Now days I would do say a 12" wide ice and water first all the way around the perimeter and probably a few inches on to the facia; and then do just like above. I think it's a little more work but really ideal for most climates. If I learned a lesson I would say leave some room between the drip edge and facia board as the water jumps onto the facia, stain the facia boards and maybe even compromise the wood. This may mean a facia board with a bit more nailer surface. For those with ice dam issues. Get in that attic, air seal everything(even the top plates), foam box those can lights and insulate!
Awesome video! Definitely worth subscribing!! Thank you so much for the work to publish them.
Another great video. Waiting for the microscope videos. Thanks for sharing your work
Gracie's ice and water can be a hole new experience .I usually put a small slit in paper backing and with it straight peel as I roll .watched a freind actually get tangled In it before .lol
Ice & water shield applied below drip edge?
Hey! My dad and I replaced my roof about 2 years ago. I’m located in Valparaiso and wouldn’t mind you doing a review of a first timers work.
I've got family up in Valparaiso portage area.
Love it! A tip from me to make your cuts a little more clean looking is to not close your snips all the way it will leave a less jagged edge for me that’s important. I consider myself a professional and you as well great stuff!
Sorry @grandroofing that was for the other video lol
I was gonna say, I didn't see any fish hooks in any sheet metal😂
What would you do different if that chimney were actually brick?
Enjoying your vids. Thanks.
We would still wrap ice and water up the chimney brick just a little bit. Roof and flash everything out, then using a masonry wheel cut a channel into the chimney and bend aluminum counter flashing to cover all roof flashing.
@@GrandRoofingInc Thanks for the info. I don't see myself roofing (back injury) but I still chase the knowledge.
Gracie's has it problems to after some years when changing roofing I've seen it get so adhere to shingles won't come off from shingles or wood .it's something else
Ngl when a homeowner has ice dam issues I wrap ice halfway down the facia,then drip l,then run a 12in strip on my drip edge
Again AWESOME. Thanks
You COULD’VE adjusted for the mock-up (size) & still done a valley install just to “Model” it all correctly, no?.
Thank you!
I have a skylight window. Should I use ice shield around it or synthetic? I live in Dallas btw
Ideally you don’t want metal directly on wood especially where the most moister is going to be
You are correct to put the eve flashing on after the peel and stick
Valley first always
Why do you use ice and water only at the edges? When do you know to switch to paper?
In areas where you have the cold winters, where you could have ice dams, we use it at all of the bottoms. Not just the valleys. It needs to be a couple of feet past the exterior wall, before you transition to synthetic paper. If you have larger overhangs, you'll need to run two or more passes of ice and water. Algae manufacturers say to run ice in water over the entire roof deck, if it is a 3/12 pitch.
why don’t you have to use it on every edge then
As always great video
Was a sight for sour eyes
Great videos man ! You aren’t that far either. I’m in Hammond IN 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
what hammer is that?
Buy a bostich cap nail gun.
-drip edge does no protect wood, ice and water goes directly to wood, drip edge over it (now I won't have to replace the rotted eave). Forever Stop nailing in the valley. Ice and water the valley first, then criss crossing the sides into it. If you think "how does water flow" then it'll make sense.
Dont use the cap gun but here in Colorado where ice is the main problem that's exactly how your supposed to do valleys always first and dry in to the valley ots the only way to do a non bucking seam. nice comment yo I was waiting till someone new how to properly water proof a house.
Does anyone ever cover Thier whole roof with ice and water shield? Why or why not? I know cost can be more, but then install time might be a little faster with Peel and stick...
The pc is strong in this video.
The instructions tell you to install ice and water before drip edge.
Quick question. Not sure if you've come across many open valley metal roofs, but lots of guys I've worked with end up just leaving it in. Which I argue with them to take it out because for one, the homeowner is paying us to take everything off it doesn't make sense to just leave it in. And it makes it so you can't see underneath if theres any wood rot there. The same goes for paper felt. Some people just go over top rather than taking it off.
But if you have do you usually take it out or leave it in? And your views on it.
Typically whenever we're tearing off yes we take the majority of the paper. We want to make sure there's no bad wood or more importantly nails laying under pieces of felt during the tear off. As far as valley metal, are you referring to metal in the valley under your shingles to smooth a rough cut valley? If that's what you're talkin about it depends. If we suspect bad would we will remove it. If it is laying flat and everything seems solid we will typically leave it because it's probably smoothing out a jagged valley.
@@GrandRoofingInc Okay great, that's what I figured, and like the "W" metal valley. Where you purposely leave a few inch inch exposure towards the middle for water to flow faster off the roof. A few people I've worked with usually leave it in. But another thing is that a lot of people here in Vancouver seem to not care for ice and water and would use regular synthetic paper so it ends up floating a bit.
Is overkill to ice and water the entire roof?
It depends on several factors. What is the slope or pitch and what is the climate?
@@GrandRoofingInc gable roof 5/12. I live in the Detroit Metro area in Michigan
Typically just over your eaves up high enough to get over the outside wall.
Man I guess you figured out how to add commercials
Actually I haven't put any commercials on them. UA-cam started adding them on its own when one of the video started doing good. I just got cleaned up from work I haven't even seen how many they put on it, how many are there?
@@GrandRoofingInc For myself were are quite a few, 4 in total all around 4 minutes apart.
That's definitely not how to dry in a dormer/valley buddy guy! Valley first always loom at those bucking seams and all that waste.....
WRONG.
Ice and water over fascia board and behind gutter then apron. Your way if the gutter backs up and water/ice goes under the apron and water can leak behind the fascia board and leak in the soffit or worse yet down the wall. I've repaired miles of rotten wood because of your method.
Your statement about going over the fascia (1 minute mark)
"if your going to do all that why even put the apron on"
Because apron has a purpose.
Sometimes you can't do it the right way if the gutters aren't coming down but if they are or new construction like your showing why wouldn't you do it right.