Ole retired furniture maker who used to be a carpenter -retired now in Michigan here. Nice to see such diligent work - you are very gifted roofer Brian
Thank you for stepping through what many people cringe to deal with. Essentially, removing the fear aspect of this repair. Thank you and Thank GOD for it!
Now I know why my roofing crew dislikes doing repairs and why we never quote enough to do them. Great video, really eye-opening, just how much extra work goes into doing a repair properly.
Great job! I had a vent cap replaced just over a year ago. The boot was shot. Water would run down the pipe and it accumulated on the dry wall above a closet. When I got quoted 375 I thought it was a bit high. After watching this I know it was worth every penny. It wasn’t as extensive as this but still you guys rock!
Just an old retired facilities supervisor who’s been watching tons of videos on plumbing (Mikey Pipes, The Pipe Doctor) and now your videos. Your explanation great videos and work are truly a work of art. Appears you’re in Michigan, I’m in Marine City, and I’ve got a roof needing repairs.
Gotta love them pancakes! Man, I love that flatbar hack! I have been bringing a small piece of plywood to make cuts, but I'm gonna have to try that one. I've done several patch jobs like this. Pretty good feeling to get someone dried in until they can afford a new roof. I really appreciate your channel. I'm somewhat new to the handyman/remodel trade, and am learning a ton from you and others on the UA-cams. Much appreciated. Thank you and God bless!
You do nice work, my friend. I have work I should be doing currently, but I watched the whole hour and a half repair. As an aside, I do like pancakes after a day of using my compressor.
Im no roofer or anything but have you considered getting something like a dewalt electric heatgun or a blowtorch and melting some key areas of the glue ,such as the part going on the plywood seams and around vents or whatever, before the sun can do it. Dont really know how hot it needs to be to stick well. I got 0 roofing knowledge and doubt it really matters much, just spitballing. Nice vid, i like the longform content. Was recommended the channel by the algorithm due to my shed roofing research i guess 😂.
I've watched several of your videos now. Good advice on the whole. From a material handling perspective, you're touching most of the nails. At the point where you handle them all, stick them into a repository like a bin or belt pouch. It will take you almost no extra time and will save you from kneeling on them or trying to manage them on the room. Give it a try a few times and see what you think. With just a little practice, you will be able to stow the nail at the same time as you are lifting the next nail.
I would've replaced that damaged rafter, it doesn't look strong at all, to do that it'll take more time removing gutter,fascia and soffit, but it would've been better. Good quality work ain't cheap.
I wish you would have zoomed in more on the nail holes because in my area nail holes like that never would have rotted that much out. Generally it's a slit or mini hole in the flashing where water pools. I wonder if the nail holes were precisely where water pooled, and soaked into the roof. I'll always silicone or caulk my nail holes, but this year I switched to 1 1/4" gasket screws instead of exposed nails.
It had nothing to do where the gasket would seal. The water was coming in on the sides and bottom edges of the flashing, and then getting to the nail shank.
When it's warm, this ice and water sticks on its own. Because it's cold, I put the nails to hold it down solely so I could work on it until the shingles pinned it down.
You would probably need to take out the piece of playwood on top of the damaged area and get a longer piece of 2x4 or 2x6 just so you can have somewhere to nail the new piece 2x4
There are several ways you could attack it. The 2 commented blow are perfectly adequate. I would have gone into the attic with a longer piece of lumber. If you try to support it, just be cautious. If it's going to hold a large load, you want to support it over an interior wall, not just anywhere.
Happens a lot around poorly installed vent boots or ones that fail. If the pipe is cast iron which a lot are you might even start to see rust stains in a white ceiling. But usually at the point it gets noticed it’s pretty bad already
Would like to know what your charge would be for something like this. I'm trying to pick up our game on repairs this new year and feel I may not be charging enough but I also am not out to make someone feel they were over charged.
Hey Brian, I've got a metal roof here in AZ, and I had a leak around a skylight. Went up there and sealed it, but the pitch just just enough that I barely had enough traction. As I was working I kept sliding down and I had to constantly battle to keep my position. Made the work a lot harder. Do you have any recommendations for footwear and clothing to maximize traction on a metal roof? BTW, I love your videos!
Definitely stay off of the metal if there is any rain dew or moisture of any sort. I don't know how much you have to do, but cougar paws have a magnetic insert. I'm not sure what metal you have, but depending upon how rigid the ribs are, sometimes stepping on those, your shoe curls around and grips a little better. If it's exposed fastener, you can try to stand behind the screw head so your shoe grips a little. You can always use a hook ladder as well.
I give a credit for the repair if they do the roof within a year. I have to say it again, but you need to get that battery powered framer and roofing nailer. Then you can leave that air hose at home and not have to plug-in. Any compressors for repair this size. Next repair video I want to see you with that cordless roofing nailer.
That rafter was rotten yes, but it did hold my 175 pound body weight on it. The weight that one rafter carries is not much. With the new piece of lumber on it, it will not have any issue. If you have a similar issue and want to hire a structural engineer, go ahead. I have seen the reports and worked with structural engineers. That's how they say to repair it. Or you could rip your entire roof off and lift a new tress in there or rebuild the complete rafter. Which is fine if you're replacing the roof, but this was a roof repair to stop the leak. Not a new roof replacement.
@@GrandRoofingInc Here's just one example. Let's say 1 or even 2 large people walk over that area next year and your 2 x 4 patch partially breaks or even slightly gives way and one of the people loses his balance and falls off the roof. The insurance investigator then finds your patch and immediately sues you. The expense of just fighting the lawsuit would be enormous, even if you weren't found liable. Personally I stay far away from any structural repair unless I have a professional structural engineer telling me exactly how to do the repair on his stamped drawing. That way the engineer assumes all liability. Doing any structural repairs on your own is not worth the risk.
All that black paper below protecting nothing...Because water got in above it. That there is REAL plywood btw, not shitty OSB. LOVE to see it. Only thing is I would cleanup cut out the black mouldy part of the rafter that's soft, so it has less chance to spread to the new sistered piece, but maybe that's just my OCD
If they would of used weather and ice shield on that roof instead of useless tar paper there wouldn’t be a leak and haven’t ever came across a failed vent plastic boot but plenty of what you call the better metal ones that have failed
This plastic vent didn't technically fail. It was the nail placement. You never want to rely on your underlinement. Whatever it is, ice and water or not to keep your roof dry. It is a secondary defense. The aluminum and steel boots have never cracked like shooting a nail through the plastic ones have.
Pancake compressor. I would’ve thought it necessary to replace that weak black mold invested rafter. Or least spray it with some mitigation sealer. Also, maybe find a shingle color that matches the color the old shingles have become, and not once were. Damnit, here I am being a keyboard worrier. I know nothing. As I’m sure you already know.
Never do a quick repair like this and accept the huge personal and property liability created by a substandard repair. Have a structural engineer inspect the damage and have the engineer provide a certified recommended repair. Take the engineer's recommendation to the Town's building office to determine if a building permit is required. A structural engineer may charge from $500 to $1,000, however it is well worth the expense.
I have worked with a structural engineer on this exact same issue. That is exactly what they said to do. I believe I even spoke about that in this video, which you may not have heard. There are no permits required in this area unless you're over 100 square feet.
Ole retired furniture maker who used to be a carpenter -retired now in Michigan here. Nice to see such diligent work - you are very gifted roofer Brian
@@baldymtngrizz2527 Well thank you for sharing that "arm chair " quarterback-lol!
Thank you for stepping through what many people cringe to deal with. Essentially, removing the fear aspect of this repair. Thank you and Thank GOD for it!
Now I know why my roofing crew dislikes doing repairs and why we never quote enough to do them. Great video, really eye-opening, just how much extra work goes into doing a repair properly.
Great job! I had a vent cap replaced just over a year ago. The boot was shot. Water would run down the pipe and it accumulated on the dry wall above a closet. When I got quoted 375 I thought it was a bit high. After watching this I know it was worth every penny. It wasn’t as extensive as this but still you guys rock!
Just an old retired facilities supervisor who’s been watching tons of videos on plumbing (Mikey Pipes, The Pipe Doctor) and now your videos. Your explanation great videos and work are truly a work of art. Appears you’re in Michigan, I’m in Marine City, and I’ve got a roof needing repairs.
I'm in Kokomo Indiana
Gotta love them pancakes! Man, I love that flatbar hack! I have been bringing a small piece of plywood to make cuts, but I'm gonna have to try that one. I've done several patch jobs like this. Pretty good feeling to get someone dried in until they can afford a new roof. I really appreciate your channel. I'm somewhat new to the handyman/remodel trade, and am learning a ton from you and others on the UA-cams. Much appreciated. Thank you and God bless!
You do nice work, my friend. I have work I should be doing currently, but I watched the whole hour and a half repair. As an aside, I do like pancakes after a day of using my compressor.
hahaha thanks!
never knew a pancake compressor was even a thing lol Love your video thank you so much for the amazing tips and tricks
Really enjoy your videos and I prefer this camera style over the other
Pancake compressor. Awesome job with the thorough explanation and including addressing the tear on your trim job. 1.5 hrs is impressive
Another fantastic video Brian. Thank you for your effort to show us how it should be done.
Nice to see such attention to detail in roofing. Great content as always!
That was a lot of damage from just a small leak , crazy!
I need you in New Jersey. I have most of my trusted tradesmen but yet to find a roofer. Thanks for all the tips these last few years 😉
this was amazing work Grand, good stuff and thanks for the detailed repair
Thanks for the detailed explanation for how the boot/shingles should work.
Im no roofer or anything but have you considered getting something like a dewalt electric heatgun or a blowtorch and melting some key areas of the glue ,such as the part going on the plywood seams and around vents or whatever, before the sun can do it. Dont really know how hot it needs to be to stick well.
I got 0 roofing knowledge and doubt it really matters much, just spitballing.
Nice vid, i like the longform content. Was recommended the channel by the algorithm due to my shed roofing research i guess 😂.
I've watched several of your videos now. Good advice on the whole. From a material handling perspective, you're touching most of the nails. At the point where you handle them all, stick them into a repository like a bin or belt pouch. It will take you almost no extra time and will save you from kneeling on them or trying to manage them on the room. Give it a try a few times and see what you think. With just a little practice, you will be able to stow the nail at the same time as you are lifting the next nail.
Love your vids.. keep it up man
Great video 🙏
Thanks for this video , going to help me on my garage
At 8:46 you mention “you don’t want to seal pipe to shingle” - wondering if you could explain this a little more. Great repair video!
I would've replaced that damaged rafter, it doesn't look strong at all, to do that it'll take more time removing gutter,fascia and soffit, but it would've been better. Good quality work ain't cheap.
Hey Brian, try some long bill snips to cut those shingles around a boot
I have used them before. I actually used a pair of snips today on a repair.
Another great video
I wish you would have zoomed in more on the nail holes because in my area nail holes like that never would have rotted that much out. Generally it's a slit or mini hole in the flashing where water pools. I wonder if the nail holes were precisely where water pooled, and soaked into the roof. I'll always silicone or caulk my nail holes, but this year I switched to 1 1/4" gasket screws instead of exposed nails.
It had nothing to do where the gasket would seal. The water was coming in on the sides and bottom edges of the flashing, and then getting to the nail shank.
Why so many nails to hold the tar paper or ice and water,? when actually you are holding it down with many nails for the shingles, I just need to know
When it's warm, this ice and water sticks on its own. Because it's cold, I put the nails to hold it down solely so I could work on it until the shingles pinned it down.
Thanks for sharing, I just subscribed. Planning on a similar project.
Good Job
Nice fix Brian! If the truss didn’t have anything solid to attach to, what would have changed on this repair?
You would probably need to take out the piece of playwood on top of the damaged area and get a longer piece of 2x4 or 2x6 just so you can have somewhere to nail the new piece 2x4
then you have to go into the attic and rig up a suport
There are several ways you could attack it. The 2 commented blow are perfectly adequate. I would have gone into the attic with a longer piece of lumber. If you try to support it, just be cautious. If it's going to hold a large load, you want to support it over an interior wall, not just anywhere.
Very informative channel but what was the service call for a leaky inside ceiling?
Yes it was leaking inside in this area.
Happens a lot around poorly installed vent boots or ones that fail. If the pipe is cast iron which a lot are you might even start to see rust stains in a white ceiling. But usually at the point it gets noticed it’s pretty bad already
@ crazy how from the outside an untrained eye would have thought it looked normal no missing shingles and stuff like that
Thank you! Such great advice.
Great video long run is fine!! Pancake Compressor
Impressive every video, every time I watch a video. Thanks for the videos and the knowledge.
Pancake compressor. Nice work wished you were in my area. 💯👍👍
Would like to know what your charge would be for something like this. I'm trying to pick up our game on repairs this new year and feel I may not be charging enough but I also am not out to make someone feel they were over charged.
Where did you get that magnet? I’m in the garage door business and that would work wonders for me. Appreciate the content 👍🏼
I got mine from a roofing supply place, but you can get it from Amazon. There’s a link in the description of the video.
Pancake compressor, awesome job!
Excellent !
Hey Brian, I've got a metal roof here in AZ, and I had a leak around a skylight. Went up there and sealed it, but the pitch just just enough that I barely had enough traction. As I was working I kept sliding down and I had to constantly battle to keep my position. Made the work a lot harder. Do you have any recommendations for footwear and clothing to maximize traction on a metal roof? BTW, I love your videos!
Definitely stay off of the metal if there is any rain dew or moisture of any sort. I don't know how much you have to do, but cougar paws have a magnetic insert. I'm not sure what metal you have, but depending upon how rigid the ribs are, sometimes stepping on those, your shoe curls around and grips a little better. If it's exposed fastener, you can try to stand behind the screw head so your shoe grips a little. You can always use a hook ladder as well.
@@GrandRoofingInc Thanks!
Pancake Compressors for the win!
Channel steel sistered on to both sides... structural screws in a W pattern 16 inches on center
I give a credit for the repair if they do the roof within a year. I have to say it again, but you need to get that battery powered framer and roofing nailer. Then you can leave that air hose at home and not have to plug-in. Any compressors for repair this size. Next repair video I want to see you with that cordless roofing nailer.
I picked up the dewalt roofing nailer today. I absolutely love it! Thank you!
Great repair..id have used plywood instead of osb tho
That truss is shot . I would not be surprised it collapses in the near future.
His repair is a catastrophe waiting to happen. Never do what this guy is doing.
Please do explain in detail why it's a catastrophe waiting to happen??
That rafter was rotten yes, but it did hold my 175 pound body weight on it. The weight that one rafter carries is not much. With the new piece of lumber on it, it will not have any issue. If you have a similar issue and want to hire a structural engineer, go ahead. I have seen the reports and worked with structural engineers. That's how they say to repair it. Or you could rip your entire roof off and lift a new tress in there or rebuild the complete rafter. Which is fine if you're replacing the roof, but this was a roof repair to stop the leak. Not a new roof replacement.
@@GrandRoofingInc You don't realize the fact that it held your weight is irrelevant?
@@GrandRoofingInc Here's just one example. Let's say 1 or even 2 large people walk over that area next year and your 2 x 4 patch partially breaks or even slightly gives way and one of the people loses his balance and falls off the roof. The insurance investigator then finds your patch and immediately sues you. The expense of just fighting the lawsuit would be enormous, even if you weren't found liable. Personally I stay far away from any structural repair unless I have a professional structural engineer telling me exactly how to do the repair on his stamped drawing. That way the engineer assumes all liability. Doing any structural repairs on your own is not worth the risk.
lol when you blew your nose onto the shingle and folded it over 😂
Lol i was going to cut that part but was running out of time and said hell with it.
That underlayment doesn't look like tar paper . What is it as it is falling apart .
2x4 rafters ?
Why put a seam on the side or under
You should get some knee pads… great job btw
That's a lot more difficult work than it seems. (Layman perspective)
Cheers and Pancake compressor!
Whether you take constructive criticism Or not, you should have put new wood on both sides of that.Rotten out two before.
That rot is too extensive for a roofer to determine what may be an acceptable repair. That needs to be looked at by a structural engineer.
pancake compressor thx
All that black paper below protecting nothing...Because water got in above it. That there is REAL plywood btw, not shitty OSB. LOVE to see it. Only thing is I would cleanup cut out the black mouldy part of the rafter that's soft, so it has less chance to spread to the new sistered piece, but maybe that's just my OCD
That definitely wouldn't hurt, but if you stop the moisture from getting in, that will dry out and not spread.
🤠🤠🤠🤠
If they would of used weather and ice shield on that roof instead of useless tar paper there wouldn’t be a leak and haven’t ever came across a failed vent plastic boot but plenty of what you call the better metal ones that have failed
This plastic vent didn't technically fail. It was the nail placement. You never want to rely on your underlinement. Whatever it is, ice and water or not to keep your roof dry. It is a secondary defense. The aluminum and steel boots have never cracked like shooting a nail through the plastic ones have.
Pancake compressor. I would’ve thought it necessary to replace that weak black mold invested rafter. Or least spray it with some mitigation sealer. Also, maybe find a shingle color that matches the color the old shingles have become, and not once were. Damnit, here I am being a keyboard worrier. I know nothing. As I’m sure you already know.
lol you’re good
"Pancake Compressor"
Pancake Compressor.
Never do a quick repair like this and accept the huge personal and property liability created by a substandard repair. Have a structural engineer inspect the damage and have the engineer provide a certified recommended repair. Take the engineer's recommendation to the Town's building office to determine if a building permit is required. A structural engineer may charge from $500 to $1,000, however it is well worth the expense.
I have worked with a structural engineer on this exact same issue. That is exactly what they said to do. I believe I even spoke about that in this video, which you may not have heard. There are no permits required in this area unless you're over 100 square feet.
Pancake compressor
What do you think of these Perma boots? ua-cam.com/video/evaBzakGs_0/v-deo.htmlsi=ZkpjVaXrDCigM0FW
shingles are shit
Pancake compressor
Pancake compressor