As someone who has done this job more than once I have a few words of advice. 1. Buy the tool. Making an improvised tool will only destroy the vacuum seal when you try to use it. 2. Do it on a warm day. Getting that seal on the axle (even when greased) is a nightmare that is only compounded if it's cold out due to tight tolerances. 3. While you're in there you might as well change out the ball joints and universal joints. 4. Be careful where you pound the crap out of the knuckle if it's frozen. You risk warping the threaded hole the vacuum line goes into. 5. Get some good moly grease to lube the locker while you've got it out. 6. The dust seal doesn't seal that well so don't sweat it if it looks loose.
@erik. Question. I did exactly this on the pass side and now I have diff fluid barely leaking out from the axle. I know the smaller dust “seal” doesn’t seal and only keeps dirt from getting into your axle. Any idea why it’s leaking now? Axle came out smooth and went back in smooth, didn’t feel like it got caught up on anything.
Great vedeo and great explanation 👍👏 I need replaced a ball joints on my 2001 excursión and probably is a similar work like this 😀 but I don't have a specific tools for replacing that seals 🤔 great truck that F350👍 I love that amazing front bumper 👏👏👌👍 cheers from Norway 👋
ED, on my 2008 f350. ruint my caliper prying it off looking for popping noise. pulled axle and pumpkin cover. found bad ball/socket in CV or cardan joint on drive shaft. only needle bearings are in manual lockout hub, older models may have needles in wheel bearing hub. my 08 has the tube seal driven in tube end and axle seal by gears behind pumpkin. sending back vaccum knuckle seals since i have manual lockout hubs and need special driver/ press for it. one guy said use the wheelbearing hub to seat knuckle seal???? also drilling/tapping my ball joints with grease fittings.
Next time use a screwdriver behind the seal so you don't beat up the metal cover, you replacing it so it don't matter if you destroy it, and use a bigger Hammer next time.
Update: There is a new dust seal that has metal around the edges as opposed to what you see here. The old version just deteriorates over time and won't do anything. This seal just keeps rocks or debri out of the shaft opening.
Now is it wise to use the vacuum seal tool to seat it into the knuckle for a flush mount fit? Like how you had it before you installed the hub back on. Cause I have gone through three seals thus far and don't want to keep replacing them.
haha, that metal ring you beat up wasn't supposed to go back on, There are 2 versions of the vacuum seal. One with that metal cap built in and the version you replaced it with. Technically you ordered the wrong seal but they both work. The version with metal cap is the newer style.
The squealing noise I think is the bad needle bearing that has worn grooves into the axle shaft clearly seen at 13:46 and beyond. The seals you removed were if perfect condition and will not stop the squealing. Nice Shop, nice cheap overly clawed hammer, and nice shop Crocs bro.
Sorry, the view of the axle grooves from a bad needle bearing can be seen at 4:42 and beyond. That axle shaft should be smooth metal to the left, not grooved, or it will squeal, grind, and burn up.
You had to know that the metal dust shield was not included , but you beat the hell out of it anyway , also you were that far into it why didn't you change the universal joint , didn't make much sense ! Frank T
That's the south. NC,GA,TN, SC,FL, etc. Never worked on a vehicle with rust until I was in my 30s. I'll never purchase anything with rust on it in my life. Salted roads make everything a throw-away.
That's not the inner axle seal. That's the vacuum seal. The inner axle seals are right there by the centersection because oil don't flow through the axle tubes, it's a vacuum fed system, the oil stays in the center section.
only video showing real troubles! everyone cuts that from the videos and it most likely full of cussing..lol how man times have you herd the battery died on repair videos???
As someone who has done this job more than once I have a few words of advice. 1. Buy the tool. Making an improvised tool will only destroy the vacuum seal when you try to use it. 2. Do it on a warm day. Getting that seal on the axle (even when greased) is a nightmare that is only compounded if it's cold out due to tight tolerances. 3. While you're in there you might as well change out the ball joints and universal joints. 4. Be careful where you pound the crap out of the knuckle if it's frozen. You risk warping the threaded hole the vacuum line goes into. 5. Get some good moly grease to lube the locker while you've got it out. 6. The dust seal doesn't seal that well so don't sweat it if it looks loose.
I just did this and I only got one on. I destroyed the other. I could have bought for the price I’m going to have to pay for another seal. $60....
@erik. Question. I did exactly this on the pass side and now I have diff fluid barely leaking out from the axle. I know the smaller dust “seal” doesn’t seal and only keeps dirt from getting into your axle. Any idea why it’s leaking now? Axle came out smooth and went back in smooth, didn’t feel like it got caught up on anything.
Sounds like the inner seal is leaking. Not uncommon.@@alphasoldier150
Was the best video I've seen so far. Thank you.
That’s a cool truck,Can’t go wrong with a Ford.
Nice video! That wicker chair though 🤣🤣🤣🤣 I was just waiting for you to sit down once working in the shop lol
Good video man. Love the snap ring pliers.
My thoughts too. The tool i was using was complete garbage.
Great vedeo and great explanation 👍👏 I need replaced a ball joints on my 2001 excursión and probably is a similar work like this 😀 but I don't have a specific tools for replacing that seals 🤔 great truck that F350👍 I love that amazing front bumper 👏👏👌👍 cheers from Norway 👋
Thanks!
@@wethepeeples8309 my don't have a that dust plate begin the vacuum seal 🤔
Awesome video man
Bro It made my stomach curle when you were hammering right next to your finger.... 🥴
ED, on my 2008 f350. ruint my caliper prying it off looking for popping noise. pulled axle and pumpkin cover. found bad ball/socket in CV or cardan joint on drive shaft. only needle bearings are in manual lockout hub, older models may have needles in wheel bearing hub. my 08 has the tube seal driven in tube end and axle seal by gears behind pumpkin. sending back vaccum knuckle seals since i have manual lockout hubs and need special driver/ press for it. one guy said use the wheelbearing hub to seat knuckle seal???? also drilling/tapping my ball joints with grease fittings.
Next time use a screwdriver behind the seal so you don't beat up the metal cover, you replacing it so it don't matter if you destroy it, and use a bigger Hammer next time.
Holy mother of snap ring pliers
Did it cure yer 350? Thanks for sharing. I’m about to strip my 03 down and make her humm again.
Gracias, con la herramienta especial, es como se puede instalar correctamente el sello
Would really of helped knowing the order of those pieces that go on to hold the axel in place.
Update: There is a new dust seal that has metal around the edges as opposed to what you see here. The old version just deteriorates over time and won't do anything. This seal just keeps rocks or debri out of the shaft opening.
Thanks this video, where should I get the metal cover that goes behind the vacuum seal. Do You know?
The best place to get it would probably be the dealership
You have to take apart the center section to replace the inner axle seals.
Now is it wise to use the vacuum seal tool to seat it into the knuckle for a flush mount fit? Like how you had it before you installed the hub back on. Cause I have gone through three seals thus far and don't want to keep replacing them.
probably a good idea to use the tool but may not be absolutely necessary.
And if you think about it that is your outer knuckle seal it's on the outside of your knuckle for the vacuum system
I'm just here to judge for wearing crocs 🤠 lol good video
haha, that metal ring you beat up wasn't supposed to go back on, There are 2 versions of the vacuum seal. One with that metal cap built in and the version you replaced it with. Technically you ordered the wrong seal but they both work. The version with metal cap is the newer style.
Is this true? I’m trying to figure that out for myself here
Yes, it's true.
If you have a 99-04 you want part # 3C3Z-3254-CA but either will work. The newer part is supposedly better
You put big tires and lift kit it’s going to wear parts out faster along with how hard you drive it .
The squealing noise I think is the bad needle bearing that has worn grooves into the axle shaft clearly seen at 13:46 and beyond. The seals you removed were if perfect condition and will not stop the squealing. Nice Shop, nice cheap overly clawed hammer, and nice shop Crocs bro.
Sorry, the view of the axle grooves from a bad needle bearing can be seen at 4:42 and beyond. That axle shaft should be smooth metal to the left, not grooved, or it will squeal, grind, and burn up.
What's the tool call you used?
You shouldve replaced hub needle beatings too.shouldve at least greased them
This was a cluster.
You had to know that the metal dust shield was not included , but you beat the hell out of it anyway , also you were that far into it why didn't you change the universal joint , didn't make much sense ! Frank T
Hey. What are the O-Rings for in the kit you linked?
the o-rings are for the inside of the wheel bearing hub assembly
@@wethepeeples8309 I got everything you got and i cannot get these seals on. Been trying for the last hour
Did you get the install tool?
This looks like a crappy designed by for does rubber seals are just going to melt when the axle spins inside it
4:24 what’s that loose seal that slid off ? Mines loose also I’m wondering what it is and if I should replace it
That’s a dust seal that keeps dirty and stuff out of the axle tube
Part name/number on Amazon? Well I know the name just need exact one
Wow beating the dust shield with the claw end of the hammer isn’t smart.
🤠👍
Part numbers
Is this for the 7.3L also?
this kit should work on a 1998-2004 f250 and f350
As long as it’s the Dana 50/60 you’re fine. Doesn’t matter what egine
So the 2006 f350?
Not sure where you live… but I’ve NEVER seen a bearing hub assembly come out by just pulling it lightly by hand…
That's the south. NC,GA,TN, SC,FL, etc. Never worked on a vehicle with rust until I was in my 30s. I'll never purchase anything with rust on it in my life. Salted roads make everything a throw-away.
That's not the inner axle seal. That's the vacuum seal. The inner axle seals are right there by the centersection because oil don't flow through the axle tubes, it's a vacuum fed system, the oil stays in the center section.
It's just a dust seal to keep dirt out of the axle tube.
No, that would be vacuum seal..
@@vincesmith5846how am I wrong about what I said
only video showing real troubles! everyone cuts that from the videos and it most likely full of cussing..lol
how man times have you herd the battery died on repair videos???
Your joints are shot. Yall wasted a $120 in knuckle seals
The universal joints are not shot. But you are correct about the hub needle bearing needing to be greased.
The wooden chair is hummm