I used your video for my Maytag washer. The washer was not draining, so my husband and I looked at everything and took the drains and motor apart as you said, and there was a piece of metal about 2 inches long about a 1/2 centimeter wide in it. The pump worked fine. We put everything back together, and my washer works! Thank you! I felt great afterward cause I fixed something on my own.
Well although this was not exactly my issue it did help me determine the issue. So thanks for that. My washer is maybe 1.5 years old. Once I watched this video I determined my washer was indeed not draining. Flipped it over to check the pump and hoses after draining manually. Low and behold the wires going to the pump actually broke off at the point they came out of the harness. Probably from the ridiculous amount this thing shakes when running. Rewired and we are good to go! Thanks a ton
My washer stopped draining and after fiddling, I had two different bad drain error messages. Followed the video, step by step and found a piece of metal in the drain pump. My bad for putting things in my pocket and then not carefully emptying those pockets. So thanks for the easy to follow video and I really like that you do a quick section on reassembly. Makes that part so much simpler.
A shop vac is really handy for draining the entire system with little to no mess. Don't waste time with a bunch of testing (my opinion) and replace pump. Great and very helpful video! Thanks.
What if it's not the pump? Wasting $50 only to find out your pump wasn't the issue. Testing is free , do it to be sure of what you need, unless you've got money to burn😂 which I currently do not.
Ben, I have the Whirlpool version of this Maytag washer. Let me share my experience so other people may learn some items to check and when to cut losses. My water pump burnt out right at about the 3 year mark. Before buying a new water pump, I confirmed I was reading 120volts on the power leads, and the ohm reading was a bit low and thus figured it was the pump. Put the new pump in and it didn't start. Took an amp reading and got no amp draw. Figuring it might be a bad pump, I rigged up a 120 volt AC test lead to the pump and found it turned immediately. I then hooked up a 10 watt incandescent light bulb to the power leads and found it did not light when the drain pump was turned on in the diagnostic mode. This lead me to the board being bad. I should have cut my losses there and bought a new one, but decided to replace the board as it had been an expensive washer when new and had served me well so far. Replaced the board, ran through the diagnostic cycle and calibration cycle. Then ran an afresh cycle just to check for complete operation. I then loaded it up with clothes and it started working just fine until it was doing the spin for the end of the wash cycle. The washer went into medium speed spin, activated the drain pump off and on, and then about the time it should have kicked into the higher spin speeds, the timer stopped and failed to move forward. It does a similar stuck for the rinse and spin. I tried diagnosing more, but after checking the water indicator line for clean and a good seal, and all connections being tight, I can only conclude the board I got (which is a remanufactured as new by information on the box) is bad. I am now out $400+ dollars and so far Whirlpool has not been much help. Therefore, I recommend everyone that if you have this model, or the whirlpool equivalent, and the water pump doesn't burn out open, make sure you test both the pump and the power coming from the board for correct operation before spending anymore money. Otherwise, you will end up like me, $400 dollars poorer at the laundromat while trying to get some help from Whirlpool. I should note, the washer was used to wash about 1.25 load of clothes per week for the first two years, and about 3 loads for the last year. My experience with this washer breaking and then basically not being reparable has really shaken my faith in buying another Maytag / Whirlpool product.
I had to buy a board for this machine, ordered it through the link off maytag's website and they sent me a fried board with scorch marks on two of the connectors, for $500! This company doesn't give af. I got them to send me another board and now I'm up and running though I can't set the spin cycle higher than medium or the machine just spins slow and hangs.
I completely second this!! Do NOT waste your money on this piece of crap. 2 and a half years old replaced actuator, clutch, and now transmission is gone all within a couple months!! Buying a used washer this time at least I won't feel so bad about it if it breaks in a year or 2.
@@mamadukes2219 ours didn't spin...called repairman...he put a new acuator...6 months later...doing the same dang thing again!!! He said they updated it when he replaced it but I refuse to keep fixing it all the time..gonna buy different brand. They are not made like they used to be...Maytag used to be good...not anymore.
Thank you! This was the first video that was setup like my Maytag. Had to remove the bottom storage to access it and get help to set it down, but after removing the pump hoses I immediately saw it was a pair of underwear stuck in the pump. I felt the resistance of the blades like the video said and used some needle-nosed pliers to pull them out fairly easily! Thank you!
Just is case someone is looking for a solution to issues with this washer. 1st thing, before spending any money- open the back and then untape the wires running down next to the tub. These wires are small (too small) and break easily. Don't ask why I say to check this before spending anything on parts....!
My GE washer that I bought in 1997 died in August. It was not unexpected and in preparation for this day I researched various replacement washers. Thanks to your incredible videos I decided that a refurbished machine was the best option. I had planned to buy from a local company. But the handyman who is doing work on my home got a washer from a lady who replaced it with a new one. The lady said the washer still worked. It is the Roper RTW4440XQ. The washer was cleaned and has been fine so far. The only info I could find about the machine was its listing on Lowe's website. It was made in 2011 and has been discontinued. Maybe it was not popular? What has been your experience with this Roper model? I can't find any videos about it.
Nice video, very insightful info. Question: On MVW6200KW1 By Maytag. At first only blinking sense light. Lid wouldnt even lock. Discovered lid lock micro switchs were sticking 50 % of the time. So replaced with a new OEM Whirlpool lid lock assembly. Same response. Ordered another board from JimmyShop as research indicated board was bad. Same response. Returned got a replacement. Put it on. Now 1st lid locks, 2nd tub spins rapidly, then 3rd begins a series of gentle back n forth agitations over 10 or so minutes and water filling then stops( led on wash) no further functions. No drain ! Lid still locked. If i drop drain line and empty all water then lid unlocks ( still plugged in) tested pump with meter 19.99, pump impeller turns as normal as noted on this video. No blockages in drainline or pump. Agitation seems much to gentle and weak when led is on wash. I tried normal, quick wash, towels cycles. Tried another motor same response. Whenni try drain n spin only cylce with water in tub pump doesnt come on. Unless i drop drainline , empty all water then itll spin. Pump never comes on. Im unsure im testing capacitor on motor correctly. I get a climbing readout. Even when reversing leads on multimeter. Climbs constant after 25 seconds even after 20 or more seconds. Tried a second capacitor no change. Any suggestions are appreciated. Otherwise next i think it has a second capacitor under console i will check after verifying im testing them correctly. And wiring to pump.
Thanks Ben for all the information you’ve provided on UA-cam. I’m 70 and still learning and that’s why I enjoy watching your channel. I faced the challenge of my banging model # WP350ANP/XAA01, 2012 Samsung “VRT Steam” front loading washer buy replacing all four shock absorbers, spider bracket, seal, and bearings but now it bangs at just the start of the spin cycle. I’ve watched yours and others videos searching for the combination of button presses to do a calibration and tried all that I found but still failed to achieve a calibration. I’m wondering if you could help me with that information, it would be greatly appreciated. Kent 😊
You are a gem! Me and hubby were wracking our brains on where the heck this filter was, couldn't find it in the manual (Maytag top load washer with deep fill MVW6200KW)
Under the tub with bottom portion he shows on video seen after removing pump. Most of the time you can grab the object with needle nose pliers. Cause the Only way to remove the filter is to remove the top, the washplate, the tub ring, the hub gear, the metal tub itself. Very laborous. Lol.
@@FGLeon01Well it wont spin when itts full of water. If the pump fails to come on it will not spin. Did it wash/agitate properly or did it seem weak then fail to drain or spin? Normally the things hes suggested in this video clear up the problem. But im still having this issue. Ive done several. But first time on this model.
Oh if youll follow his suggestion to manually drain water lid should unlock . If not also unplug for several minutes then replug and it should unlock.
Thanks for making this VERY INFORMATIVE video. My wash basket won't lower itself. It sounds like it's full of water. 😢 Hopefully I can put this new knowledge to use.
Thanks. The issue with our model was the wirre not sending power to the pump. The wire iverheated and broke but not at the connection area. Odd that it was about 12in from control board down.
Just replaced a TWO year old one of these. Main circuit board went out and was replaced and replacement went out immediately. Technician said now have to install another board and electronic lock that appeared to trip board. Technician was nice guy but third time to house in six weeks to throw parts at a machine that has too many defects. Gave up. Bought GE Commwrcial grade that might be junk too hopefully not but at least has 5 years parts and labor warranty
Was it the lid lock? Mine shorted out and blew up the control board. The lid lock thing has a relay in it and it's powered off AC mains voltage! Absolutely insane, and when it shorts it blows up components on the main board. I don't know what repair guys are paying but a consumer getting these parts from maytag pays 200 for the lid lock module and 500 for the control board. The first control board they sent me was fried and had scorch marks on one of the pcb header sockets.
Depends on model but generally yes. We price them near the same. IMHO a Kenmore Elite Direct Drive is the crown jewel of the DD collection, and its priced as such if we can get them working the way we want.
@@bensappliancesandjunk I have a kenmore direct drive in working on currently, is there models you would recommend me staying away from? I picked up my first batch of washers and dryers the other day
@@bukursglass6990 all the DDs are great. The only iffy ones are the newer ones that have the Automatic Temperature Control switches (ATCs) as they are costly to replace. But not otherwise difficult to work on or fix. Just a newer wrinkle on repairs that most built before 2008-ish didn't have.
@@bensappliancesandjunk your amazing man!! I actually broke the lint filter on this kenmore, it sits at the bottom of the drum, I’m sure you know what I’m talking about, I’ve been taking a part each appliance and deep cleaning them in hopes it will add value for my customers, I was so worried cause I couldn’t find a replacement lint trap online , but I found lint trap plugs, have you ever heard of them or ran into this problem?
good evening sorry for bothering you on Sunday but I have a Maytag centennial washer that makes a big jerk at the end of the spin cycle could you please tell me what that could be.
Mine smells terrible no matter how much I clean it with those affresh tabs. When you turned this one over the white plastic thing looks like this one is nasty too. How do we deep clean these? 3:07
Hey Ben. I have this washer. Woke up one day and washer wouldn't do anything. I replaced main control board and it powered up and seemed to be working until the spin cycle started. It will not spin fast and it won't quit spinning staying on 25 minutes on machine. I can stop the wash and turn in to drain and spin and it will complete the fast spin cycle. Any advice?
Hey Ben, I recently bought a perfectly functioning Maytag washer produced in Sept 1985 as a spare. I’ll be storing it in my garage here in freezing Michigan. Q. Need to winterize it? Q. If so…what do I do? I’m fairly handy…so I should be able to follow your directions? Thx Doug
To winterize our cabin in NM, I use RV antifreeze in it, just pour about a half a quart in the tub and then run the rinse/spin cycle, it works and no problems yet after years of doing that.
Maytag is junked after 4 years machine is down related drain pump, after I have been working on the pump restart machine light 💡 back on I did bleeding air out of valve still the issue. I’m going back manually machine less stressed from many sensors switched.
I had a whirlpool commercial quality that lasted 20 years. I am disappointed with the latest Maytag purchase. Its only a year in and not draining, F9E1 error
Anything outside of the top load Timer Switch Whirlpool based washer or the Belt Driven Whirlpool based washer, are nothing but trash. Dont bother with laundry centers or front loaders.
@@gregscott4479so go with pump and main board and u/i? Im confused as if the main board is sending voltage to the pump then its just a bad drain pump.
@@gregscott4479it's why I use a Timer Switch Direct Drive Whirlpool based unit with the water pump right off the drive motor. The only other washer I would use is the belt driven Whirlpool based unit due to ease of maintenance and reliability (yes WP fixed the pcb on the belt driven unit)
@@swampcabbage3239 I dropped a reply in here where even if you get voltage there, it can be ghost voltage caused by the water pump taking out board also. They changed the part number on both which tells me they had a really high failure rate. I would try fixing my own board, but in their wisdom, they incased it in some kind of silicone sealant that would make fixing it a very annoying job.
I will say the more expensive washers are made on lines that are known for…not the best quality. Cheaper ones are made on a line with better quality and higher production rates…👀 (I’d like to go back to the job one day, so I can’t say anything wild.) But, I will say if you can get yourself in touch with an employee, they’re allowed to send out discount codes in case fixing it doesn’t work. I wish I had learned repairs before leaving the job. Nope. Just know how to put on everything in the bottom 😅
I absolutely HATE the Maytag top loader I purchased new a couple of years ago. I chose Maytag primarily because of the "Made in USA" tag on it. I now realize I should have taken into consideration the satisfaction I've heard from people who own Samsungs.
Hey Ben help My Maytag washing machine (MVWB755DW0) was having a problem where the door lock would not work unless you pulled it up just a little. After replacing it now for it to lock properly we sometimes have to keep trying over and over for it to finally lock… used to get code f5 e2 now I only get f5.
I used your video for my Maytag washer. The washer was not draining, so my husband and I looked at everything and took the drains and motor apart as you said, and there was a piece of metal about 2 inches long about a 1/2 centimeter wide in it. The pump worked fine. We put everything back together, and my washer works! Thank you! I felt great afterward cause I fixed something on my own.
Well although this was not exactly my issue it did help me determine the issue. So thanks for that. My washer is maybe 1.5 years old. Once I watched this video I determined my washer was indeed not draining. Flipped it over to check the pump and hoses after draining manually. Low and behold the wires going to the pump actually broke off at the point they came out of the harness. Probably from the ridiculous amount this thing shakes when running. Rewired and we are good to go! Thanks a ton
Umm your comment has inspired me to recheck mine on MVW6200KW1. Did your wash agitation also seem to weak? Thanks
My washer stopped draining and after fiddling, I had two different bad drain error messages. Followed the video, step by step and found a piece of metal in the drain pump. My bad for putting things in my pocket and then not carefully emptying those pockets. So thanks for the easy to follow video and I really like that you do a quick section on reassembly. Makes that part so much simpler.
A shop vac is really handy for draining the entire system with little to no mess. Don't waste time with a bunch of testing (my opinion) and replace pump. Great and very helpful video! Thanks.
What if it's not the pump? Wasting $50 only to find out your pump wasn't the issue. Testing is free , do it to be sure of what you need, unless you've got money to burn😂 which I currently do not.
Ben, I have the Whirlpool version of this Maytag washer. Let me share my experience so other people may learn some items to check and when to cut losses. My water pump burnt out right at about the 3 year mark. Before buying a new water pump, I confirmed I was reading 120volts on the power leads, and the ohm reading was a bit low and thus figured it was the pump. Put the new pump in and it didn't start. Took an amp reading and got no amp draw. Figuring it might be a bad pump, I rigged up a 120 volt AC test lead to the pump and found it turned immediately. I then hooked up a 10 watt incandescent light bulb to the power leads and found it did not light when the drain pump was turned on in the diagnostic mode.
This lead me to the board being bad. I should have cut my losses there and bought a new one, but decided to replace the board as it had been an expensive washer when new and had served me well so far. Replaced the board, ran through the diagnostic cycle and calibration cycle. Then ran an afresh cycle just to check for complete operation. I then loaded it up with clothes and it started working just fine until it was doing the spin for the end of the wash cycle. The washer went into medium speed spin, activated the drain pump off and on, and then about the time it should have kicked into the higher spin speeds, the timer stopped and failed to move forward. It does a similar stuck for the rinse and spin. I tried diagnosing more, but after checking the water indicator line for clean and a good seal, and all connections being tight, I can only conclude the board I got (which is a remanufactured as new by information on the box) is bad. I am now out $400+ dollars and so far Whirlpool has not been much help.
Therefore, I recommend everyone that if you have this model, or the whirlpool equivalent, and the water pump doesn't burn out open, make sure you test both the pump and the power coming from the board for correct operation before spending anymore money. Otherwise, you will end up like me, $400 dollars poorer at the laundromat while trying to get some help from Whirlpool.
I should note, the washer was used to wash about 1.25 load of clothes per week for the first two years, and about 3 loads for the last year. My experience with this washer breaking and then basically not being reparable has really shaken my faith in buying another Maytag / Whirlpool product.
I had to buy a board for this machine, ordered it through the link off maytag's website and they sent me a fried board with scorch marks on two of the connectors, for $500! This company doesn't give af. I got them to send me another board and now I'm up and running though I can't set the spin cycle higher than medium or the machine just spins slow and hangs.
I completely second this!! Do NOT waste your money on this piece of crap. 2 and a half years old replaced actuator, clutch, and now transmission is gone all within a couple months!! Buying a used washer this time at least I won't feel so bad about it if it breaks in a year or 2.
@@mamadukes2219 ours didn't spin...called repairman...he put a new acuator...6 months later...doing the same dang thing again!!! He said they updated it when he replaced it but I refuse to keep fixing it all the time..gonna buy different brand. They are not made like they used to be...Maytag used to be good...not anymore.
Absolutely hands down the worst washing machine I have ever owned.
It is an absolute piece of shit
Literally I’m here trying to figure out why this stupid thing has no error code, won’t drain, and won’t unlock. 💀
Apparently you never owned a Samsung that were know to fly apart
I will never buy another Maytag product as long as I live. I’ve never had a worse washer
@@MF-gx9ydon 00,q6q6s8 7h🎉5🎉g7
Thank you! This was the first video that was setup like my Maytag. Had to remove the bottom storage to access it and get help to set it down, but after removing the pump hoses I immediately saw it was a pair of underwear stuck in the pump. I felt the resistance of the blades like the video said and used some needle-nosed pliers to pull them out fairly easily! Thank you!
Just is case someone is looking for a solution to issues with this washer. 1st thing, before spending any money- open the back and then untape the wires running down next to the tub. These wires are small (too small) and break easily. Don't ask why I say to check this before spending anything on parts....!
Nice job you help me fix my Maytag as far as other suspension rod for a bad in it and I learned that from your video thanks a ton
My GE washer that I bought in 1997 died in August. It was not unexpected and in preparation for this day I researched various replacement washers. Thanks to your incredible videos I decided that a refurbished machine was the best option. I had planned to buy from a local company. But the handyman who is doing work on my home got a washer from a lady who replaced it with a new one. The lady said the washer still worked. It is the Roper RTW4440XQ. The washer was cleaned and has been fine so far. The only info I could find about the machine was its listing on Lowe's website. It was made in 2011 and has been discontinued. Maybe it was not popular?
What has been your experience with this Roper model? I can't find any videos about it.
Nice video, very insightful info.
Question: On MVW6200KW1 By Maytag. At first only blinking sense light. Lid wouldnt even lock. Discovered lid lock micro switchs were sticking 50 % of the time. So replaced with a new OEM Whirlpool lid lock assembly. Same response. Ordered another board from JimmyShop as research indicated board was bad. Same response. Returned got a replacement. Put it on. Now 1st lid locks, 2nd tub spins rapidly, then 3rd begins a series of gentle back n forth agitations over 10 or so minutes and water filling then stops( led on wash) no further functions. No drain ! Lid still locked. If i drop drain line and empty all water then lid unlocks ( still plugged in) tested pump with meter 19.99, pump impeller turns as normal as noted on this video. No blockages in drainline or pump. Agitation seems much to gentle and weak when led is on wash. I tried normal, quick wash, towels cycles. Tried another motor same response. Whenni try drain n spin only cylce with water in tub pump doesnt come on. Unless i drop drainline , empty all water then itll spin. Pump never comes on. Im unsure im testing capacitor on motor correctly. I get a climbing readout. Even when reversing leads on multimeter. Climbs constant after 25 seconds even after 20 or more seconds. Tried a second capacitor no change. Any suggestions are appreciated. Otherwise next i think it has a second capacitor under console i will check after verifying im testing them correctly. And wiring to pump.
Thanks Ben for all the information you’ve provided on UA-cam.
I’m 70 and still learning and that’s why I enjoy watching your channel. I faced the challenge of my banging model # WP350ANP/XAA01, 2012 Samsung “VRT Steam” front loading washer buy replacing all four shock absorbers, spider bracket, seal, and bearings but now it bangs at just the start of the spin cycle. I’ve watched yours and others videos searching for the combination of button presses to do a calibration and tried all that I found but still failed to achieve a calibration. I’m wondering if you could help me with that information, it would be greatly appreciated.
Kent 😊
You are a gem! Me and hubby were wracking our brains on where the heck this filter was, couldn't find it in the manual (Maytag top load washer with deep fill MVW6200KW)
What was the issue with that model? Because mine doesn’t spin after it’s full with water. Any tips?
Under the tub with bottom portion he shows on video seen after removing pump. Most of the time you can grab the object with needle nose pliers. Cause the Only way to remove the filter is to remove the top, the washplate, the tub ring, the hub gear, the metal tub itself. Very laborous. Lol.
@@FGLeon01Well it wont spin when itts full of water. If the pump fails to come on it will not spin. Did it wash/agitate properly or did it seem weak then fail to drain or spin? Normally the things hes suggested in this video clear up the problem. But im still having this issue. Ive done several. But first time on this model.
Oh if youll follow his suggestion to manually drain water lid should unlock . If not also unplug for several minutes then replug and it should unlock.
Thanks for making this VERY INFORMATIVE video. My wash basket won't lower itself. It sounds like it's full of water. 😢 Hopefully I can put this new knowledge to use.
I have a top loading Maytag. Did the diagnostic test and rinse lit up and stayed lit. Any suggestions??
Thank you! You just saved me 800 + dollars!!!
Thanks. The issue with our model was the wirre not sending power to the pump. The wire iverheated and broke but not at the connection area. Odd that it was about 12in from control board down.
That seems to be a common occurrence from videos I have seen. The wire is a light gauge aluminum and seems to have a problem with breakage.
Ordered mine thank you for video and link, I have exact machine your working on.
Just replaced a TWO year old one of these. Main circuit board went out and was replaced and replacement went out immediately. Technician said now have to install another board and electronic lock that appeared to trip board. Technician was nice guy but third time to house in six weeks to throw parts at a machine that has too many defects. Gave up. Bought GE Commwrcial grade that might be junk too hopefully not but at least has 5 years parts and labor warranty
Was it the lid lock? Mine shorted out and blew up the control board. The lid lock thing has a relay in it and it's powered off AC mains voltage! Absolutely insane, and when it shorts it blows up components on the main board. I don't know what repair guys are paying but a consumer getting these parts from maytag pays 200 for the lid lock module and 500 for the control board. The first control board they sent me was fried and had scorch marks on one of the pcb header sockets.
Very nice. I appreciate your videos. Please keep it up! Please let me know when you get Patreon set up!
When you sell your older direct drives do they fetch a similar price as your newer used machines?
Depends on model but generally yes. We price them near the same. IMHO a Kenmore Elite Direct Drive is the crown jewel of the DD collection, and its priced as such if we can get them working the way we want.
@@bensappliancesandjunk I have a kenmore direct drive in working on currently, is there models you would recommend me staying away from? I picked up my first batch of washers and dryers the other day
@@bukursglass6990 all the DDs are great. The only iffy ones are the newer ones that have the Automatic Temperature Control switches (ATCs) as they are costly to replace. But not otherwise difficult to work on or fix. Just a newer wrinkle on repairs that most built before 2008-ish didn't have.
@@bensappliancesandjunk your amazing man!! I actually broke the lint filter on this kenmore, it sits at the bottom of the drum, I’m sure you know what I’m talking about, I’ve been taking a part each appliance and deep cleaning them in hopes it will add value for my customers, I was so worried cause I couldn’t find a replacement lint trap online , but I found lint trap plugs, have you ever heard of them or ran into this problem?
Thanks for informative video 🍀
So nice of you
good evening sorry for bothering you on Sunday but I have a Maytag centennial washer that makes a big jerk at the end of the spin cycle could you please tell me what that could be.
Mine smells terrible no matter how much I clean it with those affresh tabs. When you turned this one over the white plastic thing looks like this one is nasty too. How do we deep clean these? 3:07
Hey Ben. I have this washer. Woke up one day and washer wouldn't do anything. I replaced main control board and it powered up and seemed to be working until the spin cycle started. It will not spin fast and it won't quit spinning staying on 25 minutes on machine. I can stop the wash and turn in to drain and spin and it will complete the fast spin cycle. Any advice?
Also I have no error codes.
It just keeps spinning for hours on slow.
3:22 right here. White plastic piece looks so nasty on the back side. How do we clean that?
How is it that you know how to read wiring diagrams. Could you make a video on that?
Hey Ben,
I recently bought a perfectly functioning Maytag washer produced in Sept 1985 as a spare.
I’ll be storing it in my garage here in freezing Michigan.
Q. Need to winterize it?
Q. If so…what do I do?
I’m fairly handy…so I should be able to follow your directions?
Thx
Doug
Just make sure all the water is drained. I'd be more worried of mice honestly
Ok, Just wondering if the pump will break if it has water in it and freezes
@@flyonbyyayes
To winterize our cabin in NM, I use RV antifreeze in it, just pour about a half a quart in the tub and then run the rinse/spin cycle, it works and no problems yet after years of doing that.
Maytag is junked after 4 years machine is down related drain pump, after I have been working on the pump restart machine light 💡 back on I did bleeding air out of valve still the issue. I’m going back manually machine less stressed from many sensors switched.
I had a whirlpool commercial quality that lasted 20 years. I am disappointed with the latest Maytag purchase. Its only a year in and not draining, F9E1 error
My wife replaced the pump and still getting f9e1 error message
What would a bad motor read electronically? Mine is basically 0 ohms. Springs and magnet seem fine.
My new Maytag is bouncing all over the place. How to put suspension rods on a newer model and recalibrate it?
Ben, What do you think about the combo washer dryer unit?
The one I did the review on?
Anything outside of the top load Timer Switch Whirlpool based washer or the Belt Driven Whirlpool based washer, are nothing but trash. Dont bother with laundry centers or front loaders.
Obstruction, bad wires/pcb, bad pump electromagnet, bad pump impeller bearings, worn out impeller. Bad lid lock.
@@gregscott4479so go with pump and main board and u/i? Im confused as if the main board is sending voltage to the pump then its just a bad drain pump.
@@gregscott4479it's why I use a Timer Switch Direct Drive Whirlpool based unit with the water pump right off the drive motor. The only other washer I would use is the belt driven Whirlpool based unit due to ease of maintenance and reliability (yes WP fixed the pcb on the belt driven unit)
@@swampcabbage3239 I dropped a reply in here where even if you get voltage there, it can be ghost voltage caused by the water pump taking out board also. They changed the part number on both which tells me they had a really high failure rate. I would try fixing my own board, but in their wisdom, they incased it in some kind of silicone sealant that would make fixing it a very annoying job.
Good job guys
Does anyone know what that star looking plastic that’s on top on the drain called he showed it at 3:34
RAM,
I believe the star shape is a star shaped locator for the drain filter which is a piece of.
Remove the drum and clear drain filter.
I will say the more expensive washers are made on lines that are known for…not the best quality. Cheaper ones are made on a line with better quality and higher production rates…👀 (I’d like to go back to the job one day, so I can’t say anything wild.) But, I will say if you can get yourself in touch with an employee, they’re allowed to send out discount codes in case fixing it doesn’t work. I wish I had learned repairs before leaving the job. Nope. Just know how to put on everything in the bottom 😅
Ive picked up a few those just over a year old. Junk machines indeed.
Bought a house which came with a set....agree! Junk and looks almost too which is sad
So a whirlpool pump will work for a maytag washer?
Washer Model # MVWB765FW0
Our washer is only 11 months old and I'm going to tear into to it right now because it's have similar issues.
🙋♂️Hello my Friend ben...hello brasil...👏👍😁🇧🇷...thanks video...
Hello 👋
I put the washer down on its front so most of the water drains back in the machine.
I absolutely HATE the Maytag top loader I purchased new a couple of years ago.
I chose Maytag primarily because of the "Made in USA" tag on it.
I now realize I should have taken into consideration the satisfaction I've heard from people who own Samsungs.
Hey Ben help
My Maytag washing machine (MVWB755DW0) was having a problem where the door lock would not work unless you pulled it up just a little. After replacing it now for it to lock properly we sometimes have to keep trying over and over for it to finally lock… used to get code f5 e2 now I only get f5.
Beware of replacement pumps from amazon. Have had 2 fail after a few mo ths already.
Error code.?
Throw that junk away!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Here's how you fix it, push it into a scrap hopper and buy a refurbished 20nyr old Kenmore and don't look back absolutely fucking garbage
Не крутиться барабан як розкрутити мова украінською