Your straightforward videos are a great preview to my upcoming build beginning in April. I imagine with all else going on video production adds a layer of complication to your life - but your audience is appreciative.
Thanks for the note. I’m glad I can be of some help. I relied on several people posting their experiences to get through the build. FYI, the build experience was the time off my life- had a blast building this thing.
Thanks! The aluminum is a really fun part of the project-- it moves along quickly and there's a lot of instant satisfaction with each panel installed. Thanks for watching.
The solid rear axle is so much easier and i know it well. I cried when the new mustangs switched to IRS. I'll definitely be sticking with a solid rear axle. I don't see why the IRS in the new mustangs adds so much weight though. There ain't much to it and you don't have the large axle tubes of the 8.8. Where is all the weight? Have yet to order my kit, but your videos are helping solidify my decisions.😀
I'm not sure about the weight difference. I'm guessing the whole assembly from the center dif to the wheels is probably under 100 pounds (totally a guess). What I will say is that I love the ride. In this car you are basically sitting on top of the rear axle, and the IRS is giving me a smoother ride than I thought I was going to experience in this car. I've hit a few pot holes already that I thought were going to rattle teeth loose, but the suspension took it with grace. The roads are pretty bumpy around me and my thoughts were the IRS would be a little more forgiving in terms of keeping the power on the road. I have ridden in a FFR with a solid rear axle and without a doubt, mine is a smoother ride. I know there are a bunch of factors at play (spring weight, shocks...etc) but in my one comparison, I'm happy I went with the IRS. However with that said, many swear the solid rear axle can ride as well as the IRS if it's properly set up.
Loving your work! I raced a monocoque chassis car for many years, do yourself a favor and buy a pneumatic or electric rivet gun! It makes things so much easier!
Loving your build! Thanks for sharing your experiences. I noticed you don't use jack stands. Is there a reason for that? Is the dolly you have custom built?
I ended up making the dolly from a set of plans on the Factory Five Forum. I used the dolly because it allows me to move it around making it easier raise and lower the body off the chassis. The other reason is that without the engine, the frame/suspension...etc, don't weigh enough to firmly plant themselves down. So if the car was sitting on jack stands, there's a good chance you could tip them when you're trying to torque down on a bolt, or wrench an aluminum panel into place, or muscling in the rear end. Before the motor was in, I could easily lift the front or rear end solo-- just too light for my liking on jack stands. I know many use stands, so I'm sure it's safe. But the added mobility and safety made my decision an easy one. Oh, and it also made picking up the kit at FFR much much easier.
@@007Cajun I wished my kids could have been more involved. They are away at school. However, they have been following the videos and now that they are home are having a blast watching me button this thing up!
Just FYI, unless there's a compelling reason (i.e. no space, manual calls out something different, etc.) usually bolts go in top to bottom or front to back. This way they have a tendency to stay in place should the nut ever come off.
@@randomwerks3763 Don’t forget to put a mark on everything that has been torqued, It’ll save time later. I bought a tube of blue torque goo (for lack of a better term) on Amazon. If you lay it across the stable part to the nut it doubles as an indicator showing that the nut has not moved over time
Your straightforward videos are a great preview to my upcoming build beginning in April. I imagine with all else going on video production adds a layer of complication to your life - but your audience is appreciative.
Yes the video part is a bit of a challenge-- but its also a fun way to document the journey.
Thank you for documenting your build. My Roadster kit will be here any day now so this is good timing.
Keep the videos coming. They're giving me inspiration to build one myself.
loving the videos, looks like youre moving right along. this is a great because ill be using your videos as a tool to build mine when i order it
Thanks for watching. There were several videos that I watched in preparation for my build- I’m just paying forward. :)
Well done! Your video answers questions FFR Tech and the Forum can not!
Thanks for the note. I’m glad I can be of some help. I relied on several people posting their experiences to get through the build.
FYI, the build experience was the time off my life- had a blast building this thing.
The aluminum came out nice 👍
Thanks! The aluminum is a really fun part of the project-- it moves along quickly and there's a lot of instant satisfaction with each panel installed.
Thanks for watching.
Is your little rivet template something that was included or something that you made?
What type of silicone sealant / caulking do you use, and is that included as part of the kit purchase?
I use a 100 percent clear silicone. It’s not included but obviously readily available. I think I used 6 tubes.
The solid rear axle is so much easier and i know it well. I cried when the new mustangs switched to IRS. I'll definitely be sticking with a solid rear axle. I don't see why the IRS in the new mustangs adds so much weight though. There ain't much to it and you don't have the large axle tubes of the 8.8. Where is all the weight? Have yet to order my kit, but your videos are helping solidify my decisions.😀
I'm not sure about the weight difference. I'm guessing the whole assembly from the center dif to the wheels is probably under 100 pounds (totally a guess). What I will say is that I love the ride. In this car you are basically sitting on top of the rear axle, and the IRS is giving me a smoother ride than I thought I was going to experience in this car. I've hit a few pot holes already that I thought were going to rattle teeth loose, but the suspension took it with grace. The roads are pretty bumpy around me and my thoughts were the IRS would be a little more forgiving in terms of keeping the power on the road. I have ridden in a FFR with a solid rear axle and without a doubt, mine is a smoother ride. I know there are a bunch of factors at play (spring weight, shocks...etc) but in my one comparison, I'm happy I went with the IRS. However with that said, many swear the solid rear axle can ride as well as the IRS if it's properly set up.
Loving your work! I raced a monocoque chassis car for many years, do yourself a favor and buy a pneumatic or electric rivet gun! It makes things so much easier!
Great call!
Yes my forearms are killing me.
How did you source the differential? Is it new or rebuilt? Is the donor from a Mustang, Cobra Mustang, or Mk VIII?
I purchased it new from factory five. It’s an independent suspension from a 2015 or newer mustang.
Loving your build! Thanks for sharing your experiences. I noticed you don't use jack stands. Is there a reason for that? Is the dolly you have custom built?
I ended up making the dolly from a set of plans on the Factory Five Forum. I used the dolly because it allows me to move it around making it easier raise and lower the body off the chassis. The other reason is that without the engine, the frame/suspension...etc, don't weigh enough to firmly plant themselves down. So if the car was sitting on jack stands, there's a good chance you could tip them when you're trying to torque down on a bolt, or wrench an aluminum panel into place, or muscling in the rear end. Before the motor was in, I could easily lift the front or rear end solo-- just too light for my liking on jack stands. I know many use stands, so I'm sure it's safe. But the added mobility and safety made my decision an easy one. Oh, and it also made picking up the kit at FFR much much easier.
Gotcha, makes sense
What are you using to center punch panels. Looks easier than punch and hammer
It’s a spring loaded center punch. They sell them at Harbor Freight. I’ve had mine forever- not sure where I bought it though.
@@randomwerks3763 awesome. I really want to build a cobra with my son. Enjoying your videos as they give me a good picture of what is involved
@@007Cajun I wished my kids could have been more involved. They are away at school. However, they have been following the videos and now that they are home are having a blast watching me button this thing up!
Is that a handmade spacing ruler or did you purchase it?
I believe you are referring to the aluminum spacer that comes with the kit. Factory Five ships that to help properly space the rivets.
Just FYI, unless there's a compelling reason (i.e. no space, manual calls out something different, etc.) usually bolts go in top to bottom or front to back. This way they have a tendency to stay in place should the nut ever come off.
Thanks! That makes a lot of sense. I still need to go back and tourqe everything once it’s sitting on its suspension
@@randomwerks3763 Don’t forget to put a mark on everything that has been torqued, It’ll save time later. I bought a tube of blue torque goo (for lack of a better term) on Amazon. If you lay it across the stable part to the nut it doubles as an indicator showing that the nut has not moved over time
@@Bradatp
Thanks for the advice! I will do exactly that. Keep them coming!