It actually will work better if the citric acid water is HOT. Also, don't empty the acid out to neutralize it with baking soda. Slowly add in the baking soda and keep stirring. Once the pH is raised up to around 9 or 10 you will see the finish of the iron turn to black. This is some of the iron in the acid solution re-depositing back onto the iron as magnetite. You can read about this process used in the cleaning of thousands of ton boilers. It is called Citrisolve. Used it by the tanker load all over the world. Common method for cleaning newly constructed steam boilers for making power.
So if you do the way you described does it remove the rust And then coat with a thin layer of magnatite that bonds to it and prevents rust without having to paint it? Also will that work if I use vinegar instead of citric acid and then neutralize it with the baking soda as you said going beyond neutral ph7 to ph9? How long in ph9? Then what, just rinse in water and you're done?
@@user-tf8mi3nt6j Yes, you can use vinegar instead of citric acid. And you can also use regular RealLemon juice to supply the citric acid. RealLemon is around 4 % citric acid. And when you neutralize it with the baking soda, you will need to go a little slowly as it is going to foam and fizz a little bit. As I said warm is better than room temperature, but not so hot you cannot touch it. Allow the baking soda to dissolve and sit for a couple of hours with a little stirring occasionally. Once the black iron magnetite is formed, you can simply reach in and remove the tool, throw out the solution and just rinse in normal water from the tap. Dry it and apply a light oil to prevent rust back For tools that you want to have that burnished look and still show their age but without that red / orange rust color you can also do a bit of extra iron to assist in forming that layer. Just clean a small piece of steel wool with paint thinner and dry the steel wool well. Put it in the bowl with the tool you are working on. When at the final stage with the baking soda, take the steel wool and rub the finish together with the tool gently to assist in transferring the magnetite to the tool. Then after the tool is rinsed, dried, and oiled take the steel wool, add oil, and gently burnish the tool surfaces. Keep up the work on saving these old tools. I find them much better quality than you can get new.
Others posted this as well. Just use apple cider vinegar, then do the baking soda bath to neutralize the action of the vinegar. Then l spray the entire to with WD-40. Brought many rusted yard sale and flea market tools back to life!!
I believe that some individuals in the comments column are really missing the point here. It's not about the plyers... it's about how to remove rust off from rusted objects or surfaces.
Great vid 👍 Worth trying this first to remove rust. If no good, one can then try with a more expensive non-organic acid product like phosphoric or hydrochloric.
I've seen local dollar stores that carry lineman's pliers. I'd also follow up with penetrating oil (NOT WD-40) to soak into the small crevices to help loosen any hidden internal rust.
@@YouFellForTheBait WD-40 is neither a true lubricant nor a penetrating oil. It's kerosene-based and more of a cleaner and rust-inhibitor. I use WD-40 on my electric hedge clipper blades to lightly lubricate and inhibit rust. It also works great for keyed lock cylinders although purists may suggest powdered graphite for that purpose. Thank you.
This was really helpful! My dickhead friend left a bunch of my tools outside and I found them about a month later in the dirt in the same condition, but this cleaned them right up. I think it'll also work for cleaning some electrical contacts on my motorhome.
Citric acid diluted with water is also great for cleaning rifle brass shells before reloading. Gets all the crap out. Just don't use a strong solution and be sure to get them dry.
I do the same thing with vinegar. then baking soda and water bath, then heat gun it dry, then dunk the whole piece in Marvels Mystery oil. Then a cloth wipe down to dry. That handle will move like BUTTAH after.
Canola oil its food safe non stick non toxic and has high heat resistance and its cheaper than mm i heard its a popular alternative to bar and chain oil on chainsaws i tried it seems to work great 👍 only canola not vegetable or olive do not mix in gas only for chain lube.
What is the desired concentration of the acid in the water? Or do you just eyeball it, like a lot of us? Thanks for the video. P.S. For anyone looking for something that may be a little stronger, instead of using grocery store vinegar (typically a 5% solution), try getting a gallon or more of 30% vinegar, you should use this outside with gloves and safety glasses, but it works faster, but is not as strong or dangerous as muriatic acid.
In my experience (and I just did this earlier today), start with a mix of vinegar and salt, it works much faster. But all the more reason to neutralize the reaction with baking soda... The vinegar/salt reaction might only take a few hours or so, but you absolutely have to neutralize it with baking soda. During the reactions, occasionally brush the metals off of course. But afterwards, make sure to neutralize as stated. Then use anything except WD-40, that's not considered a proper long term oil. I use 3-in-1 oil as an initial preservative oil.
This worked pretty good maybe Ill give it a try. I have been using electrolysis with excellent results. After cleanup I wipe down all surfaces with 3in1 oil.....if you do not it will flash rust.....then you are back at square one.
Alco Power Don't you have to bake them afterwards at 400 deg. for a couple of hours. I've heard that this process infuses hydrogen which makes the metal weak.
Heard years ago about a method for simultaneously de-rusting and SHARPENING rusty files via treatment with an aggressive acid (hydrochloric? muriatic? I can't remember... ) Because it attacks the base metal as well as the rust, it ends up leaving the teeth with a sharper profile.
I was thinking the same thing. I've got some barbell weight plates, I think I'd put them in a bucket with hydrochloric acid. The only thing I'm worried about is the acid is a corrosive. Therefore they'd rust up again within minutes.
@@markopolo3435: So we have a vicious cycle : ) I think if we can go immediately from acid to a water-rinse, then blow dry with compressed air, you would have only the faintest trace of rust... just a little orange color, but nothing like crusty scale. I have a few rusty files (decades-old American-made), guess I need to try it. Of course, with something like weights, the best option would be to sandblast... something I'll be prepping to do tomorrow, in fact. But that just won't work on files : ) Another option: Check out "AGS RUST SOLUTIONS Rust Paint" on Amazon... I'll probably be trying that on my truck frame, etc.
@@markopolo3435: And here you go; I've found people using sulphuric and muriatic (one guy says "muriatic acid is a 40% concentrate of hydrochloric acid") ua-cam.com/video/eoI_P_YVhkI/v-deo.html
@@lordofthewoods i just did the job, like you described it. I used warm water with washing detergent instead plain water. Minor wire brushing with the acid. Job looks great. Planing on painting tomorrow, I'll keep you posted on how it goes.
It would be interesting to know the ratio, as seen it's "a bit more than half a cup with some water". There are still some acid grains in the corners. Important to mention to keep the acid solution warm. Why use baking soda? A bit more explanation would have been useful. But - thanks for posting, thumbs up!
WD-40 ...Dries any residual water on the surface and joint of the handle...For long term rust prevention WD-40 ineffective.. I use PB BLASTER...Others on here suggest wiping with motor oil. Your preference.preference.
Zep Acidic Toilet Bowl Cleaner quickly removes rust. Its powerful 10 percent Hydrochloric Acid gel formula enables the cleaner to dissolve the heaviest rust buildup. The thick gel clings to vertical surfaces. I am a Machinist with over 30 years experience and I am super picky, trust me buy a gallon of this for about $13 and you will never use anything else for removing rust again.
@@douglaslopshire699 and how much baking soda with how much water. And what was that spray. What did you use to prevent it from re- rusting? Too many unanswered questions.
Best thing to do, is to keep it for the next time you need it. That not being the case you can neutralize it with baking soda or pretty much anything alkaline. Concrete powder comes to mind as another cheap and easy solution. Better yet is to use it on a hot and dry day to kill weeds. It's extremely effective. Do it on a rainy/moist day and the weeds will laugh at you. LOL 😂
Rub it with cut lemon & soda for 2 minutes. Can use some sandpaper if you wish. Add few drops of wd40 into the jnt. Clean with cloth & will shine bttr. All 5 minutes.
You need to know the concentration of the acid... squeezing lemons could be for the brass pieces of the stove... and I tried and it's not enough really.
Iat one time I used can chemicals which worked well but at a hefty price. 5lbs of citric acid arrived today at a cost of less than $15. I use it to clean most every thing
@@seanwhitman799 one additional tidbit. My wife delegated me to chief shower washer some time ago. Since then I've spent countless $ trying to control soap scum. Turns out all my efforts to find that perfect cleaner were in vain. At least until I found out I could take a left over foam type squirt bottle filled with whit vinegar and clean just about anything. Citric acid is the major component in most cleaners like Purple Power, vroom and several others. Like wise vinegar can be used in low of products like lime away, CLR and similar products. Good luck.
Lol i got a cool chopper gas tank from the junkyard it was pretty thick and i put vinegar in it to soak ended up leaving it there for a week or so went back to check on it and it had eat huge holes in it to crud. 😢
@@rebeccaofsunnybrookefarm8469 Directly from the description - that you apparently did not read: "In this video I will show how to quickly clean the tool from rust at home! *Without chemical* additives! "
@@ABaumstumpf clearly there is a difference between harsh chemicals and chemicals... vinegar is a chemical as is citric acid. Please excuse your rudeness.. clearly I'm differently educated.
@@rebeccaofsunnybrookefarm8469 "clearly there is a difference between harsh chemicals and chemicals" Well yes, but that is not what he said in the description - sooooo.... "clearly I'm differently educated." i sadly can only agree as you clearly did not read/comprehend even just 2 sentences.
Great video! I am going to purchase citric acid crystals soon! An ultrasound bath would speed up things. May I inquire viewers here what is the best way to prevent (maybe impossible!) or drastically slow down rust formation? Thanks in anticipation
![[柴犬ASMR]曼玉Manyu&小白Bai 毛发护理Spa asmr](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/0TsXQ7z2Dh4/mqdefault.jpg)
It actually will work better if the citric acid water is HOT. Also, don't empty the acid out to neutralize it with baking soda. Slowly add in the baking soda and keep stirring. Once the pH is raised up to around 9 or 10 you will see the finish of the iron turn to black. This is some of the iron in the acid solution re-depositing back onto the iron as magnetite. You can read about this process used in the cleaning of thousands of ton boilers. It is called Citrisolve. Used it by the tanker load all over the world. Common method for cleaning newly constructed steam boilers for making power.
So if you do the way you described does it remove the rust And then coat with a thin layer of magnatite that bonds to it and prevents rust without having to paint it? Also will that work if I use vinegar instead of citric acid and then neutralize it with the baking soda as you said going beyond neutral ph7 to ph9? How long in ph9? Then what, just rinse in water and you're done?
@@user-tf8mi3nt6j Yes, you can use vinegar instead of citric acid. And you can also use regular RealLemon juice to supply the citric acid. RealLemon is around 4 % citric acid. And when you neutralize it with the baking soda, you will need to go a little slowly as it is going to foam and fizz a little bit. As I said warm is better than room temperature, but not so hot you cannot touch it. Allow the baking soda to dissolve and sit for a couple of hours with a little stirring occasionally.
Once the black iron magnetite is formed, you can simply reach in and remove the tool, throw out the solution and just rinse in normal water from the tap. Dry it and apply a light oil to prevent rust back For tools that you want to have that burnished look and still show their age but without that red / orange rust color you can also do a bit of extra iron to assist in forming that layer. Just clean a small piece of steel wool with paint thinner and dry the steel wool well. Put it in the bowl with the tool you are working on. When at the final stage with the baking soda, take the steel wool and rub the finish together with the tool gently to assist in transferring the magnetite to the tool. Then after the tool is rinsed, dried, and oiled take the steel wool, add oil, and gently burnish the tool surfaces.
Keep up the work on saving these old tools. I find them much better quality than you can get new.
@@lpconserv6074 Thanks for your time and advice 👍
Thank you, your suggestion worked really well on an old lock.
Thanks for sharing, great video, respect for old tools 👍
Excellent instructional video. Thanks for uploading
Others posted this as well. Just use apple cider vinegar, then do the baking soda bath to neutralize the action of the vinegar. Then l spray the entire to with WD-40. Brought many rusted yard sale and flea market tools back to life!!
I believe that some individuals in the comments column are really missing the point here.
It's not about the plyers... it's about how to remove rust off from rusted objects or surfaces.
pro trick : you can watch movies at Flixzone. I've been using it for watching all kinds of movies during the lockdown.
@Kenneth Dexter definitely, been watching on Flixzone for since november myself :)
Thanks! Very helpful!
Nice trick. Thanks!
Great vid 👍 Worth trying this first to remove rust. If no good, one can then try with a more expensive non-organic acid product like phosphoric or hydrochloric.
pb blaster and elbow grease with a wire brush and drill. even better.
@@Ziggy_Wolf and don’t forget vinegar method
Wow!!!great idea
Hola...que tal...buen video...acido citrico....gran idea..voy a probar si sirve....
NEW SUB. Wow!!! It’s a miracle!
Wawww se jeant thanke you very match goode job 👍👍👍👍👍👏👏👏👏💪💪
This technique worked on my mother-in-law bronchial tubes.
@K Maxx lol
Are you still alive?😂🤣😂😂
Did it work on your mother-in-law ?
Had a really rusty garden pruner...accidentally left out in rain...overnight in white vinegar and it looks like new.
Me and my friends get it all bloody every time, It rusts and It was my favorite axe but this vid helped me. thanks
We used to stab the rusty/stiff pliers etc in sand a few times and then spray some oil. Done in seconds.....
I've seen local dollar stores that carry lineman's pliers. I'd also follow up with penetrating oil (NOT WD-40) to soak into the small crevices to help loosen any hidden internal rust.
@@YouFellForTheBait WD-40 is neither a true lubricant nor a penetrating oil. It's kerosene-based and more of a cleaner and rust-inhibitor. I use WD-40 on my electric hedge clipper blades to lightly lubricate and inhibit rust. It also works great for keyed lock cylinders although purists may suggest powdered graphite for that purpose. Thank you.
This was really helpful! My dickhead friend left a bunch of my tools outside and I found them about a month later in the dirt in the same condition, but this cleaned them right up. I think it'll also work for cleaning some electrical contacts on my motorhome.
I must admit that I'm a dickhead, but I'm not that dickhead.
For electrical contacts better use WD-40 and a brass brush, clean the contacts gently 😉
Find new freinds. Lol
Hey is that water in it or vinegar that is to be added after citric acid
@@richardcraniumdicksinn3959 well it's not your fault completely he should of ask for em sooner
Love the sound track!
interesting thank you
Good restoration interesting and nice even though we are far away but we can still connect and greet each other thanks my friend
WoW 👏👏👍
Citric acid diluted with water is also great for cleaning rifle brass shells before reloading. Gets all the crap out. Just don't use a strong solution and be sure to get them dry.
I do the same thing with vinegar. then baking soda and water bath, then heat gun it dry, then dunk the whole piece in Marvels Mystery oil. Then a cloth wipe down to dry. That handle will move like BUTTAH after.
Canola oil its food safe non stick non toxic and has high heat resistance and its cheaper than mm i heard its a popular alternative to bar and chain oil on chainsaws i tried it seems to work great 👍 only canola not vegetable or olive do not mix in gas only for chain lube.
Love the music. Who is it? The pliers....well I knew they would look good.
nice vid I learned something. Thanks.
Impressive.
Hmmmm!! Feels like a real magical
It's all about the tools man!
Lots of tools on UA-cam ✌
Missed the target with the WD40 from point blank! Brahahaha! 🤣 Good vid though mate. 👍🇦🇺 🍻
Thanks
What about chlorydric accid? Is it worth it?
Kool-Aid Lemonade packs are the same thing. Works great!
Interesting
My precious
i always use oxalic acid, that stuff is cheap and works great. get the powder version.
Nice!!!
What is the desired concentration of the acid in the water? Or do you just eyeball it, like a lot of us? Thanks for the video.
P.S. For anyone looking for something that may be a little stronger, instead of using grocery store vinegar (typically a 5% solution), try getting a gallon or more of 30% vinegar, you should use this outside with gloves and safety glasses, but it works faster, but is not as strong or dangerous as muriatic acid.
In my experience (and I just did this earlier today), start with a mix of vinegar and salt, it works much faster. But all the more reason to neutralize the reaction with baking soda...
The vinegar/salt reaction might only take a few hours or so, but you absolutely have to neutralize it with baking soda.
During the reactions, occasionally brush the metals off of course. But afterwards, make sure to neutralize as stated.
Then use anything except WD-40, that's not considered a proper long term oil. I use 3-in-1 oil as an initial preservative oil.
Muriatuc acid works amazing too
Appears to work well on removing rust, in a timely fashion but it does impact the patina of the metal, however most possess do.
This worked pretty good maybe Ill give it a try. I have been using electrolysis with excellent results. After cleanup I wipe down all surfaces with 3in1 oil.....if you do not it will flash rust.....then you are back at square one.
Alco Power Don't you have to bake them afterwards at 400 deg. for a couple of hours. I've heard that this process infuses hydrogen which makes the metal weak.
@@tenkill .......I have not heard this or done this. Have not had any issues in regards to breakage or metal fatigue.
@@alcopower5710 thanks!
I've had like results using apple cider vinegar but allow it to soak for a day or so.
Yeah any acidic substance will do, the more acid the quicker it'll be. It's not rocket science.
👍
Kind of digging the trippy soundtrack, especially when he started brushing the pliers in time with keyboards !
Made me horny!
@@Blacktop_Rabinowitz ayooooooooo😳😳😳😳😳😳
"How to remove rust without chemical additives: Step one, Citric Acid"
citric acid is found in oranges, limes, lemons, etc.
@@YR7A ok
😁 funny... anyways, everything is "chemical" 😉
Mi cuenta para foros y cosas THANK YOU!! omfg
@@micuentaparaforosycosas3484 unless it's a laser, but I don't think anybody's shelling out for photon-based rust removal for a pair of Kleins
Is citric acid either vinger or water?
Heard years ago about a method for simultaneously de-rusting and SHARPENING rusty files via treatment with an aggressive acid (hydrochloric? muriatic? I can't remember... ) Because it attacks the base metal as well as the rust, it ends up leaving the teeth with a sharper profile.
I was thinking the same thing. I've got some barbell weight plates, I think I'd put them in a bucket with hydrochloric acid. The only thing I'm worried about is the acid is a corrosive. Therefore they'd rust up again within minutes.
@@markopolo3435: So we have a vicious cycle : )
I think if we can go immediately from acid to a water-rinse, then blow dry with compressed air, you would have only the faintest trace of rust... just a little orange color, but nothing like crusty scale. I have a few rusty files (decades-old American-made), guess I need to try it.
Of course, with something like weights, the best option would be to sandblast... something I'll be prepping to do tomorrow, in fact. But that just won't work on files : )
Another option: Check out "AGS RUST SOLUTIONS Rust Paint" on Amazon... I'll probably be trying that on my truck frame, etc.
@@markopolo3435: And here you go; I've found people using sulphuric and muriatic (one guy says "muriatic acid is a 40% concentrate of hydrochloric acid")
ua-cam.com/video/eoI_P_YVhkI/v-deo.html
@@lordofthewoods i just did the job, like you described it. I used warm water with washing detergent instead plain water. Minor wire brushing with the acid. Job looks great. Planing on painting tomorrow, I'll keep you posted on how it goes.
@@markopolo3435: Alright!
Though you may want to weigh and re-mark the weights : )
👌🏿 THANKS and the Music is GOOD TOO ... going over to amazon to order citric acid RIGHT NOW ( if they sell it )
👌
Porter greetings.🇺🇸 Good job. The pliers sure were in BAD shape to start with! 🧐
Neat trick! You taught an old man who know most all the hacks a new one! Thanks!
Vinegar, baking soda, etc.
Where do you get the citric acid? hot or cold water ???
Is warm/hot water preferred over cold/cool tap water? I would imagine heated water would help dissolve rust faster and more efficiently.
Yes, the crystals don't dissolve in cold water
Is that why the tip of the handle is broken of so that it fits in the tube ?
have you tried white vinegar ?
It would be interesting to know the ratio, as seen it's "a bit more than half a cup with some water". There are still some acid grains in the corners. Important to mention to keep the acid solution warm. Why use baking soda? A bit more explanation would have been useful.
But - thanks for posting, thumbs up!
To neutralize the acid
LIKE...👍👍👍
Old Oranges & Lemons will do too. Note : everything is a chemical or acid/alkaline including ourselves.
Great song 👌
Got it done & cheaply.
WD-40 ...Dries any residual water on the surface and joint of the handle...For long term rust prevention WD-40 ineffective.. I use PB BLASTER...Others on here suggest wiping with motor oil. Your preference.preference.
Steel wool
Zep Acidic Toilet Bowl Cleaner quickly removes rust. Its powerful 10 percent Hydrochloric Acid gel formula enables the cleaner to dissolve the heaviest rust buildup. The thick gel clings to vertical surfaces. I am a Machinist with over 30 years experience and I am super picky, trust me buy a gallon of this for about $13 and you will never use anything else for removing rust again.
good job ! How did you dispose of the citric acid ?
That will be in a follow up video (20 minutes long) showing how to pour it out of the pan in the grass.
What was the solution ratio? How much citric acid? How much water?
@@douglaslopshire699 and how much baking soda with how much water. And what was that spray. What did you use to prevent it from re- rusting? Too many unanswered questions.
Best thing to do, is to keep it for the next time you need it. That not being the case you can neutralize it with baking soda or pretty much anything alkaline. Concrete powder comes to mind as another cheap and easy solution.
Better yet is to use it on a hot and dry day to kill weeds. It's extremely effective. Do it on a rainy/moist day and the weeds will laugh at you. LOL 😂
Anywhere..... it's not radioactive plutonium, numbnuts.
ok so what was the liquid ? Vinegar ? Water ? Acid ? Paint remover ?
luv the tune did you write and record it .I would love to put a drum track to it.....
Vinegar works too.
Nice. Now paint it with flat olive drab
Actually this is right because it's very natural 🙂
Süper.birdeney
Two gloves recommended
I heard coca cola will do this too
Guaranteed those cutters won't ever be the same
Rub it with cut lemon & soda for 2 minutes. Can use some sandpaper if you wish. Add few drops of wd40 into the jnt. Clean with cloth & will shine bttr. All 5 minutes.
Hmm, and what was the purpose for putting on the glove again?
😂🤣 are u trying to kill the guy ??
@@princevinny0073 With what exactly, dumbass.
@@Zgmflegend
🙂😊 is rusty tools probly bad that the rust get on ur hands maby they can go inside ur nails 😥
Hmmm. Maybe he has some cuts on his left hand?…Maybe?
@@richardsilva-spokane3436 So it will sting for 10 sec. People think this is plutonium or something....
Can we use squeezed lemon instead of citric acid
And did u add water after that???
You need to know the concentration of the acid... squeezing lemons could be for the brass pieces of the stove... and I tried and it's not enough really.
Is that water hot or cool
@@ronaldemel530 since chemical reactions are accelerated by heat it would be a good idea to use hot water even if he didn't.
Can do the same with household vinegar...
Will white vinegar do the same?
i watch another person do that.. Yes .. Vinegar + salt ..but they keep in the solution for 5 days, it clean pretty well
Iat one time I used can chemicals which worked well but at a hefty price. 5lbs of citric acid arrived today at a cost of less than $15. I use it to clean most every thing
Thanks for the info. That's very inexpensive compared to top name brand chemicals.
@@seanwhitman799 one additional tidbit. My wife delegated me to chief shower washer some time ago. Since then I've spent countless $ trying to control soap scum. Turns out all my efforts to find that perfect cleaner were in vain. At least until I found out I could take a left over foam type squirt bottle filled with whit vinegar and clean just about anything. Citric acid is the major component in most cleaners like Purple Power, vroom and several others. Like wise vinegar can be used in low of products like lime away, CLR and similar products. Good luck.
Can you reuse the vinegar for more rust removal?
not expensive...try it
What is the liquid?
Is it cold water you applied with the citric acid?
No, it needs to be hot to dissolve the crystals
Lol i got a cool chopper gas tank from the junkyard it was pretty thick and i put vinegar in it to soak ended up leaving it there for a week or so went back to check on it and it had eat huge holes in it to crud. 😢
Yeah I don't have crystallized citric acid in my pantry, but would lemon juice work?
It would 👍
try boiling the parts for an hour to turn the oxide black, buff it off, and put penetrating oil in any hinges
@@AlanGriffith thats a blueing process
Is one to assume that the clear liquid is water, or is it white vinegar ???
I have a right handed rubber glove up on ebay.
Final polish?
Can i use this on engine internals
Yeah won't affect it.
I fixed my rusty motorcycle tank using a 10% citric acid solution, hot water, 24 hours. Didn't do any harm to the paint, aluminum or rubber seals.
Was the water boiling or just from a kettle?
@Paul Vasso Thanks.
Harpic x10 bogg cleaner...
Use the same solution but put it in a ZipLoc bag and submerge it in an ultrasonic cleaner.
It also worked for me with cola
I'd just but a new pair they're cheep enough but I get the point!
A GOOD pair of these is $50; if these are $8 Chinese, then your point is well taken
Since when has citric acid NOT been a chemical?
That is relevant how?
The title says remove rust in 2 hr time lapse... nothing about chemical less.
@@rebeccaofsunnybrookefarm8469 Directly from the description - that you apparently did not read:
"In this video I will show how to quickly clean the tool from rust at home! *Without chemical* additives! "
@@ABaumstumpf clearly there is a difference between harsh chemicals and chemicals... vinegar is a chemical as is citric acid.
Please excuse your rudeness.. clearly I'm differently educated.
@@rebeccaofsunnybrookefarm8469 "clearly there is a difference between harsh chemicals and chemicals"
Well yes, but that is not what he said in the description - sooooo.... "clearly I'm differently educated." i sadly can only agree as you clearly did not read/comprehend even just 2 sentences.
That some orange juice in the beginning.
Wow! So much views!👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Cool Restorations
Can you grow part of the handle back too?
Great video! I am going to purchase citric acid crystals soon! An ultrasound bath would speed up things. May I inquire viewers here what is the best way to prevent (maybe impossible!) or drastically slow down rust formation? Thanks in anticipation
Did he notice one handle was broken before he started?
I didn't until it was in the container