Tanking a shower area
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- Опубліковано 29 січ 2025
- Tanking a shower area is always a good idea as water eventually gets behind tiles causing the plasterboard to perish. Here we show hoe to tank a shower area using a tanking kit. For more information about tiling please see our tiling section- www.ultimatehan...
Many thanks for taking the time to reply, people like you are few and far between and make the world a better place.
Hi. I've just watched you video which I found very informative but I'll appreciate answers to a couple of questions. So in tanking the area behind/under the shower which is basically covering the area with plastic to stop water damaging wall and floor. What happens to the water that gets between the shower unit and the tanking. Is the purpose of thanking for leaks or condensation or both. The main reason I'm asking is because I want to fit a shower upstairs on a wooden floor.
I'm in the middle of building an ensuite and couldn't decide whether to tile or use the aqua panels. But after watching this I've decided to go with tiles and use a tanking kit. Great video.
Thanks for the comment 👍
Really interesting to see how different things are done in the UK and United States. Tiling directly on plaster or dry wall is a big no no, membrane and all. We would either float a mortar wall or use a cement board with a membrane system.
Thanks for the video
Great video(s), thank you.
I have a query about the screw fixings. If joins and other breaks in the plasterboard (outlet pipes) require jointing tape, how come the fixings don't get a circle of tape or cap over them? I get the need to cover joins with tape in case of movement. But the board can't move where it's held in place around the outlet pipes surely? I'm not knocking doing that either. I just thought going to so much trouble, doing such a good job, why not tape over the screw head too?
Great video and very well explained. I will now carry out this method on my ensuite project , i wasnt going to tank the area as my understanding is Ceramic tiling with correct tiles when used on a sound substrate with E-poxy grout and adhesive is impervious to Hydrostatic pressure and totally waterproof. As im in the industry of below ground level waterproofing of basements and a CSSW surveyor i was little care free . Tanking methods are designed to withstand water under pressure (hydrostatic) against earth retaining walls to prevent physical water ingress. Water running down tiles within a shower enclosure should not require Tanking. However i can understand how weaknesses in corners and grout lines could lead to water penetration through to the substrate.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Thanks UHM, Yes I've been to a local supplier and they look to be a great product. I think as an extra precaution I will use your method of tanking and then put a bead of sealant down the joins of the cladding just to make sure that no water gets behind the cladding or into the plaster board. Thanks for your help mate.
Another excellent how-to, will recommend your site to my customers, easier for them to follow than explaining it all in the shop
Great video...If your wall was a brick wall with no plaster board which had been plastered would you recommend doing this.... I'm guessing yes right?
Yes, as long as the plaster is completely dry before you apply the tanking kit (as you don't want to seal in any moisture)
Ultimate Handyman thanks
Thank you very much for the quick reply, I understand what you'er saying and agree. What do you think to using the plastic wall panel covering instead of tiling in showers as its quicker and waterproof.
good video, I take it if one has plastered walls then joining tape is not needed? Also can one just use the membrane liquid? thanks
Got a price from my tiler €1,100 plus €200 for tanking kit after seeing this I’ll do it myself 😊 thanks for the your informative info
👍
Have bought a flat with a showe cubicle with mosaic tiles showing water damage in one specific area. Can I use this method to take off the tiles in that area and tank & patch it. Or am I up for stripping the entire cubicle and starting again?
hello mate can this be used on plastered walls .also whats the prefered adhesive .is it ok to use the ready made tubbed stuff cheers alan
Hello, I'm thinking on putting tile my bathroom too but my bathtub wall has an acrylic wall do I have to do the same procedure you did here and do I have to remove my tub please need help
hello mate whats you opinion on tiling on hardwall gypsum plaster .i have a small section that needs to be tiled my plasterer says its ok just wanted a second opinion from a tiler .i was going to use the tanking system on it as well cheers alan
Does it have to be primed over before tiling after brushing on membrane
Apart from the squeakiness it was good to see someone calmly demonstrating what to do and not loudly talking rubbish non stop. Good stuff
+tom alexander
That hop up is a real pain for squeaking!
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Hilarious stuff!
@ 2.47 mins in, I thought he had put some banging music on the video to help us all watch paint drying. ..... turns out to be the creaking of his aluminium (aluminum for our US colleagues) hop up bench. Great laugh 😂
No, you got me wrong, I have a PLASTERED masonry (brick) wall, so I'm wondering is this procedure necessary in my case since I don't have a plaster board which could get messed up by water penetrating through grout? Tnx.
Is this procedure necessary in showers without plasterboard structure, I have a classical plastered brick wall on which I plan to tile on directly?
Hi thanks for this very useful. I will be putting ina shower tray not a bath. Should I be concerned about water getting through?
If you are tiling the area, it is best to tank it first as water often gets through the grout eventually.
Thanks for the comment 👍
Great video. I'm going to have a go at my bathroom this summer so I'll let you know if it leaks!
Best of luck with it 👍
I have a bathroom / bedroom wall with an issue, from the bedroom side , on the bottom the wall was damp and skim had become soft to the extent that i could pull it out (bath on the other side by the way) , the plaster was also crumbling and soft and the skirt had dry rot too , iv removed the skim and got rid of all the skim and soft plaster, its a house i have just bought, do u think i have a slow leak under the bath, or just needs waterproofing with this tanking once plasterer plasters before the skim? Please advise steps clearly and what i need, i will truly appreciate all your advice, learnt alot from your video by the way thanku.
Hi UHM,
Great video! I'm thinking of using your method, but instead of using tiles, I would use plastic cladding panels to form a waterproof surround for a corner shower cubical. Have you any thoughts or advice on using cladding panels on a tanked dry wall surface. Many thanks, always very glad of your advice mate.
Would you use this with plastered walls?
I've got to hack off existing tiles and retile my bathroom soon. I assume the tiles have were just adhered to the wall.
Hi,
"Great videos" great help.
I'm in the process of installing a wetroom soon.
My question is should i use normal platerboards or moisture ressistant plasterboards if i use tanking to seal the plasterboards?
Both walls are new stud walls, should i be concerned the moisture reaching the plasterboards over time.
Thanks.
+M Asghar
If you are tanking the shower area I would recommend using moisture resistant plasterboard, it is not much more expensive than normal plasterboard but is somewhat moisture resistant. It's a lot cheaper than tile backer board, which is cement based.
Heya, Will be tackling this next.
Moisture Resistant Boards in 'wet' areas and ceiling that is close to shower and regular board else where + a tanking kit.
...hope that is right for a fully tiled small bathroom.
Great vid. What about the the screwheads in the plasterboard. How are they sealed??
They are sealed with the tanking solution that is painted on.
Thanks for the comment
Excellent tutorial thanks. I assume the tanking procedure is an alternative to the cement-based waterproof panels (e.g. aquaboard or hardiboard) attached to a timber stud frame without needing plasterboard. Perhaps you could tank these panels as well? (Belt and braces!).
Thanks, yes that is correct. Normally people do not tank cement based backer boards.
You probably could tank them but from what I have been told it is not necessary.
Thanks for the comment
Can I tank on GTEC SINIAT VAPOUR BOARD plasterboard instead of green plasterboard? I went on guidance from a phone call with building standards, but now think I should have gone with first instincts and has the green stuff delivered.
Having done the job badly, tiling throughout without doing this, I am getting leaks in kitchen below bathroom. I have a power shower into the bath tub where I stand. Not sure what to do as I am reluctant to destroy the tiling. I am worried about silicone and grouting because eventually they give and I get leaks. Is there something you can recommend?
You rather did imply that, Spunkmeyer. Tile on cement board is a no no without a vapor barrier.
I'm using greenboard in my shower. Doesn't matter though, as it will be covered with Kerdi cloth.
I'm replacing the plasterboard in my bath/shower area as the old stuff wasn't tanked and was covered in black mould.
Does the new plasterboard need to go all the way to the floor (under the bath level) or just down to the rim of the bath?
If it does need to go all the way to the floor, does the area under the bath need tanked too?
Thanks.
I normally go all the way down, but stop short of the floor by a couple of inches. Yes, I normally tank the whole area before installing the bath.
Thanks for the comment 👍
For concrete tiling boards, before tanking, do you need to tape and apply a thin layer of mortar to joins? You have gone straight to tanking? Please advise.
If you mean cement based tile backer board- you do not need to tank those, you only need to tank plasterboard.
Thanks for the comment
I`m about to rip out my ensuite and put a new one in, your vids will be helping me achieve this...great channell
+sharpz44
I'm glad the videos help ;-)
Best of luck with the ensuite!
+Ultimate Handyman
If the water penetrates through the wall tile ... what?
if that happens then, then you aint done the job properly and need not tile again, any tanking will not stop it and the whole area will need to be rectified. tiles removed and subestrate repaired whether previously tanked or not and finally retiled and regrouted.
TANKING IS NOT REQUIRED extra expense and work for nothing.
Ultimate Handyman. What's the process of tanking walls which have been bonded?
I'm not sure if you can, it would be worth checking the instructions for a few popular brands to see if any are suitable for this.
can the tanking strips be brought onto the tray and then tiled over/ seal strip over ? I have a few mm of a gap between tray/wall that needs to be bridged and the strip wont bridge it properly ,,,thanks
I would not use that strip to seal it, would ones of these not work- ua-cam.com/video/tRweaE32_ks/v-deo.html
Excellent video. Detailed explanation and visuals. Thank you.
I’m glad you found the video useful
Thanks for the comment 👍
I've recently applied tanking to some moisture plasterboard in my bathroom, which are now ready to tiled with some large size tiles.
Only thing is I forgot to prime the plasterboard with pva before tanking. Do you think i should reboard, because potentially this could cause my tiles to fall off in the future?
The tanking paint seems pretty well stuck to the board and isn't peeling off easily.
Also could you advise if I should prime over the tanking with pva before tiling?
What did the instructions in the tanking kit say?
PVA should not be used as a tiling primer, unless specified by the tile adhesive manufacturers- www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/forum1/pva-why-you-shouldn-t-use-it-as-a-tiling-primer-t168.html
Normally, you just apply the tanking solution (two coats), then tile straight on top of it.
Thanks for the comment
Do you use plasterboard and what type or cement board covered in paper that you can cut, or cement board which you cut with a saw. Thanks for any help.
I used moisture resistant plasterboard, which was tanked in the wet area of the bathroom.
Cement based boards are more expensive and more difficult to work with, and normally more expensive.
Thanks for the comment 👍
Awesome videos- how do you affix the shower rail to the shower wall without breaching the tanking? Thanks.
+Ridelimousin Thanks. I'm afraid you have to breach the tanking to get a good fixing. I'm sure I placed a piece of 3*2 timber behind the tiles on the wall for the riser to fix to. I then drilled through the tiles and used stainless steel screws, but covered them with plumbers gold/clear silicone.Thanks for the comment
+Ultimate Handyman OK will do it this way, doesn't this sort of defeat the point a little though :s
+Ridelimousin
No, the tanking is to prevent water that soaks through the grout damaging the substrate. As long as you put some silicone on the screw going though the tiles no water can get in to cause any damage ;-)
Thanks for the comment
+Ultimate Handyman OK thanks just checking! You sure it cant track along the bolt ;-)
+Ridelimousin
As long as you use a rust proof screw and apply silicone to it when you are screwing it in you should not have any problems ;-)
Hi Ultimate Handyman, excellent video thanks. We have just applied the primer and we’re going to tape/tank next few days. Question, we haven’t yet plastered the ceiling - should we plaster before tanking? I’m worried there will be a problem where the ceiling and wall meet? Please can you advise? Thanks
I don't think that will be a problem, as it's unlikely that water will ever hit the ceiling during showering.
As long as you leave the plaster on the ceiling to dry out fully before painting it, and you use a paint that is suitable for use in a bathroom you should not have any problems ;-)
Thanks for the comment
Thanks for this video. Very useful. Can I wait a few days after I put the primer, before I move to the following steps? Or do I have to move quickly as soon as the primer has set?
Just check the instructions to be sure. I think you can leave it a couple of days, but best to check the instructions ( I can't remember, as this was done 10 years ago)
Thanks for the comment 👍
I wonder if they do this in the timber frame throw ups that spring up in days.
We have had to strip back to brick on one side of the shower area. So do we plaster the uneven wall then put on waterproof plasterboard then tank or can we plaster and tank after skimming plaster?
Plaster is not the best material to tile onto.
I used plasterboard fixing foam to stick up waterproof plasterboard ua-cam.com/video/3CJygvnajUA/v-deo.html
(You will need to add some mechanical fixings as well if you use this method)
Than tanked it and then tiled it.
***** Thanks. Sorry , but do you mean when you say mechanical fixing that we need to screw the plaster board to the brick?
helensmile63
Yes, but fix it to the wall using the dry fix foam first. Then add about 5 mechanical fixings to the plasterboard, such as wall plugs and large screws, You can get some special fixings for this purpose but they don't work too well in brick.
If you're using Epoxy Grout which is waterproof do you still need to tank the walls ?
If it's a domestic bathroom, you might get away with not tanking the walls, but I would definitely use moisture-resistant plasterboard, as it is not much more expensive than normal plasterboard.
Thanks for the comment 👍
No plasterboard but a solid masonry concrete wall I thinking bonding on top. The tiler has tanked the floor and 8 inches at the bottom of the wall. Would that be ok
Hi Handyman, greatest video and I’ve done exactly as you have demonstrated in this video. However after tiling the adhesive seems to be taking a long time to dry. Is that normal and how long should I wait before grouting or is there a way of telling when the adhesive is fully dry. I’m using shower proof adhesive that I bought from screwfix
It should say on the instructions, however most grout is permeable and so the adhesive should still cure after grouting. I try to leave it a couple of days.
Thanks for the comment
Hi. Do you still need to tank the shower area if you use a moisture resistant plaster board and using a water Resistant tile adhesive and grout. Thanks
Yes, from my understanding you still need to tank moisture resistant plasterboard in the shower area.
Thanks for the comment
A) once tanking has been applied and dried, do you need to apply tile primer on top of the tanking before tiling?
2) when tanking on top of plaster that is very porous, could you apply tile primer first, let the plaster suck all that in, then apply the tanking primer and membrane?
Do plastered walls need tanking and should water resistant plaster board be used even when plastering before tiling around a shower bath?
+ConicalRamirez
You can tank over plaster- but the plaster must be completely dry. You would have to check the instructions on the tub to see exactly what they recommend. Normally you can download a pdf file with the details before you purchase a tanking kit.
Hi mate, very informative as usual. I'll be tiling my bathroom in a 4 weeks time. Is it OK to put gyproc MR plasterboard up now on a wall opposite the bath and shower, and continue to use the bathroom in the meantime, and do the tanking and tiling later? Or is it better to put the plasterboard up just before tiling begins? Many thanks in advance.
Good video - how would you recommend the best seal if needing to sink the bath lip into the plasterboard?
Not sure, as I have never done that before. Tanking it should work, as long as the plasterboard is sealed properly where you sink into it.
I don't understand. How do you make the holes where the pipes in the wall go through water tight?
What’s the minimum time to wait between the first and the second coat, can they both be applied within the same day
It might vary depending on whch kit you use.
It's best to check the instructions for the kit that you are using ;-)
Great video. I’m installing a shower tray and the shower screen needs to be secured by drilling in the the tanked area. How do I keep this waterproof? I was thinking silicone in the holes but is there a ‘proper’ way? Cheers
When I installed my shower screen I drilled the holes and put some clear silicone in them before inserting the wall plugs ;-)
Thanks for the comment
Hi when tanking Hardie backer boards do you seal the joints between the boards with the aquaseal adhesive tape on top of the the alkaline tape/adhesive joints when you first install the boards?
Also can you install a shower tray on top of Hardie backer boards?
This should answer most of your questions- www.jameshardie.co.uk/import/Documents/HardieBacker%20Installation%20Guide.pdf
Hi is it ok to apply tanking to a newly plastered shower wall , enjoyed the video
+Peter Williamson
Yes, but you have to ensure the plaster is fully dry.
It's best to check the instructions for the tanking kit that you are going to use as some of them say you have to leave it a long time before you can tank the area.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Very well explained and demonstrated. You were using moisture board. Would you do the same with Aquapanel cement based backing board... I guess yes as there are still joints. I'm just wondering if I'm going to apply the same tanking, why bother using Aquapanel if you can use Moisture panel? Thoughts?
I think that you only need to tank Aquapanel if it is being used in a really wet area, such as a shower in a public building or a wet room.
Thanks for the comment
I have to take of tiles on OSB board on plasterboard and so have to make good with 25mm of something, im not keen on the idea of this tanking just because you have to come back twice, bit of a faf. Normal plasterboard behind cement board be alright do you think ? I think the size of the tile is important. Big tiles = less grout = will last longer without maintenance
Do i need to use the moisture resistant board in a room that will be tiled from floor to ceiling if its going to be tanked too? Or will soundbloc be acceptable too for plasterboard?
I would use the moisture resistant plasterboard on the walls in the shower area, then tank over the shower area. For other areas, you can use any plasterboard that you like 👍
@@ultimatehandyman as an alternative to tanking I see elements make a waterproof tile backer board that's designed to go over the plasterboard in a shower area. Is that a stronger solution than tanking the shower area?
and for the other areas - i.e bath, toilet etc, you wouldn't bother tanking/ tile backer boarding those?
@@martinpalmer3575 I'm not familiar with the "elements" solution sorry.
You can get cement based tile backer boards, which don't need tanking, but they are more difficult to work with and often contain silica, so care has to be taken when cutting or drilling them.
You only need tanking or tile backer board in wet areas. For other areas in the bathroom, I would just use moisture resistant plasterboard- even then, you could probably just use normal plasterboard, but for the price difference I'd use the moisture resistant stuff.
@@ultimatehandyman thanks, the room will have a sunken bath and a penta corner shower cubicle. If I understand you right then really it's just those areas that need tanking/waterproof boarding? and the rest of the room's walls (which will also be tiled floor to ceiling) we can just tile directly onto the plasterboard without tanking it?
@@martinpalmer3575 Yes, you only need to tank the wet areas (shower/bath etc.)
Hi mate ! love the channel. would you still recommend using this method of waterproofing a bathroom today or would you change some things .
Yes, I would still do it this way in any wet areas of the bathroom.
Thanks for the comment
I'm about to start hanging drywall in my home, I'm thinking about using cementboard instead of greenboard in the shower area. Do you have anything for or against it? I'm using metal studs, and I want to have 4 niches in it (everything tiled).
I think cutting and making holes for fixtures would be a pain in cement board, so I don't know if it is worth all that trouble if the greenboard with a good tanking works.
+Luiz Borges Gomide
Personally I don't like cement based boards as they contain silica. If we work in areas that use silica at work we have to have lung scans because it is hazardous to health so great caution has to be taken when cutting or drilling it.
As long as you tank it correctly the moisture resistant plasterboard should be fine. It is much easier to work with than the cement based boards.
+mrwizarduk
Absolutely, I think from a safety and ease of use point of view the best option is plasterboard (preferably water resistant) and tanking.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Hi, great video, this will be me at the weekend. In my tanking kit instructions it say 'fill any voids or holes with sealant' Most of my screw holes have been sunk (probably should have) am I best to fill every hole with sealant? If so would you recommend a certain type? Thanks!
+Joseph Loftus
Have the screw holes been sunk too deep?
If so then yes I would fill the holes before tanking.
I do not know which sealants are compatible with your tanking kit though, does it not specify which sealant to use?
If it does not you should be able to use any silicone sealant.
hey handyman, i love your channel bro + you always make me look like a pro in front of the family. a few questions though,
1) would using marine ply make for a better job rather than moisture resistant plasterboard and would you tank this in the same way?
2) is a primer still required after tanking and before adhesive?
i really want to say thank you for all the info you supply in your vids, its invaluable and really makes a difference to my life. your a great teacher, keep up the brilliant work.
kas
Hi Kas, I'm glad the videos help ;-)
1) No, plywood is not recommended apart from floors due to expansion and contraction. Tile backer board is best, if you use that you do not need to tank.
If you use plasterboard (even moisture resistant plasterboard- which I'd use in a shower area) it needs tanking.
2) No, you can tile directly onto the tanking ;-)
brilliant, thanks for taking the time to reply, enjoy the rest of your evening my friend and thanks again!
kas
You are welcome.
Thanks for the comments ;-)
Hi there. Excellent video. Would you recommend a tilebacker board over an MR board with tanking?
I'd go for the MR plasterboard and then tank it. Tile backer board is more difficult to work with and contains silica so you need to be careful when cutting or drilling it and is normally more expensive.
What about the screws your supposed to tape them too
I don't recall it saying that in the instructions.
Thanks for the comment
Hi, I watch all your videos I've learnt some great stuff, but on this occasion tape should be placed over the screw holes. Has I said love your video will always continue to watch.
Hi handyman. Can u use this stuff on aqua panels or hardibacker boards???? Also if the plasterboard are skimmed do u still need to tank it still.. cheers 😀
Yes, you can take Aqua panel or Hardibacker boards.
Yes skimmed plasterboard also needs tanking.
Thanks for the comment
Hi pal, just wanted to confirm,, can u tile directly onto hardibacker or aqua panels boards.. or is it best to TANK IT FIRST then tile onto the boards.
Cheers,
Moe..
You can tile directly onto Aqua panel or Hardibacker. I would only use a tanking kit on plasterboard.
That's for the reply,,,sorry to go on the same question again. , if u wanted to for a piece of mind. Can u put the tanking on the hardibacker or the aqua panels boards, or I'm I just going overboard 😅
Yes, you can tank over the tile backer boards, but I was told that it is not necessary as the boards are waterproof, which is why I only tank over plasterboard.
True.. it is more expensive. I bought a few sheets yesterday @ £10 each. The dust is harmful indeed but then again.. so is the dust from plaster board, especially so moisture resistant board. I guess at the end of the day it is a question of caveat emptor. Knowing the score definitely helps.
Have you ever used ardex wpc ? just got some for my bathroom , wondering if its any good before i start with it , cheers in advance.
+Daniel Ennis
No, I have never used that, but I would imagine it is very similar to the kit I used in this bathroom!
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Great video. Is it necessary to tank when using Nuance shower panels with a corner shower/tray arrangement?
I'm not 100% certain but I would guess that you don't need to, as the only reason tiled surfaces are tiled because the grout can go porous.
Thanks for the comment
David Thomas im going to tank mine to be on safe side. Only bit that it can get in is the corner where to panels meet and the bottom. For £45 you cant go wrong
Do you have to prime the membrane with something before putting on the tile adhesive? What adhesive would you use with that particular membrane?
Sebastian Lichoń
No, you can tile directly onto the tanked area using any tile adhesive that is suitable for the tiles that you are using. I normally just use standard ready mixed waterproof tile adhesive for walls.
Brill and very easy to understand, thank you fellow northerner.
You are welcome, I'm glad someone can understand my accent LOL
Thanks for the comment
would you need to tank a aqua panel or cement board?
No, you do not need to tank cement based boards
Great video! - I will have to re-board a stud wall in my bathroom so there would be x2 kinds of plasterboard, one for the shower area and then regular for the rest of the wall. So if I skimmed both can I tank over the plaster? Also you don't have to tank the floor do you?
I'd use moisture resistant plasterboard in the shower area.
I don't think you can tank on top of the plaster (you'll have to check the instructions with your tanking kit)
No, you only need to tank the floor if you are making a wet room (best left to a professional)
@@ultimatehandyman - Thanks for the reply, well that's good about the flooring. Well the only reason I wanted to tank on top of plaster is to keep the wall levels the same depth wise. I'll be using moisture resistant boards for sure in shower area.
Hi mate.. I can't tell you how much the bathroom episodes have been a God send so thank you mate... one question about the tanking, how long is ok to leave the walls after they have been tanked before tilling? I'm hopefully going to be tanking the walls this weekend and tiling next.
Cheers
I'm glad the videos have helped ;-)
That should not be a problem, the minimum drying time for the tanking kit is a day or so (if I remember rightly). There is no maximum period to leave the tanking before tiling.
Cheers buddy so I wouldn't need to rub the walls down with a sanding pad prior to tiling if left for a week?
Cheers mate
galva900
No, you should be able to just tile on top of it ;-)
Hello UHM, long time follower here. Many thanks for all your help over the years.
I am going to be refitting a standalone shower and put in a new tray as well as new fixtures etc. The tray will need to stand proud of the floor by about 10cm much the same as the original as I do not want to start drilling the joists and to make the job as easy as possible.
Should I tank all the way to the floorboards from the ceiling or should I fit the new tray (do the plumbing) and then tank from the ceiling to the new tray prior to tiling?
I'd just tank down to the shower tray, no water should get past it once it has been sealed, providing you fit it correctly.
The next time I install a shower I am going to use a bath sealing strip as they guarantee no water will get past the tray- ua-cam.com/video/tRweaE32_ks/v-deo.html
Thanks for the comment and best of luck with it ;-)
Thank you very much for your advice and link to that seal.
After tanking do you need to use a specific type of tile adhesive?
Any tile adhesive should be fine- just don't get the crappy tile adhesive and grout combined.
Thanks for the comment 👍
Hi, UH. Thank you for the great video! Our situation is like this: in our new bathroom we have ordinary plasterboard (in walk in shower as well) and tiles on "water-resistant" adhesive. No tanking. As I understand, it will leak one day. So, we need to redo the shower enclosure area with moisture resistant board and tanking. Right?
+Kateryna
It probably will leak one day, but I would not worry about it until it does, unless you are planning on changing the bathroom anyway?
I know of some new houses that were built and they used just plasterboard in the bathrooms and it did take about 10-15 years before they had problems.
Thanks for the comment
Hi I'm tiling an shower area that has been plasterboarded not plastered just painted on board will the primer work on that?
Not sure if you can tank over paint as it might not adhere correctly.
You would have to check the instructions of ask the manufacturers.
Hi, I have just used this product. I have just finished the first coat. The tanking membrane had lots of little lumps in it. Is this what you experienced ?
Yes, it did have lots of little lumps in it, I removed most of them before the tanking dried so that the surface was completely level for tiling.
***** Thanks. Great videos by the way.
jdcb1969
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Simply video and very informative no silly music or silly acting
Glad you liked it 👍
hi , I'm fitting a shower , one wall is already tilled ,two walls are new plasterboard , it would be a lot of work to take off the old tilles . can I tank over the existing tiles?, i want to tank all three sides the same
I don't think you can tank on top of tiles, but you could check with the manufacturer of the tanking kit.
Should you tank before plastering, after plastering, or does it matter?
+Ian Kelly
You need to check the instructions on the kit that you buy. Most tanking kits can only be used on plaster that has been left to dry for at least a month.
do u recommend this above any tanking kit ?? , ive heard ardex is good
I have used this one and it was easy to use and worked well, but I am sure that the Ardex one is good. I think most of the tanking manufacturers are respected manufacturers so you should not have a problem with any of them ;-)
Great thanks...
Hi Ultimate Handyman,
Clear and well explained video - thank you.
One question if I may, please. The boss (my wife) and I are creating a new shower room and we're having a 'bit of a domestic' over the need to do what you've advised here! I've built the stud wall and will shortly board it out using Knauf Aquapanel - as opposed to regular plasterboard. My wife thinks that to tank on top of this is overkill and all that's necessary is to fill the joints with a quality flexible waterproof sanitary sealant, after which we're good to tile. Obviously, doing what you advise is a 'belt 'n braces' approach - but is my wife's approach not perfectly adequate in your view? Her main objection to tanking is the additional expense (we're on a bit of a budget) - given that we've already forked out a small fortune for the Aquapanels.
You don't need to tank Aquapanels, as far as I am aware. You only need to tank plasterboard.
Please be careful when cutting/drilling the aquapanel as it contains silica sand.
Hi @@ultimatehandyman
Wow - thanks for such a quick reply - wasn't expecting that. Oh, and my wife's a happy bunny too! Cheers. ;-)
You are welcome ;-)
Hi there I’ve just bought the tanking I’ve bought normal bords will this be ok once tanked?
Yes, they will be fine ;-)
Ultimate Handyman aww thanks I just didn’t know if it worth exchanging then but if there will be ok that’s great
So if the shower area is now tanked, and the water is still going through grout, it will still run down the back and under the shower tray? Or do you lap it over the tray and membrane the edge of tray?
I'd use a sealing strip around the tray- ua-cam.com/video/tRweaE32_ks/v-deo.html
These are a really good idea ;-)
I know you are probably right - but if you think about it - the strip is sticky at the shower tray side, not the wall side. It just sits against the wall. Any water is bound to travel behind the tape and down in floor joists etc?
Hopefully this hasn't been covered already. I have heard conflicting responses to this question so hope you can settle this. I have put a new bath in my bathroom where a shower cubicle was and I'm keeping a shower on the wall over the bath. The bath and shower area have been boarded with gyproc (I think) moisture resistant plaster board. Now do I need to tank this board before tiling or not? I have read that PVA based solutions will just turn back into liquid form if in contact with water or moisture and therefore the tile adhesive will lose grip and the tiles will fall off the plasterboard? Is this true or can I just tile straight onto the moisture resistant plasterboard?
+Christy Williams
I'd use a tanking kit to be on the safe side. For the extra cost of a tanking kit it is well worth it to be 100% certain that the job will last.
Using PVA is a definite no no, unless of course it is specified to be used as a tiling primer by the tile adhesive manufacturer.
You can tile directly onto the moisture resistant plasterboard, but I'd use a tanking kit first in the shower area.
I think from what is said in the video that a type of cement board is being used, such as Hardibacker Board or similar rather than plain gypsum plaster board.
The British Standards Institute (BSI) latest codes of practice for BS 5385-1 (wall and floor tiling in normal internal conditions), overseeing works in wet areas. Under new revisions, all substrates should be waterproofed before tiling, even in domestic locations.
Thanks for the comment 👍
A few simple dust exposure control strategies can be implemented to deal with that. The idea is long term durability of the project and structure. Have you had projects completed with non water resistant products that have lasted longer than 30 years? It would seem that the industry standards are based on such concepts and long term case study.
I was told that you should use nonails then screw plaster board on I think you need more screw in your plasterboard ?
The fixing foam that I used is designed for fixing plasterboard. Mechanical fixings are only used to comply with the building regulations.
Hi Handyman... Just a quick question. If tanking in a shower area. Should you install the shower tray first and then tank.... or Tank then install shower tray ?
Thanks !
I'd tank it first, then use a sealing strip
Bath sealing strip
***** Thanks for the quick reply + advice! Been through about 90% of your videos in the past week. Feel ready to tackle any job now :-)
h45man
You are welcome ;-)
If you do get air bubbles in the tape, you can easily remove them. Use a hot air gun on the LOWEST setting use just enough heat to make the surface of the tape warm NOT HOT!! you will find the air bubbles will easily "roll out" towards the edge. The heat seems to defeat the adhesive temporarily but it becomes solidly bonded again as it cools.
one of the best videos I've come across. thanks so much for the advice. going to give it a spin now!
Thanks for the comment ;-)
What about if i am removing existing tiles in a shower area, should i be able to tank the existing plasterboard?
It depends on it's condition. As long as it's in good condition and dry it should be ok. But normally when removing tiles it almost destroys the plasterboard
How did you find that tanking kit performed, I've read reviews that say it's got lumps in it when applying the membrane
This was filmed a few years back, but if I remember there was bits in it, I just puled them out using my fingers- wearing a disposable glove.
Thanks for the comment 👍
where do i buy this? or is there anything similar in wickes or homebase?
I bought mine from ebay.
I just checked wickes and homebase and could not find anything similar
Amazon is the cheapest
You can buy a similar product in Topps Tiles!
Great video, thank you. I have a few questions I'm hoping someone can answer for me:
I didn't think plasterboard was supposed to be used in this situation?
Would waterproof grout onto a cement board like aquapanel, be good enough to stop the water getting through?
Plasterboard can be used providing it is tanked (even better if you use moisture resistant plasterboard, like in this video). If you use Aquapanel you do not need to tank the area.
I'm not sure if waterproof grout makes any difference.
Thanks for the comment
@@ultimatehandyman Thank you so much for the reply. Bet you never thought you'd be answering a question from a video that you posted 8 years ago.
Your other video of the bath installation was great, I've never seen the tape that gives the bath a tile upstand, I will certainly be buying some of that. Thanks for the help, your videos are great, thumbs up from me!
@@michaelbirchall2247 You are welcome, Michael. I try to answer all comments, but sometimes there are problems with the UA-cam comment system, so I do not always see them. The bath sealing tape is great ;-)
Thanks for the comments
What's the advantages of using this system over tile backer board
It normally works out less expensive, also most tile backer boards contain silica (we us silica in some products at work and when working near it we have to wear dust masks etc.), so drilling and cutting it should be done with caution.
Thanks for the comment
Anybody know if there's anyway to waterproof a shower area that's already tiled? The other side of bathroom wall gets damp, and plaster's starting to crumble... I bought a can of DuPont Water-based aerosol Grout Sealer. I've yet to apply it, but looking for any suggestions before I do. Thanks.
Not sure if the grout sealer will work or not 🤔
@@ultimatehandyman Thanks for reply. I think I will just remove the old grout, re-grout all the gaps, and then apply this DuPont sealer over whole area. It might buy me some time, as I can't gut the shower area right now.