Generally speaking I work on the principle of two pots of coffee a wall, a packet of Sainsburys custard creams and the cost of sending my wife off for a few days to visit the grandchildren so that I can get on with the job without being bombarded with good advice.
iv been a self employed bathroom and kitchen fitter for years and this is honestly one of the best tutorials iv seen, shows the importance of setting out and wraparound nothing worse then a slither cut
You have personally helped me through a full house renovation with out any previous knowledge of any of these skills before. Start to finish you have been a massive help. Thank you so much. Please keep it up:-)
A few people said to me to start tiling from the most square corner, but I took your advice which makes far more sense... This was the first time I have ever tiled and following your tips for measuring and marking out the tiles and other tips it turned out... Very very well! Now it has the test of time! Thanks for the advice from your clips.
Fantastic tutorial. Setting out is so important and I always take my time when doing this. What can complicate setting out even further is when using a patterned tile or a tile which has a definite grain/pattern. If your tile is patterned, the setting out is crucial as the pattern needs to 'wrap' around the corners, so when you look at the corner, the 2 cuts that meet looks like a whole tile and the pattern 'picks' up. Just like decorative wallpaper. I do a lot of large format Travertine and those tiles are also naturally shady, so even more tricky!. So, basically, as I cut a tile into a corner, the bit that comes off, goes onto the wall immediately next to it. Pattern picks up, colour is the same, and corner look symmetrical. And if you have the same tiles on the floor as the walls, the lines/joints, colour/symmetry also needs to match up. Tricky!!!!
Hi, I was actually looking for installing pop up drains but came across this, great video BUT....... I just tiled my bathroom with only my own home grown knowledge so never actually been shown how to tile. So here we are, I have no laser level and so just had to spend a LOT of time measuring everything. It took me a few hours just measuring over and over just to get all the tiles spaced EXACTLY the same at each end of the wall and floor to ceiling but it now looks great. I have only one problem....... OCD is a complete bugger. Well worth taking your time working everything out first. It would be great if someone made a "Laser Grid" that covered the wall and you just moved it around the room. Go on invent it :-)
Although starting from the 'middle' is technically correct. However, I do think trying to factor in how a tile will look visually is important. For instance, trying to put in 'full' tiles, where the eye will go is a lot prettier. I prefer tile 'cuts' behind doors, where they might not get noticed....
Where to start is critical your video and helpful tip is to myself an outstanding video please keep up the great work as you are very helpful at preventing common mistakes that even I have made in the past, thank you for the fine effort you made on this vital tiling intro
Once again I see I am not too old to learn, probably the best vid I have found on here thank you for that, took a while to become accustomed to your accent but you probably wouldn't get past my Welsh one either. I am about to trawl through your 309 vids to see if there is one on floor tiles. or more like how to redo a bad job
Thanks for the update. I have been asked to quote a job, to tile a wall that is as bad as the one in the beginning of of your video. Tanking a room! Do they come as kits and roughly how much! as the client said she doesn't want to have to pay plasters to come in to re-plaster the wall.
Yes the tanking comes as a kit, it's about £40 for the kit I used. I removed all that damaged plaster and boarded it out with water resistant plasterboard (much cheaper than tile backer board). You only need to tank in wet areas, such as the shower area.
Thank you handyman for having the balls to show your methods. The laser is a good tool of convenience. It always stays there unlike chalk lines which dissappears, with tile mortar. I use both and double check everything.
i am doing a bathroom reno. tiling the floor and the tub surround for a drop in tub, and back splash. which do you tile first, the tub surround or the floor? and what kind tile joint at the surround and floor intersection. thanks for the video.
Informative, thank you. Now form what I've learned, if you have a level horizontal starting point, starting at the bottom is absolutely fine so long as your vertical line level & corrected (offset adjustments for left/right even cuts, etc) and of course leveling the horizontal line at the bottom while checking the first installed row for horizontal level. Your thoughts on the bottom-up (level of course) process when one is able to get a true level?
Hello, I've been laying tile professionally for 5 years now and what you describe is a perfectly fine method, we use this method all the time (as long as the floor permits it ofc). Measure your tile (lets say it's 20cm tall), use a laser to set a line 20cm off the floor, chalk that line, and lay the first roe, making sure you use spacers so the top of the tile touches that line. After that you have a perfectly level wall. Start tiling from there. Be careful tho, sometimes the floor won't allow it, but sometimes that happens in spaces that people don't see (like behind a toilet or behind a counter).
Excellent video, I wish the chap who had put my shower in had watched it. No tanking, no seal around the edge of the shower and very thin application of grout. To be fair I was away with the army and the family was using a shower in the caravan in February, so he did us a favor by getting the bathroom up and running. Never Mind what doesn't kill us, but puts two damp areas on your ceiling; makes you go in search of people like yourself who clearly know what they are doing. Thank you, ok then let go and have a go :)
Thanks, I'm afraid there are lots of people that don't install bathrooms correctly. I don't think they purposely do a bad job, they just aren't aware of the new materials etc. Thanks for the comment
great vid. Am just about to start my tiling in the kitchen, when I knocked off the old tiles off a lot of the grout stayed on the wall, its really solid. Can I leave it on or should i chip it all off?
Heard your piece on Radio 4 last week. Really interesting to hear the reasons for your helpful videos. Keep up the good work. An inspirational vision for us all to take note of.
Mate. You started at a great ace. But how did you make the surface right to start tiling. What tools did you use to remove the adhesive. What did you used to smooth and prep the wall.
These videos should help- How to remove plaster- ua-cam.com/video/KroAfHVx4zo/v-deo.html I then fixed new boards to the walls (moisture resistant) using foam- ua-cam.com/video/3CJygvnajUA/v-deo.html Then it was tanked using a tanking kit- ua-cam.com/video/IwR-vS4xc9g/v-deo.html&t Thanks for the comment
English tiling is quite diferent from others. A good starting point is of course at the bottom. Nail a bar there (setting the second layer) and work up to the top. Finish at the bottom with the first layer which now is fitting perfect.
Because it's virtually impossible to have a perfectly rectangular wall. Those cuts should be more or less even on both sides and by doing so you can hide even a very large 'leaning walls': corners will appear straight even if they are not.
I'm about to install 4" by 4" slate diagonally as backsplash but also all the way up to the ceiling on 3 walls which have moved a bit last 100 years. Would you say the best way to install tile on walls like these are to start at the bottom row (with tiles cut in half diagonally) centered from the middle and after that to build up the corners to make these seem square? Or would you go systematically one row at a time upwards?
I'd start at the bottom row with the tiles cut in half diagonally, after checking that it's not going to leave any really awkward tile cuts at the top. Good luck with the tiling ;-)
Thanks again for your brilliant video. Did you treat the plaster board with a waterproofing treatment before tiling? Just wondering as I am about to do the same around a bath with power shower.
Hey thanks very much for that, it'll really help me out. Just one thing though, if your laser was set exactly in the middle of the wall you don't need to lay your tiles out twice- horizontally or vertically, they'll work out pretty much the same at both ends. Not being insulting, just an observation. Hope the job worked out well for you.
I have a Question, What would you say is best on the eye's, of were to hide the tile cuts. I have mesuered the center of the wall as the starting point, This will leave 3 half inch both sides, my thinking is to move the center point and have 7'' in one corner, and this corner is were you walk into the bath room.
Hi I'm tiling a bath splashback. I used mapei waterproofing kit which overhangs onto the top of the bath. How do I finish the bottom row of tiles to hide the bottom of the waterproofing; should I trim the waterproofing back maybe and then silicone?
Hi. Thanks for the video. I'm tiling my bathroom & putting in a bath, my tiles along the bath length are the same length as the wall when including the grout lines (lucky me), so my question is, as I'm starting tiling on that wall before my bath is delivered can I just start at one corner because no tiles will need to be cut until I get to the bath line? Also, I've just had my walls plastered, will that be a problem or should I just make sure I get the right adhesive to cater for this? Thanks
You can start in the corner, but just make sure the wall is square or the tiles might be out at the other end of the wall. The plaster needs to be completely dry before you can tile onto it, that might be a few days if it was just skimmed or a few weeks if a backing coat and skim was applied. Thanks for the comment
Hi This is ok for that one wall but you have three other walls with height obstacles on these other walls ie windows frames windows at different heights etc. That might work out fine on your first wall but what happens when you tile onto the next wall and come up to the window and have a really thin cut? Remember the very first tile you lay height wise dictates where every other tile will fall. Is it not easier to put a datum line around the whole room and using a length of wood mark the datum line onto it, then you can go around each wall marking all the heights /obstacles onto the wood then to the next wall and so on. Now you have all the heights and obstacles marked onto your wood/staff .placing the staff back onto the wall matching the datum line on the wall where you first marked it on your staff, now you can transfer all your heights onto your first wall, therefore bringing all your heights to one wall. Now mark your tiles including spacer gaps on the other side of the staff all the way up, now all you have to do is slide the staff up and down until you get the best cuts possible around any height obstacles.Mark under the staff and fix your battern. Now you don’t have to worry where you tiles will fall height wise all around the room, as you’ve just worked them all out.Your widths would be done separately on each wall you come to always trying to get the best cuts possible. Hope this help Mick
Hi, thanks for the video. Do you have any tips or suggestions for tiling with marble tiles that have a fibre-mesh backing on the back of the tile. Can I still use marble tile mortar or must I use epoxy? Thanks in advance
You are welcome. There is some specific advice for tiling with Marble tiles here, it should help ;-) www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/how-to/specific-tiling-advice/marble-tile-fitting
great video, i dont have a fancy lazer but thinking it would save some time and something to consider but i use a long drywall ruler with a water level to mark out my points after i find center and try and keep the end tiles equal also top and bottom tiles due to my OCD but you explained it perfect
I am a heating engineer by trade and just never crossed paths with the professional bathroom installation world and all that entails. However I have moved to France and subsequently set up a plumbing and heating business and the vast majority of business enquires are for full bathroom fits. So I have taken on three new bathrooms fitments. The partition work and plasterboarding is finished, I am now going to attempt to tile all three, one owhich has multiple recesses ! Have you any tips for fitting tiles to applications such as this ? Enjoyed your videoes by the way, keep it up :)
***** Hi mate, sorry to bother you again. I apologise if you get asked this question alot. I am going to be tiling onto normal plasterboard walls, should I apply PVA or simply tile straight onto the plasterboard surface itself ? I have heard horror stories concerning the use of PVA because it reconstitutes once moistures ingress takes place thus causing the tiles to eventually fall off. Have you any sound tips or valuable advice concerning this ? A shower cabin is being installed so there should be no direct area of tiles exposed constantly to water apart from around the sink itself. Thanks in advice
Clempt90 No problem. In wet areas such as showers it is essential to tank the area, or else water eventually gets behind the tiles and spoils the plasterboard. PVA should not be used unless it is specified by the tile adhesive manufacturer. I did a video on tanking some time back- Tanking
Starting from the corner is a new school way and can make sense with the correct measurements and variables. Starting from the middle is a old school method, which also works, with the correct variables. Neither one is wrong as long as the result is the same. Remember, this is remodel, in old houses, things change over time, basic rules but changed when necessary, to look as perfect as possible. Go with what you know but be open to new ideas that make sense to you. Thank you handyman.
Woodomain - Jeremy Broun We tend to use both over here LOL. Metric is much easier for most things though, especially in engineering. Thanks for the comment
any particular reason not to finish the prep first e.g plying the floor and tiling it? it would eliminate the uncertainty of where the bath height will actually be.thanks
I've recently bricked up a window in my house. It has a dry dash exterior and I need to remove the dash from the whole wall before reapplying it. I'm doing this so I won't be able to see where the window was. Would such a drill be able to remove a dry dash finish?
Easiest way to work out centre is to run the lasers across the diagnols draw pencil across on diagonal laser mark .. then do opposite corners and where they cross is the centre of wall X . Take into account floor height with tiles and cornaces to be fitted ( if done )
It depends. It is much more difficult when there is a window, it's best to check the window and sometimes it is best to use the centre of the window as the starting point- so that you have equal cuts at each side of the window. Just try and start somewhere so that you are not left with some awkward cuts.
It's worth noting, if you're going all the way round the bathroom with tiles - what's good on on wall might meet with problems on another , ie. a window or door frame etc.
if the wall is prep with plycem you can start from the corner, in most cases you will plum the framing and would have carted for the tile that you are about to use
Yes consideration of the window is important. Start on side that has a window first to leave a neat finish without cutting slivers of tile to fit round a window sill.
Over the summer holidays I helped my dad tiling and on this job the plastering was so bad my dad had put a row of tiles on then take them off and put more tile adhesive on and the houses were new builds and the frames were made out of timber
Though i understand that if you start with a FULL tile in the corner it'll more than likely be out of plumb if you have a plumb line than you can start in the corner aslong as you have checked the set out and it is a cut in the corener you can always cut point to point and wedge the bottom tile to get it plumb and level
+JamesN976 You can if you like, but I tend to do the walls first, that way there is less chance of breaking a floor tile if you drop a wall tile when tiling or when using a step ladder on the tiles.
It's a laser level, they are very useful. This is the Makita, which I used in this video- ua-cam.com/video/8S0_r4jvdMM/v-deo.html But you can get green laser models, which are a lot more expensive- ua-cam.com/video/O6djiEN-Twc/v-deo.html Thanks for the comment 👍
It depends on the size of tile and how good the adhesive is. In most cases it should be possible to bulk them out a bit, but it's often a case of just testing to see if it works.
hi, i did my own bathroom wall with large tiles, all seems good but i think i used too little adhesive. the finish is flush and level and seems really solid. But i have noticed when i knock on a few their seems to be hollows behind, this must be from where the wall was not as flat as the tile. do i need to drill holes and apply a fix kit or will they be ok?
silly wabbit only if you see the grout cracking out, or the tile coming loose, lots of professional installers simply spot stick the middle and the corners of each tile. If you say it sounds solid, there shouldn't be any problem
Hello, my name is emax pereira, I live in brazil and I intend to move to toronto canada, I have a residential finishing company, we work with porcelain ceramic tiles, residential painting, if possible I wanted you to help me I have some doubts, I can work with My company being Brazilian in Canada? How much does the porcelain tile installation cost? And third, does any company in Canada have the right to register companies to receive direct quotes from customers in their area of operations? I hope you can help me, thank you
In my bathroom, the tiler tiled against the wall opposite the entrance door. The cut tiles were on the other corner, the ones not visible when you look into the bathroom. That sounds right to me from a selling the property point of view.
it would depend on the job really, being a tiler you need to be able to adapt to situations and its an extremely rewarding job where you turn a room from bones to a masterpiece
+stevo728822 I generally start where you look the most. If that means there are half cuts behind the door then it's a trade off with aesthetics. Sometimes you need to tile the floor first so you can line up the wall tiles with the floor. This means that I'm going to start with a full tile on the floor in front of the bath so it looks good. Again it's a trade off. It may be that the tiles against the bath will need to be trimmed to make a nicer cut somewhere else. Usually the rest of the room has distractions like towel rails, mirrors, shower screens and windows and doors. So I never start in the middle of a wall or a floor. That's my last option.
Here's a great tip from Wickes and Schluter pros alike: use an exact template of the tile (paper, cardboard, wood) to pencil mark off all your tile. As you get to the sides, note how much off you are from a full tile. If it is a little, move your center over to one side so you have more tile than less for that one last tile, while subsuming the other side entirely. So, no tiny slivers on either side. You want the eye to feel balanced in any tile situation. It is, after all, about how things look. Balance is key. You start in the center because A. not all walls on either side are plumb or straight, and B. the wall or floor spaces will not coincide with your tile size choice. So it is always best to map out your tile setting before you do so, and your 'on-center' area should be variable so as to balance the edges of the room or wall. You need to plan exactly to the 16th. Tile has no wiggle room, it's not wood. You have to be accurate. And you have to consider how it falls on the observer. You want your tile work to be clean, balanced, and professional.
Why not use your laser level to find the highest point on the floor and full tile from floor up? Only wouldn't work if it left you a sliver at ceiling. (I realise in your floor is not fitted yet)
They are widely available in most tool shops or on ebay, Makita, Bosch, Dewalt all make them. The one in the video is a Makita, as reviewed here- ua-cam.com/video/8S0_r4jvdMM/v-deo.html
If your floorboards are loose, as in this video shown by the laser moving up and down as he walks, then you need to be careful you don't keep changing the position of the laser as you move around.
it all depends how much of the wall is covered... for a full wall, mark tiles and gaps on a long stick... then use this to mark tile positions on the wall.. STARTING AT THE HIGHEST CORNER of the room....
I've been tiling for years and completly agree with all your methods, i align all my walls using the same methods, works perfectly for me every time. God bless dewalt lasers. You must laugh at some of the stupid comments you get.. Just out of interest do you tile the floor before finishing your wall tile base cuts or do you scribe the floor tiles to meet the walls ?
This is why I only watch European videos for home improvement.. us Americans talk way too much often resulting in a bit of confusion throughout tutorial videos. I've watched dozens of these videos and this is the first time I truly understood why you start in the middle.
correct tiled many times and you should always start from centre of wall making equal tiles widths at ends both horizontally and vertically always works for me ppl
waterproofing where is it , there is a lot more to tiling a bathroom than this , did i here you say tiling on top of skirting bord in bath room its timber floor tile first then wall tile , if you end up with skinny bit of tile then move red line to grought line ,
The shower area has been tanked before tiling. No, I was not tiling on top of the skirting boards, I tiled right down to the floor (minus expansion gap). This video is just to explain where to start tiling as many people get it wrong, how to tile etc. is covered in other videos- Tanking How to tile Tiling around pipe entries
Who taught you to tile if you do the floor first, set out first then start at lowest full tile on walls to ceiling then floor then bottom row on walls.
How do you make a wall straight for Tiling? At the bottom, I need to add an extra 1.5cm to make the wall straight.. At the top it is fine. I would have to use 2.5cm of file glue (it seems wrong somehow). Even, it done this way, creates new probem. The wall ends with a door flame, which is about 4cm. The door frame would be covered by 1.5cm at top and 2.5cm at bottom. So it will show the wall is not straight. It is like you fix one thing, but you create a new problem.... how to solve???
Completely over complicated.Using a tape measure find the center point between the floor and the ceiling and mark,measure down the tile distance from the mark for example 200x200 if the cut to the floor is less than half a tile measure down again half a tile above the center and mark.Set your laser to the mark and then use the same principal again wall to wall.Happy tiling.
I found this video a bit confusing...., why to make a very simple thing this confusing?? if you start from the middle, you only measure one side, or up only?? Done this, ...done that =) By the way, this laser is neat to use, very handy..., if it does not move;o)
Great videos - although I'd suggest you hang 2-3 towels in the room, near your mouth (or audio source) but off camera; you'll reduce the distracting reverb quite a bit, especially in a square room.
LOL! Honestly, I have volume off but I believe you make the most sense; if only in pictures. I bet you play a mean game of snooker; laser's just enhances your perfection - just a guess. PEACE OUT
With all due respect to this video & actually others as well that profess to have the best methodology of setting or starting tiles, here's my two cents. IMO, the most essential part of starting & ending up with a great looking job is to be sure to square & level up all your beginning points in this simply geometrical pattern. For example, on a 5' unit bath enclosure, if your side vertical walls are out of plumb by an inch due to prior movement or not furring the walls properly before installing your wallboard product, you're at a terrible disadvantage to begin with. You're going to end up with a slanted wall in the corners regardless of how much you adjust your tiles or pattern. With any tile job, being plumb & level all due to proper starting points is a critical issue & it seems most videos don't even address that aspect to the many laymen hoping to pick up good pointers by watching. I'll go along with the centering of your tiles to work left to right or vice versa but I'll disagree that a base strip isn't a good idea to begin stacking tiles from the bottom up if your walls are dimensionally level & plumb. Perhaps I'm overstating the obvious but I'd hate to see many who might attempt their first job not take this simple aspect into consideration. Simply make sure of your outside dimensions (60" at the top plumb to 60" at the bottom plumb left to right), make sure your base is level (especially with a preformed molded pan) & as you lay row by row, keep checking each graduation with your level. Much of a miscalculation from left to right can be worked out manipulating your grout joints a tad here & there so not to be terribly noticeable with your vertical corners. There are so many patterns & styles in laying tiles, the methodology you use to lay them isn't cast in stone but checking those all important beginning measurements will help assure a smoother & easier flow to the entire job..
I'm a pro tile setter and I agree with your method, that's what we use in the industry and it's much faster and saves the headache of looking at this wall and trying to figure it out. Just run a laser at the bottom.
Generally speaking I work on the principle of two pots of coffee a wall, a packet of Sainsburys custard creams and the cost of sending my wife off for a few days to visit the grandchildren so that I can get on with the job without being bombarded with good advice.
iv been a self employed bathroom and kitchen fitter for years and this is honestly one of the best tutorials iv seen, shows the importance of setting out and wraparound nothing worse then a slither cut
Thanks Anthony, it's always good to receive positive feedback from a professional ;-)
Im hoping you're no longer working.
You have personally helped me through a full house renovation with out any previous knowledge of any of these skills before. Start to finish you have been a massive help. Thank you so much. Please keep it up:-)
+scott kennedy
That's great to know!
Thanks for the comment Scott ;-)
Ditto your comment sir, UHM Videos have helped me remodel my home too! There a Great to use as a reference
A few people said to me to start tiling from the most square corner, but I took your advice which makes far more sense... This was the first time I have ever tiled and following your tips for measuring and marking out the tiles and other tips it turned out... Very very well! Now it has the test of time! Thanks for the advice from your clips.
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Fantastic tutorial. Setting out is so important and I always take my time when doing this. What can complicate setting out even further is when using a patterned tile or a tile which has a definite grain/pattern. If your tile is patterned, the setting out is crucial as the pattern needs to 'wrap' around the corners, so when you look at the corner, the 2 cuts that meet looks like a whole tile and the pattern 'picks' up. Just like decorative wallpaper. I do a lot of large format Travertine and those tiles are also naturally shady, so even more tricky!. So, basically, as I cut a tile into a corner, the bit that comes off, goes onto the wall immediately next to it. Pattern picks up, colour is the same, and corner look symmetrical. And if you have the same tiles on the floor as the walls, the lines/joints, colour/symmetry also needs to match up. Tricky!!!!
I can imagine some patterned tiles being a real nightmare.
Thanks for the comment ;-)
Hi, I was actually looking for installing pop up drains but came across this, great video BUT....... I just tiled my bathroom with only my own home grown knowledge so never actually been shown how to tile. So here we are, I have no laser level and so just had to spend a LOT of time measuring everything. It took me a few hours just measuring over and over just to get all the tiles spaced EXACTLY the same at each end of the wall and floor to ceiling but it now looks great. I have only one problem....... OCD is a complete bugger. Well worth taking your time working everything out first. It would be great if someone made a "Laser Grid" that covered the wall and you just moved it around the room. Go on invent it :-)
Great video, but what if you have a niche in the center? Would you recommend doing the same layout steps?
Although starting from the 'middle' is technically correct.
However, I do think trying to factor in how a tile will look visually is important. For instance, trying to put in 'full' tiles, where the eye will go is a lot prettier. I prefer tile 'cuts' behind doors, where they might not get noticed....
Where to start is critical your video and helpful tip is to myself an outstanding video please keep up the great work as you are very helpful at preventing common mistakes that even I have made in the past, thank you for the fine effort you made on this vital tiling intro
Once again I see I am not too old to learn, probably the best vid I have found on here thank you for that, took a while to become accustomed to your accent but you probably wouldn't get past my Welsh one either. I am about to trawl through your 309 vids to see if there is one on floor tiles. or more like how to redo a bad job
Thanks for the update. I have been asked to quote a job, to tile a wall that is as bad as the one in the beginning of of your video. Tanking a room! Do they come as kits and roughly how much! as the client said she doesn't want to have to pay plasters to come in to re-plaster the wall.
Yes the tanking comes as a kit, it's about £40 for the kit I used.
I removed all that damaged plaster and boarded it out with water resistant plasterboard (much cheaper than tile backer board). You only need to tank in wet areas, such as the shower area.
Thank you handyman for having the balls to show your methods. The laser is a good tool of convenience. It always stays there unlike chalk lines which dissappears, with tile mortar. I use both and double check everything.
i am doing a bathroom reno. tiling the floor and the tub surround for a drop in tub, and back splash. which do you tile first, the tub surround or the floor? and what kind tile joint at the surround and floor intersection. thanks for the video.
Informative, thank you. Now form what I've learned, if you have a level horizontal starting point, starting at the bottom is absolutely fine so long as your vertical line level & corrected (offset adjustments for left/right even cuts, etc) and of course leveling the horizontal line at the bottom while checking the first installed row for horizontal level. Your thoughts on the bottom-up (level of course) process when one is able to get a true level?
Hello, I've been laying tile professionally for 5 years now and what you describe is a perfectly fine method, we use this method all the time (as long as the floor permits it ofc). Measure your tile (lets say it's 20cm tall), use a laser to set a line 20cm off the floor, chalk that line, and lay the first roe, making sure you use spacers so the top of the tile touches that line. After that you have a perfectly level wall. Start tiling from there. Be careful tho, sometimes the floor won't allow it, but sometimes that happens in spaces that people don't see (like behind a toilet or behind a counter).
Excellent video, I wish the chap who had put my shower in had watched it. No tanking, no seal around the edge of the shower and very thin application of grout. To be fair I was away with the army and the family was using a shower in the caravan in February, so he did us a favor by getting the bathroom up and running. Never Mind what doesn't kill us, but puts two damp areas on your ceiling; makes you go in search of people like yourself who clearly know what they are doing. Thank you, ok then let go and have a go :)
Thanks, I'm afraid there are lots of people that don't install bathrooms correctly. I don't think they purposely do a bad job, they just aren't aware of the new materials etc.
Thanks for the comment
great vid. Am just about to start my tiling in the kitchen, when I knocked off the old tiles off a lot of the grout stayed on the wall, its really solid. Can I leave it on or should i chip it all off?
definitely remove all of the old grout, plus any thinset/mortar otherwise your walls won't be flat
Heard your piece on Radio 4 last week. Really interesting to hear the reasons for your helpful videos. Keep up the good work. An inspirational vision for us all to take note of.
Mate. You started at a great ace. But how did you make the surface right to start tiling. What tools did you use to remove the adhesive. What did you used to smooth and prep the wall.
These videos should help-
How to remove plaster- ua-cam.com/video/KroAfHVx4zo/v-deo.html
I then fixed new boards to the walls (moisture resistant) using foam-
ua-cam.com/video/3CJygvnajUA/v-deo.html
Then it was tanked using a tanking kit- ua-cam.com/video/IwR-vS4xc9g/v-deo.html&t
Thanks for the comment
English tiling is quite diferent from others. A good starting point is of course at the bottom. Nail a bar there (setting the second layer) and work up to the top. Finish at the bottom with the first layer which now is fitting perfect.
top class work, great to see u using levels, would never trust anyone who didn't work of levels
+Mike Gre Thanks for the comment ;-)
+John Smith why not
Because it's virtually impossible to have a perfectly rectangular wall. Those cuts should be more or less even on both sides and by doing so you can hide even a very large 'leaning walls': corners will appear straight even if they are not.
hi ive got to say i always search yourself when i want to know something and your tips are top notch.keep it up
That is good to know ;-)
Thanks for the comment
Your are 100% correct in your setting out. Go to the library and read books on it ppl!
+Girrlraven Thanks for the comment ;-)
I'm about to install 4" by 4" slate diagonally as backsplash but also all the way up to the ceiling on 3 walls which have moved a bit last 100 years. Would you say the best way to install tile on walls like these are to start at the bottom row (with tiles cut in half diagonally) centered from the middle and after that to build up the corners to make these seem square? Or would you go systematically one row at a time upwards?
I'd start at the bottom row with the tiles cut in half diagonally, after checking that it's not going to leave any really awkward tile cuts at the top.
Good luck with the tiling ;-)
Thanks again for your brilliant video. Did you treat the plaster board with a waterproofing treatment before tiling? Just wondering as I am about to do the same around a bath with power shower.
You are welcome.
Yes, I tanked the shower area- ua-cam.com/video/IwR-vS4xc9g/v-deo.html
Thanks for the comment 👍
Hey thanks very much for that, it'll really help me out. Just one thing though, if your laser was set exactly in the middle of the wall you don't need to lay your tiles out twice- horizontally or vertically, they'll work out pretty much the same at both ends. Not being insulting, just an observation. Hope the job worked out well for you.
If only you knew how many videos iv been trhough looking for this exact information! Good work mate, well done!
How would you find the centre of the room? Just measure it? or does the laser measure the room and or find the centre point for you?
Yes, you would just measure it using a tape measure.
Thanks for the comment
This was the best video I’ve seen so far that I can understand.
Thanks for the comment
hats of to you sir. every diyer needs to know this. the layout makes or breaks the job quick
+zach marshall
Thanks for the comment ;-)
great. you are the guys who is using his brain. really nice job.
Thanks for the comment 👍
I have a Question, What would you say is best on the eye's, of were to hide the tile cuts. I have mesuered the center of the wall as the starting point, This will leave 3 half inch both sides, my thinking is to move the center point and have 7'' in one corner, and this corner is were you walk into the bath room.
That sounds fine 👍
Hi I'm tiling a bath splashback. I used mapei waterproofing kit which overhangs onto the top of the bath. How do I finish the bottom row of tiles to hide the bottom of the waterproofing; should I trim the waterproofing back maybe and then silicone?
I think that is the only thing you can do if the kit overhangs.
Thanks for the comment
Hi.
Thanks for the video.
I'm tiling my bathroom & putting in a bath, my tiles along the bath length are the same length as the wall when including the grout lines (lucky me), so my question is, as I'm starting tiling on that wall before my bath is delivered can I just start at one corner because no tiles will need to be cut until I get to the bath line?
Also, I've just had my walls plastered, will that be a problem or should I just make sure I get the right adhesive to cater for this?
Thanks
You can start in the corner, but just make sure the wall is square or the tiles might be out at the other end of the wall.
The plaster needs to be completely dry before you can tile onto it, that might be a few days if it was just skimmed or a few weeks if a backing coat and skim was applied.
Thanks for the comment
Ultimate Handyman Thank you.
Hi
This is ok for that one wall but you have three other walls with height obstacles on these other walls ie windows frames windows at different heights etc. That might work out fine on your first wall but what happens when you tile onto the next wall and come up to the window and have a really thin cut? Remember the very first tile you lay height wise dictates where every other tile will fall. Is it not easier to put a datum line around the whole room and using a length of wood mark the datum line onto it, then you can go around each wall marking all the heights /obstacles onto the wood then to the next wall and so on. Now you have all the heights and obstacles marked onto your wood/staff .placing the staff back onto the wall matching the datum line on the wall where you first marked it on your staff, now you can transfer all your heights onto your first wall, therefore bringing all your heights to one wall. Now mark your tiles including spacer gaps on the other side of the staff all the way up, now all you have to do is slide the staff up and down until you get the best cuts possible around any height obstacles.Mark under the staff and fix your battern. Now you don’t have to worry where you tiles will fall height wise all around the room, as you’ve just worked them all out.Your widths would be done separately on each wall you come to always trying to get the best cuts possible.
Hope this help
Mick
Thanks Mick ;-)
Hi, thanks for the video. Do you have any tips or suggestions for tiling with marble tiles that have a fibre-mesh backing on the back of the tile. Can I still use marble tile mortar or must I use epoxy? Thanks in advance
You are welcome.
There is some specific advice for tiling with Marble tiles here, it should help ;-)
www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/how-to/specific-tiling-advice/marble-tile-fitting
great video, i dont have a fancy lazer but thinking it would save some time and something to consider but i use a long drywall ruler with a water level to mark out my points after i find center and try and keep the end tiles equal also top and bottom tiles due to my OCD but you explained it perfect
Thanks for the comment, Lee ;-)
I am a heating engineer by trade and just never crossed paths with the professional bathroom installation world and all that entails. However I have moved to France and subsequently set up a plumbing and heating business and the vast majority of business enquires are for full bathroom fits. So I have taken on three new bathrooms fitments. The partition work and plasterboarding is finished, I am now going to attempt to tile all three, one owhich has multiple recesses ! Have you any tips for fitting tiles to applications such as this ? Enjoyed your videoes by the way, keep it up :)
Sorry, I have not video'd how to tile a recess yet (I'll do it when I get chance). Good luck with the tiling, thanks for the comment ;-)
*****
Hi mate, sorry to bother you again. I apologise if you get asked this question alot. I am going to be tiling onto normal plasterboard walls, should I apply PVA or simply tile straight onto the plasterboard surface itself ? I have heard horror stories concerning the use of PVA because it reconstitutes once moistures ingress takes place thus causing the tiles to eventually fall off. Have you any sound tips or valuable advice concerning this ? A shower cabin is being installed so there should be no direct area of tiles exposed constantly to water apart from around the sink itself. Thanks in advice
Clempt90
No problem. In wet areas such as showers it is essential to tank the area, or else water eventually gets behind the tiles and spoils the plasterboard. PVA should not be used unless it is specified by the tile adhesive manufacturer.
I did a video on tanking some time back-
Tanking
*****
Thanks for the advice mate
Clempt90
You are welcome ;-)
just wondering what kind of price would be charged for this job......
Starting from the corner is a new school way and can make sense with the correct measurements and variables. Starting from the middle is a old school method, which also works, with the correct variables. Neither one is wrong as long as the result is the same. Remember, this is remodel, in old houses, things change over time, basic rules but changed when necessary, to look as perfect as possible. Go with what you know but be open to new ideas that make sense to you. Thank you handyman.
Great to see you still use inches!
Woodomain - Jeremy Broun
We tend to use both over here LOL.
Metric is much easier for most things though, especially in engineering.
Thanks for the comment
Never get bored of watching you vids, wished ive had watched this video before i tiled my bathroom lol
Videos are great, very informative and I like your style. really enjoying watching them
any particular reason not to finish the prep first e.g plying the floor and tiling it? it would eliminate the uncertainty of where the bath height will actually be.thanks
I've recently bricked up a window in my house. It has a dry dash exterior and I need to remove the dash from the whole wall before reapplying it. I'm doing this so I won't be able to see where the window was. Would such a drill be able to remove a dry dash finish?
Yes an SDS drill with roto stop will easily remove render etc. You can see one here removing plaster- How to remove plaster
***** Yes, sorry, I put my comment on the wrong video. I had been watching the video on how to remove plaster. Thank you.
Jon Gold
No problem, I wasn't sure if I mentioned it in this video without watching it again LOL.
very clear and very use full. Ultimate handyman is the best..
Easiest way to work out centre is to run the lasers across the diagnols draw pencil across on diagonal laser mark .. then do opposite corners and where they cross is the centre of wall X . Take into account floor height with tiles and cornaces to be fitted ( if done )
never seen anyone tile with this level of care before.
+logical fruit Thanks for the comment ;-)
What happens when tiling the whole bathroom and it has a window do you use the sill as the level line ?? Bob
It depends. It is much more difficult when there is a window, it's best to check the window and sometimes it is best to use the centre of the window as the starting point- so that you have equal cuts at each side of the window. Just try and start somewhere so that you are not left with some awkward cuts.
Great video. Very informative. Do you have a video of when you tiled this bathroom?
It's worth noting, if you're going all the way round the bathroom with tiles - what's good on on wall might meet with problems on another , ie. a window or door frame etc.
👍
if the wall is prep with plycem you can start from the corner, in most cases you will plum the framing and would have carted for the tile that you are about to use
to start tiling in the middle of wall do i need to put up something to hold bottom line of tiles
Matt Marshall
Yes, some form of straight batten fixed perfectly level should help;-)
Centering the tile means cutting both left and right. Starting on the side means cutting only one side. What's the benefit again?
So it is symmetrical both sides!
Yes consideration of the window is important. Start on side that has a window first to leave a neat finish without cutting slivers of tile to fit round a window sill.
sorry to ask again. what were the spacees called that you use for tiling
No problem, they are called sure tile spacers.
Over the summer holidays I helped my dad tiling and on this job the plastering was so bad my dad had put a row of tiles on then take them off and put more tile adhesive on and the houses were new builds and the frames were made out of timber
Thanks for the comment ;-)
thanks for putting some time making this instruction video...it did help me a lot.
how did you get that wall ready for tiling? what did you to it? thanks.
Though i understand that if you start with a FULL tile in the corner it'll more than likely be out of plumb if you have a plumb line than you can start in the corner aslong as you have checked the set out and it is a cut in the corener you can always cut point to point and wedge the bottom tile to get it plumb and level
Can you tile the floor first or is it better to do the walls first?
+JamesN976 You can if you like, but I tend to do the walls first, that way there is less chance of breaking a floor tile if you drop a wall tile when tiling or when using a step ladder on the tiles.
+Ultimate Handyman I see that makes sense.
Another great video ultimatehandyman, will come back to this before i start tiling.
after 10 year watching this good video👍
👍
Excellent video. You explain your video to the T.
Thanks for the comment
What is that laser device? Do you have a video about that?
It's a laser level, they are very useful. This is the Makita, which I used in this video- ua-cam.com/video/8S0_r4jvdMM/v-deo.html
But you can get green laser models, which are a lot more expensive- ua-cam.com/video/O6djiEN-Twc/v-deo.html
Thanks for the comment 👍
How much can you bulk out the space behind the tile ,with the Tile mortar?
It depends on the size of tile and how good the adhesive is. In most cases it should be possible to bulk them out a bit, but it's often a case of just testing to see if it works.
hi, i did my own bathroom wall with large tiles, all seems good but i think i used too little adhesive. the finish is flush and level and seems really solid. But i have noticed when i knock on a few their seems to be hollows behind, this must be from where the wall was not as flat as the tile. do i need to drill holes and apply a fix kit or will they be ok?
silly wabbit only if you see the grout cracking out, or the tile coming loose, lots of professional installers simply spot stick the middle and the corners of each tile. If you say it sounds solid, there shouldn't be any problem
Can you do this with the laser. Like a tape measurer?
Wayne Mars It would be difficult as they are not normally self leveling, or that accurate.
Good video and well explained.
Thank you!
Hello, my name is emax pereira, I live in brazil and I intend to move to toronto canada, I have a residential finishing company, we work with porcelain ceramic tiles, residential painting, if possible I wanted you to help me I have some doubts, I can work with My company being Brazilian in Canada? How much does the porcelain tile installation cost? And third, does any company in Canada have the right to register companies to receive direct quotes from customers in their area of operations? I hope you can help me, thank you
Hello Emax, I have no idea, sorry as I am based in the UK.
What type of laser lever are you using?
+Thomas Solano It's a Makita, I reviewed it here a few years back- ua-cam.com/video/8S0_r4jvdMMT/v-deo.htmlhanks for the comment
In my bathroom, the tiler tiled against the wall opposite the entrance door. The cut tiles were on the other corner, the ones not visible when you look into the bathroom. That sounds right to me from a selling the property point of view.
it would depend on the job really, being a tiler you need to be able to adapt to situations and its an extremely rewarding job where you turn a room from bones to a masterpiece
+stevo728822 I generally start where you look the most. If that means there are half cuts behind the door then it's a trade off with aesthetics. Sometimes you need to tile the floor first so you can line up the wall tiles with the floor. This means that I'm going to start with a full tile on the floor in front of the bath so it looks good. Again it's a trade off. It may be that the tiles against the bath will need to be trimmed to make a nicer cut somewhere else. Usually the rest of the room has distractions like towel rails, mirrors, shower screens and windows and doors. So I never start in the middle of a wall or a floor. That's my last option.
Here's a great tip from Wickes and Schluter pros alike: use an exact template of the tile (paper, cardboard, wood) to pencil mark off all your tile. As you get to the sides, note how much off you are from a full tile. If it is a little, move your center over to one side so you have more tile than less for that one last tile, while subsuming the other side entirely. So, no tiny slivers on either side. You want the eye to feel balanced in any tile situation. It is, after all, about how things look. Balance is key.
You start in the center because A. not all walls on either side are plumb or straight, and B. the wall or floor spaces will not coincide with your tile size choice. So it is always best to map out your tile setting before you do so, and your 'on-center' area should be variable so as to balance the edges of the room or wall. You need to plan exactly to the 16th. Tile has no wiggle room, it's not wood. You have to be accurate. And you have to consider how it falls on the observer. You want your tile work to be clean, balanced, and professional.
Great video. You must have some balls to be tiling under sniper fire like that - stay out of the crosshairs
😝
Why not use your laser level to find the highest point on the floor and full tile from floor up? Only wouldn't work if it left you a sliver at ceiling.
(I realise in your floor is not fitted yet)
Thanks for the video, ultimatehandyman.
Do the same principles apply to tiling floors as well?
Where do i find the laser line your using on the wall i can really use something like that
They are widely available in most tool shops or on ebay, Makita, Bosch, Dewalt all make them. The one in the video is a Makita, as reviewed here- ua-cam.com/video/8S0_r4jvdMM/v-deo.html
Thanks for the help with these videos i learned alot
Rhamel Hatch
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
If your floorboards are loose, as in this video shown by the laser moving up and down as he walks, then you need to be careful you don't keep changing the position of the laser as you move around.
👍
Great set out tips
Thanks for the comment 👍
If you you stared from the centre you would only have to check one side as the other would be a mirror image of this
no he would not. The other wall might not be square. thats the whole point.
If your starting central, why do you need to check both ways
This video is aimed at people that have never tiled before, so it's best to demonstrate.
Thanks for the comment
it all depends how much of the wall is covered...
for a full wall, mark tiles and gaps on a long stick... then use this to mark tile positions on the wall.. STARTING AT THE HIGHEST CORNER of the room....
👍
Excellent explanation. Thank you!
You are welcome.
Thanks for the comment
How do I become a perfect tiler ? What should I do
You could always go on a course of some kind?
Thanks for the comment 👍
I've been tiling for years and completly agree with all your methods, i align all my walls using the same methods, works perfectly for me every time. God bless dewalt lasers. You must laugh at some of the stupid comments you get.. Just out of interest do you tile the floor before finishing your wall tile base cuts or do you scribe the floor tiles to meet the walls ?
I think it might be a good idea to measure the length of the tile and use multiplication rather than keep moving the tile and marking the wall.
Thanks for the comment 👍
@@ultimatehandyman
Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us.
Interesting is, that you state this as a mistake, but even the companies producing tiles and mortars recommend to tile from the corners!
This is why I only watch European videos for home improvement.. us Americans talk way too much often resulting in a bit of confusion throughout tutorial videos. I've watched dozens of these videos and this is the first time I truly understood why you start in the middle.
Thanks James 👍
correct tiled many times and you should always start from centre of wall making equal tiles widths at ends both horizontally and vertically always works for me ppl
Thanks for the comment
waterproofing where is it , there is a lot more to tiling a bathroom than this , did i here you say tiling on top of skirting bord in bath room its timber floor tile first then wall tile , if you end up with skinny bit of tile then move red line to grought line ,
The shower area has been tanked before tiling. No, I was not tiling on top of the skirting boards, I tiled right down to the floor (minus expansion gap). This video is just to explain where to start tiling as many people get it wrong, how to tile etc. is covered in other videos-
Tanking
How to tile
Tiling around pipe entries
Who taught you to tile if you do the floor first, set out first then start at lowest full tile on walls to ceiling then floor then bottom row on walls.
Before I start tiling is sometimes spend nearly half a day planning out the best way! Then again I work slow 😅😅
How do you make a wall straight for Tiling?
At the bottom, I need to add an extra 1.5cm to make the wall straight.. At the top it is fine. I would have to use 2.5cm of file glue (it seems wrong somehow).
Even, it done this way, creates new probem. The wall ends with a door flame, which is about 4cm. The door frame would be covered by 1.5cm at top and 2.5cm at bottom. So it will show the wall is not straight.
It is like you fix one thing, but you create a new problem.... how to solve???
Thanks. So helpful
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for the comment 👍
Completely over complicated.Using a tape measure find the center point between the floor and the ceiling and mark,measure down the tile distance from the mark for example 200x200 if the cut to the floor is less than half a tile measure down again half a tile above the center and mark.Set your laser to the mark and then use the same principal again wall to wall.Happy tiling.
I found this video a bit confusing...., why to make a very simple thing this confusing?? if you start from the middle, you only measure one side, or up only?? Done this, ...done that =) By the way, this laser is neat to use, very handy..., if it does not move;o)
+Eero Laukkanen Unfortunately some people aren't as bright as you, so I had to attempt to make it idiot proof ;-)
+Ultimate Handyman
Love it lol
i don't mind idiot proof ... especially if it teaches me something i really need to know for success ! Thanks, UH !
Thank you for sharing your experience! Very informative.
Kind Regards. Rudi
You are welcome
Thanks for the comment
Great videos - although I'd suggest you hang 2-3 towels in the room, near your mouth (or audio source) but off camera; you'll reduce the distracting reverb quite a bit, especially in a square room.
Jo Baecker
Thanks for the tip ;-)
LOL! Honestly, I have volume off but I believe you make the most sense; if only in pictures. I bet you play a mean game of snooker; laser's just enhances your perfection - just a guess. PEACE OUT
a lot easier with the bath in. your making a lot of work for your self
Badger goddard It's also a lot easier to damage the bath ;-)
Ultimate Handyman not if your good ;-)
really helpful video...thanks
With all due respect to this video & actually others as well that profess to have the best methodology of setting or starting tiles, here's my two cents.
IMO, the most essential part of starting & ending up with a great looking job is to be sure to square & level up all your beginning points in this simply geometrical pattern.
For example, on a 5' unit bath enclosure, if your side vertical walls are out of plumb by an inch due to prior movement or not furring the walls properly before installing your wallboard product, you're at a terrible disadvantage to begin with. You're going to end up with a slanted wall in the corners regardless of how much you adjust your tiles or pattern.
With any tile job, being plumb & level all due to proper starting points is a critical issue & it seems most videos don't even address that aspect to the many laymen hoping to pick up good pointers by watching.
I'll go along with the centering of your tiles to work left to right or vice versa but I'll disagree that a base strip isn't a good idea to begin stacking tiles from the bottom up if your walls are dimensionally level & plumb.
Perhaps I'm overstating the obvious but I'd hate to see many who might attempt their first job not take this simple aspect into consideration.
Simply make sure of your outside dimensions (60" at the top plumb to 60" at the bottom plumb left to right), make sure your base is level (especially with a preformed molded pan) & as you lay row by row, keep checking each graduation with your level. Much of a miscalculation from left to right can be worked out manipulating your grout joints a tad here & there so not to be terribly noticeable with your vertical corners.
There are so many patterns & styles in laying tiles, the methodology you use to lay them isn't cast in stone but checking those all important beginning measurements will help assure a smoother & easier flow to the entire job..
Agreed
+Ro'ber Harpane' 100% agree...levelled and plumb is key
Ro'ber Harpane' hey appreciate the info
I'm a pro tile setter and I agree with your method, that's what we use in the industry and it's much faster and saves the headache of looking at this wall and trying to figure it out. Just run a laser at the bottom.
Also i alway start at the bottom as long as i have a level line to go to then i can cut and wedge it up to the line