Great vid. Important note for anyone viewing: The Classi Seal upstand used in the video is ‘Classi Seal Plus’! Not to be confused with the ‘Classi Seal Flexible Upstand’. Classi Seal Plus is secured to backer board with tanking membrane as per video.
I've bought the non Plus version, what's the best way to fix it to the backer board? It's more like a rubber strip so I don't think the liquid tanking stuff will take to it. Considering silicone or tile adhesive, or just leaving it loose and let the tile hold it to the wall??
@@SuperVitz I think that whatever upstand system is installed needs to be stuck on with a waterproof material to a tanked or waterproof backerboard. If water gets through tiles (via grout or silicone failure) the water must be able to fall down backerboard, on to upstand and then channeled back to shower tray. The most secure way I know of is to use a flexible upstand that is stuck to wall with tanking membrane and stuck to tray with a bituminous tape, as per video using Classiseal Plus and tanking membrane (blue stuff). Using cement based products to secure upstand seems risky as it’s porous and could suck water down past tray. I bought the Classiseal Flexible Upstand thinking it was the Classiseal Plus. I then bought the Classiseal Plus so I could follow this video exactly. Expensive but not worth the risk I thought.
@@du1896 Both products appear to do same job. If you’re installing a new bath or shower tray then I think the Classiseal Plus with tanking membrane is more comprehensive. If you’re leak proofing an existing unit that can’t be easily removed then the Abacus might be best as it sits on top (Classiseal has built in tape that sticks to the outer sides of the bath/tray, then the top of the Classiseal is stuck to backerboard with tanking as per video).
Very interesting, but I couldn’t help noticing this demo was in an ideal situation. Most of us have to deal with an existing situation and compromise over the install. Perhaps you could address that in a follow up video……! Love the series.😎
Great video. I've fitted a number of showers and shower trays over the years, in a DIY capacity, and have experienced issues with a few down the line. Mainly because I've used the wrong materials. But from now on I think I'll be investing a little more and doing it your way.
Hi guys - I may be wrong on this, but I noticed you're using CM Seal tape in the video and not Classi Seal tape as per the description? The only reason I noticed is because just this week I've been fitting my Mira Flight shower tray and I've been following this video meticulously. Honestly, it's been fantastic and I don't think I could have done without it so thanks for that. I went ahead and purchased Classi Seal which is pretty different to the tape in the video - it's quite a thick rubber and the upstand portion only protrudes around 30/40mm above the top of the shower tray once fitted. I'm all fitted and at the membrane phase (2nd coat) and it's been quite difficult to use the Classi Seal on one of the edges that has around a 5mm gap to the wall - the tape is pretty stiff and tries to peal itself from the wall as you're applying the membrane. The tape in the video would have been perfect. Also, the tanking membrane takes ages to dry on the rubber tape itself. Anyway, just a heads up and if I've got the wrong end of the stick just ignore me 🤣
note for the future. classi make two types of seal. classi seal is a rubber upstand that doesn't get membrane in. classi plus is the fibre type you see in this video.
I kept being told while learning years ago and stand by it to this day, always by pro builders and engineers some are insane at what they do if going to do a job do right first time
Get yourself a set of the suction cups window fitters use and it will make lifting the trays so much easier as you have proper handles to hold, especially once they have been put down on the floor. Well worth the few quid they cost.
Nice touch to give some to Sam on the vid! We need to make sure new generation of tradesmen are clever willing individuals. Looking forward to seeing if Sam made the cut :-)
Great job! Water isn’t going to be an issue with work like that! It was a pleasure meeting Sam too. I have the feeling he’ll love the building game, and just imagine if he helps Roger out with filming, it would be great!
My first project (I'm training as an architect) started on site in October and I'm loving every minute of it. Had a few tricky bits relating to sewers beneath our footings but the job is flying along. I try and get down on site weekly and the enjoyment you get from seeing something you've worked on and designed for the past year progressing on a weekly basis around drawings you've toiled over is phenomenal.
Thanks for the tips on this video! Quick question, do we also need to use the membrane/sealant on the joints between the cement board & where we have screwed the boards to the wall?
Great video, very informative. My only question is what is the tape you used on the vertical corner and around the pipe work? Does that come with the Tanking kit? Thanks.
I’ve always laid my tray on flexi quick set tile adhesive and never ever had an issue 10years later, I personally wouldn’t ever use silicone to put a tray in but like the wall and tanking lads, it’s nice to see another tradesmen doing it right, that’s what I tell customers if you want it done right you’ll pay more but it’ll last forever
Hi I have bought some classi seal tape for around the shower tray. It says to thoroughly roughen the contact surface with steel wool or 120 grade sandpaper. Would you say that means the edge of the shower tray
Hi at 0:43 you say something about giving the chipboard a coat of what sounds like XPR, I’ve searched for this online but can’t find anything that comes close what is the stuff you painted on please ?
Quality work as always if you wouldn't have it on your own house don't do it on others. 👌 the workmanship is second to none on James jobs excellent keep it up fellas .
Hi great video, love your work. So easy when it’s done right. I have to tile a shower for a mate but the plumber installed the shower tray without any aqua strap on the tray, so there is a gap between the tray and the wall what would be the best way of tanking so I don’t get any leaks.
Great video, our builders installed standard plasterboard around our upstairs shower and now I am planning to fit the shower tray and shower. I've done it before but is tanking with a shower waterproofing kit and using the upstand sufficient or would you suggest cutting it all out and putting backer board up? One wall was dot and dab the other way timber framed. I would rather not if I can help it. Thanks
Hi there great video. Can I ask you a question please? If you surveyed a possible customers bathroom for a tray, how do you find out which way the joists are running etc? i am presuming for example the bathroom has a tiled floor so no chance of looking underneath .thank you
Are there showers trays with moulded in/built in upstands? We’ve had these in Canada for decades and they are much better than just relying on silicone or tape.
You guys definitely appear to be skilled & care about doing a good job. Just one point, I work in an office (I'm a surveyor) & we have LOTS of laughs. This is my last & best job before retiring & I'm reluctant to go, even though I have lots of other things I want to do, including using a camera (but for wildlife). Keep your videos coming. 👍
looking to re-fit my bathroom sometime so it's good to get these ideas. Variety is the spice of life which is why I have 3 women on the go, only joking ha ha. Are you still doing "ask Roger" series? I have a project in mind but can't decide which way to go.
How about waterproofing the horizontal joins between the cement boards? I also wondered about all this tanking as also how about the completely open section behind the tiles where the show screen meets the wall ? There is nothing to stop the water moving out left or right beyond the tray!?. You’d love the job Ive just gone to, the tiles were coming off the wall and turns out they had tiles straight onto a plastered wall no doubt on normal plasterboard. The plaster had turned to mush and water coming through ceiling downstairs… rip out and start again job.
Was looking at Abacus due to Rogers last video with them but now won't. Wanted the elements board but its expensive so gone with the same sort of stuff but sold at Wickes instead.
I did mine with this belt and braces approach. It was nearly ten years ago and I've seen zero leaks! Mind you, it is on a downstairs concrete floor...🤣
Hi lads was that shower tray seal you put in the corner. I can get exterior cement board in work. I think that would be ideal for a bathroom what do you think?
Hi Roger I live over in Spain and I’ve a friend bringing me over some classi seal plus for new shower tray however I’m stuck getting the aqua seal waterproof tanking membrane solution due to cost and restrictions. Would a transparent waterproof sealant do the job? Fixing to plastered walls and concrete floors thanks Steve
I think the classi seal you guys have used in the video and the one that’s available in the market is slightly different. Has the brand updated their product?
I agree with Roger, the Mira Flight range of trays are the ones I'd always use. A couple of points: if you're doing a belts and braces approach then you would have tanked all the Hardi Backer, or at least all the board joints. You should use a mesh across all the board joint too (similar to scrim); set in with tile adhesive. You may have done this at the later tiling stage. Hardi Backer sell their own tape, but I use strips of the mesh used in monocouche; this ties all the boards together. One point I'd make to anyone doing this work is protect the tray immediately it's fixed. Walking on it as you do in the video with just the protective film is asking for trouble. Cardboard, or a dust sheet, followed by a cut piece of ply is what always do. A dropped tool, tile or even grit on your boot can result in a very costly error. I do applaud Roger for continually hammering home the importance of good practice in fitting shower trays.
A good question for you on waterproofing the shower in this video. We are not aiming to use tiles, but will be using a "splashwall laminate" from B&Q. Would that go behind the tray or over the top like ceramic tiles?
Is this a new Classi Seal? It looks more fabric like, totally different to the one I've just picked up. Keep up the great work on the videos. Fantastic
@@aidanroyce7194 just checked for you...the rubber type is Classi Seal original and the one that works with the tanking membrane is Classi Seal plus 👍🏻
No one will really be able to tell you without looking at your job site area...you can however start pricing the parts you need yourself, like the tray, screen, tiles and plumbing fixtures for the actual shower. There is a big range of prices and quality, and that's before you've made any aesthetic decisions. Also don't be shy to ask questions in shops and plumbers merchants etc, as there are often tradesmen around who can help as well as the staff, as thing like compatability between screen and tray can be important. Good Luck. :)
Quick question Roger, Did the shower tray you installed have a lip around the edges of the tray? If so will the tiles go over the lip to tile down to the tray? Thanks.
What's the name of the tape going up the corner of the walls? it is not the same tape used around the tray (that is the classi seal). I cant find it on your links, so what is the tape in the corner called?
What is the sealing strip being applied in this video? Roger says ‘classi seal’ but the classi seal I’ve had is thick rubber. This appears to be a lighter fabric?
just installed a shower tray in my house today... (yes i know no bathroom over christmas... wonderfull) always use classi seals on any bath or shower tray install. never used that aquaseal stuff. does it come with the tape you put up the wall? or is that an extra that ya have to buy also? the last bathroom got ripped out due to a leak in the corner also so id rather that doesnt happen again
Would Roger or James recommend that OB1 or CT1 adhesive to help adhere a ceramic toilet to concrete floor, or what ratio of concrete mix would be best. Appreciate your advice, great work there as usual. 👍👏
Hi Kevin, Yes, I’d say that any of the polymer adhesives would be suitable to adhere the toilet to a concrete floor. Just make sure both surfaces are dust free and the toilet is levelled with wedges to because if it’s out of levels and the polymer adhesive dries it will be an absolute pains to get it up again.
Yes always stick it down with polymer or silicone. Years ago we used to bed them on a dollop of mortar but the pan often cracked. You can always remove one that has been stuck down. I cut the screws and just put them in with a bit of silicone so they are dummy screws. It would be good if they stopped putting the holes in.
Hi please reply…I am fitting a shower tray and you have recommended 2 sealing tapes ..this one and then the other tape that goes over the tray and up the wall. Which one is the better??? Please reply!))🙏
This is a Classiseal system and there is not strip on top of the tray. The way it is shown here is to stick the seal to the back sides of the tray and run it up the wall. The corner needs to be puckered up not stretched so the tape goes back against the wall. The tiling then goes over the tape and you seal with silicone in the normal way/
Great video's and very helpful for my renovations and extension build over last couple of years. My timber frame extension spec includes insulated plasterboard for the external walls and one corner will have a shower. What would you advise as best prep to the IP for tiling? I'm considering fixing either 6mm tile backer board or Abacus Elements board on top of the IP as based on your videos tanking directly over the plasterboard is not recommended. Any advise would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Classi seal adhered to tray edge-cement boards over seal-silicone shower tray around edge of boards-paint all corners and joints in cement board with mapei blue tank paint -tile and seal grout Last forever 😊
I'm about to fit a Mira flight tray in my house, was actually considering filling the backside of the tray with 2 part epoxy resin so its perfectly flat. My tray will need to be raised, instead of fitting legs directly to the tray, I'm going to have the tray on 18+mm ply then attach the legs to that, probably twice the number of legs recommended.
I have a leak UNDER a tray - I have removed the screen, but any advice on how to lift the tray and get at the outflow to mend the leak would be much appreciated.
Good luck to the young lad starting out in the building trade do it right and once ! Should had started younger myself when keen and flexible instead time in Mechanics.
DIY'er looking to install a mira flight tray but it's on a solid concrete floor so needs to be raised to accommodate the waste. Are they sturdy enough on the raised legs, or would you recommend I knock up a timber frame, topped with ply (or similar) to give a solid flat base for it to lay on? Thanks.
@@SkillBuilder I think you misread my comment. I'm not have a go, I meant that should you also do the horizontal lines in the wall with that tape for belt and braces or is moisture not likely to get through it?
Great vid. Important note for anyone viewing: The Classi Seal upstand used in the video is ‘Classi Seal Plus’! Not to be confused with the ‘Classi Seal Flexible Upstand’. Classi Seal Plus is secured to backer board with tanking membrane as per video.
Thanks for noting type of Classi plus
I've bought the non Plus version, what's the best way to fix it to the backer board? It's more like a rubber strip so I don't think the liquid tanking stuff will take to it. Considering silicone or tile adhesive, or just leaving it loose and let the tile hold it to the wall??
Would you use Classi Seal Plus AND Abacus No More Leaks:
ua-cam.com/video/5L2WN5rfHKM/v-deo.htmlsi=KGVnZfqIN2O1gh1_
Or is it one or the other?
@@SuperVitz I think that whatever upstand system is installed needs to be stuck on with a waterproof material to a tanked or waterproof backerboard. If water gets through tiles (via grout or silicone failure) the water must be able to fall down backerboard, on to upstand and then channeled back to shower tray. The most secure way I know of is to use a flexible upstand that is stuck to wall with tanking membrane and stuck to tray with a bituminous tape, as per video using Classiseal Plus and tanking membrane (blue stuff). Using cement based products to secure upstand seems risky as it’s porous and could suck water down past tray. I bought the Classiseal Flexible Upstand thinking it was the Classiseal Plus. I then bought the Classiseal Plus so I could follow this video exactly. Expensive but not worth the risk I thought.
@@du1896 Both products appear to do same job. If you’re installing a new bath or shower tray then I think the Classiseal Plus with tanking membrane is more comprehensive. If you’re leak proofing an existing unit that can’t be easily removed then the Abacus might be best as it sits on top (Classiseal has built in tape that sticks to the outer sides of the bath/tray, then the top of the Classiseal is stuck to backerboard with tanking as per video).
Very interesting, but I couldn’t help noticing this demo was in an ideal situation. Most of us have to deal with an existing situation and compromise over the install. Perhaps you could address that in a follow up video……! Love the series.😎
Perfect timing for this video because this is my next job in my house!!! Is it coincidence? There are no coincidences ...
I'd pay anything to have these guys do work...Sam is in great hands!
Great video. I've fitted a number of showers and shower trays over the years, in a DIY capacity, and have experienced issues with a few down the line. Mainly because I've used the wrong materials. But from now on I think I'll be investing a little more and doing it your way.
Hi guys - I may be wrong on this, but I noticed you're using CM Seal tape in the video and not Classi Seal tape as per the description? The only reason I noticed is because just this week I've been fitting my Mira Flight shower tray and I've been following this video meticulously. Honestly, it's been fantastic and I don't think I could have done without it so thanks for that. I went ahead and purchased Classi Seal which is pretty different to the tape in the video - it's quite a thick rubber and the upstand portion only protrudes around 30/40mm above the top of the shower tray once fitted. I'm all fitted and at the membrane phase (2nd coat) and it's been quite difficult to use the Classi Seal on one of the edges that has around a 5mm gap to the wall - the tape is pretty stiff and tries to peal itself from the wall as you're applying the membrane. The tape in the video would have been perfect. Also, the tanking membrane takes ages to dry on the rubber tape itself. Anyway, just a heads up and if I've got the wrong end of the stick just ignore me 🤣
note for the future.
classi make two types of seal.
classi seal is a rubber upstand that doesn't get membrane in.
classi plus is the fibre type you see in this video.
Great job lads you guys are better than college I don't go a day without watching one of your videos I've learnt alot, keep these videos up
II Thank you, we appreciate your support, we are growing fast and hope to have another batch of videos out soon.
I kept being told while learning years ago and stand by it to this day, always by pro builders and engineers some are insane at what they do if going to do a job do right first time
Get yourself a set of the suction cups window fitters use and it will make lifting the trays so much easier as you have proper handles to hold, especially once they have been put down on the floor. Well worth the few quid they cost.
We had them in the back of the van but didn't need them on this one
I used that waterproof upstand on the shower in my current house, 7 years later and no leaks. Would definitely recommend it. 😃
Nice touch to give some to Sam on the vid! We need to make sure new generation of tradesmen are clever willing individuals. Looking forward to seeing if Sam made the cut :-)
Good luck in your new career Sam, your in safe hands with Rodger and James!!!
Great job! Water isn’t going to be an issue with work like that!
It was a pleasure meeting Sam too. I have the feeling he’ll love the building game, and just imagine if he helps Roger out with filming, it would be great!
What the fuck are u going on about?@charleswhite758
My first project (I'm training as an architect) started on site in October and I'm loving every minute of it. Had a few tricky bits relating to sewers beneath our footings but the job is flying along. I try and get down on site weekly and the enjoyment you get from seeing something you've worked on and designed for the past year progressing on a weekly basis around drawings you've toiled over is phenomenal.
do love a shower tray fitting video, proper belt and braces...makes me wonder how many bathroom fitters etc would be as thorough
Can you use this set up for sealing a bath or have you any suggestions thanks
Thanks for the tips on this video! Quick question, do we also need to use the membrane/sealant on the joints between the cement board & where we have screwed the boards to the wall?
Great video, very informative. My only question is what is the tape you used on the vertical corner and around the pipe work? Does that come with the Tanking kit? Thanks.
You both are diamonds. Fantastic to watch and very informative. God bless you 🙏.
I’ve always laid my tray on flexi quick set tile adhesive and never ever had an issue 10years later, I personally wouldn’t ever use silicone to put a tray in but like the wall and tanking lads, it’s nice to see another tradesmen doing it right, that’s what I tell customers if you want it done right you’ll pay more but it’ll last forever
Been looking to see if others like me use flex adhesive to support trays with no problems years later ! 👍
@@kedro2152 never had an issue, ever
Tile adhesive is best to bed the trays in , and classic marble trays are by far the best not sure whether you get them in England
Nice to see Robin has come back….
Yes he has grown a bit
Hi I have bought some classi seal tape for around the shower tray.
It says to thoroughly roughen the contact surface with steel wool or 120 grade sandpaper.
Would you say that means the edge of the shower tray
What's the name of the tape going up the corner of the walls? I got the waterproof tanking membrane already
Thanks in advance
Hi at 0:43 you say something about giving the chipboard a coat of what sounds like XPR, I’ve searched for this online but can’t find anything that comes close what is the stuff you painted on please ?
SBR
Just found you guys. Love the videos. Really useful seeing it all in real time + banter!
Welcome aboard!
Quality work as always if you wouldn't have it on your own house don't do it on others. 👌 the workmanship is second to none on James jobs excellent keep it up fellas .
Hi great video, love your work. So easy when it’s done right.
I have to tile a shower for a mate but the plumber installed the shower tray without any aqua strap on the tray, so there is a gap between the tray and the wall what would be the best way of tanking so I don’t get any leaks.
10:08 Why do you not cover the horizontal joints on the backing boards? Is it something you did later and is not shown on the video?
yes, sometimes we just stick together with polymer and sometimes we tape them
Great attention to detail, I'm impressed with your no nonsense approach. .... Belt & braces it really is the only way , keep up the sterling work 👍😉
Great video, our builders installed standard plasterboard around our upstairs shower and now I am planning to fit the shower tray and shower. I've done it before but is tanking with a shower waterproofing kit and using the upstand sufficient or would you suggest cutting it all out and putting backer board up? One wall was dot and dab the other way timber framed. I would rather not if I can help it. Thanks
Great job fellas, and enjoyed the chatty bit at the end🤩Cheers.
not many people get to the end of a UA-cam video, well done for sticking with it.
Hi there great video. Can I ask you a question please? If you surveyed a possible customers bathroom for a tray, how do you find out which way the joists are running etc? i am presuming for example the bathroom has a tiled floor so no chance of looking underneath .thank you
Lol to late done my first one today ...should I watch this to see how much I messed up 😄. I did tell her I'm not a builder 🤣🤣
I bet that Dulux T-shirt was expensive.
Not as much as their coats, but luckily you only need one.
Just getting a new bathroom put in. Maybe I'll look at one of those trays. Need a 700mm as not much room
When do you silicone the tray before or after the enclosure is fitted ?
Is the classi seal that they put around the shower tray the same stuff they put on the wall joints?
You’ve pretty much done what you would do using a wet room tray but it’s a normal tray. Excellent job lads. Shower area for life 😂
is it necessary to backer board the whole bathroom or just where the shower area is? Great video!
Just in the wet area. You can do the whole lot but it costs more than plasterboard
@@SkillBuilder brill! Thanks!
Are there showers trays with moulded in/built in upstands? We’ve had these in Canada for decades and they are much better than just relying on silicone or tape.
Great job Roger! Lots of shared wisdom!
What is the blue lining which you applied to the corner wall and have you a link to amazon for it. Thank you.
The links are below the video
@@SkillBuilder Yes, but I don’t think you included the blue lining tape. Correct me if I am wrong.
I didnt know these even existed, just ordered a Mira flight for my next build, cheers
Great video as usual, one question though? Don't you have to waterproof the entire enclosure?
It is always a good idea. We deal with the whole job in many of our videos
Another great and informative video guys, thank you. Pleasure to watch true craftsmen at work.
You guys definitely appear to be skilled & care about doing a good job.
Just one point, I work in an office (I'm a surveyor) & we have LOTS of laughs. This is my last & best job before retiring & I'm reluctant to go, even though I have lots of other things I want to do, including using a camera (but for wildlife).
Keep your videos coming. 👍
nice video, qq: do you need to protect the ceiling as well? I'm assuming shower how water moisture will go up?
Can't blame Sam I was the same, did my onc in civil engineering and just didn't enjoy the office work so sacked it off
How much clearance do I need either side of an alcove shower to allow for the rubber seal
looking to re-fit my bathroom sometime so it's good to get these ideas. Variety is the spice of life which is why I have 3 women on the go, only joking ha ha. Are you still doing "ask Roger" series? I have a project in mind but can't decide which way to go.
How about waterproofing the horizontal joins between the cement boards? I also wondered about all this tanking as also how about the completely open section behind the tiles where the show screen meets the wall ? There is nothing to stop the water moving out left or right beyond the tray!?. You’d love the job Ive just gone to, the tiles were coming off the wall and turns out they had tiles straight onto a plastered wall no doubt on normal plasterboard. The plaster had turned to mush and water coming through ceiling downstairs… rip out and start again job.
Was looking at Abacus due to Rogers last video with them but now won't. Wanted the elements board but its expensive so gone with the same sort of stuff but sold at Wickes instead.
I did mine with this belt and braces approach. It was nearly ten years ago and I've seen zero leaks!
Mind you, it is on a downstairs concrete floor...🤣
Hi lads was that shower tray seal you put in the corner. I can get exterior cement board in work. I think that would be ideal for a bathroom what do you think?
Would you also put a paint-on membrane onto the walls?
James if I paid for an extended holiday at my house - could you come? Happy for you to bring along your family.
Hi Roger I live over in Spain and I’ve a friend bringing me over some classi seal plus for new shower tray however I’m stuck getting the aqua seal waterproof tanking membrane solution due to cost and restrictions. Would a transparent waterproof sealant do the job? Fixing to plastered walls and concrete floors thanks Steve
I think the classi seal you guys have used in the video and the one that’s available in the market is slightly different. Has the brand updated their product?
Yes
@@SkillBuilder thanks mate for the answer. Do you still recommend it? As your video is an year old now?
"Where's James" I love it. Always makes me laugh.
Can this method be applied if walls have been plaster skimmed?
I agree with Roger, the Mira Flight range of trays are the ones I'd always use. A couple of points: if you're doing a belts and braces approach then you would have tanked all the Hardi Backer, or at least all the board joints. You should use a mesh across all the board joint too (similar to scrim); set in with tile adhesive. You may have done this at the later tiling stage. Hardi Backer sell their own tape, but I use strips of the mesh used in monocouche; this ties all the boards together.
One point I'd make to anyone doing this work is protect the tray immediately it's fixed. Walking on it as you do in the video with just the protective film is asking for trouble. Cardboard, or a dust sheet, followed by a cut piece of ply is what always do. A dropped tool, tile or even grit on your boot can result in a very costly error. I do applaud Roger for continually hammering home the importance of good practice in fitting shower trays.
We always cover the tray when we start tiling but we knew our shoes were clean.
Get a few yoga matts. Dirt cheap and stops any tool and scuff marks.
Thanks for another great video, was the backerboard glued or screwd to the wall and would you need to tape up the joints? Thanks
Hi I'm new to this sort of work but.
Can u plaster over the ranking blue rubber
Love the dulux T shirt...!
What's the blue paper that you put up verticaly over the Waterproof tanking membrane?
Sorry if I missed it in a different episode but are those floor tiles that look like laminate or some type of water resistant laminate flooring?
Unfortunately we didn’t manage to get any footage of it going down. It’s actually karndean, they are individual vinyl planks laid into adhesive.
Karndean
Lucky lad having James as his mentor….!
A good question for you on waterproofing the shower in this video. We are not aiming to use tiles, but will be using a "splashwall laminate" from B&Q. Would that go behind the tray or over the top like ceramic tiles?
Would you recommend using skrim tape and quick set cement on the joints of the cement board before tanking? Cheers
You can buy waterproof tape but a waterproof tile adhesive is good. I like to gun some polymer in the joints before fixing the next board
Question, why have floor fitted before shower tray? Should it not be shower tray then floor, and are those floor panels water resistant?
Is this a new Classi Seal? It looks more fabric like, totally different to the one I've just picked up. Keep up the great work on the videos. Fantastic
That's what I was wondering. The one I've just got is like rubber so I can't bond it to the walls with the liquid tanking
@@antonythegreek How did you bond the Classi Seal in the end? I'm looking at getting using the same product on my install.
@@aidanroyce7194 I found the correct version of Classi Seal. Worked a treat with the liquid tanking
@@aidanroyce7194 just checked for you...the rubber type is Classi Seal original and the one that works with the tanking membrane is Classi Seal plus 👍🏻
beautiful job guys.
Nice video, good luck to the new lad👍👍
I really need this doing, I wonder how much it costs
No one will really be able to tell you without looking at your job site area...you can however start pricing the parts you need yourself, like the tray, screen, tiles and plumbing fixtures for the actual shower. There is a big range of prices and quality, and that's before you've made any aesthetic decisions. Also don't be shy to ask questions in shops and plumbers merchants etc, as there are often tradesmen around who can help as well as the staff, as thing like compatability between screen and tray can be important. Good Luck. :)
@@thesunreport thank you for the reply I have the tray etc I just need the sealing doing and then install. But thanks again
@@karens138 Sounds like you're half-way to doing it yourself...don't stop now!! :D
Quick question Roger,
Did the shower tray you installed have a lip around the edges of the tray? If so will the tiles go over the lip to tile down to the tray? Thanks.
No upstand. They are not so common in the U.K
What's the name of the tape going up the corner of the walls? it is not the same tape used around the tray (that is the classi seal). I cant find it on your links, so what is the tape in the corner called?
What is the sealing strip being applied in this video? Roger says ‘classi seal’ but the classi seal I’ve had is thick rubber. This appears to be a lighter fabric?
This was the old style Classi Seal, they changed it for some reason.
just installed a shower tray in my house today... (yes i know no bathroom over christmas... wonderfull) always use classi seals on any bath or shower tray install. never used that aquaseal stuff. does it come with the tape you put up the wall? or is that an extra that ya have to buy also? the last bathroom got ripped out due to a leak in the corner also so id rather that doesnt happen again
Are we waterproofing cement board or are we waterproofing the corners?
Would Roger or James recommend that OB1 or CT1 adhesive to help adhere a ceramic toilet to concrete floor, or what ratio of concrete mix would be best. Appreciate your advice, great work there as usual. 👍👏
Hi Kevin,
Yes, I’d say that any of the polymer adhesives would be suitable to adhere the toilet to a concrete floor. Just make sure both surfaces are dust free and the toilet is levelled with wedges to because if it’s out of levels and the polymer adhesive dries it will be an absolute pains to get it up again.
Yes always stick it down with polymer or silicone. Years ago we used to bed them on a dollop of mortar but the pan often cracked. You can always remove one that has been stuck down. I cut the screws and just put them in with a bit of silicone so they are dummy screws. It would be good if they stopped putting the holes in.
What is the product used in the corner??? It is not the classi seal, so what is it?
How do you get the waste in if you can't get under the new floor?
Hi please reply…I am fitting a shower tray and you have recommended 2 sealing tapes ..this one and then the other tape that goes over the tray and up the wall. Which one is the better??? Please reply!))🙏
The Classi Seal is easier to fit than the No More Leaks but they both work well
@@SkillBuilder wow thank you for replying!!!)))
Where is the aquaseal tanking used at, is it painted onto the backer boards before tiling or sticking on the 8x4 shower wall sheets?
Do you put another strip on top of the shower tray and against the wall (like your bath install) or is the first strip (side of the tray) enough?
This is a Classiseal system and there is not strip on top of the tray. The way it is shown here is to stick the seal to the back sides of the tray and run it up the wall. The corner needs to be puckered up not stretched so the tape goes back against the wall. The tiling then goes over the tape and you seal with silicone in the normal way/
@@SkillBuilder thanks, which is better, this, or top strip instead like no more leaks style?
What is the name of the blue adhesive that you brush on the wall before sticking the tape to the wall
Pro Seal
Great video's and very helpful for my renovations and extension build over last couple of years. My timber frame extension spec includes insulated plasterboard for the external walls and one corner will have a shower. What would you advise as best prep to the IP for tiling? I'm considering fixing either 6mm tile backer board or Abacus Elements board on top of the IP as based on your videos tanking directly over the plasterboard is not recommended. Any advise would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Belt n braces and fancy tape and paint 👌🏼🧱👍🏼
Classi seal adhered to tray edge-cement boards over seal-silicone shower tray around edge of boards-paint all corners and joints in cement board with mapei blue tank paint -tile and seal grout
Last forever 😊
That is my kind of job.
I'm about to fit a Mira flight tray in my house, was actually considering filling the backside of the tray with 2 part epoxy resin so its perfectly flat. My tray will need to be raised, instead of fitting legs directly to the tray, I'm going to have the tray on 18+mm ply then attach the legs to that, probably twice the number of legs recommended.
The Mira Flight is fine, no need to fill in the back but, by all means put it on ply if you prefer it
I have a leak UNDER a tray - I have removed the screen, but any advice on how to lift the tray and get at the outflow to mend the leak would be much appreciated.
Personally I would go up through the ceiling. Drill a small hole and look with a camera first.
@@SkillBuilder May thanks. Will do.
Looks better than the Abacus no more leaks.
Very Good, wonderful!! Well done!!! Thanks
Where can you buy the sealing tape you used in the corner?
Abacus Bathrooms. Rubber Duck Bathrooms
Good luck to the young lad starting out in the building trade do it right and once ! Should had started younger myself when keen and flexible instead time in Mechanics.
I use a bead of silicone behind the tray instead of the tape.
Over the years I've done over 200 trays and never had any issue.
DIY'er looking to install a mira flight tray but it's on a solid concrete floor so needs to be raised to accommodate the waste. Are they sturdy enough on the raised legs, or would you recommend I knock up a timber frame, topped with ply (or similar) to give a solid flat base for it to lay on? Thanks.
The legs are fine. You can order a set.
Good news, thanks!
Won’t that gert big door handle smash the shower screen?
You don't need that tape around the horizontal slots in the wall?
If you want to do the job properly you do it properly and people who want to cut corners will be followed by the people who do it properly.
@@SkillBuilder I think you misread my comment. I'm not have a go, I meant that should you also do the horizontal lines in the wall with that tape for belt and braces or is moisture not likely to get through it?