I have a 2007 LA 145 with a push pin and it appears to be bent. I have issues with the power and the suction on my fuel pump. Gonna try and get a new push rod. Thanks man, me not knowing what the technical term is for everything, made it hard to find the right video.
@@ArniAtlason I managed to locate and purchase the replacement push rods, aluminum for intake and the other steel. Is the intake always at the bottom? That is where I found my broken piece of the rod. I will see if I can find more information on identifying the intake.
@@ArniAtlason Thank you for the help. This is my first experience with a ride mower so I guess I am being too cautious. 🙂 Hopefully I can get this fixed today. I will let you know how it goes.
Excellent video! I do have a question. Tons of vids out there showing the valve adjustment. You seemed to be tightening both the nut and lock screw in tandem? My problem was the infamous cam shaft replacement. But since the repair Im having power issues when cutting. I recheck the valves and they're loose again. Can you explain a little about the locknut procedure you're using? I suspect i haven't seated the rods correctly agaisnt the lifter. Is there a center in the lifter for seating the rods?
Well I don't use special method. I have the locknut on the screw little tight when I adjust it and when I have the clearance I want then I really tight it up. In this video It is first time I do the valve clearance on the tractor so I took my time. What you are telling me is the nut is loosen up on the adjustment screw, My question is do you have the torq spec on the nut? If that is not the case then I would look the nut in the middle of the rocker is that one loosening up? Okay if everything is tight but valve clearance is getting to much after while the I would say you are eating up the cam. But I'm just guessing I would need more info to help. REgards Arni
Thanks for the response. Just the intake valve is suspect. when i put it all back together I had the engine on its backside so installing the rods was super easy. The engine is running well but I'm dragging in action when blades and trans are engaged. I'm going to adjust the valves again today along with the new (CVT) drive belt. Its just your technique seems much more solid than others instructions. it seems to me what you're doing there leaves no room for error. its a work in progress but I'm ready to move on. Thanks again! @@ArniAtlason
Hi ! I have now changed the rod push 4 times on Husqvarna rider B&S engine. It breaks in 2 pieces exactly where it goes through the plastic in the plate. Why ?? It seems like it worn out.
4 push rods is alot. For how long time does each one last? So wwhat I have found in my tractor if I dont adjust valve clearance 2 times in my summer season then it will break the push rod. Clearence will be to great so the lifter on the camshaft goes to high and gets stuck there so valve gets stuck open then piston will push on the valve and rod will be Bent or boken. Maybe that is not your case. This is common issue in John Deere. Tell me what you think.
@@ArniAtlason It doesn't last long, max 6 months. I have tried adjusting the valve spacing as you do in the video, will have to see if it works better. Maybe I adjusted before, with too much clearance. I can just see that it breaks every time, where it goes through the plate with the black plastic square. And must be because it rotates and is worn out by the black plastic square.
Thanks for the video, this looks like the same issue I am having. The new intake rod won't move forward and backwards. Would you mind explaining how you do the light tapping to bring the lifter down? What tools do you use?
Hi Johnnie, So I turn the engine until the exhaust rod is in the highest position. Then I know the cam on the camshaft for intake rod is in the lowest position. I did use 3/8 extension for socket (you can use half inch also) Then I tap on the extension until the under lift goes down and get loosen. Most reason for this to happen is too much valve clearance and the lift gets to high and gets stuck.
I take the spark plug out the I put the screwdriver in the hole where the spark plug was. I push the screwdriver in there until it will stop (not with force) Then I will hold the screwdriver and turn the engine, Screwdriver goes up or down. When the screwdriver comes up and then down you have the piston in the highest position. I hope this helps. Ask more than less
Thank you certainly does I saw another video that says to decompress the spring one at a time completely and adjust both that way. Is that a quicker way or would you recommend your way?
@@dasa5023 Yes that is the quicker way to adjust the valves, takes little more time to find where they are both loose. But I think if you do it that you will be quicker over all. Reason didn't do it is I'm used to do it like this on a bigger engines.
@@ArniAtlasonso the key is to not tighten them down until the adjustment is made so you can feel for when they are loose I don’t mean the set screw I mean the main screw
@@dasa5023 Yes that is the key. This is all about the feeling (what is tight and what is not) When you tight the nut the adjustment will go slightly off. It took me little more time for me to get the feeling for it. that is why I took my time to practice and get the feeling.
I had bent intake rod too. Just replaced and still won’t start. Tried with carb off and starter fluid, no start. Got spark, new head gasket, valves adjusted. Is this a camshaft issue? The intake rod moves when spinning engine I believe
Now you have to think about the compression in the cylinder. So take the spark plug out and cover that hole with your finger and turn the engine. You should feel the pressur in cylinder try to push you finger away. I do this if I dont have a tool to measure the compression. What be wrong. Bent push rod tells me that piston did hit the valve and did bent it. Let me know what you find. We can figure it out together.
Now we have to dig deeper. So we have some compression. you sprayed start spray into the intake manifold and no puff. HMMM either the start spray cannot go into the cylinder or you don't have spark. If you have some compression in the cylinder and a spark the engine should try to run. Maybe not running but trying, Start spray is highly flammable and should burn with very little spark. You got my attention with this problem.
@@ArniAtlason so I just rechecked the compression and it’s hissing through somewhere else with air blowing through the open spark plug initially but I was wrong thinking there was compression. There is a bump on the intake so it seems camshaft is ok. I’m thinking valve or piston ring. The piston ever so slightly had wobble but seemed pretty tight
You should have replaced the intake PR with an Exhaust PR as it is steel and exactly the same size.When one valve is fully open the other is fully closed no need to find TDC....
Omg, it's painful just watching you try to set the valves. What did you do to stop it happening again? What caused it to happen in the first place? This is a waste of time for anyone trying to learn anything.
I do the valve clearance more often 2 times over the summer. Most of the time this will happen when the valve clearance is to much and the lift will get stuck. Thank you for your comment.
THANK YOU! After a whole summer of diagnosing my JD, and attempting to fix it - the intake push rod was the issue!
YOU SAVED MY LIFE. Couldn't get the damn thing out.
Thank you so much for your comment. I don't have words for it but it did put a big smile on my face. Thank you.
Thank you so much. for this video it was so helpful. God bless you. Save me a lot of money. 🙏🏼 thank you.
Thank you, Comment like yours helps me a lot
@@ArniAtlason 🙏🏼
I have a 2007 LA 145 with a push pin and it appears to be bent. I have issues with the power and the suction on my fuel pump. Gonna try and get a new push rod. Thanks man, me not knowing what the technical term is for everything, made it hard to find the right video.
It turns out to your advantage. Nice job.
Thank you, I really appreciate you comment.
This is exactly what happened to my mower. One push rod is broken and the other is bent. I will try to repair it myself. Thank you.
I don't know everything but I know enough and still learning. Shoot me a line if you have a question.
@@ArniAtlason I managed to locate and purchase the replacement push rods, aluminum for intake and the other steel. Is the intake always at the bottom? That is where I found my broken piece of the rod. I will see if I can find more information on identifying the intake.
Hi Grimson, on these engines yes it is always on the bottom.
@@ArniAtlason Thank you for the help. This is my first experience with a ride mower so I guess I am being too cautious. 🙂 Hopefully I can get this fixed today. I will let you know how it goes.
Great video
Thank you so much.😀
Excellent video!
I do have a question. Tons of vids out there showing the valve adjustment. You seemed to be tightening both the nut and lock screw in tandem?
My problem was the infamous cam shaft replacement. But since the repair Im having power issues when cutting. I recheck the valves and they're loose again.
Can you explain a little about the locknut procedure you're using?
I suspect i haven't seated the rods correctly agaisnt the lifter. Is there a center in the lifter for seating the rods?
Well I don't use special method. I have the locknut on the screw little tight when I adjust it and when I have the clearance I want then I really tight it up. In this video It is first time I do the valve clearance on the tractor so I took my time. What you are telling me is the nut is loosen up on the adjustment screw, My question is do you have the torq spec on the nut? If that is not the case then I would look the nut in the middle of the rocker is that one loosening up? Okay if everything is tight but valve clearance is getting to much after while the I would say you are eating up the cam. But I'm just guessing I would need more info to help.
REgards
Arni
Thanks for the response. Just the intake valve is suspect. when i put it all back together I had the engine on its backside so installing the rods was super easy. The engine is running well but I'm dragging in action when blades and trans are engaged.
I'm going to adjust the valves again today along with the new (CVT) drive belt.
Its just your technique seems much more solid than others instructions. it seems to me what you're doing there leaves no room for error.
its a work in progress but I'm ready to move on.
Thanks again!
@@ArniAtlason
Hi ! I have now changed the rod push 4 times on Husqvarna rider B&S engine. It breaks in 2 pieces exactly where it goes through the plastic in the plate. Why ?? It seems like it worn out.
4 push rods is alot. For how long time does each one last? So wwhat I have found in my tractor if I dont adjust valve clearance 2 times in my summer season then it will break the push rod. Clearence will be to great so the lifter on the camshaft goes to high and gets stuck there so valve gets stuck open then piston will push on the valve and rod will be Bent or boken. Maybe that is not your case. This is common issue in John Deere. Tell me what you think.
@@ArniAtlason It doesn't last long, max 6 months. I have tried adjusting the valve spacing as you do in the video, will have to see if it works better. Maybe I adjusted before, with too much clearance. I can just see that it breaks every time, where it goes through the plate with the black plastic square. And must be because it rotates and is worn out by the black plastic square.
thanks this helped me!
Glad it helped!😀
Thanks for the video, this looks like the same issue I am having. The new intake rod won't move forward and backwards. Would you mind explaining how you do the light tapping to bring the lifter down? What tools do you use?
Hi Johnnie, So I turn the engine until the exhaust rod is in the highest position. Then I know the cam on the camshaft for intake rod is in the lowest position. I did use 3/8 extension for socket (you can use half inch also) Then I tap on the extension until the under lift goes down and get loosen. Most reason for this to happen is too much valve clearance and the lift gets to high and gets stuck.
When you put the screw driver on top of the cylinder how are you doing that?
I take the spark plug out the I put the screwdriver in the hole where the spark plug was. I push the screwdriver in there until it will stop (not with force) Then I will hold the screwdriver and turn the engine, Screwdriver goes up or down. When the screwdriver comes up and then down you have the piston in the highest position. I hope this helps. Ask more than less
Thank you certainly does I saw another video that says to decompress the spring one at a time completely and adjust both that way. Is that a quicker way or would you recommend your way?
@@dasa5023 Yes that is the quicker way to adjust the valves, takes little more time to find where they are both loose. But I think if you do it that you will be quicker over all. Reason didn't do it is I'm used to do it like this on a bigger engines.
@@ArniAtlasonso the key is to not tighten them down until the adjustment is made so you can feel for when they are loose I don’t mean the set screw I mean the main screw
@@dasa5023 Yes that is the key. This is all about the feeling (what is tight and what is not) When you tight the nut the adjustment will go slightly off. It took me little more time for me to get the feeling for it. that is why I took my time to practice and get the feeling.
I had bent intake rod too. Just replaced and still won’t start. Tried with carb off and starter fluid, no start. Got spark, new head gasket, valves adjusted. Is this a camshaft issue? The intake rod moves when spinning engine I believe
Now you have to think about the compression in the cylinder. So take the spark plug out and cover that hole with your finger and turn the engine. You should feel the pressur in cylinder try to push you finger away. I do this if I dont have a tool to measure the compression. What be wrong. Bent push rod tells me that piston did hit the valve and did bent it. Let me know what you find. We can figure it out together.
@@ArniAtlason yes I have done this and it does blow air out
Now we have to dig deeper. So we have some compression. you sprayed start spray into the intake manifold and no puff. HMMM either the start spray cannot go into the cylinder or you don't have spark. If you have some compression in the cylinder and a spark the engine should try to run. Maybe not running but trying, Start spray is highly flammable and should burn with very little spark. You got my attention with this problem.
Timing issue would behave in different way.
@@ArniAtlason so I just rechecked the compression and it’s hissing through somewhere else with air blowing through the open spark plug initially but I was wrong thinking there was compression. There is a bump on the intake so it seems camshaft is ok. I’m thinking valve or piston ring. The piston ever so slightly had wobble but seemed pretty tight
You should have replaced the intake PR with an Exhaust PR as it is steel and exactly the same size.When one valve is fully open the other is fully closed no need to find TDC....
That is good point. Thank you.
You didn’t have to unbolt that good they just pull off
I agree, I found it out later.😀
Omg, it's painful just watching you try to set the valves. What did you do to stop it happening again? What caused it to happen in the first place? This is a waste of time for anyone trying to learn anything.
I do the valve clearance more often 2 times over the summer. Most of the time this will happen when the valve clearance is to much and the lift will get stuck.
Thank you for your comment.
It's not this hard to set the valve lash. Use two hands to hold the Allen screw and the lock nut to adjust
you are correct I can only be better
Music sucks ruined this video
Sorry
Just mute it if you don’t like it. It’s an informative video and music is just an opinion preference. Unnecessary comment