How to Diagnose Poor Running Briggs and Stratton Intek Twin Cylinder Engine
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- Опубліковано 28 вер 2024
- How to diagnose a poor running Briggs and Stratton Intek Twin Cylinder engine.
How to diagnose a poor running twin cylinder engine.
Briggs and Stratton Intek Engine. Poor Running Condition.
Craftsman Tractor running poorly.
Briggs and Stratton Valve Guide issue.
business inquiries www.johnsonssm...
My husq was running the same way , we played the drum roll when taking the cover off and sure enough 1 rod bent other one is missing . Thankyou you i can go buy a new mower now .
push rod bends because the guide comes up and the rocker hits it...weakest link is the rod so it bends....i usually fix this by knocking the guide back down and peening the metal around it to tighten the grip....and a new pushrod....never had one come back yet
Part where you showed the model was super handy, can actually get the parts manual now.
Good diagnosis, hope you show changing the head assy. and push rod for folks. Thanks for a great video.
I will in the future but this was a case of not repairing and so I did not get a chance to perform the repair. It will be a good video when it comes up.
Great this is exactly why I save old engines for parts
Man you do so well with one hand! I've got 2 and you're Infront of me. You are an inspiration mate!!! Great video.
Thank you for watching and the kind comment.
Nice video, poor design, weak, the weakest link of the chain will break. Briggs has made a lot of good engines over the years, this is an engineering flaw and us mechanics deal with the issues that come forth , meanwhile the world still spinning. Keep up the good work. (I like the Tecumsehs also).
So I have a Briggs, single cylinder, 18 hp, Intek that makes kind of the same clunking sound, yet, it runs great. This has just started this year; the mower is a 2004 model. Any ideas? thanks, enjoy your videos; keep them coming!
If it was a single cylinder engine and this happened. The engine would not run. You may have other issues and I would need to hear it up close to give you pointers. If it’s running and cutting grass ok? I would just make a point of keeping the oil checked and at the correct level and change oil at least once a season.
@@JohnsonsSmallEngines Yep, runs and cuts great. It is 18 years old and we cut 3 acres with it every week. I did replace the governor a few years ago, but, other than that; it's been a good mower. Thanks for your help!
What would make the intake filter be satiated with oil? Oil and dirt all over the place. I believe the sump gasket and the shaft seal may be leaking, but would that have oil raise over/ cover the heads as well as into the intake??
Most of the time you when you get oil in the air filter, it will be due to; you have too much oil in the engine, check the engine oil and if it is to high lower it. I also have seen oil in the air filter if you have a blown head gasket.
@@JohnsonsSmallEngines thanks for the reply. Picked up the mower for free. Was basically dripping oil pushing it on to the trailer. Check dip stick, was barely registering. Still spins, not seized. Bought a gasket for it. May just change the head gaskets to while i have the motor out.
The person who owned it before you may have overfilled it and blew the oil pan gasket in the process. Hence now there is no oil in the engine. I have also found loose oil filters that will seep oil and it looks like the oil pan gasket is leaking so check oil filter first. I would also suggest before you start taking the engine apart to use a degreaser and clean it first. Put oil back in and confirm where the oil is coming from.
@@JohnsonsSmallEngines lady talked about how it would get too hot and the PTO wouldn’t go up…. When I took the cover off the engine. The top part of the heads were covered in oily grass too. Everywhere was…. Getting more cans of degreaser and doing the tops of head and carburetor today cleaned up.
That’s not good. Hmmm maybe top crank seal leaking too. Just keep degreasing it to find out where it is coming from. Let me know in the future how you make out!
? I have a 22hp Intek twin valve John Deere L120. the left OHV valve cover gets hot. The other side does not. only gets warm. Is that an issue? Seems to run fine otherwise.
Can't say what is going on without being in front of the engine to diagnose but I would say you most likely you have a cylinder that is not working as it should.
Does this do any internal damage to the engine when it happens?
Does anyone know...does peening the valve guides work? Have the exact same issue on my 445677 engine? I'm rebuilding my engine and wonder if I should peen them or try to find some used heads. Not gonna pay for new heads.
I have peened them before and it will work but may not last forever . If done properly, it should last for a long time.
I'd give it a go. What could happen... It'll do it again.? Not a biggie.
I would also try roughening up the outside of the guide and if you have a quality hi temp epoxy, put that on as well. Should be a tight fit and then "stake" it around the edge.
I go to the Briggs and Stratton website type in my model number and it doesn't exist. I have that exact tractor. Amazon was an absolute joke too. I ordered my parts from Sears.
It's a damn shame you had to preface your video talking about your hand. That isn't anyone's business, and it doesn't change your ability to work on engines. Subscribed. Great video.
Thank you for understanding but to many negative comments made me do that. Thank you for supporting the channel!
Super interesting problem, I’d heard of it but never seen it before. Great video!
Hi Thomas, thanks and thank you for watching and commenting. Please give this video a like to help the channel. it would be greatly appreciated.
It seems that it is always the exhaust and that is because it gets so damm hot compared to the intake. To repair and clean the head, remove it. Pay close attention to the airway opening through the head that eposes the valve guide casting areas. The complete head and especially the exhaust guide casting need to be clean! Clean it like you want to eat off of it. I can’t say it enough CLEAN IT LIKE YOU MEAN IT! Peening or staking the areas around the guide is one of the fixes but should include installing a threaded set screw through the exhaust casting in the airway tunnel. Plenty of vids in how to do this.
Ever see a v-twin Brigs that the pistons don’t move, but the valves do??? 😢😢😢
Yep, it has blown up. Broken connecting rods. The cam that at moves the valves works off of a gear that works with the gear on the crankshaft. The valves will still move when pistons do not.
@@JohnsonsSmallEngines wow, both connecting rods would snap? What would make it do that? Would it be repairable? Man, I bet this thing would have made a crazy bang when it went …
If you are running on only one cylinder does it always make that knocking sound?
....sure wish that you were my neighbor.
:)
Pull it, clean it, tap it back in with red thread lock and neural the head around the guide. Just a thought. Thanks for the video.
I have an 18.5 v craftsman that has this exact thing happen to both cylinders.
Love your video on Intek V Twin B&S. Mine runs fine on one cylinder with the other spark plug wire offbut when you attach the that wire back it makes the engine run rough and surge. I do get spark from both sides. Both plugs have been tested good. Do you have any suggestions for me?
Have you had mice issues? If no, It sounds like you may have leaking intake gaskets (there have been issues with the gaskets leaking). OR you may have a carburetor issue (it may need to be cleaned). I would suggest new intake gaskets , if that doesn’t work then rebuild carburetor. That being said, It is very hard to try and help when I cannot be there to hear it and look into what it may be so this is just a guess.
Have u took the valve covers off to see if any of ur push rods are bent?
My early 2000s Intek 22 Hp runs on 1 cylinder , the 2nd cyl backfires , if i choke it , that 2nd cylinder runs , ive cleaned the carb , adjusted valves , new spark plugs and new diaphram fuel pump so far. Seems like a fuel issue ?
Without seeing and hearing how your engine sounds it is almost impossible to diagnose. How many hours is on it? Knowing that if you choke it more and its ok, it sounds like fuel and you are correct to assume that as I am also thinking that. If the side that is not working is possible sucking air around the intake gasket? If you have a plastic intake manifold? I do know Briggs had issues with the plastic intakes would warp where they bolt to the head assembles and they came out with a very nice gasket to help. The part is#594209. I think it comes as a set of two. Popping and missing can also be valves and I know you said that you adjusted the valves. Did you check compression? I would also try rebuilding the carburetor again and if you can find a ultrasonic cleaner to put in in for 35 minutes that will help. Check to make sure you do not have any open or wires on the side that is popping that may be grounding the coil or any wires. I would also put two inline ignition testers on both spark plugs to see if when you throttle up you may sporadically loose the coil. Though normally that is not the case.
Im wrenching on it now. Mine is running rough, and rich at full throttle. It happened suddenly while I was mowing. I tried the gasket behind the throttle plate first, of which two holes were plugged. I fixed that with no change. This is next. Great video!!
If the exhaust valve guide is hammered in flush with the surface, would that be a problem? Thinking it’s only a problem if the guide backs out preventing the spring from fully compressing.
I cannot answer that correctly as I never ran a twin Briggs that way. I would assume it would interfere with airflow/exhaust. I guess try it and time will tell.
Great video. Is valve guide peening similar to valve seat peening?
Hi Mike Yes same as valve seat.
@@JohnsonsSmallEngines Thanks Brad!
Dude, right on the money. My customer generates money from his Hydro Tek Pressure Washer, I will only allow him to buy a new engine at this point. Thanks for your expertise.
I’m glad it was helpful! Thank you for the kind comment
So on one side of my B&S intek the steel rod was bent and out or place like your was… I got to looking and the steel one is bent but still in place… could that be causing my engine to not want to idle down correctly?
I’m still getting an occasional back fire and popping.. I have replace the steel pushrod on both sides… but not the aluminum ones…. If I replace the aluminum ones will just fix the problem that I’m still having?
If your intake rods are bent, replace them. I do not know the history of your engine and cannot say either way.
1200 hours!!! Shouldn’t you thank that machine for it’s service and buy another one?
Even one better, the customer said exactly that and gave me the machine. I put the valve guide back into position, peened the valve guide and it runs great. I use it as a loaner when I have customers machines in for repairs. It now has over 1300 hrs :)
@@JohnsonsSmallEngines that’s awesome! Well done! 👍👍👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
What would cause a clicking sound when the valves are moving? This clicking sound that I hear is not normal on my mowor
Impossible to tell you what your clicking sound is without actually being there in front of your machine. If the engine is running OK and you are just now hearing the noise? It may be a simple valve adjustment. That is where I would start. I do not have a video on adjusting the valves on the twin cylinder but I’m sure somebody has one out there to be able to help adjust your valves.
@JohnsonsSmallEngines thanks...I know how to adjust valves...I'm actually trying to help a neighbor...I never heard this clicking on a mower before....I had valve cover off and was turning flywheel by hand observing the movement of the valves and I hear all kinds of clicking...almost like something is going on with the crank gear or cam gears
The bent pushrod was most likely the result of the guide walking out, the valve couldn't open all the way and the camshaft kept pushing the tappet and pushrod. Something had to give and it was the pushrod bending, with the pushrod bent when the cam lobe started dropping the extra clearance allowed it to drop out from the rocker arm.
Took the words out of my mouth.
lets face it briggs is building junk now they dont have the quality they use to there intek motor is a joke now
Awesome educational vid. Thx
Thank you for watching and the kind comment!
I had a bent intake pushrod, but I thought my valve guides looked ok. I put in a new pushrod and now it runs well, UNTIL it heats up. Then I get nothing from that cylinder. Anyone have any thoughts on the matter?
Check your spark when it gets hot?? Coil may be failing. The question is how did the first push rod bend??. If your guide is ok, you may have a valve seat walking. Push rods don’t just bend. Check rocker stud to make sure it’s tight.
@@JohnsonsSmallEngines Thank you so much for your reply. I'll look into that.
You called it, I'm not getting spark. I assumed it had/has something to do with the fact that I took the head off and put in a new pushrod. The valve guides look fine. I had not checked the seats. The intake rod has not re-bent yet, but does that mean it's going to again sometime soon?
I’m glad you found the issue. I cannot answer your question without seeing the engine. Repair the ignition issue and go from there.
thanks for the info. I had to take my carb off to get to it.
Imam glad it was helpful! Thank you for watching:)
👍🏾