Thanks Brad for another great video. I learn something new from you every time and see you got a new degree wheel. Bet it was a bittersweet moment. Can’t thank you enough for sharing your expertise! Cheers!
in the desmoquattros, usually the inlet cams were 4 to 8 degrees retarded, and the exhausts not so much. so to get it to the factory spec you could do this. if you set the squish, which involves moving the head closer to the piston crown, you'll also retard the cams a couple of degrees as a general rule, so best to reset the timing after that too. but, overall there is just plain better timing to use though, which is to advance the inlet cams 10 to 12 degrees and retard the exhaust cams 5 or so degrees from the spec. which means you could be moving (advancing) the vertical inlet cam (always the least accurate) 20 degrees at times. so it depends if you're a "happy with the way it came", or you're a "factory knows best" or you're a "lets make it as good as we can" kind of person. i'm the latter.
Thanks again for making these videos and sharing your many years of experience.
Thanks Brad for another great video. I learn something new from you every time and see you got a new degree wheel. Bet it was a bittersweet moment. Can’t thank you enough for sharing your expertise! Cheers!
i just had to find one with the same numbering pattern as the crane one. i have a vee two one, but the numbering is just bizarre.
Thanks so much for this. I'm gearing up to do this for my mono build. I'm going to watch this a few times to go through the maths calculator section😅
Hello!
It's a shame that Ducati doesn't install a roller with automatic timing belt tensioning.
Spot on, but it assumes that viewers have some basic knowledge of whats going on
Are offset keys still available at Ducati? I thought no
no. long gone.
Other than a rebuild, would this be required?
in the desmoquattros, usually the inlet cams were 4 to 8 degrees retarded, and the exhausts not so much. so to get it to the factory spec you could do this.
if you set the squish, which involves moving the head closer to the piston crown, you'll also retard the cams a couple of degrees as a general rule, so best to reset the timing after that too.
but, overall there is just plain better timing to use though, which is to advance the inlet cams 10 to 12 degrees and retard the exhaust cams 5 or so degrees from the spec. which means you could be moving (advancing) the vertical inlet cam (always the least accurate) 20 degrees at times.
so it depends if you're a "happy with the way it came", or you're a "factory knows best" or you're a "lets make it as good as we can" kind of person. i'm the latter.
I have only just come across your videos, I will be watching all if them... fantastic.