Hi Brad, this has been a great resource whilst doing my 749 for the first time though I haven't mastered keeping the collets same way up and cant see enough wear marking on them to tell even though engine has done 21K. Anyway thanks for sharing; the best Ducati tech walk through IMO :)
well, it's a conversation about whether or not a customer is prepared to pay to pull the heads mostly. if the closers are kept tight it's not going to impact the way it runs too much, until it gets really bad. i've seen really, really bad become just fine once the closers are tightened down. as long as the valve stem seals are holding the oil in.
@@bradthebikeboyyes some money is involved when it comes to guides..in my experience, really worn guides makes clerance adjustement impossible as the valve is not perfecly seated, ymmv
Do the clearances tend to increase overtime on the ducatis? Or is it because you're bringing them down to your preferred clearances that you're puting bigger shims in this time? On bucket-over-shim valves, they get tighter as the seat of the valve wears. Is thas not the case for this kind of valve train? Just curious
with the quality of metallurgy these days, things tend to not move very much. you'll find lots of japanese valve spring engines going 100,000km without a shim change. on the ducati engines, the wire collets deform and settle from new so the closing clearances open, but once that process stops they tend to stay much the same. especially if the clearances are tightened and the collets aren't getting beating around. the opening clearances also tend to be fairly consistant. some of the 1100 series engines would lose their exhaust opening clearance before the first check, but once adjusted were fine going forward. lots of 4v engines go many checks without adjustment, even at the tight specs i use. 2v i tend to adjust more closers to keep them right on 0 clearance, but only because it's easy.
You make this look so easy. Perhaps my hands are huge, but there’s no way in hell I’m getting half rings in or out with my finger tips. I use a little pick with a dab of grease to hold the half ring. I’ve used your clearance specs for years, but I’ll be damned if I don’t always end up stuck between sizes. Ending up with .025mm or .03mm closing clearance and the next size down leaves me with .08mm.
it's an acquired skill for sure, and Homer fingers certainly don't help at all. some are easier than others - the testa are the worst i'd say. you just rub the shims down. taking a bit off a too tight shim is easy.
It's such a pleasure having everything in focus. Thank you for your investment in time and energy to share with us internet strangers.
Makes me grateful to own an agricultural 900SS. So much simpler to work on. Thanks for the vid.
Hi Brad, this has been a great resource whilst doing my 749 for the first time though I haven't mastered keeping the collets same way up and cant see enough wear marking on them to tell even though engine has done 21K. Anyway thanks for sharing; the best Ducati tech walk through IMO :)
get some generic glasses from the chemist with the stronger lenses. +3 are great for helping to see things.
Thanks for the very educational video. I've been looking at 749's lately as the prices are almost now in my range. Cheers
Enjoyed the video,Brad. I love my 2 valve Moto Guzzi. You do really nice work. RIDE SAFE OUT THERE!
Nice, I'll be doing this on my 998 this winter.
I like the comment about the valve guides. Any video planned on the subject? Lot's to say in this department
well, it's a conversation about whether or not a customer is prepared to pay to pull the heads mostly. if the closers are kept tight it's not going to impact the way it runs too much, until it gets really bad. i've seen really, really bad become just fine once the closers are tightened down. as long as the valve stem seals are holding the oil in.
@@bradthebikeboyyes some money is involved when it comes to guides..in my experience, really worn guides makes clerance adjustement impossible as the valve is not perfecly seated, ymmv
Do the clearances tend to increase overtime on the ducatis? Or is it because you're bringing them down to your preferred clearances that you're puting bigger shims in this time? On bucket-over-shim valves, they get tighter as the seat of the valve wears. Is thas not the case for this kind of valve train? Just curious
with the quality of metallurgy these days, things tend to not move very much. you'll find lots of japanese valve spring engines going 100,000km without a shim change. on the ducati engines, the wire collets deform and settle from new so the closing clearances open, but once that process stops they tend to stay much the same. especially if the clearances are tightened and the collets aren't getting beating around. the opening clearances also tend to be fairly consistant. some of the 1100 series engines would lose their exhaust opening clearance before the first check, but once adjusted were fine going forward. lots of 4v engines go many checks without adjustment, even at the tight specs i use. 2v i tend to adjust more closers to keep them right on 0 clearance, but only because it's easy.
You make this look so easy. Perhaps my hands are huge, but there’s no way in hell I’m getting half rings in or out with my finger tips. I use a little pick with a dab of grease to hold the half ring.
I’ve used your clearance specs for years, but I’ll be damned if I don’t always end up stuck between sizes. Ending up with .025mm or .03mm closing clearance and the next size down leaves me with .08mm.
it's an acquired skill for sure, and Homer fingers certainly don't help at all. some are easier than others - the testa are the worst i'd say.
you just rub the shims down. taking a bit off a too tight shim is easy.
@@bradthebikeboy maybe my sanding technique is garbage. I use 800 grit paper on tempered glass. Any suggestions?
@@robevans916 i've only ever used an oil stone.