@@marke1464 He's nervous, but on the surface he looks calm and ready To drop nitro, but he keeps on forgettin' What his car puts down, the whole crowd goes so loud He opens his throttle, but the horsepowers won't come out.... 😂
my wife is in a wheelchair and one of her chair buddies is about 65, newly injured and in a chair for the rest of his life because he wasn't using jack stands, I love seeing you do garage style work with no lift and talk about safety. Thanks Daddy Dahm
Rob: Walks into the barber shop Barber: What can i do for you? Rob : i never want to speak to females again and keep a hat glued to my skull Barber : Say no more fam i got you!
Aluminum cutting/grinding tip: use a cutting wax. I do a lot of machining with aluminum and brass, and lubricant wax stops cutoff wheels, grinding pads, and drill bits from clogging with soft metals. It’s an amazing difference in time and effort. Cheers!
You could do with using a recip saw to cut aluminium, ally clogs grinding discs causing them too over heat and explode, flap discs are OK though and make a good job of cleaning up and finishing, keep up the good work 👍
V-mount is a massive waste of time. Any decent modern radiator and intercooler will suffice, this isn't the 90's anymore. At this point, it's literally rice. Putting an intercooler that can support 800hp into a car that won't make 500 will just leave you with less boost going into the engine due to the pressure drop associated with it.
Sky Guy yes most of today’s ics and rads can perform well in standard configuration, but they would perform BETTER in a v mount configuration with proper ducting. Air flow is air flow, and colder air intake temps are always better. So if he has the space why not? Plus v mount isn’t that time consuming to fab brackets for, even if he doesn’t do proper good venting and ducting right away
I hate to be critical, I'm enjoying your content. I'm watching your videos and my back hurts watching you always working on the floor. Consider a work bench. A small investment that will no doubt improve the quality of your content. Maybe a nice steel bench on wheels. Great for cutting up cross members or opening packages on camera. Keep up the good work
Hey Rob, not sure if you will see this but thought it might be worth a mention. If you coat your cutting or sanding disc using a dry bar of dish soap ( We have a green bar here in South Africa called Sunlight) it will help massively with picking up less aluminium onto your cutting faces and "lubricate"your cuts also preventing your disc from digging in :) Keep up the great work!
They are kind of rare but I wonder if swapping a gsl-se front cover would help your engine mount setup. They have the engine mounts in the front and may be pretty close to lining up with the stock corvette mounts. I’m not sure how omp and all that stuff would work but it wouldn’t be a bad thing to look into.
He does mention fitting an early type front cover with engine mounts but does say with the expected power would rather keep the rear mounts to prevent twisting the block.
Yeah watching it again I totally did glaze over when he said that haha I suppose that makes sense, just kinda sketched me out that it sounds like he still wants to mount it to the subframe with the rear mounts.
It’s Fuu”ked humble approach imperfect perfection Over here in Australia and New Zealand we call rx7 Battyz, funny thing was the sub mount looked like Batman’s symbol you could call it the corvette batty mount lol Love how you bring it back down to earth how simple things can be just handtools and a grinder old school NA on your list of things to do,back in the day me and my cuzon put a13b na into a 1969 Mitsubishi lancer we ran it just with the headers welded a plat over the end and drilled holes in it ,looked like an old meat grinder end plate if you know what i mean
Just a tip, you can use a grinding wheel instead of the cut off wheel on that subframe. Harbor freight has a pack of the fiber reinforced one's for like 10 bucks. They last forever too. Good luck with the build.
Hey Rob, when cutting aluminum with a cutoff wheel, run the cutoff wheel through a regular bar of soap first. The soap coating the disc will keep it from getting all loaded up with aluminum. Also, the haircut looks fine, I wouldn't worry about it.
Bringing a rotary swapped vette to LS fest? Rob is truly a rotary legend and we need more people like this Also, technique = use a die grinder and a cutting disk for the smaller smoother cuts, and a burr grinder to finish if you want it perfect.
I would assume you want at least a 1/2" clearance between the engine and the subframe, unless you're going to do a solid mount. Gotta remember engines move.
17:39 I did similar work on my Tercel to fit a 1ZZ into it. I ended up doing rough cuts with the angle grinder, then finishing it off with a Dremel for those precise rounded cuts. After that I boxed the frame rail off with some extremely thick steel to make up for the lost support. Photos available if you're interested
After the engine mounts are made and the sub frame gusseted or boxed, the really hard stuff is done. Electrical and fuel won't be too bad, and with a few acres of space the inter cooler and intake plumbing should be pretty straight forward.
Can't wait to see what the final weight of this car is going to be, and more importantly the distribution of that weight. That should make for some crazy handling characteristics over its stock form
Never commented before I've been watching this whole progress, So when using the angle grinder to make the round cut place it down on the spot like you did bring it on a 45 degree angle and rock it back and forth not too fast you can start like that and finish or about halfway go from tho bottom on the end and try to cut with the curve.
To make arced cuts in any type of metal it is easiest to make the angled cut like you did then use a die grinder with a carbide burr to finalize it. A die grinder gives you the freedom to make any size arc freehand and also has many other uses around the shop. I can tell you that once you have one, its a tool that you will think to use in a lot of situations.
Awesome work! As a tip maybe use a bit of masking tape to straighten and plan out your cutting lines. To apply a neat and subtle radius, I probably would have used a flap-disc on the angle grinder, I can really recommend them. But it turned out really nice.
Bend a 1/4" aluminum plate and weld it to the subframe to replace the wall you cut out. You will get a bunch of strength back. The Carbon Fiber leaf spring supports the entire front end, and flexes the subframe.
Could have used a holesaw in the corners before you cut everything else. but now its too late. Aluminum is still soft enough that even wood cutting holesaws could be used in a pinch.., it would dull the crap out of them quickly but they could be used.
@@mfree80286 More than that. It also requires switching to coil overs, changing the axel stubs and brake system. Not to mention it was designed for drag racing. rather than all around uses.
Lol. Did you realize that project binky has been happening for the lasy 10 godamn years???? Fuck yea their work is awesome and looks great, but theyve been working on that same mini for 10 cocksuckin years... years........
@@RobDahm Project Binky is a feat in engineering. A full ST185 Celica GT-FOUR drivetrain (3S-GTE, 4WD) into a 1960s Mini Cooper, just amazing. 👍💪 Search Bad Obsession Motorsport. For actually building the engine you've already stumbled upon the twins and Broomy at FullBoost. 😉
@@Z-Ack Dude, I have a JZA70 1JZ in an MX83 Cressida, it took me nearly 10yrs to find a specific OEM part due to lack of availability because people would only sell the entire kit for thousands and Toyota are pricks that don't sell to engine swappers!! 😫
thinking of the circular rotation of the rotors; your engine will vibrate/oscillate in that motion. Maybe consider that in the future? Your bushings will have to be extremely firm or else the engine will vibrate on the subframe. That, or grind off a bit more off the subrame on the sides. I don't know your vision on the vehicle, but if you care for it to be yours for a while dont skip corners, now is the time to do things right.
hi, Rob, you can make two bridges on each side of the engine to put the motor points, starting and using the same points of the subframe and welding somewhere in the firewall.
Rob that thin disk is for cutting they make thicker disks for grinding and are ment for side loading a bit better but that thin cutting blade just too much side force and it will snap
@@glock1inthetop45 too turned into turn with auto correct... otherwise he used a cutting disk for grinding away material and they will snap with side loaded force(using the flat side to move material) and they make thicker grinding disks ment to be use more for moving material and less liking to snap to side loaded force
I don't think your technique is too bad there. You've definitely got the right idea with sneaking up on the cut and tracing out patterns. You can finish it off with a flap disk, or with a roloc disk. I love roloc disks for grinding welds and such, but the curve here isn't crazy tight so a flap disk should be plenty capable. Then ya know, go crazy and polish the whole subframe and get some dude to spend a week engraving fancy swirls all over it.
on the hack saw... pick up some A9 cutting fluid (for aluminum) And use a coarser blade. It will last a lot longer (way longer than on any other metal) and cut WAY faster. On the angle grinder, pick up some cutting wax (or use a soap bar) it will make the abrasive disk last longer, and cut way faster through aluminum. Like butter if you use the right methods. Good luck!
also, get a die grinder (or rotozip if you do not have air.. or foredom) and some good carbide burrs to remove some small material and round out edges (also use A9.. really use it on all cutting tools with aluminum) a good set of files can go a long way as well (nicholson or something equal or better)
The stack of washers are most likely for achieving proper torque to seal the oil pan when the engine mounts are not installed. If you don't torque the bolts properly before the RTV dries, then the pan will leak.
Pause at 8:17. Back of his head is really messed up too. Weirdest fade in the world. I feel your pain brotha. I’ve been there before a long time ago. Have to find someone who is consistently good. Good luck on your date!
There's a lot of space for a custom long runners intake manifold..(maybe I mispelled it)..you should put the turbo in front of the engine. that a one off Corvette..Nice job Rob
The chick that fucked up his hair was busy flirting with him and was her out to ask him.. out... lol. “Oops my bad, lemme repay you with this ass”. Rob says “does that mean yu wanna go out sometime?
The extra bracing on the sub frame should be easy when it is not solid, get a big slab made and just bolt it onto the remaining frame with nuts and bolts.
rob get some 1/4" thick grinding wheels and flap discs. also you might want to look into a full face shield and thicker gloves. because those cutting wheels have a tendency to explode.
ROB ..here is a life saving tip place your tires under the car that way if the jack or the stand fail it will just fall on the tires..savin' your butt also make sure you place wood on top of your Rim/ tires so they don't get damaged.
I always put tires & wood blocks on both side of the car when working on them, at least those stuff would be secondary jackstand if the main one failed.
You need to buy the aluminum pucks that go into the jack points on that vette.... pop all the doors and rear hatch before jacking.... makes a huge diffrence in not destorying the fiberglass body.... pretty fragile fiberglass vettes....
Just a couple Things please wear a face shield when using a cut off wheel I’ve worked in Fabrication and have seen those things and just fly apart and hurt people pretty bad. And secondly when you’re making the cuts making the cut and cutting up the chunks that’s like the best way to do it but if you take a tiger paw or flapper disc and use it for the finish work after you cut out the big chunks it’s a lot safer and you usually get a a better end product. Lastly please never use a cut off wheel as a gridding wheel that is very dangerous because it is causing side pressure to it and they’re not designed for that and they will explode when to much side pressure is applied I have learned from experience on that one lol. Anyways love the content keep it up!!
Invest in a Zirconia Flap Disc, Rob. Especially with aluminum, a flap disc will smoothen out the round cut on the subframe, and you can use it to deburr your edges. Also, I noticed you held the grinder so the dust from the cut goes away from you, which is dangerous. Even with a guard and a handle for better grip, an angle grinder catching from the wheel will rip itself out of your hands, nearly 80% of the time, dare I say 90%. So having the dust from cutting fly away from you means the blade catching will send the grinder towards you, risking a bruise or even a cut, regardless of whether you have a guard on it or not. Hold the grinder so that when you cut, the dust is flying towards you, in between your legs, basically around you, that way if the grinder ever catches, it flies away from you, killing any risk of that blade coming for you. I cut my hand 4 times on one cut from an angle grinder holding it wrong while cutting an exhaust. The blade hit my skin, went deep, went off my skin, and came back down, FOUR times.
You can make the radius cuts using a straight grinder with a aluminum rotary file. Also, you should always either wax or wd40 what your cutting with before cutting aluminum to stop it from clogging and impeding cutting.
You need a special cutoff wheel or grinding disc for aluminum. The way the aluminum was melting onto the blade can be dangerous, since it can cause the blade to explode.
Gday Rob, You haven’t got time for haircuts mate. You’ve got a car to build! She must have been hot though for you to continue sitting there watching that “do” develop in the mirror. 😬🍻
Backwards hat and a 1320 shirt... Rob is going really far to blend in with the LS guys
using an app to make the vette sound like a normal ls through a speaker until the last moment
Although my shirt is Dodge and they love HEMI, your point is accurate lol
Rob Dahm I figured, but the corvette guys aren’t smart enough to notice it’s not just a normal 1320 shirt LOL
He's a vape and keychain lanyard away from building a rotary Subaru.
@@kylekeogh2731 its a scat pack 1320 shirt
His forehead is sweaty, bank account weak, LS Bock is heavy, there's Premix in his tank already, Rob Spaghetti.
Oh wait..
LMAOO
In this video, mr spaghetti cuts his noodles so they cook faster
@@JaredConnell I mixed up the Robs. This is the good one, i'm sorry
@@marke1464 He's nervous, but on the surface he looks calm and ready
To drop nitro, but he keeps on forgettin'
What his car puts down, the whole crowd goes so loud
He opens his throttle, but the horsepowers won't come out....
😂
Fucking gold
It's ok Rob, we've all had bad haircuts. Not as bad as that, but we get how you're feeling
Eye pro - points to ears
Ear pro - points to eyes
Got to love Rob Dahm!!
It's so you can hear the bits flying at your eyes and see the bits flying at your ears.
Lisdexia is a real issue.
my wife is in a wheelchair and one of her chair buddies is about 65, newly injured and in a chair for the rest of his life because he wasn't using jack stands, I love seeing you do garage style work with no lift and talk about safety. Thanks Daddy Dahm
Rob: Walks into the barber shop
Barber: What can i do for you?
Rob : i never want to speak to females again and keep a hat glued to my skull
Barber : Say no more fam i got you!
At 4:41 look at that fade in the back. Holy Christ. What did you pay??
He should have went to a black barber shop
Yup I noticed at 8:16
Looks like she cut his hair with an angle grinder
Hopefully he got a reach around, since he got f*cked.
@@jkreviea that's the funniest comment on here, I'm dying
A flap disk on your angle grinder will do beautiful shaping wonders! They’re basically my favorite disk for a grinder. Get ya one! 🤘🏻
Aluminum cutting/grinding tip: use a cutting wax. I do a lot of machining with aluminum and brass, and lubricant wax stops cutoff wheels, grinding pads, and drill bits from clogging with soft metals. It’s an amazing difference in time and effort. Cheers!
Appreciate Rob reading comments and responding to viewer ideas in video....great youtuber!
Hey rob I thought I'd let you know that we all appreciate your hard work and your time took for entertaining your viewers
Flap disk or grinding disk after you make your rough cuts to smooth it out.
You could do with using a recip saw to cut aluminium, ally clogs grinding discs causing them too over heat and explode, flap discs are OK though and make a good job of cleaning up and finishing, keep up the good work 👍
Cant wait to see this thing at ls fest. I've been planning since last year to go. So excited to meet you and cleetus
Are you planning on doing a v mount radiator and intercooler? You have a ton of space for awesome airflow into both
Yeah, especially with the outlets on the hood like the Ford GT, it would look sick
V-mount is a massive waste of time. Any decent modern radiator and intercooler will suffice, this isn't the 90's anymore. At this point, it's literally rice. Putting an intercooler that can support 800hp into a car that won't make 500 will just leave you with less boost going into the engine due to the pressure drop associated with it.
Sky Guy yes most of today’s ics and rads can perform well in standard configuration, but they would perform BETTER in a v mount configuration with proper ducting. Air flow is air flow, and colder air intake temps are always better. So if he has the space why not? Plus v mount isn’t that time consuming to fab brackets for, even if he doesn’t do proper good venting and ducting right away
Rob get a Flap disc for radius's like those. you can get them in various grits.
I hate to be critical, I'm enjoying your content.
I'm watching your videos and my back hurts watching you always working on the floor.
Consider a work bench. A small investment that will no doubt improve the quality of your content. Maybe a nice steel bench on wheels. Great for cutting up cross members or opening packages on camera.
Keep up the good work
Use the top of the lambo as a workbench
Get a Grinder and Flap disc to help with the finishing process.
Your talking about the haircut right?
An easier way to make radius cuts is to use a hole saw before you break out the grinder, then you only have to make a fraction of the cuts
Hey Rob, not sure if you will see this but thought it might be worth a mention.
If you coat your cutting or sanding disc using a dry bar of dish soap ( We have a green bar here in South Africa called Sunlight) it will help massively with picking up less aluminium onto your cutting faces and "lubricate"your cuts also preventing your disc from digging in :) Keep up the great work!
They are kind of rare but I wonder if swapping a gsl-se front cover would help your engine mount setup. They have the engine mounts in the front and may be pretty close to lining up with the stock corvette mounts. I’m not sure how omp and all that stuff would work but it wouldn’t be a bad thing to look into.
He does mention fitting an early type front cover with engine mounts but does say with the expected power would rather keep the rear mounts to prevent twisting the block.
Yeah watching it again I totally did glaze over when he said that haha I suppose that makes sense, just kinda sketched me out that it sounds like he still wants to mount it to the subframe with the rear mounts.
Rob is breaking records first time I here a 13b swap on a Corvette and first time I hear a awd 4 rotor engine still waiting on that Mazda
It’s Fuu”ked humble approach imperfect perfection
Over here in Australia and New Zealand we call rx7 Battyz, funny thing was the sub mount looked like Batman’s symbol you could call it the corvette batty mount lol
Love how you bring it back down to earth how simple things can be just handtools and a grinder
old school NA on your list of things to do,back in the day me and my cuzon put a13b na into a 1969 Mitsubishi lancer we ran it just with the headers welded a plat over the end and drilled holes in it ,looked like an old meat grinder end plate if you know what i mean
Just a tip, you can use a grinding wheel instead of the cut off wheel on that subframe. Harbor freight has a pack of the fiber reinforced one's for like 10 bucks. They last forever too. Good luck with the build.
Video a day please Rob. No pressure.
Hey Rob, when cutting aluminum with a cutoff wheel, run the cutoff wheel through a regular bar of soap first. The soap coating the disc will keep it from getting all loaded up with aluminum.
Also, the haircut looks fine, I wouldn't worry about it.
Respect what u are doing.Anybody that had any kind of project car know the stress u putting yourself true.
Respect 👊🏾✊🏾👏🏾🍻
Bringing a rotary swapped vette to LS fest? Rob is truly a rotary legend and we need more people like this
Also, technique = use a die grinder and a cutting disk for the smaller smoother cuts, and a burr grinder to finish if you want it perfect.
Wait. A date with Erica? Didn't sound like it
Marke did they break up?
superMrpena she doesn’t drive stick so yes...
nightmarejr she didn’t ride robs stick
any1 knows why they broke up? they really seemed to fit themselves
Could it be because he moved across the country, did he leave her behind?
Gonna be a lot of mad old white guys at LS fest when you show up spitting flames at 8k rpm
And then the will be thousands of ls cars.with bigger flames.. this is stupid
Jason Jones that’s not how this works buddy
fenn yeah it is. It’s ls fest. Rob will be lucky if he’s allowed in... buddy
@@mmsharp
You guys are underestimating the power of flaming hot doritos
@@mmsharp
............
Bbuddy
(why did you do that it's some cliche childish shit)
You sir are Nuckin Futs! Now hurry up and get it done, we need to see some Corvette fools getting pissed! LOL
I would assume you want at least a 1/2" clearance between the engine and the subframe, unless you're going to do a solid mount.
Gotta remember engines move.
17:39 I did similar work on my Tercel to fit a 1ZZ into it. I ended up doing rough cuts with the angle grinder, then finishing it off with a Dremel for those precise rounded cuts. After that I boxed the frame rail off with some extremely thick steel to make up for the lost support. Photos available if you're interested
i just love the tight fit with the little craddle
After the engine mounts are made and the sub frame gusseted or boxed, the really hard stuff is done. Electrical and fuel won't be too bad, and with a few acres of space the inter cooler and intake plumbing should be pretty straight forward.
damn dude this thing is really coming together now, its gona be rad
Hi Rob, clearance looks pretty tight, what if the engine moves under acceleration
“It’s time for the simple tools”
*Rob Dahm enters stage right*
Can't wait to see what the final weight of this car is going to be, and more importantly the distribution of that weight. That should make for some crazy handling characteristics over its stock form
You make a simple job seen so complicated. Well done 👌
Would'nt it be cool if welded in some plating in the open space in the engine bay and build a frunk? Or whatever I don't care ;)
Okay that's a cool idea
Never commented before I've been watching this whole progress,
So when using the angle grinder to make the round cut place it down on the spot like you did bring it on a 45 degree angle and rock it back and forth not too fast you can start like that and finish or about halfway go from tho bottom on the end and try to cut with the curve.
To make arced cuts in any type of metal it is easiest to make the angled cut like you did then use a die grinder with a carbide burr to finalize it. A die grinder gives you the freedom to make any size arc freehand and also has many other uses around the shop. I can tell you that once you have one, its a tool that you will think to use in a lot of situations.
Good job.. can't wait to see that thing running.
Awesome work! As a tip maybe use a bit of masking tape to straighten and plan out your cutting lines. To apply a neat and subtle radius, I probably would have used a flap-disc on the angle grinder, I can really recommend them. But it turned out really nice.
i love this build so much. cant wait for more progress
Aftermarket tubular subframe would make it so easy and save so much time
Very interesting build you got going there. And man, you weren't lying about how jacked up your haircut is, Lol!
Bend a 1/4" aluminum plate and weld it to the subframe to replace the wall you cut out. You will get a bunch of strength back. The Carbon Fiber leaf spring supports the entire front end, and flexes the subframe.
Cant watch vid ads not loading but was able to see up to you talking about the abs
reciprocating saw was the tool for the job lol.
Good job Rob! Your fabrication is so much cleaner than your wiring lol. Looks like it's going well can't wait to see it finished. Dorito Power!
Torch...mig...idk- great job! Can’t hold on waiting. Where’s movie magic when you need it
Good God there's going to be CRAZY room in the engine bay with the long Corvette front end. There's going to be like 3' in front of the rotary!
If the abrasive disc gets gummed up with aluminium you can grind it clean if you hold it against stone or concrete
Im glad Rob knows the lyrics to Forgot About Dre...great song
Could have used a holesaw in the corners before you cut everything else. but now its too late. Aluminum is still soft enough that even wood cutting holesaws could be used in a pinch.., it would dull the crap out of them quickly but they could be used.
I still don't understand why he didn't just buy an aftermarket subframe that's lighter and has tons of clearance.
@@unlisted9494 Because $3000 and no answer to emails, which he says in the video.
@@mfree80286 More than that. It also requires switching to coil overs, changing the axel stubs and brake system. Not to mention it was designed for drag racing. rather than all around uses.
That thumbnail is EPIC!!! Good luck Rob! Got to put a hidden cam under the hood for LS fest 😜
man you guys need to watch project Binky, force you to up your fabrication game.
Definitely trying to grow quickly on fabrication so I don’t have to rely on anyone else. I’m sure watching him will help inspire!
@@RobDahm this exchange right here is why i watch this channel , keep up the good work man
Lol. Did you realize that project binky has been happening for the lasy 10 godamn years???? Fuck yea their work is awesome and looks great, but theyve been working on that same mini for 10 cocksuckin years... years........
@@RobDahm Project Binky is a feat in engineering. A full ST185 Celica GT-FOUR drivetrain (3S-GTE, 4WD) into a 1960s Mini Cooper, just amazing. 👍💪 Search Bad Obsession Motorsport.
For actually building the engine you've already stumbled upon the twins and Broomy at FullBoost. 😉
@@Z-Ack Dude, I have a JZA70 1JZ in an MX83 Cressida, it took me nearly 10yrs to find a specific OEM part due to lack of availability because people would only sell the entire kit for thousands and Toyota are pricks that don't sell to engine swappers!! 😫
Hey Rob glad to see you using saftey gear just might be a good idea to wear a mask when cutting or grinding aluminum
Gotta get you a level for the top of the motor and a flap disk for the rest of the grinding on the sub frame
thinking of the circular rotation of the rotors; your engine will vibrate/oscillate in that motion. Maybe consider that in the future? Your bushings will have to be extremely firm or else the engine will vibrate on the subframe. That, or grind off a bit more off the subrame on the sides. I don't know your vision on the vehicle, but if you care for it to be yours for a while dont skip corners, now is the time to do things right.
Had an uncle that died when his old f150 fell on him. As ironic as it may sound, he was my uncle Jack.
A lot of really good memories out on his farm.
hi, Rob, you can make two bridges on each side of the engine to put the motor points, starting and using the same points of the subframe and welding somewhere in the firewall.
Rob that thin disk is for cutting they make thicker disks for grinding and are ment for side loading a bit better but that thin cutting blade just too much side force and it will snap
Is this even English?
@@glock1inthetop45 too turned into turn with auto correct... otherwise he used a cutting disk for grinding away material and they will snap with side loaded force(using the flat side to move material) and they make thicker grinding disks ment to be use more for moving material and less liking to snap to side loaded force
I don't think your technique is too bad there. You've definitely got the right idea with sneaking up on the cut and tracing out patterns. You can finish it off with a flap disk, or with a roloc disk. I love roloc disks for grinding welds and such, but the curve here isn't crazy tight so a flap disk should be plenty capable. Then ya know, go crazy and polish the whole subframe and get some dude to spend a week engraving fancy swirls all over it.
This content is better than 4 rotor content
Relief cuts. Good technique.
on the hack saw... pick up some A9 cutting fluid (for aluminum) And use a coarser blade. It will last a lot longer (way longer than on any other metal) and cut WAY faster.
On the angle grinder, pick up some cutting wax (or use a soap bar) it will make the abrasive disk last longer, and cut way faster through aluminum.
Like butter if you use the right methods.
Good luck!
also, get a die grinder (or rotozip if you do not have air.. or foredom) and some good carbide burrs to remove some small material and round out edges (also use A9.. really use it on all cutting tools with aluminum)
a good set of files can go a long way as well (nicholson or something equal or better)
The stack of washers are most likely for achieving proper torque to seal the oil pan when the engine mounts are not installed. If you don't torque the bolts properly before the RTV dries, then the pan will leak.
Pause at 8:17. Back of his head is really messed up too. Weirdest fade in the world. I feel your pain brotha. I’ve been there before a long time ago. Have to find someone who is consistently good. Good luck on your date!
I am loving the Amherst Rotary Vette!
An ABS delete kit is 2 inverted flare Tees and some fittings. maybe a roll of tubing.
There's a lot of space for a custom long runners intake manifold..(maybe I mispelled it)..you should put the turbo in front of the engine. that a one off Corvette..Nice job Rob
Rob with that hair cut and that shirt make him look like a regular corvette owner
A date what happened to Erica!!! Loving this build Rob!
The chick that fucked up his hair was busy flirting with him and was her out to ask him.. out... lol. “Oops my bad, lemme repay you with this ass”. Rob says “does that mean yu wanna go out sometime?
@@Z-Ack But those GURLS make Rob run when they get a rise!
This is insane man so exited to see this car brap mano props to you man
The extra bracing on the sub frame should be easy when it is not solid, get a big slab made and just bolt it onto the remaining frame with nuts and bolts.
thats so awesome. i sure hope i can get info from you if i find a vette shell and a 13b to slap together!
Rob: Walks into the barber shop
Barber: What can i do for you?
Rob : Have you ever seen that movie American Pi....
Barber : Say no more fam i got you!
love you rob dahm
rob get some 1/4" thick grinding wheels and flap discs. also you might want to look into a full face shield and thicker gloves. because those cutting wheels have a tendency to explode.
Genuinely good advice. Will do!
Can't wait to to hear this and see it go. Nice job
loving this series... and im not even sub gonna have to fix that now...
ROB ..here is a life saving tip place your tires under the car that way if the jack or the stand fail it will just fall on the tires..savin' your butt also make sure you place wood on top of your Rim/ tires so they don't get damaged.
You need the Team Z subframe yesterday. You will have zero issues with fitment.
I always put tires & wood blocks on both side of the car when working on them, at least those stuff would be secondary jackstand if the main one failed.
You need to buy the aluminum pucks that go into the jack points on that vette.... pop all the doors and rear hatch before jacking.... makes a huge diffrence in not destorying the fiberglass body.... pretty fragile fiberglass vettes....
Damn dude, not a big deal. Just clipper it all even with a #2 guard. It will grow back geesh.
Just a couple Things please wear a face shield when using a cut off wheel I’ve worked in Fabrication and have seen those things and just fly apart and hurt people pretty bad. And secondly when you’re making the cuts making the cut and cutting up the chunks that’s like the best way to do it but if you take a tiger paw or flapper disc and use it for the finish work after you cut out the big chunks it’s a lot safer and you usually get a a better end product. Lastly please never use a cut off wheel as a gridding wheel that is very dangerous because it is causing side pressure to it and they’re not designed for that and they will explode when to much side pressure is applied I have learned from experience on that one lol. Anyways love the content keep it up!!
Don’t forget to make room for the plating you are reinforcing with but looks good so far
Invest in a Zirconia Flap Disc, Rob. Especially with aluminum, a flap disc will smoothen out the round cut on the subframe, and you can use it to deburr your edges.
Also, I noticed you held the grinder so the dust from the cut goes away from you, which is dangerous. Even with a guard and a handle for better grip, an angle grinder catching from the wheel will rip itself out of your hands, nearly 80% of the time, dare I say 90%. So having the dust from cutting fly away from you means the blade catching will send the grinder towards you, risking a bruise or even a cut, regardless of whether you have a guard on it or not. Hold the grinder so that when you cut, the dust is flying towards you, in between your legs, basically around you, that way if the grinder ever catches, it flies away from you, killing any risk of that blade coming for you. I cut my hand 4 times on one cut from an angle grinder holding it wrong while cutting an exhaust. The blade hit my skin, went deep, went off my skin, and came back down, FOUR times.
Good progress! Looking forward to minds blown at LS Fest! Go for it! I dare you!
You can make the radius cuts using a straight grinder with a aluminum rotary file. Also, you should always either wax or wd40 what your cutting with before cutting aluminum to stop it from clogging and impeding cutting.
You need a special cutoff wheel or grinding disc for aluminum. The way the aluminum was melting onto the blade can be dangerous, since it can cause the blade to explode.
I miss the days when he used to film everything on his own with one hand and build stuff with another
Check out the sub frame that cleetus mcFarland uses on leeroy and ruby, pretty sure he mentioned an abs delete kit also.
Gday Rob,
You haven’t got time for haircuts mate. You’ve got a car to build! She must have been hot though for you to continue sitting there watching that “do” develop in the mirror. 😬🍻
He did say he has a date next week, sooo.... Dating the hairdresser girl maybe 😉
Should add a vertical rib all along the cut. It will add back a lot of strength.
Date coming up? Don’t worry I’m sure he won’t mind the hair.
Damn
Jaret loves me no matter what haha
I think he wants his beard to grow out so that him and his date's beards can stick together like velcro.