I'm sitting at 730km... I think that's 540k miles. Original engine and original transmission to boot. 2011 ML 350 bluetec. Oil changes every 7000km. Fuel filter every other oil change. Only piss off is the oil cooler seal is starting to leak for the 3rd time.
@@fundamentallybroken4194 added another 60k miles to mine. Had problems with exhaust manifolds blowing chunks of metal in the turbo. Oil cooler seals. Have you installed the upgraded purple ones?
Thanks for the video. You said dreaded OM642 engine. I have 3 vehicles. All with the same engine. Outside of replacing the oil cooler seals, cleaning the induction system and general maintenance I have had no issues. Please elaborate “dreaded OM642”. Thanks
Thank you so much for the suggestions! One comment is that, there is something to look out for when plumbing the PCV before the air filter on the passenger side intake. when the engine is off, there is nothing preventing the moisture and other things getting into the hose leading to the CCV. Once the engine is on, CCV starts opening, the moisture and other things might getting into the crankcase although the chance is low. An improved version would be adding some sort of filter there to prevent things getting into it.
Wow, you are such a blessing...I hope you keep us upto date on any other midifications youbmade to your wife's suv...thanks for sharing the knowledge ☝🏾
Hi Ridgeback, here's an update after going through this process myself... and thanks for all the help and advice and for the initial post. I began by buying the whole cahuna, from the metal part shown here plus 8" wiggly pipe through to the connector into the Y piece. This proved useful if expensive £110 GBP. I cut the metal bands holding the 2-piece pipe together ( it has a central allo join connector. I ran my output pipe from this under the batwing to the front of the car where I sited a Provent 200 can. I blocked off the intake to the Y Tube at the turbo, and put insulating tape over the bare sensor which is now hanging free... Carefully managed, the pipe will fit under the batwing. I then installed the rest of the stuff as per ridgeback tho I fired the return pipe into hard plastic and hung the catchcan off the fusebox - my car is a 2014 Bluetec RH drive. Photos should show what I have done. System works brilliantly.... Very very pleased that this oil is no longer going back into the intake and swirl flaps..! Photos should be in here: myalbum.com/album/D4qaix2TpVSj
In your car, the pipe coming out of the oil trap goes back to the air pipe. Doesn't the same thing happen? The oily air goes to the air filter again, at least to a small extent.
This makes a lot of sense. Most cars route the PCV in front of the air filters. I had a golf which had the same type of routing directly into the intake and the intake was also very oily.
I did the catch can as per this video and indeed it will make a huge difference. I was consuming oil, replaced the PCV and the oil separator and that reduced but not eliminated the issue. As with all of the other videos, the main issue is suction. If you just route the outlet of the provent to the intake next to the turbo, you are not solving the issue but just further reducing it. You will still gum up the intakes etc. Do the whole thing, and it will seriously reduce oil consumption. If you're in doubt, just pull the inlet into turbo side and you will see oil. Even with new PCV and separator.
I have added the Provent 200 to my 2013 GL350 and run it back into the stock location. From what I’ve read the major oil consumption issue comes from the lip seal on the fitting that bolts to the back of the head. When I changed mine the seal was as hard as the aluminum housing. I do the same thing for draining the Provent, a hose & ball valve. I get about 2-3 ounces of blow by oil every 3k miles. I still get a TRACE amount of oil at the turbo inlet but it’s really insignificant. The oil cooler seals just let go so I had my mechanic (30+ year MB Mech.) replace them & clean up the intake while there. He was intrigued that the buildup was dry & flaky instead of the normal gooey tar like mess. He is now suggesting the Provent to all of his diesel customers. I believe changing the Provent filter at the suggested 40k miles as well as changing the PCV fitting at the same time will keep the intake clean. I will also be using the motorvac intake cleaning system to keep everything nice and clean.
I will definitely try this ... I have to clean manifold and change the flaps bar so I will try and do this ... let's hope my mechanic will want to try this cuz I do not have where to do this my self.
Firstly - a huge thanks for this video, and sharing the experience!!! Could you please explain where you connect that sensor which is near PCV valve, right before the turbo inlet, originally in that "T" connection? I guess I miss it. Thank you for your answer.
I leave electrical connector plugged in so no soft code gets triggered and I zip tied it for the strut tower bar above the engine. This is not a sensor, but in-line heater for the line so there would be no ice buld up hitting blades of the turbo under extreme frezzeing conditions. For huge majority of us that is not a problen and if you re-route PCV in front of the air filter there will be no chance of ice ever getting to the turbo.
Great info.. I’m driving a 2008 GL320 I will definitely check out that part and replace, I’ve done the PCV Valve already but the hose still goes to the turbo.. Great video..
Great video. Thank you. My wife and I are planning to do this project to our 2008 GL320. Can you tell us what kind of fitting you used to connect it to the airbox?
Does the outlet on the catch can have to be hooked up in to the air intake hose? can it just be left open thank you for your video its very informative
Hi roblaeke ! Good video on an important topic of poor design that actually ruins a nice engine ! I did all the things you did, including the Mann catch can, with the same result : Still oil at the turbo inlet and intake system. But two questions to your final solution : 1. Have you checked if the right-hand side (in driving direction) air filter is gooed-up with oil mists ? 2. What happens to the sensor on the original PCV rubber hose, going from the PCV vent to the turbo inlet ?
I don’t think I asked this properly before. I would love to see the plumbing of the PCV re-routing from the catch can into the air intake feed on the passenger side. What kind of coupler did you glue / cement inside that plastic on the air feed intake to allow for the hose clamps.
Just put a smaller diameter hose piece into the original pcv valve. In front of the sensor( if you are concerned it being sucked into the turbo) This reduces vacuum created by the turbo a lot. I went with 4mm hole in the smaller hose piece.
The suction is reduced so much that barely anything can get that far and besides, with a quality oil catch can such as Mann Provent 200 you are pretty much guaranteed nothin will reach the air filter. Provent 200 has a replaceable filter itself. It is a fully serviceable catch can. In Europe catch cans are the first thing people add to their diesel.
@@ridgebackgarage4580 do you leave the pcv valve in the same spot just add extra hose and go though the oil catch can before entering the air box cheers
To prevent the broken flange, make sure the metal band is snug to thd plastic and use silicone spray to help get it on the turbo. I definitely have oil in my intake so this is useful.
Talk to BMW Owners all of 90% who installed those special Cans get back to original * What is the most important to understand oil change at max 7000 miles - never go up what manufacture recommends * this all is political - frequent oil change means more spillover more pollution * Governments want everything does not last to a long time - today made engines are designed to last no more as 200.000 miles * I change the oil on my GL every 5000 miles * 70% of owners getting cheap oil change not knowing what kind of oil needs * For those MB Diesels only MB229.52 specification - 0W30 5W30 - 0W40 or 5W40 - MOTUL or MOBIL1 * Those engines run very hotly - peoples looking on cooling temperature and is very wrong - Internal engine temperature oil and moving parts getting much above cooling temperature * 0W30 5W30 run very fast in the internal lubrication channels what giving so many benefits faster cool and better lubrication for moving parts *** Those light oils have much stronger Film Strenght from conventional 20W50 engine oil ** Those MB Diesel go with no problems 500.000 miles ** Look on statistics those engines was killed at 100.000 miles and why? by smart Joe who changes oil at 20.000 miles plus very cheap and wrong specs and viscosities. Those oils 0W30 5W30 when to burn very clean - call low ash oils. Air from Turbo getting up very hot when riching intercooler - after intercooler is about 150F kipping those oil vapors light as steam when getting to the intake manifold and burned very clean *** Worn engines wrong oils unburned oils getting to EGR this create a killing zone for the engine.*** EGR is used to reduced burning temperature in the cylinder during the combustion process if very high temp producing more Nox gasses *** To give more life to any engine condition need to switch off EGR Valve only *** Can be done by CODING the main computer for a couple of $$$ *** Those oil cans is only a business for those peoples who are selling * Do manufacture not know what means oil separators? In the right side of Head is a very high tech oil separator *** Some peoples have a personal fantasy of magics with closed eyes can do anything even can please a Queen ** For MB DIESELS up to 2009 early March production have the old type of PCV the Blac Plastic Ventilation of Crankcase the newest VALVEThe PART NUMBER: A6420102391 All from 2009 April production has a new type of VALVE PCV ALUMINIUM different look from the old one 2 x bolt fitting as the adapter for old PCV *** Remember those cars and engines are very good only smart Joe damaging or Garage Joe looking for profit damaging for other one naive Joe grab his money. Those Old type PCV Valves Black Plastic need to replace max at 50.000 miles *** New type of PCV is for life never needs to be replaced.
@@nico-toscani On one of Mercedes Forum owner of ML320CDI 500000 miles - no problem to start with only 3 glow plugs * Blutec engine safer from Ad Blue - have to use very light engine oil MB229.52 speck 0W30 or 5W30 ** CDI engines can use 5W40 oil much better for that reason last much longer * Philosophy of drive and how we can understand our way of driving * when we change engine oil on Blutec after 200000 miles that baby not going to last for long time ___ Best of all needs to look on German drivers - average timing chain replaced after 350000km * Fuel injectors not lasting long time average 100000miles - who know how to use those engines injectors last for a very long time - 2Cykle engine oil add to diesel fuel - I adding RedLine 2cykle oil - 1/4 of small bottle of 2cykle redline oil for 100 liters
@@H0kieJoe Red Line or other engine Oils with popular names are only Oils nothing special - many of them do not get approvals to use in modern Gas or Diesel Engines - simple marketings hold simple Joe balls - I see those pro-Joes making horse powers with 10W60 Castrol engine Oil and high octane gas - unrealistic dreams for low life. Simple to eleminate that extra intelligence on the marketing of super miracles to read the Oil container-approved specifications. Lots of them can have written specs and have never been approved. For mother engines Gas or Diesel MB229.52 ( Only can be visible on Oils like 5W30 and 0W40 or 5W40) - to be sure go to Google search write Mercedes Benz approved engine Oils - you get a list of so many Oils approved by Mercedes Benz. Those engine Oils burn very clean means keeping the internal engine very clean. Adding engine Oil to the fuel is not so smart in new types of common rail fuel-injected engines - not going clean injectors only lubricate plus creates the buildup of carbon in the cylinder and injector tips and kills cat or DPF. On old types of Diesel some people use Transmission fluid to clean injector tips from the carbon - was homemade imagination only - some guys add lots of oil to the fuel and feel great. Lots of all kinds of additives on the market to make money and never help. I know people who buy the worst cheap engine oils and pay a fortune for additives to protect cylinder walls and clean injectors. This only can work who believe in miracles. Stay smart and read on oil container specifications which was certified Mercedes Benz - why? because the easiest way to get to the truth. Every car Manufacture showing own smart ass specifications and is impossible to know the means. Mercedes is one and very strict in showing the truth - Every Diesel or Gas engine needs the same engine Oil. This means if you buy Oil with MB specifications MB229.52 you are protected and well lubricated. The newest Engines from many car manufacturers use Rubber belts to drive the Oil pump to make the engine quiet - for them, engine oils are with special chemicals to protect that belt - look at that car manufacturer's oil requirements. To clean injectors ( imagination only) defective injectors need to be removed tested possible fix or replaced with new ones. Modern engines in general with direct injection are the same Gas and types of diesel only different fuels and spark plus or glowplugs. Good engine oils change oils a logical understanding of how we drive Never go as manufacturers tell you - those numbers are political only. Never try to be smarter than the truth.
Now that your new plumbing has been on the vehicle for over 6 months have you checked out the air filter and housing to determine the impact of the blow by gases?
I have replaced this is still sucks in oil. Strange thing is the old one like on the left seem to be better and suck in less oil. I do need a catch can.
I just acquired a 2012 Sprinter that has 100k miles with the OM642 3.0L V6 . The CCV is marked A-642-010-17-91. It may have been changed at least once already; I don't know. So maybe an aftermarket CCV assembly. Thanks for the video. Interested in your suggestion about loosening 4 bolts on the valve cover. Did you have to do that. I watched another video where a guy was having issue and use a pry bar gently to get it going, but he did not loosen any valve cover bolts. Do you know the torque specs for the valve cover bolts? And are there torque specs for the CCV? Also, no mention of using Anti-Seize on the steel bolts into the aluminum block. The factory uses Anti-Seize on all steel bolts into the aluminum block.
You’re pretty awesome. I don’t want a 7 seat gle as I can’t stand the shape. Nor the glb, it looks silly. Gos is too much. I will get gl class 2012/13. By summer. I have to budget for the car & say have at 2k aside for any issues &, keep topping up that maintenance fund. I certainly wouldn’t be able to do any of this myself. It’s too much for me. I hope my mechanic listens to your advice.
I'm not sure if moving that hose before maf sensor is a good idea . You have your catch can to clean the dirty oil . So even if turbo sucks in a bit of oil , it's much cleaner than before
Swirl flap motor failed on my ml35 cdi . I see people are bypassing the motor with 4.7K resistor . Over time does it make any harm to the engine or any other part ?? This oil suction is disaster 😕
I really appreciate you working and fixing the benz in you own way but i am little pessimistic to make changes in something engineered by engineers that know way more than we do. How is the car doing are you still driving it.
Car is doing great and better than ever. We have 5-6K miles since mods. You have too much faith in engineers. Many have never had any hands-on shop experience and never held a screwdriver or changed a light bulb! I dealt with some of them directly. LOL! There are plenty of examples. Just Google it. I am definitely not the very best, but I am far from being an average and that is simply down to a Polish Master mechanic that trained me. He was in turn trained by a German Master mechanic in Germany. I have him to thank for challenging me to find a cause of failures and remedy them before simply replacing parts. That's what "parts exchangers" do.
Yes. I have driven MB diesels for 30 years. Started with a gray market 1984 240D, 1984 300TD-T, 1985 300TD & (2) 1995 E300D’s. All of those are true Mercedes Benz’s. Now we have 2 GL’s. Wife has a 2014 GL450 & I have a 2013 GL350. Both are far from what I’m used to from a company who’s slogan is “Engineered like no other car in the world”. When they were involved with Chrysler they learned how to make money instead of dependable engineering masterpieces. I do enjoy the ride quality of the GL’s but we’ll more than likely never buy another MB & that’s such a shame. At one point I was one of there biggest fans. Like Ridgeback says, many current engineers have never had grease under their fingernails, pencil lead on their fingertips & no manufacturing experience. All their work has been done on a computer. My GL350 was 100% dealer maintained until I got it @ 96k miles. The PO did everything the service advisor suggested and I’ve still spent 6-7 THOUSAND dollars fixing stuff that’s just plain ole’ crappy design work. The PO had to replace the TIMING CHAIN at 76k miles. Think about that my friend. I’d never take up for someone who would engineer that.
@@williamj1969 I feel the same way. 07 gl320 picked up for a song, previous owner couldn’t turn a wrench. I fixed everything myself and currently doing the oil cooler seals and will for sure add a provent. Intake was unbelievably gunked up. Also removed swirl flaps.
Thank you so much for your video. It is greatly appreciated that you share your solution with everyone!! I was going through the photos in your description, great job too. What did you use to clean the carbon and tar built up? You did a great job!
Thanks. Diesel fuel is the best cleaner and light lubricant and not nearly as volatile like parts cleaner or gasoline for keeping in the garage. Final cleaning with Simple Green soak and rinse with water.
Great video...so the small hose going to y intake can be rerouted and installed in air box ahead of filter? what kind of fitting do i need? or do i just drill hole and use that orange seal? thanks in advance
Hi, thanks for this solution . Unfortunately I have not found this Pipe reducer part in Europe. Also this company dont have it on ttheyr web site on stock...
Good job however, that coupling is going to collapse when it gets hot. I did the exact same thing. I fab'd up an aluminum support cage to slide into the coupling. No more deformation or collapsing..
You are right! I don't think I mentioned it. I put a hose from the bottom of the catch can down to the plastic underbody tray with a metal ball valve just sticking through an existing hole. This way I can just stick my hand and open the valve to drain it into any container for disposal. I don't like feeding it back into the oil pan. I know Mann Provent 200 was designed to drain into the oil pan, but any wapor that turned into water could make sludge in the pan.
This is a GREAT video for sure. I am going to do the same for my 2011 GL350 Bluetec. One quick question: Can just leave the Y- intake tube as is and simply block the hole for that original PCV hose? Thanks in advance.
@@ridgebackgarage4580 Thanks for your quick reply. I am thinking also leave the in-line heater there to heat up the air flow as I am in Canada where the winter is cold and long. What do you think? Or should I drill a hole at the Y tube right in front of the Turbo? Really appreciate your opinion. Thanks.
I just blocked mine off with some odd plumbing supplies, no worries, as my Y connector was in good shape. I took the sensor out of the old pipe though, taped it up and left it connected so as not to throw any codes.
Hi, if you change the engine breathing cover A6420100131 do you need to change the piping for PCV? Or it will be all good and no oil will go in intake? Because I can't find where my Mercedes with om642 is losing oil... I changed all places where the oil was leaking and changed the turbo and pcv with no luck... still losing oil. There are no visible places where the oil would go and no smoke at all. Will check this engine breathing cover, hope that this is reason I am losing oil!
I am sure oil is being sucked in by the turbo. Changing PCV "connector" should stop oil according to Mercedes, but common sense and testing with an oil catch can proves them wrong. Suction force from just inches away overpowers the seal in "connector" at higher rpm abd if the seal is old and hardened it won't seal even at idle. Change the "connector" and replace it every 2-3 years as a part of regular maintenance, but for sure reroute it to in front of the air filter to reduce sustion force for complete elimination of the problem. Remember you are not just loosing oil, but creating tar that fauls swirl flaps, fills intercooler with oil and drips it on the accessory belt. If belt breaks you will loose power steering and without that you will crash since steering is all but imposible to turn without working PS. It is a chain reaction with grave consequence. Trust me I towed my GL 3 times! I am stubborn so I fixed it completely instead of taking an easy way out and getting rid of it. Car is payed off and replacement car for my wife would have cost me $30+K new.
@@ridgebackgarage4580 Thank you so much! Today cheaked "connecter" and sure enough it was bad, like really bad... Thanks to you my Mercedes will no longer "eat" oil! Thank you!
Hello, I’m from Germany. I have a G320 cdi an it takes 4-5 l oil per 1000km which is insane. I have read in german forum that the real problem ist not the cover but the centrifuge connected to this cover, inside the head? Couldn’t find prove wether it’s right or not. Part number is A6420503601 Do you have an idea?
hey there, great video, quick question, i have 2014 gl350, do you think it will apply to my car? i see you have done it on x164. not sure whats status on x166. thanks again
Hi,would you help me please? I have tried to change that connector but it's stucked at about half way,just before that the black seal is visible. Should I force it to remove it? Any trick or tips ? Om642930 Thank you in advance
This part before i change eating my oil maybe 1liter on 100 kilometers its crazy , .... my mercedes viano 3.0 diesel v6 , did somebody have the same problem ?
That sounds extremely excessive! Find an oil analysis service company in your country and send a sample from an oil change for analysis. That will give you detailed information on the condition of your engine. Some oil burning from piston ring blow-by is expected and the actual acceptable amount varies from person to person you ask. How many kilometers is on your vehicle? Was maintenance (oil changes) done timely? Maybe your piston rings are worn out? How is the power delivery and do you have any smoke coming out of the exhaust while accelerating? Doing a re-route will drastically reduce your oil consumption for sure, though. Before it, my GL was using roughly 300-400ml per 1000km and I have 240,000km on the car. Now I can barely register any oil loss on the dipstick!
I have added the Provent 200 to my 2013 GL350 and run it back into the stock location. From what I’ve read the major oil consumption issue comes from the lip seal on the fitting that bolts to the back of the head. When I changed mine the seal was as hard as the aluminum housing. I do the same thing for draining the Provent, hose + a hose & ball valve. I get about 2-3 ounces of blow by oil every 3k miles. I still get a TRACE amount of oil at the turbo inlet but it’s really insignificant. The oil cooler seals just let go so I had my mechanic (30+ year MB Mech.) replace them & clean up the intake while there. He was intrigued that the buildup was dry & flaky instead of the normal gooey tar like mess. He is now suggesting the Provent to all of his diesel customers. I believe changing the Provent filter at the suggested 40k miles as well as changing the PCV fitting at the same time will keep the intake clean. I will also be using the motorvac intake cleaning system to keep everything nice and clean.
That is a heater so in theory at extremely cold climates if any vapor/oil turns into ice in that extremely shorth path between PCV and turbo, ice will not chip blades of the turbo. I leave electrical connector to it plugged so it dies not throw any soft codes and zip tied it to a tower bar. If it makes you feel better you can put it in line with PCV bypass hoses.
So I`ve spoken to my mechanic and .... the thing with the soot and the PCV valve have nothing in between. The soot comes from the EGR, so even if you have cleaned it up, it will clog up after some time. to remove the soot you have to delete the EGR but that`s with a cost... your car will heat up way way way slower and you will lose heating in the winter at least for a long time before it starts to blow hot air. The catch can and taking the PCV valve away from the turbo may fix the oil in the intercooler and the leaking on the swirl flap motors but will not fix the soot. Just to have some info from a professional mechanic that has fixed over 1000 of these engines :) No bad feelings. Still, I`ll change the part 0100131 and I`ll clean my intake manifolds next month after the COVID things restrictions are out cuz now I can`t even go out from my home :D
Your mechanic is correct in respect to EGR. Due to the nature of its function, only full delete will stop EGR soot if your local emission laws allow it. Allowing oil ingress (and it is a significant amount if ignored! I was emptying 300-400ml from my catch can every two weeks and some oil was still being sucked in!) through PVC into the combustion process only added to the EGR soot amount. Despite extra oil combustion my EGR and its intake chamber only had light soot dusting and no build-up of any kind. If your EGR is having a lot of build-up and blockage you have excessively rich running condition due to a malfunction or rich tune if performance tuned. "Rolling coal" with functioning EGR will cause its eventual blockage.
Ridgeback, that is what I saw when we had the intake off of my Gl. The EGR & it’s passages close to it were clean with a light dusting. But once you got to the intake & heads, that was a different story. They were probably 25-30% blocked with the oil/soot buildup. Get the oil out & the soot will not have anything to stick to so it’ll just flow on trough.
That is awesome, you are lucky! I think you will at some point develop a leak. Even the best "soft" seals must harden up due to heat and age. It is not all negative having to do it after so many proper miles. You should look at it as an opportunity to get everything cleaned up to like new condition and start fresh. With proper maintenance, there is no reason OM642 should not last 500K miles and outlast the car itself. There are other much more concerning issues with this generation of cars, such as disintegrating plastics of the exterior and interior that cars in this class should not have, period!
I just had my oil cooler seals done at 122k. They went from slightly leaking to putting spots on the tailgate in about 2-3k miles. They were the orange seals and from what I understood they should have been the purple Viton seals after 2010. I’m still a little bewildered at that.....
May have been asked somewhere in the comments, but how did you tap the hose back into the passenger side air intake plastic hose? Is the plastic thick enough to thread a barbed hose end?
I think somebody asked before in the tread, but here it is. I used 1" OD treaded 3" long metal conduit with matching nuts and washers from the electrical aisle of Home Depot.
@@ridgebackgarage4580 ohh that makes sense. Awesome, glad you’re able to solve this. I have the provent which filters a majority of the moisture and oil but it sounds like this is a great cure to keep things dry, engine breathing full and prolonging the ol girl! Awesome work
Hi mate thanks for your video, I have got w221 320 cdi v6 om642 while I disconnect the pcv valve pipe from the turbo it blow white smoke 💨? Do you think what do I have to do with that ? also in traffic light while I move i can see there is blue smoke from rea the exhaust during acceleration
Hi Ivan, thank you for the video! I just bought a used 2012 GL350, and want to clean everything up before I start using it. I wanted to replace the PCV valve, but now will replace the connector piece you mentioned as well. Will replacing the valve and the connector without rerouting the vaccuum side still have a positive effect? I am not a mechanic, I just spent some time trying to understand what a PCV valve does. My understanding is that it uses the vacuum created by the engine to suck out gasses from the crank case. So it is almost certain that there should be garbage pulled out. If that is correct, wouldn't it mean that by reducing the amount of vacuum (by making the length air has to travel greater), you are reducing the amount of gasses being pulled out? I.e. yes you will have less gunk show up in the intake manifold, but more will end up mixing with oil in crankcase and creating sludge? I'm not trying to argue, just trying to understand, so I can make an informed decision before making making a decision.
Hi Mikhail, PCV is basically a one way valve allowing gasses and vapor out from the crankase. There is no "junk" per say just blow by and oily condensation. Changing "connector" is a temporary fix since seal on it is more like skirt than a seal. Reducing vacuum is the only long term fix IMO. It was really ridiculous to have turbo just centimeter from the PCV valve to begin with. That oily mess turbo sucks in fauls swirl flaps and fill intercooler with oil and water mix. Without that mess EGR would only have a thin layer of dry soot instead of sticky "tar", too.
@Ridgeback Garage, hi mate sorry just for curiosity are you in UK?? I'm interested to find someone who can help me to do that, I'm based in London, let me know thanks
Hello, this is A6420100131, is this a sealant? I understand that this goes on the camshaft? Is it designed to throw as much oil as possible under the valve cover?
No, this is the part number for the breather cover piece that fits in the back. You see the old one next to the new one sitting on the radiator support.
I have a 2008 Mercedes 320 GL in the problem is cranks. It won’t start until I use. The ether runs fine no problem at all but as soon as I turn it off it won’t start again I had to put it ether again, replaced the high-pressure fuel pump And is still doing the same thing any recommendation I will appreciate by the way, I don’t have no codes
Stevemoreno7892 Try unplugging the sensor next to the turbo. The darn thing stops the engine from starting when it goes bad and unplugging it allows the engine to start. Drove me nuts for months
@@hackprine5691 yes, most pcv valves will close if there is too much suction... and open again when crankcase pressure gets too high (at same high turbo suction) to protect crank seals from blowing out. The high suction is still what draws too much oil... I'm more familiar with vw engines. The video creator is correct / had a good idea of relocating the pcv entry into the front of the air filter box. Pcv can still breathe / vent... but at a level that is not forced (less influence from turbo), resulting in less oil being ingested / sucked up out of the cam cover.
Do you recommend modifying the oil/separator PCV valve unit? perhaps removing the spring and valve seal to allow for less restriction of blowby gasses? or nor?
It compares the pressure difference from before and after the particulate filter located after the catalytic converter and triggers "regen" cycle which burns deposits by injecting more diesel fuel (richer mixture). It is located under the car where the driveshaft is connected to the transmission. There are few different revisions to the part over the years. This is the last one I am aware of. P/N: A 006 153 95 28.
Hi can i please ask im looking to fit this oil separator i want to ask can u add picture how to connect the oil seperator which pipe from and to have to go and also how did you manage to locate that hose from pcv valve to the air filter did you put under the engine or through side of the engine? Many thanks
The video image shows the rubber hose disconnected from PCV valve. I am no longer using fancy plastic engine cover. It is useless and a product of designers for esthetics. It provides some noise reduction, but it traps excessive heat from the turbo which is slowly destroying rubber and plastic parts. The hose goes over the engine and over plastic Y-intake to the PCV valve.
Also want to ask when I leave the car running stationary for example 10min its start coming blue smoke from exhausts it’s enough smoke but when i start driving need just one good acceleration and smoke stop can be this the issue becouse of sucking oil?? I want to change the breather as well that i never change E320cdi v6 2007 202k miles Thnx have a nice day
Sounds like your valve oil stem seals and guides are shot. You need top end rebuild. Does it throw a lot of blue smoke on a first overnight (when it sits for long time) start? Oil accumulated in the heads drains down valves sitting overnight and burns on a fist start.
Questions to rigdgarage Ivan ,that pvc valve # A642 010 01 31,I order this ,is only alu.housing with seal fit and seal round the camshaft ,my previous one have same seal and a little spring plus valve ,this what I order ,is always open direct breath ,is that ok ,or with this model come some other valve behind?, please let me know thanks
Yes the filter gets covered with oil and is detrimental to MAF sensor in the y-pipe. Unless you change you right side filter a lot more frequently, it gets saturated and continues to suck oil
Hi, great video. I really like the idea of re-routing the pipe to prevent excess vacuum from drawing oil through the system. I have a 2014 ML 350 Bluetec. It has the 272 diesel engine, however when I look for this part using 7 zap Mercedes I cannot find this part using my VIN. What model year is your vehicle please and is it Bluetec..? My engine number is 64282641591042 I am very curious as to whether I can do this fix on mine or whether Mercedes have made some slight modifications either before or after...? Thanks again, as posted below, most 'fixes' for the oil into the manifold issue dont cure the basic problem, whereas yours does. Great!
Part found in schematic, it is the same part number as for your vehicle! Cool! I now have the complete PCV unit with hose etc and the Provent can on the shelf. I will get this bit and then do the whole lot in one go. I will split the breather tube at the joiner, blank the end that goes to the turbo, and fire the other end to the provent as you have done. I will use 16mm ID pipe though, and have my adaptor at the Provent end. This way I can use the existing joiner and keep the pipe diameter as small as the original. I can't see crankcase gases freezing as they pass through this system, not even in ski resorts... sensor seems a bit extreme for a combo of water vapour content and sub zero temps from the crank case....
@@johnmallow2879 , the "connector" is the same for all OM642 engines. It is very hard to find in the schematic! I actually never found it there except when I searched the actual part number. It should be replaced as periodic maintenance just like a differential pressure sensor under the car. FYI, it is a bit of work to replace it since you need to loosen up the valve cover and injectors are on the way of valve cover bolts. Take your time, be patient and watch out what you are prying against. Aluminum can crack easily. Good job finding it all.
Hi Ridgeback, do you have the torque settings for the two bolts for this part? Also, do you have the torque for the camshaft cover you had to loosen to get the bolts out, as it nipped them... Many thanks, Rich.
I do not! I just snugged the bolts for it by feel. 9-12 Nm should do it though. Valve cover bolts are done in 3 stages when valve cover gasket is replaced - 4, 6 and final 8 Nm. Since you are not replacing it just going back to 8 Nm should be fine. If you end up with a leak just snug it a bit more, let's say 9 Nm at the most. Just do not shave the treads in the aluminum heads. LOL! You can get access to a full shop manual through emanualsonline.com for Windows or Mac, or alldatadiy.com browser-based for Chrome or Android devices. Cheers, Ivan
Ivan Saban I have subscribed to alldatadiy which seems good value at $50 for 5 years - good information is worth paying for! The torque for the two bolts is listed as 14Nm FYI. I have discovered that the "connector" is at one end of the complete rig I have already bought, so that is good. I have also found that you can buy replacement seals to fit in the mouth of the connector- saving buying a whole new unit. The part number for my VIN is A0149977146. I fully understand and agree with your point about too much vacuum drawing oil through the PCV. This is discussed at length here: www.stephensservice.com/bluetec-diesel-issuesproblems/ which you may have seen already. One thing I have done is bought ACEA E9 oil for mine - he makes a convincing read! I have two questions if you have time: I fully agree that there is too much vacuum ( along with oil that is too thin ) causing the problem. However, the crank case must not become pressurised ( due to blow by ) and a certain amount of vacuum is needed to open the PCV valve. ( I beleive it opens to vacuum on one side rather than pressure on the other...?) so how do we know that the reduced vacuum from the new position from the Provent is providing enough vacuum to open the valve..? How can we be sure that less than 50% is sufficient, particularly when the turbo is not spooled up, at idle say, when blow by will still be happening yet vacuum will be relatively very low.... Second question relates to the Differential Pressure Sensor. You ( and some other posts ) suggest changing it as a service item... Why? How frequently? Should the hoses be changed too? Thanks for talking with me, hope you are all safe there. Cheers, Rich.
@@johnmallow2879 great find there! That guy really knows what he is talking about! Also great find on torque specs and seal p/n! You are the man! For your questions. The spring in the PCV valve is not very strong. It practically keeps the valve closed with the engine off so the smell of oil would be greatly reduced. Blow by is so strong on a diesel it easily overpowers the spring. Since doing all the rerouting I have been checking for leaks and I have none for over 5K miles. If a problem develops it will push seals out and leaks will show themselves, but if there were any, they would have manifested already. I have F250 6.0 Powerstroke and I am running the same set up since they have exactly the same vapor/oil suction problems, believe it or not. LOL! Many call that engine a nightmare. I have zero problems, with a few common sense fixes I made and proper maintenance and it is currently at 300K miles towing 10K lbs toy hauler RV. For DPS, the nature of operation causes it to get slowly plugged up over time because it actually senses the difference in pressure from before diesel particulate filter and after it. The line that is before the particulate filter will eventually clog up. I blow it with compressed air before connecting it to a new sensor. The operation of the sensor is used by ECU in determining when to initiate DPF regeneration. How frequently to change it? That really depends on how frequently your engine requires DPF regeneration. If you are commuting at least 35-45 minutes in each direction daily at fwy speeds you will regenerate far few times in comparison to making frequent 10-15 minute trips where exhaust never gets a chance to reach optimal temperature for self cleaning. If you are somewhere in between do it every 2 maybe 3 years. When sensor plugs up it throws whole bunch of soft and hard codes before eventually putting the car into a limp mode. I was able to shave over $2K off the price of the car because those codes were on! I also specifically searched for 2008 model year since it was without Blue Def (urea) injection which became mandatory from 2009 model year. That can of worms came with entire set of its own issues! Listen, emission systems are add-ons and band aids manufacturers were forced to add in order to pass more strict emission regulations. Those requirements were looming for years before, but the automotive lobby managed to keep postponing implementation through delays for years. LOL! Did you know that around 1885 there were a few electric vehicle developments in USA and Europe, but got railroaded by Rockefeller and oil lobby for pure profit and greed. Imagine if we had over 100 years of electric drivetrain development instead of combustion engine?! If Musk was not as crazy as he is, Tesla would still be a pipe dream! Today is "the 1885" of electric drivetrain future.
Ridgeback Garage Cool glad my finds were useful. There are 2 different seals listed depending on engine number. My p/n may not be correct for you as I have 2014 ML... I agree with all your emissions words. There are other constraints for me here however, principal being the early ML was not a good car! I see the Blue def problems showing on the net, however they are not nearly as widespread as the swirl flap issues caused by the engine rebreathing... The differential pressure valve is a cheap part so I should just swap in a new one and blow clean the old hose lines with compressed air, if i understand you correctly? I have just bought the car, though it is stuck at a closed dealers due to the virus. It has 78000m with a main dealer history, so average 12000 miles per year so far. This is the UK average mileage, however my country is small and densely populated so we have generally clogged roads... I have a gasoline car for my short journeys (E350 Coupé) so the diesel will from my ownership be kept for longer drives and hauling. I agree with your point about electric cars. I think also the oil industry has been sitting on fuel economy improvement patents... A bigger challenge to electric cars is the grid infrastructure. It could not cope with everyone plugging a car in! Speaking of plugs, how did you manage to tee into the air intake pipe? ( for the short run to the Provent ) Did you use some kind of flange fitting from the hardware shop? Do you know about 7 zap? To get exploded drawings and part numbers, put 7 zap mercedes into your browser. Pick the result that includes 'catalogue.' Put in your VIN and click on the box below listing your vehicle. This will take you to the whole enchilada, specific to your VIN! Cheers, Rich.
What I see on the pictures your engine is worn out and has very high blowby. What type of engine oil did you use in this engine? Those engines when used with proper engine oils MB229.52 and change at 7K miles all clean like in new engines. When you used cheap oils, not recommended for this engine, and run forever you getting those problems that you showed on the pictures.
I have a catch can , but you will be draining half a cup of oil every two weeks if used daily. That does not fix the problem. We just have to accept that PCV "connector" needs to be replaced periodically to stop oil ingress at the source of the problem. Cobined with reducing turbo suction force on PCV by placing it before air filter element fully eliminated the problem for good.
@@ridgebackgarage4580 I have catch can too, and I actually added another canister because catch can was full very fast. I'm just thinking to use catch can with breather now instead connecting it back to the intake. There will be no turbo suction from PCV at all in that case. BTW Thanks for sharing this video. I like how you fixed Y intake tube.
@@Mirarty that will stop 90% of oil discharge but you will smell burnt oil all arount the car and especially in your home garage if you leave it vented. Even without changing "connector" just tap in exhaust of your catch can before passenger air filter by the dipstick and you won't have bad smell or oil going into the intaje since suction is drastically reduced. Good luck.
I’ve done same and replaced pcv and keep air filters clean/replaced to try and reduce intake pressure. Anybody got an idea if running something like a provent 200 with a line that drains back to oil pan would work? Maybe with a one way valve in the drain back line?
@@cmack864 I am using Provent 200, but I put a metal ball valve from hardware store at the end of the hose from catch can drain instead. I used to drain it every couple of weeks before replacing "connector" and re-routing catch can exhaust. I did not want a possibility of water from vapor mixed with oil going back into the engine. In Europe it was common to drain it back, but I think they are avoiding it now. Also on OM642 I did not find a suitable existing place to tap in for oil return and did not want to drill into anything.
I am sorry I do not. I found 3/4" electrical conduit pipe, 4" long, threaded on both ends with a nut. Drilled the hole in the plastic intake section and threaded the pipe from inside. The first time I go to the Home Depot, I will get you pictures and part numbers.
@@seankellogg6154 , no. It is a metal conduit in electrical section. You know the metal pipping electrician use to run electrical wiring on the outside of buildings.
I do not think is any worst or better than any other engine. Could have Mercedes engineers done a better job with oil/water separator and oil cooler seal material choice? By all means, but I think there is a lot of deferred maintenance to be blamed for. Automotive industry is pitching 100K maintenance free transmission and engine service intervals yet their own bulletins call for multiple services within that window. Engines are living and breading things that require an upkeep and transmission are no different. I think that with proper care this engine can far outlast a vehicle it is in. Plastics all over vehicles are crap these days since they are a lot more fragile and start decomposing the moment they are removed from a mold. Transmission paired with this engine (722.9) has conductor plate issues with speed sensors getting fouled up with old oil due to lack of timely transmission oil changes. Again, lack of maintenance. Get the car and do all maintenance items as well as oil cooler seals, PCV "connector" and reroute, transmission service and you should be golden.
0:14 "Dreaded OM642" - LOL - only by people who aren't very skilled at auto mechanics. Like a guy that routes crankcase vapors IN FRONT of the air filter so that the air filter can get oil saturated in no time. And WTF are you on about "sucking oil accumulated in the oil cooler"? Seriously? The oil cooler is a brazed-plate heat exchanger with oil on one side and coolant on the other - mounted under the intake manifold. What on Earth do you think this has to do with what you're dealing with here?
Always nice to have somebody doing ALL the hard work and then telling us ALL the secrets. THANKS
Dreaded om642? That engine is great. Mine has over 200k miles and still very much alive. No oil consumption between services.
Same here
I'm sitting at 730km... I think that's 540k miles. Original engine and original transmission to boot. 2011 ML 350 bluetec.
Oil changes every 7000km. Fuel filter every other oil change.
Only piss off is the oil cooler seal is starting to leak for the 3rd time.
@@fundamentallybroken4194 added another 60k miles to mine. Had problems with exhaust manifolds blowing chunks of metal in the turbo.
Oil cooler seals. Have you installed the upgraded purple ones?
@@braa1975 yes, the purple ones are better, I got about 290km out of them. But make no mistake, they will still eventually fail.
300,000 miles on my 2014 gl350 bluetec fucking runs like new still
Thanks for the video. You said dreaded OM642 engine. I have 3 vehicles. All with the same engine. Outside of replacing the oil cooler seals, cleaning the induction system and general maintenance I have had no issues. Please elaborate “dreaded OM642”. Thanks
First and BEST Solution to this craziness! GREAT Job!
Thank you so much for the suggestions! One comment is that, there is something to look out for when plumbing the PCV before the air filter on the passenger side intake. when the engine is off, there is nothing preventing the moisture and other things getting into the hose leading to the CCV. Once the engine is on, CCV starts opening, the moisture and other things might getting into the crankcase although the chance is low. An improved version would be adding some sort of filter there to prevent things getting into it.
Wow, you are such a blessing...I hope you keep us upto date on any other midifications youbmade to your wife's suv...thanks for sharing the knowledge ☝🏾
Hi Ridgeback, here's an update after going through this process myself... and thanks for all the help and advice and for the initial post. I began by buying the whole cahuna, from the metal part shown here plus 8" wiggly pipe through to the connector into the Y piece. This proved useful if expensive £110 GBP. I cut the metal bands holding the 2-piece pipe together ( it has a central allo join connector. I ran my output pipe from this under the batwing to the front of the car where I sited a Provent 200 can. I blocked off the intake to the Y Tube at the turbo, and put insulating tape over the bare sensor which is now hanging free... Carefully managed, the pipe will fit under the batwing. I then installed the rest of the stuff as per ridgeback tho I fired the return pipe into hard plastic and hung the catchcan off the fusebox - my car is a 2014 Bluetec RH drive. Photos should show what I have done. System works brilliantly.... Very very pleased that this oil is no longer going back into the intake and swirl flaps..! Photos should be in here: myalbum.com/album/D4qaix2TpVSj
Awesome. Glad it worked out. I did not know how to add pictures either. I just linked picture folder from Google Images
Ridgeback Garage myalbum.com/album/D4qaix2TpVSj I made an album and put the photos in it to share with you.... Let me know if you can see them Ok!
In your car, the pipe coming out of the oil trap goes back to the air pipe. Doesn't the same thing happen? The oily air goes to the air filter again, at least to a small extent.
@@Elsenferrux I think that's what the Provent catch can is supposed to minimize.
This is Excellent! Engineers don't even measure up!
This makes a lot of sense. Most cars route the PCV in front of the air filters. I had a golf which had the same type of routing directly into the intake and the intake was also very oily.
I did the catch can as per this video and indeed it will make a huge difference. I was consuming oil, replaced the PCV and the oil separator and that reduced but not eliminated the issue. As with all of the other videos, the main issue is suction. If you just route the outlet of the provent to the intake next to the turbo, you are not solving the issue but just further reducing it. You will still gum up the intakes etc. Do the whole thing, and it will seriously reduce oil consumption. If you're in doubt, just pull the inlet into turbo side and you will see oil. Even with new PCV and separator.
I have added the Provent 200 to my 2013 GL350 and run it back into the stock location. From what I’ve read the major oil consumption issue comes from the lip seal on the fitting that bolts to the back of the head. When I changed mine the seal was as hard as the aluminum housing. I do the same thing for draining the Provent, a hose & ball valve. I get about 2-3 ounces of blow by oil every 3k miles. I still get a TRACE amount of oil at the turbo inlet but it’s really insignificant. The oil cooler seals just let go so I had my mechanic (30+ year MB Mech.) replace them & clean up the intake while there. He was intrigued that the buildup was dry & flaky instead of the normal gooey tar like mess. He is now suggesting the Provent to all of his diesel customers. I believe changing the Provent filter at the suggested 40k miles as well as changing the PCV fitting at the same time will keep the intake clean. I will also be using the motorvac intake cleaning system to keep everything nice and clean.
I will definitely try this ... I have to clean manifold and change the flaps bar so I will try and do this ... let's hope my mechanic will want to try this cuz I do not have where to do this my self.
Firstly - a huge thanks for this video, and sharing the experience!!! Could you please explain where you connect that sensor which is near PCV valve, right before the turbo inlet, originally in that "T" connection? I guess I miss it. Thank you for your answer.
I leave electrical connector plugged in so no soft code gets triggered and I zip tied it for the strut tower bar above the engine. This is not a sensor, but in-line heater for the line so there would be no ice buld up hitting blades of the turbo under extreme frezzeing conditions. For huge majority of us that is not a problen and if you re-route PCV in front of the air filter there will be no chance of ice ever getting to the turbo.
Ivane , legendo ....
Thinking outside the box , very good.
Thanks for sharing. I love the solution for the Y pipe.
At time 2.36 oil does not accumulate into the oil cooler but into the Intercooler ( for the air intake after the turbo before the intake manifold)
Wow thank you so much. I am currently running the blow off valve boot idea and that didn't help. So I'm definitely trying this method now.
Great info..
I’m driving a 2008 GL320 I will definitely check out that part and replace, I’ve done the PCV Valve already but the hose still goes to the turbo..
Great video..
Great video. Thank you. My wife and I are planning to do this project to our 2008 GL320. Can you tell us what kind of fitting you used to connect it to the airbox?
Does the outlet on the catch can have to be hooked up in to the air intake hose? can it just be left open thank you for your video its very informative
Good question
Hi roblaeke ! Good video on an important topic of poor design that actually ruins a nice engine ! I did all the things you did, including the Mann catch can, with the same result : Still oil at the turbo inlet and intake system. But two questions to your final solution : 1. Have you checked if the right-hand side (in driving direction) air filter is gooed-up with oil mists ? 2. What happens to the sensor on the original PCV rubber hose, going from the PCV vent to the turbo inlet ?
I don’t think I asked this properly before.
I would love to see the plumbing of the PCV re-routing from the catch can into the air intake feed on the passenger side.
What kind of coupler did you glue / cement inside that plastic on the air feed intake to allow for the hose clamps.
Just put a smaller diameter hose piece into the original pcv valve. In front of the sensor( if you are concerned it being sucked into the turbo)
This reduces vacuum created by the turbo a lot. I went with 4mm hole in the smaller hose piece.
Pcv valve hose*
This will put blow by gasses including oil particles onto the paper air filter element and cause it to clog with oil particles over time.
The suction is reduced so much that barely anything can get that far and besides, with a quality oil catch can such as Mann Provent 200 you are pretty much guaranteed nothin will reach the air filter. Provent 200 has a replaceable filter itself. It is a fully serviceable catch can. In Europe catch cans are the first thing people add to their diesel.
@@ridgebackgarage4580 do you leave the pcv valve in the same spot just add extra hose and go though the oil catch can before entering the air box cheers
Of course it is easy to change the filter when necessary.
To prevent the broken flange, make sure the metal band is snug to thd plastic and use silicone spray to help get it on the turbo. I definitely have oil in my intake so this is useful.
Im very curious how your air filters look after driving and sucking in the fumes?
Talk to BMW Owners all of 90% who installed those special Cans get back to original * What is the most important to understand oil change at max 7000 miles - never go up what manufacture recommends * this all is political - frequent oil change means more spillover more pollution * Governments want everything does not last to a long time - today made engines are designed to last no more as 200.000 miles * I change the oil on my GL every 5000 miles * 70% of owners getting cheap oil change not knowing what kind of oil needs * For those MB Diesels only MB229.52 specification - 0W30 5W30 - 0W40 or 5W40 - MOTUL or MOBIL1 *
Those engines run very hotly - peoples looking on cooling temperature and is very wrong - Internal engine temperature oil and moving parts getting much above cooling temperature * 0W30 5W30 run very fast in the internal lubrication channels what giving so many benefits faster cool and better lubrication for moving parts *** Those light oils have much stronger Film Strenght from conventional 20W50 engine oil ** Those MB Diesel go with no problems 500.000 miles ** Look on statistics those engines was killed at 100.000 miles and why? by smart Joe who changes oil at 20.000 miles plus very cheap and wrong specs and viscosities.
Those oils 0W30 5W30 when to burn very clean - call low ash oils.
Air from Turbo getting up very hot when riching intercooler - after intercooler is about 150F kipping those oil vapors light as steam when getting to the intake manifold and burned very clean ***
Worn engines wrong oils unburned oils getting to EGR this create a killing zone for the engine.*** EGR is used to reduced burning temperature in the cylinder during the combustion process if very high temp producing more Nox gasses *** To give more life to any engine condition need to switch off EGR Valve only *** Can be done by CODING the main computer for a couple of $$$ *** Those oil cans is only a business for those peoples who are selling * Do manufacture not know what means oil separators?
In the right side of Head is a very high tech oil separator *** Some peoples have a personal fantasy of magics with closed eyes can do anything even can please a Queen ** For MB DIESELS up to 2009 early March production have the old type of PCV the Blac Plastic Ventilation of Crankcase the newest VALVEThe PART NUMBER: A6420102391
All from 2009 April production has a new type of VALVE PCV ALUMINIUM different look from the old one 2 x bolt fitting as the adapter for old PCV *** Remember those cars and engines are very good only smart Joe damaging or Garage Joe looking for profit damaging for other one naive Joe grab his money.
Those Old type PCV Valves Black Plastic need to replace max at 50.000 miles *** New type of PCV is for life never needs to be replaced.
What mileage your GL has? Your talkin 642?
@@nico-toscani 145000km 90000 miles
@@nico-toscani On one of Mercedes Forum owner of ML320CDI 500000 miles - no problem to start with only 3 glow plugs * Blutec engine safer from Ad Blue - have to use very light engine oil MB229.52 speck 0W30 or 5W30 ** CDI engines can use 5W40 oil much better for that reason last much longer * Philosophy of drive and how we can understand our way of driving * when we change engine oil on Blutec after 200000 miles that baby not going to last for long time ___ Best of all needs to look on German drivers - average timing chain replaced after 350000km * Fuel injectors not lasting long time average 100000miles - who know how to use those engines injectors last for a very long time - 2Cykle engine oil add to diesel fuel - I adding RedLine 2cykle oil - 1/4 of small bottle of 2cykle redline oil for 100 liters
@@jaguar7051 So the Redline helps lubricate the fuel injectors? Does it help lubricate the fuel pump as well?
@@H0kieJoe Red Line or other engine Oils with popular names are only Oils nothing special - many of them do not get approvals to use in modern Gas or Diesel Engines - simple marketings hold simple Joe balls - I see those pro-Joes making horse powers with 10W60 Castrol engine Oil and high octane gas - unrealistic dreams for low life.
Simple to eleminate that extra intelligence on the marketing of super miracles to read the Oil container-approved specifications.
Lots of them can have written specs and have never been approved.
For mother engines Gas or Diesel MB229.52 ( Only can be visible on Oils like 5W30 and 0W40 or 5W40) - to be sure go to Google search write Mercedes Benz approved engine Oils - you get a list of so many Oils approved by Mercedes Benz.
Those engine Oils burn very clean means keeping the internal engine very clean.
Adding engine Oil to the fuel is not so smart in new types of common rail fuel-injected engines - not going clean injectors only lubricate plus creates the buildup of carbon in the cylinder and injector tips and kills cat or DPF.
On old types of Diesel some people use Transmission fluid to clean injector tips from the carbon - was homemade imagination only - some guys add lots of oil to the fuel and feel great.
Lots of all kinds of additives on the market to make money and never help.
I know people who buy the worst cheap engine oils and pay a fortune for additives to protect cylinder walls and clean injectors.
This only can work who believe in miracles.
Stay smart and read on oil container specifications which was certified Mercedes Benz - why? because the easiest way to get to the truth.
Every car Manufacture showing own smart ass specifications and is impossible to know the means.
Mercedes is one and very strict in showing the truth - Every Diesel or Gas engine needs the same engine Oil.
This means if you buy Oil with MB specifications MB229.52 you are protected and well lubricated.
The newest Engines from many car manufacturers use Rubber belts to drive the Oil pump to make the engine quiet - for them, engine oils are with special chemicals to protect that belt - look at that car manufacturer's oil requirements.
To clean injectors ( imagination only) defective injectors need to be removed tested possible fix or replaced with new ones.
Modern engines in general with direct injection are the same Gas and types of diesel only different fuels and spark plus or glowplugs.
Good engine oils change oils a logical understanding of how we drive
Never go as manufacturers tell you - those numbers are political only.
Never try to be smarter than the truth.
iarna nu ingheata apa si gazele condensate ?in recipientul de conectare eu am avut aceasta problema
Legend!!!! Going to sort my c320 cdi stage 2 out now i know what to do . Thanks
Now that your new plumbing has been on the vehicle for over 6 months have you checked out the air filter and housing to determine the impact of the blow by gases?
Good question.
I have replaced this is still sucks in oil. Strange thing is the old one like on the left seem to be better and suck in less oil. I do need a catch can.
I have the same oil sucking issue on a 2012 W221 S350. I am going to do what you did. Thanks
Can you do a video on replacing the camshaft seal?
I just acquired a 2012 Sprinter that has 100k miles with the OM642 3.0L V6 . The CCV is marked A-642-010-17-91. It may have been changed at least once already; I don't know. So maybe an aftermarket CCV assembly. Thanks for the video. Interested in your suggestion about loosening 4 bolts on the valve cover. Did you have to do that. I watched another video where a guy was having issue and use a pry bar gently to get it going, but he did not loosen any valve cover bolts. Do you know the torque specs for the valve cover bolts? And are there torque specs for the CCV? Also, no mention of using Anti-Seize on the steel bolts into the aluminum block. The factory uses Anti-Seize on all steel bolts into the aluminum block.
You’re pretty awesome. I don’t want a 7 seat gle as I can’t stand the shape. Nor the glb, it looks silly. Gos is too much. I will get gl class 2012/13. By summer. I have to budget for the car & say have at 2k aside for any issues &, keep topping up that maintenance fund.
I certainly wouldn’t be able to do any of this myself. It’s too much for me. I hope my mechanic listens to your advice.
Can you not vent the gasses off to air via a catch can then blank the inlet by the turbo
I'm not sure if moving that hose before maf sensor is a good idea . You have your catch can to clean the dirty oil . So even if turbo sucks in a bit of oil , it's much cleaner than before
sweet idea🍻can you send me links to the parts you used for this thanks
Swirl flap motor failed on my ml35 cdi . I see people are bypassing the motor with 4.7K resistor . Over time does it make any harm to the engine or any other part ??
This oil suction is disaster 😕
I really appreciate you working and fixing the benz in you own way but i am little pessimistic to make changes in something engineered by engineers that know way more than we do. How is the car doing are you still driving it.
Car is doing great and better than ever. We have 5-6K miles since mods. You have too much faith in engineers. Many have never had any hands-on shop experience and never held a screwdriver or changed a light bulb! I dealt with some of them directly. LOL! There are plenty of examples. Just Google it. I am definitely not the very best, but I am far from being an average and that is simply down to a Polish Master mechanic that trained me. He was in turn trained by a German Master mechanic in Germany. I have him to thank for challenging me to find a cause of failures and remedy them before simply replacing parts. That's what "parts exchangers" do.
@@ridgebackgarage4580 You're from Poland?
@@nico-toscani Croatian, but in USA for over 30 years.
Yes. I have driven MB diesels for 30 years. Started with a gray market 1984 240D, 1984 300TD-T, 1985 300TD & (2) 1995 E300D’s. All of those are true Mercedes Benz’s. Now we have 2 GL’s. Wife has a 2014 GL450 & I have a 2013 GL350. Both are far from what I’m used to from a company who’s slogan is “Engineered like no other car in the world”. When they were involved with Chrysler they learned how to make money instead of dependable engineering masterpieces. I do enjoy the ride quality of the GL’s but we’ll more than likely never buy another MB & that’s such a shame. At one point I was one of there biggest fans. Like Ridgeback says, many current engineers have never had grease under their fingernails, pencil lead on their fingertips & no manufacturing experience. All their work has been done on a computer. My GL350 was 100% dealer maintained until I got it @ 96k miles. The PO did everything the service advisor suggested and I’ve still spent 6-7 THOUSAND dollars fixing stuff that’s just plain ole’ crappy design work. The PO had to replace the TIMING CHAIN at 76k miles. Think about that my friend. I’d never take up for someone who would engineer that.
@@williamj1969 I feel the same way. 07 gl320 picked up for a song, previous owner couldn’t turn a wrench. I fixed everything myself and currently doing the oil cooler seals and will for sure add a provent. Intake was unbelievably gunked up. Also removed swirl flaps.
Thank you so much for your video. It is greatly appreciated that you share your solution with everyone!! I was going through the photos in your description, great job too. What did you use to clean the carbon and tar built up? You did a great job!
Thanks. Diesel fuel is the best cleaner and light lubricant and not nearly as volatile like parts cleaner or gasoline for keeping in the garage. Final cleaning with Simple Green soak and rinse with water.
Great video...so the small hose going to y intake can be rerouted and installed in air box ahead of filter? what kind of fitting do i need? or do i just drill hole and use that orange seal? thanks in advance
Great video - how did you connect the pro vent to intake air duct in front of the air filter?
Hi, thanks for this solution . Unfortunately I have not found this Pipe reducer part in Europe. Also this company dont have it on ttheyr web site on stock...
Good job however, that coupling is going to collapse when it gets hot. I did the exact same thing.
I fab'd up an aluminum support cage to slide into the coupling. No more deformation or collapsing..
Hi can please guide me where i connect the sensor. Thanks
Do you really have to lift the valve cover to get this removed?
Never got an answer?
So what is you solution the Connector or the plumbing into the one air filter
Where can find the part for the Oil Catch Can
Hi, not sure if you have already mentioned it but where did you run the oil from the ProVent 200 back to? Great video by the way!
You are right! I don't think I mentioned it. I put a hose from the bottom of the catch can down to the plastic underbody tray with a metal ball valve just sticking through an existing hole. This way I can just stick my hand and open the valve to drain it into any container for disposal. I don't like feeding it back into the oil pan. I know Mann Provent 200 was designed to drain into the oil pan, but any wapor that turned into water could make sludge in the pan.
Does this apply to Sprinter OM642s as well?
what is the part number for the seal housing please🙏
Brilliant idea indeed 👍
This is a GREAT video for sure. I am going to do the same for my 2011 GL350 Bluetec. One quick question: Can just leave the Y- intake tube as is and simply block the hole for that original PCV hose? Thanks in advance.
Yes you can.
@@ridgebackgarage4580 Thanks for your quick reply. I am thinking also leave the in-line heater there to heat up the air flow as I am in Canada where the winter is cold and long. What do you think? Or should I drill a hole at the Y tube right in front of the Turbo? Really appreciate your opinion. Thanks.
I just blocked mine off with some odd plumbing supplies, no worries, as my Y connector was in good shape. I took the sensor out of the old pipe though, taped it up and left it connected so as not to throw any codes.
Why dreaded OM642? It was build in high volumen and is inside many mercedes cars and reaches high milage before breaking so not too bad engine :-)
Hi, if you change the engine breathing cover A6420100131 do you need to change the piping for PCV? Or it will be all good and no oil will go in intake? Because I can't find where my Mercedes with om642 is losing oil... I changed all places where the oil was leaking and changed the turbo and pcv with no luck... still losing oil. There are no visible places where the oil would go and no smoke at all. Will check this engine breathing cover, hope that this is reason I am losing oil!
I am sure oil is being sucked in by the turbo. Changing PCV "connector" should stop oil according to Mercedes, but common sense and testing with an oil catch can proves them wrong. Suction force from just inches away overpowers the seal in "connector" at higher rpm abd if the seal is old and hardened it won't seal even at idle. Change the "connector" and replace it every 2-3 years as a part of regular maintenance, but for sure reroute it to in front of the air filter to reduce sustion force for complete elimination of the problem. Remember you are not just loosing oil, but creating tar that fauls swirl flaps, fills intercooler with oil and drips it on the accessory belt. If belt breaks you will loose power steering and without that you will crash since steering is all but imposible to turn without working PS. It is a chain reaction with grave consequence. Trust me I towed my GL 3 times! I am stubborn so I fixed it completely instead of taking an easy way out and getting rid of it. Car is payed off and replacement car for my wife would have cost me $30+K new.
@@ridgebackgarage4580 Thank you so much! Today cheaked "connecter" and sure enough it was bad, like really bad... Thanks to you my Mercedes will no longer "eat" oil! Thank you!
Hello, I’m from Germany. I have a G320 cdi an it takes 4-5 l oil per 1000km which is insane. I have read in german forum that the real problem ist not the cover but the centrifuge connected to this cover, inside the head? Couldn’t find prove wether it’s right or not. Part number is A6420503601
Do you have an idea?
hey there, great video, quick question, i have 2014 gl350, do you think it will apply to my car? i see you have done it on x164. not sure whats status on x166. thanks again
How much oil was your car burining before this fix and now after this fix? did it fix oil consumption? THANK YOU
Hi,would you help me please? I have tried to change that connector but it's stucked at about half way,just before that the black seal is visible. Should I force it to remove it? Any trick or tips ? Om642930 Thank you in advance
Recently mine om642 smoke white steam mixed with ash when push throttle harder. coolant drops by 100 ml so far. Any ideas😮
This part before i change eating my oil maybe 1liter on 100 kilometers its crazy , .... my mercedes viano 3.0 diesel v6 , did somebody have the same problem ?
That sounds extremely excessive! Find an oil analysis service company in your country and send a sample from an oil change for analysis. That will give you detailed information on the condition of your engine. Some oil burning from piston ring blow-by is expected and the actual acceptable amount varies from person to person you ask. How many kilometers is on your vehicle? Was maintenance (oil changes) done timely? Maybe your piston rings are worn out? How is the power delivery and do you have any smoke coming out of the exhaust while accelerating? Doing a re-route will drastically reduce your oil consumption for sure, though. Before it, my GL was using roughly 300-400ml per 1000km and I have 240,000km on the car. Now I can barely register any oil loss on the dipstick!
I try to fix my oil rings by new system , this weekend and i put video and we see what hapent after :)
Hi, you fix the problem?
@@vaidasvaidas9554 pavyko sutvarkyt problema?
I have added the Provent 200 to my 2013 GL350 and run it back into the stock location. From what I’ve read the major oil consumption issue comes from the lip seal on the fitting that bolts to the back of the head. When I changed mine the seal was as hard as the aluminum housing. I do the same thing for draining the Provent, hose + a hose & ball valve. I get about 2-3 ounces of blow by oil every 3k miles. I still get a TRACE amount of oil at the turbo inlet but it’s really insignificant. The oil cooler seals just let go so I had my mechanic (30+ year MB Mech.) replace them & clean up the intake while there. He was intrigued that the buildup was dry & flaky instead of the normal gooey tar like mess. He is now suggesting the Provent to all of his diesel customers. I believe changing the Provent filter at the suggested 40k miles as well as changing the PCV fitting at the same time will keep the intake clean. I will also be using the motorvac intake cleaning system to keep everything nice and clean.
There is a sensor at the inlet of the PVC where it sets in the intake in front of the turbo inlet.....??? right?? so what did you do with that???
That is a heater so in theory at extremely cold climates if any vapor/oil turns into ice in that extremely shorth path between PCV and turbo, ice will not chip blades of the turbo. I leave electrical connector to it plugged so it dies not throw any soft codes and zip tied it to a tower bar. If it makes you feel better you can put it in line with PCV bypass hoses.
@@ridgebackgarage4580 What makes me feel better is no fault codes.......
So I`ve spoken to my mechanic and .... the thing with the soot and the PCV valve have nothing in between. The soot comes from the EGR, so even if you have cleaned it up, it will clog up after some time. to remove the soot you have to delete the EGR but that`s with a cost... your car will heat up way way way slower and you will lose heating in the winter at least for a long time before it starts to blow hot air. The catch can and taking the PCV valve away from the turbo may fix the oil in the intercooler and the leaking on the swirl flap motors but will not fix the soot. Just to have some info from a professional mechanic that has fixed over 1000 of these engines :) No bad feelings. Still, I`ll change the part 0100131 and I`ll clean my intake manifolds next month after the COVID things restrictions are out cuz now I can`t even go out from my home :D
Your mechanic is correct in respect to EGR. Due to the nature of its function, only full delete will stop EGR soot if your local emission laws allow it. Allowing oil ingress (and it is a significant amount if ignored! I was emptying 300-400ml from my catch can every two weeks and some oil was still being sucked in!) through PVC into the combustion process only added to the EGR soot amount. Despite extra oil combustion my EGR and its intake chamber only had light soot dusting and no build-up of any kind. If your EGR is having a lot of build-up and blockage you have excessively rich running condition due to a malfunction or rich tune if performance tuned. "Rolling coal" with functioning EGR will cause its eventual blockage.
Ridgeback, that is what I saw when we had the intake off of my Gl. The EGR & it’s passages close to it were clean with a light dusting. But once you got to the intake & heads, that was a different story. They were probably 25-30% blocked with the oil/soot buildup. Get the oil out & the soot will not have anything to stick to so it’ll just flow on trough.
is it a possibility that you are venting oil vapour into the air filter?
Yes of course. That's what a PCV valve does.
i have a 2007 3.0 diesel mercedes sprinter van.
is this part the same i need on my van?
Yes sir, Provent 200. You’ll be surprised at what it catches!
where are you located?
would you be willing to install for me that i can pay you?
Any other tips! Can the oil cooler sealers not fail if you keep up oil changes or will they go soon 90,000 so far my other ml had no oil leaks 130,000
That is awesome, you are lucky! I think you will at some point develop a leak. Even the best "soft" seals must harden up due to heat and age. It is not all negative having to do it after so many proper miles. You should look at it as an opportunity to get everything cleaned up to like new condition and start fresh. With proper maintenance, there is no reason OM642 should not last 500K miles and outlast the car itself. There are other much more concerning issues with this generation of cars, such as disintegrating plastics of the exterior and interior that cars in this class should not have, period!
I just had my oil cooler seals done at 122k. They went from slightly leaking to putting spots on the tailgate in about 2-3k miles. They were the orange seals and from what I understood they should have been the purple Viton seals after 2010. I’m still a little bewildered at that.....
Any updates on the catch can and pvc reroute. Any codes?
someone had a positive experience with fuel consumption after replacing the pcv?
I asked the original poster also if there was any reduction on oil consumption.
This will only help with oil mist...
If the engine was caked up by this you need to take apart and clean the whole engine which sock
May have been asked somewhere in the comments, but how did you tap the hose back into the passenger side air intake plastic hose? Is the plastic thick enough to thread a barbed hose end?
I think somebody asked before in the tread, but here it is. I used 1" OD treaded 3" long metal conduit with matching nuts and washers from the electrical aisle of Home Depot.
@@ridgebackgarage4580 ohh that makes sense. Awesome, glad you’re able to solve this. I have the provent which filters a majority of the moisture and oil but it sounds like this is a great cure to keep things dry, engine breathing full and prolonging the ol girl! Awesome work
Hi mate thanks for your video, I have got w221 320 cdi v6 om642 while I disconnect the pcv valve pipe from the turbo it blow white smoke 💨? Do you think what do I have to do with that ? also in traffic light while I move i can see there is blue smoke from rea the exhaust during acceleration
Hi Ivan, thank you for the video! I just bought a used 2012 GL350, and want to clean everything up before I start using it. I wanted to replace the PCV valve, but now will replace the connector piece you mentioned as well. Will replacing the valve and the connector without rerouting the vaccuum side still have a positive effect?
I am not a mechanic, I just spent some time trying to understand what a PCV valve does. My understanding is that it uses the vacuum created by the engine to suck out gasses from the crank case. So it is almost certain that there should be garbage pulled out. If that is correct, wouldn't it mean that by reducing the amount of vacuum (by making the length air has to travel greater), you are reducing the amount of gasses being pulled out? I.e. yes you will have less gunk show up in the intake manifold, but more will end up mixing with oil in crankcase and creating sludge?
I'm not trying to argue, just trying to understand, so I can make an informed decision before making making a decision.
Hi Mikhail, PCV is basically a one way valve allowing gasses and vapor out from the crankase. There is no "junk" per say just blow by and oily condensation. Changing "connector" is a temporary fix since seal on it is more like skirt than a seal. Reducing vacuum is the only long term fix IMO. It was really ridiculous to have turbo just centimeter from the PCV valve to begin with. That oily mess turbo sucks in fauls swirl flaps and fill intercooler with oil and water mix. Without that mess EGR would only have a thin layer of dry soot instead of sticky "tar", too.
@Ridgeback Garage, hi mate sorry just for curiosity are you in UK?? I'm interested to find someone who can help me to do that, I'm based in London, let me know thanks
Hello, this is A6420100131, is this a sealant? I understand that this goes on the camshaft? Is it designed to throw as much oil as possible under the valve cover?
No, this is the part number for the breather cover piece that fits in the back. You see the old one next to the new one sitting on the radiator support.
I have a 2008 Mercedes 320 GL in the problem is cranks. It won’t start until I use. The ether runs fine no problem at all but as soon as I turn it off it won’t start again I had to put it ether again, replaced the high-pressure fuel pump And is still doing the same thing any recommendation I will appreciate by the way, I don’t have no codes
Stevemoreno7892
Try unplugging the sensor next to the turbo.
The darn thing stops the engine from starting when it goes bad and unplugging it allows the engine to start.
Drove me nuts for months
Doesn't the EGR contribute to soot in the intake, and turbo?? even more than the PCV??
The soot can't stick if there's no oil. So addressing the oil (from the pcv) is the first step.
@@EXOVCDS But the pcv closes upon turbo suction... if you know what I mean....
@@hackprine5691 yes, most pcv valves will close if there is too much suction... and open again when crankcase pressure gets too high (at same high turbo suction) to protect crank seals from blowing out. The high suction is still what draws too much oil... I'm more familiar with vw engines. The video creator is correct / had a good idea of relocating the pcv entry into the front of the air filter box. Pcv can still breathe / vent... but at a level that is not forced (less influence from turbo), resulting in less oil being ingested / sucked up out of the cam cover.
Do you recommend modifying the oil/separator PCV valve unit? perhaps removing the spring and valve seal to allow for less restriction of blowby gasses? or nor?
Just leave it. PCV itself is not the problem and removing the spring would cause open system and excessive fumes while parked.
How are you able to get enough leverage to push that part that the PCV connects to?
how can you loosen up the valve cover when the injectors are still there a d keeping that thing tight?
Really easy. Only need to loosen up the first four bolts and then the connector will slide out. I just did mine today.
In your video you mentioned the differential pressure sensor. What does it do and what is the part number?
It compares the pressure difference from before and after the particulate filter located after the catalytic converter and triggers "regen" cycle which burns deposits by injecting more diesel fuel (richer mixture). It is located under the car where the driveshaft is connected to the transmission. There are few different revisions to the part over the years. This is the last one I am aware of. P/N: A 006 153 95 28.
@@ridgebackgarage4580
Do you have the part number?
Hi can i please ask im looking to fit this oil separator i want to ask can u add picture how to connect the oil seperator which pipe from and to have to go and also how did you manage to locate that hose from pcv valve to the air filter did you put under the engine or through side of the engine? Many thanks
The video image shows the rubber hose disconnected from PCV valve. I am no longer using fancy plastic engine cover. It is useless and a product of designers for esthetics. It provides some noise reduction, but it traps excessive heat from the turbo which is slowly destroying rubber and plastic parts. The hose goes over the engine and over plastic Y-intake to the PCV valve.
Hi im planning to instal a catch can on my 2012 gl350. Any issues you had since you posted this video?
I’d give u 10 thumbs up if I could.
Is this the same on my 2014 GL350
Retorquing valve cover do not lead to any oil leaks?
Not at all
Also want to ask when I leave the car running stationary for example 10min its start coming blue smoke from exhausts it’s enough smoke but when i start driving need just one good acceleration and smoke stop can be this the issue becouse of sucking oil?? I want to change the breather as well that i never change
E320cdi v6 2007
202k miles
Thnx have a nice day
Sounds like your valve oil stem seals and guides are shot. You need top end rebuild. Does it throw a lot of blue smoke on a first overnight (when it sits for long time) start? Oil accumulated in the heads drains down valves sitting overnight and burns on a fist start.
For e280 cdi om642920?
Questions to rigdgarage Ivan ,that pvc valve # A642 010 01 31,I order this ,is only alu.housing with seal fit and seal round the camshaft ,my previous one have same seal and a little spring plus valve ,this what I order ,is always open direct breath ,is that ok ,or with this model come some other valve behind?, please let me know thanks
What about air filter, is it covered with oil?
Yes the filter gets covered with oil and is detrimental to MAF sensor in the y-pipe. Unless you change you right side filter a lot more frequently, it gets saturated and continues to suck oil
It a good video. But would have been awesome if you could have physically demonstrate the fix.
Hi, great video. I really like the idea of re-routing the pipe to prevent excess vacuum from drawing oil through the system. I have a 2014 ML 350 Bluetec. It has the 272 diesel engine, however when I look for this part using 7 zap Mercedes I cannot find this part using my VIN. What model year is your vehicle please and is it Bluetec..? My engine number is 64282641591042 I am very curious as to whether I can do this fix on mine or whether Mercedes have made some slight modifications either before or after...? Thanks again, as posted below, most 'fixes' for the oil into the manifold issue dont cure the basic problem, whereas yours does. Great!
Part found in schematic, it is the same part number as for your vehicle! Cool! I now have the complete PCV unit with hose etc and the Provent can on the shelf. I will get this bit and then do the whole lot in one go. I will split the breather tube at the joiner, blank the end that goes to the turbo, and fire the other end to the provent as you have done. I will use 16mm ID pipe though, and have my adaptor at the Provent end. This way I can use the existing joiner and keep the pipe diameter as small as the original. I can't see crankcase gases freezing as they pass through this system, not even in ski resorts... sensor seems a bit extreme for a combo of water vapour content and sub zero temps from the crank case....
@@johnmallow2879 , the "connector" is the same for all OM642 engines. It is very hard to find in the schematic! I actually never found it there except when I searched the actual part number. It should be replaced as periodic maintenance just like a differential pressure sensor under the car. FYI, it is a bit of work to replace it since you need to loosen up the valve cover and injectors are on the way of valve cover bolts. Take your time, be patient and watch out what you are prying against. Aluminum can crack easily. Good job finding it all.
I'm glad you see what I'm seeing being a new owner of a 05 e320cdi om642.
Many cheap ideas, and quite literally stupid ideas.
Nice engine nonetheless.
Hi Ridgeback, do you have the torque settings for the two bolts for this part? Also, do you have the torque for the camshaft cover you had to loosen to get the bolts out, as it nipped them... Many thanks, Rich.
I do not! I just snugged the bolts for it by feel. 9-12 Nm should do it though. Valve cover bolts are done in 3 stages when valve cover gasket is replaced - 4, 6 and final 8 Nm. Since you are not replacing it just going back to 8 Nm should be fine. If you end up with a leak just snug it a bit more, let's say 9 Nm at the most. Just do not shave the treads in the aluminum heads. LOL! You can get access to a full shop manual through emanualsonline.com for Windows or Mac, or alldatadiy.com browser-based for Chrome or Android devices. Cheers, Ivan
Ivan Saban Thanks Ivan, I will do this work and let you and your subscribers know how it went. Just need lockdown over in the UK first..!
Ivan Saban I have subscribed to alldatadiy which seems good value at $50 for 5 years - good information is worth paying for! The torque for the two bolts is listed as 14Nm FYI. I have discovered that the "connector" is at one end of the complete rig I have already bought, so that is good. I have also found that you can buy replacement seals to fit in the mouth of the connector- saving buying a whole new unit. The part number for my VIN is A0149977146. I fully understand and agree with your point about too much vacuum drawing oil through the PCV. This is discussed at length here: www.stephensservice.com/bluetec-diesel-issuesproblems/ which you may have seen already. One thing I have done is bought ACEA E9 oil for mine - he makes a convincing read! I have two questions if you have time: I fully agree that there is too much vacuum ( along with oil that is too thin ) causing the problem. However, the crank case must not become pressurised ( due to blow by ) and a certain amount of vacuum is needed to open the PCV valve. ( I beleive it opens to vacuum on one side rather than pressure on the other...?) so how do we know that the reduced vacuum from the new position from the Provent is providing enough vacuum to open the valve..? How can we be sure that less than 50% is sufficient, particularly when the turbo is not spooled up, at idle say, when blow by will still be happening yet vacuum will be relatively very low.... Second question relates to the Differential Pressure Sensor. You ( and some other posts ) suggest changing it as a service item... Why? How frequently? Should the hoses be changed too? Thanks for talking with me, hope you are all safe there. Cheers, Rich.
@@johnmallow2879 great find there! That guy really knows what he is talking about! Also great find on torque specs and seal p/n! You are the man! For your questions. The spring in the PCV valve is not very strong. It practically keeps the valve closed with the engine off so the smell of oil would be greatly reduced. Blow by is so strong on a diesel it easily overpowers the spring. Since doing all the rerouting I have been checking for leaks and I have none for over 5K miles. If a problem develops it will push seals out and leaks will show themselves, but if there were any, they would have manifested already. I have F250 6.0 Powerstroke and I am running the same set up since they have exactly the same vapor/oil suction problems, believe it or not. LOL! Many call that engine a nightmare. I have zero problems, with a few common sense fixes I made and proper maintenance and it is currently at 300K miles towing 10K lbs toy hauler RV. For DPS, the nature of operation causes it to get slowly plugged up over time because it actually senses the difference in pressure from before diesel particulate filter and after it. The line that is before the particulate filter will eventually clog up. I blow it with compressed air before connecting it to a new sensor. The operation of the sensor is used by ECU in determining when to initiate DPF regeneration. How frequently to change it? That really depends on how frequently your engine requires DPF regeneration. If you are commuting at least 35-45 minutes in each direction daily at fwy speeds you will regenerate far few times in comparison to making frequent 10-15 minute trips where exhaust never gets a chance to reach optimal temperature for self cleaning. If you are somewhere in between do it every 2 maybe 3 years. When sensor plugs up it throws whole bunch of soft and hard codes before eventually putting the car into a limp mode. I was able to shave over $2K off the price of the car because those codes were on! I also specifically searched for 2008 model year since it was without Blue Def (urea) injection which became mandatory from 2009 model year. That can of worms came with entire set of its own issues! Listen, emission systems are add-ons and band aids manufacturers were forced to add in order to pass more strict emission regulations. Those requirements were looming for years before, but the automotive lobby managed to keep postponing implementation through delays for years. LOL! Did you know that around 1885 there were a few electric vehicle developments in USA and Europe, but got railroaded by Rockefeller and oil lobby for pure profit and greed. Imagine if we had over 100 years of electric drivetrain development instead of combustion engine?! If Musk was not as crazy as he is, Tesla would still be a pipe dream! Today is "the 1885" of electric drivetrain future.
Ridgeback Garage Cool glad my finds were useful. There are 2 different seals listed depending on engine number. My p/n may not be correct for you as I have 2014 ML... I agree with all your emissions words. There are other constraints for me here however, principal being the early ML was not a good car! I see the Blue def problems showing on the net, however they are not nearly as widespread as the swirl flap issues caused by the engine rebreathing...
The differential pressure valve is a cheap part so I should just swap in a new one and blow clean the old hose lines with compressed air, if i understand you correctly? I have just bought the car, though it is stuck at a closed dealers due to the virus. It has 78000m with a main dealer history, so average 12000 miles per year so far. This is the UK average mileage, however my country is small and densely populated so we have generally clogged roads... I have a gasoline car for my short journeys (E350 Coupé) so the diesel will from my ownership be kept for longer drives and hauling.
I agree with your point about electric cars. I think also the oil industry has been sitting on fuel economy improvement patents... A bigger challenge to electric cars is the grid infrastructure. It could not cope with everyone plugging a car in!
Speaking of plugs, how did you manage to tee into the air intake pipe? ( for the short run to the Provent ) Did you use some kind of flange fitting from the hardware shop?
Do you know about 7 zap? To get exploded drawings and part numbers, put 7 zap mercedes into your browser. Pick the result that includes 'catalogue.' Put in your VIN and click on the box below listing your vehicle. This will take you to the whole enchilada, specific to your VIN!
Cheers, Rich.
What I see on the pictures your engine is worn out and has very high blowby.
What type of engine oil did you use in this engine?
Those engines when used with proper engine oils MB229.52 and change at 7K miles all clean like in new engines.
When you used cheap oils, not recommended for this engine, and run forever you getting those problems that you showed on the pictures.
Why just not to use oil catch can with breather?
I have a catch can , but you will be draining half a cup of oil every two weeks if used daily. That does not fix the problem. We just have to accept that PCV "connector" needs to be replaced periodically to stop oil ingress at the source of the problem. Cobined with reducing turbo suction force on PCV by placing it before air filter element fully eliminated the problem for good.
@@ridgebackgarage4580 I have catch can too, and I actually added another canister because catch can was full very fast. I'm just thinking to use catch can with breather now instead connecting it back to the intake. There will be no turbo suction from PCV at all in that case. BTW Thanks for sharing this video. I like how you fixed Y intake tube.
@@Mirarty that will stop 90% of oil discharge but you will smell burnt oil all arount the car and especially in your home garage if you leave it vented. Even without changing "connector" just tap in exhaust of your catch can before passenger air filter by the dipstick and you won't have bad smell or oil going into the intaje since suction is drastically reduced. Good luck.
I’ve done same and replaced pcv and keep air filters clean/replaced to try and reduce intake pressure. Anybody got an idea if running something like a provent 200 with a line that drains back to oil pan would work? Maybe with a one way valve in the drain back line?
@@cmack864 I am using Provent 200, but I put a metal ball valve from hardware store at the end of the hose from catch can drain instead. I used to drain it every couple of weeks before replacing "connector" and re-routing catch can exhaust. I did not want a possibility of water from vapor mixed with oil going back into the engine. In Europe it was common to drain it back, but I think they are avoiding it now. Also on OM642 I did not find a suitable existing place to tap in for oil return and did not want to drill into anything.
Do you have picture of the parts you used to connect lower part of Provent 200 to passenger side air intake?
I am sorry I do not. I found 3/4" electrical conduit pipe, 4" long, threaded on both ends with a nut. Drilled the hole in the plastic intake section and threaded the pipe from inside. The first time I go to the Home Depot, I will get you pictures and part numbers.
Ridgeback Garage thank you, I appreciate it
Ridgeback Garage is it Carlon 3/4 in. Straight Non-Metallic Liquid Tight PVC Fitting from Home Depot?
@@seankellogg6154 , no. It is a metal conduit in electrical section. You know the metal pipping electrician use to run electrical wiring on the outside of buildings.
Ridgeback Garage thanks, I’ll revisit the store.
Thanks again for taking the time to video your work.
I have an om642 in a merc R 280. Oil sucction was never a problem.
Is this engine really that bad??? I'm thinking about getting a Jeep with the om642
I do not think is any worst or better than any other engine. Could have Mercedes engineers done a better job with oil/water separator and oil cooler seal material choice? By all means, but I think there is a lot of deferred maintenance to be blamed for. Automotive industry is pitching 100K maintenance free transmission and engine service intervals yet their own bulletins call for multiple services within that window. Engines are living and breading things that require an upkeep and transmission are no different. I think that with proper care this engine can far outlast a vehicle it is in. Plastics all over vehicles are crap these days since they are a lot more fragile and start decomposing the moment they are removed from a mold. Transmission paired with this engine (722.9) has conductor plate issues with speed sensors getting fouled up with old oil due to lack of timely transmission oil changes. Again, lack of maintenance. Get the car and do all maintenance items as well as oil cooler seals, PCV "connector" and reroute, transmission service and you should be golden.
thanks very helpful
I missed a lot of things in the process. You were explaining things you have already done and I couldn't relate no more.
Just watch it again and again. This really is the best solution.
Where are you located?
0:14 "Dreaded OM642" - LOL - only by people who aren't very skilled at auto mechanics. Like a guy that routes crankcase vapors IN FRONT of the air filter so that the air filter can get oil saturated in no time. And WTF are you on about "sucking oil accumulated in the oil cooler"? Seriously? The oil cooler is a brazed-plate heat exchanger with oil on one side and coolant on the other - mounted under the intake manifold. What on Earth do you think this has to do with what you're dealing with here?