I build alot of LS engines. Felpro is my go-to gasket for just about everything. But one issue that I’ve found with the valve cover gaskets. They become displaced shortly after installing. No matter how many methods or re-torquing procedures I’ve tried, nothing solves the leakage issue. I have tried other brand gaskets with better success. But they aren’t perfect either. Doesn’t matter if the VC are new, oem or aftermarket.. What we have found to be a full proof method for these is using a very light bead of Blue rtv all the way around the groove of the VC, the insert the dry rubber gasket into the groove. Wipe away the access, then install. It works as a glue to keep the gasket from moving. Without this, the gasket can move out of place when tightening down and through heat cycles. This is a tried and proven method.
Do you think the 90 Minute Black Gasket Maker would do the trick as well? Seems to cure much faster and be specially formulated for Valve Cover Gaskets with all the info I’ve gathered, but will stick with the Blue RTV if you think that’s a better idea. Hopefully you reply man!
I know we're all here for car stuff, but take a couple seconds at 3:15 to appreciate that PC on the rolling cart. It appears to be Compaq, and it's been a minute for that company. And I'm certain that it still does the job it's supposed to do.
I've rebuilt quite a few old engines from classic cars that pretty much used all cork rubber gaskets. I've always used a very thin layer of rtv on the block side to stick it on for instillation. I finally got to build a modern engine a while back and I've gotta say, I'm a huge fan of the blue rubber gaskets! Especially the oil pan, but also the ones that snap into groves. It's such a great improvement and not getting rtv all over myself had me happier than a fly on fresh cow shit!
Don't know about the coolant passage, I put them on dry and torqued the bolts as instructed and was getting coolant past the coolant passages to the lifter Valley. Had to remove and reinstall with a new set and added RTV sealant along the coolant passage and solved my issue. Yes both heads and lower intake were straight and level at the time of installation. 5 years ago.
I use mostly Fel Pro gaskets on most jobs and on the corners of the timing covers and the corners of the main caps I tried dry before that's a no no that was a lesson learned for me great thing I didn't have to raise up the engine to remove the oil pan.
Hi, You said no Rtv used on rocker cover silicon gaskets. But what about the line between engin block and timing cover meets ? I see all mechanics use a small amount of rtv on that joining line..
I just used Felpro valve cover gaskets on my 98 SC2 and it leaks 3x worse than the old worn out gasket. I even completely prepped the surfaces by getting everything rubbed off with rags and throttle body cleaner. Thinking about removing them, re-cleaning and using RTV with the gaskets 😩
Those spots on the GM V6 valley seals are a pain to seal. Very easy for the seal to fail when not using enough, but using too much just dumps sealant straight down into the block. Adding boost and increasing crank case pressure tends to blow these gaskets out immediately. That's an ancient PC back there.
If you've got a Ford FE (390-428), you should use Fel-Pro's 1632 blue cork gasket for your valve covers...with just a couple jabs of silicon. ...those should be right at/under where the manifold and head come together on the corners...just a few ccs.
Thank you John, you are doing a good job, can you do video about common mistake when replacing gaskets, incorrect torque when tightening the bolts ( uneven torque, over torque and under torque) . thank you again and GOD bless you.
I used to make gaskets at the Skokie location. Your gasket leaked and turned into crumbly tissue paper in only a few days on my rear differential cover on a 1999 Chevy suburban k1500 10 bolt diff.
Just bought a set of VS 50247R "rubber" VC gaskets for my 87 F350 6.9 Diesel. Install dry or RTV in the groove? No instructions on the box regarding using sealer. Everyone has an opinion. I'm leaning toward going dry and see what happens. What does John G and Fel-Pro say?
I have a toyota 22re and the valve cover has two moons. One at each end. I know rtv goes in the grove of the moon to seat against the head but do i need a dab of rtv at the top where the top of the moon ctcs the gasket? Please advise..thks..jc
This is exactly what I'm trying to find out now about their blue striped paper gasket for the water pump and it seems impossible to find anything specific from fel-pro...no rtv, one side or both...
Im changing my valve cover gaskets on my 2001 Ford F250. I noticed that there is RTV already on the valve covers where there is a joint. My question is what is the best type of RTV sealant to use on valve covers
If you are sealing aluminum to aluminum a dry gasket is usually all you need. If you are sealing aluminum to stamped steel or machined steel to stamped steel you're going to to need some RTV. Rule of thumb.
Dont mean to sound negative but your title is "when" to use rtv on gaskets but with the gasket line you are selling it's never. Was here for different info. Watched it all though and good presentation.
When there is an uneven service such as a sharp 90 degree angle on both sides surrounding cam gear on valve cover gasket. Or where say, timing cover meets up to head, or the "half moons" on many toyota engines.
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The Fel-Pro paper gaskets weren't covered here. Such as what would be used with a water pump.
Here for the same reason….what about paper gaskets?
I build alot of LS engines. Felpro is my go-to gasket for just about everything. But one issue that I’ve found with the valve cover gaskets. They become displaced shortly after installing. No matter how many methods or re-torquing procedures I’ve tried, nothing solves the leakage issue. I have tried other brand gaskets with better success. But they aren’t perfect either. Doesn’t matter if the VC are new, oem or aftermarket.. What we have found to be a full proof method for these is using a very light bead of Blue rtv all the way around the groove of the VC, the insert the dry rubber gasket into the groove. Wipe away the access, then install. It works as a glue to keep the gasket from moving. Without this, the gasket can move out of place when tightening down and through heat cycles. This is a tried and proven method.
Do you think the 90 Minute Black Gasket Maker would do the trick as well? Seems to cure much faster and be specially formulated for Valve Cover Gaskets with all the info I’ve gathered, but will stick with the Blue RTV if you think that’s a better idea. Hopefully you reply man!
I know we're all here for car stuff, but take a couple seconds at 3:15 to appreciate that PC on the rolling cart. It appears to be Compaq, and it's been a minute for that company. And I'm certain that it still does the job it's supposed to do.
I've rebuilt quite a few old engines from classic cars that pretty much used all cork rubber gaskets. I've always used a very thin layer of rtv on the block side to stick it on for instillation. I finally got to build a modern engine a while back and I've gotta say, I'm a huge fan of the blue rubber gaskets! Especially the oil pan, but also the ones that snap into groves. It's such a great improvement and not getting rtv all over myself had me happier than a fly on fresh cow shit!
What if I take off my valve cover and the RTV seal looks good? Do I scrape it?
Thank you my friend!! Here in 2023
Don't know about the coolant passage, I put them on dry and torqued the bolts as instructed and was getting coolant past the coolant passages to the lifter Valley. Had to remove and reinstall with a new set and added RTV sealant along the coolant passage and solved my issue. Yes both heads and lower intake were straight and level at the time of installation. 5 years ago.
I use mostly Fel Pro gaskets on most jobs and on the corners of the timing covers and the corners of the main caps I tried dry before that's a no no that was a lesson learned for me great thing I didn't have to raise up the engine to remove the oil pan.
Hi,
You said no Rtv used on rocker cover silicon gaskets. But what about the line between engin block and timing cover meets ?
I see all mechanics use a small amount of rtv on that joining line..
I just used Felpro valve cover gaskets on my 98 SC2 and it leaks 3x worse than the old worn out gasket. I even completely prepped the surfaces by getting everything rubbed off with rags and throttle body cleaner. Thinking about removing them, re-cleaning and using RTV with the gaskets 😩
Those spots on the GM V6 valley seals are a pain to seal. Very easy for the seal to fail when not using enough, but using too much just dumps sealant straight down into the block. Adding boost and increasing crank case pressure tends to blow these gaskets out immediately.
That's an ancient PC back there.
Rebuilding a 460 right now with your gasket set... don't let me down...👍
How did it go?
@@Doomzdayxx the gaskets are awesome but my supplier sent me the wrong intake manifold gaskets... so now we play the waiting game for parts...🤣
@@scottsthaname1 Fuck...i feel that pain.
I agree . For cam cover : dry, no RTV at all.
If you've got a Ford FE (390-428), you should use Fel-Pro's 1632 blue cork gasket for your valve covers...with just a couple jabs of silicon.
...those should be right at/under where the manifold and head come together on the corners...just a few ccs.
Thank you John, you are doing a good job, can you do video about common mistake when replacing gaskets, incorrect torque when tightening the bolts ( uneven torque, over torque and under torque) . thank you again and GOD bless you.
I bought a Fel-Pro transmission pan gasket and it’s a black color and not blue. Still install it dry or put sealant on it.
I used to make gaskets at the Skokie location. Your gasket leaked and turned into crumbly tissue paper in only a few days on my rear differential cover on a 1999 Chevy suburban k1500 10 bolt diff.
what about all the OTHER gaskets, ie, water pump, fuel pump, timing cover, and the 100 other gaskets found on an engine?
Yeah, I'm doing my engine right now, did you ever find out?
Yeah I've had problems with felpro water pump gaskets
@@ryandepinet5959 Oh yeah, I didnt put mine together yet, I was going to put it together dry. Think I should RTV it some or dry?
@@Big-Lex124rtv it
Can felpro rubber/silicone gaskets (oil pan, valve cover, etc) be reused or do they need replacing every time you take them off?
Just bought a set of VS 50247R "rubber" VC gaskets for my 87 F350 6.9 Diesel. Install dry or RTV in the groove? No instructions on the box regarding using sealer. Everyone has an opinion. I'm leaning toward going dry and see what happens. What does John G and Fel-Pro say?
Rear diff cover gasket?
I just purchased a oil pan gasket for 2008 Is 250 Lexus. Which normally uses sealant Is that a dry application with your product.
I just installed new FelPro vs13379 gasket without sealant. It leaks a little by bottom corners. Should I remove and and sealant?
What method is used to install your gasket on a block in the car?
Thank you so much for clarifying all of that for me
I have a toyota 22re and the valve cover has two moons. One at each end. I know rtv goes in the grove of the moon to seat against the head but do i need a dab of rtv at the top where the top of the moon ctcs the gasket? Please advise..thks..jc
No mention of the paper gaskets like timing cover or water pump?
This is exactly what I'm trying to find out now about their blue striped paper gasket for the water pump and it seems impossible to find anything specific from fel-pro...no rtv, one side or both...
Just got a fel pro oil pan gasket and it came with 3 rtv tubes wtf ??
So the takeaway is the more etc the better
Great job !!
What about the fel pro 70644 oil adapter gasket? Does it require anything?
Im changing my valve cover gaskets on my 2001 Ford F250. I noticed that there is RTV already on the valve covers where there is a joint. My question is what is the best type of RTV sealant to use on valve covers
#1 is Mopar engine Sealant. #2 is hondabond. #3 is ultra black. Project farm did a wonderful video on testing RTV.
I just bought a gasket for a Lexus IS 250 2008. Is it applied dry??
If you are sealing aluminum to aluminum a dry gasket is usually all you need. If you are sealing aluminum to stamped steel or machined steel to stamped steel you're going to to need some RTV. Rule of thumb.
Thanks, I wasn't sure if the differential would need rtv or not. The old seal had it on both sides when I removed it.
So doing a thermostat with a fel-pro 35024. Should I install it dry ?
I had to do thermostat on a ford with a shitty casting job on head and had to use permatex right stuff to finally get it to seal
helps me a lot
What about thermostat gasket’s.
When i remove mine notice it had the o ring and some rtv aswell and it never leak
Hi i have a volvo station wagon 245dl and i want to know where i can get a gasket set for this model. 1975
Hi Darryl, we recommend using our where to buy tool: www.felpro.com/where-to-buy.html
Dont mean to sound negative but your title is "when" to use rtv on gaskets but with the gasket line you are selling it's never. Was here for different info. Watched it all though and good presentation.
When there is an uneven service such as a sharp 90 degree angle on both sides surrounding cam gear on valve cover gasket. Or where say, timing cover meets up to head, or the "half moons" on many toyota engines.
Right lol dry Dry and dryyyyyy would you like a cup of dry ?
Well he technically told you when to use it, by telling you when not to use it. Lmao. Jeez
The answer to "when" can be "never"
I need one I hope that's all I need
Wear do ya get them there gluves ?👀
Thems the goodins and hard ta find fer my little baby hands 👐🏼
Whur yo beez from?
Oil pan gasket
So in other words… gunk that stuff on!! Lol jk👍
Instructions unclear.. I just put rtv on everything
Yea no