How To Spray Paint A Guitar - Start to Finish
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- Опубліковано 31 лип 2024
- DISCLAIMER: I have learned that spraying lacquer in that close of proximity to a regular box fan could be dangerous. I recommend that you not run the fan like I say in the video, or at least do your own research.
Additional Info:
Necessary items for this project include:
Dupli-color lacquer spray paint
1 can of sand-able primer ($7.99)
3 cans of color paint (3 x $8.99)
2 cans of clear top coat (2 x $8.99)
Meguiar’s Rubbing Compound ($7.99)
Meguiar’s Mirror Glaze ($14.99)
Sandpaper in various grits (320, 600, 1000, 1500, 2000) (around $6 a pack but you can find variety packs that have most of the grits you need for less.)
TOTAL COST FOR PAINT AND POLISH: $75.92
Additional items:
Spackle or wood filler
Painter’s tape
Paint mask
Paper towels
Microfiber towels (Harbor Freight is the best place to pick these up, the pack I used is $7.99 but often it is a free item they give away if you purchase anything else)
Car buffer or buffing pad for orbital sander (I picked up this pad for my 5” orbital sander, it isn’t necessary but it does make polishing a lot faster: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...)
Website: www.lukemerwin.com
Twitter: / merwinmusic
Facebook: / lukemerwinmusic
0:00 Intro
0:37 Paint / Materials
1:53 Sanding / Prep Work
2:16 Primer
3:51 Color Coat
4:34 Changing Color
5:08 Color Coat
5:44 Fixing Drips
6:19 Clear Coat
7:23 Sanding
8:29 Polishing
9:30 Result
let the lacquer harden for around 3 weeks before assembling. I used this tutorial but I had a piece of electric tape on the body, and when I took it off, it tore of the lacquer, even though it dried for a day. I don't want this to happen to anyone else so please re-comment this so it dosent happen to anyone else!
The clearcoat should cure for 3-4 weeks before polishing/reassembly, IMO.
@@KentQuickstad ill edit my comment, thank you! :)
Honestly, all paint layers have to dry for much longer. There's a pretty serious risk at layers cracking when you go at it at this speed. Not saying it couldn't work out well, but the real time it takes to dry is weeks if not months. I know they claim this type of car paint sets in 6 to 12 hours, but it really doesn't. If it's not set well before the lacquer, you can get issues. Mostly when ambient temperature changes a lot, but also in event of bumping the guitar into something. And the primer has to be sanded down slightly for optimal fixture of the next paint layers. Can't do that either when you rush it too much.
@@KentQuickstad If you use automotive clear coat you can cut and polish in 24 hours.
Always remove tape as soon as you can. Try do thin coats. Removing the tape before the paint is fully cured and still just about not touch dry will avoid finish tare
Those holes makes me uncomfortable
..... Thats why im watching
Trypophobia
That's what she said.
ray yagami Yeah, what’s up with that? Solution to weight relief?
@@Lloyd_Christmas11 lol
A few tips... I've spray finished quite a few guitars and your video auto-played from a different video I was watching and thought I would share these, note, I'm trying to provide some constructive criticism here, not call you out or anything like that:
1. You should likely create a bit more of a sealed/clean spray booth with like double or triple the air inlets, being filtered as well, to prevent dust getting on on it. You may want to force air in at the bottom and then have the outlet be near the top. But you really really want to be in a dust free environment, and you also really want to watch your humidity and temperature outside too.
2. You should fill any larger holes before you spray your primer, and then don't use primer as a grain filler/sealer, unless you have a primer that specifically seals as well. And definitely don't do that on really porous wood. For porous wood, a special grain filler, or a thinned epoxy is preferred. You can also tint the thinned epoxy with certain dyes if you are going to not use a color. Also, use an actual wood filler, spackle is for dry wall.
3. you should only sand to about a 220 prior primer and and between coats of primer, and before your color. If you sand it too fine, the paint wont adhere as well.
4. You should definitely level sand between coats of color. Most places recommend around 400 between each color coat, and same between each clear coat.
5. Start with 400 (or whatever you used between your clear coats) on your final clear coat and work up to 1000 or 2000 or whatever grit you want to take it to, going to too light of a grit too fast will leave larger imperfections and just smooth them over, or take you WAY too long to get them out. Also, most guitar manufacturers only go to like 1500 grit, and you definitely want to make short steps in grit as you increase.
6. If you want to be more "vintage-y", and later let it naturally "relic" or "check", use nitrocellulose lacquer for your top coat. There's a few different brands that make specific instrument lacquer. It's generally not much more expensive than the sprays you get at the autoshop, but it'll give you a really fine and tough finish.
7. Hold your spray can further away, and be sure to clean the nozzle between coats.
8. If you're going to heat your lacquer, heat the body as well. Lacquer adheres better when it's warm as you say, and it also sprays a lot more evenly, which is actually the bigger benefit. But it works even better if the surface of the item being sprayed is close to the same temperature.
9. I really like to get a "spray gun" handle for my aerosol cans. They give you the grip squeeze and let you control your spray a lot better for a more even application.
10. You should way at least 2 days between your final color coat and first clear coat. Like you said in your video when you went to do your final sand and buff, you want it to be good and dry. You don't want your clear coats to completely melt and fuse with the coats underneath. Since non-poly lacquer acts as a solvent to itself, that's going to happen to some degree anyways, but it's not nearly as bad and you get a much more consistent final product if you wait and let it dry really well. And the same goes for poly-based lacquer except that it's not that it will melt and blend (that just ain't gonna happen with poly), it just solidifies and dries and whatever you mix with it, etc, will be that way forever, so if you make a mistake... good luck.
Overall, this is a pretty good primer (if you'll excuse my pun) on the basic process, just a few minor things to help get a more consistent finish with less stress next time.
Some good points mentioned here. However, there's no problem with sanding to 600 before primer or before color coats. You should have plenty of adherence using up to 600 grit. 220 seems far too coarse for spraying color. Also I wouldn't say it's essential to sand between color coats if the primer coat has been sanded to 600. Sanding clear coat to 400? Again that seems unnecessarily coarse, when clear coat can be sanded starting at 800 or 1000 (wet sanding). Just my thoughts.
I'm sure you get great results with your method, just sharing what works for me and could potentially be less work!
sanding between clear coats is not what you do, unless you are trying to even your surface which should have been done in the filling and primer stage.
Note to add, You might not want to level sand metallic finishes unless you want to flatten out the flake in the paint. I learned this from repeatedly screwing up duplicator metallic lacquers, the first time I tired not leveling out the color coat, it turned out a million times better.
Thank you for this comment, and everyone that's responded. I'm about to do my first job and I need ALL the pointers. So happy this video is up, the other ones skip over a lot of steps.
Now this makes more sense. If I may add, when you're done spraying, turn the can upside down and spray until nothing comes out (3-4 seconds) that cleans out the nozzle.
Great comment, and thanks 😊.
One of the best painting tutorials on UA-cam. I grew up in an auto body shop and have always been surrounded by this sort of things the #1 rule of painting is pre-paint Prep. The longer you spend on your prep work the less time you have to put in on the tail end of the project. Sand the body, fill the cracks and gaps, dents and dings. Then return to step one and double check everything and give it a once over just to be sure. Use your hands to feel the body of the guitar/car/whatever your painting and feel for imperfections. Slowly run your hands over it for a few minutes and you will find high and low spots in your filler, dings and dents you didn’t see etc. once that’s done then you can begin with your primer, once your primer is dry you can put on a guide coat of a darker color primer. I.e. if the guitar has been oriented Grey, use a flat black guide coat. Very very lightly fog it on the guitar, very thinly. This coat is to help you sand the primer without sanding through it. That’s why the guide coat should be very light and very thinly applied. Just a quick fog with the guide coat color on the project and then. Let it dry. Once it’s dry get to work sanding off that guide coat. It will also help you find the highs and lows dents and dings as the black primer will go into the dent or knick and as you sand over it the black will still be in the Knick because it’s below the surface. Once you’ve fixed any final problems and the primer is well sanded, then apply your paint. Light coats with a overlapping coverage. Also a big problem most people run I to with rattle cans is that when painting they bend their wrist. Lock your wrist and use your shoulder. Bending your wrist causes the fan of the paint to spray unevenly. Your use of hot water to keep can pressure up was awesome! Well done! That’s very often overlooked! When you are also doing your final polish you can polish in stages to get a deep deep gloss out of the clear. Just like sandpaper, polishing compounds come in various grits. Start heavy, med. light. Ultra fine and then a final glaze. You did an excellent job my friend, good work and a very very good video! Keep it up!
I remember back in the day (late 80's) when we used to customise our cars in the back yard (definintely not anything pro), it became a bit of a fad to leave your car painted with just a flat grey or yellow primer with a black guide coat on it. It had a sort of tiger stripe effect that the lads thought looked cool at the time. Rough and tough and gave you street cred. Ah the good old days...
I think I’ve watched this video 10 times over the past 4 weeks, but it helped me totally refinish my very first guitar!
I originally bought the guitar in 2001 when I was in high school and tried to refinish it, but had no idea what I was doing, so it’s been disassembled in a gif bag for 20 years.
Now it’s got a brand new finish, and new electronics, and sounds amazing. Seriously, thank you for helping me to bring a guitar back to life after 20 years 🙏
Dude snap I did the very same thing lol. 16 years old repainted my strat without a clue. It looked awful 😂 literally got it out and sanded it down a few weeks ago and I'm about to turn 40
Mate where were you 3 months ago when I tried this and completely fucked up my guitar lol
THANK YOU for posting this guide! I am NOT a professional painter by any means. I just wanted a project to keep me busy for a few weeks. I followed your method, and my guitar looks great!!! I'm putting the guts in it this weekend, and hope to have a playable instrument next week. I really want to attempt the midi controller piece in my next build, but I'm a little scared! LOL Great work, man! Keep it up!
Great video! I like how you put it all in one take, rather that a series of videos. The finish turned out beautiful. Shows what you can do if you take your time and put your mind to it! Thanks for the tips!
Wow....best guitar finish video ever !!!....I made my 1st bass when I was 19 y/o and I remember using Bondo, sanding, priming, sanding, spraying, sanding for days, polishing...was endless because I had no power tools but enjoyed every minute of it.
Your video is better than those old guys using four 30' videos to explain the same. Congrats Mr. !!!
"Avoid inhaling any paint fumes."
Why? That's the best part!🤪
Lmao
😂😂😂
😂😂😂
It can make you a better player
LLOL
Another tip to assist in drying and curing the pain is to have like a Par 38 lamp or two that generate a little heat. When I worked in GM after spraying the bodies went through the "Oven". Good dry heat, dust free, no humidity... it also helps improve the actual finish.
I never worked at a place painting cars but using car paint and pretty much the same process. I agree.
This works like an absolute dream, I've pretty much followed this step by step on a rushed paint job, and its come out gleaming. 👌🏻
Primer isn't a filler. If you want a perfectly flat surface, you should fill before doing the primer. :)
And how do you do that?
@@randysalazar9030 You'd use wood filler paste to fill the grain if you have an open-grain wood, then sand. After that, you'd want some kind of sealer coat like shellac or Stewmac's vinyl sealer.
I made the mistake of starting with primer but as far as I know you can do a seal coat over top of anything and it won't hurt anything
As a model maker, there are primers that act as fillers. But what is cringy is he said to do a thick third coat. No. Each coat should be a thin coat until you get the color you want. First spray doesn't need to cover all. Second coat gets a little more of the nooks and crannies. Third spray should cover all, fourth spray and on till you reach the color you desire. As far as the primer, use the right primer for the job, then prime, and sand to find high/low spots, fill or sand as needed, prime again, rinse lather, repeat until smooth, lightly sand, paint until the color is desired, then clear, lightly sand, then clear again, sand then polish.
I don't understand why people use thick coats. It just causes runs and orange peel. Proper prep means cleaner and smoother finish.
@@randysalazar9030 I heard this stuff is amazing - going to try it - Universal 2K epoxy primer filler - www.spraymax.com/en-us/products/product/primer-primer-filler/2k-epoxy-primer-1/ Also their 2k clear coat is good too
Randy Salazar no no no! Wood filler is not the same as GRAIN filler. You’d use grain filler to fill the pores. Wood filler is not what you use. This is incorrect info. Woods that use grain filler are ash, mahogany, oak, etc. Alder, maple, etc do not need grain filling. I have built several guitars with factory finishes. I seal the guitar first, then grain fill, seal again, grain fill once more, and seal once more with a thick coat. Then you start your base(color) coat. Then spray clear and wet sand and buff, and you’re done. Finishing requires a great deal of research, if you want to do it right. I suggest doing tests on scrap material before you do a guitar. Will help you practice and save you a lot of headache in the long term.
I was looking for a good tutorial for post-processing and finishing 3d prints. I couldn't really find anything that suited what I was looking for... This video showed up in my feed and it's the last painting video I will need as a hobbiest! Really clear every step of the way, I love how much time and detail you put into this. Thanks for uploading. This really helped me :)
Thanks for making this video! I've watched quite a few times and paused in between while prepping and painting my les paul kit and I'm going to be applying clear coat tomorrow. I ended up using Krylon Fusion all-in-one instead of duplicolor for my color coat because none of my local car parts stores had the color I wanted in stock and it still looks fantastic
Good results comes after hard work n efforts. Lovely colour n love the shine.
Patience, dude, that's an understatement! It looks like you need a fair amount of endurance and vision for the end product with faith that you can pull it off! Nice work, your finish looks great.
Used this method on my first build, worked really great! Thanks! I'm making my second guitar right now, watching again as a reminder. :)
Everyone should take this video as guideline "how to make good tutorial video". This was great! Thank you!
Agreed!
Merwin, you did a great job here, not just painting but also how you narrated your video.
Nice build and great knowledgeable video. I'm super impressed. I'm in the same boat I'm about to paint a strat body and I'm glad I seen your video because I learned a few new things.
Excellent video, as I have been contemplating buying one of those DIY guitar kits and one of the things I was considering is "how to paint" it? But now, I have a much better concept on the subject and found your video to be an excellent primer to get me started! Thanks!!
Great vid Guy! Just the facts, did an awesome job(on guitar), well explained with clear enunciation. Every person putting a how-to vid should be required to watch this before they are allowed to upload their vid. Thanks for your time and hard work. Very well done!
Best step by step guitar spaying video I've ever seen.
Brilliant job 👍👍👍👍
Great short vid on how to paint a guitar, the last few steps are def the most important.
Definitely takes days/weeks to complete
Good job buddy!!! I've always been wantin to do that, but always thought it'd be completely impossible...!!! You made me realize that it is totally horrible, but absolutely possible!! Thanks! I might actually do this one day. I've done comparably horrible works before ;)
I have been watching videos for weeks....and you just answered 3 of my questions in 10 minutes. Thanks
Another great thing to use between sanding or re spraying another layer is a tack cloth. Duplicolor also makes these. Helps make sure you don’t get dust and hairs in your next layer. Also, duplicolor makes a sandable scratch filling primer. Spray 3-4 layers of this then block sand the body. It will help get rid of minor imperfections. If there are still some imperfections visible (or you can feel them with your fingers - if you feel them you will see them later), get spotting or glazing putty (I think bondo brand makes this). Fill the minor imperfections and block sand again. Use tack cloth, spray pigment layer. You also don’t have to sand between the pigment and clear coat layers if you take care of the imperfections before spraying your pigment layer. Another thing you can do is do a few layers of pigment, let dry 24 hrs (I think, double check can). Block Sand with 600 grit (I actually like the equivalent of 600 grit sandpaper in a scuff pad a lot better- ones I get are a burgundy purple color), use the spot putty, block sand again then spray pigment followed by the clear coat as described on the can. Also, when you wet sand the clear coat it will turn out better if you also use a sanding block. You will never get as good a finish wet sanding by hand as you do with a block. You can do flat areas with a block and curved areas by hand or get a foam sanding block that has a bit of flex to it for the curves. I have painted a lot of stuff with duplicolor. If you take your time it can look really good. Also, only use automotive masking tape. The household stuff will lift your paint even if it has been drying for weeks. It can take up to a month (sometimes even longer depending on weather and atmospheric conditions) for the paint/clear coat to be truly cured and fully hardened. That’s why it smells for so long after painting even though it appears dry.
thats my man ,was the coolest guitar I've ever seen..and this does help me painting my old guitar. thank u 🤘🏻🤘🏻🤘🏻
Probably the best guitar spraying video I have seen. Many thanks.
Thank you. I just learned as much or more in 10 min. than I have from other videos nearly an hour long.
Just done mine. great job thanks. best video i have seen on complete paint and polish job
nice job. It takes a lot of work to publish a video like this. The bottom line is your technique ended up with great results. thank you.
That guitar is a total wildcat! Great walk-through.
Great video. When you watch a myriad of other videos and get the general gist of it, I really like that you went through it quickly. I think I can do this! Fiesta Red Precision bass with mint guard - here I come!
I don't know nothing about painting guitars and I'm looking tutorials to do it. I have watch several vids about it and other guys seem to have more knowledge and put much work than this dude but their result was not like this... This guy maybe didn't go strictly by the rules but the finish looks professional. So no matter the technique as long it works. This I can do and I will feel satisfied if I achieve something similar to this, thanks bro
Great vidio No matter how you do it someone will always disagree with.
You did a great job and made a beautiful instrument out of it.
Good job man
Finally! I can tell by your opening mission statement that you know how frustrated we are with the other videos (DUPLI-COLOR LOL I was actually thinking of doing my bumper and guitar at the same time
It's good to see you had good luck with Dupli-Color. It can be hit and miss depending on the atmospheric conditions you are painting in. I'm getting ready to do a telecaster project and it is going to be an all water based project even the clear cloat.
Broo the finish is incredible! Thank you so much for uploading!
So I'm actually considering doing this 😱
Thanks for the video, was cool seeing it all coming together. Appreciate the upload 👍
Totally a kick-ass GREAT video. very direct and to the point and lotsa valuable information. Thanks for sharing your experience.
Thanks for the video! I just bought a DIY kit, so once it comes in the mail, I'll get on it!
I discovered the trick of a pre spray on either some paper or an old piece of clean scrap wood...
Free of charge! Digging the color seriously sick!
This is the first video of yours i have watched and it is great!! Love it. I just started doing similar stuff at home so your vids will surely prove useful. I will like and subscribe!
Fantastic, you answered all of my questions and all of what I needed to know to finish up my first redo/diy, tysm!!🎉
The end result is very impressive looks great, well done and thanks for the tips.
I had to do a ton of spraying of things I made in design school where I'd get harshly critiqued if anything didn't look like it was a store bought object, and what I've learned is that you need to back up. Get a light mist, yes, it'll look blotchy, but you wait for it to dry, then do it again. By the third coat, it'll start to look less blotchy, but by coat 4 or 5, it'll be super even and you won't get drips and all of that crap. If you got drips, you were too close, there is no reason to ever get drips.
thanks for that insight!
If one has drips,one needs to see a doctor
I really enjoyed your step by step instructions. Great job!😀
Thank you for the very informative tutorial! I can’t wait to do this myself.
I always wondered how they get that shine!!! Thank you. It is boring and tedious process but yours came out professional!!!!!!!!!!
Great vid, bout time someone did one like this, now I just need one like for restoring a tube radio, making a homemade mic & amp etc etc...
Even if I'm not going to paint any of my guitars it is a great vid. Will try the polishing part of this session ...
Awesome tutorial. I'm getting ready to paint a 1966 Fender Mustang and this helped a lot. Cheers!
Good job! That metallic blue looks awesome on that body. I have a trashed Fender Jaguar knockoff body that would look beautiful with that paint.
Your video is so clear! thanks man great video
that is the nicest diy finish ever.
Looks great. I've painted guitars myself and it can be a pain. But yours turned out really nice.
very very good video. I had already done this but I wish I had seen this prior to my attempt. Great work!
Definetly you deserve more subscribers and likes! EXCELENT tutorial!! Thank you!
Great video. I also found that it was better to use the block instead of hanging the guitar. Probably cause I’m not the best painter, it helped me be more accurate. Thanks for the tips!
A few coats of sanding sealer with sanding in between would've sealed up the grain of the wood. Keeps the primer and subsequent color coats from having the grain show through and makes the final polishing a bit less laborious. That said, your final finish looks quite fine and I really like that shade of blue and it looks even better with the neck, pick guard and hardware installed! I was going to ask about adding a second trim color but you've already explained that.
This actually helped me learn how to correctly wet-sand...thanks!
Great job I enjoyed this step by step video and I'm ready to try it myself
hey man, great video. i know some people who do paint jobs like this and they always say to keep the spray can at least 30cm away at all times and i noticed your first stroke of blue was very close and doing the whole thing like that could make alot of drips.
Followed your lead... finished product lQQks great! One thing your point on about is laying that primer on thick and heavy before wet sanding!
I’ve got one to do and been wondering how to go about it just getting the old finish off will be the hardest part. Thanks you answered heaps of questions. 🇦🇺
Craig Kaschan use a heat gun and scraper, then sand with 80 grit for any residual paint left
I will be basically following this tutorial starting tomorrow so excited!
Good luck!
Exellent job, dude 👌 I like the makeshift paint room...genius!
This is amazing. Thank you! I’m planning on putting a les Paul together with Seymour Duncan invaders, a semigloss white finish, black hardware, black pickguard, ebony fretboard with white inlays, I know I could just get a 2009 alpine white les Paul but I feel like I’d enjoy putting it together. It would give me something to do too
You should always use a sanding block when you wet sand the final coats because you actually apply more pressure at your finger tips than in between them and it can cause un even sanding. The block keeps even pressure across the entire face the sand paper.
I have one, I guess I could have used it...
Good job...
Lol...I just primed...spray painted a can I found of krylon Italian olive color...I left some heavy runs on the belly cut...cuz they looked cool, yellow pickguard...but it took me pretty much as long as you...waiting for coats to dry is a draaaaag
so you did a quick and dirty job,im trying to see what your point is?if you do not prep it will look like ass,like your guitar .
do you recommend having a nice looking finish or one that looks like a 5 year old finger painted it on?comments are rife with idiots as usual.
@@trillrifaxegrindor4411 looks like nobody cares about your stupid opinion!
Biggest problem I find with spraying is that it's all very well, building up coat after coat, and leaving it to "dry" between coats. But when its all finished you end up with a "thick" finish which is "dry" but not actually CURED. The net result is that after about a month, the paint finish on your beautifully flattened and polished guitar, which shone in the sun when you first polished it, "sinks back" as it cures and releases the last of the solvents trapped within it. Then the wood grain pops back out as though you hadn't spent the time to grain fill it- twice. Once had a motorbike gas-tank I sprayed- lots of coats of nitro-cellulose. Dried, cut back and polished each layer. After 1 month all cracked like the Giant's Causeway! Beware!
the holy grail is never let the layers drie out completely. in the car industry within 15 minutes the next layer will be on the fucking car
I'm following your method. I have used 2 out of 3 cans of paint so far. My color is Medium Quasar metallic. That's a beautiful blue color.
Great video and amazing detailed information! I'm going to give my old les paul a new feeling and as complete amateur your video is an amazing help! Only one question: should I do the exact same procedure for the neck?
I am quite sure your next guitar Paint job will be even better. You know what I mean, The more you do something, the better you get at it. Some really good tips for me.
Looks super. Great step by step explanation!
Thank you! One day, I plan to re-paint my Epi SG Junior. I like everything about it but the color. It was advertised as TV yellow, but I got a hideous brownish yellow mustard matte color. It looks cheap, too. I thought I would one day see about re-painting it. You know, learn about what I'd be getting into. Your video looks like it will be helpful. As for the time involved, don't worry. I didn't think this would be a one-day project. I'd rather take a while and do it right than rush it and have to re-do it ad infinitum.
And I just sprayed my bass with spray paint randomly to get ,,blue blood flow" on red body... looks cool, but not that professional, lol
Zły Maciek lol same!!
Great video, informative and well filmed with good graphics! 👍
I’m planning on doing a Hendrix Monterey type guitar paint job. Would I just follow the steps all the way up to before putting the clear coat on and then using white paint and a piece of cardboard to get that fade effect a couple times and then use the clear coat?
How would I do it?
just a tip you probably want to wet sand your clear coat with blocks to keep everything perfectly flat, and be careful around the edges not to "burn" through the finish. I did a project recently and had a lot of problems, yours certainly looks better than mine.
I got impatient and now I have a freshly painted relic’ed giitar. It’s like a Gretsch custom shop baby!!!
Good work fellah, kept me watching
Great job! Your a patient man😁. Something to be proud of though!
Great job! The best how-to I've seen on this so far. If you were going to add a decal which step would in go in? I'm guessing just after the clear coat but before the polish?
That guitar looks gorgeous, great tutorial.
Wonderful effort, superb quality result!
Great job! I am starting my two kits in a few weeks and will be painting one and staining the other. How well did your make-shift booth work? I have a brand new house and garage and am hesitant about spraying in my garage due to the mess.
This may have already been mentioned... Using Dupli-color spray paint is ideal because the nozzle on its cans of paint is significantly better than rust-oleum which can sputter and spirt. I learned the hard way and will be using only Dupli-color from now on.
Plus there is usually more pigment in the can compared to Krylon or Rust-Oleum.
Good job! I might consider to repaint an old guitar of mine. Also, arcade buttons on a guitar! Wow!
Damn your end results are perfection
Ok man, i dont know how ive gone this long painting shit without making a paint booth like that. Very nice👌
Excellent workmanship, great color choice! Oh, and nice Mk6 GTI 👌
Thanks for the box idea, very useful. I bought a cheap fabric wardrobe at Ikea (called Vuku at the time I'm writing this) and used that instead. I use the hanging rail to hook up the guitar body. It works much better for not having the space and I can close the wardrobe to avoid all the paint particles fly around everywhere :-)
Looks great bro! Random question, so I sanded off the paint finish from an acoustic guitar and I’m planning on painting one of my designs on it. Usually I only do primer when it comes to painting on wood but I noticed this is a bit different.
Thanks for the vid. I'm intrigued by all the controls for your midi guitar. Could you give a little info on what all the added knobs are for?
Good job,dude!Let people say what they want,but "the proof is in the pudding".
I went about painting my faded orange/red strat black and did the absolute worst job ever, and I feel like an idiot cause I should know better from experience already. Guess I jsust needed to see someone else do a perfect job as a reminder to know now. I already have 4-5 coats of black and 2 coats of clear on it, so I'm gonna sort of take the quick route and just do one wet sanding job on what's there to get to the paint, then start from where you started clear coats and thereafter. I was looking for that polished look and obviously did not get that from just 1500 grit sanding plus clear coat. Thanks for the extremely well made video!
Very interesting video. 2 weeks! The paint station-setup was helpful - I will try to put together something similar. I have purpose-made guitar paint from Reranch - I'm hoping it will go a bit easier than this - but still gives me a place to start.