Painting Your Classic Mercedes Benz question to ask before you do 4K
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- Опубліковано 15 кві 2022
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My grandfather worked for mercedes and and would talk about when they went from single stage to base clear he was chef inpector/quality control and when they switched he had to send alot of cars back for imperfections he said of all things off the assembly line that didn't check out it was usually paint related. Pierre my grandpa says your legendary! He loves how you stick up for these great cars people like you should be cherished you are the master of a dieing art
Paint quality and prices vary substantially. The Original Glasurit used by Mercedes can be in excess of $1000 a gallon depending on color etc. PPG is also a top shelf paint. Plus prep and primers are all contributing factors. You get what you pay for. Remember anytime paint correction is carried out, you're removing, not feeding. Measurements should be taken of film thickness before going down that route.
I admire your passion for MB, Pierre. You've inspired me to look into classic MB vehicles. I will be checking out an 1989 420SEL for sale this weekend! Hope it works out!
I've owned two 81 123 240D's. The first was Light Ivory single stage. Faded when I got it but after a lot of elbow grease with compound and polish it looked like new. Paint was absolutely perfect. My second was Classic White which had already been repainted at least once. It was repainted in classic white but still had a massive spiders web of cracks all over it. Nothing I could do would short of repainting the whole car would have fixed that. If I ever had a choice I'd buy a single stage car. I live in Phoenix and for the last twenty years have come to realize that there is no such thing as a base clear that will last in the desert. No matter the manufacturer every vehicle without exception will wind up with the upper surfaces of clear disintegrating. So if you are going to own an older car, at least in Arizona, painting looms large in the consideration.
I suspect that the paint "clear" coat is similar to the type used on the wood veneers in the interior. (though you don't get the same kind of cracking that you do in the wood, as the body doesn't expand and contract as it heats up with the windows shut closed while parked in the sun 🙄). It's an incredibly high quality finish, and I kind of doubt anything like it is still allowed today by environmentals.
RE paint shops: I've had the same unfortunate experiences as everyone else, it seems that painting a car is something that needs to be done with MUCH CARE. Namely with the selection of the painter...
PAINT JOB COST : Somewhere I remember seeing on one of the forums a guy who got his classic Mercedes repainted by a reputable shop, and he showed the bill. I think the total was $15,000 or thereabouts ( about 7 years ago from memory ). The breakdown was very interesting : while I thought it would be 90% labour, a huge amount was for consumables : tape, paper, sanding materials etc. All 3M top quality stuff, but they cost a multiple of what I thought they would cost. SUGGESTION : If you are doing a painting video, perhaps break down a cost estimate over the major line items. I think it would surprise a few people
My W124 300e 1987 is Artic White and does have a small patch of egg shelling on the front right guard. It's also a bit chalky so definitely needs a good cut back and polish. It was originally Hong Kong delivered then imported to Australia in around 2000. In the 20 years it's been here it has been stored in two previous owners garages for 10 years total. It's doing well.
Hey Piere, how do you feel about a patina. I have a rusty little 1970 220 w115 that looks so cool with the cracking and people just love it. It’s also the Mercedes’ I love driving the most. I don’t have to baby it and I bomb around town in it. Love that car!
Best advice is to try to keep the original paint as much as possible. Hard to replicate that quality
WOW WE have Artic White thank you !!!!!
The single stage painted cars are a lot easier to paint these days. Anything but gets SUPER expensive and you will need to find a very good painter. And then you need to find a fantastic finisher, who know how to wet sand and polish into perfection. Prepare to spend stupid money.
English Red & Caledonia Green......MMmmmmmm :)
You hit the nail on the head Pierre, finding a shop that will do the work and avoiding the scammers that proliferate in that industry. My '85 R107 was damaged and required a full respray, I narrowly avoided a scammer working on it and found great shop in Arlington VA (I'm in DC). Family run and in business 35 years, specializing in German cars, vintage cars, and new car defects from the local Porsche and Mercedes main dealers. Flemings 1st Choice.
It's one of the reasons I do almost all of my own work including body & paint. Also I grew up a poor farm boy and learned to fix most everything, I still enjoy getting out in the work shop and wrenching on the toys.
what about the MMWA w124 redcar
It amazes me that they can't develop a urethane coating that could be dissolved by something for re-applying, without this dissolver impacting the paint below it. Just scrub off the plastic coating every 10 years, and apply a new protective coating.
Have a 1985 380sl will not start but always smell fuel it strong . Any idea. Thanks
Hello,
I'm restoring my 1968 w115 200. I used debeer 366. What do you think of this paint?
A jackass in a big Ford F250 bopped the rear bumper on my Thistle Green Metallic 116 350SE. I wanted to shoot the fool. Not serious bad whack but I insisted on getting it dealt with by the best body shop in DFW. A Ferrari/Porsche restorer friend recommended Stuart’s Paint and Body, aurhorized by Porsche and Ferrari. Matching this color so that every panel matched was difficult but Stuart’s would not quit till it was right. My point here is do not scrimp!
Does anyone know of a good painter in the greater Los Angeles area? I want to get my 1984 380SL repainted. The color is Anthracite Grey metallic. I'm almost finished restoring my roadster, but the prior owner had it painted at a cheap shop, and now the paint is cracking in certain areas. Looks like crap in my opinion. Thanks
Your better off buying a rust free car with decent paint. I've seen Earl Schieb and Maaco jobs that were actually ok, and big dollar paint jobs that were terrible. I have been on several expeditions to retrieve cars from shops that had taken deposits and done little or no work, or actually removed valuable parts, been evicted from buildings and on and on. I'm not in that business and admit that I don't know it. I do know if you pay someone to do something and they don't do it and start avoiding calls, its ridiculous. Easier to buy the car that does not need body or paint, a good honest mechanic is very hard to find, a painter or body guy, almost impossible.