Epic TV; now send them now to How Not To Highline to break test on the new drop tower 🤪 Edit: Also it would be cool to see how they react to different things like bolt unclips or back clipping.
17cm Petzl Spirit Express FTW, not available in Europe??? I checked the shop, they are available as I assumed they would be. They are killer draws with excellent reviews. Curious that they were not featured in this review.
Just bought a set of the 17cm, amazing draw. Just wanted to chime in my vote for best price/weight/performance out there. 93 grams and super smooth solid keyhole gates @ $20 US. C'mon!
I have a question Matt; how were they on cleaning? For example; did you have to twist the bent gates quick draws to an uncomfortable angle in order to unclip? Did the wire gate quick draws grab on the rope? Otherwise I like the video; quick draws are hard to test because the differences happened to be very esoteric and delicate. You did a good job...as always.
Climbing Technology Nimble has the most smart fixbar than the others that don't, you didn't say anything about it which is very practical when climbing, which prevents the top carabiner from rotating around the sling.
So, Matt, how much did you want to go back and re-shoot the dog bone hauling section due to the back clip at the bolt right beforehand? Although the best way to get reactions on the internet is to do something wrong. So maybe it was on purpose?
And what is about cleaning a route? With some draws it is a pain in the ass to get them out. Really not a good test, also because the most common draw, the spirits are missing.
Ill be honest, i never really put much thought into this. I bought the quickdraws i liked which was the black diamond ones. I liked that they have a 16 or 18mm dogbone. I dont like short ones. I also just bought them because i like the color and they are reasonably priced. But after climbing longer and watching this video, i think the next time im in the market for a new set of quickdraws, ill look at the wildcountry and dmm ones because that bent gate looks like it would be so ergonomic to clip the rope in.
Wow this episode is really an outlier, way too many errors in it. Showing the Beal Zest upside down a the beginning Putting the finger in the draw for clipping Having a back clipped draw in the dogbone test Also not talking about the way the bottom draw is fixed to the dogbone witch has already killed climbers before if put wrongly and the error being hard to notice I'm really disappointed at this video, which really looks like has been made only for promoting the EpicTV shop.
Your writing has a lot of errors as well. To? You mean, too? Witch? You mean, which? You have a poor education, sad. I agree, the video is full of errors, but if you'd like to criticize, make sure you don't like like a dummy.
This is not video on how to use quickdraws this is just a comparison, so I don't think your last point is valid. Other than that I really felt your comment. It doesn't feel right to watch a video of a chanel this size with close up shots of him doing a lot of rookie mistakes while clipping. I would expect a little bit more eye for detail.
How does Matt have time to run this channel and commentate on IFSC? Love your commentary by the way, only recently realised I was hearing your voice on both channels :)
Really appreciate you putting out these videos which are super helpful don't get me wrong, but this video I feel is a little pointless. Feel like everyone clips how they clip and regardless of how you are doing it, it'll always be different for other people and especially in the moment of actually climbing . However its nice to see a varied collection of draws, and what they have on offer.
Well I´ve been using my 4 edelrid bulletproof for almost 2 years and seriously they are like brand new. I use them on and only for lowering, my rutes or the or my friend´s.
For most of us, whichever quickdraw you choose makes ZERO difference. Also the way Matt routinely puts his finger into and through the carabiner is very cringy.
really nice to use a bulletproof as your first draw - massively reduces wear as that is usually the draw that has the biggest rope angle
nice tip - I have 2 of them and up 2 now used those for anchors or if someone wants to toprope
3:19 how do you manage to hang the draw upside down and still expect us to have faith in anything you’re about to say about… any draws.
Just noticed that
The Proton and the Alpha are so alike that Matt only choses the Proton for its colour because he loves blue 😂
I do the same thing with my climbing equipment 🤣
Straight up honest to god I can never get enough of climbing gear vids!
We’ll keep them coming 🤟
Epic TV; now send them now to How Not To Highline to break test on the new drop tower 🤪
Edit: Also it would be cool to see how they react to different things like bolt unclips or back clipping.
10:34 dongbone
That moment when Matt is suddenly commentating his own climbing instead of the IFSC 😂
10:35 Freudian Slip?
17cm Petzl Spirit Express FTW, not available in Europe???
I checked the shop, they are available as I assumed they would be. They are killer draws with excellent reviews. Curious that they were not featured in this review.
Petz Spirit Express > all other quickdraws
Change my mind.
Just bought a set of the 17cm, amazing draw. Just wanted to chime in my vote for best price/weight/performance out there. 93 grams and super smooth solid keyhole gates @ $20 US. C'mon!
Definitely! He didn’t test for durability, but my Spirits are 20 years old (at least) and still running smooth as ever
DMM Alpha Sport > Petzl Express ;)
@@mrjakobtAnd why is that ?
@@Sigmav0 Personal preference. I find them easier to clip. Both are excellent quickdraws though.
And yet what most climbers I've ever met do is choose the cheapest safe option they can find
I have a question Matt; how were they on cleaning? For example; did you have to twist the bent gates quick draws to an uncomfortable angle in order to unclip? Did the wire gate quick draws grab on the rope?
Otherwise I like the video; quick draws are hard to test because the differences happened to be very esoteric and delicate. You did a good job...as always.
Yes, DMM is the ultimate quickdraw :)
…after the Spirit Express
Could you make an effort on the clipping techniques and the use of quickdraws. In a video, you have shown all of the mistakes to be avoided.
Climbing Technology Nimble has the most smart fixbar than the others that don't, you didn't say anything about it which is very practical when climbing, which prevents the top carabiner from rotating around the sling.
So, Matt, how much did you want to go back and re-shoot the dog bone hauling section due to the back clip at the bolt right beforehand? Although the best way to get reactions on the internet is to do something wrong. So maybe it was on purpose?
good spotting
The way you say “ergonomically “ is golden 😂
And what is about cleaning a route? With some draws it is a pain in the ass to get them out. Really not a good test, also because the most common draw, the spirits are missing.
My heart says Proton but my wallet says Hot forge
I use the bulletproofs for clipping into the anchors and lowering off of.
Ill be honest, i never really put much thought into this. I bought the quickdraws i liked which was the black diamond ones. I liked that they have a 16 or 18mm dogbone. I dont like short ones. I also just bought them because i like the color and they are reasonably priced. But after climbing longer and watching this video, i think the next time im in the market for a new set of quickdraws, ill look at the wildcountry and dmm ones because that bent gate looks like it would be so ergonomic to clip the rope in.
Now that was a good review by any standard I thought. Some extensive effort to try those quick draws which made a very interesting vid. Thank you.
what about the length of the sling? is it better to have 12cm or 16/17 cm for you all around sport climbing?
Wow this episode is really an outlier, way too many errors in it.
Showing the Beal Zest upside down a the beginning
Putting the finger in the draw for clipping
Having a back clipped draw in the dogbone test
Also not talking about the way the bottom draw is fixed to the dogbone witch has already killed climbers before if put wrongly and the error being hard to notice
I'm really disappointed at this video, which really looks like has been made only for promoting the EpicTV shop.
Your writing has a lot of errors as well. To? You mean, too? Witch? You mean, which?
You have a poor education, sad.
I agree, the video is full of errors, but if you'd like to criticize, make sure you don't like like a dummy.
@@ryanc9432 Yeah, I made some mistakes for sure, but you, insulting me, did too.
... you don't like like ...
That's definitely right 😅
@@ryanc9432 you don’t like like haha! The irony
Finger in the draw isn't a big deal. Ondra also suggested in his 2020 video, so I'm unconcerned.
This is not video on how to use quickdraws this is just a comparison, so I don't think your last point is valid. Other than that I really felt your comment. It doesn't feel right to watch a video of a chanel this size with close up shots of him doing a lot of rookie mistakes while clipping. I would expect a little bit more eye for detail.
I like the Proton ones but go damn they are expensive... I am currently using the BD Hybrid Hot Forge draws and they are the best for the price.
10:35 Nice wide dong-bone
How does Matt have time to run this channel and commentate on IFSC? Love your commentary by the way, only recently realised I was hearing your voice on both channels :)
Really appreciate you putting out these videos which are super helpful don't get me wrong, but this video I feel is a little pointless.
Feel like everyone clips how they clip and regardless of how you are doing it, it'll always be different for other people and especially in the moment of actually climbing . However its nice to see a varied collection of draws, and what they have on offer.
Well I´ve been using my 4 edelrid bulletproof for almost 2 years and seriously they are like brand new. I use them on and only for lowering, my rutes or the or my friend´s.
What about the petzel spirit?
how high is the wall
the friday gear shows are my favorite videos but damn, how many times are we going to talk about "sport climbing specific" quick draws
I love my hotforge qickdraws
For most of us, whichever quickdraw you choose makes ZERO difference.
Also the way Matt routinely puts his finger into and through the carabiner is very cringy.
Richard hammond is that you?
ワイヤーゲートは２度と使わない
外れたから
You look like judge rinder ordered from wish.