best climbing gear video on youtube in a long time. the length, detail, and entertainment value are on a whole different level. the edelrid folks and tommy seem awesome and very innovative. cannot wait to see more videos with tommy caldwell on more edelrid products like the rap line from this video or the steel insert carabiner in one of your rub master shorts.
Thanks for giving us so much value Ryan. It really does help to know more about what our gear can and cannot do, and how. Have a great 2025 brother. Hope you go from strength to strength. From all your Australian followers, thanks!! 🙏
Just copped the Tommy Caldwell Edelrid 70m rope from the HowNOT2 store. No joke the BEST deal I could find across the web on ANY rope of similar quality. Keep up the great work!
Because Tommy Caldwell climbs with the edelrid 6mm and the tests are going to show its super good enough. Get ready Ryan! This will become the hottest selling item in your store! And is all your going to see in Yosemite one day. The power of UA-cam is amazing!!!
Am a climbing instructor, have 2 weekly Kids-groups, I gave the older ones my pinch and they really enjoyed it. Felt apparently better to use than the grigri+ they are normally supposed to use. Actually told them nothing on how to load it, came just natural I suppose;)
My first belay device, as I am a complete beginner in mountaineering. But I absolutely do not regret that I bought it. I used it in different situations (often just rappelling) or climbing up the rope with the help of a hand cruiser and a carabiner axiom carabiner and a foot loop. But also for belaying another person. Super fun)
I'm a lover of thin ropes (to a point of scaring people). Hoever, the "dynamic" capacity of the edelrid 6mm rope depends on the aramid sheath component failing. I'm curious what a second fall would give for force. I suspect nylon dynamic ropes may also partly fail every time there is a big impulse. These data are likely buried in the uiaa test results, since they keep a record of force(t).
Thx for this awesome indepth video. Tommy is such a rad guy. I use the pinch now for 9 months and love it. Direct attachment makes all the difference. It is so easy do feed slack and belay with. Plus the style and color is great. 90degree rotation is a big plus climbing multipitch with belay from anchor.
When I have no rope in the system(or tons of slack in a safe area), my GriGri always swings down and smacks me in the balls, so I have to pay attention to that. With this being shorter(with direct attachment), it looks like I wouldn't really have to worry about that anymore.
I think as a sponsored athlete you just usually don't call out competitor companies by name (with either good or bad opinions) to keep your life easy with your sponsor, and not mess up projects with athletes sponsored by other companies... Although he does say grigri around 15:11 lol 👍
I’ve been an avid climber for 47 years, along with being a gear slut I’ve used most every belay device out there, my current favorite is the Click-Up Plus Bought a Neox and a Pinch last year Like them both, but the Pinch is really special! Personally I think it is quite a bit better than the Gri Gri than 2%! I’d say more like 25% better….if not more! It definitely feeds smoother and I love the straight-line rappel, and of course having the device closer to my body. Having said all that I still slightly prefer the Click-Up Plus. But the Pinch is awesome and in my mind clearly superior to the GriGri!
Amazing video! And love my Pinch… Kind of weird though that your test had a 8kN break force while Phil at the end said it’s rated for 12kN. Different test? Different versions? Not like I’m ever going to put that much force on it, but curious!
2% better isn't enough for me to switch from Grigri, but if the pinch works well for belaying a leader off the anchor(fixed point belay) I would consider that a major upgrade from the grigri. How about some testing of factor 2 lead falls with fixed point belay using the pinch?
Great video!! Can you test the Pinch versus the Neox? Neox in the sand bucket will really be interesting. I had mine sportclimbing for a few days in a sandy crag and it already started to be less smooth.
Any idea how well it would work with snowy ropes compared to the Gri? The teeth on the front seem like they could clean snow and ice off the rope better.
Great video but all I really want to know is where hell did TC get that jacket? I would LOVE to have one like that but I don't see it for sale on their website!
Since these are rated as a rope access descender(EN 12841-C), we got a couple of these to mess around with on a few different rope diameters. All of our work ropes are ~11mm, so that's what I've been testing these with mostly. I noticed they work just fine with clean 11mm, but any kind of dust on the ropes (I tried one in a cement silo) makes them crazy sticky (but still somewhat useable), so that could be why they didn't want to rate them to the full 11mm, despite that being the most common rope access rope diameter. I also like them for aiding, since they clip directly to your central D-ring, but are a bit jumpy when half-weighted, which is to be expected since they have higher spring tension.
Not having the biner on the harness would be a huge advantage for jugging with a grigri. Would certainly save a lot of jug cycles and allow you to get bigger movements.
I love the Gri Gri, but hey, when mine is worn out, this may be a contender. I figured the pinch was like the market a few years back when every company was making a different version of an ATC. Just get a BD guide and be done with it. All the others suck. But the pinch actually has innovated.
10:55 GriGri and GridLock are bleh. Maybe I didn’t have it configured correctly, but Petzl’s OK/Sm’D/Bm’D or even the BD RockLock interact with the GriGri far less awkwardly.
All edges on the Pinch in contact with the loop are well rounded. I use it for 9 months now and don‘t see any extra wear compared to the use with a beaner.
This has already been answered by Daniel from edelrid. It's just the same, as the angles of the device on the belay loop are just as if it would be a carabiner
I wont trust them until they integrate something like a spring loaded push pin to serve the function of a "locking carabiner" as discussed at 5:20 If implemented correctly, it would still be possible to remove/install one handed, but would ensure it's far more deliberate.
@@geometerfpv2804 it's really crazy because if you watch their marketing videos they seem to refuse to even mention the safety carabiner option even when people are saying it seems unsafe. They're also very committed to the "shouldn't open" wording, which makes it an even more baffling marketing decision.
well i have TRIED to put a 6mm tag line in my grigri and it does NOT hold attttt alll, so it's interesting to see the test result. altho i'm now more interested in that tag line lol
I am a little disappointed by the pinch. Let me explain why. I was looking forward to the pinch. When it finally was available for the staff at the gym I work at, I tested the device right away. I was looking for a second device to my grigri plus, which I purchased because the little friction and the extra steel plate. (My grigri had worn through after belaying and rapelling on it.) The spring tension is higher with the pinch. That's great. However the friction of the rope is higher. I always use the gaswerk method while belaying. Therefore I press done on the cam anyway. You can feel that the cam hardly raises when I feed out slack. However, my left arm needs to pull harder on the rope to pay out slack. That I find annoying compared to my smooth grigri plus. One thing I don't like about grigri is the fact that it coils the rope when you lower your partner. So, I hoped the pinch would be an improvement as I can use the groove. The rope doesn't coil as it bends 180 degrees in one direction and then in the other, thus nullifying the coil. However, this handling takes more times and hand pressure. My partner was asking me why lowering took me so long. Overall, the differences between grigri and pinch are relatively small. For me, the other benefits mentioned on the video (direct attachment on harness or master point) don't justify me buying the pinch as a second device. On the contrary, I've realised how much I love the grigri plus.
For belaying “hands free”: What happens if the dead end of the rope is not dangling down? For example because the coil of rope is put on top of a small boulder and the belayer is standing beside it.
Its weird that it broke at 8kn, but edelrid says it didn't pass the 11mm rope strength test cause it cut the rope, and describe the test in the same way is test it here. How is edelrid breaking a 11mm rope with this device in the same way?
My #1 question is how is the finger catch??? I only use it on the grigri to give slack extremely fast when those times arise, and when i do i love the huge finger catch. If the finger catch is anything like the crappy grigri+ then i can't jive with it. Finger catch.
I don't understand the benefit of using an ABD for the second climber while simul climbing. (ABD Assisted Breaking Device: GriGri, Pinch, ..). To me the way of climbing of the second climber then looks similar to Top Rope Solo. Then there would be proven better devices like e.g. Taz Lov (thick rope) or Trango Vergo (thin rope). Can someone explain why the Pinch is still the better choice compared to a Taz Lov/Trango Vergo anyway? Thx.
The belay device is for the follower "belaying" (hands free) the leader, not for the leader to act as a body anchor for a "top rope soloing" follower. More accurately you are just managing the slack between the two climbers, though, and not planning for the leader to fall either.
@@sakaricajanus90 thx for your answer, but that was not what I wanted to know. My point was an ABD seems not to be the best available device for the following climber to manage slack/belay hands free. the follower is attached to a straight rope like in a Tope Rope Solo situation. An ABD forces the rope to do some turns in the device. that causes a lot of friction, so an ABD is not self-feeding. Have a look at Caldwell/Honnold simul climb the Nose (ua-cam.com/video/XdOzbM_7GMI/v-deo.html). They are not climbing in sync, so there has to be a lot of slack management: - taking slack (second climber is catching up - very similar to TRS, why not using a device that works better than an ABD?) - giving slack ( leader is climbing faster) (don't know how it is done exactly, but I assume it would be easier if the leader is using a cache loop system to give slack himself when needed (like a Lead Rope Solo climber would do).
I am not a climber....when I hear technical talk about things I don't know my brain usually hides in the closet. This it didn't even leave the couch....hmmm maybe there's hope.
Ich wollte einen " Smart " von Mammut kaufen, in Düsseldorf, im Hin und weg, dort wurde mir gesagt, das sie keine Kletterausrüstung von Mammut mehr verkaufen, weil Mammut die Produktion von der Schweiz nach China verlagert haben. Gut so! Hab dann Edelrid gekauft, Made in Germany. 😊
Dont forget this is also the only assisted belay device that will work on a fixed point belay for multi pitching. For that alone I'd say this makes it essential kit now.
I would love to see some try what happens when you belay like in 1:55 and an unexpected fall happens. Especially when clipping close to the ground like here, cause I feel like the belayer would not be able to keep the climber from falling to the ground
You're right, I didn't notice he had his hand off the brake strand for the whole payout. That's not great. They need to make a version these devices for southpaws, it would be much safer.
This is what people do with the gri gri and petzl have gone a long way to educate people how this is dangerous.... of course it doesn't apply to pro climbers😅
@HowNOT2 I love mark!! It was great seeing you get out at that crag! It's such a beautiful place with awesome slab! Have you been climbing much out there? It's my favorite spot in the pnw. I haven't been to Yosemite/touleme yet but people say that I'll love it. Enjoy the slab!
17:52 - I used a grigri for rope access before I could get a Rig, and the grigri slipped like crazy under my weight (130-135lbs) on a 9.8mm rope. The grigri had barely seen any use and it was just laughably horrible for that purpose. (yes I understand. Slipping is good for catching falls, and yes, I understand this was not made for rope access, I’m just saying it did the same thing in your story you did.).
that's interesting, cuz I'm 135-140 and with my 9.8mm my grigris hold me, never slipped. Were you on a overhang or a slab?? (altho mine didn't slip on a slab either)
Hey I have a question. I'm a very large human, around 300lbs, and I'm curious if it's safe to climb with a normal lead setup. I know the forces with me climbing are gonna be higher but I always figured; run a thicker rope, tighter belay, and no light weight gear and I should be fine. Are my assumptions correct? Am I gonna die if I take a big whipper? Should I just stick to bouldering? I would love to see some data because no one seems to think about the climbing yetis.
So its heavier than a GriGri. More expensive than a GriGri. Slips at a lower load than a GriGri. but you can give a tiny bit more slack when belaying. They aren't rated for an 11mm rope so technical useless as a rope access device where most ropes are 11mm. I can't really see any reason to buy one.
Nah, it's great - runs smoother than my grigri and the extra slack you can give makes a real difference after a long day of belaying. Also, I got mine from a local store on BF for just 65 euro so cheaper than a grigri.
How much profit do you make a year from your climbing businesses? UA-cam channel included. I’m just super curious. I legit hope you make a lot but I feel like you don’t make as much as you should. I feel like you probably spend a LOT of money on the channel itself which definitely eats into any profits. If you don’t want to share the info… I totally understand.
He makes about 40k on YT alone. And yes, he deserves way more than that. I doubt he makes a huge amount from his online store as his profit margins are thin and he gives orders for free if they don't ship on time etc.
Sign up for my emails. I just shared all my 2024 data in the last email. $37k on youtube ad revenue, no sponsors. Doesn't cover the cost of the gear I break and the machines to break them. The store is the only way I can afford to do this and I'll be sharing some enlightening numbers soon. Grab your popcorn.
All the best, Ryan. Have you got a patreon!? That might help if people will chip in for the gear breaking. Or you could do a go-fund-me every now and then and let people know what gear you're going to be breaking with the proceeds, then people can contribute to the cost of the gear that we want to see broken.
@@NPC-fl3gq $5 a month on our supporter page is the equivalent in help as buying $100 worth of gear from the store! hownot2.com/products/hownot2-supporter-membership?variant=49270173106491 We have a few hundred supporters and it makes a big difference
Good to know. I guess we could also throw you some money via super-chat 🤔 Edit: I did so. Thought it was the easiest and fastest way to do it. Will consider being a Patreon sub too though (or maybe I will just buy more trad gear ...and a larger house to keep it in)!!
One thing I can't get over is the exposed, barely countersunk screws on the inside plate where the rope runs. I don't at all think it's a safety issue, but it's just a poor finish for such a device to firstly use screws where a rope is running, and also not countersink them sufficiently to prevent any edges being slightly exposed.
Grigri + sm'd for the win. 8kn is scary low, I know you'd be badly hurt before it broke but I'd rather be hurt and hanging than hurt and on the ground dead.
BTS each week in our emails hownot2.com/sign-up
Any chance you'll be carrying arborist equipment in the future?
@@LoreTunderinyes but not until I can do it well
Tommy is the perfect guest for this channel
best climbing gear video on youtube in a long time. the length, detail, and entertainment value are on a whole different level. the edelrid folks and tommy seem awesome and very innovative. cannot wait to see more videos with tommy caldwell on more edelrid products like the rap line from this video or the steel insert carabiner in one of your rub master shorts.
Thanks for giving us so much value Ryan. It really does help to know more about what our gear can and cannot do, and how. Have a great 2025 brother. Hope you go from strength to strength. From all your Australian followers, thanks!! 🙏
Just copped the Tommy Caldwell Edelrid 70m rope from the HowNOT2 store. No joke the BEST deal I could find across the web on ANY rope of similar quality. Keep up the great work!
Because Tommy Caldwell climbs with the edelrid 6mm and the tests are going to show its super good enough. Get ready Ryan! This will become the hottest selling item in your store! And is all your going to see in Yosemite one day. The power of UA-cam is amazing!!!
oh boy! lol
@@HowNOT2 you won't get so many repeat customer sales with that so ride those initial sales while you can
Yoo i love the honesty even having a climbing legend in the vid. Good shit Ryan!
Am a climbing instructor, have 2 weekly Kids-groups, I gave the older ones my pinch and they really enjoyed it. Felt apparently better to use than the grigri+ they are normally supposed to use. Actually told them nothing on how to load it, came just natural I suppose;)
ありがとうございます！
First device of its kind that is (relatively) left hander friendly. If you're a lefty, that makes it a hell of a lot better than "2%".
My first belay device, as I am a complete beginner in mountaineering. But I absolutely do not regret that I bought it. I used it in different situations (often just rappelling) or climbing up the rope with the help of a hand cruiser and a carabiner axiom carabiner and a foot loop. But also for belaying another person.
Super fun)
1:54 classic pro climber belay right there :D (I'm sure Tommy knows more than I do, it's just funny watching the pros break the rules)
This was an amazing conversation!
You should nerd out with Daniel, Head of Development at Edelrid. That would be a super nice video!
I'm a lover of thin ropes (to a point of scaring people). Hoever, the "dynamic" capacity of the edelrid 6mm rope depends on the aramid sheath component failing. I'm curious what a second fall would give for force. I suspect nylon dynamic ropes may also partly fail every time there is a big impulse. These data are likely buried in the uiaa test results, since they keep a record of force(t).
This was a good one, Ryan & Team❤
Tommy is a madman!!
Thx for this awesome indepth video. Tommy is such a rad guy. I use the pinch now for 9 months and love it. Direct attachment makes all the difference. It is so easy do feed slack and belay with. Plus the style and color is great. 90degree rotation is a big plus climbing multipitch with belay from anchor.
This is so sick wow! Love your channel 😍
When I have no rope in the system(or tons of slack in a safe area), my GriGri always swings down and smacks me in the balls, so I have to pay attention to that. With this being shorter(with direct attachment), it looks like I wouldn't really have to worry about that anymore.
Is Tommy legally banned from saying the word "grigri"?
I think as a sponsored athlete you just usually don't call out competitor companies by name (with either good or bad opinions) to keep your life easy with your sponsor, and not mess up projects with athletes sponsored by other companies... Although he does say grigri around 15:11 lol 👍
I’ve been an avid climber for 47 years, along with being a gear slut
I’ve used most every belay device out there, my current favorite is the Click-Up Plus
Bought a Neox and a Pinch last year
Like them both, but the Pinch is really special! Personally I think it is quite a bit better than the Gri Gri than 2%! I’d say more like 25% better….if not more!
It definitely feeds smoother and I love the straight-line rappel, and of course having the device closer to my body.
Having said all that I still slightly prefer the Click-Up Plus. But the Pinch is awesome and in my mind clearly superior to the GriGri!
0:40 immediately asking the question that has been on my mind!
@00:49, thanks for the disclosure.
Hopefully petzl could pay you equally to compare the pinch and the grigri.
Always 10/10 videos!
Saying 2% better might not be the best marketing phrase when it costs 9% more than a grigri haha
It's not really linear like that though. When it comes to life saving devices, plenty of people would spend 50% more for a few % edge
Edelrid's approved marketing wordings are very odd.
@14:56 that smiley face got me :D
Thank you for the video. Tommy is a huge inspiration of mine
What climb were you in the portal edge on at 25:00 in Yosemite?
Great video as always! 👍👍
that rub master 5000 is a super cool rig!
Amazing video! And love my Pinch…
Kind of weird though that your test had a 8kN break force while Phil at the end said it’s rated for 12kN. Different test? Different versions? Not like I’m ever going to put that much force on it, but curious!
2% better isn't enough for me to switch from Grigri, but if the pinch works well for belaying a leader off the anchor(fixed point belay) I would consider that a major upgrade from the grigri.
How about some testing of factor 2 lead falls with fixed point belay using the pinch?
That is badass to have the device right on your belay loop...
"Just ask cavers" 😂 OMG! So true!
I don't know why i watch all these gear videos. The vids are great, I just haven't climbed anything in like 20yrs.
🙈 same here. I think is tume for a real test now.
Great video!! Can you test the Pinch versus the Neox? Neox in the sand bucket will really be interesting. I had mine sportclimbing for a few days in a sandy crag and it already started to be less smooth.
Omg, the belaying at 1:54.
Ha yeah old skool...😮
this old school/euro way of belaying by pros is why we still have ppl think that's the norm lol
@@Mrwhomeyou agree
Looks fine. He has caught tens of thousands of falls this way. Certainly not in the manual, but most experienced climbers belay that way.
@@twinmike1 it is in the manual, both pinch and grigri has a picture that says don't do it that way lol
Any idea how well it would work with snowy ropes compared to the Gri? The teeth on the front seem like they could clean snow and ice off the rope better.
Got my pinch and a 60m 9.8 sterling for Black Friday 💪💪
Great video but all I really want to know is where hell did TC get that jacket? I would LOVE to have one like that but I don't see it for sale on their website!
Since these are rated as a rope access descender(EN 12841-C), we got a couple of these to mess around with on a few different rope diameters. All of our work ropes are ~11mm, so that's what I've been testing these with mostly. I noticed they work just fine with clean 11mm, but any kind of dust on the ropes (I tried one in a cement silo) makes them crazy sticky (but still somewhat useable), so that could be why they didn't want to rate them to the full 11mm, despite that being the most common rope access rope diameter. I also like them for aiding, since they clip directly to your central D-ring, but are a bit jumpy when half-weighted, which is to be expected since they have higher spring tension.
Not having the biner on the harness would be a huge advantage for jugging with a grigri. Would certainly save a lot of jug cycles and allow you to get bigger movements.
What about comparing to Neox?
I love the Gri Gri, but hey, when mine is worn out, this may be a contender.
I figured the pinch was like the market a few years back when every company was making a different version of an ATC.
Just get a BD guide and be done with it. All the others suck. But the pinch actually has innovated.
Good stuff!
16:36 LOL- YES! Caver representation! 🦇🦇🦇
Cavers are rappellers too lol
Thanks!
Ohhh, I might pick this guy up when I replace my grigri.
Are you still in Patagonia? I'm heading down in a few days, super stoked!
I spent a year filming this. I was there in May 2024 :)
@HowNOT2 oh! Hah! Well, I'm still stoked to be heading back down. Hitting up cochamo this time! I'm freshly stocked with gear from your store ;)
10:55 GriGri and GridLock are bleh. Maybe I didn’t have it configured correctly, but Petzl’s OK/Sm’D/Bm’D or even the BD RockLock interact with the GriGri far less awkwardly.
wear on the belay loop compared to a carabiner?
All edges on the Pinch in contact with the loop are well rounded. I use it for 9 months now and don‘t see any extra wear compared to the use with a beaner.
This has already been answered by Daniel from edelrid. It's just the same, as the angles of the device on the belay loop are just as if it would be a carabiner
For repelling stiff ropes the only good option is a long frame rack.
-same for extremely muddy swollen ropes
Wow, how old is that red & black Mnt Hardwear puffer jacket? First one I’ve seen in a decade that actually has loft like all the old jackets did! 👍🏼
I wont trust them until they integrate something like a spring loaded push pin to serve the function of a "locking carabiner" as discussed at 5:20
If implemented correctly, it would still be possible to remove/install one handed, but would ensure it's far more deliberate.
I can't believe they didn't do this. They really didn't forsee people being concerned?
They could have made it feel more secure. I agree.
They could re-print the manual to include ads for Climbers’ Insurance;)
@@geometerfpv2804 it's really crazy because if you watch their marketing videos they seem to refuse to even mention the safety carabiner option even when people are saying it seems unsafe. They're also very committed to the "shouldn't open" wording, which makes it an even more baffling marketing decision.
well i have TRIED to put a 6mm tag line in my grigri and it does NOT hold attttt alll, so it's interesting to see the test result. altho i'm now more interested in that tag line lol
6:32 the skepticism here
Can you test Madrock Safeguard in similar manner?
I am a little disappointed by the pinch. Let me explain why.
I was looking forward to the pinch. When it finally was available for the staff at the gym I work at, I tested the device right away. I was looking for a second device to my grigri plus, which I purchased because the little friction and the extra steel plate. (My grigri had worn through after belaying and rapelling on it.)
The spring tension is higher with the pinch. That's great. However the friction of the rope is higher. I always use the gaswerk method while belaying. Therefore I press done on the cam anyway. You can feel that the cam hardly raises when I feed out slack. However, my left arm needs to pull harder on the rope to pay out slack. That I find annoying compared to my smooth grigri plus.
One thing I don't like about grigri is the fact that it coils the rope when you lower your partner. So, I hoped the pinch would be an improvement as I can use the groove. The rope doesn't coil as it bends 180 degrees in one direction and then in the other, thus nullifying the coil. However, this handling takes more times and hand pressure. My partner was asking me why lowering took me so long.
Overall, the differences between grigri and pinch are relatively small. For me, the other benefits mentioned on the video (direct attachment on harness or master point) don't justify me buying the pinch as a second device. On the contrary, I've realised how much I love the grigri plus.
For belaying “hands free”: What happens if the dead end of the rope is not dangling down? For example because the coil of rope is put on top of a small boulder and the belayer is standing beside it.
Also, what happens if you’ve draped the dead end over your giant dog?
Commenting so Ryan can go do more stuff with people like Tommy! :)
what sunglasses are you wearing?
Damn, crazy good video
Its weird that it broke at 8kn, but edelrid says it didn't pass the 11mm rope strength test cause it cut the rope, and describe the test in the same way is test it here.
How is edelrid breaking a 11mm rope with this device in the same way?
what harness is this you are wearing?
My #1 question is how is the finger catch??? I only use it on the grigri to give slack extremely fast when those times arise, and when i do i love the huge finger catch. If the finger catch is anything like the crappy grigri+ then i can't jive with it.
Finger catch.
That lower body dummy is peak PNW. Just find a treat bit that's already the shape you need!
25:12 Notice it yet?
Yep. An error in the title. URL is wrong.
Damn, I checked it so many times!
jhey, rock exotica yes or not? thanks
"The cam action still works... while it is not attached to anything" uhhhh "I'm not sure how I feel about that" LOL
I don't understand the benefit of using an ABD for the second climber while simul climbing. (ABD Assisted Breaking Device: GriGri, Pinch, ..). To me the way of climbing of the second climber then looks similar to Top Rope Solo. Then there would be proven better devices like e.g. Taz Lov (thick rope) or Trango Vergo (thin rope). Can someone explain why the Pinch is still the better choice compared to a Taz Lov/Trango Vergo anyway? Thx.
The belay device is for the follower "belaying" (hands free) the leader, not for the leader to act as a body anchor for a "top rope soloing" follower. More accurately you are just managing the slack between the two climbers, though, and not planning for the leader to fall either.
@@sakaricajanus90 thx for your answer, but that was not what I wanted to know.
My point was an ABD seems not to be the best available device for the following climber to manage slack/belay hands free. the follower is attached to a straight rope like in a Tope Rope Solo situation. An ABD forces the rope to do some turns in the device. that causes a lot of friction, so an ABD is not self-feeding.
Have a look at Caldwell/Honnold simul climb the Nose (ua-cam.com/video/XdOzbM_7GMI/v-deo.html).
They are not climbing in sync, so there has to be a lot of slack management:
- taking slack (second climber is catching up - very similar to TRS, why not using a device that works better than an ABD?)
- giving slack ( leader is climbing faster) (don't know how it is done exactly, but I assume it would be easier if the leader is using a cache loop system to give slack himself when needed (like a Lead Rope Solo climber would do).
Falling upside down? (couse they say gri don't catch)
I am not a climber....when I hear technical talk about things I don't know my brain usually hides in the closet.
This it didn't even leave the couch....hmmm maybe there's hope.
4:55 - no context- climbers make the best lovers
Looks like it might be time for a change
Buy from HowNOT2!!!
Grigri sales drop 100%
Guys, does anyone know how to get Mountain Hardwear products shipped to Italy?
Ich wollte einen " Smart " von Mammut kaufen, in Düsseldorf, im Hin und weg, dort wurde mir gesagt, das sie keine Kletterausrüstung von Mammut mehr verkaufen, weil Mammut die Produktion von der Schweiz nach China verlagert haben.
Gut so!
Hab dann Edelrid gekauft, Made in Germany.
😊
Dont forget this is also the only assisted belay device that will work on a fixed point belay for multi pitching. For that alone I'd say this makes it essential kit now.
It’s not the only
@@Sparky210-11 Can you tell us another?
Gri-gri and Cinch
It's slightly heavier than a Grigri but not heavier than a Grigri and the required carabiner.
I would love to see some try what happens when you belay like in 1:55 and an unexpected fall happens. Especially when clipping close to the ground like here, cause I feel like the belayer would not be able to keep the climber from falling to the ground
You're right, I didn't notice he had his hand off the brake strand for the whole payout. That's not great. They need to make a version these devices for southpaws, it would be much safer.
This is what people do with the gri gri and petzl have gone a long way to educate people how this is dangerous.... of course it doesn't apply to pro climbers😅
Were you in washington @24:03? Was that mark hannah?
Yes, and I live in WA.
@HowNOT2 I love mark!! It was great seeing you get out at that crag! It's such a beautiful place with awesome slab! Have you been climbing much out there? It's my favorite spot in the pnw. I haven't been to Yosemite/touleme yet but people say that I'll love it. Enjoy the slab!
I don’t have any kind of assisted devices, I’m looking at this for tree climbing.
17:52 - I used a grigri for rope access before I could get a Rig, and the grigri slipped like crazy under my weight (130-135lbs) on a 9.8mm rope. The grigri had barely seen any use and it was just laughably horrible for that purpose. (yes I understand. Slipping is good for catching falls, and yes, I understand this was not made for rope access, I’m just saying it did the same thing in your story you did.).
that's interesting, cuz I'm 135-140 and with my 9.8mm my grigris hold me, never slipped. Were you on a overhang or a slab?? (altho mine didn't slip on a slab either)
What hooded shirt do you have on you at 0:05 ?
It's the outdoor research echo hoodie
Laguna de Los Tres. Better than chocolate in a snow cave
0:45 Now I know who he reminds me of: Christoph Waltz
Are people really concerned about 30 grams? That's like a sip of water.
For the love of God 😂
A classic how not 2 disclaimer lol
Apparently I'm not cool enough to submit comments here
Sad
21:40 anyone know what jacket this is?
Reverse image search says La Sportiva Upendo
15:39 Phrasing…
Hey I have a question. I'm a very large human, around 300lbs, and I'm curious if it's safe to climb with a normal lead setup. I know the forces with me climbing are gonna be higher but I always figured; run a thicker rope, tighter belay, and no light weight gear and I should be fine. Are my assumptions correct? Am I gonna die if I take a big whipper? Should I just stick to bouldering? I would love to see some data because no one seems to think about the climbing yetis.
ua-cam.com/video/Tnk4Ky-D9Bg/v-deo.htmlsi=rLCLcP2ffVEBp7S0
290lb guy whipping for science - ua-cam.com/video/Tnk4Ky-D9Bg/v-deo.html
So its heavier than a GriGri.
More expensive than a GriGri.
Slips at a lower load than a GriGri.
but you can give a tiny bit more slack when belaying.
They aren't rated for an 11mm rope so technical useless as a rope access device where most ropes are 11mm.
I can't really see any reason to buy one.
Nah, it's great - runs smoother than my grigri and the extra slack you can give makes a real difference after a long day of belaying. Also, I got mine from a local store on BF for just 65 euro so cheaper than a grigri.
9:16 Yeah, but you’re not putting eyes on the gap of the cam whilst actively camming.
How much profit do you make a year from your climbing businesses? UA-cam channel included. I’m just super curious. I legit hope you make a lot but I feel like you don’t make as much as you should. I feel like you probably spend a LOT of money on the channel itself which definitely eats into any profits. If you don’t want to share the info… I totally understand.
He makes about 40k on YT alone.
And yes, he deserves way more than that.
I doubt he makes a huge amount from his online store as his profit margins are thin and he gives orders for free if they don't ship on time etc.
Sign up for my emails. I just shared all my 2024 data in the last email.
$37k on youtube ad revenue, no sponsors. Doesn't cover the cost of the gear I break and the machines to break them. The store is the only way I can afford to do this and I'll be sharing some enlightening numbers soon. Grab your popcorn.
All the best, Ryan.
Have you got a patreon!?
That might help if people will chip in for the gear breaking.
Or you could do a go-fund-me every now and then and let people know what gear you're going to be breaking with the proceeds, then people can contribute to the cost of the gear that we want to see broken.
@@NPC-fl3gq $5 a month on our supporter page is the equivalent in help as buying $100 worth of gear from the store! hownot2.com/products/hownot2-supporter-membership?variant=49270173106491
We have a few hundred supporters and it makes a big difference
Good to know.
I guess we could also throw you some money via super-chat 🤔
Edit: I did so. Thought it was the easiest and fastest way to do it. Will consider being a Patreon sub too though (or maybe I will just buy more trad gear ...and a larger house to keep it in)!!
One thing I can't get over is the exposed, barely countersunk screws on the inside plate where the rope runs.
I don't at all think it's a safety issue, but it's just a poor finish for such a device to firstly use screws where a rope is running, and also not countersink them sufficiently to prevent any edges being slightly exposed.
Happy New Year everyone (Posted January ,1 ,2025)
8:09. Hi Ryan et al! Happy New Year! this is a factor 2 fall with like 4 ft of slack?
asking for a friend ;)
Happy new year. It's technically less than a factor 1. The dummy doesn't go past the belay device.
@@HowNOT2 great, Thanks for the quick reply!
4:56 the things Ryan gets away with posting on youtube
Grigri + sm'd for the win. 8kn is scary low, I know you'd be badly hurt before it broke but I'd rather be hurt and hanging than hurt and on the ground dead.