The Do's And Dont's of Alpine QuickDraws
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- Опубліковано 21 січ 2022
- Alpine quickdraws are a must! You would be very surprised how many people build their quickdraws wrong. If that's you I hope this video demystifies it for you. If you found it useful let me know. And thank you for all the support It keeps me going.
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That was actually exactly what i wanted to see. Whyyy the alpine quick draw can be clipped anywhere and it will still work. Seeing you explain how it was spooled up helped
Exactly, it’s not just about knowing how to do something but understanding why 💪
Good video. From a teaching standpoint, I think it's best to show the correct way to shorten it, then show the wrong ones afterwards. Short attention spans out here in youtube land, so first thing to get across is how to do it right.
This is super useful. I remember when I shower this to my climbing friend who started climbing way earlier than me and was amazed by the simplicity and usefullnes of it. Nice explanation on the table. Thanks Josh!
The really big thing about “alpine” quickdraws is how flexible they are. One piece is a short QD, medium QD, a long QD and a 120cm sling.
When leading a trad climb having a lot of different tools to solve the problems of the climb with is important especially without adding to the amount of kit carried.
Thank you very much for this video!
Thanks. Very well explained
I love your videos man! Keep up the good work my friend!
Super useful and super clear video.Great job! I could follow the steps you showed without difficulty. I use alpine quickdraws in big walls and this is going to come in very handy. Much appreciated, Thanks!
come on...beta climber can so better...like use a rope on bench...please consider actual demonstrations with a climbing rope and insert clips from climbing trad of doing the draw clips
Awsome deffo the video I never knew I needed
Thank you, Josh! So essential, and perfectly explained!
🤙🏻
Thank u thank u. Love u bro!
Thank you!
Nice work!!
beautiful explanation and visualization!
Thanks!
This is why I subscribe to your channel. Amazing video, thank you for teaching me the right way.
Came to the channel for fails, learned a cool trick. Right on!
Hey man, thank you!
Everything you just said at the end is basically my climbing history.
Sick video!
awesome
Difficult to explain, but you nailed it.
Great video and good tips! I hate it when I loan someone my quickdraws for a lead and they come back all twisted and terrible.
Great vid, thanks!
You could add a section about why and how and how not to fix the rope-side biner of an alpine quick draw.
@BetaClimbers I WAS MESSING AROUND WITH THIS! IT'S IMPORTANT NOT TO CLIP 2 LINES OF THE SLING!
Slipped right out. Looked like the carabiner grabbed 2, pulled on it, caught zero, fell on the ground.
Started out with trad no bolts in Caneticut and always had alpine drows
Hey, thank you for the great Visuali-'dingsbums' (🤪 how we would say in Germany). When I come back home, I'll try it out myself emidiat-'dingsbums'...
Greetings from Cologne
Jochen
Legit tip 👍🏽
Working early today!!
Thanks for video! What about falling on alpin quickdraws
Thank you for the video. Always seems to be well thought out information.
Video on dynema vs nylon vs polyester etc
I might start carrying one made from aramid instead of dyneema. Still 22Kn, slightly heaver. But it also functions as a prusik.
They say Aramid isn’t good against shock loading, so it wouldn’t make a good quick draw id say.
What is your suggested method for shoulder length slings? They are so long I end up doing what you did here, plus adding a twist, and I just can't imagine that is the right way. Thanks.
Like this length?
ua-cam.com/video/zz4no1T8bfQ/v-deo.html
120cm slings over the shoulder at full length or doubled/tripled as QD’s. 240cm slings doubled with a twist over the shoulder with the karabiner at the front (if your wearing a rucksack underneath and inside the shoulder strap is best that way it’s easiest to pull out). 480cm I will fold twice and then twist up before folding again and clipping to the back of the harness and on a screw gate as that is almost certainly belay building gear.
Such good content mate :+1:
The Dos And Don'ts of using apostrophes to differentiate between contraction and plurals :)
Does it matter if the biner is opposing or facing the same direction?
That’s a good question. You typically want the rope falling opposite the gate, so I’d want them facing the same way so I can quickly clip it with the spin up on both sides.
wishing u had covered the double length sling and how to clip it alpine
odd number of strands in biner means it wont fall out when u extend
and cover how to clean an alpine draw to easily exchange gear at next belay
hint u can alpine a draw while its still attached to rope after unclipping it from gear
or put them over the shoulder and rack them over the shoulder with one biner only per sling
That’s what I do just throw them over my shoulder when cleaning the pitch. 🤙🏻 I’ll looks into that trick you mentioned.
Are there any risks to using a dyneema sling for this with regards to falling and shock loading?
For quick draws you always have the rope that will prevent a high shock. But yeah nylon slings stretch more then a dyneema one will. But dyneema is lighter and less bulky.
@@BetaClimbers oooh, I didn't think of that. So ultimately the stretch in the rope would absorb most of the impact reducing the load on the draw. Thanks
My favourite quick and dirty bolted (with rings) anchor build:
Alpine draw, unfold, larksfoot to one of the bolts. Other bolt, use the two biners of the alpine draw opposite and opposed. Make your masterpoint knot of choice, and you are done!
Obviously don't larksfoot your slings to bolts with sharp edges, only do this with rings or round glueins.
Bon travail, mon ami! It's pièce de résistance, btw. 🙂
With alpine QDs, I often worry about back-clipping, which becomes less obvious when sling is extended vs regular QDs. Am I over-thinking?
The flop in the longer quick draw makes it much less of a problem as it can twist and float a lot more anyway
Yes.
id consider falling on a nut to be the biggest wiggle there is so how exactly are you supposed to avoid wiggling it?
If you fall on it you are jamming it into the crack, unless it's placed incorrectly. While climbing, the wiggling would act in a different direction, opposite of the way it is meant to be loaded.
@@raphaelbeinhauer9242 I dont mean once your weight gets stopped by it I mean when you ball you pull the rope which can wiggle the nut, once your weight is cought however as you said it would pull it down into the rock... but before that Is what im talking about
@@recorpse9698 With the alpine sling the sling takes (most of) all the wiggle unlike the sport QD which has stiff slings. There´s always a risk that enough wiggle still can make the nuts pop out but that´s why you place them as correct as you can, place many of them (many in this case being very subjective) and/or use friends/cams.
@@tobbepysslare5146 understandable. I don't really climb tho I wish I did. I really should start going out to climbing gyms and stuff but my extreme social anxiety being on my own makes it near impossible as I am now
i totally love this, and i have a question that has been nagging me around.
Do you see any use and/or advantge into making an alpine quickdraw with rubber holder like the peztl protector? Because i allways have this feeling of cross loading being way more probable on alpine draws, and then again it feelslike a bit of an offshute using those rubber holders on alpine draws, it would mess with the ease of redundancy
You might run into other issues like localized wear/tear points or the carabiner unclipping like a hard on hard clip in. I haven’t tried it but the fact that no one else does it make me weary…
@@BetaClimbers what do you mean by hard on hard clip in?
@@itrstt66 if you clip to carabiners into each other they can easily spin around and unclip themselves this why the rubber part on draws are always on the rope end.
@@BetaClimbers i see, and now i am not following how does it relate to The question.. i am totally clueless
@@itrstt66 so if you solidify the carabiner it could unclip easier in some cases I’d think.
are you related to bill perry the BMXer?
Like all things, just watch a couple youtube videos on safety and you are good to go.
Ha! 🤣😁😆😳
if you fold it in half and put the second in sliding -x it won't be a problem
My bad, he said that later
🤙🏻
You must drink more than me
29th
What's the magic?? You can clip any one you want??? 1 of the 3 will make you pull the whole sling out of the top liner. That's also why you never put that one on with a rubber retainer or tape.
It wasn't useful for me. Not because it's not an excellent video, but because I already knew!
Yeah it’s a climbing basic video I think I have to get more organized and make a playlist of “essential skills” or something and I’ll add this. Thanks for the comment. 🤙🏻
This guy talks too much. Little information. Just him trying to be relevant
Ew!