Great question! You could, but typically you shouldn't need to in residential structures. If you do not have a sump basin or interior drain-tile system, and the soil beneath your home is very dense clay or wet sand, you may need to "T-off" of your main system and add extra collection points to increase the field extension under the slab. Hope this helps!
Now this may be a dumb question but does coring that small hole for the flexible hose reading the preassure on the u-tube cause any radon gas leakage through the cracks in that hole?
Great video. Nice installation. My guy put a plastic cover on and sealed it with foil tape, not nearly as professional looking. Is there an easy way to test the sump pump without removing the cover?
Frank Steen thanks for the kind words! The best way to test your sump without removing the lid is to have an access port. Anyone installing to current AARST/NRPP standards should be installing a proper access port. The easiest way to add one is to core a 4-inch hole into the top of the cover and buy a 4-inch, threaded plumbing access port. Once you place it in your 4-inch core hole the lip should hold it from falling through and you can caulk it down with a high quality polyurethane to ensure it doesn’t spin on you. I hope this helps!
I just bought a home and the seller’s were required to install a radon system. The tube with the liquid gauge is in the garage and the venting pipe lets out through the roof of the garage. But my bedroom is above the garage so all the air the radon venting pipe is letting out is literally on the other side of the wall where my head rests while sleeping. House is vinyl siding and not brick. I mean I can hear the constant humming coming from the pipe from inside the bedroom. Was this done safely?? Is that radon gas seeping into the bedroom through the wall and while I sleep??
Thanks for reaching out! I think the best thing to do would be test your room and see what the levels are. However, in terms of standards as long as the exhaust vent is 10-ft from a window, or two feet above the window, you should be compliant that way. Typically, once exhausted outside, the gas is diluted rather quickly so I believe you should be OK. The tough part is that every home is different and the only sure way to know is to test. My recommendation would be to test the room of concern :) hope this helps!
lpz the customer usually calls us because they had a test that indicated high levels. On some occasions we do the initial test too, but whatever the case we always do a retest to show that the results are below the EPA standard of 4.0 pCi/l - if for whatever reason they are not we guarantee the results so we will continue to work on the house until the levels drop.
@@brianthompson2002 thank you for the quick response didn't expect that. I was just curious on how much it dropped it ..in that case. My radon came back at 3.18.pcl . Garland Tx.
lpz My pleasure! This house started around 7 pCi/l and we got it down to 0.3 pCi/l. I would say that’s a typical drop when there is drain-tile present. It can be a lot tougher down south or even up here in Wisconsin with slab-on-grade homes or homes with crawl spaces (although I am not aware of your situation). I hope that helps!!
Good question! Depending on the system, you need to seal the top of that perimeter drainage system. Is it’s a typical “weeping wall system” that is, a system where small holes are drilled at the bottom of the block to allow water to weep into the newly installed drain-tile, you will have to seal the top of that baseboard trim (typically looks like a black, waffle board pattern) around the entire perimeter of where it was installed. If it’s pulled away from the wall, you should use backer rod so the caulk does not fall behind and clog the holes. This will ensure that even when sealed, the system will work as designed. If it’s tight to the wall, simple masonry (polyurethane) caulk across the top should suffice. If you have a different system where a large perimeter gap is just simply created in the concrete (almost like a large floor to wall French drain system) you may not be able to seal that. You may instead have to drop your pipe in the middle of the home, as far away from the perimeter at all points as possible, and attempt to create a negative pressure with a dug out collection point (5-10 gallons minimum of the sub-slab material) greater than that of the natural pressure differential between the home and the soil. This will help attempt to create a vacuum under the slab with less potential for the perimeter gap to steal air from the structure (ultimately breaking the vacuum). Hope this helps! Good luck to you!
@@georgelichak3972 You can try and do it without sealing but it may not work. Best advice would be to install it and seal what you can and then retest. If the levels don't go down on the retest, you will have to cut the drywall away at the bottom to seal all the way around. You could also try the other methodology I mentioned of dropping it out in the middle/away from the perimeter drainage.
@@lifetimeradonsolutions9498 one more question. What is the reason for not being able to put a 180 degree bend in the exhaust pipe over the roof line to keep water out?
@@georgelichak3972 Thanks for asking. It’s against standards of practice because it restricts airflow so much and redirects the affected air toward conditioned areas of living. Ultimately the airflow restriction leads to a less effective system but also potential freeze ups in the winter as the air tumbles at the top and is more likely to condensate and freeze causing ice dams and premature fan burnouts. Lastly, it is unnecessary to cover it or put elbows at the top because even if you look as passive plumbing vents (ones that don’t have a fan pushing away water) you can see they are wide open as well. Radon systems remove a ton of moisture (anywhere from 2-4 tons annually according to the EPAs study on sub-slab depressurization systems as moisture control systems) and so the moisture or water is totally fine going through the system and ultimately back into the drain/tile, sump or sub-slab material. Hope this helps!
Great video, thanks. I have a question. Why is the PVC pipe left straight up above the roof and not with a hood or like a candy cane. Doesn't that allow rain water into the system and then make more work for the sump pump?
Hey! Thanks for reaching out. Typically there is enough air moving through the pipe that minimal rain gets into the sump (the air pressure exiting precludes much from getting in). By depressurization the sump and ultimately the drain-tile you can ensure that you are effectively pulling air around the entire footprint of the foundation. That is why drain-tile/sump depressurization is such a common and effective means of mitigation.
Thanks for the video! Do you have any videos or suggestions on the sump cover itself?? How to drill the holes and/or sealing around the pipe? Also what is the best way/tools for coring through the house and/or if I was to go into the slab vs my sump crock? TIA
Thanks for the reply! Unfortunately at this time I do not BUT we use quarter inch Polycarbinate sheeting. Simply trace the diameter of your sump and use a jigsaw to cut it to size. In terms or coring through the Polycarbinate-I usually use a 100 tooth hole saw bit (either 3.5inch or 3 5/8 if I want a little more wiggle room. From there, you can use rubber grommets to seal or just silicone caulk. Lastly, we use a carbide tip core bit on a Bosch rotary hammer drill to drill through the concrete floor and tie into the drain-tile. This should work too if you have to core through block, stone or brick. If you are going through siding and wood you will want something a bit different. We usually use a right angle drill with spyder carbide hole saw bits. If you have a poured foundation and you have to go through that, then you may need something meaner...I would recommend a diamond wet-core rig...this will help cut through the rebar. I hope this helps!
How would this work if my home has an existing sump pump (Illinois) and the pump sits down inside there like you were saying? Does this make the install easier? I honestly wasnt even aware there was any other type of sump pump. Also is an electrician required? Im a union electrician so i could do my own power setup if necessary. And lastly, wear an n95 mask when drilling through brick or concrete. Silica dust is dangerous
what if you need to service your sump pump? They don't last forever.... I've had to replace mine about ever 5 years. Also did you put a cap on the top of that pipe or is it open to the elements where rain can just get in.
Hey! If you need to get into the sump to change the pump we typically put a crosscut through where the sump line ejects. This makes it easy to simply peel off the silicone seal and pop the lid off in less than a few minutes. In terms of leaving the top open, in northern states like here in Wisconsin it is important to leave the top open. This is because any cap will restrict airflow substantially, causing the air to tumble at the top. When you are pulling relatively warm air (40-50 degree F) from beneath the slab in the winter and the air on the outside of the home is super cold (below 0 F), it will condensate and cause ice dam/freezing issues that will prematurely burnout the fan motor. If you are in a more temperate climate, you can use a cap but it isn't overly necessary as the fans are designed to pass moisture through the system and that moisture will ultimately drain back into the sump.
So this is working as a sump pump and a radon system, correct. ? What if I don’t need the sun pump set up? What can I do just for the radon after the house is already built. (New house )
Matt Robin thanks for the kind words! It’s hard to remember but I think when we filmed the basement portion of the install the electrician wasn’t fully finished with the fan hookup. However, explaining the manometer is definitely a good thing to cover on the next video!! Thanks again for your input!
Good question! It depends on your state code and whether or not the contingency requirement specifies if the homeowner can put it in or if a “qualified/certified/NRPP” professional must put it in. Here in WI you could put it in as a homeowner as there is no state adopted regulation concerning radon. Moreover, the fan can only be placed in one of three places according to the national standards of practice - that is, either the outside of the home, the garage (if there is no living space above the garage) or an attic. The thought process is that the positive pressure side of the fan/pipping (exhaust) should never be within an occupied or potentially occupiable living space should it ever leak. Hope this helps!
Mark s yes it’s definitely a difference. I think I know the part of the video that you are referring to now, though. What I was explaining is that if the sump is not properly sealed when you are pulling air from the pit you can actually pull air from inside of the basement. This can be problematic when appliances are near by (depending on the efficiency) as the fans negative pressure can backdraft CO2 from those appliances.
Lifetime Radon Solutions, following up on Mark s’ question, how about interior air being drawn from cracks/joints between the slab and the foundation wall? I have a basement that is partially finished, so I cannot seal all of these cracks as they are inaccessible in the finished areas. Could back drafting still be an issue for me?
Mark s - I think you're referring to what Brian was discussing at around the 1:50 mark - backdrafting and CO (carbon monoxide). I think backdrafting refers to natural gas furnaces (and maybe oil and/or fireplaces) that produce carbon monoxide as well as other noxious gases when they produce heat. If your basement has a constant vacuum but it is sucking air from the basement and not the floor, the exhaust gases that should be leaving could be pulled back in to the home (backdrafted) where they can make you sick. I suppose that gas water heaters could be a problem as well, but generally don't use as much gas and thus don't produce as many noxious fumes, and if you have an electric furnace, you probably have an electric water heater and all of this isn't a concern. I say this because I heard Brian say carbon "di"oxide the first time as well :-) CO2 also isn't good for you, but not as big of a concern as CO in the short term or radon in the long term. You need a little CO2 and Nitrogen mixed with the O2. Also you'll KNOW if you have CO2 poisoning. CO poisoning just makes you feel a little icky and sleepy, then you go to sleep and it kicks in and you die :-( Overall, nice job on the video, Brian and TJ. My only critique would be to "get on to it". Leave out the intro, outro, and that guitar tune we've all heard a zillion times and you'll look more professional.
Bro the pump only runs when the float activates it, aka the basin is filled with water. In the summer when I get a few days without rain my pump is bone dry down there, but it's off
Yes! Sub-slab depressurization is considered the most effective means of mitigation because it takes care of the issue at the source (beneath the slab) and done in virtually every state in the US!
Hey guys, great vid! Question though, if I want to use 4" pipe for the system, but the fancy lid I purchased has a nice threaded outlet for 3" pipe, if I use the 3" coupling and step up immediately with an adapter to 4", does that defeat the purpose of the 4" pipe? Will the fan still demand the same airflow through the system, it'll just increase velocity a bit at the lid when it momentarily passes through 3 inches? Thanks!
Hey! Sorry - I must have missed this comment. You can do that but it will choke your suction point to some degree. Depending on the application, in this scenario, it may make sense to run 3" pipe below the fan and 4" pipe above the fan. This is a common practice in the industry. Hope this helps!
@@lifetimeradonsolutions9498 thanks I went ahead with the install back then and elected to just go 4" all the way and cut and fabricate my own new opening on the lid. Glad I did it, super quiet and excellent flow rate according to my manometer calculations with the RP145
Had a unit installed before we moved in to our house. They installed it near the pump and everytime it rains heavily the radon fan pulls water up the radon pipe and water sprays everywhere. Any ideas because the guys that installed it said that they have no clue. Called them twice and I just gave up drilled a whole in stuck a tap in it and open it up ever time it rains. Any ideas?
Hey Peter! Thanks for commenting! Did they install into the drain-tile next to the sump pit or into the sump pit itself? If into the sump lid (that is the sump crock/pit) itself it might be that the pipe is driven too deep into the sump basin. It is really only necessary that it sits below the cover about an inch or two. Also, it could be that you need to adjust the height of your sump pump float...so that the water doesn’t get so high in the crock that it is pulled into the pipe. If the pipe is tied into the drain tile this may be a bit more complicated of a fix. What I have done in the past is made sure the pipe is simply hovering over the drain tile rather than touching it. Further, I have made sure that part or half of the pipe is over the drain tile while the other half is over the gravel. That will relieve some of the pressure on the drain tile and even it out over the gravel (which is still porous and will not compromise the field extension under the slab in most situations). This should allow the system to still be effective while not creating an aggressive enough suction that pulls the water through your pipe. I hope this helps!!!
Thanks for asking! They are treated as most standard PVC is. Therefore, there can be some yellowing over time but typically the treatments keep them pretty white. What I have seen is some of the lower quality fans tend to yellow very quickly. The fans we use stay white no matter what. Also, many of our customers paint the system to match the color of their home. They are allowed to paint the system and the fan, just not the top piece on the fan that covers the electrical box as this piece has the serial number for the warranty information. I hope that helps!
The best pipe for out door use to prevent yellowing and damage is schedule 40 solid core pipe! That pipe according to national radon code should be used throughout the whole system
Yes - major cracks can definitely cause issues. In this particular home, after system activation, we tested the cracks with a “smoke pen” to see if the negative pressure was pulling air through the cracks. The slab at this property was in pretty good shape - if I remember correctly we had to seal some cracks/gaps but because it was relatively new construction, there was a vapor barrier under the slab that also ensured a tighter vacuum. I hope that helps!
Oh... So you're telling me that "sump pit" in my basement was supposed to have a water pump in it pumping to outside all these years?! I know that sounds common sense, but I never knew. I thought it was just to see if there was flooding. How could my builder not put a pump?!? Lol jesus
tad travis that’s a great question! Typically (and ironically) the diameter of the condensation bypass is small and when pulling 40-50 degree (F) air from beneath the slab, the much cooler outdoor air (during Wisconsin winter months) condenses at the bypass and we typically see that they become frozen and useless. We use really good fans (Festa Radon Technologies) that are designed to take water through them and typically we do not have a problem when they are properly installed. In short, you definitely could install a condensation bypass (there is certainly nothing wrong with them) but in 22-years experience we have found them to be less than useful when needed most. Therefore, to keep costs competitive for our customers, keep things simple, and overall personal preference we simply do it install them very often on residential, exterior installs.
Because all Radon fans are made to accept the water draining back through the fan and into the suction pit. We have done a couple thousand systems in North West Iowa and never had an issue with moisture running back through the fans, or needing a useless varmet cover
Hey! Thanks for the comment! It’s actually quite easy-it’s important to use clear silicone caulk for both aesthetics but also it is much easier to unseal. You simply score the sealed portion with a knife/razor and pop the lid off. You disconnect the radon pipe at the black rubber coupling so you don’t need to cut it and the sump lid is cross cut so you don’t need to cut/disconnect that pipe in the event of an emergency. I hope this helps!!
@@lifetimeradonsolutions9498 I can't follow the last two sentences in your explanation of how are you can easily service the sump pump when needed. It would be great if you could provide a labeled picture explaining what you mean or a short video doing the same.
From a geologist point of view, there is no system today that eliminates the presence of radon unless you remove all the soil, bedrock or the grade on which the foundation and the house sets. In fact, before the house is built in the geological test should include such a radon test. However, this is more like a placebo pill which makes a very good niche to make a lot of money and good for you if homeowners are not educating themselves and learn that a $30 fan/venting outside can take care of pretty much any kind of soil emanations, fumes, odors. It is more dangerous the microwave radiations than the overrated and blown out of proportions radon gas coming from the decay products of uranium in the ground beneath homes, streets or buildings which also can seep in through cracks, sumps, joints, floor drains or other tiny openings in foundations or crawl spaces. Your installation only prevents the infiltration at the pump but not the total elimination of radon presence.
Thanks for your time and comment! I just want to state that no claim was made that radon was completely removed from the structure but rather it was stated that it was mitigated. According to the Oxford Dictionary, mitigate means “to make less severe, serious, or painful.” -that is what radon mitigation does. There are a lot of misconceptions about radon...but it is natural and it is everywhere around us. It is impossible to make it go away completely. In fact, even if you test fresh, outside air you generally read somewhere between 0.3-0.7 pCi/l. What a radon system or a sub-slab depressurization system does is redirect existing radon from beneath the structure so less enters into the home through pressure differentials. For example, indoor radon levels tend to be higher in the winter. Many think this is because the home is sealed in the winter, however, many homes are sealed in the summer too (when the a/c is running). The true issue in the winter is what is known as stack effect-the same concept that pulls smoke up through your chimney. When homeowners heat their homes in the winter, the heat rises and eventually leaves the structure. This loss of air creates a negative pressure that can draw soil gasses, like radon, into the structure. Since homes are sealed tighter than ever before, these levels can grow to levels that substantially increase ones risk of lung cancer over prolonged, consistent exposure. The sub-slab systems we custom design and build for homeowners just simply use a series of piping and fan/fans to create a negative pressure under the slab that is greater than that of the pull from the structure (the vast majority of the time) and in turn, since radon gas finds the path of least resistance, it is pulled up through the piping and vent system (by the suction of fan) and directed (by the blowing of fan) outside rather than into the sealed, confined space of the structure. The EPA warns that levels above 4.0 pCi/l can dramatically increase ones risk of lung cancer. If we can take homes that test above 4.0 pCi/l and reduce them to levels similar to outdoor air quality, surely there is an advantage-namely a decreased chance of lung cancer. I have personally mitigated homes with my team well over 100 and 150 pCi/l... we get their levels consistently down below 4.0 pCi/l and most of the time well below 2.0 or 1.0 pCi/l. Homes where real people and pets have passed away from lung cancer.
@@brianthompson2002 EPA does not represent the scientific community or have the legal authority to enforce any kind of claim without documented evidence. The only thing they can do is to suggest, advise or warn the public regarding eventual risks related to a certain situation or circumstances and to talk about and know radon you have to be a chemist, biologist, physicist or geologist which EPA, plumbers or other people copying each other like parrots are not. However, you cannot control the levels of constant, continuous and present necessary particles of anything unless you are modifying an entire echo system or the environment in which case we have to modify the entire planet since it is in the air we breathe. That applies to anything in nature including you, can you modify or change the amount of hydrogen and cyanide in your body or the oxygen intake, water levels? No, because you dye. Brian we all have to make a living but insinuating, justifying or enforcing an assumption does not represent the truth or change the facts and if you want or believe EPA are you willing to bet $1000 on your claim that you are able to control the level and reduce the presence of radon on the entire house permanently with that silly installation?
milos Karoly In terms of a geologist point of view, I am truly surprised to hear your position. I work with geologists on a daily basis building these same kind of systems to not only reduce radon levels in structures but also VOC’s from soil and ground water pollution that are brought into the structure through the same pressure concepts. In most of these commercial VOC/vapor intrusion applications we use custom fans that generally have 5-figure price tags (never have I or any professional in this industry used a $30 fan...) and my team, along-side soil engineers, geologists, environmental scientists, all kinds of scientific and professional personnel, etc. design, implement and continually retest and evaluate the effectiveness of these systems every quarter of the year to ensure their improving/maintaining proper indoor air quality. In other words, I have to prove my results ... and not just once, but every 3 months for the life of the system. I find that to be a pretty tough placebo pill to swallow. Further, for you to try and call out the radon profession without a heightened knowledge of it is similar to me saying “geologists are stupid they just stare at rocks all day-good for you to find someone to pay you to do that.” It’s childish and silly. If you want to learn more about what we do look us up and shoot me a call or email. I would be happy to explain in more detail, in a more constructive forum. This video was designed more to help homeowners understand what’s going on and help newer mitigators see / understand some of our processes.
@@brianthompson2002 My friend this will be the last reply considering how emotional you get when it comes to facts and the truth. You may work with geologists every day and as far as I am concerned they probably stick with what they know staring at the rocks all day and like most of them are a part of the scientific community and will never join you or assist you building a pipe coming from the ground unless are into different kind of rocks. If that device is commissioned for evaluation is a different thing but I know, in 2009 someone tried to get a patent on it and rejected for lack of proving its claim, no technical evaluation etc. Now you talk about water infiltration and what or how do you know the presence of radon unless you have a spectrophotometer and a lab to identify the presence of all particles and maybe if you are lucky may find few particles of radium which I GUESS YOU ALREADY KNOW that radon can not exist without radium. Man look I respect your dedication but regardless how much you are trying to make it sound good it does not add up, I'm not saying that you are a lunatic but you remind me of those lunatics which unfortunately are biologists trying to hold on the theory of evolution and not because is true but because it is still a good niche for grants. Please don't come with stuff like this without evidence which like I said your customers may buy it but don't go to a chemist or biologist. There is no scientific evidence supporting EPA recommendations or suggestions and keep in mind that geologists have different specialties just as contractors and biogeology is my thing and since chemistry is the foundation of biology and geology guess what my job is to bring facts and evidence not fabricate them or creating hypothesis or theories. For thousands of years, people have bathed in natural hot springs for the therapeutic properties of the water. Many of these spas have been found to contain radon and yet rather than developing radiation sickness or cancer, many studies show that bathing in the radon-rich groundwater reduces inflammation and pain. Listen, you don't have to take my word for it but are free community classes in chemistry, biology or whatever where you can educate your self and learn how EPA IS MISLEADING PEOPLE. is been good chatting with you. Take care
@@brianthompson2002 how long does some one need to be exposed to living under radon. Before it becomes harmful and eligible for a family to get lung cancer. I put a bid on a home I wont and I did radon test the result came back reading 3.7 It's a 2014 home it has a unfinished basement and I was looking to build it out for the kids but now I'm NERVOUS because of this whole radon threat. I reside in MINNESOTA What's the cost to mitigate out here..?
Not very attractive at all with there pipe going under the soffit and around the gutter!!!! My radon business will go straight up through the soffit and through the roof... Much cleaner look, and the state radon inspector in Iowa where I love likes seeing that better because it makes it more permanent
This install is actually done CORRECT!!!!!!! Awesome guys, this is one I don't have to inspect and tell the owners it needs a complete redo!!!!
Why do you say this
Thanks seeing how its installed help
No problem!
Great video......if I wanted to be doubly sure to reduce radon to very low levels, can I install 2 mitigation systems?
Great question! You could, but typically you shouldn't need to in residential structures. If you do not have a sump basin or interior drain-tile system, and the soil beneath your home is very dense clay or wet sand, you may need to "T-off" of your main system and add extra collection points to increase the field extension under the slab. Hope this helps!
@@lifetimeradonsolutions9498 very helpful, thank you!
Nice installation! Where do you get a lexan sump cover like that?
Now this may be a dumb question but does coring that small hole for the flexible hose reading the preassure on the u-tube cause any radon gas leakage through the cracks in that hole?
It shouldn't. But I siliconed around mine when I installed it to be sure
awesome video, thanks!
Great video. Nice installation.
My guy put a plastic cover on and sealed it with foil tape, not nearly as professional looking. Is there an easy way to test the sump pump without removing the cover?
Frank Steen thanks for the kind words! The best way to test your sump without removing the lid is to have an access port. Anyone installing to current AARST/NRPP standards should be installing a proper access port. The easiest way to add one is to core a 4-inch hole into the top of the cover and buy a 4-inch, threaded plumbing access port. Once you place it in your 4-inch core hole the lip should hold it from falling through and you can caulk it down with a high quality polyurethane to ensure it doesn’t spin on you. I hope this helps!
Frank Steen please check out 7:47 on the video for a visual reference
Lifetime Radon Solutions thanks so much!
Agreed wish I could have had these guys do the work. Nicely done.
I'm curious to the cost of a system like this.
nice work guys
Thanks!
I just bought a home and the seller’s were required to install a radon system. The tube with the liquid gauge is in the garage and the venting pipe lets out through the roof of the garage. But my bedroom is above the garage so all the air the radon venting pipe is letting out is literally on the other side of the wall where my head rests while sleeping. House is vinyl siding and not brick. I mean I can hear the constant humming coming from the pipe from inside the bedroom. Was this done safely?? Is that radon gas seeping into the bedroom through the wall and while I sleep??
Thanks for reaching out! I think the best thing to do would be test your room and see what the levels are. However, in terms of standards as long as the exhaust vent is 10-ft from a window, or two feet above the window, you should be compliant that way. Typically, once exhausted outside, the gas is diluted rather quickly so I believe you should be OK. The tough part is that every home is different and the only sure way to know is to test. My recommendation would be to test the room of concern :) hope this helps!
What equipment are you using for core drilling?
A before-and-after test would be nice.
lpz the customer usually calls us because they had a test that indicated high levels. On some occasions we do the initial test too, but whatever the case we always do a retest to show that the results are below the EPA standard of 4.0 pCi/l - if for whatever reason they are not we guarantee the results so we will continue to work on the house until the levels drop.
@@brianthompson2002 thank you for the quick response didn't expect that. I was just curious on how much it dropped it ..in that case. My radon came back at 3.18.pcl . Garland Tx.
lpz My pleasure! This house started around 7 pCi/l and we got it down to 0.3 pCi/l. I would say that’s a typical drop when there is drain-tile present. It can be a lot tougher down south or even up here in Wisconsin with slab-on-grade homes or homes with crawl spaces (although I am not aware of your situation). I hope that helps!!
What if my slab has a gap around the perimeter because of when they put in my perimeter drain?
Good question! Depending on the system, you need to seal the top of that perimeter drainage system. Is it’s a typical “weeping wall system” that is, a system where small holes are drilled at the bottom of the block to allow water to weep into the newly installed drain-tile, you will have to seal the top of that baseboard trim (typically looks like a black, waffle board pattern) around the entire perimeter of where it was installed. If it’s pulled away from the wall, you should use backer rod so the caulk does not fall behind and clog the holes. This will ensure that even when sealed, the system will work as designed. If it’s tight to the wall, simple masonry (polyurethane) caulk across the top should suffice. If you have a different system where a large perimeter gap is just simply created in the concrete (almost like a large floor to wall French drain system) you may not be able to seal that. You may instead have to drop your pipe in the middle of the home, as far away from the perimeter at all points as possible, and attempt to create a negative pressure with a dug out collection point (5-10 gallons minimum of the sub-slab material) greater than that of the natural pressure differential between the home and the soil. This will help attempt to create a vacuum under the slab with less potential for the perimeter gap to steal air from the structure (ultimately breaking the vacuum). Hope this helps! Good luck to you!
@@brianthompson1039 but I can’t get to it in 90% of the basement. It’s finished with a wall in front on it
@@georgelichak3972 You can try and do it without sealing but it may not work. Best advice would be to install it and seal what you can and then retest. If the levels don't go down on the retest, you will have to cut the drywall away at the bottom to seal all the way around. You could also try the other methodology I mentioned of dropping it out in the middle/away from the perimeter drainage.
@@lifetimeradonsolutions9498 one more question. What is the reason for not being able to put a 180 degree bend in the exhaust pipe over the roof line to keep water out?
@@georgelichak3972 Thanks for asking. It’s against standards of practice because it restricts airflow so much and redirects the affected air toward conditioned areas of living. Ultimately the airflow restriction leads to a less effective system but also potential freeze ups in the winter as the air tumbles at the top and is more likely to condensate and freeze causing ice dams and premature fan burnouts. Lastly, it is unnecessary to cover it or put elbows at the top because even if you look as passive plumbing vents (ones that don’t have a fan pushing away water) you can see they are wide open as well. Radon systems remove a ton of moisture (anywhere from 2-4 tons annually according to the EPAs study on sub-slab depressurization systems as moisture control systems) and so the moisture or water is totally fine going through the system and ultimately back into the drain/tile, sump or sub-slab material. Hope this helps!
How would you get back drafting
Great video, thanks. I have a question. Why is the PVC pipe left straight up above the roof and not with a hood or like a candy cane. Doesn't that allow rain water into the system and then make more work for the sump pump?
Hey! Thanks for reaching out. Typically there is enough air moving through the pipe that minimal rain gets into the sump (the air pressure exiting precludes much from getting in). By depressurization the sump and ultimately the drain-tile you can ensure that you are effectively pulling air around the entire footprint of the foundation. That is why drain-tile/sump depressurization is such a common and effective means of mitigation.
@@brianthompson1039 Thanks for the information, you have a great day.
Very informative, thank you!!! Great intro animation btw!!!
Thank you!
You can tell he makes good money, my man is well fed!
Thanks for the video!
Do you have any videos or suggestions on the sump cover itself?? How to drill the holes and/or sealing around the pipe? Also what is the best way/tools for coring through the house and/or if I was to go into the slab vs my sump crock?
TIA
Thanks for the reply! Unfortunately at this time I do not BUT we use quarter inch Polycarbinate sheeting. Simply trace the diameter of your sump and use a jigsaw to cut it to size. In terms or coring through the Polycarbinate-I usually use a 100 tooth hole saw bit (either 3.5inch or 3 5/8 if I want a little more wiggle room. From there, you can use rubber grommets to seal or just silicone caulk. Lastly, we use a carbide tip core bit on a Bosch rotary hammer drill to drill through the concrete floor and tie into the drain-tile. This should work too if you have to core through block, stone or brick. If you are going through siding and wood you will want something a bit different. We usually use a right angle drill with spyder carbide hole saw bits. If you have a poured foundation and you have to go through that, then you may need something meaner...I would recommend a diamond wet-core rig...this will help cut through the rebar. I hope this helps!
Try this lid, way better for pump replacement accessibility. Also I believe it's a much cleaner look www.jackelinc.com/smr16101-cv.html
How would this work if my home has an existing sump pump (Illinois) and the pump sits down inside there like you were saying? Does this make the install easier? I honestly wasnt even aware there was any other type of sump pump. Also is an electrician required? Im a union electrician so i could do my own power setup if necessary. And lastly, wear an n95 mask when drilling through brick or concrete. Silica dust is dangerous
My customer want me to install a pvc 90 on the top because there fan went and there concerned about rain water getting in. Is that ok
what if you need to service your sump pump? They don't last forever.... I've had to replace mine about ever 5 years. Also did you put a cap on the top of that pipe or is it open to the elements where rain can just get in.
Hey! If you need to get into the sump to change the pump we typically put a crosscut through where the sump line ejects. This makes it easy to simply peel off the silicone seal and pop the lid off in less than a few minutes. In terms of leaving the top open, in northern states like here in Wisconsin it is important to leave the top open. This is because any cap will restrict airflow substantially, causing the air to tumble at the top. When you are pulling relatively warm air (40-50 degree F) from beneath the slab in the winter and the air on the outside of the home is super cold (below 0 F), it will condensate and cause ice dam/freezing issues that will prematurely burnout the fan motor. If you are in a more temperate climate, you can use a cap but it isn't overly necessary as the fans are designed to pass moisture through the system and that moisture will ultimately drain back into the sump.
So this is working as a sump pump and a radon system, correct. ? What if I don’t need the sun pump set up? What can I do just for the radon after the house is already built. (New house )
What if we already have piping to the outside for water from the sump basket?
Nice install
Matt Robin thanks for the kind words! It’s hard to remember but I think when we filmed the basement portion of the install the electrician wasn’t fully finished with the fan hookup. However, explaining the manometer is definitely a good thing to cover on the next video!! Thanks again for your input!
First can the homeowner install a radon system if they get flagged for radon, and why not put the fan inside the house just over the sump pump?
Good question! It depends on your state code and whether or not the contingency requirement specifies if the homeowner can put it in or if a “qualified/certified/NRPP” professional must put it in. Here in WI you could put it in as a homeowner as there is no state adopted regulation concerning radon. Moreover, the fan can only be placed in one of three places according to the national standards of practice - that is, either the outside of the home, the garage (if there is no living space above the garage) or an attic. The thought process is that the positive pressure side of the fan/pipping (exhaust) should never be within an occupied or potentially occupiable living space should it ever leak. Hope this helps!
R u guys from Michigan
Nope! We are from Wisconsin but have done work in Michigan
How does CO2 come from the sump pit? What is the source? If it did, every home in North America would have a problem.
Mark s it is actually not CO2. It is Radon gas. Radon is a natural, soil gas derived from uranium product in rock and soil.
@@lifetimeradonsolutions9498 yes makes more sense....just a bit of a difference
Mark s yes it’s definitely a difference. I think I know the part of the video that you are referring to now, though. What I was explaining is that if the sump is not properly sealed when you are pulling air from the pit you can actually pull air from inside of the basement. This can be problematic when appliances are near by (depending on the efficiency) as the fans negative pressure can backdraft CO2 from those appliances.
Lifetime Radon Solutions, following up on Mark s’ question, how about interior air being drawn from cracks/joints between the slab and the foundation wall? I have a basement that is partially finished, so I cannot seal all of these cracks as they are inaccessible in the finished areas. Could back drafting still be an issue for me?
Mark s - I think you're referring to what Brian was discussing at around the 1:50 mark - backdrafting and CO (carbon monoxide). I think backdrafting refers to natural gas furnaces (and maybe oil and/or fireplaces) that produce carbon monoxide as well as other noxious gases when they produce heat. If your basement has a constant vacuum but it is sucking air from the basement and not the floor, the exhaust gases that should be leaving could be pulled back in to the home (backdrafted) where they can make you sick. I suppose that gas water heaters could be a problem as well, but generally don't use as much gas and thus don't produce as many noxious fumes, and if you have an electric furnace, you probably have an electric water heater and all of this isn't a concern.
I say this because I heard Brian say carbon "di"oxide the first time as well :-) CO2 also isn't good for you, but not as big of a concern as CO in the short term or radon in the long term. You need a little CO2 and Nitrogen mixed with the O2. Also you'll KNOW if you have CO2 poisoning. CO poisoning just makes you feel a little icky and sleepy, then you go to sleep and it kicks in and you die :-(
Overall, nice job on the video, Brian and TJ. My only critique would be to "get on to it". Leave out the intro, outro, and that guitar tune we've all heard a zillion times and you'll look more professional.
I’m confused why you installed a sump pump when there is no water in the pit you just created? A pump needs water to keep it from burning out.
Bro the pump only runs when the float activates it, aka the basin is filled with water. In the summer when I get a few days without rain my pump is bone dry down there, but it's off
Is this method legal in Minnesota?
Yes! Sub-slab depressurization is considered the most effective means of mitigation because it takes care of the issue at the source (beneath the slab) and done in virtually every state in the US!
@@lifetimeradonsolutions9498 thanks
Hey guys, great vid! Question though, if I want to use 4" pipe for the system, but the fancy lid I purchased has a nice threaded outlet for 3" pipe, if I use the 3" coupling and step up immediately with an adapter to 4", does that defeat the purpose of the 4" pipe? Will the fan still demand the same airflow through the system, it'll just increase velocity a bit at the lid when it momentarily passes through 3 inches? Thanks!
Hey! Sorry - I must have missed this comment. You can do that but it will choke your suction point to some degree. Depending on the application, in this scenario, it may make sense to run 3" pipe below the fan and 4" pipe above the fan. This is a common practice in the industry. Hope this helps!
@@lifetimeradonsolutions9498 thanks I went ahead with the install back then and elected to just go 4" all the way and cut and fabricate my own new opening on the lid. Glad I did it, super quiet and excellent flow rate according to my manometer calculations with the RP145
Had a unit installed before we moved in to our house. They installed it near the pump and everytime it rains heavily the radon fan pulls water up the radon pipe and water sprays everywhere. Any ideas because the guys that installed it said that they have no clue. Called them twice and I just gave up drilled a whole in stuck a tap in it and open it up ever time it rains. Any ideas?
Hey Peter! Thanks for commenting! Did they install into the drain-tile next to the sump pit or into the sump pit itself? If into the sump lid (that is the sump crock/pit) itself it might be that the pipe is driven too deep into the sump basin. It is really only necessary that it sits below the cover about an inch or two. Also, it could be that you need to adjust the height of your sump pump float...so that the water doesn’t get so high in the crock that it is pulled into the pipe.
If the pipe is tied into the drain tile this may be a bit more complicated of a fix. What I have done in the past is made sure the pipe is simply hovering over the drain tile rather than touching it. Further, I have made sure that part or half of the pipe is over the drain tile while the other half is over the gravel. That will relieve some of the pressure on the drain tile and even it out over the gravel (which is still porous and will not compromise the field extension under the slab in most situations). This should allow the system to still be effective while not creating an aggressive enough suction that pulls the water through your pipe. I hope this helps!!!
How does the exterior PVC hold up to UV radiation?
Thanks for asking! They are treated as most standard PVC is. Therefore, there can be some yellowing over time but typically the treatments keep them pretty white. What I have seen is some of the lower quality fans tend to yellow very quickly. The fans we use stay white no matter what. Also, many of our customers paint the system to match the color of their home. They are allowed to paint the system and the fan, just not the top piece on the fan that covers the electrical box as this piece has the serial number for the warranty information. I hope that helps!
@@brianthompson2002 Thanks!
The best pipe for out door use to prevent yellowing and damage is schedule 40 solid core pipe! That pipe according to national radon code should be used throughout the whole system
Corey Poss you got it!
The straw explanation
But what about the cracks?
Wouldn’t that lessen the vacuum like you said?
Yes - major cracks can definitely cause issues. In this particular home, after system activation, we tested the cracks with a “smoke pen” to see if the negative pressure was pulling air through the cracks. The slab at this property was in pretty good shape - if I remember correctly we had to seal some cracks/gaps but because it was relatively new construction, there was a vapor barrier under the slab that also ensured a tighter vacuum. I hope that helps!
How much does this cost?$$$$
Depends on the home and the state you live in. Generally in Wisconsin (where this install took place in) the price ranges from $800-$1500
Hey is this the youbetcha guy?
Youbetcha!
Seems like a really bad idea to put it in the sump pump well.
Oh... So you're telling me that "sump pit" in my basement was supposed to have a water pump in it pumping to outside all these years?! I know that sounds common sense, but I never knew. I thought it was just to see if there was flooding. How could my builder not put a pump?!? Lol jesus
why NO condensation bypass????????????
tad travis that’s a great question! Typically (and ironically) the diameter of the condensation bypass is small and when pulling 40-50 degree (F) air from beneath the slab, the much cooler outdoor air (during Wisconsin winter months) condenses at the bypass and we typically see that they become frozen and useless. We use really good fans (Festa Radon Technologies) that are designed to take water through them and typically we do not have a problem when they are properly installed. In short, you definitely could install a condensation bypass (there is certainly nothing wrong with them) but in 22-years experience we have found them to be less than useful when needed most. Therefore, to keep costs competitive for our customers, keep things simple, and overall personal preference we simply do it install them very often on residential, exterior installs.
Because all Radon fans are made to accept the water draining back through the fan and into the suction pit. We have done a couple thousand systems in North West Iowa and never had an issue with moisture running back through the fans, or needing a useless varmet cover
Lol what happens when u need to change the sump pump 🤣
Hey! Thanks for the comment! It’s actually quite easy-it’s important to use clear silicone caulk for both aesthetics but also it is much easier to unseal. You simply score the sealed portion with a knife/razor and pop the lid off. You disconnect the radon pipe at the black rubber coupling so you don’t need to cut it and the sump lid is cross cut so you don’t need to cut/disconnect that pipe in the event of an emergency. I hope this helps!!
I d replace my amp pump, soles I reinstall the clear caulking. What type? Latex, silicone, thanks
Sorry, meant to say sump pump
@@lifetimeradonsolutions9498 I can't follow the last two sentences in your explanation of how are you can easily service the sump pump when needed. It would be great if you could provide a labeled picture explaining what you mean or a short video doing the same.
From a geologist point of view, there is no system today that eliminates the presence of radon unless you remove all the soil, bedrock or the grade on which the foundation and the house sets. In fact, before the house is built in the geological test should include such a radon test. However, this is more like a placebo pill which makes a very good niche to make a lot of money and good for you if homeowners are not educating themselves and learn that a $30 fan/venting outside can take care of pretty much any kind of soil emanations, fumes, odors. It is more dangerous the microwave radiations than the overrated and blown out of proportions radon gas coming from the decay products of uranium in the ground beneath homes, streets or buildings which also can seep in through cracks, sumps, joints, floor drains or other tiny openings in foundations or crawl spaces. Your installation only prevents the infiltration at the pump but not the total elimination of radon presence.
Thanks for your time and comment! I just want to state that no claim was made that radon was completely removed from the structure but rather it was stated that it was mitigated. According to the Oxford Dictionary, mitigate means “to make less severe, serious, or painful.” -that is what radon mitigation does.
There are a lot of misconceptions about radon...but it is natural and it is everywhere around us. It is impossible to make it go away completely. In fact, even if you test fresh, outside air you generally read somewhere between 0.3-0.7 pCi/l. What a radon system or a sub-slab depressurization system does is redirect existing radon from beneath the structure so less enters into the home through pressure differentials. For example, indoor radon levels tend to be higher in the winter. Many think this is because the home is sealed in the winter, however, many homes are sealed in the summer too (when the a/c is running). The true issue in the winter is what is known as stack effect-the same concept that pulls smoke up through your chimney. When homeowners heat their homes in the winter, the heat rises and eventually leaves the structure. This loss of air creates a negative pressure that can draw soil gasses, like radon, into the structure. Since homes are sealed tighter than ever before, these levels can grow to levels that substantially increase ones risk of lung cancer over prolonged, consistent exposure.
The sub-slab systems we custom design and build for homeowners just simply use a series of piping and fan/fans to create a negative pressure under the slab that is greater than that of the pull from the structure (the vast majority of the time) and in turn, since radon gas finds the path of least resistance, it is pulled up through the piping and vent system (by the suction of fan) and directed (by the blowing of fan) outside rather than into the sealed, confined space of the structure. The EPA warns that levels above 4.0 pCi/l can dramatically increase ones risk of lung cancer. If we can take homes that test above 4.0 pCi/l and reduce them to levels similar to outdoor air quality, surely there is an advantage-namely a decreased chance of lung cancer. I have personally mitigated homes with my team well over 100 and 150 pCi/l... we get their levels consistently down below 4.0 pCi/l and most of the time well below 2.0 or 1.0 pCi/l. Homes where real people and pets have passed away from lung cancer.
@@brianthompson2002 EPA does not represent the scientific community or have the legal authority to enforce any kind of claim without documented evidence. The only thing they can do is to suggest, advise or warn the public regarding eventual risks related to a certain situation or circumstances and to talk about and know radon you have to be a chemist, biologist, physicist or geologist which EPA, plumbers or other people copying each other like parrots are not. However, you cannot control the levels of constant, continuous and present necessary particles of anything unless you are modifying an entire echo system or the environment in which case we have to modify the entire planet since it is in the air we breathe. That applies to anything in nature including you, can you modify or change the amount of hydrogen and cyanide in your body or the oxygen intake, water levels? No, because you dye. Brian we all have to make a living but insinuating, justifying or enforcing an assumption does not represent the truth or change the facts and if you want or believe EPA are you willing to bet $1000 on your claim that you are able to control the level and reduce the presence of radon on the entire house permanently with that silly installation?
milos Karoly In terms of a geologist point of view, I am truly surprised to hear your position. I work with geologists on a daily basis building these same kind of systems to not only reduce radon levels in structures but also VOC’s from soil and ground water pollution that are brought into the structure through the same pressure concepts. In most of these commercial VOC/vapor intrusion applications we use custom fans that generally have 5-figure price tags (never have I or any professional in this industry used a $30 fan...) and my team, along-side soil engineers, geologists, environmental scientists, all kinds of scientific and professional personnel, etc. design, implement and continually retest and evaluate the effectiveness of these systems every quarter of the year to ensure their improving/maintaining proper indoor air quality. In other words, I have to prove my results ... and not just once, but every 3 months for the life of the system. I find that to be a pretty tough placebo pill to swallow. Further, for you to try and call out the radon profession without a heightened knowledge of it is similar to me saying “geologists are stupid they just stare at rocks all day-good for you to find someone to pay you to do that.” It’s childish and silly. If you want to learn more about what we do look us up and shoot me a call or email. I would be happy to explain in more detail, in a more constructive forum. This video was designed more to help homeowners understand what’s going on and help newer mitigators see / understand some of our processes.
@@brianthompson2002 My friend this will be the last reply considering how emotional you get when it comes to facts and the truth. You may work with geologists every day and as far as I am concerned they probably stick with what they know staring at the rocks all day and like most of them are a part of the scientific community and will never join you or assist you building a pipe coming from the ground unless are into different kind of rocks. If that device is commissioned for evaluation is a different thing but I know, in 2009 someone tried to get a patent on it and rejected for lack of proving its claim, no technical evaluation etc. Now you talk about water infiltration and what or how do you know the presence of radon unless you have a spectrophotometer and a lab to identify the presence of all particles and maybe if you are lucky may find few particles of radium which I GUESS YOU ALREADY KNOW that radon can not exist without radium. Man look I respect your dedication but regardless how much you are trying to make it sound good it does not add up, I'm not saying that you are a lunatic but you remind me of those lunatics which unfortunately are biologists trying to hold on the theory of evolution and not because is true but because it is still a good niche for grants. Please don't come with stuff like this without evidence which like I said your customers may buy it but don't go to a chemist or biologist. There is no scientific evidence supporting EPA recommendations or suggestions and keep in mind that geologists have different specialties just as contractors and biogeology is my thing and since chemistry is the foundation of biology and geology guess what my job is to bring facts and evidence not fabricate them or creating hypothesis or theories. For thousands of years, people have bathed in natural hot springs for the therapeutic properties of the water. Many of these spas have been found to contain radon and yet rather than developing radiation sickness or cancer, many studies show that bathing in the radon-rich groundwater reduces inflammation and pain. Listen, you don't have to take my word for it but are free community classes in chemistry, biology or whatever where you can educate your self and learn how EPA IS MISLEADING PEOPLE. is been good chatting with you. Take care
@@brianthompson2002 how long does some one need to be exposed to living under radon. Before it becomes harmful and eligible for a family to get lung cancer. I put a bid on a home I wont and I did radon test the result came back reading 3.7
It's a 2014 home it has a unfinished basement and I was looking to build it out for the kids but now I'm NERVOUS because of this whole radon threat.
I reside in MINNESOTA
What's the cost to mitigate out here..?
ua-cam.com/video/TFi5bLrbBJ4/v-deo.html una radiografia con la pechblenda di marie curie
Looks terrible.
not very attractive is it
Lung cancer looks worse
Not very attractive at all with there pipe going under the soffit and around the gutter!!!! My radon business will go straight up through the soffit and through the roof... Much cleaner look, and the state radon inspector in Iowa where I love likes seeing that better because it makes it more permanent