Anatomy of a (Properly-Installed) Radon System
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- Опубліковано 4 чер 2015
- David Daniels of Radon Specialists of Wisconsin describes piece-by-piece what makes up a well-installed radon mitigation system. He details both what an inside system (through the roof) and outside system (vented out a side wall) should have. In this video you'll learn what to look for, what questions to ask a radon company and ways other companies cut corners and the dangers it can cause.
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Great presentation! You provided detailed electrical information for the exterior install, but nothing other than a service light for an attic install. Kudos for being the only install presentation that provided information regarding firewall penetration info.
This is the best video I've seen on what a proper installation should look like. I recently had a system put in (in the Northwoods of WI too), the contractor cut corners, didn't pipe around the soffit, and plugged the fan in an outlet. I knew it was wrong, just didn't know how it was wrong. I made him come back to fix it. --we'll see if he does it properly, but I feel empowered to make him come back *again* if he doesn't do it right. Thanks again for this video.
This is beautifully crafted video. The narration was outstanding the visual-aid truly helps a homeowner who is trying to learn about radon for the first time.
I just took class to be a NJ Radon tech and this video was very helpful! Thx
Great video, most thorough I've seen. I especially liked the reference to the firestop for the holes going through the exterior of the house. My question however is regarding placing reducers on the piping (which I have seen on numerous videos) if the fan I'm using comes with an entrance and exit duct of 4 inches can I use a 3 inch pipe for the runs involved and reduce it to go through the slab and up the exit vent. I know it will effect the draw of the fan but don't know how much or if will damage the fan in some way. I'm working with a very small square footage (only 550) but have unknown soil beneath the slab and will not need a huge draw.
Thank you. We appreciate it.
Great video, and as displayed, that would be a quality install. I'm a home inspector and have seen some very shoddy work on these.
Thank you. As the new national president I hope to change that.
Thank you! We're buying our first house and just got the results of the radon test showing high. Neither of us knew anything about radon until today. This video was extremely helpful in understanding the purpose and options of a system. I'm just sorry we're in Ohio instead of Wisconsin!
Thank you, glad it helped. Hopefully you can now ask the right questions when hiring a company.
Excellent description. Thank you.
Great presentation, nice tempo, and great mockup!
If no gravel, that's when it might be necessary to install a larger vacuum fan and possibly more than one suction point so enough air can be pulled from under the slab.
Great Presentation. Thank you. Very educational!
Thank you. Hope it helped.
Yes, on interior routes you would only see the pipe through the roof. We have installed plenty of systems through closets. Most are routed through the garage and roof. And, then the rest are routed to the outside. It all depends on what obstacles are in our way and if there is an attached garage. Make sure you see a pipe through the roof on your system.
That was a very clear presentation, thank you. So having the vent placed near the edge of the slab will vent as well (or close) as having it near the middle?
If there is gravel under the slab I would always prefer coring through the slab. Gives you more location options. If there is sand or clay then through the slab next to the pit. Try to get on top of the drain tile. By looking in the pit you can see where the tile is coming in from the exterior footing. Last option is to use the sump pit. There has to be a submersible pump in the pit with a check valve. Lid has to be made air tight, typically with caulk. Pre cut the vent pipe and reconnect with a rubber coupler. Makes it easier to get into the pit in an emergency.
Very helpful vid. Thanks.
really great video
I am getting into radon in Florida
thanks
I always love how people give a thumbs down without willing to say why and debating their point or reasoning. If you don't agree, give a reason.
They don't have a gripe, there are just sad people who get off on downvoting random videos. When you see downvotes, just feel happy that you've got a good life, and aren't like them. Thanks for the video, I'm putting in a radon system in my house this weekend.
Good luck on your system
There is no real reason why anyone would down vote, so just know they are idiots :D
Awesome video! About to tackle this project myself but having a difficult time deciding on 3" vs 4" ducting. I have an 1100sq ft basement slab with corrugated drain tile underneath and on the edges all leading to sump pit that I will be sealing and extracting from. sub slab is a mix of limestone and just earth. Using a RadonAway RP145c and entire run will be only 15' mostly vertical. Seems like in Canada 4" is typical but I see many US installations with 3". My main concerns are 1)airflow and 2)noise. What are your thoughts?
Super informative...thank you
Great video! What if foundation isn’t a slab, but just a concrete lip with a dirt crawlspace?
Nice video. I'm in Ohio and have a couple of questions. Do you think a condensation bypass is necessary? They look reasonably simple to DIY but I don't see them on most installs. Second, our sump pit has a natural drain to the surface to handle any overflow from the pump. Would we need to do something to isolate the pit or drain from the rest of the slab so that we aren't just pulling outside air through the fan (which I plan to core drill)?
Thanks for all the information.
Glad to help
Do you recommend a rain cap and/or a condensation drainage system for outdoor installations? Thank you!
Very informative video I do have a few questions though... What is the diameter of the PVC pipe that is utilized when dealing with radon? Also, are there different fans for various platforms or would you use the same fan in a slab foundation as you would in a crawl space or other configuration? Thank you in advance.
Great display!
Should the radon system be drilled into parameter tile (break open the top of the tile)? Or should it have its own hole and chamber? I have a floor drain in the basement I wouldn't want to become unusuable.
You mentioned the fan has be to in an unlivable space. Could it be installed in a utility room where the current passive system comes out of the slab?
Nice video! I live in Ohio or I would call you myself. Do you have an opinion on using the existing sump pump or would you rather use its own drilled hole?
David, since the pipe is straight up in the air at the roof, would it be bad during a rain storm? Can't you use a 45 degree to curve the pipe to avoid rain or snow from going down the radon pipe?
How do you deal with condensation or ice domes that might form on the outside vent?
glad it helped
Any need to put an elbow on the top to keep water out from rain or snow? How hard to install the fire sleeve?
Great video and great mock up. I have a question, in basements built before the 1970s where there is no base rock & literally slab on top of dirt, is there any value in core drilling a pipe down into the dirt? I’m assuming with a 3 1/2 inch Core, one could get their hand down there and remove 12 inches of dirt or so and put in some base rock with the pipe? Do you think that would accomplish anything?
Thank you for the comments. You would actually want to core about a 6 inch hole to be able to get your arm in there. You would want to dig a deep and wide pit. About 4-5 five gallon pails worth. Then use a reducer coupler to go down to a 3 inch sched. 40 PVC pipe. Then a strong vacuum fan like a RadonAway GP501. Put suction point near a plumbing drain stack also if you can. Good to be by footing also, but not on top of it. You may need more than one suction point if the first one does not do the job. Also check for air leaks and caulk where needed with Polyurethane caulk.
what glue should be used to connect the PVC pipes and pieces for radon?
One last question... My drain tile is under the basement slab just next to the footing. There are also connections to it, that are coming from the basement window wells. Would there be better under slab suction if these open ends of the drain tile pipe are closed? Or is there better air flow with them left open? I have my window wells covered so they arent needed to drain any water.
Thanks for any advice.
They should be capped if they are not needed. Otherwise the system will just suck air from the outside instead of under the slab. Air will take the path of least resistance.
Why do I see so many outside systems in my neighborhood that do not have a condensation bypass hooked to them? I see your outside display doesnt have one either. Are they necessary in the north-east?
I look at the manometer from time to time, not on any schedule. Today is see the level is higher on the side with the tube. It's usually at +1/-1, now it's reversed. Maybe it's that way more often, but I haven't noticed. Is there any reason other than a fault in the system that this should happen?
Great video ! Wow! Little question: why can’t you have the fans in the basement and go outside through a rim joists (can go up after that). Why the fan should be in the attic or outside ? I will hire someone here in Canada and the code is less stringent (at the moment) but I want something well installed for a long time.
Canada does have other standards. I agree with them but that is the case for now.
what is meant by capping test vials after installation of a radon mitigation system?
Enjoyed your video! I do however have a question. My home has elevated radon levels so i will need to install a system. The home is a 1800sq ft, 50's ranch with four additions. So one original basement ~700sq ft, two additional ~200 and ~400, a slab ~300 and a crawl space of ~200. Would you recommend installing 2" pipes to each addition, coring a hole in the middle"ish" area of each slab and connecting to a 4" pipe that will go to a radon fan in attic? Thank you!
What levels did you test at, and where were they taken (what level/room)? Where is your home located? When were these additions constructed? This home may need more than one system. The goal is to treat everything with one system, with potential 2nd and 3rd suction point. Your home sounds more complicated than that. I would like to see floor plan, pics or visit it if it is in my area.
Thank you for the quick response David! I'm located in Franklin so just south of Milwaukee. The only addition there is a record of was built in 1970's which is the larger ~400sq ft with basement. I never had any official test done I had just done a quick test provided by the city that i believe was 7pCi/L (however I'm quite forgetful and it was some time ago) It was taking on the main floor centrally in the middle of the home. I did not do the long term test as i figure chances are I'm installing anyways and figure id use the test money toward the cost of fan and piping. However the more I've read the more complicated it has become as it is not just a simple sump install (at least I think). Yes I agree the home is VERY complicated and full of things that make you scratch your head and think now why in the world did they do it this way haha. I could take some measurements and draw a rough floor plan if you'd be willing to take a peek. Thank you
Give us a call. Brandon, my manager can come take a look. No cost or obligation. Sump pit may be the way to go on this but should look first. 844-569-7236.
Great, i will do that! Thank you so much! Tyler
I have no garage and my attic is a livable space. Can I run the pipe up through closet spaces in the house and then through the roof with with fan installed outside above the roof? I'm trying to avoid the look of it installed on the exterior wall.
Have you much knowledge regarding radon and well water? My home has radon 4.3 according to home inspector but the hourly report shows as high as 9 and somehow averages to 4.3. I'm worried my well water has a problem too
Jitom7 the likelyhood of radon in your water is very slim. You radon levels can spike like that for a number of reasons. This can be vent fans running in the house, certain winds can cause spikes among others. While you might have a spike of 9 pCi/l, there are probably more data points during the test that were lower than 4.3 that brought your average down. The radon level is not the highest reading during the test. It is the average of the data points collected during the time frame.
If there is a french drain in the basement, do you usually install the radon suction piping in the sump? Or is a separate hole required?
It all depends on what is under the slab and how the drain is set up. If there is gravel we core through the slab, which gives us more options. If wet sand or clay then we might use the sump pit to pull directly from the drain tile. I personally believe that sub slab systems when there is gravel is the best way to go.
Great video! How long can this outside system last before we have to replace the fan or the entire system? Thanks!
System should last forever if installed properly. Fans normally last 7-10 years.
Radon Specialists of WI Thanks for the quick reply! That’s good to know 😄
HRV's are effective when levels are lower. In the 4 to 6 range. But not very effective when above 6. It would take too many air exchanges per hour than what an HRV could handle. Above more than twice the cost of a Radon system, at least in our area you have to change out filters. And the cost of running it is far greater than a Radon fan. So, they can be effective if there is no good way to route a Radon system and levels are fairly low. But the Radon system will win out every time when levels are above 6 and it comes to costs and maintenance.
Noticed that the systems are open on the roof side. How does water collection/draining work in this case? Does that mean this will back up to the crawlspace/slab?
The best way to vent is straight up and open on top. This helps with air flow. Not much moisture can get in the pipe as the air coming out of it pushes it away. Whatever does make it into the pipe is a small amount. In 20 years of doing this I have never seen a large amount of water build up at the suction point. Some water will make its way down. It just gets absorbed into the soil. What can be an issue is if the piping is not pitched properly. That's when water will accumulate in the pipe and cause resistance and gurgling.
I have packed clay under my slab, how much dirt will I need to remove from the hole for it to work properly?
The bigger the better with clay. Go as deep and as wide as you can. It is hard work, but will help with airflow. Sometimes with clay another suction point is needed to grab enough air. A nice trick is to put suction point near a plumbing drain stack. That can help with communication also under the slab.
I bought a house and can’t find the fan. They wouldn’t install it within the walls, would they?
Is it possible to install the pump outside of the house? Or re-route the u tube manometer to be outside?
The radon fan can be installed outside. It just can't be inside the envelope of the house or underneath livable space. The U tube should really be in the basement. it's not be outside of the home because rain will get in it and keep it from functioning properly. If you have cold weather and it's in the garage the oil can gel up and keep it from functioning properly. There are audible alarms on the market that can be installed in addition to or instead of. That way if the fan stops working you can still know that and take appropriate actions.
If I have a partial basement and the rest of the house is on grade do you still put the system in the floor of the basement?
If you need a system you almost always have a suction point in the basement. The lower the hole the more vacuum affect you will have. Another suction point connected to the same system may need to be installed through the foundation wall, but under the slab on grade.
How does this pull moisture out of our house?
Wow, great vid. So when you go through the basement slab it can go anywhere because of the assumed gravel and drainage pipes underneath? Is there an ideal place? Based on saquare footage, how powerful does that fan need to be. (i.e.: 2000 sq ft basement, 6K+ home.)
Thank you for the comments. It would be best to place the suction point near an outside wall/footing. Then you can pull from gravel and drain tile. But could actually work anywhere.
2000 sq. ft. basement I would recommend a RadonAway RP145.
@@RadonSpecialistsofWINeenah Wow that was such a fast response, thank you! One more, if you have the time. Is there anything wrong or additional benefit with over sizing the fan... like a RP265 with the 6 inch inlet? I really appreciate your response. It's like we have a real life live saver!
Using a larger fan typically does not get you a lower radon level. Radon systems do not act like that. Some companies will try to sell you a larger fan saying that is the case but it is a scam. I've done many experiments with different sized fans and using a higher air volume fans and larger pipe has not lowered radon levels any further than the standard fan we would use in our experiments. The only time you would use a larger fan is if you have a very large footprint say over 5000 square foot slab and larger commercial buildings. If you had tight soils then you would use a higher vacuum fan so you'd have enough power to pull air.
Have you done any systems which perform remediation using UV light? Any info on that?
No. That is not a viable technique. Sorry.
I think it would be benificial to explain what the mechanism is in the introduction. I'm more than half way through the video and I dont know if we are removing radon from the atmosphere, or water.
This system is removing radon from the soil thereby preventing it from coming into the home. A water treatment system would be connected to the home's water supply system.
Sorry for any misunderstandings, but no, the pipe does not go into the overhang "soffit" area. The pipe goes up through the roof, typically the back side, and vents out above it a minimum of 12 inches. You do not want the vent blowing air back into the garage. It would have a high moisture content and radiation level. On an outside system the vent has to be above the gutter also with no fittings on it. I have seen systems where the pipe goes above the roof but then they installed a few elbows on the top blowing the air back down towards the roof and ground. Not good. You also want to make sure the vent is a minimum of 10 ft. above grade or decks and 2 ft. above any openings or 10 ft. from them while maintaining the min. 10 ft. above grade rule.
Looks like an open system. How do you keep the water out?
With the snow and ice, what about freezing and the effects on the fan as these elements reach it?
Good questions. With our climate in NE WI we want to vent straight up and out. These fans are made for what they do. Water can pass through them. Plus you always have moisture being vented out. Putting anything on top of the vent will actually help it to freeze up in the winter. Systems routed through the garage and room almost never have complete freeze overs, whereas outside systems will because more of the system is exposed to the colder air. With the vent being open it is less likely to freeze up. Also, with the fan operating not much rain ever makes it into the pipe as it is being kept at bay with the air volume being blown out of it.
Radon Specialists of WI - you just answered my questions too! Great video.
great, glad it helped.
I'm a installer in Northern Illinois, we install a coupling with an internal collar with a tapped nipple into the fitting that has a insulated tube that allows water to collect and bypass the fan to the fitting below the fan to help keep moisture away from the fan. I also install a painted cover over the fan to match the house color, then from there up i run downspout to match the existing downspout instead of the pvc pipe as shown in this video. It isn't the most pleasant thing to have on your house, but I do whatever I can to make it look the best. It cost me over $100 and a couple hours time, yet I charge the same as my competition, I think this is one of the reasons I can barely keep up with installs.
Wouldn't it make sense to have a cap on the pipe to prevent water from entering and getting into the foundation?
Great video... Does the radon fan have to be installed outside the basement for a exterior install, and why does the fan need to be installed in the attic just before it goes thru the roof for a inside (thru the roof install)?
Yes, the Radon venting standards require the fan to be located in unlivable space. So, it can not be under or in livable space or in the envelope of the home. If exterior then the fan is outside. If it can go up through the garage or a closet then it would be in the attic space. Still having the vent at least 10 ft. from or 2 ft. above any windows and 10 ft. above grade.
Do you know why it needs to be located in unlivable space? I would think it should'nt matter.
Cee Dub
The fan needs to be in unlivable space in case there is ever a leak on the exhaust side. Whatever a home tested at is a small amount compared to what's under the slab. Levels could be 500, 1000 or more. You wouldn't want to be pushing that into your home. Same reason vent has to be a certain height above grade and windows.
my basement slab is sitting on bedrock. how would this work?
Is there a reason you put the fire collar on the outside of the home? Does it not make more sense to install it on the inside so that it blocks the pipe sooner on the inside to prevent air from coming in in the even if a fire? Or is it code to be mounted outside for some reason??
Yes, you want the fire collar on the garage side of an install. The collar is made to prevent a garage fire from spreading into the home by collapsing the pipe and filling the hole with a foam like material. If the fire collar is on the inside the fire has already breached into the home, wooden joists and would be of no use.
+Radon Specialists of WI thanks! So an exterior garage wall that doesn't need it but the wall from garage to home does. Correct?
Wow, almost 100,000 views! Tell your friends. Lets reach it!
Can you tell me how much that system approximatly would cost to purchase and install? I live in Las Vegas and have high levels of radon in my basement. Thank you so much for your informative video and your answer!
Locally it would be about $1100 for an outside install and $1400 to route through the garage and roof. As long as the roof has asphalt shingles. I have done systems where there was clay tile and the roofer charged $600 to do the flashing. If it is a shingle roof, metal or rubber we can handle it. I do not know what someone in Las Vegas would charge to do it.
I like Vegas if you want to fly us out. We have installed systems in other area's of the country because of our expertise.
@@RadonSpecialistsofWINeenah You sir may have a deal. I will keep in touch.
Sounds good
I bought a house with a radon system in it,but i cant find any system monitor and the company who installed it is out of business. I have looked everywhere but the attic. Could it be up there? Are systems required to have the ushaped monitor on them? I would think so. Thanks.
Thank you for the question. You may just have a passive system, no fan in attic. If you put your ear on the pipe in the basement and don't hear any air passing through the pipe it is a passive system. You would have to install the fan in the attic, which probably means an outlet to plug it into also. Then install a U-tube gauge on the pipe in the basement.
A warning device is required on all active systems. If not a U-tube an audible alarm in the basement or attic. Either one is to let the homeowner know the system is functioning properly.
Im in Halifax Canada and my house tested at over 3000. Do we have to worry about freezing?
3000? You might want to re test to verify. Is that in Pico curries or basquels?
I still believe systems should be installed up to US standards but in Canada you can actually put the fan in the basement and vent at ground level to avoid freeze ups. We get just as Cold of winters here in Wisconsin and we do get some freeze ups but it's only for a few days and then they take care of themselves once it warms up a little bit.
Mine is in an interior closet in my house. Is that odd? Theres nothing on the outside of my house like what you're showing.
My house is a single level ranch with no basement or crawl space.
For an exterior system, is it possible/up to code to run the pipe through the soffit and up through the roof?
You mentioned that it has to be run up and around the soffit to the eve. Any insight on why this is required would be great! Also - does using aluminum downspout material affect this decision at all?
It is OK to go up through the soffit and then Flash the roof. We normally don't do that unless the customer signs a waiver. If you ever had an ice build-up on the bottom of the roof/gutter it could actually move up the roof and underneath the flashing and then when it melts could rot out the roof there.
thank you for the explanation!
* in the event of a fire.
Also the display you show in the video I don't see one of those collars on the side that runs pipes along the homes' siding.
Yes, fire code does not require a fire collar on the piping on the outside of the home. I assume if there is a fire on the outside of a home it would normally be large enough where a fire collar would't do much good. If you look at water heater pipes, furnace piping, none of them have fire stop collars or caulking.
Is it better to have the hole in the concrete in the middle of the house/slab or near the footings?
We believe having the suction point near the footing is better especially if you have an interior your drain tile system.
david daniels thanks for your prompt reply!
I installed my radon mitigation system and have reduced my radon levels, however they are still around 2.7, what can I do to get it lower?
What was under the slab, gravel, sand or clay? Did you have a drain tile under the slab? Did you route off the pit, if you have one? If you went through the slab it is very important that you make a very deep and very wide suctin point. And what make and model of fan did you use? If you have gravel or drain tile or went off the pit then you want a high air volume fan. If you have sand or clay and no gravel no drain tile, then you want to use a high vacuum fan. Answering these questions will help me give you a better answer.
Andrew Peck if your basement area has any area that is unfinished, you should caulk the floor/wall joint and caulk any cracks that are visible in the floor.
Can you drill anywhere on the slab or does it need to be in an specific area
Technically anywhere. But the best place to drill is about 6 inch from the foundation wall near the footing. also if you can place it near the 14 in the area of a plumbing drain stack that would be good too.
Thank you very much for your help I appreciate it
Where is your company based out of?
what is the specific fan part called? radon pipe fan?
Just "A Radon Fan". There are different fans made for the application they should be used on. Bath fans for bathrooms. Dryer booster fans to help with long dryer vent runs. This, being a Radon system it is simply called a Radon fan.
To make the fan more accessible... wouldn't it make more sense to house that inside the home. above the area where you breached the concrete slab?
It would be nice if we could do that but that would be against national standards. Let's say a radon test came in at 6. That's what made it through the concrete. What's under the concrete could be a thousand. If there was a leak on the exhaust side of the fan that's what would be pumped into the house twenty-four hours a day. So, that was actually be a dangerous situation. This is why the fan has to be outside of livable space and the vent pipe has to be above the roof and a certain distance away from Windows and openings.
@@RadonSpecialistsofWINeenah ... Thank you very much for the explanation. Totally makes sense.
Please explain why not to go through where the sump pump is.
you can go from there easily, just have your lid made, so it creates tight seal. Working on it right now myself ))
If you are going to be installing an exterior system, buy the cover and mounting box for under $100, prime it with plastic primer, and run downspout to match your house from the fan up. The cover comes with the required adapters and looks way better than white pvc pipe running up the side of your home!!
I agree that aesthetics can be an issue. In our very cold climate using a downspout has added noise and many have frozen up. Some have seemed to be noisier because you are going from a round centrifugal fan then up to a rectangular shaped downspout/pipe. The junction box is fine, but like you said adds $100 or more to the price. When a system cannot be put in a really good hidden location we recommend painting the fan, couplings and pipe to match the home. This will camouflage the system quite well. As always, the best way is if you can route through an attached garage, or through an interior closet and exit the roof.
There is nothing wrong with routing a system off a sump pump pit. But doing that limits on where the system can be routed. And, if you have a pump emergency you'll have to dismantle the Radon system first, wasting valuable time, to get in there. Then reinstall the system after dealing with the pump. If there is clay or sand under the slab and no interior drain tile then the pit may be the way to go. If there is interior drain tile or gravel then there probably would be better options considering aesthetics and function.
I moved into my house and got a radon test done. Long story short they installed a radon mitigation system connecting to my sump pump and sealing it. Since then
I noticed a ton of water pouring into my sump pump pit. My pump would run every 1 to 3 min. Today I got curios if I could raise the float switch to try to balance out the water level or make it so it didn't run so often. The radon installers cut a 3" hole in the lid and silicone
a clear plexiglass piece over it. I removed that cover to watch the float switch. 5 min went by and still it wouldn't pump. Eventually by shear luck I noticed that as that
hole got smaller water started running fast into the pump. I then covered the hole again and the water was gushing in.. then lifted it up and the water stopped. It's
now been 20 min and my pump hasn't ran, Why is the radon system sucking water into my sump pump pit? When I remove this little sight glass the u
shaped device showing suction still shows a negative suction. Is this OK to leave it like this? With the cover off? I don't want my pumps running so often especially if it's not needed.
I have since resealed the put cover till I know more. Any advice would help.
My system is a year-old and I think it was installed incorrectly. I dont't know when it stopped working. I think water got into my foundation after a heavy rain and got sucked into the fan.
Check the gauge to see if the fan is pulling air. Make sure water is not mixed with oil in the gauge. Why do you think the system is installed improperly?
The fan needs to be mounted vertically outside the home or in an attic space. The electric disconnect/switch/cord needs to be by the fan. The vent needs to be 1 ft. above the roof, 2 ft. above any openings and a minimum of 10 ft. above the ground. You could email me some pics so I can look at it at radonspecialistofwi.com
I don't like bypass systems because they easily freeze up in the winter and create issues. For warmer climate they are fine. If you are moving air though drain tile you will want to do something so the system doesn't pull air from the outside.
I’d ask why not have fan indoors? Is it due to noise reduction?
The reason why fans could not be indoors Is because if it was ever to leak on the exhaust side of the fan it would actually pump dangerous levels of radiation into the home. Let's say a radon test came in at 6. The EPA recommends 3.9 or below. That six is what made it into the basement into the home through the concrete. Whats underneath the slab could be five hundred or thousand. That's what would be pumped out on the exhaust side of the fan. It is for public safety to keep fans outdoors or an attic spaces.
Radon Specialists of WI thanks for the answer. Good to know
You seems to cut the 45 degree over the fan instead of using a straight pipe with some room. That is very bad for 2 reasons: 1 - there is still an angle when you enter into the pump which could cause leak easier and 2 - it will makes serving the pump a real hard job, where you will have to change some pipes. The junction box should be 18 inches above ground or higher depending if you have snow. The PVC should be schedule 40, I think you don't mention it. Also, some peoples seems to tell it is better to add a wire rack at the output.
I have a ABS 4" pipe next to my foundation well below grade can I use it for radon
I would have to see a pic of it. Remember the fan has to be an unlivable space. So, that is outside the home or up in an attic space. And then the pipe has to be about a foot above the roof. Do you know what that ABS pipe is connected to?
@@RadonSpecialistsofWINeenah Not connected at all it was put in and never used its below the slab right next to it. the fan would be outside just like the pipe
@@RadonSpecialistsofWINeenah not sure if i was clear. the abs is located outside the house next to the cement wall of the basement.
Maybe connect a fan and some piping temporarily plug into an extension cord or something to run the fan. Let it run for a couple days and then do a post test in the basement to see if it worked. If the pipe / suction point isn't configured properly under the slab it may not work.
@@RadonSpecialistsofWINeenah great thank you
At 6:47 you state that "you cannot plug a fan into an outlet with a cord because it is against Code." However, the National Electrical Code (2014) Article 430.109(F) allows for "Cord and Plug connected motors" when the motor is 1/3hp or less. So your statement appears to be incorrect as that fan looks pretty small. Would be interested in a response.
The fan can not be plugged into an outlet on the outside of a home. The reason is UV light will degrade the chord. It is fine to do so in an attic space. If, you can find a UV rated cord to use outside with a weather proof cover it is allowed on the outside. I have tried to find such a cord but have had no luck to date. I have heard they exist, just haven't found one yet. Even if I did, why go through the trouble of wiring in a new weather prof outlet, when installing a switch in a weather proof box and conduit is just as easy. A UV rated cord would only help if there was a weather proof outlet already installed at the proper location.
Thanks for the quick reply. Just catches my attention when I hear a statement that applies to a specific situation put forth as applicable in general, or at least that's what the implication was in the video. I agree that the switch approach shown in your display is superior if no outlet and/or the UV cord is available.
Section 9.3.3 of the radon mitigation standard specifically states that plug disconnects are not allowed in an outdoor environment. By the way, I love your display! I wish there was a way to make a light weight modular version for teaching classes.
Great video, illustrates really clearly how the system should be done! We've featured it on our radon blog - Radonview, in a post about DIY mitigation.
We at Corentium are making digital radon detectors (our detector for home owners is a bestseller), check us out to get yours! or visit our blog to read more about radon
Normally, the best place to install the suction point is near the interior footing. Every home is different, but that is the rule of thumb.
The system should be near a drain tile if possible, but does not need to be inserted into it. A small hole could be drilled in top of it also. This tile is not to be confused with a plumbing drain. They are two separate systems and cannot be connected.
Why are you assuming we have a garage?
Not assuming you have a garage. Stating that if you do have one, that would be the best option if there was a viable way to Route it that way and you had gravel and or drain tile under your basement slab.
Ruff
it could save your house, and/or life. lol
Not your house, just your life or a family members life. But it can help reduce moisture in your home also.
18 people don't understand Fire Walls and how they can get de-rated
Not sure what you are asking.
@@RadonSpecialistsofWINeenah I'm roasting the 18 people who disliked the vid. Great job and great explanation!
Oh, yeah. Unbelievable. Thank you.
Get this: My new system looks very professional. But I discovered that my fan is upside down!! I was suspicious because a crack in the floor next to the radon pipe is blowing air into the house! It should be sucking down into the dirt. (actually should have been sealed) Next, my manometer says 4.8. (seemed high) Next, I climbed on the roof. My vent pipe is sucking down!! Finally, my radon level went from 4.6 to 6.8! And that's away from the room with the cracked floor. I'm currently testing over that crack. In about 40 more hours I'll get a reading. I bet its sky high over that crack. The installer needs to fix this. Hasn't called me back yet.
Yes, get that fan right side up and caulk the crack. Hopefully that will do the job.
@@RadonSpecialistsofWINeenah The owner of the company fixed the problems. He said he had hired some really dumb employees. Although one had worked for him a whole year. How he installed it upside down and didn't notice the airflow either.....we will never know.
please call our office tomorrow as there is a lot of information to go over, and our we can set up a free on site estimate.
866-569-7236. Thank you.
Our Radon meter by Airthings is currently showing 46 pci/l upstairs. Have slab concrete floor in basement with a sump pump at each end. Levels this high may be impossible to correct?