If your foundation footers were done with 'form-a-drain' you can pre-plumb your home for radon mitigation from the get-go. The entire 'form-a-drain' system remains in place after pouring & building and creates both a path for weeping around the entire foundation plus a vent for drawing out any radon should you install a mitigation fan system. If you do this - make sure to just go ahead and run the entire vent pipe up and above the roof per code. A fan kit costs under $300 and is EASILY installed at any time if you do the prep-work. Bonus: no holes drilled in floor for a post-build install. We did this here & just ran the pipe up into the utility room where it can be accessed at any time.
I live in Manitoba and my mother recently passed away form lung cancer. My father tested my child hood home for radon and the levels are 3500! This is terrifying😮
My question is why are these houses not being tested prior to being sold by contractors and why are Randon mitigation exhaust fans not mandatory for all home builders to have to install before selling the home? Why is this all left up to the homeowner after the sale. With all these codes you would think this would be one of them added.
Radon testing always comes up if you read your purchase contracts or do a lick of research into buying a home. If you decide not to even ask what it's for, is it anyone else's fault that the buyer suffers for it?
In my installs I include a cover that is painted to match the house siding, also I run downspout to match the other rain downspouts instead of the white pvc pipe. Sure it costs me a little bit and extra time but my installs are at least a little more aesthetically pleasing.
My house tested at over 3000, its very bad out here in Halifax. Nova Scotia has 20% more lung cancer then the rest of Canada and radon could be the reason why.
$250 charge for inspection. Get a kit For 5-10$ + shipping to the lab. I loved how they make it sound difficult to install. 300 in parts and labor 800 max, 1100 total. industry is charging 1500-2000 $
Crazy that the radon system you are showing in the video have the fan installed inside in the livable area... All the codes and regulations I am checking are very explicit that you should have the fan either outside of the house or in the attic but never below the house or inside of the livable area, in case the connections around the fan start leaking all the radon being blown by the fan into the house.
@@longshot726 I mentioned the codes as a reference but it is common sense and they are a good explanation of why is so absurd to have the fan inside of the livable area in case the fan start leaking and pushing a huge amount of radon inside of the house at once.
2 issues. 1. If there is a leak on the pressure side of the fan, it’s inside the home,...not code legal in the US, since it dumps the bad air back into the living space. 2. Should be vented above the roof line, again, US code. Maybe Canada code is different?
I was actually coming here to read for this very thing and question it. I understand they're in CA. But seems like they'rd be some type of uniform remediation rules. I took notice the indoor fan and dumping of gases right outside home not above roofline as here in the US.
@@johnrichjr.415 minisplit and A/C unis do no pull any air in the house, they move heat from one area to another with compressed gasses, there is no exchange of air into the dwelling.
$250 charge for inspection. Get a kit For 5-10$ + shipping to the lab. I loved how they make it sound difficult to install. About 300 in parts and labor should top out about 800 max, 1100 total. For some reason the industry is charging 1500-2000 $
Just try telling your landlord that your residence has high radon levels after you test! Your only recourse will be court action or moving. To landlords. ..radon is a 4 letter word! Landlords do not want to spend the $$$$ to remediate radon. Testing needs to be mandatory.
Gotta remember couple things; you walk around absorbing limited amounts everyday, no matter where you are; geographically, some areas have more than others; those who spend more time living/working within a cavity will be affected more than those who don't, whatever effect that has, noticeable or not; humanity has been living with this and other hazards since long before being a wet dream; oh, and never forget, there's only one thing you were born to do, we all walk through that door one day so why worry about the little things.... just remember to look both ways before crossing intersections~! Just an opinion from a two time Cancer survivor. And if I can remember something from Monty Python, "Always look on the bright side of life..." Cheers!
convert Bq/m# to pCi/L one pCi/L = 37 Mq/m3 four pCI/L = 148 Bq/m3 What are the units of measuring radon levels? The concentration of radon in the air is measured in units of picocuries per litre (pCi/L) or becquerels per cubic meter (Bq/m3). One Bq corresponds to one disintegration per second. One pCi/L is equivalent to 37 Bq/m3
The proximity of the radon vent to the AC is not an issue. The AC unit does not intake air in any way, it is used simply for the cooling process of the refrigerant. So there's no risk of recirculating the radon into the HVAC system of the house via the AC unit. Good thinking though...Never hurts to be sure everything is safe!
no AC is perfectly sealed in window - so, why seal tightly in basement and discharge radon to air conditioner window (to right in video) - defies logic
Correct me if I’m wrong… but I think the fan being mounted inside may have something to do with temperature differences here in Canada. I’ve have doubts of a radon fan lasting with -40c to +40c being a thing here in Manitoba.
The only code enforcement I would pursue would be to require new construction to properly seal basement walls & floors against moisture and radon since such products are readily available. Rather than ventilating the exterior of the slab 24/7 with a 350watt blower one could periodically ventilate the interior living space with an energy recovery ventilator.
I have a couple of questions as someone who's recently into Energy efficient buildings and learning of radiological pollutants like radon. 1) Shouldn't you be wearing proper PPE for the drilling to the soil 2) If all radon is drawn out of all buildings to the exterior, does that not make the general air more radon dense thereby causing more carcinogenic risks?
my house used to has a high concentration of radon after i installed this sistem it went down. so now im happy because my family is safe of radon. by the way it is discharged by the edge of the roof..
Fan should not be in a house... it should be outside or in an attic. Discharge should be at edge of roof. Kids playing outside by exhaust would be breathing a HIGH concentrated level of radon. Tee below fan is installed backwards. $250 for test is outrageous.
The tee installation is actually correct, this is the same setup as a plumbing vent. I too wondered if the termination should be higher though, makes sense it would be concentrate and more dangerous right there.
Mike S Even though, as a Canadian, I agree with the chimney standards that are used in the United States, the fan being outside in Canadian climates seems stupid. Also, putting a switch between the circuit breaker and the fan is a very bad idea as it is meant to run 24/7. If someone turns the switch off, that defeats the purpose of the device.
Great video. I just ordered a Bluetooth enabled short/long term radon detector. I noticed every other home in the neighborhood I just moved into in the Virginia Appalachian mountains has an active radon mitigation system whereas mine does not. It will be interesting to see the results.
so this installation was done on an existing home so retrofitting is what we saw there, but on a new construction, instead of venting at ground level could it be vented through the roof like a plumbing vent and have the fan/blower in the attic for a quiet operation/installation
Tsang's also most houses are required to be built with at least a passive system already in place. So if a new home does test High all the homeowner has to do is put in the fan and it's taken care of. It adds about $200 on the cost of building a new home. It's a lot easier to just do it when it's being built that way you don't see it or have the expense after the fact. And when you go to sell your home it's one less thing to deal with.
At minute 6:50 - what is going on? It looks like radon discharge pipe is positioned in area with air conditioner INTAKE to right in window and multi split system to left. Wouldn't this defeat the entire purpose?
Yes, definitely different than in the US. I do believe the 3 pipes to the right are, gas-fired water heater exhaust, and intake/exhaust for gas furnace. And the A/C compressor and condenser coil outside shouldn't be effected by the radon.... the air in the central A/C never goes inside from here. But, exhausting the radon near/below windows is not too good.
We recently moved into our 'new to us' home. The radon system is working well but our inspector noticed that the installers never sealed around any of the pvc pipe openings. Is this something we should do or should we call the number and have them come out and finish the job? If we are to do this what exact caulk/sealant should we use? Thanks
That means the material under the slab does not allow for air to move freely. Purchase a continuous radon monitor to monitor the system's effectiveness.
There are several concerns with this installation. Specifically the "T" below the inline fan is creating a low spot that will allow condensate to develop compromising the SSD system's efficiency.
There are several things besides that that are wrong with the system, the fan is in the living space, the crawl space should be covered with heavy plastic and sealed around the edges, it is exhausted right outside the house, when it should be vented above the highest sauffit on the house.
You guys do realize this is Canada right? I'm guessing the protocols are different there. Even in the US the radon mitigation protocols differ from state to state.
Help with question: I think the discharge pipe should be terminate at the peek of the roof not at the eve of the roof When radon gas is discharged via a radon mitigation system above the roof, the radon gas concentration falls off dramatically with distance at 3-4 feet from the discharge point.THE CONCERN I HAVE IS THAT MY BED IS ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE DISCHARGE POINT. The house was built in 1928 my bedroom is in the peak of 2nd floor. I got a partial reader that reads PM2.5 levels and have recorded as bad as 66pm and 88pm which anything over 55pm is Unhealthy.
Studied Radiobiology and Radon effects during my residency training. Was taught that yes it does raise risk of lung cancer a small percentage..IF you live for 70 years in the basement AND spent 70% of that time indoors. Not a big Radon worrier. Go obsess about something else. Told my home buyer I am not paying for mitigation.
***** . No. You are incorrect. As a 32 year veteran physics teacher who followed the original studies, I can confidently say, we are being duped. The original studies were of coal miners. Workers who all smoked. Workers who spent 10, 12 or even 14 hours a day thousands of feet below the surface. There is no proven science of radon and cancer my friend. There is NO proven link between cancer and radon. Period.
Brad Weber Yep. This is what I have been reading as well. For anyone looking at getting mitigation, look at that unit. It's enormous. The pipe is 4.5" in diameter with a 4" hole, IIRC. The fan runs 24/7/365. It is noisy. If you have it near your living space you'll never get rid of the sound. And if you don't put the fan in the basement, you have a monstrosity on the exterior of your home. The pipe has to have bends in it as well and it has to push the air away from the home, so the stack of pipe on the outside, even with a fan inside your home is going to be an eye sore. And you will hear the sound of rushing air outside as well. My advice is consider how much time you're spending in your home. If you are retired, on disability, etc. and are home practically all day and rarely go anywhere...and your levels are high...worth consideration. Otherwise, think long and hard about your decision to get one of these. And at least do what they suggest here; test for 90 days or more. In Canada, they test for 3 months, 6 months or even a year is recommended because levels of radon fluctuate so much over time. And even then, it is questionable whether the tools get accurate readings. But at least you're not taking one reading on the day of a home inspection and installing a $1000 piece of equipment you don't need that is noisy and will deter future home buyers from considering your home.
Ashley, did you ever measure the radon/radiation in common foods? A potato has 500 picocuries of radiation. A banana typically has 500. There are countless items in our environment that have these tiny amounts of radiation but because they discovered radon in the air that comes from the decay of uranium, everyone seems to hit the panic button. And to show how inconsistent the EPA is, the EPA says to take action above 4 pc but if you are in a workplace they say it's ok to be exposed to 100 picocuries. Their numbers are politically motivated and not based on science. Unbiased science would show the other items in the typical environment and show a comparison. The EPA reports don't do that!
Brad Weber, I'm sure glad you don't ever have to do any diagnosis on me and my family. Because of your obvious lack of knowledge and understanding of the scientific community. Please tell me you work at a free clinic dealing with stds.
3 things wrong! You always want that radon fan outside the house in case of failure it will exhaust outside! 2nd piping from crawlspace your piping goes down then back up again allowing for moisture build up! 3rd your outside pipe vent has to be above any roof line to vent!
Doesn't the fan suppose to be outside or in the attic and there not supposed to be to many bends in the PVC piping?. Also, if it sucks air from underneath, how is the radon that's in the actual space moved out?🤔
@@tufaznail You know that central air conditioning systems work differently than window or portable units right? The condenser unit outside has nothing to do with indoor air going through the air handler (furnace).
I have a sump in my furnace room. I would rather drill a 4 inch hole in the floor, closer to the wall, for my mitigation system. Is this ok with a sump 3 feet away?
So what would you do different on a home with a basement where the builder poured the slab directly on the dirt with just a vapor barrier? Since there is no aggregat under the slab, how would it pull air from beneath the entire house?
91 days is something you do if you own th3 house lol a home inspection is for 3 days or so.. we had our home tested that were buying.. 3 day average was 5.6. But it got to a high of 12... when we get in the house were definitely going to get a system put in
What about in new construction, can't they test the levels within the gravel used like pyrite?
7 років тому+7
I just read the EPA information on radon and this installation fails just about everything and so much for hiring someone who knows what they are doing...
Fay Ryuujin yeah but this install was done in Canada where it's not regulated as it is here in the US. There are multiple serious problems with this install, the crawl space should have been covered with heavy plastic and sealed around the edges, the fan is in the basement which cannot be in any living area in a home either the Attic or mounted on the outside of the home are the only options. And vented above the highest sauffit by 18 inches.
Just finished my measurement and mitigation exam, and notice the same things. I always thought Mike Holmes was very thorough. But your right. There are at least three issues with this installation, in just the 5 minutes we watched.
I think the discharge pipe should be terminate at the peek of the roof not at the eve of the roof because When radon gas is discharged via a radon mitigation system above the roof, the radon gas concentration falls off dramatically with distance at 3-4 feet from the discharge point.THE CONCERN I HAVE IS THAT MY BED IS ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE DISCHARGE POINT. The house was built in 1928 my bedroom is in the peak of 2nd floor. I got a partial reader that reads PM2.5 levels and have recorded as bad as 66pm and 88pm which anything over 55pm is Unhealthy
Silly question but why are home builders not FORCED to install a vent system in the slab before houses are built? On older homes could you not tunnel under the slab on the exterior and just vent it outside all together? last one, if this comes up from the ground, are we not basically living on top of it all day anyway, I mean sitting in my backyard on lawn would I not be having Radon pass thru me?
Wasn't mike that did the install but you're 100% right - no primer. I'm betting they're not worried about leaks because it's not liquid that would show up before they got the check cashed.
I know I have radon. And, I have a mitigation system but it doesn't work. I've been trying for seven years to get someone to come fix it. Nobody will come. What do I do?
House we want to buy has a level of 28 pci/L Seller doesn't care and won't pay to have a mitigation system installed. Wondering if even a system could guarantee that level be brought down below 4 anyways..
No one commented on the $250 charge for testing. They forgot to mention you can get a test kit. For 5-10 dollars plus shipping to the lab. I loved how they make it sound difficult to install. About 300 in parts and labor should top out about 800 max, 1100 total. For some reason the industry is charging 1500-2000 dollars.
Interesting that the entire system is installed within the living space (basement). Most Radon certified professionals recommend the fan and all plumbing after the fan be located outside or in the attic.
My thoughts as well. If the coupler comes loose and leaks then you are now introducing radon at a higher than normal rate without the system. Plus they vented low. I know this is in Canada and in the states regulations are all different per state but I thought going above the eaves was important to not reintroduce it into the house.
We allow a furnace inside the basement why not a radon fan. Plus I’ve seen fans get destroyed by the elements from outside, the cold, bugs, dust, rain, etc
My pipe exits the roof and we have to keep repairing leaks. Now we have to repair a soft spot on the roof. How do we arrange to have this done on our home?
$250 is high for radon testing imo. If not part of a real-estate transaction, a residential continuous monitor will be alot cheaper. No t-fitting in the below slab gravel? Radon mitigation installation standards require that the fan be located outside the living space of the home. If a leak was to occur above the fan, the home could have a really high radon level. If too cold outside, the fan should be installed in the attic, no? Maybe they do things differently in Canada. Do it right Mike Holmes.
Just tested my In-laws house and 24+ pci/L upstairs and 30 downstairs. We are staying here for a week and I want to leave. They don't want to do anything about it. Jeez
@@scotta9114 - I was reading there is no exact science behind it. Some people could be exposed to it 30 years and be ok and some people could be exposed to it 1 year and develop an extremely aggressive lung cancer and die. So maybe you will be the first one to die from it. Maybe you will be their martyr . Good luck sir.
@@scotta9114 one week is not going to hurt you. Radon is a carcinogen and requires prolonged exposure to do any real harm. Think of it like smoking cigarettes. Obviously they aren't good for you, but smoking for a week isn't going to cause someone to get lung cancer. However, your sister should definitely get a mitigation system, bc they are being exposed for long periods. Lung cancer is nothing to mess with.
I met a home owner with severe radon in his home he was 91 years old and in absolutely great shape. He was in such great shape that I was thinking of bottling up his radon and selling it.
ohio guy Who wants to live to a hundred? I don't, if that means giving up more freedom and not living a full life. Screw that, tea sipping snoozers can go run into their bunker and die of fear.
Correct me if I'm wrong but I am pretty sure the vent from the mitigation system needs to be exhausted above the roof eave, atleast 10ft off the ground and minimum of 10ft from any opening in the house(window/doors). Looks like this system ignores all three requirements.
you are correct the exhaust or vent needs to be a minimun 10 feet from any window or exhaust above roof level. also the Radon fan must be installed outside, but it can also be installed in an attic and a garage as long as there is no living level above the garage
If I am not mistaken, this install was done in Canada where the rules are different. Health Canada has set different guidelines, such as fans inside the envelope and venting lower than the roofline.
Stefanie Coleman-Dias Yupp, we also have a better electrical system and better nuclear power plants, but this installation confuses me where the radon goes out the side instead of above. Then again a lot of high efficiency furnaces vent out of the side of the house instead of the top too.
By going out the top I assume you mean going through the roof? My best guess re the install in this video would be: Because this install was completed in an existing house, it is likely there was no roughin pipe installed through the roof. Therefore instead of having to affect the main floor/second floor of house installing a chase/ducting etc, going out the rim/belt of the house would be the simplest and least intrusive install. This is considered acceptable in the Canadian training courses. There are rules for where the venting is located so that you dont have it near a fresh air intake, gas meters, etc.
I thought I was safe in PEI since it's all sandstone here no rock. I bought a meter and it's showing 120Bq/m3 but I've lived in and breathed it at that level for years. I'd prefer 0 not 200 or even 100.
thought about doing it, did some research some say its bad and some say its a scare tactic, who do you believe ? if it's such a danger why isnt a mitigation system it required by law ?
The proper termination for the vent is above the highest eve of the building. This is so the gasses cannot be reintroduced into the building by an open window,bath fan etc should a negative pressure exist inside the home..
I've owned one for 6 months or so. I don't belong to their company or anything. I'm very impressed. I left it in basement for months. My reading is 6 times the safe limit . I brought it upstairs. The reading dropped but picked up when I ran fans all day. Took it out to the garage for a day near an open window. The day rate dropped to 0.2. Today, I put it just next to my sump pit hole cracking it open. The reading came back over 50 times recommended safe limit!. So, I know the unit is responsive to real conditions. Moving it around allows you to figure out what is going on and where. Don'e use a simple kit. I can see know that would be somewhat worthless. I highly recommend Airthings..somewhat expensive...but if you are serious or worried - definitely
@@danmichael9629 Thanks for the reply my brother in law just bought one two weeks ago and it seems to do a good job its vary accurate with the temperature and humidity so i assume its accurate with radon. I ordered the wave plus in July and it should finally be here by tomorrow so i look vary forward to setting it up and getting readings.
@@PatrickWagz yes Paul i got my wave plus about two years ago. For the first year probably the app wasn't vary good kept on losing readings and not working vary good. Airthings has fixed all the bugs it seems with the app and now I'm getting all the proper readings so i am happy with it. I notice that in the winter the radon levels go up and when we have warm winter days it seems to go up even more.
@@ryangsxr1300 Ok, thank you for the reply. Can I ask what part of the world in are in? And, what types of reading levels you typically get? Are the readings high enough to install a Radon mitigation system? Thanks again.
All good but no house you think buying is going to wait for 90 days and testing 48hrs probably wont show or will show not accurate % or maybe it will who knows.
In canada we have cold temperatures so we can't do that. In Manitoba we had our system all installed in our basement and vented right out of a normal dryer vent on the side of the house so it looks no different from a normal vent which is cool
@@justayoutuber1906 that's the exhaust of the WH not make up/combustion air. There's no risk of it to the AC either as it works via compressed gasses and does not move air from one area to another.
The Architect that can design a raised foundation with no pocket for moisture to fill a cavity. The basement that gets wet and wicks up moisture into the house is not like by the building inspector. No chance for moisture in the house with mold growing on walls. Just as a second story and stairs may not be allowed or the building inspector does not issue a Certificate of Occupancy. How about an Architect designing the ideal house that the building inspector loves for any particular State & County to approve.
Just saw this video for the first time. Good information. But I thought the discharge had to be up above the ridge line on the roof, not just blowing out at ground level
You are correct - it does have to discharge above the roof line but not as high as the ridge line. It can discharge 6" above an eve line per AARST national specs.
I had no idea the rules were so different between the two countries. Sure would be easier to install fans inside and discharge at ground level if we were allowed. Cheers.
If your foundation footers were done with 'form-a-drain' you can pre-plumb your home for radon mitigation from the get-go. The entire 'form-a-drain' system remains in place after pouring & building and creates both a path for weeping around the entire foundation plus a vent for drawing out any radon should you install a mitigation fan system. If you do this - make sure to just go ahead and run the entire vent pipe up and above the roof per code. A fan kit costs under $300 and is EASILY installed at any time if you do the prep-work. Bonus: no holes drilled in floor for a post-build install. We did this here & just ran the pipe up into the utility room where it can be accessed at any time.
I live in Manitoba and my mother recently passed away form lung cancer. My father tested my child hood home for radon and the levels are 3500! This is terrifying😮
So that was the cause of her death.
First time I seen Mike not tear down most of a house.
LOL !!
My question is why are these houses not being tested prior to being sold by contractors and why are Randon mitigation exhaust fans not mandatory for all home builders to have to install before selling the home? Why is this all left up to the homeowner after the sale. With all these codes you would think this would be one of them added.
Radon testing always comes up if you read your purchase contracts or do a lick of research into buying a home. If you decide not to even ask what it's for, is it anyone else's fault that the buyer suffers for it?
Because it's not necessary.
In my installs I include a cover that is painted to match the house siding, also I run downspout to match the other rain downspouts instead of the white pvc pipe. Sure it costs me a little bit and extra time but my installs are at least a little more aesthetically pleasing.
In some area's we cannot use the leaky down spout pipe! Must be schedule 40 all the way 1 foot above the roof line
isn't it supposed to go up to above the roof?
Mike Homes is understanding person im glad he has teamed up with his family when i buy a home i wish Homes family could inspect it love your show.
My house tested at over 3000, its very bad out here in Halifax. Nova Scotia has 20% more lung cancer then the rest of Canada and radon could be the reason why.
$250 charge for inspection. Get a kit For 5-10$ + shipping to the lab. I loved how they make it sound difficult to install. 300 in parts and labor 800 max, 1100 total. industry is charging 1500-2000 $
You should easily be able to accomplish this for under $500, and that's if you buy into this whole thing.
You're sucking the money out of your wallet at the same time, surprised there's no monthly subscription fee.
Crazy that the radon system you are showing in the video have the fan installed inside in the livable area... All the codes and regulations I am checking are very explicit that you should have the fan either outside of the house or in the attic but never below the house or inside of the livable area, in case the connections around the fan start leaking all the radon being blown by the fan into the house.
Canadian codes are not US codes. They allow and normally do install the blower in the basement.
@@longshot726 I mentioned the codes as a reference but it is common sense and they are a good explanation of why is so absurd to have the fan inside of the livable area in case the fan start leaking and pushing a huge amount of radon inside of the house at once.
2 issues.
1. If there is a leak on the pressure side of the fan, it’s inside the home,...not code legal in the US, since it dumps the bad air back into the living space.
2. Should be vented above the roof line, again, US code. Maybe Canada code is different?
I was actually coming here to read for this very thing and question it. I understand they're in CA. But seems like they'rd be some type of uniform remediation rules. I took notice the indoor fan and dumping of gases right outside home not above roofline as here in the US.
They dumped the bad air right between the minisplit and the a/c unit , aren't those sucking up the dirty air?
@@johnrichjr.415 minisplit and A/C unis do no pull any air in the house, they move heat from one area to another with compressed gasses, there is no exchange of air into the dwelling.
$250 charge for inspection. Get a kit For 5-10$ + shipping to the lab. I loved how they make it sound difficult to install. About 300 in parts and labor should top out about 800 max, 1100 total. For some reason the industry is charging 1500-2000 $
Around $30 on Amazon for a homeowner test kit with lab results. Follow the instructions for test thoroughly.
Just try telling your landlord that your residence has high radon levels after you test! Your only recourse will be court action or moving. To landlords. ..radon is a 4 letter word! Landlords do not want to spend the $$$$ to remediate radon. Testing needs to be mandatory.
Thank you very much they Never talk about That in Québec ! A good friend passed away at 64 years cancer poumon and he never smoke !!!
Gotta remember couple things; you walk around absorbing limited amounts everyday, no matter where you are; geographically, some areas have more than others; those who spend more time living/working within a cavity will be affected more than those who don't, whatever effect that has, noticeable or not; humanity has been living with this and other hazards since long before being a wet dream; oh, and never forget, there's only one thing you were born to do, we all walk through that door one day so why worry about the little things.... just remember to look both ways before crossing intersections~! Just an opinion from a two time Cancer survivor. And if I can remember something from Monty Python, "Always look on the bright side of life..." Cheers!
convert Bq/m# to pCi/L one pCi/L = 37 Mq/m3 four pCI/L = 148 Bq/m3
What are the units of measuring radon levels? The concentration of radon in the air is measured in units of picocuries per litre (pCi/L) or becquerels per cubic meter (Bq/m3). One Bq corresponds to one disintegration per second. One pCi/L is equivalent to 37 Bq/m3
$250 for a radon test? That’s a third of the price of a full system! You got ‘em good, boy!
250 for the test, $165 for the fan and pvc install...$2000 knowing where to install it lol ha..great deal 🤔seems a tid bit 🐟'y
The proximity of the radon vent to the AC is not an issue. The AC unit does not intake air in any way, it is used simply for the cooling process of the refrigerant. So there's no risk of recirculating the radon into the HVAC system of the house via the AC unit. Good thinking though...Never hurts to be sure everything is safe!
Bobby Ross in the US it needs to be vented above your highest soffit, this is preventing reentry into the home.
no AC is perfectly sealed in window - so, why seal tightly in basement and discharge radon to air conditioner window (to right in video) - defies logic
Correct me if I’m wrong… but I think the fan being mounted inside may have something to do with temperature differences here in Canada. I’ve have doubts of a radon fan lasting with -40c to +40c being a thing here in Manitoba.
The only code enforcement I would pursue would be to require new construction to properly seal basement walls & floors against moisture and radon since such products are readily available. Rather than ventilating the exterior of the slab 24/7 with a 350watt blower one could periodically ventilate the interior living space with an energy recovery ventilator.
I have a couple of questions as someone who's recently into Energy efficient buildings and learning of radiological pollutants like radon.
1) Shouldn't you be wearing proper PPE for the drilling to the soil
2) If all radon is drawn out of all buildings to the exterior, does that not make the general air more radon dense thereby causing more carcinogenic risks?
my house used to has a high concentration of radon after i installed this sistem it went down. so now im happy because my family is safe of radon. by the way it is discharged by the edge of the roof..
Fan should not be in a house... it should be outside or in an attic. Discharge should be at edge of roof. Kids playing outside by exhaust would be breathing a HIGH concentrated level of radon. Tee below fan is installed backwards. $250 for test is outrageous.
Nice.
The tee installation is actually correct, this is the same setup as a plumbing vent. I too wondered if the termination should be higher though, makes sense it would be concentrate and more dangerous right there.
The fan location IS NOT OK!!! Go to EPA.gov/radon.
and they made a 'U' with the crawl space pipe.
Mike S Even though, as a Canadian, I agree with the chimney standards that are used in the United States, the fan being outside in Canadian climates seems stupid. Also, putting a switch between the circuit breaker and the fan is a very bad idea as it is meant to run 24/7. If someone turns the switch off, that defeats the purpose of the device.
Great video. I just ordered a Bluetooth enabled short/long term radon detector. I noticed every other home in the neighborhood I just moved into in the Virginia Appalachian mountains has an active radon mitigation system whereas mine does not. It will be interesting to see the results.
so this installation was done on an existing home so retrofitting is what we saw there, but on a new construction, instead of venting at ground level could it be vented through the roof like a plumbing vent and have the fan/blower in the attic for a quiet operation/installation
kurlis it can be vented thru the roof. On ask this old house this is what they did, they had the fan up in the attic
ab30494
is the video on youtube?
Gotta love the sales pitch!
The big problem is folks assuming that the air in your house is the only, or even major, source of radon in your life.
Well, it sure is a constant. What else are some sources?
@@djt7387 water from a well
if the gas is dangerous, why government set up rules that every new house need to pass the radon gas test in order to sell the house?
Tsang's also most houses are required to be built with at least a passive system already in place. So if a new home does test High all the homeowner has to do is put in the fan and it's taken care of. It adds about $200 on the cost of building a new home. It's a lot easier to just do it when it's being built that way you don't see it or have the expense after the fact. And when you go to sell your home it's one less thing to deal with.
Tsang, the EPA has set up standards, which at least some states and municipalities have used for housing regulations and building codes.
Because contractor organizations don't want to pass on the additional expense. Lobbyists....
At minute 6:50 - what is going on? It looks like radon discharge pipe is positioned in area with air conditioner INTAKE to right in window and multi split system to left. Wouldn't this defeat the entire purpose?
Yes, definitely different than in the US. I do believe the 3 pipes to the right are, gas-fired water heater exhaust, and intake/exhaust for gas furnace. And the A/C compressor and condenser coil outside shouldn't be effected by the radon.... the air in the central A/C never goes inside from here. But, exhausting the radon near/below windows is not too good.
@@PatrickWagz In the US it MUST dischage above the roof
My question is-did they do another 91 day test for Radon?
Yea, for a 2nd fee of $250.00 Some people are too easy to steal from. Sad world.
@@gregbaugher333 Ya 91 days is way overkill. And $250 for a test is a ripoff. Many places do them for free now.
@@dcast777 or just buy an Airthings Wave for that much and you can continuously monitor.
Mike....What about an older home or one where gravel was not put down under the basement floor?
Contact a C-NRPP or NRPP professional bud
"stitching' is used to connect the concrete field
We recently moved into our 'new to us' home. The radon system is working well but our inspector noticed that the installers never sealed around any of the pvc pipe openings. Is this something we should do or should we call the number and have them come out and finish the job? If we are to do this what exact caulk/sealant should we use? Thanks
the only contractor I'd ever actually trust without crossing my fingers and hoping for the best
Also, no certification is needed in TN or AL or GA. Foundation repair companies do it everyday.
Is it normal for the manometer to read over 4"? We just had a system installed and that's the initial recorded reading.
That means the material under the slab does not allow for air to move freely. Purchase a continuous radon monitor to monitor the system's effectiveness.
it should be .5 "- 1.5"
There are several concerns with this installation. Specifically the "T" below the inline fan is creating a low spot that will allow condensate to develop compromising the SSD system's efficiency.
There are several things besides that that are wrong with the system, the fan is in the living space, the crawl space should be covered with heavy plastic and sealed around the edges, it is exhausted right outside the house, when it should be vented above the highest sauffit on the house.
Definitely not to epa guidelines
You guys do realize this is Canada right? I'm guessing the protocols are different there. Even in the US the radon mitigation protocols differ from state to state.
How do you paid attention that T is from the crawl space they connected it to one system instead of having multiple systems.
First I would like to state that I am not an expert, but it worries me that the exhaust is right next to what looks like an air con or a furnace
Help with question: I think the discharge pipe should be terminate at the peek of the roof not at the eve of the roof When radon gas is discharged via a radon mitigation system above the roof, the radon gas concentration falls off dramatically with distance at 3-4 feet from the discharge point.THE CONCERN I HAVE IS THAT MY BED IS ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE DISCHARGE POINT.
The house was built in 1928 my bedroom is in the peak of 2nd floor. I got a partial reader that reads PM2.5 levels and have recorded as bad as 66pm and 88pm which anything over 55pm is Unhealthy.
Studied Radiobiology and Radon effects during my residency training. Was taught that yes it does raise risk of lung cancer a small percentage..IF you live for 70 years in the basement AND spent 70% of that time indoors. Not a big Radon worrier. Go obsess about something else. Told my home buyer I am not paying for mitigation.
***** . No. You are incorrect. As a 32 year veteran physics teacher who followed the original studies, I can confidently say, we are being duped. The original studies were of coal miners. Workers who all smoked. Workers who spent 10, 12 or even 14 hours a day thousands of feet below the surface. There is no proven science of radon and cancer my friend. There is NO proven link between cancer and radon. Period.
And how do you prove a case of lung cancer in a nonsmoker is Radon related? Just because what else could it be, I suppose? Good science.
Brad Weber Yep. This is what I have been reading as well. For anyone looking at getting mitigation, look at that unit. It's enormous. The pipe is 4.5" in diameter with a 4" hole, IIRC. The fan runs 24/7/365. It is noisy. If you have it near your living space you'll never get rid of the sound. And if you don't put the fan in the basement, you have a monstrosity on the exterior of your home. The pipe has to have bends in it as well and it has to push the air away from the home, so the stack of pipe on the outside, even with a fan inside your home is going to be an eye sore. And you will hear the sound of rushing air outside as well. My advice is consider how much time you're spending in your home. If you are retired, on disability, etc. and are home practically all day and rarely go anywhere...and your levels are high...worth consideration. Otherwise, think long and hard about your decision to get one of these. And at least do what they suggest here; test for 90 days or more. In Canada, they test for 3 months, 6 months or even a year is recommended because levels of radon fluctuate so much over time. And even then, it is questionable whether the tools get accurate readings. But at least you're not taking one reading on the day of a home inspection and installing a $1000 piece of equipment you don't need that is noisy and will deter future home buyers from considering your home.
Ashley, did you ever measure the radon/radiation in common foods? A potato has 500 picocuries of radiation. A banana typically has 500. There are countless items in our environment that have these tiny amounts of radiation but because they discovered radon in the air that comes from the decay of uranium, everyone seems to hit the panic button. And to show how inconsistent the EPA is, the EPA says to take action above 4 pc but if you are in a workplace they say it's ok to be exposed to 100 picocuries. Their numbers are politically motivated and not based on science. Unbiased science would show the other items in the typical environment and show a comparison. The EPA reports don't do that!
Brad Weber, I'm sure glad you don't ever have to do any diagnosis on me and my family. Because of your obvious lack of knowledge and understanding of the scientific community. Please tell me you work at a free clinic dealing with stds.
3 things wrong! You always want that radon fan outside the house in case of failure it will exhaust outside! 2nd piping from crawlspace your piping goes down then back up again allowing for moisture build up! 3rd your outside pipe vent has to be above any roof line to vent!
Doesn't the fan suppose to be outside or in the attic and there not supposed to be to many bends in the PVC piping?. Also, if it sucks air from underneath, how is the radon that's in the actual space moved out?🤔
Does anybody else see the problem with exhausting the gas by the AC units?
I had a customer in Nashville who had readings in 28-35 range!!
At 6:50 it shows the exhaust vent at kneecap height. I thought it was supposed to be above the eave?
Blowing right into the AC unit. LOL
@@tufaznail You know that central air conditioning systems work differently than window or portable units right? The condenser unit outside has nothing to do with indoor air going through the air handler (furnace).
flimflam the air in the ac doesn’t go in the house.... c’mon
7:22 Thanks for this info. I saw this device in our new home but didn't know what or how it works 👍🏽
So are construction codes being changed to include that all new homes include a radon protection system and if not, why not?
I have a sump in my furnace room. I would rather drill a 4 inch hole in the floor, closer to the wall, for my mitigation system. Is this ok with a sump 3 feet away?
I wonder if a sewer PVC pipe can be used instead of gas vent pipe. Radon is supposed to be non-flammable. It is much cheaper. Can anyone advice?
My thoughts as well
It most definitely can, it can also be run in ABS
How much energy does this use?
So what would you do different on a home with a basement where the builder poured the slab directly on the dirt with just a vapor barrier? Since there is no aggregat under the slab, how would it pull air from beneath the entire house?
add "stitching" throughout the basement slab
91 days is something you do if you own th3 house lol a home inspection is for 3 days or so.. we had our home tested that were buying.. 3 day average was 5.6. But it got to a high of 12... when we get in the house were definitely going to get a system put in
Wow, this is such an insightful post! Thank you for sharing this valuable information
with us.
What about in new construction, can't they test the levels within the gravel used like pyrite?
I just read the EPA information on radon and this installation fails just about everything and so much for hiring someone who knows what they are doing...
Fay Ryuujin yeah but this install was done in Canada where it's not regulated as it is here in the US. There are multiple serious problems with this install, the crawl space should have been covered with heavy plastic and sealed around the edges, the fan is in the basement which cannot be in any living area in a home either the Attic or mounted on the outside of the home are the only options. And vented above the highest sauffit by 18 inches.
Just finished my measurement and mitigation exam, and notice the same things. I always thought Mike Holmes was very thorough. But your right. There are at least three issues with this installation, in just the 5 minutes we watched.
@@timcorbett2359 CANADA. The EPA does not govern Radon mitigation systems in Canada.
I think the discharge pipe should be terminate at the peek of the roof not at the eve of the roof because When radon gas is discharged via a radon mitigation system above the roof, the radon gas concentration falls off dramatically with distance at 3-4 feet from the discharge point.THE CONCERN I HAVE IS THAT MY BED IS ON THE OTHER SIDE OF THE DISCHARGE POINT.
The house was built in 1928 my bedroom is in the peak of 2nd floor. I got a partial reader that reads PM2.5 levels and have recorded as bad as 66pm and 88pm which anything over 55pm is Unhealthy
Why you don’t put in the height of the roof? Why you don’t put condensation line? Let me know please
Silly question but why are home builders not FORCED to install a vent system in the slab before houses are built? On older homes could you not tunnel under the slab on the exterior and just vent it outside all together? last one, if this comes up from the ground, are we not basically living on top of it all day anyway, I mean sitting in my backyard on lawn would I not be having Radon pass thru me?
Saw Mike Holmes in person. He is a really nice guy.
Mike Holmes is cool with not using primer on pvc pipes?
Wasn't mike that did the install but you're 100% right - no primer. I'm betting they're not worried about leaks because it's not liquid that would show up before they got the check cashed.
one step pvc glue is a real thing and doesn't require primer
For real science with real data from the real world from a genuine scientist watch “The Myths of Radon”. No glittering generalities there.
I noticed the radon fan jnside the basement but here in ohio mine is outside.I wonder if that makes a difference?
Go through a vent!! And in Tennessee you have to run the exhaust pipe above the roof line.
I know I have radon. And, I have a mitigation system but it doesn't work. I've been trying for seven years to get someone to come fix it. Nobody will come. What do I do?
Where are you located? Or did you get the problem resolved?
start over, from scratch, lick your finacial wounds and trudge forward. Sorry
House we want to buy has a level of 28 pci/L
Seller doesn't care and won't pay to have a mitigation system installed. Wondering if even a system could guarantee that level be brought down below 4 anyways..
No one commented on the $250 charge for testing. They forgot to mention you can get a test kit. For 5-10 dollars plus shipping to the lab. I loved how they make it sound difficult to install. About 300 in parts and labor should top out about 800 max, 1100 total. For some reason the industry is charging 1500-2000 dollars.
How does radon get into the house?? Like how does radon get into your house like what products cause that. That issue isn't in Ireland
Loved the original show
Interesting that the entire system is installed within the living space (basement). Most Radon certified professionals recommend the fan and all plumbing after the fan be located outside or in the attic.
My thoughts as well. If the coupler comes loose and leaks then you are now introducing radon at a higher than normal rate without the system. Plus they vented low. I know this is in Canada and in the states regulations are all different per state but I thought going above the eaves was important to not reintroduce it into the house.
+slick 2501 Not true.
***** You made the claim back it up by stating the regulation. And when you make one up, I will send the link proving your wrong.
A worm ring wont just loosen up. And if you watched the video you would have seen they installed manometer to detect leaks/problems
We allow a furnace inside the basement why not a radon fan. Plus I’ve seen fans get destroyed by the elements from outside, the cold, bugs, dust, rain, etc
My pipe exits the roof and we have to keep repairing leaks. Now we have to repair a soft spot on the roof. How do we arrange to have this done on our home?
$250 is high for radon testing imo. If not part of a real-estate transaction, a residential continuous monitor will be alot cheaper. No t-fitting in the below slab gravel? Radon mitigation installation standards require that the fan be located outside the living space of the home. If a leak was to occur above the fan, the home could have a really high radon level. If too cold outside, the fan should be installed in the attic, no? Maybe they do things differently in Canada. Do it right Mike Holmes.
Just tested my In-laws house and 24+ pci/L upstairs and 30 downstairs. We are staying here for a week and I want to leave. They don't want to do anything about it. Jeez
Thats nuts. I just read 2.0 - 4.0 is where you should consider mitigation.
@@LucifersDeathSquad They think it's safe since no one has died living there 25 years.
@@scotta9114 - I was reading there is no exact science behind it. Some people could be exposed to it 30 years and be ok and some people could be exposed to it 1 year and develop an extremely aggressive lung cancer and die. So maybe you will be the first one to die from it. Maybe you will be their martyr . Good luck sir.
@@LucifersDeathSquad Glad we were just visiting. A week of dangerous air was enough.
@@scotta9114 one week is not going to hurt you. Radon is a carcinogen and requires prolonged exposure to do any real harm. Think of it like smoking cigarettes. Obviously they aren't good for you, but smoking for a week isn't going to cause someone to get lung cancer. However, your sister should definitely get a mitigation system, bc they are being exposed for long periods. Lung cancer is nothing to mess with.
I met a home owner with severe radon in his home he was 91 years old and in absolutely great shape. He was in such great shape that I was thinking of bottling up his radon and selling it.
You can see old people who still smoke too. Just because they beat the odds does not mean that other people might.
ohio guy Who wants to live to a hundred? I don't, if that means giving up more freedom and not living a full life. Screw that, tea sipping snoozers can go run into their bunker and die of fear.
you are ridiculous
BlingBling, If one can live to be 100 without cancer or other debilitating diseases (and I have known some centenarians who did) then why not?
Your a dumb ass
Correct me if I'm wrong but I am pretty sure the vent from the mitigation system needs to be exhausted above the roof eave, atleast 10ft off the ground and minimum of 10ft from any opening in the house(window/doors). Looks like this system ignores all three requirements.
you are correct the exhaust or vent needs to be a minimun 10 feet from any window or exhaust above roof level. also the Radon fan must be installed outside, but it can also be installed in an attic and a garage as long as there is no living level above the garage
If I am not mistaken, this install was done in Canada where the rules are different. Health Canada has set different guidelines, such as fans inside the envelope and venting lower than the roofline.
Stefanie Coleman-Dias Yupp, we also have a better electrical system and better nuclear power plants, but this installation confuses me where the radon goes out the side instead of above. Then again a lot of high efficiency furnaces vent out of the side of the house instead of the top too.
By going out the top I assume you mean going through the roof? My best guess re the install in this video would be: Because this install was completed in an existing house, it is likely there was no roughin pipe installed through the roof. Therefore instead of having to affect the main floor/second floor of house installing a chase/ducting etc, going out the rim/belt of the house would be the simplest and least intrusive install. This is considered acceptable in the Canadian training courses. There are rules for where the venting is located so that you dont have it near a fresh air intake, gas meters, etc.
I thought I was safe in PEI since it's all sandstone here no rock. I bought a meter and it's showing 120Bq/m3 but I've lived in and breathed it at that level for years. I'd prefer 0 not 200 or even 100.
I live in Arizona. no radon but I do have moisture coming through the slab. Would this system work for drawing moisture from under the slab?
No
Hi does anybody knows if this Canry 222 digitaler radon monitor works ?
thought about doing it, did some research some say its bad and some say its a scare tactic, who do you believe ? if it's such a danger why isnt a mitigation system it required by law ?
Chuck woof New homes have it roughed in.. only add fans if the level is high.
Really smart system radon is a gas we have to prevent in Ireland to but in Scotland it's not even mentioned in the building code which is weird
How come some vendors say it needs to be exhausted above the roofline, is that a Code thing?
The proper termination for the vent is above the highest eve of the building. This is so the gasses cannot be reintroduced into the building by an open window,bath fan etc should a negative pressure exist inside the home..
I heard “actually”about 30 times.
Why would they exhaust the radon gas so close to the air conditioner unit outside of the house ?
It's called 'recycling'... d'uh! 🙂
It won't have any impact on the AC unit as they do not move air, but rather heat via compressed gas.
"Do you know what Radon is?"
"No"
"Good night"
How much did the FIX cost??!!
It was cheap. 20 feet of pipe a fan and a days labour. 78 thousand
Why is this not part of home building? Or is it?
Where can you get schedule 40 4inch white pvc? All I can find is the grey stuff, special order and it's a fortune??
any plumbing/hvac wholesaler will carrty it. It can be run in ABS as well.
Hey Mike do you think those airthings wave are a good idea?
I've owned one for 6 months or so. I don't belong to their company or anything. I'm very impressed. I left it in basement for months. My reading is 6 times the safe limit . I brought it upstairs. The reading dropped but picked up when I ran fans all day. Took it out to the garage for a day near an open window. The day rate dropped to 0.2. Today, I put it just next to my sump pit hole cracking it open. The reading came back over 50 times recommended safe limit!. So, I know the unit is responsive to real conditions. Moving it around allows you to figure out what is going on and where. Don'e use a simple kit. I can see know that would be somewhat worthless. I highly recommend Airthings..somewhat expensive...but if you are serious or worried - definitely
@@danmichael9629 Thanks for the reply my brother in law just bought one two weeks ago and it seems to do a good job its vary accurate with the temperature and humidity so i assume its accurate with radon. I ordered the wave plus in July and it should finally be here by tomorrow so i look vary forward to setting it up and getting readings.
@@ryangsxr1300 hi, any update on your Radon detector meter? thanks!
@@PatrickWagz yes Paul i got my wave plus about two years ago. For the first year probably the app wasn't vary good kept on losing readings and not working vary good. Airthings has fixed all the bugs it seems with the app and now I'm getting all the proper readings so i am happy with it. I notice that in the winter the radon levels go up and when we have warm winter days it seems to go up even more.
@@ryangsxr1300 Ok, thank you for the reply. Can I ask what part of the world in are in? And, what types of reading levels you typically get? Are the readings high enough to install a Radon mitigation system? Thanks again.
All good but no house you think buying is going to wait for 90 days and testing 48hrs probably wont show or will show not accurate % or maybe it will who knows.
Why is the inline fan inside the dwelling and the exhaust isn't a minimum of 12" above the roof line? Is there a window above the exhaust vent?
I guess in Canada, that's is the way they are able to do it??
In canada we have cold temperatures so we can't do that. In Manitoba we had our system all installed in our basement and vented right out of a normal dryer vent on the side of the house so it looks no different from a normal vent which is cool
what is the Radon level in the basement after the exhaust system was installed? (100Bq/m3 ? or less?)
They showed in writing near the end of the video that the final reading was 27 Bq/m3
I thought the vent line had to end above the roof line.
Why would the radon exhaust be so close to their air-conditioning unit? That seems scary to me?
Why?
And the water heater!!
@@justayoutuber1906 that's the exhaust of the WH not make up/combustion air. There's no risk of it to the AC either as it works via compressed gasses and does not move air from one area to another.
5:00 the amount of chemicals he's breathing in without a mask, im supposed to trust them?
The Architect that can design a raised foundation with no pocket for moisture to fill a cavity.
The basement that gets wet and wicks up moisture into the house is not like by the building inspector. No chance for moisture in the house with mold growing on walls.
Just as a second story and stairs may not be allowed or the building inspector does not issue a Certificate of Occupancy. How about an Architect designing the ideal house that the building inspector loves for any particular State & County to approve.
Really MIke, Radon fans should never be inside, if it breaks and no one goes down there it will increase the radon 200 times.
Not sure id want all that crap inside my house.. the systems in my area have it all outside vs the main pipe of course
Just saw this video for the first time. Good information. But I thought the discharge had to be up above the ridge line on the roof, not just blowing out at ground level
You are correct - it does have to discharge above the roof line but not as high as the ridge line. It can discharge 6" above an eve line per AARST national specs.
@@BrunoVassel this is in Canada, not the US.
I had no idea the rules were so different between the two countries. Sure would be easier to install fans inside and discharge at ground level if we were allowed. Cheers.
I thought radon had to eject above the roof line?
Yeah, that’s all we need is more code and “certified” costs. So tired of all the regulations. This could be done sooooo easily by a DIY guy/girl! Smh
Why is there so much uranium underneath these people's houses? How did this problem come to be?
Let's go radon
Is that Howie from deal or no deal ?
very good information on this system